For a long time, it was believed that rhododendrons grow and develop well without fertilizing - this opinion was held not only by amateur gardeners, but also by specialists.
The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, since it was believed that they were not tolerated. But as knowledge of plant mineral nutrition expanded, mineral fertilizers began to be used first in nurseries, and then for private plantings.
Nowadays, no one doubts that in order for rhododendron to grow well and develop properly, fertilizers are necessary. Moreover, recent research has shown that plants that are better supplied with nutrients are more resistant to low temperatures than those who were “starving.”
Define shortage nutrients not difficult. Most characteristic feature is a change in the color of the leaves - they lighten, fade, and the shoots acquire a yellowish-green tint. The annual growth of such plants is very small, the buds are poorly formed, and in August - September there is an active fall of old leaves.
Rules for applying mineral fertilizers for azaleas and rhododendrons
Since rhododendron loves acidic soil, for feeding it you should use, for the most part, physiological mineral fertilizers in liquid form - ammonium sulfate, calcium sulfate, potassium phosphate and nitric acid, superphosphate.
It is important to remember that rhododendron has a superficial root system, therefore, only those methods that exclude digging are suitable for applying fertilizers.
IN THE PHOTO: Fertilizer for azaleas and rhododendrons should not contain chlorine
The ratio of the amount of fertilizer to the amount of water should not exceed 1–2:1000 (or even lower if we are talking about a solution of potash fertilizers). Young plants should be fed with less concentrated fertilizers.
You need to start fertilizing at the beginning of spring (as soon as the snow melts), and stop in mid-July, otherwise warm weather and sufficient soil and air moisture can lead to secondary growth of shoots - in our climate this phenomenon is observed in some types of rhododendron in the late August - early September. The growth process can be stopped by treating plants with a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH2PO4 or a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K2S04.
Fertilizing with mixtures of acidic fertilizers: magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, ammonium sulfate and superphosphate in a ratio of 2:4:9:10 gives very good results. It is recommended to apply this fertilizer in several stages:
- early spring, during the period of bud swelling - at the rate of 100 g of mixture per 1 m 2;
- at the end of flowering - at the rate of 100 grams of mixture per 1 m 2;
- in early July - at the rate of 50 grams of mixture per 1 m 2.
If such a mixture is not available, any other complete mineral fertilizer will do, but in this case it will be necessary to add 30% ammonium sulfate.
IN THE PHOTO:
Some fertilizers increase the alkalinity of the soil, so it is necessary to regularly monitor its condition
For azaleas and rhododendrons there are general rule fertilizing: at the beginning of summer, fertilizers containing more , and from July until the end of flowering - fertilizers with a higher content of phosphorus and calcium.
Of course it's better to use ready-made mixtures mineral fertilizers, fortunately, today their choice is very large. For example, “Kemira for rhododendrons” or “Kemira universal”. It can be used both for liquid feeding, and simply sprinkled around the bushes at the rate of 100 g per 1 m2.
Microbiological preparations of the “Radiance” series in combination with organic matter give an excellent effect. For example, “Shine - 1” + mulch (pine litter) or “Shine - 3 + sawdust compost (with the addition of a small amount of cow manure).
The special fertilizer “Azalea” is best suited for this; it comes from different companies. During the budding period, to accelerate flowering, fertilizers such as “Kemira-lux” or “Uniflor-bud” are applied, which contain large amounts of potassium and phosphorus; during the growing season, nitrogen-rich “Uniflor-micro” is applied. In spring and summer they feed once a week, in autumn and winter - once every 2 weeks.
Organic fertilizers for azaleas and rhododendrons
Along with mineral fertilizers, rhododendrons also need organic fertilizers. The most accessible and common are semi-rotted cow manure and pine litter compost. Pig and horse manure, as well as poultry manure, are unsuitable because they increase the alkalinity of the soil.
IN THE PHOTO:If the rhododendron lacks iron, it can lead to the development of chlorosis.
Important! Don't forget to check your pH regularly substrate. For heathers, this figure should be in the range of 4.5-5, but not higher. In alkaline soils, mycorrhiza is unable to perform its function, metabolism is disrupted, and the plant is very “starving” even in rich soil.
It is advisable to apply organic, as well as mineral, in liquid form. If you use manure for feeding, it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15–20 and left for 2–3 days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then fertilize the rhododendron.
You can also use slurry after diluting it with water until it turns light brown. To increase the phosphate content in diluted slurry, it is advisable to add superphosphate to it at the rate of 3–4 kg. per 100 l. liquids. If you use slurry as a fertilizer for rhododendron, strictly monitor the soil reaction, since such fertilizer can change the pH level of the substrate. Before feeding, the plant needs to be watered well in order to properly wet the earthen ball.
IN THE PHOTO:
Regularly fertilized rhododendron will appear before you in all its glory - bright, juicy greenery, an abundance of flowers, lush habit.
