Cattleya orchid care at home, cultivation and propagation of photo species. Cattleya

Orchids have long been considered one of the most exquisite, beautiful, sophisticated flowers. Among all the diversity of the orchid world, Cattleya is considered the queen. Any florist, having seen her once, will fall in love once and for all. The variety of shades and shapes of Cattleya is amazing. But it’s not so easy to admire all this. To grow such an orchid at home, you need to try hard.

Cattleya was bred artificially. It was created by W. Catley, in whose honor the flower got its name. What does this orchid look like, how is it different? The main difference between Cattleya is that it is very unusual shape lips. The orchid also has an interesting color with contrasting tones. The flower is characterized by elongated pseudobulbs. They have thickenings in the middle.

During the flowering period, Cattleya produces up to 10 incredibly beautiful flowers, which are surrounded by thick leathery leaves. The shades of flowers can be varied - from dark purple to snow-white. Another feature of this species is its aroma. When flowering, Cattleya is surrounded by a wonderful smell, sometimes reminiscent of a lily or lilies of the valley, and sometimes unique, incomparable to anything else.

Types and varieties with photos

Today there are up to 40 species of Cattleya. They are divided into two large groups - epiphytes, which grow on other plants, and lithophytes, which grow on stones. Let's see what Cattleya varieties look like and what they are.

This is a fairly large representative. Its leaves have an oblong shape and grow up to 20 cm. A short peduncle can accommodate up to 2 dozen flowers reaching 10 cm in diameter. The shades are predominantly pink and purple, with dark veins. The lip has a light shade with dark purple and red veins inside, in the middle it is dark purple, and in front its surface is velvety and has a bright crimson color.

This species has many different hybrid forms of orchids that arose from crossing different varieties Cattleya. The basis of such hybrids is Cattleya lipped.

The peduncle of this variety grows up to 15 cm and bears few flowers. But each reaches 15 cm in diameter. The color of this variety is pink or purple, and the rather large lip has a large crimson spot in front and a pale yellow spot in the throat. The edges of the lips are curly, light pink shade.

Great view with fleshy leaves and a short peduncle. The flowers are small, there can be from 2 to 10 pieces, all of a bright orange hue. The lip has dark stripes in the center.

This is a miniature species, reaching only 8-12 cm. No more than 2 flowers appear on the peduncle, reaching 10 cm in diameter. The sepals have olive or light brown shades and dark spots. But the lip has bright shades– pink, dark purple, yellow, amethyst.

Olive or brownish sepals set off the bright orange, yellow color of the inside of the lip.

Cattleya triana

There are many more varieties that are popular among gardeners: Cattleya triana and bicolor, giant, etc. It is not worth describing each one, and it is clear that they all have their own unique features, beautiful shades, shapes and aromas. But finding out how to care for Cattleya varieties so that they bloom and please the eyes is simply necessary.

They include many secrets with which you can grow beautiful flower without special effort. Main problem when growing a flower - lack of flowering. Even experienced gardeners It is not always possible to please Cattleya so that she will delight you with her incomparable flowers and aroma. The thing is that only mature plants that have enough strength bloom. How do you know if your flower is ready for this? Very simple. It is important to know two things:

Has the orchid already bloomed before? For example, if you bought flowering plant and you have it completely alive, including the roots.
What condition are Cattleya roots in? They must be alive and have at least 4 bulbs, as well as traces of old peduncles.

Care

Cattleya needs the attention of its owner. It is demanding on lighting and air temperature, humidity and watering, and soil condition. In addition, during the dormant period, one should not forget about the orchid; it also needs proper care.

This is one of the vital factors for Cattleya. The flower constantly needs bright lighting. In the summer, do not be afraid to leave the orchid on the southern or southwestern windows. Even in direct sunlight, the plant can spend several hours a day, but this should be before noon or after lunch so that the sun still shines softly.

If you are in doubt whether your Cattleya has enough light, there is an easy way to check. Pay attention to the leaves. They should be a bright rich green color, shiny and healthy.

If the leaves turn yellow, we can talk about overheating of the orchid, and if the leaves become dull and darkened, the brightness of the lighting should be increased.

In winter, Cattleya has a time of rest. But this does not mean that you can reduce the amount of light. On the contrary, sometimes it is necessary to additionally illuminate the space using artificial sources. Fluorescent lamps will help ensure normal daylight hours, which will last from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

The second guarantee of health and flowering of Cattleya is warmth. When the plant is actively developing or blooming, the space should be heated to 20-25 0 C during daylight hours and at least to 17 0 at night. In winter, that is, during Cattleya's dormant period, it is necessary to maintain a constant temperature regime on par with 16-18 0 C during the day and approximately 15 0 C at night.

It cannot be said that the moisture requirement of modern hybrids is too great. Additional humidification is used only during warm periods of the year. Pallets with water in which the flowerpot is placed are best suited for this. As for watering itself, the most the right way determine its frequency - check the substrate.

Usually Cattleyas are watered no more than once every 1-1.5 weeks. Some experts recommend not pouring water on the plant, but keeping the root system directly in a container of water for a couple of hours. IN winter time We reduce watering; in summer, if necessary, we increase it. During the hot period, the orchid will not refuse spraying, but only quality water– rain or melt.

Home care for orchids also includes regular feeding and soil fertilization. It is best to introduce special substances during the period of active plant development. According to the recommendations of experts, mineral fertilizers are used in minimal quantities, according to the dosage from the manufacturers.

It is very important to remember that periods of fertilizing last during active growth of the plant and peduncle; they need to be stopped when active growth stops and flowering begins.

This event should be carried out for several reasons:

The bush has grown too much;
The roots do not fit, they are cramped in the pot;
The substrate has deteriorated and requires replacement.

