With the approach of cold weather, all gardeners are thinking about how to properly prepare plants for the so-called wintering. It would seem that there is no need to do anything for the blueberry bush - care in the fall, preparation for winter... But, despite its northern origin, this berry still needs proper and high-quality care. And only competent preparation by the winter period it will help to maintain the fairly high fruiting of this crop. If you do nothing, then there are no guarantees for it. Therefore, I will consider, especially for readers of “Popular about Health,” the existing developments in this matter.
Blueberries are widely used not only as ornamental plant, but also how berry bush, which produces quite tasty and healthy fruits; in addition, they are rich in a variety of vitamins. For planting on your personal plot, it is better to give preference to frost-resistant varieties: Blugold, Bluecrop, Herbert, Bluray, Patriot, Bonus, and also the Elizabeth variety is in the leading place.
Blueberry care in autumn - pruning
Blueberry bush being prepared for winter in autumn period It is important to fertilize, cover and prune. Especially young shrubs need a so-called thinning procedure, when it is necessary to cut out all the thin branches that are located next to the ground.
In the fourth year, the plant is pruned at medium intensity, which will stimulate the growth of berries, since the blueberry crop forms future fruits on the so-called growth of the previous year. With the onset of autumn, sanitary pruning is carried out, when it is necessary to remove diseased branches, which are then recommended to be burned.
Preparing blueberries for winter - feeding blueberries
Properly selected fertilizers for blueberries, including Kristalon fertilizer, will have a positive effect on the productivity of this berry crop, in addition, the winter hardiness of the plant will significantly increase in those regions where harsh winters usually prevail. Fertilizers should be applied at the end of August, before the beginning of autumn.
Usually the crop is fed with magnesium-containing fertilizers: Magbor, Kalimag, Kalimagnesia. If the nutritional composition is added late, this may cause the so-called freezing of blueberries.
Watering blueberries in autumn
With the onset of autumn, the process of watering the plant should be significantly reduced, especially in rainy weather. But in some regions, so-called moisture-charging irrigation is carried out, when the soil layer is saturated with water to a depth of approximately 45 centimeters.
The so-called autumn irrigation is carried out using a divider, which will prevent soil erosion, and the blueberry root system will not be exposed. For example, to cultivate a plant for three years, you will need to spend at least five liters of water.
Covering blueberries and mulching bushes
Even winter-hardy varieties plants may be subject to freezing; therefore, it is necessary to carry out all preparatory measures that will help preserve berry crop in good health. If the region experiences prolonged frosts, it is important to cover the shrub, since at -25 degrees the plant can freeze, especially in the absence of sufficient snow cover.
Preparing blueberry bushes for winter should begin closer to autumn. In this case, it is necessary to carefully attract the branches of the plant to the soil, making sure that they are not damaged or broken. Then the bush is covered with thick fabric, for example, breathable burlap is used, and a layer of spruce spruce branches is carefully placed on top.
Protecting blueberries from diseases and pests
Even properly implemented agricultural technology will not be able to guarantee complete protection of this crop from diseases and various pests, and ordinary unfavorable natural factors provoke a significant weakening of blueberries and can cause the death of this plant.
In this regard, so-called preventive measures should be carried out. Timely sanitary pruning, which is complemented by the use of fungicides, is an effective measure to prevent possible diseases of the bush.
Preparing blueberries for cuttings
To obtain sufficiently high-quality blueberry cuttings, it is recommended to cut off the so-called annual branches, their diameter varying from 0.5 to 0.8 cm. The cut planting crop should be stored at a temperature of 0-5 ° C in moist and always ventilated peat.
With the onset of spring, the harvested cuttings are cut 10-12 centimeters long. Typically, the lower cut of the cutting is made under the bud, and then treated with a growth stimulant. After which they are planted in a substrate prepared from sand - one part, and three parts peat. After which they are planted using the so-called vertical deepening method, and it is also recommended to cover the plantings with film.
Rooted cuttings are planted in open ground after completing the mandatory two-week hardening procedures. The already planted crop must be mulched with spruce sawdust, they will help create the maximum favorable conditions for future growth and development of berries.
Blueberry season is ending and you are harvesting your last crop. What to do next? Obviously, you need to somehow prepare the berry bush for winter.
What to do with blueberries in the fall: basic steps to prepare for winter
So, here's what you should do with your blueberries in the fall to properly prepare them for winter:
- Feed immediately after fruiting and harvesting.