From time to time, water your green pets with acidified water - azaleas and rhododendrons love it very much. For acidification, you can use citric or oxalic acid (1.5–2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), table or apple cider vinegar 9% (100 grams per 10 liters of water).
Rhododendron is a luxurious and profusely flowering shrub that requires regular feeding to maintain its decorative appearance. From my own experience, I will say that in addition to fertilizers, it requires a soil with a special structure that has an acidic pH.
How often and with what means should you feed rhododendron in spring and autumn so that it pleases you with its healthy appearance and lush flowering?
Unfortunately, the decorative period of many shrubs in our garden is not long enough, but there are several varieties of rhododendron that, if properly managed care will bloom from May to September.
To support the plant at this difficult summer stage, it is important to apply fertilizing in advance, which will nourish the root system and provide peduncles and green mass with important microelements.
Like any garden plant, rhododendron needs nitrogen in spring, and sodium, phosphorus and potassium in summer and autumn. Experienced gardeners and nursery owners recommend using not standard complexes, such as superphosphate, but creating your own nutrient mixtures from the following preparations:
- potassium nitrate, phosphate or sulfate;
- calcium sulfate;
- magnesium sulfate or ammonium.
These preparations gently acidify the soil to pH values that are comfortable for rhododendron and constantly maintain the achieved level, preventing the ornamental shrub from getting sick. Combinations of substances are selected depending on seasonality and the purpose of feeding and are diluted in water according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Signs of element deficiency
The standard rate of complex and compound fertilizers for rhododendron is not always sufficient. In some cases, a plant may experience a pronounced deficiency of a particular mineral or suffer from an excess of unnecessary elements in the soil.
The need to add a certain element to rhododendron can be determined by specific signs:
- Potassium deficiency is indicated by a pronounced loss of shine in the foliage of ornamental shrubs and the appearance of brown areas on the edges of the blades.
- Rhododendron foliage that turns yellow or fades in the spring may indicate a lack of nitrogen in the soil.
- A persistent lack of phosphorus and potassium leads to a delay in the development of the bush, as well as to the fading of the buds.
- If rhododendron grows on clay soils, even if the planting site is filled with the correct soil mixture, ornamental shrub may suffer from an excess of aluminum ions. This problem manifests itself in persistent yellowing of the leaves, which does not respond to fertilizing. Watering the tree trunk circle with a solution of iron chelate will help correct the situation.
It is imperative to eliminate mineral deficiency, even if the decorative period of rhododendron has already ended. Future flower stalks that will delight you next season are laid in July. By this moment, the soil near the root system should have enough elements important for the development of the ornamental shrub.
Rules for applying fertilizing
The root system of rhododendron is in a successful symbiosis with a special mycorrhiza fungus, which helps the shrub grow in acidic soils and efficiently absorb nutrients.
In order not to destroy this useful “partner”, for fertilizing ornamental shrubs and watering it is necessary to select preparations and water without chlorine.
Another feature of the rhododendron root system is its relative compactness. The roots of the shrub do not grow in different directions, like most plants; they form a small lump that “pumps” nutrients from the planting hole.
It is precisely because of this static nature of the root system that rhododendron needs a constant supply of fertilizers to the soil.
What else should you pay attention to when feeding ornamental shrubs?
- If the bush was planted according to all the rules, with a supply of nutrients, it does not need to be fertilized in the first year.
- Young plants are fed with fertilizers only in liquid form, so the nutrition is absorbed by the bushes faster.
- Choose granular preparations domestic production— most imported ones are created for use in warm climates: such spring fertilizers do not have time to dissolve in the soil in time, which leads to late stimulation of shoot growth. The latter do not have time to prepare for winter and freeze out.
- To feed rhododendrons, lime compounds are not used, which will contribute to alkalization of the soil. Use wood ash with caution; after adding it, a week later, be sure to water it with acidified water. If this is not done, the ornamental shrub will develop chlorosis.
- Do not overuse superphosphate - the combination of microelements in this preparation contributes to the gradual leaching of iron from the soil.
When preparing liquid fertilizers for rhododendron, be sure to follow the proportions recommended by the manufacturer of the mineral fertilizer.
Spring feeding
Feeding rhododendron at the beginning of the season takes place in two stages: they serve to activate the growth of new shoots, stimulate budding and strengthen the root system.
- The very first feeding is carried out in early spring, when the bush wakes up after winter dormancy. In the south of Russia it is produced in mid-April, and in the middle zone - in early May. Ammonium nitrate or organic infusions (mullein, chicken manure, mown grass). These fertilizers enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is necessary for the growth of the bush.
- Second spring feeding produced 2 weeks after the first. At this stage, elements are introduced into the soil that will help the rhododendron maintain its decorative properties, forming a large number of buds. Most often, gardeners use Azofoska, which includes nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, or create their own effective potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (20 grams of superphosphate + 20 grams of potassium sulfate + 40 grams of ammonium sulfate per 1 m 2).