When transplanting, choose only a transparent pot; it should have many holes. Mandatory drainage is done at the bottom. In the pot, Cattleya is placed slightly to the side; on the contrary, there should be enough space for the formation of a frontal pseudobulb. Then a support is placed for good straight growth of the flower. The soil should contain the following components:

Sphagnum moss;
Small pieces of pine bark;
Charcoal.

You can also purchase ready substrate, intended for epiphytic varieties of orchids.

Damaged leaves or roots are removed equally for all flowers, but the peduncle must be trimmed correctly. And here each variety has its own rules. To properly prune Cattleya, you need to wait until the flowers wither completely and the peduncle itself begins to change color to yellow. After this, you need to carefully examine the plant and find a non-flowering old bud on it. It grows vertically from the widest part of the orchid, this is the arrow.

It can be green or brown, its purpose is to protect the young plant during the flowering period. You can make sure that this arrow is old enough by opening it. There should be no healthy, young kidneys inside. In the place where the arrow and the stem meet, you need to cut off the plant, trying to do this near the very base. In this case, you should not touch the leaves or pseudobulb with a sharp object.

Caring for Cattleya: video

It is not difficult to carry out; as a rule, this procedure is combined with plant transplantation. Cattleya reproduces by division, approximately every 3-4 years. The orchid lump must be removed from the pot with care. For half an hour bottom part plants are lowered into a container of water. This will soak the substrate. Only after this can you carefully separate the roots with your fingers. To make this process easier, you can simply do it in water.

Clean roots must be thoroughly inspected, eliminating rotten, dry or damaged parts. By the way, by their presence you can determine whether watering is being done correctly: rot indicates excess moisture. All cuts are treated with cinnamon or crushed charcoal, but not with substances containing alcohol.

The bushes are divided in such a way that each part has at least 3 pseudobulbs and 1 living bud. There should be as many roots as possible. Only disinfected instruments are used, all sections are also processed. Next, the landing takes place according to the same scheme as the transfer.

Orchids are prone to producing babies on peduncles and stems. If such appear, you need to take special care of the “pregnant” Catleya, ensuring maximum comfortable conditions existence.

To propagate in this way, the sprout is separated with a knife and placed in a solution of a growth stimulator for a couple of hours. The roots must be no shorter than 5 cm. Then the plant is planted in the substrate and cared for, providing the necessary lighting, temperature, and humidity.

Reproduction of Cattleya: video

Among the pests that are dangerous for orchids are the oblong cushion plant, scale insects, and orchid aphids. Diseases also affect Cattleya, most often anthracnose, as well as black rot.

All damaged parts are cut out right down to the green part, dried, and then treated with charcoal and antifungal substances. The substrate needs to be replaced. It is important to find out the cause of the disease and eliminate it. Most often it lies in improper watering.

Cattleya without roots, dry roots - resuscitation

This problem is caused by an incorrect watering regime. The main task is to grow new roots. To do this, the plant is soaked in water daily for 1-2 hours in the pre-dinner time. Reanimation can last from 1 to 12 months. The plant is planted in the substrate after roots up to 5 cm long appear.

How to make Cattleya bloom

As already mentioned, the plant must be old enough, this is the first rule. The second is high-quality care, including all the necessary components.

Cattleya's leaves and bulbs have wrinkled

This condition indicates insufficient watering. It is necessary to restore the correct regime, bring the humidity back to normal.

The presence of dark spots on the leaves indicates that the plant is infected with fungi. It must be removed from the substrate, the rotten parts removed with a hardened instrument to remove healthy tissue. The sections are treated with charcoal, and you can fill them with paraffin or special glue on top.

Grow cattleya with pleasure, let it please you with its exquisite fragrant flowers!

Cattleya is a rather difficult orchid to grow. It requires not only constant attention, but also certain knowledge. Only with complete care favorable conditions it will be regularly covered with beautiful flowers.

Botanical description

The Cattleya genus belongs to the orchid family. By different sources, it has from 40 to 100 varieties. Among them there are epiphytes (grow on trees) and lithophytes (settle on rocks), but they all grow in tropical rainforests.

Cattleyas grow sympodially. New shoots grow from the base of the previous stem, and the old ones gradually die off - they are replaced. The growth point begins from the rhizome - a modified, thickened stem. Cattleya's aerial roots are quite thick, but fragile. They are covered with light spongy fabric - velomen. The bulbs are cylindrical or fusiform, elongated.

Cattleyas are divided into unifoliate and bifolia. In rare cases, three-leaf bulbs are found. The leaves are dense, fleshy, without petioles. The shape is elongated, oval, the color is light green. Characterized by a slight bend along the main vein.

The cattleya orchid begins to bloom only when it reaches a certain age. Each individual specimen is ready to flower at different times. The main sign of a plant that is ripe for the formation of a peduncle is the appearance of a small, leathery, flat sheath at the top of the bulb. After some time, a tall bare peduncle with one to three flowers grows from it. Flowering lasts almost a month. It was for the amazing beauty of the flowers that Cattleya was called the queen of orchids.

Cattleya flowers are zygomorphic (have only one plane of symmetry). The corolla is formed from three narrow sepals, a pair of wide petals, a lip and a column. In turn, the column is formed by a pistil and a style fused with the stamens. The lip is three-lobed, the column is long, slightly curved.

Natural Cattleya species have smaller flowers than hybrid varieties, but their aroma is stronger. All varieties form buds in autumn or winter and bloom for a month.

Popular types

In addition to natural species, breeders have bred more than 1000 hybrid varieties. Of these, four of the most popular varieties of Cattleya can be distinguished.