- Carry out sanitary pruning.
- Can be replanted (if necessary, it is best to do this
in spring, in cloudy weather).
Advice! It is better to replant blueberries in the fall when the leaves They will already begin to crumble or at least turn red.
- Monitor humidity, i.e. continue to water (remember that blueberries are heather crops, which are very demanding when it comes to watering) and carry out water-charging watering (if the autumn is quite rainy, then it is not necessary, if it is dry, then it is very advisable - the earthen lump needs to be wetted to a depth of 15-30 cm) .
- Cover for the winter (mulch).
When and what to feed blueberries in the fall
The purpose of autumn feeding is to help the bush to lay new flower buds on next year, as well as prepare the plant for winter (strengthen its immunity and improve winter hardiness).
When to Apply Fertilizer
The last (autumn) feeding of blueberries is done after fruiting and berry picking, i.e. in the fall.
What to feed
Remember that the end of fruiting and the onset of autumn (i.e. August-September) is the period when everything perennials(including blueberries) need to be added phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
So, phosphorus is necessary for the plant to strengthen root system, and potassium - for better ripening of shoots, so that the branches do not freeze in winter, as well as for better laying of fruit buds for the next year. In short, autumn feeding Blueberries are required for a good winter and a rich future harvest.
It is especially advisable to feed if at the end of summer the growth of young shoots becomes noticeable.
What fertilizers are suitable (use according to the instructions on the package):
Naturally, it is much more effective to use quickly and easily soluble fertilizers, while the same superphosphate dissolves very poorly and does not act immediately.
- potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) + superphosphate (slow);
- diammofoska (slow);
- monopotassium phosphate (fast);
- plantafol or plantafide (fast).
Pay attention! Blueberries are an “acid-loving” plant, which means that in alkaline soil it will absorb any nutrition very poorly.
Therefore, under no circumstances you can't feed blueberries(use as potassium fertilizer).
How to fertilize:
- It is better at the root (root feeding), but it is also possible along the leaf (foliar feeding).
Advice! In any case, fertilizing should be liquid: sprinkle dry fertilizer and wait for weather from the sea, i.e. rain is not a good idea.
Is it necessary to acidify the soil in the fall?
As a rule, the soil under blueberries is acidified in the spring and summer, but not in the fall.
Pruning blueberries in autumn
Let's say right away that basic pruning blueberries better conduct in the spring. The fact is that you never know what kind of winter it will be and how your berry bush will survive it.
Another thing - autumn sanitary pruning of blueberries(with the beginning or after leaf fall), when necessary get rid of broken, dry and painful branches. Also subject to removal immature young shoots.
Worth knowing! In general, blueberries absolutely require rejuvenating and regulating pruning.
If you do not prune in the future, the bush will thicken over time, and the blueberries will simply be crushed and become sour.
Most the right time for pruning blueberries - early spring, before the buds swell.
Sheltering blueberries for the winter
Blueberries are quite resistant to frost and can easily withstand frosts down to -34 degrees (but there are some heat-loving varieties that can withstand a maximum of -24 degrees), especially if the winter is snowy (Remember that snow is the best insulation!).
But if your winters are usually frosty but snowless, then blueberries should definitely be insulated.
It is especially important to do this with young seedlings planted this year.
In general, the immediate preparation of blueberries for winter consists of covering them, or rather, insulating them by mulching the tree trunk circle.
Important! There is no need to wrap it in agrofibre (spunbond, lutrasil), it is better to just mulch well and tie up the shoots so that they do not break off due to snow and winds.
As a maximum, young blueberry bushes (up to 2 years old) can be covered with spruce branches, laying them in a hut and tying them. This way, the snow will stay better on the bush, and it will be warmer in winter.
How can you mulch blueberries for the winter?
- dry sawdust:
- spruce or pine litter from the forest (preferably rotted);
- straw.
At what height to mulch:
- 5-10 centimeters (young, 1-2 year olds, 8-10 s higher, older ones, 4-5 year olds, 5 cm higher).
Many people ask a completely logical question: “ What to do with mulch in spring, namely sawdust?»
As a rule, it is better to lightly rake the sawdust to the sides and add a little pine litter or acidic peat, which do not harden and allow moisture to pass through well, in other words, loosen it.
