Methods for planting walnuts in a personal plot. A walnut is like a tree in a country house. Is it possible to plant a walnut?

Walnuts are an excellent means of preventing many diseases. Therefore it market value is quite high, many will not be able to purchase it constantly for financial reasons. However, almost no one thinks about growing walnuts at home. How to plant a walnut seedling at home in a pot in the fall with your own hands? You can find out more in this article.

As they say in one wise saying - start from the very beginning! In order for the venture with your own walnut tree to be doomed to success, you must purchase a seedling or walnut that has not been thermally treated. That is green walnut should not be dried. Such fruits are quite difficult to find, although in the fall at the end of September, when a new crop of walnuts ripens, such a fruit can be found. The choice of fruit should be taken seriously and before purchasing, carefully inspect it for damage on all sides.

Although, if you plant it at home in an apartment or private house in a pot, then such a fruit will probably sprout and be all year round delight guests with your appearance. However, such a tree will only have a decorative role. Therefore, plant walnut It’s quite easy to plant in a pot in the fall, but don’t count on such a tree to bear fruit right in your apartment.

If you are seriously thinking about growing a large and strong tree at home with your own hands, then you need to purchase a seedling that matches your region of residence. After all, southern varieties will probably freeze in the harsh climate of the central zone of our country, and northern varieties will die in the stuffy climate of the southern regions.

Stratification

In order to prepare the fruits for planting in the soil, you need to select a specific container for them, fill it with sand and put it in a cool and dark place. The most comfortable storage temperature for such a container with fruit is from zero to +5 degrees Celsius. A cellar is ideal for this. But in the cellar the temperature can change, so at home the best option the fruit will be stored in a refrigerator. Several times a month, the container with sand and fruit needs to be taken out, ventilated and moistened. In total, it is necessary to keep the fetus in this state for about 12-16 weeks. After this time, the seeds should be planted in open ground.

Preparing for sowing

In order for fruits to germinate faster, they need to be cleared of the pericarp. This procedure is not mandatory, but this way the sprouts germinate much faster and have a healthier appearance. appearance. However, great care must be taken when cleaning, because a damaged sprout may grow into a tree with defects or not grow at all. After this, the fruits must be placed in a container filled with water. Selection best fruits should be based on which fruits remained on the surface and which fruits went to the bottom. You are guaranteed to be able to get good seedlings from those that remain at the bottom.

How to plant seeds in spring? It is necessary to plant in April, and before planting, dry the seeds in the sun for several days, then dry the seeds in the shade for several days. Pay attention to the fact that the seeds are forced to dry household appliances or on heating radiators is strictly prohibited! If you plant seeds in the fall, then no additional operations are required; the sprouts will most likely sprout next spring.

Determining the landing site

Since the walnut has a developed root system, then it should be planted in soil of moderate moisture. It is also necessary to pay attention to the planting depth and flow groundwater. In addition, seeds must be planted far from ground-based buildings such as a bathhouse or barn. Ideal option will become loamy soil, strengthened with fertilizers. This requires a hole approximately 80-120 centimeters deep, filled with manure mixed with half a bucket of crushed and sifted ash.

When planting in the fall, the walnut seeds themselves must be placed at a depth of 10 or 20 centimeters. The nut should not be placed with its point up, since even if planted in the fall, the future tree will begin to bear fruit much later. Therefore, the fruit is placed with its tip parallel to the soil level, and up to five fruits can be placed in one hole.

There are two ways to plant walnuts: using seeds and seedlings. You need to familiarize yourself with both of them in detail to understand which is better. If you are interested in the method of planting a walnut from a fruit, you need to understand that this is not the easiest procedure. Planting a nut from a seedling is much easier.

Planting seedlings

Before planting a future tree on your site, you should purchase a seedling. This can be done by visiting specialized sales points, and you can also get hold of young shoots from your friends. It is important to understand how to plant walnuts correctly.

You need to follow the rules to help you understand how to plant a nut. If you ignore these recommendations, the walnut may simply not grow. Rules for choosing a seedling:

its bark should be examined - there should be no damage to it;
then pay attention to the root of the seedling: its central rod should also be free of any mechanical damage;
the tree must be 2-3 years old;
the seedling must have a trunk thickness of at least 1 cm.

Only such a plant can quickly take root and not get sick.

Gardeners do not have the same opinion about the best season to plant. Some say that this should be done exclusively in the fall, since sap flow slows down during this period. Others say that spring is best time for planting trees. There is also an opinion that this must be done before the buds swell on the trees.

Description of the eucalyptus tree, where it grows and how to grow the plant

Since there is no consensus on this issue, you should focus on the climate in your region. For example, for southern regions with a warm climate, it is suitable autumn planting. And for the northern regions, the most acceptable option would be to plant seedlings in the spring.

This is because short autumn and cold winter can destroy a weak tree. For residents of the middle zone, both options may be suitable.

All that remains is to figure out how to plant a nut. To plant seedlings, you need:

Growing a tree from seeds

This is quite a troublesome, but interesting event. First you need to choose the material for planting. These should be nuts with a medium hard shell. It is necessary to inspect the shell for mechanical damage.

You need to find out how to plant a walnut from a fruit so that it grows and pleases you with fruits in the future. Planting seeds in the ground can be done in several ways:

Plant nuts in special pots. And after you get full-fledged seedlings, plant them for permanent residence.
Plant the seeds directly into the soil.

If you chose the first method, then you need to do the following:

If you choose the second method, then you need to plant the seeds in the ground, 3 in one hole. The distance between us is 12−15 cm. This method provides best germination. And during transplantation to a permanent place of residence, you can choose the strongest one.