These two stages of fertilizing can be done in one day: with the first fertilizer you pour the rhododendron tree trunk, and 2 hours after the moisture has been absorbed, you scatter dry fertilizing.
The granules will gradually dissolve during watering or under the influence of precipitation and release elements important for bush growth and budding into the soil.
No less important for rhododendron summer care. You will learn how to feed ornamental shrubs after flowering has finished from the video:
Feeding in autumn
Rhododendron, like any perennial shrub, already from mid-August begins to gradually prepare for wintering. As air and soil temperatures decrease, as well as the length of daylight hours, the plant starts processes of decreasing the production of growth hormones, increases the degree of production of inhibitors, and slows down the rate of metabolic processes.
By late autumn, rhododendrons that have prepared for winter should not have moisture in the cells of the above-ground part, otherwise they will not survive the frost.
In order for all these processes to be completed on time, the fertilizing applied from mid-summer should not contain growth-stimulating elements, in particular nitrogen.
In the fall, preparations with potassium and phosphorus will help rhododendron prepare for winter; nursery owners usually use potassium phosphate in combination with magnesium sulfate (20 g per 1 m2) for this purpose.
In the fall, you can add some of the spring fertilizers under the bushes:
- scatter 20 grams of superphosphate around the tree trunk;
- mulch the soil with a 5 cm layer of rotted manure;
- sprinkle the tree trunk circle with three-year-old compost;
- mulch the ground with dried cake from herbal infusion.
You can use products and preparations containing nitrogen only after the bush has completely entered a dormant state, that is, 2 weeks after frost sets in. If you do not have the opportunity to be on the site during this period, postpone this feeding until early autumn.
Rhododendron will enjoy autumn mulching of the tree trunk with materials that acidify the soil. You can use high-moor peat, fresh sawdust, pine bark or needles for this purpose.
A layer of 5-8 cm will serve as additional cover for the root system and will help the shrub survive frosts. In early spring, the mulch should be temporarily removed to avoid retention of perched water and damping off of the roots.
Another interesting material for mulching rhododendrons is heather compost, which has been prepared for several years from pine needles, heather soil, dust, sphagnum, sand and high peat.
Its lime-free formula maintains comfortable soil acidity, and specific fungi help the root system receive nutrition. If you can't find heather compost for sale, you can go into the coniferous forest and remove the top layer of soil in the areas where blueberries, blueberries and lingonberries grow.
This “treat” for the rhododendron can be applied not only in the fall - add nutritious soil every 2 weeks under the bush throughout the season - and it will definitely thank you with a long period of decorativeness.
Not every fan of rhododendron can achieve a truly luxurious appearance. The plant is demanding in terms of growing conditions, and proper and timely application of fertilizers occupies a special place in its care. How to feed rhododendron in the spring, so that when summer comes it will delight everyone around with its beautiful flowers? The answer to this question is in this article.
Insufficient nutrition or an unbalanced diet of rhododendrons significantly worsens their health and decorative properties. The lack of various chemical elements manifests itself in the following changes in the appearance of the shrub:
- leaves turn yellow;
- young shoots stop growing;
- buds freeze in development and fall off;
- leaves become covered with spots.
If the crown of the rhododendron has lost its natural shine, and dirty brown spots appear along the edges of the green leaf blades, potassium reserves in the soil are depleted, the bushes must be urgently fed with appropriate fertilizer.
Yellowing of the foliage indicates an excess of aluminum, which is often “sinned” clay soils. In this case, watering the plant with a solution of iron chelate can help.
Deterioration of the decorative properties of rhododendron in the second year after planting in open ground often attributed to problems with acclimatization or pest infestation. However, treating such a specimen and spraying it insecticides often only makes the situation worse. The shrub lacks nutrition, the reserves of which in the soil have dried up in the first year of cultivation.
For normal development and lush flowering Rhododendron should follow the recommendations regarding its fertilizing as closely as possible.
Features of the root system: what fertilizers cannot be used?
Home distinguishing feature rhododendron roots is the presence of mycorrhiza in them - a special fungus that helps the plant survive and develop in acidic soil with a minimal content of nutrients (the bushes prefer this kind of soil).
Mycorrhiza makes its own demands on the composition of fertilizers and fertilizers. It does not tolerate chlorine, so in preparations for rhododendrons this chemical element there shouldn't be.
The root system of the shrub is compact; it is not capable of growing strongly and independently obtaining food for the plant from deeper layers of soil and more distant from the planting site. This feature It is imperative to take into account when caring for the crop, feeding it in a timely manner, so that rhododendrons do not lack the chemical elements that are important for them during the growth process.
Basic feeding rules
When feeding the crop in question with the necessary substances, you must adhere to the following recommendations:
- Rhododendrons require fertilizers and fertilizing from the first year of planting. A poor diet quickly affects the health and appearance of plants, and a long-term lack of nutrition can lead to their death.
