Having decided to arrange in country house shower, we thought. The most simple solution It would be nice to buy a fiberglass shower stall. But, after looking at the models that were installed by friends, we abandoned plastic: dacha conditions it quickly loses its appearance, and the strength of such a cabin is low. Therefore, we decided to make a shower stall ourselves with a monolithic tray. When choosing the design and materials, we had to take into account that the house freezes in winter, and even in the off-season it can be quite cool.
Initial data
The room for the shower cabin was allocated between outer wall home and an internal partition - the wall of the sauna. The water from it will be drained into the septic tank through a sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which was installed in advance during the installation of the foundation and floor (the latter is made of a concrete slab).
On aerated concrete shower walls coated with moisture-resistant cement plaster and then with a layer of fiber rubber waterproofing (in several passes), we glued ceramic tiles (we used moisture-resistant, frost-resistant tile adhesive). The level of the bottom tiles was designed to leave a gap for the multi-layer structure of the pallet. Then I assembled the drain (also called a sewer drain) and installed it in place, thoroughly sealing the pipe coming out of the floor with silicone sealant (photo 1).
“Cake” of 8 layers
Surface of the slab at the base of the future shower tray I leveled it by filling it with self-leveling floor mixture, after which tile adhesive I attached sheets of insulation - extruded polystyrene foam - to it. The thickness of all layers was selected in accordance with the design of the drain: its grate should ultimately be 1-2 mm below the surface of the pan.
Finally, I adjusted the drain of the shower tray to the level and laid a plaster mesh over the insulation, securing it with self-tapping screws. Installed beacons and filled cement screed(photo 2). After the cement had gained strength (after 3 days at a temperature of +20 °C), I once again coated all the corners and joints of the planes with fiber rubber for additional waterproofing, and after it had dried, I filled it with tile adhesive. At the exit of the shower stall, I installed a barrier for water from sand-lime bricks and plastered it with moisture-resistant cement plaster over reinforcing mesh.
To make taking a shower truly comfortable, and to make splashes of water dry faster, I decided to make a heated tray. To do this, on top of its surface and throughout the entire area of the bathroom, I laid the electrical cable of the heated floor (photo 3) according to the diagram (its total power was about 1.5 kW) and filled it with a coarse self-leveling mixture (3). It is better to use a special leveler for heated floors - it has a higher heat capacity and is less susceptible to thermal expansion.
Reference
Fiber rubber is a modern waterproofing mastic based on water based with the addition of reinforcing fibers to increase the strength of the finished coating.
Extruded polystyrene foam - foamed thermal insulation material. It differs from conventional foam plastic by having significantly greater compressive strength, which allows it to be laid as a load-bearing layer.
Sloping
After the first steps were completed, I began the final formation of the pallet bed. I primed the concrete surface of the screed with acrylic primer, and after it dried, I began to form a slope of the surface of the pallet towards the center of the shower stall. To do this using laser level I marked the top line along the walls and laid out a small funnel with very sloping edges and a decrease towards the center from a thick, rough leveling mixture and tile adhesive for the natural outflow of water. I made the angular barrier of the shower tray round and injury-safe using a template from half a ventilation pipe.
The base for the shower tray was ready. For insurance, I covered it with two more layers of waterproofing, each 2-3 mm thick (photo 4).
Finishing
When the waterproofing has completely dried, it’s time finishing. I decided to use instead floor tiles glass mosaic: it is easier to adjust to uneven surface and it’s not difficult to install, since it is sold in ready-made sheets on a mesh base. Having laid out and adjusted all the sheets in place, I glued them on using special glue. The seams were grouted with latex grout with increased resistance to cracking and mold (photo 5). I applied it diagonally with an elastic rubber spatula, immediately removing the excess. To avoid leaving a whitish coating on the mosaic, I removed the grout in three steps: first with just a damp sponge, then with water with the addition of a few drops of acetic acid, and finally with crumpled dry newspaper. I waited half an hour and finally wiped off the remains white plaque with a slightly damp sponge and newspaper until a dry, “clean” squeak occurs (photo 6).
The shower tray turned out great. Over several years of operation and wintering in both a heated and freezing house, no cracks or damage appeared on it.
How to lay mosaic?