Soil preparation

Everyone knows the fact that to get strong and healthy trees There are several factors to consider. This is the right location and soil preparation. There are a few important rules to remember:

For the nut you should choose sunny place, which warms up well in the spring.
There should not be a tree near the future big trees and large shrubs. The proximity of the nut to small bushes, for example, raspberries and gooseberries, is allowed. Interval between large plants must be more than 10 m.

Many useful properties walnuts make it possible to use the fruits and other resources of this tree in various industries. A nut can be planted and grown even as a garden decoration.

Walnut seedlings are the best way to grow this tree

Walnut seedlings are often used for tree planting, which are important to choose correctly. Some of the work on planting a seedling and caring for it is done in the fall, some of it in the spring.

Why is it better to propagate nuts using seedlings?

Planting a nut can be done using fruits and seedlings. A gardener has the right to decide how to plant nuts for his plot, because each method of planting a tree has its own pros and cons.

Planting walnuts using seedlings has the following differences:

a higher probability that the tree will take root, since it is formed;
fruiting begins earlier;
big harvest with correct landing seedling;
A walnut seedling is more expensive than the fruit.

When growing a nut from a seedling, it is worth contacting those gardeners who have been growing young trees for quite a long time and can provide the buyer with the desired variety of nut.

A faster onset of fruiting and a high probability of cuttings taking root make this method of planting a plant more profitable than planting tree nuts.

When planting seedlings you can get a good harvest

Rules for choosing a seedling

There are several options for how to properly plant and grow a walnut. First you need to choose the right walnut seedlings. Many novice gardeners make a number of mistakes that negatively affect the survival rate of the tree and its subsequent growth and development.

Buy seedlings for planting and growing in the middle zone from specialists. A seedling purchased on the market may have a damaged root system. Experts know how to group the soil so that the roots of the seedling are not damaged or dry out during movement.

When choosing seedlings for planting, adhere to the following recommendations:

To plant a walnut seedling and grow it into a mighty tree, choose seedlings with a well-developed root system. If a tree has a developed trunk but weak roots, it is unlikely to take root due to disrupted vegetation processes.
Do not buy seedlings that have leaf cover. They have a low survival rate. When disembarking at open ground For seedlings, most of the trunk is cut off, and as a result, the height of the seedling does not exceed 25–30 cm.
Pay attention to the condition of the seedling's roots. Traces that resemble rotting or drying out indicate that the plant is affected by disease or pests. The probability that such a seedling will take root and bear fruit is zero.

If you want to propagate walnuts on your property, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each variety of this tree. In order for planting and caring for a tree to produce results, it is worth choosing a seedling of a variety that is unpretentious to the conditions and resistant. Before planting a walnut, it is worth calculating its location taking into account the further growth of the tree.

Before planting seedlings, you should determine the optimal location for the future tree.

There are a number of walnut tree varieties that gardeners call the most unpretentious. Widespread in the middle zone for this reason the following varieties were obtained:

Chandler;
Giant;
Ideal;
Harvest;
Dessert;
Abundant.

Having carefully studied the characteristics of each variety and the requirements for tree care, the gardener can make the final choice, purchase the seedling he needs and plant it.

Planting a seedling

Many novice gardeners can rack their brains for a long time about how to plant a walnut using walnut seedlings. The landing procedure is quite simple to perform. The main thing is to remember a few key recommendations and follow them when planting purchased seedlings in the soil.

This fruit-bearing tree does not like groundwater, which can flow a short distance from the surface. It is worth considering that the nut does not like cramped spaces, so it is important to maintain a distance of 5 m between young seedlings. When planting in soil on a gentle slope, the distance can be reduced to 4 m.

Manure is suitable as fertilizer when planting nuts

Prepare the soil in which the tree will be planted in advance. If the soil is insufficiently fertile, it is recommended to replace it with a richer one or fertilize the existing one. The planting soil is fertilized according to the following algorithm:

Dig a hole 80 cm deep and remove all the soil from it.
Spread the extracted soil separately in a thin layer.
Sprinkle a mixture of ash and manure on top of the soil. The mixing ratio is 10 to 1 (1 part manure to 10 parts ash), the mixture can be diluted with phosphates.
Thoroughly mix all components of the fertilizer to ensure even distribution over the soil.
Fill the hole with a mixture of fertilizers and soil.

There is no need to compact the soil too much. Such feeding of the plant must be carried out not only before planting the nut, but also every year. Fertilizers are added to the top layer of soil. It is necessary to fertilize an area corresponding to the width of the tree crown.

After fertilizing the soil, the seedlings are placed in depressions measuring 40x40 cm. Remove all the soil from the hole and cover the bottom with film. The walnut root system develops in a horizontal direction; the film will stimulate growth in the desired direction.

Carefully, without haste, spread the lower level of the seedling's roots over the hole, cover them with a layer of soil, and then lay out the next level of roots. Such manipulations must be carried out with all levels of the roots of the seedling. As a result, the upper part of the root system should be at a depth of 7 cm from the surface level.

Grafting a seedling

Grafting a seedling is one of the mandatory steps when growing walnut trees. This allows the gardener to preserve the special properties of the variety. Typically, trees that are 2 years old are grafted. In late autumn or December, the tree is transplanted from open ground into another container, which is brought indoors, which allows the plant to adapt to favorable conditions and prepare for vaccination, which is carried out in February.

A cutting of the mother tree up to one year old is selected as a scion. It is recommended to harvest it in late autumn. The vaccination is carried out exactly the same as for others fruit trees. After this, the plant is kept in the house at an air temperature of 25 °C, and only in the spring, in May, is it transplanted again into open ground. From February to May, the scion takes root with the seedling, preserving the characteristics of the variety and accelerating the onset of fruiting. Grafted plants begin to bear fruit 1–2 years earlier than those that were not grafted.