Watering
If you decide to plant blueberry seedlings on your site, then do not forget to keep the planting hole moist and prevent it from drying out. If you don’t have many blueberry bushes, then it is very convenient and effective to use a watering can - you will not wash away the mulch, as can happen when watering with a hose under high pressure. Soil moisture should be 60-70% of the full field moisture capacity.
At the dacha, it is better to water blueberry bushes 2 times a week, one bucket of water per adult bush. twice a day(better in the evening). Abundant watering necessary in July-August, since at this time blueberries bear fruit, and at the same time they are laid flower buds, forming next year's harvest. If there is not enough moisture, then you you will significantly lose your harvest not only this year, but also next year.
If the street is settled high temperature air for several days, then in addition to watering, you need to spray the bushes for cooling after lunch at 16:00. Thanks to spraying, stress from overheating is reduced and the rate of photosynthesis increases.
Mulching
Mulching - covering the surface of the earth around the plant different materials to maintain moisture in the top layer of soil. You can mulch blueberry bushes with straw, leaves, pine needles, and best of all rotted pine sawdust or bark. The mulch layer can be from 4 to 15 centimeters.
With mulching you will get rid of weeds and create optimal conditions to maintain optimal humidity of the substrate in which blueberry bushes grow. A layer of mulch allows the plants to bud a little later in the spring, which helps blueberries cope with fluctuations in winter and spring temperatures.
Pay attention!
When mulching blueberry bushes fresh sawdust There is an intensive consumption of nitrogen from the soil, which is so necessary for blueberries, and because of this, blueberry bushes begin to grow poorly. Therefore, before mulching, you need to add a double amount of nitrogen fertilizer to the soil (when mulching in the spring; when mulching Nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied in winter).
Mineral nutrition and fertilizer application
Garden blueberries need mineral fertilizers. The amount and composition of fertilizers applied must be determined based on the characteristics of the soil in each specific suburban area.
Determining the deficiency or excess of nutrients when examining blueberry bushes.
With sufficient quantity nitrogen The plants have relatively large dark green leaves and strong growth. With a deficiency of this element, shoot growth first slows down, then old leaves acquire a yellowish-green tint. At significant nitrogen deficiency the plant turns yellow-green, then the leaves on it acquire a reddish tint, growth slows down, and the yield and size of the berries decrease sharply. Young shoots growing under nitrogen deficiency have a distinct pink, and after growth stops they become pale green.
Excess nitrogen causes active growth of shoots, which continues until late autumn. As a result, the shoots do not have time to ripen and become lignified, which leads to them freezing or death V winter period.
Often manufacturers, trying accelerate the growth of seedlings blueberries, overfeed them with nitrogen. As a result, the bushes look very tall, and they can be sold to you as 3 or 4 years old, but in fact the bush is only 2 years old. But this is not dangerous - the danger is that such bushes may die over the winter or some of the shoots may freeze significantly. It is very easy to identify overfed bushes in October-November, when all high-quality bushes acquire beautiful decorative look: red foliage. Overfed blueberry bushes have the color of leaves and shoots green or dark green. Have you ever seen this?
At phosphorus deficiency the tops of the leaves turn purple-green and their bases dark purple. Over time, all the leaves become purple tint and leathery texture. The degree of manifestation of the symptom depends on the illumination of the bushes: under bright sunlight, the purple color is clearly visible, but in shading or cloudiness it may disappear. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves themselves are pressed closely to the stem (while usually they are located at a right angle).
At potassium deficiency First, the tops of the leaves die, then necrotic spots appear in the middle and along the edges of the leaves. As the deficiency of this element increases, the edges of the leaves warp. On young leaves, yellowing between the veins is observed from time to time. The grown shoots die off, with the black tip clearly visible. At times there is a strong growth of branching shoots from the lateral buds, which also die off after some time.
Calcium. There are no clear symptoms of a deficiency of this element. Most noticeable are warped leaves with yellowed edges. A slight yellow-green spotting appears on the apical leaves, the edges turn yellow. From time to time the leaves form sockets. The top of the sheet warps and may fall off.
Magnesium deficiency easily recognized by the bright red edges of older leaves. The red color along the edges and between the veins contrasts strongly with green, which is dominant in the center of the leaf near the midrib (resembling a Christmas tree). In intense sunlight, necrotic spots are detected, and instead of a red color, yellow or brown shades appear.
Boron deficiency recognized by the blue color of the apical leaves, which abruptly stop growing. Then, on older leaves, slight yellowing between the veins is detected, and on young leaves, yellowish dots appear. The leaves are distorted. The shoots stop growing and dry out. At times, the death of shoots leads to the formation of “witches’ brooms” (the development of shoots from underlying buds begins, which then also die).