Two-color. The height of an adult plant does not exceed 60 cm. The flowers are of an interesting, reddish-brown color, with a distinct purple lip. There is a light edging along the edge of the lip. The diameter of the flowers is about 10 cm.
Bowring. A taller variety - up to 70 cm. The flowers are not large - no more than 7 cm in diameter. The color is purple-pink. The lip is of a similar shade, with a bright yellow spot.
Triana. The plant is about half a meter high. The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter. Color – white and pink. The crimson lip with a white border stands out clearly against the main background. Blooms in winter or early spring.
Forbesa. One of the smallest orchids. The height of an adult plant does not exceed 20 cm. The flowers are quite large - about 10 cm in diameter. The color is delicate - olive, shaded with a white-pink lip. Flowering occurs in summer or autumn.

Beginners' Cattleya flower is in no hurry to form buds. Therefore, it is better to buy a plant that is already flowering. If there are no flowers on the orchid, examine its bulbs. Living roots and at least one sheath indicate that the plant has every chance of blooming in the very near future.

Cattleya care and favorable microclimate

Cattleya is considered a rather difficult crop to grow. When organizing care for a cattleya orchid at home, they take into account its usual climate features and try to recreate them in the apartment.

Lighting. Any variety of orchid needs diffused but bright light. The optimal location in the apartment is east or west. Sometimes they place a cattleya on a south window, but provide shading in the summer. Feels good in summer glass loggia or balcony. During the day, the windows are opened, but they try to protect the cattleya from unnecessary drafts. The flowering of an orchid directly depends on the intensity of lighting and the length of daylight hours. In winter, the use of additional lighting is encouraged.
Temperature . During active growth and flowering, cattleya is kept at a moderate temperature: about 22–25 °C during the day, 18 °C at night. During the rest period, cattleya is kept in a cool room with a temperature no higher than 18 ° C.
Watering. Experienced gardeners recommend watering Cattleya abundantly. During intensive growth, it consumes a lot of moisture. The surface of the substrate should dry 2–3 cm before watering. The optimal method of watering is immersion. The pot with the orchid is lowered into a large container filled with warm water and held for about ten minutes. When grown in a bark substrate, this procedure should be carried out every two to three days. The frequency of watering depends on the room temperature and time of year. The colder it is, the less moisture the plant needs.
Humidity . Orchid loves high humidity air. Daily spraying is needed without getting moisture on the flowers. Cattleya shoots are covered with moist sphagnum. Additionally, special devices are used to humidify the air, and the pot is placed on a tray with wet filler.
Feeding. Fertilizing while active growth increases the likelihood of flowering. Feed at intervals of one to two weeks, using special fertilizers for orchids. You can feed cattleya with a complex product with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. When a sheath appears at the base of the leaf, feeding is temporarily stopped. Resume fertilizing after the formation of buds.
Soil. Ready-made soil for orchids is sold in most specialized flower shops. At home it is prepared from crushed pine bark, sphagnum moss and foam chips. This soil allows air to pass through well and retains a sufficient amount of moisture.
Transplant. It is enough to replant the cattleya once every two years. The optimal time is the end of the rest period. The pot used is small, slightly cramped. Immediately install the supports. Dry, damaged, rotten roots are cut off. The sections are treated with charcoal powder and dried a little. Large, heavily grown plants are divided into several parts. Cattleya does not like transplantation and is sick for a long time after it. Therefore, if the roots are placed in a pot, the condition of the soil remains satisfactory, it is better not to disturb the flower - the replanting is postponed until next year.

Immediately after flowering ends, the resting phase begins (usually in winter). A short rest and warm conditions keeping them during rest prevents subsequent flowering. Cattleya is moved to a cool room, kept in diffused light. Feeding is temporarily stopped, watering is rare - only if the bulbs begin to wrinkle.

Creating conditions for flowering

Making Cattleya bloom is not difficult - just follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners, take into account natural features plants. Only mature orchids bloom. To stimulate the formation of a peduncle, you need to follow five rules.

Bright light. Orchids do not bloom in the shade. To form a peduncle, the plant must receive a sufficient amount of diffused sunlight.
Proper watering. Irregular watering adversely affects the condition of the orchid as a whole and prevents flowering.
Feeding. Due to lack nutrients Cattleya does not have enough strength to form a peduncle.
Temperature difference. In nature, cattleyas grow in climates with pronounced daily temperature changes. The same conditions need to be created at home. The difference between day and night temperatures should be about 5 °C.
Rest period. Keep cattleya in a cool room, minimize watering, and stop feeding. After returning to the usual conditions of detention, the cattleya blooms.

To prolong the flowering of cattleya, immediately after the buds appear, it is moved to a place protected from sunlight. The room should be cool - heat provokes premature wilting of flowers. In the reviews, flower growers do not recommend overfeeding cattleya or disturbing it unnecessarily.

Plant resuscitation: how to grow roots

Sometimes gardeners have to revive a cattleya without roots. It dies as a result of improper care, bacterial and fungal diseases. The essence of resuscitation is the creation of certain conditions favorable for recovery. To grow Cattleya roots, follow the following sequence of actions.

Soaking. Every day, for two hours, immerse the orchid in a container with warm water. It is advisable to carry out the procedure in the morning, at the same time.
Fertilizer application. Once every two weeks, a complex fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is added to the soaking water.
Growing roots. When young roots appear, fertilization is stopped. Daily soaking continues for about ten days.
Landing. When the roots reach a length of 5–7 cm, the cattleya is planted in a narrow pot with a bark-based substrate.

During the first month, the reanimated orchid needs intensive care. It is regularly sprayed and watered, waiting for 2–3 cm of soil to dry. A microscopic dose of the growth stimulator "Epin" is periodically added to the spraying water.