Walnut seedlings must be grafted

How to care for seedlings

Walnut is an unpretentious plant, but young trees still need care. The main support for a seedling is regular watering. During dry summer periods, watering is necessary twice a month. The volume of water is calculated from the area over which the tree crown has grown. For 1 sq. meter of soil area consumes 3 buckets of liquid.

Twice a year it is necessary to fertilize the seedling. According to many recommendations, it is better to do it in spring and autumn.

There is no need to trim tree branches at all. One of the properties of this tree is that it independently gets rid of those branches that it no longer needs. You can remove them from the site already in the middle of the summer season.

Tree walnut (lat. Juglans regia)– a species of the genus Walnut of the Walnut family. Otherwise, this nut is called Voloshsky, royal or Greek. IN wildlife The walnut grows in western Transcaucasia, northern China, the Tien Shan, northern India, Greece and Asia Minor. Individual specimens of the plant are found even in Norway. But the largest natural hazel trees are located in the south of Kyrgyzstan. Iran is considered the birthplace of the walnut, although it has been suggested that it may have Chinese, Indian or Japanese origin. The first mentions of walnuts in historical documents date back to the 7th-5th centuries BC: Pliny writes that the Greeks brought this crop from the gardens of Cyrus, king of Persia.

From Greece the plant came to Rome under the name “walnut”, and then spread throughout France, Switzerland, Germany and Bulgaria. Walnuts were introduced to the American continent only at the beginning of the 19th century. The nut came to Ukraine from Moldova and Romania under the name “Voloshsky”.

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Planting and caring for walnuts

Landing: in areas with a cool climate - in the spring (before the start of sap flow); in the southern regions, autumn planting is preferable.
Lighting: bright sunlight.
Soil: any with pH 5.5-5.8.
Watering: regular, in summer - 2 times a month, using 3-4 buckets of water for each m² of tree trunk circle; watering is stopped in August. In dry autumn, moisture-recharging winter irrigation is carried out.
Feeding: Nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice: in spring and early summer, at the root, and potassium and phosphorus fertilizers - in the fall. For a season, one adult nut needs on average about 10 kg of superphosphate, 6 kg of ammonium nitrate, 3 kg of potassium salt and 10 kg of ammonium sulfate.
Trimming: sanitary and formative pruning - in the spring, before the start of sap flow, in the fall - sanitary.
Reproduction: seeds and grafting.
Pests: American white butterfly, codling moth, walnut warty mite, walnut moth and aphid.
Diseases: bacteriosis, marsoniosis (brown spot), root canker, bacterial burn.

Walnut - description

Walnut is a large tree, growing up to 25 meters in height; the walnut trunk reaches a girth of sometimes three and sometimes seven meters. Walnut bark gray, branches with leaves form an extensive crown. The leaves of the walnut, complex, imparipinnate, consisting of elongated leaflets 4 to 7 cm long, bloom at the same time as small, greenish flowers, pollinated by the wind - in May. On the same tree both male and female are revealed female flowers.

The walnut fruit is a single-seeded drupe with a thick leathery pericarp and a spherical stone with incomplete septa, which can be from two to five. Inside the shell is the edible walnut kernel. The weight of one fruit is from 5 to 17 g.

Greek walnut does not have high frost resistance - it freezes already at a temperature of -25-28 ºC. The walnut tree lives for 300-400 years, its wood, which belongs to valuable species, often used to make designer furniture. And textile dye is produced from walnut leaves. The main producing countries of valuable walnuts today are China, the USA, Türkiye, Iran and Ukraine.

We will tell you how to plant and care for walnuts, how to shape its crown, how to fertilize walnuts so that their yields are stable and consistently high, how to treat walnuts against pests and diseases, which varieties of walnuts are best grown in the garden and we will give you a lot of other interesting and useful information.

Planting a walnut

When to plant walnuts

Usually walnut seedlings are planted in the spring, but in the southern regions autumn planting is also possible. As long as there is a good drainage layer, any soil is suitable for walnuts. Clay soil can be improved by adding peat and compost. The place for planting the nut should be sunny, since this tree requires light, and in the shade the seedling will simply die. The highest productivity is achieved by trees growing alone in full sun. The walnut does not like areas with high groundwater levels, and the optimal soil pH for walnuts is pH 5.5-5.8.

Since male and female walnut flowers do not bloom at the same time, it is good if there are a couple of walnut trees of other varieties nearby, and they can even grow in neighboring gardens - the pollen is carried by the wind over a distance of 200-300 m.

Walnut seedlings are inspected before planting: rotten, diseased or dried roots and shoots are removed, after which the roots are dipped into a clay mash with the thickness of store-bought sour cream. In addition to water, the mash contains 1 part decomposed manure and 3 parts clay. You can add a growth stimulator to the mash - Humate or Epin.

How to plant walnuts in spring

The walnut pit is prepared in the fall. Since young tree at first it does not have a powerful root system, the main source of nutrition for it will be soil one meter in diameter from the nut, which is why it is so important to create optimal conditions for its growth and development.

The size of the nut pit is determined by the composition of the soil. On fertile soils, a hole with a depth and a diameter of 60 cm will be sufficient; on less fertile soils The depth and diameter of the hole should be greater - within 1 m. Place the fertile soil taken out of the hole from the top layer in one direction, and the infertile soil from the bottom layer in the other - you will not need it for planting walnuts. Mix the top layer of soil with peat and humus (or compost) in equal proportions, but under no circumstances use fresh organic matter to enrich the soil.

Add 2.5 kg of superphosphate, 800 g of potassium chloride, 750 g of dolomite flour and one and a half kilograms of wood ash to the soil mixture, thoroughly mix all the ingredients with the soil. This amount of fertilizer mixed with the fertile soil layer will be enough for the tree to last for the first 3-5 years of its life, during which the walnut will develop a powerful root system capable of independently obtaining nutrients.