When adjusting sheets and needing to trim mosaic tiles It is most convenient to use nippers: the tiles are cut in one quick movement. For gluing, use special mosaic glue, and if the tiles are translucent, be sure to white. It is applied with a comb (notched) spatula with a tooth height of 3-4 mm. At a time, only apply glue to an area of one or two sheets. Having laid each sheet of the mosaic, it is carefully pressed down with the palm of your hand. The glue that has seeped into the seams is immediately removed (with a match or a plastic cross for tiles).
shower tray pump, equipped shower mixer, shells
perforated container with a sealed lid.
In this version, the country shower is no different from the city shower... Show more
Country shower D-1, device and configuration options.
Country shower D-1, a universal country shower cabin, the internal size of which is designed for installation: shower tray 900*900 mm. separated by curtain; instantaneous storage electric water heater horizontal arrangement of the well-known company Thermex is placed in an attic niche, which promotes effective heating from solar radiation (remember the interior of a car after a long stay), connected to a water supply or pump, equipped automatic switching unit when the pressure in the system decreases, separate supply of hot and cold water provides for installation shower mixer, shells with a mixer, the internal supply is hidden between the double wall cladding.
There are various options for draining used water: connection to a sewer; septic tank; in the absence of such, it is buried in the ground behind the product perforated container with a sealed lid.
In this version, the country shower is no different from the shower in a city apartment.
Minimum care requirements as, outer side country shower is finished with siding beige color, which does not require periodic processing, compared to those produced from wood elements, with inside White PVC panels, ideal for finishing premises for this purpose.
Orders for spring work in 2019 are accepted and will be executed according to the order of receipt.
You can buy a country shower D-1 directly from the website by filling out the appropriate form, or order it by calling the numbers provided.
This price includes the price of the product in disassembled form: the base area is covered with linoleum; wall panels with sheathing on both sides; roof assembly.
We will deliver selected products throughout Moscow and surrounding regions, delivery cost is 40 rubles/km. from the warehouse: Shebantsevo street, Russia, Moscow region, Domodedovo, Belye Stolby microdistrict; the cost of assembling the product is 2000 rubles.
Determining the delivery distance in Yandex.Maps (in the “routes” sign to point A that opens, enter the name of the delivery point).
Installation is carried out on screw piles within one day on the specified site (at least one meter free around the perimeter from the boundaries of possible obstacles, to allow movement when assembling the product) and the presence of a supplied water source (a 3/4" (19 mm) watering hose is sufficient. connected to a water supply or pump).
Dimensions of this product: 1520x1020x2600 mm.
Product warranty - 1 year, components - manufacturer's warranty.
Scheme of a pile-screw foundation for a country shower
Producedby our forces, consists of four screw piles (the customer is required to indicate an installation location that is free from possible obstacles for screwing in piles), in the section: Accessories for shower and toilet .
Equipment optionsin section Accessories for sanitary cabins
Instructions for use of country showers and toilets.
Start of the operating season:
1. Replace all dismantled elements of the system in preparation for the winter season
2. Before turning on the water supply to the instantaneous storage electric water heater,
install the taps hot water V open state close until the water comes out,
the system is filled and ready for the season of operation.
3. Turn on the water heating key (the thermostat maintains the temperature automatically
mode).
4. When the desired temperature is reached, proceed to use (the water source to the system must be turned on).
Closing of the operating season:
1. Turn off the water supply, open the water drain valve from the system, turn on the mixer taps
in the middle position and do not close until spring, to ensure complete drainage of water from
system, unscrew the shower head and blow through the system through the shower hose.
2. Drain the water from the toilet barrel and wipe dry, using a pear or any small container,
pump out the water from the toilet water seal (approximately 0.5 liters) dry.
3. Remove the cleaning caps from the siphons (if any) and leave them removed
until spring.
4. Maximum drainage of places where water accumulates guarantees an increase in time
operability of system elements.
High performance indicators have made shower cabins in demand not only for small bathrooms; today they are also installed in prestigious houses or apartments as an alternative to bathtubs. Shower trays are considered one of the main elements of the cabin; the correct installation of them affects the convenience and duration of use. The pallet installation algorithm depends on its design features and material of manufacture.
Before purchasing a specific pallet, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages various options. What types of pallets are there?