When fertilizing rhododendrons, it is important to carefully monitor the dosage of the drugs. If the bush is feeling well, instead of fertilizing, it is better to mulch the soil under it so as not to damage the roots with excess “chemicals”.
- Fertilizers for rhododendrons are applied to the soil for the first time in early spring to help the plants regain strength after wintering. The next application is planned for mid-summer after flowering and during the period of active growth of vegetative mass. Feeding should be completed in mid-July so that excess nutrition does not provoke the growth of new stems, which will not have time to grow stronger in the months remaining before winter and will freeze out with the onset of cold weather.
- Before fertilizing the rhododendron, it needs to be watered abundantly to protect the roots from chemical burns. The shrub also responds well to monthly watering with acidified water. Prepare it by squeezing the juice of 1 lemon into 1 liter of water (you can use it instead citric acid– 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water). Each plant requires at least 5 liters of such liquid.
- Both organic and mineral fertilizers are applied in liquid form. Only in autumn or early spring is it allowed to feed plants with whole humus. To do this, pieces of fertilizer are laid out under the bushes on the surface of the ground. Rain and melt water will take nutrients with them and deliver them to the roots in dissolved form.
Types of fertilizers
To feed rhododendrons, both organic and mineral fertilizers are used with equal success, which differ from each other in the ratio of micro- and macroelements, as well as in the features of application.
Mineral
Special fertilizers developed for the needs of rhododendrons and azaleas, due to their balanced composition, help to avoid mistakes in organizing fertilizing. Such mixtures are easy to prepare and are well absorbed by plants.
Organic
Organic matter is the most environmentally friendly option for feeding rhododendrons, but due to its high nitrogen content it can only be used in the spring. Natural fertilizers not only increase soil fertility, but also improve its structure and enhance moisture-retaining properties.
The composition of organic fertilizer may include manure, bird droppings, peat, compost, horn shavings, etc. Organic matter is usually applied under bushes in the form of an aqueous solution, but it can also be used as mulch. Good way organizing additional nutrition for rhododendrons - mulching tree trunks in spring and autumn with a mixture of rotted manure and high-moor peat.
Feeding scheme
At certain stages of development, rhododendrons require different nutrients, therefore, when fertilizing, you should adhere to the following fertilizer application schedule:
- At the beginning of spring, the bush is fertilized with organic matter or preparations containing nitrogen (ammonium nitrate is suitable). This fertilizing helps the plants come out of hibernation and prepare for future flowering.
- With the onset of the budding period, the plant diet is enriched with fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (Azofoska can be used). This allows you to strengthen the root system of the rhododendron, extend the flowering period and stimulate the process of growing new shoots.
- When flowering is complete, the bushes are fed with complex fertilizers. A universal mixture of potassium sulfate and superphosphate (20 g each) with the addition of ammonium sulfate (40 g) is suitable. This measure helps the plants recover and successfully cope with the subsequent formation of flower buds in order to bloom on time in the new season.
Feeding ends in mid-July, as at this time rhododendrons begin to prepare for the dormant period. Additional nutrition will enhance shoot growth and worsen the winter hardiness of plants.
Products on the market
There are a great variety of products on the market for feeding rhododendrons. When choosing the optimal fertilizer, you should focus on what problems the plants have and what final result needs to be achieved by using this or that drug.
Pokon
A universal fertilizer made in Holland that promotes regular, abundant and long flowering rhododendrons, as well as maximizing their health. The product is well absorbed by plants and can be used year-round. During the active growing season, the composition is diluted according to the instructions (at the rate of 10 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water); in winter, for home or greenhouse varieties, the dosage is halved.
Bona forte
Russian complex fertilizer for rhododendrons is used to increase their decorative properties, stimulate growth and provide adequate nutrition. When growing shrubs, it is recommended to combine root feeding and spraying with Bona Forte. To water plants, the drug is diluted in water at the rate of 10 ml per 1.5 liters of liquid, sprayed with a solution containing half the dose of the product.
Manure
Cow manure is used as a fertilizer for rhododendrons only in semi-rotted form. Fertilizing is carried out in spring or summer, carefully monitoring the level of soil acidity and preventing it from decreasing.
Pork and horse manure are absolutely not suitable for fertilizing rhododendrons, as they contribute to alkalization of the soil.
Preparations containing compressed manure can be easily found in gardening stores.
Succinic acid
This substance is not a fertilizer, but is used as an aid to improve the absorption of nutrients from the soil by plants. The drug is available in the form of a water-soluble powder.
Wrong actions and their consequences
Rhododendrons are very sensitive to care. Even small inaccuracies in actions can lead to a deterioration in the decorativeness and health of these plants. This is especially true for the quality, quantity and timeliness of feeding shrubs.