Fill the hole to the top with the prepared soil mixture and pour one and a half to two buckets of water into it. On this autumn preparation The walnut pits are completed.

Over the winter, the soil in the hole will settle and become compacted, and in the spring, when it’s time to plant the nut, remove the soil mixture from the hole, drive a support stake 3 m high into the center of the bottom, pour a hill around it from the same soil mixture of such a height that the root collar of the planted the mound of the seedling was 3-5 cm above the surface of the site. Fill the hole with the remaining soil mixture, compact the surface and pour 20-30 liters of water under the seedling.

When the water is absorbed, the soil settles, and the root collar of the seedling is at the level of the surface of the site, tie the tree to a support and mulch its trunk circle with a layer of peat, sawdust or straw 2-3 cm thick. At a distance of 30-50 cm from the trunk, form humus and earth in a ratio of 1:3, a roller 15 cm high to collect rainwater.

Planting walnuts in autumn

Autumn planting of walnuts is not much different from spring planting. The only difference is that the pit is prepared not six months before, but two to three weeks before planting. And we remind you: autumn planting of walnuts is permissible only in the southern regions, where there are no frosty winters.

Walnut care in spring

How to grow walnuts in the garden and how to properly care for walnuts? Garden work begins early spring. In the third ten days of March, if the air temperature does not drop below -4-5 ºC, sanitary and formative pruning of the walnut can be carried out. If weather conditions do not allow pruning to be carried out at this time, postpone it to a later time, but you need to have time to trim the nut before the sap begins to flow.

Walnuts need moisture in spring. In April, if there was little snow in the winter and there was no rain in the spring, carry out water-recharging watering of the tree. Clean its trunk and skeletal branches from dead bark, rinse them with a three percent solution copper sulfate and refresh the whitewash of the walnut trunk, which has faded over the winter, with lime. At the same time, preventive treatment of trees against diseases and pests is carried out and seedlings are planted.

In May it is time to apply fertilizer. How to feed walnuts? An adult tree needs about 6 kg of ammonium nitrate per year, which is best applied in spring and early summer. This applies to trees older than 3 years - the fertilizers placed in the hole during planting should be enough for the plant to last at least three years.

Walnut care in summer

In hot and especially dry summers, the need for walnuts for watering increases. From May to July inclusive, the tree trunk circle of the nut is moistened twice a month without subsequent loosening of the soil, since the nut does not like this. But weeds need to be controlled. In summer, a walnut can suffer from fungal diseases and harmful insects, so it is very important to inspect the tree daily so as not to miss the onset of a disease or the appearance of pests, and if danger arises, the walnut should be treated with an appropriate preparation - an insecticide or fungicide.

At the end of July, pinch the tops of those shoots whose growth you want to accelerate - the shoots must have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather, otherwise in winter they will die from frostbite. Foliar fertilize the nut with phosphate and potassium fertilizers with the addition of microelements. Some walnut varieties ripen as early as late August, in which case you should be ready to harvest.

Walnut care in autumn

Autumn is the time to harvest walnuts. Depending on the variety, nuts ripen from late August to late October. When the harvest is over, it is necessary to restore order in the garden: carry out sanitary pruning of the walnut after the leaf fall, rake up fallen leaves and cuttings of shoots, treat the trees against pests and pathogens that have settled in the walnut bark for the winter and in the soil under the tree, whitewash the trunk and the base of the skeletal branches with lime. Saplings and young trees must be prepared for winter.

Walnut processing

To prevent walnuts from being attacked by pests or infected with diseases, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment twice a year. When and how to process walnuts? Spring treatment is carried out early, on still dormant buds - the walnut and the soil around the tree trunk are sprayed with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate. Autumn processing walnuts are treated with the same preparations after leaf fall, when the trees go into a dormant period.

Many gardeners, instead of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate, use a seven percent urea solution for treatment, which is also a fungicide, insecticide and nitrogen fertilizer. It is better to treat trees with urea in the spring, when the nut needs nitrogen.

Watering a walnut

Growing walnuts requires regular watering. This is a moisture-loving plant, but if it rains from time to time in spring and summer, you don’t have to water the nut. In hot and dry seasons, it is necessary to water the nut twice a month from May to the end of July, spending 3-4 buckets of water for each m² of tree trunk circle. From the beginning of August, watering should be stopped. If there is no rain in the fall, carry out pre-winter moisture-recharging watering of the walnut to make it easier for it to survive the winter.

Walnut feeding

The walnut root system does not like loosening, so mineral fertilizer complexes must be applied with great care. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring and early summer, since they contribute to the infection of nuts with fungal diseases during the fruiting period. Phosphates and potassium fertilizers are well accepted by the crop; it is best to apply them to the soil around the tree trunk in the fall. In total, a fruiting walnut during the growing season needs 10 kg of superphosphate, 3 kg of potassium salt, 10 kg of ammonium sulfate and 6 kg of ammonium nitrate.

You can also use green manure as fertilizers - lupine, peas, oats or china, which are sown in the hazel rows at the end of summer and plowed into the soil in the fall.

Walnut wintering

Since the nut is a heat-loving crop, some of its varieties can grow only in areas where there are no cold winters. However, there are varieties that can withstand short frosts down to -30 ºC. Adult plants overwinter without shelter, but seedlings and one-year-old trees must be wrapped in burlap, and their trunk circles, retreating 10 cm from the tree trunk, must be mulched for the winter with manure.

Walnut trimming

When to trim a walnut

In the spring, in March or April, when the air in the garden has already warmed up to above-zero temperatures, but sap flow has not yet begun, sanitary and formative pruning of walnuts is carried out. Some gardeners prefer to prune nuts in the second half of summer, since in early spring it is difficult to determine which shoot is too weak or frostbitten. Walnuts are pruned in the fall for sanitary purposes so that the plant does not feed on diseased, drying and broken branches and shoots in the winter.