Depending on the material of manufacture, linear dimensions and geometric shapes, the cost of pallets varies quite widely. These characteristics also influence the installation methods of pallets. Professionals conditionally classify products into the following categories.
| Classification indicator | Brief characteristics and features |
|---|---|
| They can be made from ductile iron, sheet steel, ceramics and plastic. Metal ones are characterized by increased strength, the inner surface is covered with durable enamel. Cast iron is much more expensive than steel. The disadvantage is that the cast iron pan remains cold for a long time, which negatively affects the comfort of water procedures. Ceramic ones do not have widespread, in terms of performance and price occupy an average position. Plastic ones are currently the most commonly used. In all respects they meet modern requirements, have large number various modifications. The price is affordable for the vast majority of users. |
|
| Can be mounted in wall corners or frontally. Depending on the installation location, they differ in size and methods of water drainage. | |
| The hole can be located in the center or in one of the corners of the pallet. There is no particular difference from an installation point of view, but when choosing, you should take into account the layout of existing utility networks in the bathroom. | |
| The height of the sides ranges from 6–10 cm for superflat, 10–18 cm for flat and 25–35 cm for deep trays. | |
| Square, rectangle or sector. Sectoral ones are installed only in the corner of the room, the rest are universally used and can be mounted anywhere. |
shower tray
It is better to purchase pallets complete with shower stalls. If for some reason this option is not suitable for you, then separate installation of the pallet is also possible, and you will have to make the protective fences yourself. When choosing a specific model, it is recommended to pay attention to the following features.
- Noisy. The sound of water falling on steel pallets can cause discomfort from those around you. Especially if you shower early in the morning and interior partitions do not have high noise absorption rates.
The loudest ones are made from sheet steel, acrylic ones are characterized by less noise, all the others do not emit unpleasant sounds. When choosing, take into account the number and daily routine of everyone living in the apartment, the features of the room, and the location of the bathroom in relation to other rooms.
- Strength. Cast iron pallets are the strongest, steel comes in second place, and ceramic and plastic have almost the same performance. If you have children, then it is better to choose durable models; if everyone living is an adult, then there are no restrictions on this parameter. The only note is that for plastic ones it is necessary to provide sufficiently strong stops along the maximum surface - this eliminates the possibility of deformation under heavy weight.
- When choosing an installation location, pay attention to the features of existing water drainage pipes and the architectural characteristics of the room.
- Price. The advice is one and universal - the cost should correspond to financial capabilities. But keep in mind that a high price does not guarantee the same high quality. For example, the most expensive pallets are made from natural stone. But according to actual operational characteristics they come in last place. In this regard, we are not even considering this option.
- Design. Choose a tray that fits seamlessly into the existing bathroom interior. As for color, white is considered not only traditional, but also the most universal.
Video - Which tray to choose for your shower
Once a decision has been made on a specific type, installation can begin. Installation depends on the design features of the pallet; this should be taken into account when purchasing and soberly assess your capabilities and skills. Choose pallets that you can easily install. We will look at three examples of pallet installation, the rest fundamental difference don't have.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a pallet on foam concrete
Construction and installation work is among the simplest in terms of complexity, but increased care is required when connecting drains. For example, let's take a universal square plastic pallet.
Step 1. Decide on a specific installation location. We have already mentioned that you should pay attention to the existing layout of utility networks. The outlet of the drain pipeline must be located under the plane of the pan. Making sewer visible is only allowed in extreme cases. And then in the future it is recommended to take a set of measures to hide the pipelines.
Step 2. Purchase materials and prepare tools. In addition to the pan itself, you will need a siphon, a corrugated drain hose, a tape measure, a level, silicone sealant, foam concrete, tile adhesive, a caulk gun, a saw, a trowel, a tray and a pencil or marker.
Step 3. Preparing for installation. The floor must be clean and level, the outlet of the pipe for draining water is under the plane of the pan. Place the pallet in the intended location and trace the outer contours with a pencil.
Step 4. If your pallet model does not have factory legs, then you need to place it on four stands cut out of foam concrete at all angles. The height of the stands is within 10 cm.
Step 5. Prepare the tile lei according to the instructions. Make sure that there are no dry lumps in the mixture.
Step 6. Apply glue to reverse side four stands, place them in place and place the tray on top.
Using a level, level its position, check all four directions, they must be strictly horizontal. To do this, tilt the blocks in the desired direction with gentle blows of a construction hammer or the handle of a trowel.