On iron deficiency indicates yellowing near the veins of young apical leaves. Further, the symptoms appear in the form of a network of green veins against the background of a lemon coloring of the entire leaf at the tops of the shoots. Lack of iron has an extremely negative effect on plant growth and fruiting.
Manganese deficiency, like iron deficiency, manifests itself on young leaves in the form of yellowing between the veins. The difference is that the green color near the vein has a wider border. Over time, the yellowed areas along the edges of the leaf die off. Necrotic spots appear throughout the leaf, which gradually merge and the leaf dies.
Zinc deficiency blueberry disease manifests itself as yellowing of young leaves, with the entire leaf turning lemon yellow. The leaves do not grow, become small and narrow, and form rosettes, as the internodes also shrink.
Sulfur. A sign of starvation are chlorotic spots on the leaves, and in case of acute deficiency, a yellowish-white color appears on them. In severe cases, the leaves turn whitish-pink or even white. Lack of sulfur in the soil leads to an increase in pH (indicator) and deterioration in activity mycorrhizae. On soils with a pH of 5 units, it is recommended to apply 50 grams, and on soils with a pH of 6.0 - 100 grams of sulfur per 1 m2. The use of sulfate forms of fertilizers is an additional source of sulfur. Acidification of the soil with sulfuric acid (or electrolyte) has the same effect.
Signs copper deficiency appear primarily on the leaves. They become smaller and often curl upward. Older leaves turn brown and die, and the tops of the branches dry out. Sometimes, as with a lack of boron, numerous small branches grow from the lateral and dormant buds - “witches’ brooms”.
Molybdenum deficiency appears on young leaves of growing shoots in the form of chlorosis between the veins.
When is the best time to apply mineral fertilizers for blueberries?
– fertilizers should be applied at the beginning of spring (at the beginning of sap flow) or the beginning of bud swelling.
On soils with acidity () above 4.8, ammonium sulfate must be added twice per season at intervals of 6-7 weeks at the rate of 10-15 grams per 1 m2. On soils with an optimal pH level, it is recommended to apply 90 grams of ammonium sulfate, 40 grams of potassium sulfate and 110 grams of superphosphate per adult blueberry bush or 200-250 grams of Kemira-universal fertilizer (currently produced by the Fertiko company) or Polish fertilizer Florovit.
Scheme for applying mineral fertilizers.
For one two-year-old bush, 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer is applied, for a three-year-old bush - 2, for a four-year-old plant - 4, for a five-year-old plant - 8, for a six-year and older bush - 16 tablespoons of complete mineral fertilizer.
Do not add organic fertilizers (manure, chicken droppings, even compost).
How to protect blueberry seedlings from frost?
Highbush blueberry able to tolerate frosts down to -23-25 °C (certain varieties, for example, up to -27-30 °C).
In severe snowless winters, there is a possibility of bushes freezing.
On personal plots blueberry bushes can be tied spruce branches or cover with spunbond, preferably burlap (under no circumstances use plastic film) after making a frame of stakes or two wire arches located crosswise near the bushes.
During the growing season(plant growth) a large dose should not be applied to blueberry bushes nitrogen fertilizers, especially after flowering, so as not to cause the growth of shoots in late autumn. If there is an excess of nitrogen, some of the shoots will freeze in winter (the entire bush may die).
During flowering, blueberries tolerate frosts down to -7 °C. Therefore, in spring period protection is rarely needed. in autumn, during berry ripening, frost can damage late-ripening blueberry varieties. Green berries are damaged at temperatures of -2 °C. Therefore, to protect blueberry bushes in the autumn, it is necessary to use sprinkling or covering with any available material: spunbond or burlap.
When and how should you start pruning blueberry bushes?
Pruning blueberry bushes can be done on 2-4 year old plants, for laying a strong skeleton of the bush. It is necessary to remove all fruit buds on the plant.
Further pruning is required after the 3rd year after planting (that is, the plant will already be 5-6 years old). Only small bushy growths at the base of the bush, diseased branches and branches lying on the ground are removed.
Annual pruning plan starting in the 4th year of blueberry growing:
1) it is necessary to cut off low spreading branches near the ground, preserving only erect growths;
2) if the middle of the bush is thickened, then inside it you need to cut out weak and very old branches;
3) majority small thin branches are removed, leaving strong skeletal branches and escapes. Of the annual shoots, it is advisable to leave the 5 strongest ones.