How to trim a walnut

If the nut crown is not formed, it may develop symptoms over time. major defects– breakable forks with sharp corners, too long branches that have few lateral branches, fruit-bearing shoots dying due to thickening of the crown and many other troubles. Shaping the walnut increases the quality and quantity of the fruit and regulates the growth of the tree, making it easier to care for.

To carry out pruning - sanitary or formative - use sterile and sharp knife or a secateurs that makes the cuts smooth, without burrs. The nut is pruned for the first time when the tree reaches a height of 1.5 m. The tree’s standard should be 80-90 cm, and the crown – 50-60 cm. When forming the crown, no more than 10 skeletal branches are left on the tree, the shoots are shortened by 20 cm, and The trunk is regularly cleared of growth. In order to lay the skeleton of the crown, you will need three to four years, but as soon as it is formed, all you have to do is remove the fattening, competing and thickening shoots of the crown.

Walnut pruning in spring

In the spring, as soon as the weather permits, carry out sanitary pruning of the nut, removing all frostbitten, diseased, dry and improperly growing branches and shoots. Treat sections thicker than 7 mm with garden varnish. Simultaneously with sanitary pruning, formative pruning of the walnut is carried out.

If a tree has not been properly cared for for a long time, over time fruiting shifts to the periphery - fruits are formed only in the upper parts of the crown. To correct this, it is necessary to carry out rejuvenating pruning of the walnut.

In early spring, skeletal branches located too high are cut down, after which the tree crown is greatly thinned out to ensure the penetration of air and light into it. Branches are cut off at the points of lateral branches in order to direct their development not upward, but to the sides. The influx of tree sap will eventually cause the awakening of the buds, which will produce new shoots, from which the crown will form.

Pruning walnuts in autumn

During harvesting, sometimes a walnut branch breaks or shoots accidentally break off. Some shoots may be affected by disease or pests, therefore, after leaf fall, it is advisable to carry out sanitary pruning of diseased, broken, improperly growing and drying shoots so that the tree does not waste food on them in winter. Thick sections after trimming are treated with garden varnish.

Walnut propagation

How to propagate walnuts

Walnuts are propagated by seeds and vegetatively by grafting. In order to graft a varietal cutting, you have to grow a rootstock from seeds, so we will describe to you both methods of propagating walnuts.

Propagation of walnuts by seeds

Growing walnuts from seeds is a long-term prospect. It is advisable to obtain seeds from healthy, productive trees growing in your area. Choose large fruits with an easily extractable kernel. The maturity of the kernel is determined by the state of the pericarp - pericarp. If the pericarp is cracked or can be easily separated by making an incision, then the kernel is ripe. The nuts are freed from the pericarp, dried for a week in the sun, and then transferred to a room where they are dried at a temperature of 18-20 ºC. You can plant nuts this fall, or next spring, but then they need to be stratified.

Thick-skinned nuts stratify for 90-100 days at temperatures from 0 to 7 ºC, and varieties with medium-thick shells and thin-skinned ones last a month and a half at temperatures of 15-18 ºC. In order for stratified nuts to germinate faster, they are kept in damp sand at a temperature of 15-18 ºC until they sprout, and then they are sown: those that sprout are sown less often, those that do not have time to sprout are thicker. Walnut fruits are sown when the soil warms up to 10 ºC. The distance between seeds in a row is 10-15 cm, between rows - 50 cm. Medium-sized nuts are planted in the soil to a depth of 8-9 cm, and those that are larger - 10-11 cm.

Shoots begin to appear by the end of April. As a rule, 70% of stratified nuts germinate. When the seedlings have two true leaves, they are planted in a schoolhouse, pinching the tip of the central root. In the school garden, seedlings grow slowly - in order to grow a rootstock, you will need 2-3 years, and for a full-fledged seedling to grow, which can be transplanted into the garden, you will have to wait 5-7 years. You can speed up the process if you grow seedlings not in open ground, but in a greenhouse - under a film covering, the rootstock grows in a year, and the seedling in two years.

Walnut propagation by grafting

Walnut grafting is carried out using the budding method, but since the buds of this tree are quite large, the shield cut from the scion cutting and inserted under the bark of the rootstock must be large so that it can provide the eye with water and nutrients.

The problem is that even in normal winters, almost all the buds that have taken root in the fall die in the cold due to the insufficient winter hardiness of the crop, so the budding seedlings must be dug up after the leaves fall and stored until spring in the basement at a temperature of about 0 ºC. In the spring, when the soil warms up to 10 ºC, the seedlings are planted in the nursery. By the end of the growing season, they can reach a height of 100-150 cm, and they can be planted in a permanent place.

Walnut diseases

Walnut is quite resistant to both diseases and pests, but errors in care and failure to follow agricultural practices can lead to the tree becoming sick. Most often, walnuts are affected by:

Bacteriosis, which appears as black spots on the leaves of the plant, causing them to become deformed and fall off. Fruits damaged by the disease lose quality and, as a rule, fall before they ripen. Thick-shelled varieties suffer less from bacteriosis. Provoke the development of the disease rainy weather and nitrogen fertilizers. To cope with the disease, treat the tree before flowering with copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture or other fungicide in two stages. In autumn, do not forget to rake and remove fallen nut leaves from the area;

Brown spot, or marsoniosis, looks like brownish spots, which spread over the entire leaf as the disease progresses. As a result, the foliage affected by the disease dries and falls prematurely. Fruits affected by spotting that do not have time to ripen also fall off. The disease progresses in damp weather. Affected leaves and shoots must be removed from the tree before the disease spreads throughout the entire nut. Review the moisture regime - perhaps you are watering the nut too often.