Step 7 Wait a bit for the glue to harden. These four corner blocks will be the height guides for the foundation for the pallet. From the same foam blocks, use a hacksaw to cut out pieces for arranging the entire structure. As a result, you should end up with a square that fits the entire perimeter of the pallet.
Practical recommendation. Do the laying in the usual way, applying glue from the bottom and sides of the blocks. Constantly check the position of each element with a level and correct them if any deviations are detected. Further work You can continue only after a day.
While the foundation is maturing, begin installing the shower and faucet. Place them at a convenient height, making sure that there are no leaks at the threaded connections.
Step 8 Place the tray on the foam blocks and mark the location of the drain hole on the floor.
Take care of the drain. If necessary, tighten the drain inlet sewer pipe to the drain hole. In our case, no special precision is needed; the final connection is made with a flexible corrugated hose.
Step 9 Assemble and reinstall the siphon. Very important work. Please note that dismantling plastic pallet on the foundation without damaging it is impossible. Such manipulations can be done with pallets on legs, but we will talk about their features below.
Make every effort to completely eliminate the risk of drain leakage. What should be done for this?
- Read the instructions for assembling the siphon, check technical condition all its elements. Special attention Pay attention to the condition of rubber gaskets and seals.
- Do not use excessive force during assembly. rubber seals install in correct position. To facilitate the entry of plastic pipes into the seals, lubricate them with special lubricants, soap or ordinary water. Never try to connect dryly or with too much force. The fact is that the thin edges of rubber seals are very easily damaged, and as a result, a leak will definitely appear. It is impossible to notice it under the pallet in time, to eliminate problems that have arisen due to prolonged exposure to water building structures It will require not only a lot of time and effort, but also financial resources.
Step 10 Spread the upper perimeter of the block stand with glue, the thickness of the solution is about a centimeter.
Place the pan in place, screw on the siphon, connect the flexible hose to the inlet of the drain pipe.
Step 11 Using a level, level the tray horizontally.
Take your time, lower the edges very carefully. If you make a mistake and one edge of the pan is tilted too much, then to eliminate the problem you will have to disconnect the siphon, remove the pan and start all installation operations over again.
Step 12 Seal the joints where the pallet meets the walls. Be sure to degrease the surfaces and clean them of dirt and dust. There is a wide variety of sealants, but we recommend that you use special plumbing silicone ones. They have a slight elasticity, which compensates for the vibration of the edges of the tray while taking a shower. In addition, it contains antiseptics that prevent the proliferation of microflora and pathogenic bacteria.
Notice how unsightly shower stalls look with black mold stripes around the perimeter of the tray. This is a consequence of violating the rules for installing pallets. Flaw silicone sealants– after a few months it is necessary to inspect the tightness of the seam. The fact is that the material begins to peel off in some places.
The application of sealant is done using a special gun. Cut the tip of the tube at a 45° angle and gently push the material into the slot. Do not leave gaps; irregularities can be removed with your finger or any available object of appropriate width and length can be adjusted. To prevent silicone from sticking to it, wet the item in soapy water.
Step 13 Proceed with covering the visible surfaces of the block foundation of the pallet ceramic tiles. If the tile had to be cut, then it is better to place the cut at the bottom, and to improve the design characteristics, use special plastic or aluminum corners. They are sold in the store along with tiles.
At this point, the work of installing the pallet on the foundation is completed; final installation can be done only after the glue has completely hardened. This will take at least two days.
Installing a shower tray with legs
This pallet is installed much faster; it often comes with a special plastic screen, which allows installation without masonry work. If the screen is not included in the package, then final stage The perimeter of the pallet must be trimmed with blocks or bricks of appropriate parameters and covered with ceramic tiles. Before starting work, check that all pallet installation elements are present and carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 1. Lean the tray against a wall or place it on your workbench. Find the places where the legs are fixed; they have factory markings or are thicker due to molded fastening inserts.
Step 2. Screw the legs. Pre-adjust their height using a tape measure. Exact height adjustment must be done on the floor.
Important. Please note that each leg has a lock nut to secure the element in the selected position. Make sure that all the locknuts are in place, otherwise you will have to remove the legs again to install the nuts.
Step 3. Place the pan in the desired location and decide on the method of connecting the water drainage. Depending on the location of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe, additional connections will have to be made to connect the siphon. The siphon should be sold together with the tray; if not, buy it separately. At the same time, make sure that the dimensions of the equipment allow it to be installed under a pallet. If it's not enough own experience– consult with the store sales consultant.