Overdose
This is the mistake flower growers make most often, and its consequences for rhododendrons are the most dire. An excessive dose of fertilizer can burn the tender roots of a bush so much that it may be impossible to save the plant. If, as a result of an overdose of fertilizing, the situation has not yet reached a critical level and the flower is showing signs of life, it makes sense to urgently transplant it into a fresh substrate, treating the root system with Zircon according to the instructions. This measure is rare, but still helps rhododendron recover from chemical burns.
Unsuitable formulations
Fertilizers that reduce soil acidity should not be applied to rhododendrons. From such fertilizing, the flowers will slow down in development, will become sick and may die.
Also unsuitable for rhododendrons are compositions that have a different ratio of basic micro- and macroelements from the needs of shrubs. The use of such fertilizers will only harm vulnerable flowers.
Violation of the rules of care
Rhododendrons do not like:
- Spraying during the flowering period. Plants react to this procedure by darkening and subsequently dropping buds and inflorescences.
- Feeding during flowering. The answer to this manipulation is the same as in the previous case. While the plants are blooming, fertilizing is canceled completely.
- Applying fertilizer in hot weather or dry soil. As a result, the roots of the shrubs are affected by chemical burns, which in the future often leads to the death of the plants.
Feeding should only be done in the evening or early morning hours.
Maximum decorativeness from rhododendron or azalea cannot be achieved if the intricacies of organizing nutrition for these evergreen shrubs have not been mastered. High-quality and timely fertilizing is easily provided luxurious bloom and attractive appearance crops throughout the growing season.
Rhododendrons are a luxurious garden decoration; they are grown everywhere in different climatic conditions. Deciduous representatives of the flower culture are distinguished by their unpretentiousness to environmental factors and adapt well to new living conditions. At proper care with regular fertilizing evergreen varieties " rosewood"are also capable of surprising with intensive growth and impressive flowering.
Rhododendron
The plant belongs to the Heather family and is a huge success among gardeners thanks to beautiful foliage and abundant flowering. The inflorescences of some varieties of the crop have a delicate aroma. The leaves are spiral-shaped; depending on the species, the size of the flowers in the inflorescence varies in the range of up to 5 cm or more.
Rhododendron has a compact root system. Due to the absence of root hairs, the basis of nutrition for the shrub is the mycelium of mycorrhiza - the simplest fungi. For the normal functioning of the mycelium, constant air circulation is necessary, so dense soils are contraindicated for the plant. Its natural habitat is undergrowth with a special microclimate, where rhododendron is protected by trees from winds, scorching rays of the sun, and seasonal temperature fluctuations.
Rhododendron prefers light shade. For planting, you need to choose a place where there is a sufficient level of illumination in the morning and in the evening. At the same time, the plant does not tolerate direct midday rays and suffers from exposure to the scorching sun. It is optimal for its cultivation in the vicinity of trees, in the shade of which the bush is provided with diffused light. The culture also needs protection from the winds.
Important! In order for rhododendron to delight with its luxurious appearance and abundant flowering, it is necessary to create conditions for its natural habitat.
At the same time, regular feeding should not be neglected, since a green pet needs timely replenishment with useful substances.
With a deficiency of useful elements necessary for development, rhododendron leaves lose their color intensity and shine, turn yellow and dry out. Lightening of foliage and falling - alarm signal about the exhaustion of the green pet. Poor shoot development also indicates a lack of nutrition. In the absence of a sufficient level of soil fertility with a deficiency of fertilizer, the “rose tree” will not only wilt and not bloom, but may also die.
Soil requirements
Rhododendron naturally lives in loose, acidic soil with a high humus content. To grow crops on garden plot it is necessary to prepare a fertile mass with the appropriate characteristics, paying attention to individual points.
Rhododendron loves acidic soil with a pH of up to 4.5. In alkaline soil, the seedling has virtually no chance of development. Moreover, even in areas with a neutral pH, the crop grows poorly and will not be able to please even with sparse flowering.
The optimal soil mixture for rosewood consists of high peat, coniferous decline and leaf soil in proportions 2:1:3. You can also use a substrate made of equal parts of red peat and pine or spruce drops. To acidify low-lying peat, sphagnum moss, ammonium, potassium sulfate or other acidic fertilizers are added.
- heather soil from under conifers;
- garden soil or river sand;
- rotted cow dung;
- humus. You can use aged compost;
- coniferous mass.
The mixture consists of equal proportions of ingredients. TO ready substrate add 100 g of Kemira-universal fertilizer. If necessary, you can purchase targeted soil for rhododendrons.
The soil for rosewood must be breathable. When planting a plant on clayey area There is good drainage in the hole. In places with close proximity groundwater You can build a small hill under the rhododendron to prevent spring flooding.
Feeding for rhododendron
Rhododendron is fed with organic matter and mineral compounds 2-3 times per season. Before each application, it is necessary to water the seedling abundantly so that the tree trunk circle is well moistened.
Important! Chlorides and lime should not be used for fertilizing.