Treatment of walnuts for spotting is carried out with Vectra (2-3 ml per 10 liters of water) and Strobi (4 g per 10 liters of water). The first treatment is carried out as soon as the buds begin to bloom on the tree, the second time the nut is sprayed in the summer;

Root cancer affects the root system of walnuts. The causative agent of the disease penetrates the roots through cracks in the bark and wounds, forming convex growths. If the disease enters into full force, the tree may stop growing and bearing fruit, and in the most serious cases, the walnut dries out and dies. Growths on the tree must be opened, cleaned and treated with a one percent solution of caustic soda, after which the wounds must be washed running water from a hose;

Bacterial burn affects leaves, flowers, buds, earrings and shoots of walnut. First, reddish-brown spots appear on the young leaves of the plant, and depressed black girdle spots appear on the shoots, leading to their death. The leaves and buds of male nut inflorescences darken and die. The pericarps also become covered with black spots. The most severe outbreaks of the disease are caused by prolonged rains. Infected parts of the plant must be cut out and burned, and the wounds must be treated with a one percent solution of copper sulfate. The plant is sprayed with copper-containing preparations.

Walnut pests

Among the pests, walnuts can be affected by the American white butterfly, apple moth, walnut warty mite, walnut moth and aphid.

American white butterfly- one of the most dangerous insects, damaging almost everything fruit crops. During the growing season, it develops in two or three generations: the first generation carries out its destructive activity in July-August, the second in August and September, and the third in September and October. American butterfly caterpillars settle on the leaves and shoots of the walnut and quickly eat all its foliage.

To destroy the pest, it is necessary to burn the places where pupae and caterpillars accumulate, and then treat the tree with one of the microbiological preparations - Lepidocide (25 g per 10 l of water), Bitoxibacillin (50 g per 10 l of water) or Dendrobacillin (30 g per 10 l of water) . The solution consumption is approximately 2-4 liters per tree. But in no case should treatment be carried out during the flowering period.

Walnut warty mite damages mainly young foliage without touching the fruits, and most often it appears on walnuts during high humidity air. You can determine that a nut is occupied by a mite by the dark brown tubercles that appear on the leaves of the plant. Since the mite is an arachnid insect, you can get rid of it with an acaricide - Aktara, Akarin or Kleschevit, for example.

Apple, she's the same nut moth It does not eat the leaves, like other pests, but the fruits of the nut, penetrating inside and eating away at the kernel, causing the fruits to fall off prematurely. During the growing season, it gives two generations: the first harms the nut in May and June, the second in August and September. To prevent codling moths from reproducing, pheromone traps are attached to trees to attract male codling moths. In addition, be sure to collect fallen nuts and destroy moth nests found on trees.

Nut moth lays “mines” in nut leaves - its caterpillars feed on the juicy pulp of the leaves from the inside without damaging the skin. You can determine that a tree is affected by moths by the presence of dark tubercles on the leaves. The nut moth is destroyed by treating the wood with Lepidocide, and in case of total damage, pyrethroids are used - Decis, Decamethrin.

Aphid ubiquitous, it can harm any plant, but the main danger is that it carries viral diseases for which there is no cure. There is no point in using it on an aphid-infested nut. folk remedies, immediately resort to radical measures - treating the wood with Actellik, Antitlin or Biotlin.

Walnut varieties

Today there are many varieties of walnuts that have developed resistance to diseases, pests, frost and drought. Many of them are productive, and their fruits are different high quality. According to the timing of ripening, nut varieties are divided into early, ripening in late August or early September, mid-ripening, whose fruits become ripe from mid to late September, and late, which are harvested in late September or early October. Scientists are engaged in walnut selection different countries– varieties of Ukrainian, Russian, Moldavian, American and Belarusian selection are known.

We bring to your attention a description the best varieties, among which you will certainly be able to choose a walnut that will bear fruit in the garden for many decades for you, your children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren.

Skinossky

Winter-hardy and productive early variety Moldovan selection, in the years since high humidity air affected by brown spotting. Its fruits are large, weighing up to 12 g, ovoid, with a shell of medium thickness and a large kernel that is easily separated from the shell.

Codrene

A productive and winter-hardy late Moldavian variety, resistant to pests and marsonia, with large nuts in a thin, almost smooth shell that easily splits and releases the kernel whole or in halves.

Lunguetse

Frost-resistant and brown spot-resistant variety of Moldavian selection with large nuts of oblong-oval shape with a smooth, thin, easily cracked shell and a kernel that can be completely removed from the shell.

In addition to those described, to known varieties walnuts of Moldavian selection include Kalarashsky, Korzheutsky, Kostyuzhinsky, Chisinau, Peschansky, Rechensky, Kogylnichanu, Kazaku, Brichansky, Falesti, Yargarinsky and others.

Bukovinsky 1 and Bukovinsky 2

Mid-season and late productive varieties Ukrainian selection, resistant to marsoniosis, with a relatively thin but strong, easily split shell and a completely detachable kernel.

Prykarpatsky

Consistently productive and relatively resistant to brown spot late variety Ukrainian selection with a thin but strong shell and a kernel that can be easily separated from it.

Transnistrian

A stable, high-yielding mid-season Ukrainian variety, characterized by frost resistance and a high degree of resistance to marsonia, with round, medium-sized fruits weighing from 11 to 13 g with a thin but strong shell, thin internal partitions that do not prevent the separation of the kernel.

Of the varieties bred in Ukraine, high quality fruits and resistance to unfavorable conditions Klyshkivsky, Bukovinsky Bomba, Toporivsky, Chernivtsi 1, Yarivsky and others are also noted.