Step 4. Assemble the siphon, pay great attention to the quality of all connections, do not allow leaks. Remember that eliminating them will always take much longer than a high-quality assembly. Not to mention the financial side of the issue and possible negative consequences.
Step 5. Place the tray back in place and use a level to set it to a horizontal position. Control all sides and do not allow them to slope in any direction. After adjustment, be sure to tighten the locknuts.
Step 6. If included metal profiles to rest the side surfaces against the wall, install them. Mark the specific location and use a level to check the horizontal position. The metal profiles are fixed to the wall with dowels; drill holes for them in in the right places.
Important. If the walls are already finished with ceramic tiles, then all measures should be taken to prevent them from cracking during drilling.
How to avoid unpleasant situations?
- Never drill a hole where tiles meet. When installing metal profiles, it is always possible to move them slightly to one side or another and thus choose a safe place for drilling holes. However, such manipulations will in no way affect the fixation strength of the pallet.
- Always work only with serviceable tools and sharp drills. Do not apply much force while drilling.
- It is strictly forbidden to use a drill in hammer drill mode; ceramic tiles do not tolerate shock loads. The hammer is turned on only after the thickness of the tile has been passed.
Step 7 Connect the drain.
Never assemble rubber seals with great force; lubricate them with mastics or at least moisten them with ordinary water. It is very easy to damage the seals, but they cannot be repaired; they need to be completely replaced. A problem may arise when searching for an identical replacement. Such troubles especially often arise during the search for spare parts for imported pallets. It is not recommended to use silicone as a sealant when assembling the water drain; it will definitely peel off after a certain amount of time and leak.
Installing the pallet on factory plastic stands
Some manufacturers complete pallets with stand blanks made of durable extruded polystyrene foam. Such structures are very low in height and require a different installation algorithm.
Step 1. Unpack the pallet and remove the stand blanks.
Step 2. Try on their length around the perimeter of the pallet, measure the required parameters. To make breaking off easier polystyrene foam boards They have vertical slots; it is enough to bend the material a little in this place and the extra piece will break off.
Step 3. Tip over the collected plastic stand, place it on a pallet and mark the locations of the stiffeners. Here you need to cut recesses according to the height and width of the ribs. At the same time, make a hole for the drain pipe.
Screwing in the legs
Step 5. Assemble and attach the siphon to the drain. It should be located exactly in the center of the pallet. Try to make adjustments in such a way that the gap between the floor and the stand is minimal. If the floor is tilted towards the wall, you will have to remove the stand several times, unscrew/twist the legs and re-check the horizontal position.
The master traces the frame with a marker
Step 7 Clean the surfaces from dust, degrease, and moisten with water.
Apply a little in the center of the drawn outline. polyurethane foam. Also apply foam to the top surface of the stand.
Step 8 Carefully replace the stand and the tray on it, and check the location of the siphon again. It must be located exactly under the drain hole, otherwise problems will arise when fixing it to the pan. Screw onto the drain mesh. At the same time, she presses the siphon against the pan.
Installing a pallet on a frame
Step 9 Press the tray with great force and leave it in this position until the foam hardens. In order to eliminate the possibility of the tray being lifted by foam, it is recommended to press it inside with heavy objects.
Step 10 Once the foam has firmly adhered the tray to the floor, begin finishing the perimeter of the base with ceramic tiles. On the second day, you can begin sealing the joints. The algorithm for sealing work is no different from the options described above.
Practical advice. Before installing the pallet, estimate its approximate height. Today there is a large selection of tiles in stores various sizes, there is a chance that you will be able to find the right one. For a precise fit, use the feet. Due to such manipulations, it will be possible to avoid cutting the tiles, and this not only speeds up the process of laying it, but also greatly improves appearance bathroom.
If you do not plan to buy an assembled shower cabin, then draw a diagram of the mounting locations for the brackets on which the protective polyethylene film will be hung. This is a very economical solution, but this option for arranging a shower room has more disadvantages than advantages.
Video - Rules for installing a pallet
Today, more and more people are abandoning bathtubs in favor of more practical and compact shower cabins. We are already accustomed to the fact that modern shower cabins are complex devices with a built-in radio, lighting, hydromassage, sauna and many other functions.