Blueberries bear fruit on the previous year's growth. The degree of pruning also depends on the intensity of shoot growth. If the variety is prone to strong shoot formation, such as, then severe pruning should be done.
Blueberries should be pruned in early spring, before the buds open. It is better to remove cut branches (shoots) from the site and burn them in order to prevent the development of diseases and pests on them after winter, which can cause infection for blueberry bushes.
Protecting a blueberry plantation from the winds.
If you plan to grow garden blueberries on an industrial scale, then to protect the plantings you should create garden protection strips near the blueberry plantation. It is better to use pine or alder as plants for shelterbelts. Spruce and birch are not suitable, as their roots are shallow and over time can become serious competitors to blueberry roots.
This berry and several varieties were considered garden blueberry. And in this article we will deal with landing issues garden blueberry and caring for her.
Blueberries are not one of those plants that can be said to be “planted and forgotten.” She will give us her delicious and healthy berries, only when correct landing and proper careful care.
Planting garden blueberries
Plant in a permanent place garden blueberries it is possible both in autumn and spring, but spring planting it is still preferable because the risk of young seedlings freezing in winter is reduced.
Blueberries are a very sun-loving plant and do not like cold winds, so it is best to plant them in a sunny place protected from the wind.
If you plant it in the shade of trees, the berries will be sour, and their quantity will not please you.
Blueberries are very demanding on soil and prefer to grow in an area with acidic soil (pH 3.5-4.5), not previously occupied by others. cultivated plants, since mycorrhiza living on the roots does not tolerate developed soil very well.
If you do not have such a place, then you should try to create it, based on the fact that blueberries love peaty-sandy or peaty-loamy well-drained soils.
To do this, we dig a hole measuring 60x60 cm and 50 cm deep; it is advisable to loosen the surface of the bottom and walls of the hole a little, so that over time they do not become dense and do not impede the flow of water and air.
Then we fill the pit with slightly decomposed high peat or a mixture of peat, sawdust, fallen pine needles and sand, and also add 40-60 g of sulfur to the pit (for acidification), mix and compact everything. In other words, we make an acidic substrate, in which blueberries love to grow.
You can also use a solution of citric or oxalic acid to acidify the soil (add 3 teaspoons of acid per 10 liters of water), as well as malic acid or 9% acetic acid (100 ml of acid per 10 liters of water).
For now, there is no need to add any fertilizers to the planting hole, especially organic ones, which alkalize the soil.
It is best to buy blueberry seedlings with a closed root system (in pots or containers), and then it is very important to plant them correctly.
In no case should you simply transfer a seedling from a container into a hole, since the tender roots of blueberries will not be able to turn to the sides in a dense clod of earth and the root system will not be able to develop normally; therefore, the plant will most likely die in a few years.
To prevent this from happening, before planting, it is necessary to immerse the container with the seedling in water for only 10-15 minutes, then remove the plant from the container and try to very carefully knead this earthen lump, and if the roots are tightly entwined in the ground, then you need to carefully straighten them with your hands.
We plant the seedling 5-6 cm deeper, as it grew in the container, water it and mulch it with sawdust (or some other mulch).
Mulch in the summer can protect against weeds, retain moisture, and simply serve as additional fertilizer; in winter it will protect the roots from freezing.
How to care for blueberries?
Regular weeding is of great importance when caring for blueberries. Especially while the bushes are young, weeds are worst enemies blueberries
Loosening is no less important, but we should not forget that the root system lies at a depth of 20-40 cm and, therefore, we should loosen the tree trunk circles to a depth of no more than 8-10 cm.
During the growing season of the plant, it is advisable to mulch the trunk circles 2-3 times with a mixture of sawdust and rotted manure.
Water regime is very important
When growing blueberries, it is necessary to constantly monitor the water regime, since this plant needs moisture. It is very important to prevent the soil from drying out.
Until the blueberry seedling takes root, the soil must be constantly moist.
And for several weeks you need to maintain watering two or three times a day.
And, in the future, if the weather is dry, blueberries need to be watered twice a week and it is better to do this in the morning and evening.
And in hot weather, it is also advisable to spray the bushes with cold water.
In July-August, when the bushes bear fruit and lay flower buds for the future harvest, blueberries really need abundant watering.