Of the Californian varieties allocated to a special group, the most famous are:

Black California Walnut

A variety with very large fruits with an almost black shell, furrowed with convolutions;

Santa Rosa Soft Shell

A high-yielding, early-ripening Californian variety, known in two varieties: the first blooms simultaneously with all walnut trees, and the second - two weeks later, when spring frosts are behind us. The fruits of this variety are medium in size, enclosed in a thin white peel, the kernel is also white, and have excellent taste.

Royal

A high-yielding hybrid between California black walnut and black walnut from the Eastern United States, with large fruits in a thick and durable shell, which encloses kernels of high taste.

Paradox

Also a highly productive variety with large fruits in a very thick and strong shell with very tasty kernels.

Breeding work with these varieties has not stopped - scientists continue to try to obtain hybrids with thinner shells.

From Soviet and Russian varieties the most popular are:

Dessert– an early productive and drought-resistant variety, recommended for cultivation only in the southern regions, with sweetish, very tasty kernels;
Elegant– a drought-resistant variety, almost not affected by diseases and pests, with average frost resistance and nuts of a sweetish taste, medium size, weighing up to 12 g;
Aurora– a winter-hardy, disease-resistant, mid-season and early-ripening variety, the yield of which increases with age. Average fruit weight is 12 g.

Early ripening walnut varieties are included in a special category, for which characteristic features are the small height of the trees, early maturation fruits - in the second half of August or early September, entry into fruiting from the age of three and moderate frost resistance. The most famous of the early-fruiting varieties are:

Dawn of the East– a low-growing, productive tree, successfully grown in the middle zone;
Breeder– a productive and disease- and pest-resistant variety with low frost resistance. The fruits are medium-sized, weighing about 7 g.

The early-fruiting walnut varieties known in cultivation also include Pyatiletka, Lyubimy Petrosyan, Baikonur, Pinsky, Pelan, Sovkhozny and Pamyat Minova.

The best and most commonly grown varieties are:

Ideal– highly frost-resistant, the most productive of all walnut varieties, since it bears fruit twice during one growing season. Its fruits weigh from 10 to 15 g. The kernels have a pleasant sweetish taste. This variety reproduces only generatively, but its seeds inherit all parental characteristics;
Giant– a highly productive variety with regular fruiting. The weight of the fruits reaches no more than 10 g, but the advantage of the variety is that it can be grown almost throughout the entire territory of Russia.

Properties of walnuts - harm and benefits

Useful properties of walnuts

All parts of the plant contain biologically active substances. For example, the bark contains triterpenoids, alkaloids, steroids, tannins, quinones and vitamin C. Walnut leaves contain aldehydes, alkaloids, carotene, tannins, coumarins, flavonoids, anthocyanins, quinones, high aromatic hydrocarbons, phenolcarboxylic acids, vitamins C , PP and essential oil. And pericarp tissue includes vitamin C, carotene, tannins, coumarins, quinones, phenolcarboxylic and organic acids.

Vitamins C, B1, B2, PP, carotene and quinones are found in green fruits, and in ripe ones - the same set of vitamins, sitosterols, quinones, tannins and fatty oil, including linoleic, linolenic, oleic, palmitic acids, fiber, cobalt salts and iron.

The shell of walnuts contains phenolcarboxylic acids, coumarins, tannins, and the thin brown skin covering the fruit - the pellicle - contains steroids, coumarins, tannins and phenolcarboxylic acids.

The amount of vitamin C in the leaves of the plant increases throughout the season and reaches its maximum in July. But the main value of walnut leaves is large number carotene and vitamin B1, as well as the dye juglone, which also has a bactericidal effect, and tannins.

Ripe walnut fruits are not only a high-calorie food product, but also a highly active remedy. Their calorie content is twice that of premium wheat bread. They are recommended for use for the prevention of atherosclerosis and for lack of vitamins and iron and cobalt salts in the body. The oil and fiber contained in the fruit make it an excellent remedy for constipation.

The wound-healing effect of a decoction of walnut leaves is used to treat scrofula and rickets in children. An infusion of leaves is used to rinse the mouth for bleeding gums and inflammatory diseases of the oral cavity.

Walnut preparations have restorative, astringent, antisclerotic, anthelmintic, hypoglycemic, hemostatic, anti-inflammatory, laxative and epithelializing effects.

The most valuable of all preparations is walnut oil, which is highly nutritious and valuable. taste qualities. It is prescribed to patients during the recovery period after suffering serious illnesses and surgical operations. It contains unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, macro- and microelements, and biologically active substances. The record amount of vitamin E contained in the oil has a beneficial effect on older people, especially those who suffer from hypertension, coronary heart disease, atherosclerosis, diabetes mellitus, chronic hepatitis, increased acidity gastric juice, hyperfunction of the thyroid gland. In addition, walnut oil protects the human body from carcinogens, increases the body's resistance to radiation and removes radionuclides.

Walnut oil has long been used to treat tuberculosis, inflammatory diseases of the skin and mucous membranes, cracks, long-term non-healing ulcers, eczema, psoriasis, varicose veins veins and furunculosis.

Scientists at the University of California experimentally proved that after patients ate walnut oil for a month, the cholesterol level in their blood stopped growing and remained at the same level for several months. Walnut oil is prescribed for chronic arthritis, burns, ulcers, chronic colitis with constipation, diseases of the stomach and intestines. It is recommended for pregnant and nursing mothers.

Walnut - contraindications

The use of walnuts and preparations made from them is contraindicated for people with individual intolerance to the product. Patients with psoriasis, neurodermatitis and eczema should use walnuts or preparations made from them under the supervision of a doctor, since the product can cause an exacerbation of the disease in them. For people with diseases of the pancreas and intestines, as well as those with increased blood clotting, eating walnuts is contraindicated. Overeating the product can cause swelling of the throat, severe headaches and inflammation of the tonsils. Daily norm walnuts for healthy person– 100 g per day.