Reproduction methods

Cattleya can be propagated by dividing the bush and by cuttings. Orchids practically do not reproduce by seeds for two reasons - the difficulty of growing seedlings and the long wait for flowering.

Dividing the bush

An adult, well-formed cattleya bush can be divided and planted in different pots. The procedure is combined with a transplant. It is carried out in the following sequence.

Soaking. Water the orchid generously and leave for a couple of hours. When the soil is completely wet, carefully remove the plant from the pot.
Washing the roots. The roots are thoroughly washed in water room temperature, removing any remaining substrate.
Division. Using a sharp sterile instrument, cut the bush into several parts. Each division must have at least three bulbs and living roots. All sections are treated with charcoal powder and dried.
Landing. The delenki are planted in separate pots with a substrate of crushed pine bark.

Children

Cattleya is characterized by the formation of children. Flower growers use them for propagation. If children are not formed, cytokinin paste is used - a hormonal agent to stimulate flowering or the formation of daughter shoots. The separation and disembarkation of children is carried out in the following sequence.

Children's department. The daughter shoot must be sufficiently developed, have its own roots and several leaves. It is carefully separated from the mother plant.
Preparing for landing. The baby is soaked in a solution of a growth stimulator for several hours.
Landing. The prepared shoot is planted in a light substrate of crushed pine bark. After planting, maintain a stable temperature, keep in diffused light, and water regularly.

Flowering occurs most quickly when propagated by dividing the bush. At good conditions content, daughter shoots develop quite quickly. And from the moment the seeds are sown until flowering, at least five years pass.

Possible errors during cultivation

Cattleya is a difficult crop to grow, so sometimes mistakes cannot be avoided. Errors in care lead to a decrease in decorativeness, sometimes even to the death of the plant. The most common mistakes gardeners make are collected in the table.

Table - Cattleya care mistakes

External manifestation	Main reasons	Help Cattleya
The peduncle withered before the flowers appeared	– Lack of moisture; – dim lighting; – lack of nutrition	-Adjust care and if necessary, install artificial lighting
Pseudobulbs and foliage have turned yellow	-Thermal sunburn	-In hot weather, when located on a south window, the cattleya is shaded with tulle
The leaves are wrinkled	– Lack of moisture in the soil and air; – root rotting	– Inspect the root system for rot and replant if necessary; – water and spray more often
The leaves have darkened, softened, drooped	- Lack of light	- Move the cattleya to a well-lit place or install artificial lighting
The bases of the pseudobulbs have turned black	- Rotting due to excessive watering during cold wintering	– Cut out damaged areas; – treated with coal powder and fungicide; – transplanted
The peduncle has dried up	– Lack of moisture; – dim lighting; – nutritional deficiency	- Adjustment of conditions of detention
The tips of the leaves have turned brown and dried out.	Heat	-In hot weather, cattleya is sprayed several times a day

Frequent illnesses

Most dangerous for orchids fungal diseases. After pest attacks, they sometimes develop infectious diseases. The sooner treatment is started, the greater the chance of saving the cattleya. The table shows the main diseases, symptoms and treatment methods.

Table - Cattleya diseases

Name of the disease	Main symptoms	Treatment methods
Root rot	– The leaves are turning brown; – blurry spots appear on the pseudobulbs; – roots turn black and become slimy	– Immediately replant with pruning of roots to healthy tissue; – water with a 0.2% solution of the drugs “Fundazol”, “Topsin”
Gray rot	– Weeping spots with a fluffy coating appear on the foliage and pseudobulbs; - are formed on flowers brown spots	– Cut off all affected parts of the cattleya; – water the substrate and spray the plant with the preparation “Skor”, “Oxyx”
Mosaic disease	Yellowish spots appear on the leaves in the form of concentric stripes or circles	The infected cattleya is destroyed
Rust	WITH inside reddish spots appear on the leaves	– Infected leaves are cut off; – sections are treated with diluted alcohol; – sprayed with Ritomil, Mikasan
Anthracnose	Small, concave, blackened, round spots appear	– Infected leaves are cut off; – sections are treated with iodine; – sprayed with preparations “Skor”, “Mikasan”

Common Pests

Pests pose a significant danger to Cattleya. Flower growers have to deal with mealybugs and spider mites. To combat them, insecticides and acaricides are used. More detailed information on pests is given in the table.

Table - Cattleya pests

Pest	Signs of defeat	Ways to fight
Mealybug	– A whitish cottony coating appears; – buds and flower stalks are deformed	– Treat the plant with a mixture of soap and alcohol; – sprayed with Actellik and Phosfamide
Shchitovka	Round growths of grayish or brown	– Insects are removed with tweezers or kerosene is applied to their shell; – sprayed with the preparation “Fitoverm”, “Metaphos”
Thrips	– Small brown spots and black dots appear on the leaves; – holes form on the petals; - leaves fall off	Spray with “Vermitek”, “Karate”
Spider mite	– Light spots appear on the leaves; - With reverse side a barely noticeable web forms on the leaf	– Increase humidity; – spray with warm water several times a day; – treated with the drug “Aktara”

You only need to see a Cattleya orchid blooming at home once to fall in love with this plant forever. Growing it will require a lot of effort, but it will fully pay off with long flowering and high decorative value.

Name: Cattleya
Family: Orchidaceae
Origin: Central and South America
Humidity: High Humidity
Location: Sunny
Soil: Loose
Pests and diseases: Fungus
Required work: Planting, care, watering, pruning, fertilizing
Height: 30-60 cm
Flowering: Autumn-winter or winter-spring

Many orchid lovers probably have Cattleyas.