But, at the same time, although blueberries are a very moisture-loving plant, excess moisture is also contraindicated for it, so stagnation of water should be avoided.
When should you prune blueberry bushes?
It is not recommended to prune blueberries when they are young. You can only early spring(before the buds swell), cut out diseased, broken, weak and frozen branches from non-fruiting bushes, creeping along the ground.
But by the age of 10-12 years the bush begins to chop the berries and reduce the yield.
Therefore, it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, which can be done in two ways:
- Immediately in one year we remove all old branches. The disadvantage of this method is that there will be significant yield loss within 2-3 years.
- In the first year of pruning, we remove only part of the old branches, and leave the rest for fruiting. And then next year, when the young shoots grow, we remove the remaining old ones.
Plant nutrition
To improve growth and increase yield, blueberries are well fed mineral fertilizers, while organic fertilizers it is simply contraindicated.
We feed the blueberries once when the buds swell, and the second time after 6-7 weeks.
Feeding blueberries should begin in the second year of cultivation:
- For a two-year-old bush, apply 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer,
- for a three year old - 2 tablespoons,
- for a four year old - 4 tablespoons,
- for a five year old - 8 tablespoons,
- for six years and older - 16 tablespoons.
By appearance It is very easy to determine from blueberries which mineral elements it is currently lacking.
So, for example, if you are missing:
- nitrogen- shoot growth slows down, old leaves become yellowish-green, and if the nitrogen deficiency is significant, then the entire bush looks yellowish-green, then a reddish tint appears on the leaves and the yield decreases, the berries become smaller;
- phosphorus- the leaves are pressed closely to the stem and acquire a purple tint;
- potassium- the tips of the leaves die off, spots appear, the tops of young shoots turn black and die;
- calcium- the leaves become deformed and their edges become yellow;
- magnesium- the leaves have red edges, but at the same time the green color remains near the midrib;
- boron- the apical leaves acquire a blue color, yellowing appears between the veins of old leaves, the growth of shoots stops, and then they die;
- gland- on young apical leaves yellowing appears between the veins, a network of green veins is formed against the background of the yellow color of the entire leaf;
- sulfur- the leaves acquire a yellowish-white color, and sometimes become completely white.
Knowing these signs, you can determine with great certainty which elements the plant lacks and promptly compensate for this deficiency by additionally feeding it with appropriate mineral fertilizers.
Shelter for the winter
In most cases, the frost resistance limit highbush blueberry The temperature is minus 23-25 degrees and, of course, the probability of freezing is especially high in a snowless winter.
If you planted late-ripening varieties, then do not forget that they often suffer from early autumn frosts and, therefore, these varieties must be covered first non-woven material or burlap.
Preparing bushes for wintering should begin in advance.
The branches must be bent to the ground; for this you can use twine or wire arches, placing them in a cross.
Then, with the onset of stable frosts, we cover the bushes with non-woven material, burlap.
But it is better not to use plastic film.
You can throw spruce branches on top. In winter, the bushes can also be sprinkled with crumbly snow so that the tops of the stems are always under a white blanket.
With the onset of spring, we remove the cover and cut off the ends of the frozen branches.
Blueberry flowers usually do not need protection from spring cold snaps, as they can tolerate frosts up to 7 degrees.
Harvesting
The timing of berry picking depends on what varieties we planted. So if the blueberry variety is:
- early ripening, then we begin to harvest the berries from the first ten days of July;
- if mid-season - from the second or third decade of July;
- and late-ripening - from the second or third ten days of August.
Blueberry fruits do not ripen at the same time, so harvesting on the bush lasts more than a month.
The first sign that blueberries are beginning to ripen is the berries changing from green to bluish-purple. This means that in a week, if the weather is good, the berries will already ripen.
It is necessary to remove from the bush only those berries that are easily separated from the brush with a dry tear.
The largest, most attractive and tasty are the berries of the first and second harvests, so they are best consumed fresh.
And the berries of the following harvests are much smaller and I recommend using them for processing.
Now we know almost everything about this wonderful berry. We just have to consider: how blueberries reproduce; what diseases and pests bother her; how to deal with them. But we'll talk about this later.
See you soon, dear friends!
Blueberries are a sun-loving crop; for a rich harvest of tasty berries, each branch must receive a sufficient amount of light. On thickened bushes, the fruits become small and sour. To create optimal illumination for each plant, pruning is carried out. It can be divided into sanitary, formative and rejuvenating. In this article we will tell you how to prune blueberries in the fall for beginning gardeners.