Natural fertilizers in the form of liquid mullein are a priority; it is also effective to apply rotted manure under the bush, lightly mixing it with the top layer of soil. You can use ready-made mineral fertilizers for rhododendron, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions. Inorganic substances with an acidic reaction are relevant: urea, ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate, superphosphate.
Important! Rhododendron reacts positively to feeding with acidic water. A useful solution is prepared from the juice of 1 lemon per liter of water. Once a month, pour 2.5 liters of lemon substance under the bush.
in spring
Spring feeding is designed to bring the crop out of winter hibernation and prepare it for flowering. At the beginning of the season, the “pink tree” is fed with nitrogen-containing organic matter.
If there is no organic matter, you can use mineral fertilizers according to the following scheme:
- early spring: ammonium sulfate 50 g + magnesium sulfate 50 g per 1 m²;
- after the flowering phase: potassium sulfate 20 g + ammonium sulfate 40 g + superphosphate 20 g per 1 m².
Well-rotted manure is a priority, preferably with the addition of high-moor peat. This mixture is used instead of mulch: pour a bucket of fertilizer into the tree trunk circle and water it generously. The plant responds well to feeding with diluted mullein 1:15. The solution must be kept for several days for microbiological processes, and only then 10 liters should be applied to an adult bush.
In the final phase of flowering of the “rose tree”, feeding with the targeted complex composition “Kemira” is effective. Fertilizing enriches the green pet's feeding area with useful substances and acidifies the soil.
In summer
Summer feeding involves taking care of the growth and formation of flowering buds for the coming season. If the Kemira fertilizer was not used during the flowering period, in June the rhododendron is fed with nitrogen compounds to grow green shoots. Experienced flower growers We strongly recommend a nutrient solution with ammonium nitrate in the proportions of 60 g/20 l of water per adult bush.
In the second half of July, when shoot growth is completed and flower buds appear, the plant is fertilized with a phosphorus-potassium mixture.
Important! Summer feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer is the key abundant flowering rhododendron next season.
in autumn
Wet warm air can provoke secondary growth of green shoots, which run the risk of freezing during the first autumn cold. Before the beginning of autumn, in order to stop the growth of shoots, it is necessary to treat the crown with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate. You can spray with another drug - monosubstituted potassium phosphate.
In late autumn, rhododendron is fertilized with a complex of phosphorus and potassium elements to increase the frost resistance of the crop.
Popular fertilizers
The most effective fertilizer for rhododendron, according to experienced gardeners, this is a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution. The composition contains basic macroelements and substances useful for maintaining soil acidity. The nutrient mixture is prepared in proportions of 8 g of potassium nitrate and monosubstituted potassium phosphate per 10 liters of water.
When cultivating rosewood alone, solutions of mineral salts are relevant. For mass plantings of flower crops, dried fertilizers are used:
- superphosphate 20 g;
- potassium sulfate 20 g;
- ammonium sulfate 40 g.
80 g of dry mixture is applied in early spring under a bush 1 m high. After the flowering phase, repeat feeding in half the dose.
The specificity of long-acting preparations provides for gradual feeding of the flower crop over a certain period of time with a one-time application.
Pokon
The drug is relevant when planting young seedlings, and is also effective as spring feeding. The granules are introduced into the tree trunk circle, lightly mixed with the surface substrate, and watered generously. For 1 bush, 30 g of the drug is used once a season. The Pokon product is available in 900g packs.
ASB-Greenworld
The product is indicated for ornamental vegetation that grows in an acidic environment. With the help of the drug, the growth and development of the crop is stimulated, the budding process is accelerated, the color of the foliage improves, and the flowers also acquire a rich color. Apply according to instructions every 3 months.
Agrecol
When planting, use 10-50 g of product depending on the size of the seedling. To feed adult plants, apply granules under the bush and lightly cover them with soil mixture, followed by abundant watering:
- flower crops with a height of more than 1 m - 60 g for each meter of growth;
- bushes up to 70 cm - 70 g per plant;
- low plantings - 50 g per bush.
To ensure optimal nutrition for rhododendrons, fertilizer is applied 2 times per season with an interval of 3 months.
Important! Long-acting granular fertilizers are designed for climate zones with 6 months of warm weather. The use of the drug in cold regions leads to secondary growth of shoots at the end of summer, which is fraught with their freezing.
Features of care
To help the “rose tree” awaken after winter, it is necessary to properly organize care work:
- save the kidneys from drying out. Remove half of last year's frozen mulch to help the soil near the roots thaw faster. This will save the buds from drying out, as the root system will begin active work;
- spray the plant warm water, you can even use boiling water for watering;
- build a protective shield from the sun;
- The winter shelter is removed in early April after the soil has thawed to a depth of 25-30 cm.
If burns are detected on the shoots or drying out of the buds, you need to spray the planting with warm water daily, alternating treatment with a growth stimulant at intervals of 3-4 days.