Hybrid Cattleyas are delicate and showy. But they often refuse to bloom. Moreover, they are faced with this and experienced flower growers, and beginners. Yes, they grow well and feel good, but they don’t bloom. In general, there are several conditions for Cattleya to bloom. And if you follow them together, you can achieve a positive result.

But first of all, you need to determine the age of the plant. After all, only adult specimens bloom. Therefore, before taking any measures, you need to make sure that the orchid is an adult.

How can you tell if a Cattleya is an adult?

If the orchid is purchased during flowering, as a whole bush. She has living roots.
The orchid or division must have living roots and bulbs. Moreover, the bulbs must have a cover on at least one or signs of flowering. That is, to be already faded. There must be at least 4 bulbs.

In other cases, there may not be flowering. Or there will definitely be some problems in this regard. For example, if there are no living roots on the division. But she has mature bulbs that have already faded. Then the problem with flowering may be due to timing. That is, until it grows a bulb with roots. And these roots will already form a bulb next season, which will bloom. This is in an ideal situation. You'll have to wait and look after your pet. In general, the more bulbs, the faster the plant will reach the right age for flowering. For Cattleya, the optimal number is 4 bulbs. But practice shows that this depends on the hybrid and the condition of the orchid.

You can run into an unscrupulous supplier and buy instead of an adult, but never yet, not flowering plant grown seedling. Although suppliers usually value their reputation, such things happen quite rarely.

There are a lot of cattleya hybrids. Therefore, it is difficult to determine its age by the size of the bulbs or leaves. For many cattleyas with one leaf, the adult bulb size is about 10 cm, but there are also larger ones. But this is approximately. For example, there are single-leaf hybrids no taller than a seedling. And at the same time this is an adult flowering plant. With two-leaved cattleyas it is even more difficult. They are the most different sizes. It is ideal to know the name of the hybrid and look for information on English-language resources on the Internet.

Sometimes knowing the name you can make very rough conclusions. Hybrids involving Sophronitis (Sc, Slc, Potinara) are usually small. For example Slc. Wendy's Valentine "June" has a bulb about 6 cm. Slc varieties. Jewel Box "Scheherezade", or Pot. Burana Beauty medium size. Otaars, Cattleytonia, Leliocattonia too small sizes with small flowers. And Leliocattleya and Brassoleocattleya with two leaves vary in size from small to large.

Flowering conditions for Catley

Now that we have more or less decided on the age, we can move on to the conditions for flowering. Basically, these conditions of detention apply to spring and summer. After all, it is during the growth period that the main prerequisites for flowering are formed.

Lighting

So the first condition is lighting. And it’s not just daylight that’s needed here. Cattleya needs a straight line for it to bloom. sunlight. On the other hand, measure is also needed. So that the orchid does not get burns on the leaves. Therefore, it is best to choose a place where the orchid will receive sunlight for several hours a day. You can use a glazed balcony.

If it is very hot the temperature is above +30°C. In the morning, you can cover the cattleyas with damp gauze, when the main heat subsides and the gauze can be removed. Another option is a light transparent tulle curtain for particularly hot weather. Many orchidists use blinds. It is very convenient to regulate the light falling on the plants.

If all windows face north. Here we can recommend artificial lighting. Perhaps a phytolamp will help. It's worth a try. On a glazed balcony, it is better to open the window. Air circulation will create a normal microclimate. This is also prevention against fungi and rot. But at the same time, cattleyas do not like drafts. Therefore, you will have to work hard to find a balance for the plants.

But on the windowsill you should be careful with the open sun. If there is no good air circulation, the orchid may overheat. You can open the window slightly. In general, we will have to develop a system. So that the cattleyas get enough sun and do not overheat.

An important point is adaptation to the sun. It is better to do this gradually with newly acquired orchids. It is quite possible that the seller grew it under artificial light.

Cattleyas sometimes appear red when exposed to the sun. They are usually found on the bulbs and leaves on the reverse side. Although this is not a burn, it is worth being careful. If such things appear a little and gradually, then there is nothing terrible about them. But when the redness appears quite strongly and in a short period of time, measures need to be taken. Do not cause burns.

It is better to move Cattleya to another place where it is cooler. A sunbathing stop for two weeks. And already follow appearance orchids. When the redness goes away, you can acclimate the plant to the sun again. But do this carefully, considering that it needs stronger shading. But many cattleyas that are accustomed to the sun can have red leaves and feel great. Sometimes cattleya leaves turn yellow, usually specimens with light leaves. Here, too, stronger shading is needed. Sometimes this occurs due to lack of moisture in the heat under the sun.

Watering and fertilizing

An important condition for flowering is watering and fertilizing. The orchid should develop strong growth in the summer. This means she needs a lot of moisture. The soil dries out especially quickly under the sun. So you need to keep an eye on this. And moisturize it as it dries. Cattleyas respond well to immersing a pot in warm water. This type of watering is optimal for them.

If the summer is cool, then it is recommended not to water the cattleyas on the balcony or to do it very sparingly. Night temperature +8-+12 °C is a reason to bring the flower home at night. Especially if no warming is expected. It's better to leave them in the room. Temperatures at night around 5°C are dangerous for the plant. Growth may be retarded and flowering may be weak. And fungal spots may appear on the leaves.

A little about fertilizers. They are an important component of normal Cattleya flowering. You can apply mineral fertilizers for orchids, but in principle any mineral fertilizer will do. The main thing is that they do not contain calcium. Can be diluted in water for irrigation. At the beginning of the growth phase, it is better to choose a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. And leave phosphorus and potassium for the end of this period. This is when the bulbs form.

Temperature fluctuations

Temperature fluctuations throughout the day are no less important. Ideally, the difference between night and day temperatures should be seven degrees. Meaning summer period. Although there are hybrid cattleyas that bloom beautifully without this.