However, shower cabins without trays are gradually gaining popularity. Unlike closed shower boxes, these cabins are the embodiment of practicality and minimalism.
They have no ceiling at all and no traditional enamel or acrylic tray - the floor is on the same plane as the bathroom floor, and the walls are placed directly on ceramic tiles. As a rule, cabins have rectangular shape and two (for corner models) or four walls.
Tinted glass shower panel, Raso-Filodoccia Angolo
The walls of shower cabins are made of transparent or translucent glass (less commonly plastic). The floor is covered with ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating. To make it possible to walk on the tiles barefoot, a floor heating system is installed underneath.
Despite its apparent simplicity, a shower cabin without a tray requires a carefully organized water drainage system. This system (drain ladder) is mounted directly under the floor of the shower stall. The water flows into a special grate (for this, the tiles are laid at a slight angle) and then goes through the pipes into the sewer.
Directly under the tiles of the shower cabin there are several more layers of screed, hydro- and thermal insulation. Therefore, it is necessary to think at the design stage about what kind of shower cabin you want to install in your bathroom.
In some cases, installing a cabin with a pallet will be both easier and cheaper. For example, in city apartments, going 15 centimeters deep into the ceiling to lay a drain will be problematic. It is necessary to either raise the floor level in the entire bathroom, or make a special podium for the shower. In both cases, you are missing out on many of the important benefits of trayless showers.
Shower cabin with tray MEGIUS Classic R2S
Advantages and disadvantages
Shower cabins without trays - not universal solution, they have their pros and cons.
Main advantages:
- Minimal risk of injury. The absence of steps, barriers, and slippery rounded surfaces makes shower cabins without trays safe for children, the disabled and the elderly.
- Original appearance. Light and stylish showers with glass walls fit perfectly into modern minimalist interiors.
- Maximum simplicity and efficiency. It is quite possible to equip such a shower room yourself and without great expense.
- A shower stall with transparent walls visually enlarges the bathroom and does not “eat up” the space. Therefore, it is ideal for small rooms.
- Easy to clean - you do not need to clean the enamel of the tray with special means - just wipe the floor and walls of the cabin.
- IN spacious rooms lightweight glass shower cabins can also be installed together with a bathtub.
Combined bathroom with shower and bathtub
Flaws:
- In such cabins, unlike hydromassage boxes, there is no additional functions like aromatherapy, hydromassage, sauna, etc.
- The drainage system needs to be planned in advance, and its installation is a rather labor-intensive process.
- You may have to install a special siphon to get rid of unpleasant odor from the sewer.
- If the pipe is clogged or has insufficient capacity, water can stagnate in the cabin and spill throughout the bathroom when the door is opened.
- If the tiles were laid unevenly, puddles may form on the cabin floor.
- The floor and walls of the room must be perfectly flat, otherwise during installation there will be gaps between the walls of the cabin and the tiles that violate the tightness of the cabin.
However, most of these problems are caused by errors in finishing the room and installing the shower stall and drainage system, so they can be completely avoided.
It’s a good idea to build a shower without a tray with your own hands. After all, even Chinese-made booths are sometimes quite expensive, but you don’t want to invest so much money in the purchase. If you are planning a major renovation in the bathroom, then you can make a very beautiful and comfortable shower literally from available materials: cement, brick, tile. The only one mandatory requirement Such a structure requires careful waterproofing. This will prevent conflicts with neighbors below regarding flooding of their bathroom.
Where to start construction?
Preparation for the construction of even a small structure begins with an assessment of construction possibilities. In the case of constructing a shower cabin without a tray, the main attention should be paid to the choice of a sewer drain or drainage device. With its help, water falling from the shower head will be removed without accumulating under a person’s feet.
In city apartments and private houses with an existing subfloor, it would be more rational to install a horizontal drainage system with a side connection to the existing one sewer system. If the construction of a shower takes place during the construction of a cottage, then a vertical drain can be installed with a connection to the local sewer through the ceiling.
Before making a shower without a tray, you need to take into account that the water drainage unit will take up space under its floor. Even for a horizontal ladder, the height to which the floor must be raised is about 10 cm. This creates a fairly large load on the floors in multi-storey building, requires significantly higher repair costs. In this regard, you should make a decision: make a small podium for installing a cubicle or evenly raise the floor level over the entire area of the bathroom.
How to make a podium?