Types of blueberry pruning
Features of pruning depend on the variety, specific growth and age of the bushes.
| Types of pruning | Nature of pruning |
| Sanitary | Needed to remove dry, broken and infected shoots. It is carried out at any time of the year when the need arises, but more often in the spring, when you can see how the bushes have overwintered. This pruning is also necessary in the fall to prevent diseases. |
| Forming | Suitable for bushes that are at least four years old. This method is necessary for thinning the crown so that some branches do not shade others. |
| Rejuvenating | At the age of ten, branches that are more than 6 years old are cut out on Blueberries in order to make room for young shoots. |
Pruning seedlings during planting
Best planting material– these are seedlings in containers. Rooted bushes begin to go on sale at the age of one year or more. Young specimens do not need pruning. Blueberry seedlings that are more than three years old are shortened by half after planting, and weak and thin shoots are completely removed. This procedure is necessary for better rooting.
With such pruning, nutrients V to a greater extent concentrated in the underground part of the bush and minimally in the stems and leaves. The goal of the first year is successful establishment of blueberries. If flowering buds appear in the spring in the first year, they are removed in order to direct all efforts to forming as many shoots as possible to plant the future harvest.
Pruning for thinning and shortening shoots
Young blueberries are pruned harder for better tillering. In subsequent years, the intensity of thinning depends on the blueberry variety. Among the low-growing but powerful bushes that need care:
- Notrecountry;
- Blugold;
- Chipleva.
Starting from the third year, the bushes are thinned out to stimulate the growth of new flower shoots. For this purpose, only those that are fully illuminated are left. Old branches are pinched to increase the size of the remaining fruits. Large but erect varieties, such as Duke, Bluecrop, Elliot, Spartan, Brigitte Blue, are pruned to a lesser extent.
The structure of these bushes is such that their crown is evenly distributed and does not require frequent pruning. With the exception of branches that create density inside the crown. Work with such hybrids at a young age is carried out once every 2–3 years.
Variety "Duke" - a representative of upright blueberry bushes Medium- and vigorous-growing hybrids with a spreading crown are pruned according to the following scheme:
- curved lower branches are removed completely to the ground, leaving only straight, well-lit ones;
- the middle of the crown is cleared of old weak and non-fruiting shoots;
- broken and infected parts are cut off, regardless of the age of growth;
As a result, 5 skeletal young branches with flower buds and 6 - 8 young annual shoots should remain. In blueberries, the berries ripen on the branches of the previous (second) year, there are more of them left than others, and the young growth that replaces the cut branches is aimed at the next year's harvest. The remaining crown with thickened flower buds is shortened by 1/3. This is how the quality and quantity of the harvest are regulated.
Tip #1. Annual pruning is carried out starting from the age of five years, with the aim of constantly replacing old branches with young shoots.
Anti-aging pruning of blueberry bushes
From the age of 8 years, blueberry productivity decreases due to the intensive growth of green mass. If this feature is left unchanged, fruiting decreases sharply and may stop altogether. To maintain the productivity of the bushes, it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning.
If pruning is not carried out regularly, but is done occasionally, then the thickening of the bush will lead to loss of yield. Annual thinning of blueberries allows you to optimally form the crown and achieve the maximum possible fruiting.
Pruning times at different times of the year
IN different regions spring pruning begins taking into account weather conditions, if the heat comes early, work begins in March, in areas with a colder climate in April - May. In any case, you need to focus on vegetative features blueberries until the buds open. At this time, all the errors are clearly visible, which indicate an unfavorable wintering.
Overwintered branches can be easily lifted, but those that remain lying should be removed. Those parts of the bush on which traces of rot or other damage are clearly visible are also subject to liquidation. They are not just cut out, but also subject to burning. This is necessary to prevent the spread of diseases.
Bushes that have survived the winter without shelter are also subject to revision. Even if all the skeletal branches remain in good condition, special attention You need to pay attention to thin shoots, it is on them that the fruit buds are laid. The ends of branches are especially affected; they can freeze. They are removed down to living tissue.
Tip #2. In the spring, they get rid of intertwined parts of the crown. This intersection makes it difficult for air and light to enter the middle of the bush, which negatively affects the quality of the crop.