Cattleyas' need for diurnal fluctuations may become additional reason, keep them on the balcony in the summer. In our climate, such changes can easily occur on their own. Difficulties with this may arise with orchids that are kept in the room all the time. Alternatively, you can leave the window open overnight.

Rest period

Another condition is a period of rest. At this time, the orchid is gaining strength. U different types Cattleyas have this period at different times. If flowering is autumn-early winter, the dormant period is until spring. And the cattleyas that bloom in late winter and spring. She rests in autumn until the flower stalk develops in winter or spring.

It is better to spend the rest period of the cattleya in light and coolness. And it is advisable that a lot of sunlight does not fall on it. It should be watered rarely, about once every 2 weeks. There is no need to apply fertilizers. Spraying is also stopped. To avoid rot. But humidifying the air is beneficial for the orchid. You can place the pot in a tray with moistened expanded clay. Supplemental lighting with a phytolamp is also useful. Or just a fluorescent lamp. For spring cattleyas the contents are the same.

In spring, a flower stalk grows in the sheath, even if it has dried out. When it becomes visible, watering should be increased. You can slowly add fertilizer. When the cattleya blooms, it is better to remove it to a shaded place. This way the flowers last longer.

Autumn and spring cattleyas usually produce new growth at the same time. When night temperatures are above +10°C, you can take them out onto the balcony. It is better to install a thermometer and a humidifier there. This will make it easier for the orchid grower to care for the plants.

And a little more about hybrid cattleyas. These are Dutch copies with two leaves without a title. They are miniature and do not have a pronounced resting time. They rest just a little when one growth has grown, and quickly give the next one. They can bloom up to 3 times a year. And they are not sensitive to daily temperature changes.

Cattleya appeared at home in the middle of the 18th century. The first plant brought to Europe bloomed in a greenhouse in the English town of Barnet in 1818 thanks to the efforts of W. Cattleya, a great connoisseur of tropical flora. Subsequently, D. Lindley, who first described the genus, which today consists of more than 180 species, named it in honor of a gardener and florist from a London suburb.

Graceful representatives of the Orchid family grow among nature in various climatic conditions of Central and South America– in the humid Amazonian jungle on tree trunks in the shade of their crowns, on dry mountain slopes under the influence of direct sunlight.

Appearance of the plant

Cattleya is a universally recognized standard of beauty among orchids. In nature, it reaches sizes from 30 cm to one and a half meters. In indoor culture, it does not exceed 30–45 cm. It forms many aerial roots. The flowering of cattleya, like a spectacular show, amazes with the sophistication of its forms, richness of shades and stunning aroma, superior to the smell of lilies and lilies of the valley combined.

Like a plant, cattleya develops thick stems - pseudobulbs with 2–3 internodes. Every year, a young shoot appears at the base of an adult shoot from previous years. Each pseudobulb, depending on the type, forms 1 or 2 leathery or fleshy leaves of a rich green color.

Depending on the time of flowering, there are autumn-blooming cattleyas and those with spring bud formation. Orchid blooming is a real holiday! The peduncle appears from the leaf axil, rolled up like a little bag into a cover of integumentary leaves; at the top it bears one or several large fragrant flowers in a racemose inflorescence. Their colors are different - from snow-white, light purple and pale pink to sunny yellow, crimson, greenish, deep purple, maybe just blue and black.

The corolla consists of three sepals and three petals, brightly and equally colored. The middle petal is modified into a lip, funnel-shaped or tubular, the edges of which are curled outward and, in most cattleyas, ruffled. The lip shade is usually darker than the petals, or contrasting color, sometimes decorated with various patterns of spots and streaks, the throat is usually yellow. The Cattleya fruit is a capsule with microscopic seeds.

Cattleya orchid

Planting Cattleya: suitable container and substrate composition

The orchid reacts painfully to even transshipment along with the substrate into larger in size pot, does not show signs of active growth for a long time. As with many epiphytic plants, cattleyas choose a translucent flower container with holes in the side walls and bottom. The signal for transplanting cattleya is the state of the substrate: its oxidation or compaction. The right time for replanting is the beginning of vegetative growth, which can be easily determined by new shoots that have reached 2–3 cm.

Main components for composing the substrate:

pine bark of small and medium fraction;
sphagnum moss.

On the eve of planting, the bark is soaked in boiled water for two days, then the water is completely drained. A drainage layer of gravel or expanded clay 2 cm thick is laid at the bottom, followed by larger pieces of bark. In case of dry air in the room, add a little foam to the substrate to retain moisture. Cattleya roots are placed in a flower container and sprinkled with small pieces of bark. Sometimes they add a little charcoal. The top is mulched with moss.

Cattleya orchid requiring replanting

Grooming a beauty queen

Cattleya orchid, care for which at home requires growing experience capricious plants, awaits the constant care of the orchid grower. Of no small importance for the successful cultivation of queen orchids is the main location of the flower. It is advisable to install a container with cattleya on windowsills facing southwest, east and south. Windows facing south are shaded with a tulle curtain or blinds in the hottest sunshine.

IN warm time years, when night air temperatures no longer fall below 10 degrees above zero, cattleyas are taken out to a glassed-in balcony with the possibility of good air exchange. The plant does not tolerate drafts and reacts negatively to the proximity of an air conditioner.

Lighting is a necessary factor for flowering

Direct sunlight is extremely important for cattleyas. Of course, in scorching heat, the orchid should be protected from sunburn. Its leaves themselves will tell you whether the plant has enough lighting: light green with yellowness indicates an excess of light, a dark green tint indicates that there is not enough lighting, and finally, a rich, juicy emerald color indicates that the queen of orchids is happy with everything.