Before flowering
Care before flowering consists of: proper watering and feeding a green pet. Fertilizing with nitrogen compounds in the spring has a positive effect on the growing season. To prevent diseases, rhododendron should be treated with a copper-containing fungicide, for example, the drug "Hom" or a solution of copper sulfate.
The frequency of watering depends on climatic conditions, the composition of the soil mixture and the location of the plant. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the rhododendron and water as necessary. During the period of active growth and flowering - from April to July - the “pink tree” especially needs regular watering. If it is a hot, dry summer, you should spray the foliage every other day in the evening after sunset or early in the morning.
After flowering
During this period, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied, which ensures the formation of next year's buds. In order to stimulate abundant flowering in the coming season, the inflorescences are broken off immediately after they have bloomed. From August, the “rose tree” is watered less frequently to eliminate the risk of secondary growth of stems.
In the fall, it is necessary to prepare the rhododendron for wintering. The event consists of proper watering, high-quality mulching, disease prevention and the construction of a shelter for the winter. In September, the bush is watered more often than in August. From October to November frosts it is necessary abundant watering before winter. Adequate moisture contributes to the endurance of the “rosewood” and increases the chances of a successful wintering.
Conclusion
With proper care, rhododendron will provide an attractive appearance all season long. With the help of fertilizing, it is easy to ensure maximum decorativeness of the plant with the mesmerizing beauty of luxurious inflorescences.
All over the world.
Rhododendron (Rhododendron) is the largest genus in the heather family (Ericaceae), named from the Greek words “rhodon” (“rose”) and “dendron” (“tree”) This genus includes about 1300 species and approximately 30 thousand varieties of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees.
Gardeners' interest in rhododendrons and azaleas is due to the decorativeness of their foliage and the variety of bush shapes, and most of all -. Plant lovers are captivated by the splendor and abundance of white, pink, lilac, violet, red flowers, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences, reminiscent of an exquisite bouquet.
Depending on the species and variety, the flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas vary in size (from 1-1.5 cm to 6-10 cm in diameter) and shape (wheel-shaped, funnel-shaped, bell-shaped and tubular). There are rhododendrons with fragrant flowers.
The autumn decoration of the leaves of some deciduous species of rhododendrons is not inferior in beauty to the bright decoration.
There is a misconception among gardeners about the difficulty of cultivating these plants. However, in central Russia it is no more difficult to breed or. The main thing when growing rhododendrons is to follow a few simple rules common to this culture. When choosing these plants for your garden, keep in mind that for climatic conditions middle zone Only suitable for Russia.
Choosing a place in the garden to plant rhododendron
To plant rhododendron, you should choose the most suitable place in the garden, taking into account biological features of this type. Therefore, before purchasing a plant you like and planting a seedling.
The lighting conditions of the selected plant should be approximately the same as in natural environment his habitat.
The most suitable place for rhododendron in terms of lighting conditions can be considered a place where there will be open sky(which will provide plants with better access to precipitation and light), and at midday they will be covered by diffuse shadow from other plants. Ideal option for rhododendron - a sparse pine forest or clearing located between tall pines.
Rhododendrons can be planted near other trees whose roots go deep. For example, near oak or larch.
Tree species with a root system close to the surface (linden, maple, chestnut, poplar, willow, elm, alder) are not suitable for proximity to rhododendron, depriving the rhododendron of moisture and nutrition, which is why it develops poorly and may die. Therefore, in case of forced planting of rhododendron in close proximity to unwanted trees, isolation from their roots must be provided. The feeding area of the rhododendron is insulated using roofing felt, polyethylene or other materials.
A suitable place for growing rhododendrons is on the north side of the building, where the sun illuminates the plants early in the morning and in the afternoon.
When determining a place for planting rhododendrons, care must be taken to protect the bushes from prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for this crop. In open areas of the garden, rhododendrons (especially evergreen species) suffer in winter not so much from frost as from the drying effect of the wind.
It is especially undesirable to place rhododendrons near the corners of buildings where there are strong drafts, as well as in free spaces between buildings.
Reliable wind protection for rhododendrons can be provided by the walls of buildings, solid fences, hedges and plantings of coniferous trees.
It is better to plant rhododendrons in an elevated place in the garden, where there is no spring stagnation of water.
Planting rhododendron
Having chosen a suitable place in the garden for the rhododendron, you can begin preparing the seedling for planting.
The distance between bushes of tall rhododendron species is 1.5-2.0 m, medium-sized ones - at least 1.2 m, low-growing ones - 0.5-0.7 m.
Rhododendrons for good growth and lush flowering requires loose, acidic soil with a high content. Lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers that shift the soil pH to the alkaline side should not enter the root feeding zone.
The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so it is enough to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep (without taking into account the thickness of the layer of drainage materials). The width of the hole depends on the size of the adult plant. For example, for large bushes(Katevba rhododendron, yellow rhododendron) the pit should be at least 80 cm wide.