The dimensions of the raised area of the floor for the shower must be sufficient so that a person can take a shower without touching the walls and fence of the stall. They depend on the dimensions of the owner of the house and can be chosen to suit your taste. It is irrational to make the podium smaller than 90x90 cm.
To construct the podium you will need the following materials:
- waterproofing film or mastic;
- sheets of polystyrene foam 5 cm thick;
- cement, sand and crushed stone for screed, brick if necessary;
- shower drain and sewer pipes;
- finishing material (tiles, mosaics, etc.).
Clear selected location from old screed to the concrete floor. Apply a layer of mastic so that the isolated area is larger than the area of the planned podium by at least 10 cm around the perimeter. Adjacent walls should be evenly covered with mastic to a height of at least 15 cm.
Install and connect new pipes to the sewer system. When carrying out communications, it is necessary to take into account that the angle of inclination of the pipes should be 2-3° with a decrease towards the riser or waste pipe. Install a drain assembly with a siphon and grate, connect it to a new pipe. Check the operation of the drain and eliminate defects.
The next stage of construction will be the formation of a multi-layer floor, as a result of which the podium will be raised, and communications will be hidden in the thickness of the new architectural element. The basis of the shower stall is formed as follows:
Making a podium is advisable in large bathrooms, where there is room for a raised section of the floor. Most often, in city apartments, the bathroom has a very small area, where an extra “step” can interfere with installation washing machine, plumbing or the movement of the owners themselves. In this case, it is better to prefer the option without a podium.
How to make a drain in the bathroom floor?
A very convenient option for small bathrooms is a shower, which is limited only by temporary walls made of plastic curtains. When no one is using the shower, the corner occupied by it provides more space in the bathroom. To carry out hygiene procedures, it is enough to close the curtains. Even in large bathrooms, discreet showers are becoming increasingly popular. It is convenient and beautiful, although it requires material costs and pouring work concrete screed throughout the entire space of the bathroom.
The principles of constructing a shower without a podium are no different from constructing one on a raised area of the floor. The first step should be reliable waterproofing of the base, cleared of the old coating and screed. Unlike the installation of a podium, the entire area of the bathroom will have to be insulated and bottom part walls of the room. The shower drain must be installed in a place convenient for the owners. Usually this is the far corner of the room: there the booth will not interfere with walking.
The drain is assembled and connected in the same way as for the podium. Once it is installed, you can determine the height to which the floor level will rise and install the connections to the sewer system for other bathroom fixtures. Then everything happens in the same way as indicated for the installation of the podium: EPS slabs, concrete screed, waterproofing and screed again.
The last layer of screed is formed with an inclination towards the drain hole. There can be many options for making an inclined floor:
- four-sided;
- smooth circular, cup-shaped;
- double-sided (if the drain is in the very corner);
- semicircular or in the form of a sector;
- one-sided (convenient if ladder-trays with a length of more than 1 m are used).
Lay tiles on top of the screed and carefully.
After the floor installation work is completed, you can install plumbing fittings: mixer taps, a shower hose with a watering can or other spout systems (mountain waterfall, cascade, rain). To prevent water from splashing all over the bathroom, install a glass fence around the cubicle or hang protective plastic curtains.
How to make a fence?
If the bathroom is large, then the shower stall is enclosed with stationary walls made of brick or glass even before the flooring begins. In this case, you may not even need to install a door, because there is enough space inside the cabin so that splashes do not fly out. But in a small bathroom, every centimeter of space is accounted for, so it’s better to make the wall sliding. The simplest option is a curtain.
This type of fence can be removed when the booth is not in use by simply sliding it against the wall. To hang the curtain you need to install brackets with a rod. There are different models these hangers. What they have in common is that the support brackets are attached to the walls in the right places, and a straight or curved rod is placed between them.
More difficult option can be considered installation glass walls and doors. These devices can be purchased ready-made or made to order. As a rule, plastic or metal profiles are provided for mounting them on the floor and ceiling. They must be installed and secured as recommended by the manufacturer. Typically, the profiles are also runners for moving the sliding cabin door. After the frame is completely assembled, you can glaze the booth and hang the door.
Choosing independent device shower without installing a tray, you can make a stall of the shape and size that will be convenient for the owners. At large selection accessories and finishing materials this structure will turn out to be no less aesthetically pleasing than expensive models of purchased plumbing fixtures.
Video instructions