Comfortable temperature conditions

Growing cattleya is quite feasible in the microclimate of an ordinary apartment. In summer, the plant develops well when the thermometer in the room where the cattleya is located is within 22–30 degrees above zero.

Attention! When preparing an orchid for flowering, a difference in night and day temperatures of 5–7 degrees is necessary, otherwise the formation of buds will not occur.

Midwinter is a dormant time for most orchids, both autumn and spring bloomers. Air temperature environment During this period, it is advisable to maintain less than summer temperature, but not lower than 13 degrees.

Watering and air humidity

Cattleya is a moisture-loving plant, but compliance with the measure is important when organizing the irrigation regime. In summer, in hot weather, the plant is watered more often - up to a couple of times during the week. Soldering is effective at this time, that is, immersing the flower container in a vessel with water for 5–15 minutes.

However, if a cold snap occurs in the middle of summer with a drop in daytime air temperature to 15–18 degrees, and at night to 12–13 degrees, the frequency of moistening and the volume of irrigation water are reduced so as not to provoke putrefactive processes in the root system. A Cattleya without roots is subject to resuscitation, and this undertaking is extremely lengthy and troublesome.

Carefully ensure that the stream during watering does not get inside the growing point or cover - these are the organs of the plant that are most vulnerable to various types of rot.

Advice! Does Cattleya need drying? Flower growers with experience in growing orchids are sure that it is necessary: between successive moistenings, the substrate should be allowed to dry in order to reduce the risk of rotting of the root system.

Dry air has a bad effect on the development of Cattleya. The optimal environmental humidity for a flower is 60%, achieved by spraying during the active growing season up to 2 times a day at high temperatures air. It is undesirable for wet drops to fall on the peduncle, pseudobulb and sheath; for Cattleya, it is preferable not even to spray, but to pollinate - creating a wet cloud.

During rest, cattleya is watered once every 2 weeks. Active watering is resumed with the appearance of a peduncle or new growth in the sheath.

During the cold period, air humidity is regulated by placing moisture sources next to the orchid, but when low temperatures high moisture content in the air initiates rot damage to the plant.

Fertilizer application

Cattleya is fertilized once a week during the active growing season; during rest, the plant is not fertilized. They use specialized fertilizers for orchids, using them in a concentration halved from that indicated by the manufacturer on the label.

When preparing an orchid for flowering, preference is given to fertilizers containing more phosphorus and potassium. added to irrigation water in small quantities for cattleyas starting to grow after rest.

Cattleya care during the dormant period

For various types Cattleya, the time when the plant stops actively developing occurs in different months of the year. Plants, blooming in autumn or in December, they rest immediately after flowering and until the first spring growth appears. Cattleya, which blooms in the last month of winter or at the beginning of spring, goes to rest after the end of the formation of the pseudobulb of the current season, approximately in mid-autumn before flowering begins.

The main task of an orchid grower during dormancy is to prevent direct sunlight from falling on the sleeping plant, which can cause the onset of growth. A Cattleya that wakes up at the wrong time will refuse to bloom and will confuse all its life cycle. During the rest period, the orchid is moved to a cool, bright corner of the apartment, any feeding is stopped and it is moistened a couple of times a month, or even less often, but the condition of the pseudobulbs is monitored to prevent them from shrinking.

Cattleya and caring for it at home, no matter how labor-intensive it may be, rewards the gardener with more than the effort expended - spectacular flowering and incredible aesthetic pleasure.

Reproduction of Cattleya

At home, cattleya is propagated in only one way - by dividing the rhizome. carried out only in greenhouses or conservatories by experienced specialists in compliance with the necessary sterility.

As a rule, breeding Cattleya is combined with. Most the right time for such events - before the formation of new roots in the spring.

The plant is removed from the flower container and placed in a vessel with warm water so that the roots soften and are saturated with moisture - this makes them easier to untangle. It is important at this moment to take a good look at the rhizome in order to detect rotten and dead roots - they should be removed with disinfected scissors or pruners, then dry the roots.

Next, you should decide on the location of the cutting of the rhizome, which must be divided in such a way that on each resulting new independent plant there remain at least 2-3 pseudobulbs with a sufficient number of living roots. The cut areas must be treated with charcoal powder, but not with an alcohol-containing antiseptic. The cuttings are planted following the basic rules for replanting a Cattleya orchid.

Reproduction of cattleya orchid by division of rhizomes

Errors in care, diseases and pests of cattleyas

The main problems in growing cattleya are related to the lack of flowering. It’s a shame and a shame to invest all your soul in caring for the queen of orchids and not receive beautiful flowers.

Necessary conditions for the appearance of flower stalks in Cattleya:

direct sunlight, at least several hours a day;
correct mode and timely;
the temperature difference during the day is at least 7 degrees during the growth period, i.e. in the summer months;
proper care for Cattleya during rest, usually in winter.

Cattleya case with peduncle

Possible Cattleya diseases

Black rot is a fungus that attacks the roots and base of the pseudobulb. In the case of rotting of some roots, it is advisable to remove the damaged areas - in this case, resuscitation of the cattleya is possible.
Brown rot caused by bacteria.
Gray rot, its causative agent is a mold fungus, especially affects the white-flowered Cattleya hybrid.
Anthracnose is a fungal disease that appears on leaf blades and pseudobulbs.
Rust is the first sign of chlorosis of the leaves. Pathogens are fungi that come from planting material from Cuba. Diseased orchids are destroyed.
Cattleya mosaic - characteristic small spots and deformation are observed on the petals and leaves.

More information about orchid diseases can be found in the following

My mother-in-law is an avid orchid collector. As soon as she finds out that a new variety or type of this flower appears in the stores of our city (in any district), she immediately calls and asks to buy it for her.