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To grow walnuts with large fruits, the shells of which are easily broken, and the grain is quickly cleaned, you need to prepare high-quality planting material, choose the right place for growing and plant it on time.

The first harvest from a tree can be harvested either 5 or 10 years after planting the fruits in the ground. This largely depends on the method and time of planting. It is best to grow nuts in special greenhouses.

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Description

The birthplace of the walnut is Central Asia. More than a thousand years ago it came to Russian territory. Gained popularity due to its nutritious, tasty fruits, medicinal properties green parts of the plant and valuable wood.

Nuts are long-lived plants. They can grow in one place for up to 300 years. Mature tree has a developed root system, and the crown reaches a radius of 5 m. Previously, the walnut was considered a southern plant, as evidenced by the name “walnut”. Nowadays, varieties with a large kernel and thin skin have been created that can be grown in Middle lane, in the Moscow region.

Frost-resistant varieties:

Ideal;
Juglandeae angulos with hard shell;
hybrid with gray or Manchurian walnut.

To properly plant a walnut, you need to decide on the growing method.

Walnut cultivation

To plant a walnut, you need to choose the right soil. To grow the crop you need fertile, well-drained soil. It grows well on moist carbonate loams. Do not plant on swampy and dense soils. If the soil on the site has a shallow fertile layer, replace it or apply fertilizer. Replacement is carried out gradually, starting from the pit. Add humus, wood ash (2 cups per bucket of humus), superphosphate. The wider the crown becomes, the larger the diameter of the cultivated layer.

The location is chosen so that in the future the walnut will not shade neighboring yards or interfere with surrounding buildings. As its roots grow, they can damage their foundation.

The distance between two nuts is left at least five meters. When planting on slopes, it can be reduced to 3.5 m.

In the first years of life, growing shrubs between trees is allowed. Nuts grow very slowly, currants and gooseberries will have time to grow old during this time, giving a certain number of harvests. But under an adult tree, the bushes do not bear fruit and grow poorly. Therefore, it is not worth planting viburnum, Chinese lemongrass, and actinidia under them.

Reproduction

The nut is propagated by seeds and cuttings. Seeds remain viable for one year. When grown in this way, the properties of the mother plants may not be transferred. But if you sow thin-walled, tasty fruits, the chance of getting just such a tree increases. Select ripe fruits that have fallen from the tree or knocked down during the mass harvest.

Sprouted nut fruit

Peel off the skin (pericarp). This will speed up the germination of fruits. For cleaning, use durable rubber gloves to protect your hands from the dark brown juice. The shell is not removed. It will protect the sprout from mechanical damage and the effects of low temperatures.

To select high-quality fruits, immerse them in a bucket of water. The heaviest and highest quality ones will drown. They are used for planting. If they are going to plant in the fall, the fruits are not dried. For spring planting You must first dry it a little, placing it away from heating devices.

Pit preparation

Prepare a hole 1 m deep. Mix the excavated soil with humus, mineral fertilizers and wood ash. They put it back in the hole. Then they dig a hole up to 20 cm deep. Place 3 fruits in it with the seam facing up. Then the sprout will grow vertically without bending. The distance between the fruits is about 25 cm. Cover with prepared soil and water. From the seedlings in the fall, the strongest is selected, the rest are removed.

When planted in spring, the fruits are stratified for at least three months. At the end of February, they are mixed with wet sand and kept at a temperature of 4 degrees. In May, stratified seeds are planted in prepared holes to a depth of 10 cm. After 10 days, seedlings appear. Over the summer they grow up to 15 cm. If you water the seedlings abundantly, they can grow taller, but their frost resistance will be lower.

Instead of conventional stratification, you can use germination in half-liter glasses at home. They pierce the bottom so that the water does not stagnate in the glasses. Fill them with soil. In November, you need to plant the fruits to a depth of 5 cm. Water and place glasses in the basement or on the balcony.

Growing nuts in pots

In February, they are brought into the apartment, watered and set for germination in a bright, warm place. After a few weeks, shoots appear. When they grow 10 cm, transplant them into a larger pot. Water so that the soil does not dry out. In April they begin to harden, taking them first to the balcony, and then to fresh air. In May, the seedlings reach 20 cm. The young tree is planted in the ground, in a pre-prepared hole. With this method of cultivation, maximum annual growth is achieved.

Transplanting seedlings

Dig up 2–5 year old seedlings, being careful not to damage them lateral roots. It will not be possible to remove the central root without damage, because by this time its length will reach about a meter. Therefore, it is cut at a depth of 40 cm. The cut is covered with clay.

Place the seedling so that the root collar is three centimeters above ground level. The upper roots are located 6 cm below the soil level. Straighten the roots and sprinkle with soil, filling the free gaps.

The assertion that a large stone needs to be installed under the main trunk is not confirmed. There is an opinion that a piece of polyethylene placed at the bottom of the pit will help enhance the formation of lateral roots. Compact the soil near the trunk and water it. Mulch with humus, peat or grass clippings.

When pruned in spring, the plant loses a lot of sap. If you need to cut branches, do it in the summer. First, remove it to a knot several centimeters long. The next year it dries out, so you can cut it in the spring. The cut site is treated with garden varnish.

Graft

You can only get a tree of the desired variety by grafting. Cuttings are prepared from young fruit-bearing trees. The rootstock is pre-grown seedlings aged 2–3 years. They can be grown in pots and grafted in February. For some time the plants are kept at a temperature of 24 degrees.

If it is not possible to graft a cutting, grafted seedlings are purchased. They begin to bear fruit at the age of eight. At good care The first fruits can appear even at 4 years old. In the spring, hardening is carried out, and in early May they are planted in the ground.