In summer, as a rule, blueberries are not pruned because the bushes bloom and bear fruit. Work is carried out in case of emergency, when it is necessary to remove broken branches. In the fall, before wintering, sanitary pruning is carried out, and coarse woody branches that cannot be bent to the ground are removed.
Preparing bushes for pruning
Branches that are cut off completely should not leave stumps, so that the dried remains do not rot, attracting pathogens and pests. Before starting work, tools are treated with antiseptic agents. Infection can spread not only by wind, but also by working parts of equipment. The following substances are used for prevention:
- alcohol solution 72 – 96%;
- chlorhexidine diluconate;
- potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
These drugs can be purchased at the pharmacy. It is necessary to process the cutting parts of tools not only before the main work, but also when moving from one bush to another. Pathogens and pests can overwinter and reproduce in mulch. At the slightest sign of infection, the litter is burned.
Blueberry care after pruning
Shaping pruning of high blueberry bush Sections larger than 2 cm in diameter are processed protective equipment. The most commonly used is garden pitch or modern drugs like "RanNet". In spring and autumn, the blueberry crown and the soil around the bush are sprayed with Carbamide (Urea) to prevent diseases.
During the period of intensive growth, the use of growth stimulants, for example, Epin, gives good results. This remedy not only promotes the regrowth of young shoots, but also increases the immunity of plants.
The condition of the mulch must be constantly monitored. In spring and throughout vegetative period make sure that the litter does not become compacted or rotted. If necessary, the mulch is replaced partially or completely. Unusable material is burned to avoid plant contamination.
Tools needed for pruning
Secateurs for trimming shoots 1.5 – 2 cm in diameter Comparative characteristics of tools for pruning blueberries are presented in the table. Using the example of the tools given in the table, you can see design features, which you need to pay attention to when choosing equipment for pruning blueberries.
| Name
tool |
Tool brand | Characteristic |
| Secateurs | Center tool – 1141 | The maximum cutting diameter is 2.5 cm. Equipped with a self-cleaning groove, which prevents the blades from sticking. |
| Michurinsky – CI 0449 | With Teflon coating on the cutting blade, which extends the durability of the tool. Equipped with comfortable handles. | |
| Lopper | Fiskars (L) L – 77, 1000583 | Contact design with rigid handles. Cuts branches up to diameter 5 cm. Equipped with a power mechanism that makes the effort 3 times easier. |
| Grinda – 8 -424391_z01 | WITH telescopic handles, which extend up to 1m. Has a ratcheting mechanism, it greatly improves the cutting performance. | |
| Hacksaw | Opinel No. 12 – 165126 (France) | Special sharpening of teeth designed for cutting living wood. Beech wood handle. The hacksaw is foldable, convenient and safe for transportation. A special ring fixes the working position and does not allow the hacksaw to fold. |
| Palisad – 236025 | The handle is two-component, which ensures comfortable placement in the hand. The hacksaw comes with a carrying case. |
Rubric for gardeners “Questions and answers”
Question No. 1. Do you have to prune blueberries every year?
Preferably starting from the second year. Pruning at a young age forms the crown and promotes the formation of flower buds, that is, it affects the amount of harvest.
Question No. 2. Why prune blueberries in the fall?
This crop bears fruit on the shoots of the second year. When they have completed their function, they are removed to improve the regrowth of young shoots.
Question No. 3. Do blueberries need to be covered for the winter?
If the selected varieties tolerate frost in a given area, then blueberries do not need shelter. Protection is necessary if low temperatures exceed the resistance of plants to their limiting conditions.
Question No. 4. Our bushes are already 10 years old. The harvest has decreased significantly. Is it possible to resume it?
It is necessary to carry out complete rejuvenation, cutting the bush completely to the ground. A new crown will grow over the summer, but the harvest will appear only in the third year.
Question No. 5. Do I need to trim blueberry roots when planting?
No, blueberry roots are very delicate, you just need to straighten them, freeing them from the compacted lump of soil.
Mistakes when pruning blueberries
- Do not remove mulch before pruning. Leads to stumps that rot and attract disease. Before starting work, the bushes must be cleared of needles right down to the ground. After pruning mulch good quality returned to its place, unusable - burned.
- Insufficient crown thinning blocks access of light to all branches, sun rays do not penetrate inside the crown and berries are formed only at the ends of the shoots, which reduces the number of fruits.
- Leaving old branches does not allow you to fully cover blueberries for the winter. When bent, the shoots may break or are not located low enough from the ground, which reduces the protective effect.