One day she went to the seaside, asking me to look after her “flowerbed.” At first I grumbled, but along the way I became so involved in orchid growing that I bought myself a small cattleya. And then another one...

Here are the most popular ones that are found on the windowsills of our country:

A distinctive feature of the flower is its “protruding” lip, which often also has a contrasting color. This orchid is also notable for its pseudobulbs, which grow in the same way as roots and leaves - during the active growing season (warm season).

In addition, unlike the almost “sterile”, that is, phalaenopsis that does not smell at all, the flowers opening on a cattleya bush smell noticeably and simply magical. And some varieties in the dark can even be confused with lily or lily of the valley.

Basic rules for caring for this flower

Lighting. Everything is standard here: the light should be bright, but diffused. Experienced “cattleya breeders” have noticed that this flower needs to be rearranged, kept in the south window in the summer (shading it in the midday heat), and in the winter - in the southwest or east.
Temperature. In this regard, Cattleya is unpretentious: the climate that is created in our homes suits it.
Watering. And here there are subtleties. Firstly, the liquid should only fall on the ground, but not on the “body” of the orchid (especially in winter and on the growing points of the leaves). Secondly, if in the summer it needs to be watered generously (as soon as the substrate dries), then in the winter hide the watering can - the “Spartan” spraying of the soil will be enough for the cattleya. Return to the watering can when you see the plant putting out a flower stalk. Naturally, the water should be settled or the like (distilled, boiled, warm melted water will do).
Water procedures. This orchid loves spraying. Also in the summer you can put it under the shower, but if you pack the pot in a bag, you should not fill it with soil, this can lead to rotting of the root system. Also, in hot weather, a pot with this flower can be kept on a tray with wet expanded clay or just water. Unlike other orchids, cattleya will not die, but on the contrary, it will be grateful to you if its roots touch water.
Nutrition. It is given either during flowering (at the very beginning - when the flowers open, you can refuse feeding), or during the period of pseudobulb growth. You can buy a complex mineral composition for orchids. When diluting such food, add as much water as possible.
Special conditions of care. Cattleya needs to hibernate. It occurs after the end of flowering (usually autumn and/or winter). Do not feed the orchid, replace the watering can with a spray bottle, but do not remove the pot from the illuminated windowsill, or even better, illuminate the flower with a regular or special lamp. In addition, just before the flowering period, it is important that the difference in night and day temperatures is within 5-7 degrees - the number of future Cattleya flowers depends on this.

Transfer

Not the most popular procedure in caring for Cattleya, because this orchid really does not like “moving”. Therefore, the plant is disturbed with this procedure once every 3 or even 4 years.

Always use transshipment and mentally prepare for the fact that after the procedure the orchid will “wither away” for some time, being capricious and recovering.

When to replant? Look at the substrate: if it has oxidized (lightened, become covered with whitish spots) and become dense, the time has come! It is also worth re-potting your pet if you suspect that its roots are diseased or do not fit in the pot.

The pot can be anything - either a typical orchid translucent one (made of plastic) or a closed clay one.

sphagnum moss,
pine bark (fine and medium).

Place a layer of expanded clay (drainage) on the bottom of the pot, then a little coarse bark and perlite, move the orchid, and cover the distance from the roots to the walls of the pot with sphagnum with fine bark.

You can see the entire transplant process with comments from the florist here:

Reproduction

When replanting, you can divide the cattleya bush - so from one orchid you will get two (three, four).

The orchid is taken out of the old pot and placed in a bowl of water for a while. When the substrate gets wet, it must be carefully removed, and the intertwined roots of the plants must be untangled by hand. It is better to do this by immersing your hands in the water in which you are root system Cattleyas.

Important: each division must be “equipped” with 3 pseudobulbs or more. It must also have a sprout and a lot of living roots.

These cattleyas are planted in the substrate described above.

Orchid does not bloom: what to do and who is to blame

If the plant is healthy, it may still be “small” to flower.
If you bought a non-blooming cattleya (especially on sale), inspect the bush: are its roots healthy, are there any signs of flowering. There is a possibility that this year the plant has already finished flowering, which the store “forgot” to warn about.
Also, the appearance of flowers is influenced by many factors (a sufficient amount of light, fertilizing applied on time and in the right quantity, well-organized “hibernation”, as well as temperature differences in the “pre-flowering” phase of Cattleya). It may well be that the pot with the flower stagnated in a store where the cattleya was poorly cared for, the plant became “offended”, and you won’t have to wait for flowering this year.

What to do? It's simple: if the plant is sick, treat it. If it’s healthy, take full care of it, and Cattleya will delight you with a flower (or flowers - up to a dozen can bloom on one bush) next year.

And of course, you can’t make a mistake when buying - if you buy a sick orchid, you shouldn’t hope that it will go away on its own and bloom magnificently in your home. An experienced orchid lover will tell you how to buy Cattleya correctly:

Other difficulties in growing Cattleya

The leaves change color. This is how the plant reacts to improper lighting. Yes, if the leaf blades begin to darken, there is not enough light for the cattleya, but if they turn yellow, on the contrary, the plant needs to be shaded.
Leaves and bulbs are wrinkled. There can be many reasons: attack by harmful insects (scale insects, thrips, spider mites), overheating or hypothermia of the roots, drying out of the plant.
The roots have rotted away. In this case, the upper part of the plant may still be alive. This means that all is not lost - you can grow a new rhizome. To do this, soak the orchid in water every day for 2 hours. When the root buds become noticeable, you can transplant the plant into soil made up of charcoal, pine bark, moss, and coconut substrate.

You will hear more about how to grow “sick” roots here:

But what to do if you received an orchid in an absolutely “dead” state? Save this minute! In this video you will see the resuscitation of a true “goon”. There is hope!