If the garden soil is clayey, then it is necessary to arrange drainage for the rhododendron seedling - for this, a drainage layer (gravel or broken brick) of about 10 cm is poured onto the bottom of the hole.
The planting hole is then filled with a suitable substrate.
Substrate preparation is the most important component of successfully growing rhododendrons. It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. These requirements are best met by a mixture of leaf soil, high-moor peat, and coniferous tree litter (3:2:1).
You can use a substrate consisting only of equal parts of high-moor peat and coniferous litter (pine or spruce).
Experts recommend the following substrate composition for planting rhododendron:
- sphagnum or heather soil (from under coniferous plants);
- humus or ripened;
- Part garden soil;
- cow manure (rotted is better);
- pine litter;
- fertilizer “Kemira-universal” (100 g).
The rhododendron root ball removed from the pot should be well saturated with water before planting. If it is dry, immerse it in water and wait until the release of air bubbles stops.
The rhododendron bush is planted in a hole filled with substrate at the same depth as before.
When planting, do not cover the root collar of rhododendrons with soil! Because of this, plants stop blooming and eventually die.
We take out a rhododendron seedling with a closed root system from the container, carefully straighten the roots (we cut off very long ones).
We compact the substrate in the planting hole. After planting is complete, water the rhododendron, even in the rain. After planting rhododendron, it is advisable to mulch the soil.
Mulching the rhododendron tree trunk is mandatory; this is a mandatory technique for this crop. Peat, pine litter, or dry leaves (preferably oak) are suitable as mulch. It is undesirable to use maple leaves and horse chestnut, they decompose quickly and have an alkaline reaction. You can mix peat with sawdust.
Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, protects roots from overheating in hot weather, and from freezing in winter. Mulch suppresses weed growth; rotting, it increases the humus content and acidity of the soil. The mulch layer should be at least 5 cm. When mulching the rhododendron tree trunk circle, you should not fill the root collar.
The first time after planting, the rhododendron seedling should be watered frequently in small portions (3 liters of water per young plant) for better rooting. Then water according to the weather. IN dry time It is better to water the rhododendron daily. Also, during the dry period, you can pour the rhododendron bush “over the head” - over the leaves, but do not do this in the sun.
A young rhododendron seedling (2-3 years old) has a small root ball, so when planted immediately open place it will suffer from a lack of moisture due to the rapid drying of the top layer of soil. It is better to first plant such a young plant in some protected shaded place, in a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 20-25 cm. And after 2-3 years, transplant the grown rhododendron, as expected, to a permanent place.
Rhododendrons and azaleas tolerate transplantation well up to the age of 5-6 years.
The great advantage of rhododendrons is the possibility of planting or replanting them in the garden at any time in spring, summer and autumn due to their compact fibrous root system.
When planting small rhododendrons in the fall, it is advisable to lightly cover them with spruce branches (do not cover them with soil).
Caring for rhododendrons and azaleas
Rhododendrons do not need pruning. If desired, you can form a bush: pluck out the growing point on the branches, up to the leaves, so that the rhododendron bushes better.
In the photo: frost-resistant azaleas of the varieties “Northern Hi-Lights”, “Klondyke”, “Feuerwerk”
Feeding rhododendrons
Properly planted rhododendrons do not need additional feeding for several years. However, if you want to speed up the onset of the first flowering (or achieve more abundant flowering), then fertilizer is applied.
Fertilizers containing chlorine and lime are not suitable for feeding rhododendrons.
Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, starting in early spring and ending in mid-July.
There are a variety of liquid and granular fertilizers available that are designed specifically for rhododendrons. They should be applied according to the directions on the package.
You can use ordinary mineral fertilizers that have an acidic reaction: ammonium nitrate, urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. Their concentration should not exceed 1:1000 (and potassium - even lower).
From organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, we can recommend old, semi-rotted cow manure, which is applied on top of the soil in spring or autumn. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the pH of the soil. It is undesirable to use horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, as they increase the pH of the soil.
Azaleas and rhododendrons greatly appreciate monthly watering with sour water infused with ordinary water. To obtain such an infusion, you will need five lemons per 5 liters of water: squeeze out the fruits (throw the squeezed lemons into water) and let stand for 5-6 hours. Next, pour 2.5 liters of this acidified water under one large rhododendron bush or 1.5 liters under a small bush (up to 1 m in height).
Approximate feeding scheme for rhododendron:
- 1 feeding - early in spring;
- 2nd feeding - before flowering;
- 3rd feeding - 2-3 weeks after flowering (but no later than mid-August).
In the spring, fertilize rhododendrons with diluted mullein.
In summer - application of mullein with the addition of potassium and phosphorus. Please note that from the beginning of August, rhododendrons need to begin to be prepared for winter, reducing the amount of nitrogen in fertilizers.
In late autumn - add phosphorus and potassium.
Proper planting and proper care of rhododendrons and azaleas is the key to their endurance, successful wintering and excellent flowering.