To grow grapes on your plot, it is not enough to simply plant them and wait for the harvest. The vine must be looked after, and for this you should know about it.

Grapes are a vine plant (climbing, climbing), that is, they cannot grow without support. The root system and stem grow very quickly. If the plant does not receive proper care, its shoots reach very large sizes and are highly branched. Such grapes enter the fruiting phase very late, and their harvest is not pleasing with regularity and abundance.

A vine, like all trees, consists of a rhizome, a trunk (trunk) and a crown (sleeves and shoots). Underground standard- nothing more than a cutting that was planted in the ground and from which a bush grew. Its lower and lateral parts give rise to the root system, the upper buds form the above-ground part of the bush. Over the course of 3-4 years, these eyes grow sleeves(or shoulders), which are the basis of the plant. When forming a bush, they are left from 1 to 6 pieces.

The top of the underground trunk is called head. The trunk, head and shoulders upon reaching 2 years of age begin to be called oldwood.

Fruitful shoots are only green, not lignified, which developed from the buds of annual vines. Therefore for bountiful harvest It is so important to carry out timely pruning.

At the head of the bush there are dormant buds, which serve to restore the plant when it freezes or if pruning was done too hard. These kidneys remain in an unchanged state, awakening only in these cases. This is how nature took care of preserving the life of the grape bush.

On the run with reverse side Tendrils develop from the leaf, with which the vine is secured to the support. When forming a bush on trellises or arbors, it is advisable to thin out the tendrils so that the inflorescences receive more nutrients.

Inflorescences begin to form in autumn. Grape flowers are female, male and bisexual. If the plant is female, then to get a harvest you need to plant a male or bisexual bush. It is not difficult to distinguish the sex of a flower: in male flowers the stamens are highly developed, and the pistil is underdeveloped; in female flowers, on the contrary, the pistil is highly developed.

Phases of the vegetative period

Annual growth cycle grapevine is divided into a dormant period and a growing season. The growing season consists of six phases.

1. Sap flow, or “crying”. The flow of sap through the branches begins when the soil temperature at a depth of 40-50 cm rises to + 8... +10 degrees Celsius. Pruning should be completely completed by this time. The more juice the trimmed shoots release, the more viable they are. During the “crying” process, cuttings are prepared for subsequent planting.
2. Growth phase. The length of young shoots increases by 6-10 cm daily. When they reach a length of 35-50 cm, the first garter is made. The inflorescences are also inspected and the weakest ones are removed. At this time, the bush must be fed and treated with substances that protect the plant from diseases and pests.
3. Bloom. In the flowering phase, young shoots are tied a second time and placed on a trellis. In unfavorable weather conditions, artificial pollination is carried out.
4. Berry growth. This time does not require any action from the winegrower.
5. Fruit ripening. Undoubtedly, you want to harvest the harvest quickly, but until the berries are ripe, you need to carry out a number of activities. The efforts made by the winegrower in this phase are aimed at obtaining more nutrients for the berries, and therefore at improving the quality of the harvest.

The first event will be coinage- that is, shortening the shoots by 15-20%. You need to pay attention to the crown (top) of the shoot. If it is straight (not arched), it means that the growth of the branch has already ended and chasing will not be able to cause the formation of stepsons (2nd order shoots). It's time to measure the length of the shoot and cut off its upper part. If the length of the vine is 1 meter, 15-20 cm are cut, if more or less - in percentage terms.

So that the berries get more sunlight, you can thin out the leaves.

Also, during the ripening of the berries, the plant should be fertilized and treated against pests and possible diseases. And of course, when the bunches get heavier and the berries fill with color and juice, the most favorite time of all gardeners begins - harvesting.

• Leaf fall. When photosynthesis and sap flow stop, the leaves begin to fall off. Until average daily temperatures drop below 0 degrees, you should cut off fruiting shoots, plow the ground around the bushes, apply fertilizer, hill up the plant heads and cover the vines for the winter.

What do grapes like?

For rooting and growth, a grape bush does not require much: warmth, water, light, soil and care.

The plant is not too picky about the soil. The only thing it cannot tolerate is salt marshes and rising groundwater. The rest of the soils, even if they are not ideal for viticulture, can be brought to acceptable quality on their own.

So, when planting a cutting in clay soil, you need to make drainage in the planting hole, which will prevent excess moisture from accumulating.

When constructing a planting hole in a peat bog, sand should be added to the soil removed from it.

If the soil is sandy, it should be amended with manure or compost.

Lime is added to acidic soil.

Grapes love water, but don’t like too much of it. Therefore, when growing it in regions with frequent rains, it is imperative to provide the root system with good drainage.

The vine grows well in warm time year. Dark grape varieties are more heat-loving than light ones. However, when the thermometer rises above +38 degrees Celsius, shoot growth becomes noticeably slower.

Sunlight is also very important for the growth and ripening of berries, but partial shade does not disrupt the phases of the plant's growing season.

So that the bush can absorb all the warmth and light that the sun can give it, cuttings are planted on the south side of the site. If this is not possible, then the plant should be planted in trenches 40-50 cm deep so that the roots are reliably protected from freezing.

How can a grapevine hurt?

High humidity, insect pests, aggressive atmospheric conditions, as well as improper grafting and pruning of shoots can provoke Cancer(goiter). This disease looks like an inflating bubble under the bark of a plant. Gradually increasing in size (can reach a diameter of 30 cm), it breaks the bark and protrudes to the surface.

Grapevine cancer can be treated only by cutting off the affected areas and necessarily burning them. The instrument must be disinfected with a 5% formaldehyde solution, sections are treated with solutions of ferrous sulfate (5%) and Bordeaux mixture(3%). Do not use nitrogen fertilizers in the next 2-3 years.

Brown spots on young shoots, leaves and berries are anthracnose. On the leaves, the affected areas dry out and fall out, forming holes. Ulcers develop on the shoots and fruits, and branches above the affected areas break off.

Diseased parts of the plant are removed. Prevention comes down to treating bushes with iron sulfate in spring or autumn. When the buds bloom, they must be pollinated with sulfur or treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%).

“Oily” light green spots on the leaves, the “underside” of which becomes covered with gray fluff when the air humidity rises – false powdery mildew, or mildew. The disease affects all parts of the plant. The most dangerous period for the vine is the end of spring - the beginning of summer, when weather conditions are favorable for the development of the disease.

To preserve the shoots, before the flowering phase, when young branches reach a maximum of 35 cm, the bushes need to be sprayed with preparations containing copper. Repeat the procedure after 2 weeks. If the summer is rainy, treatment should be carried out once a week.

If red spots with yellow or light green borders appear on the leaves of dark grape varieties between the large veins, and on the leaves light varieties– yellow, the bush is sick rubella.

To combat this disease, the vineyard is sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%) at the beginning of the growth phase of young shoots. Then follow the same pattern as when fighting mildew. Preventive measures include cleaning and burning fallen leaves in the fall, since the pathogen lives in them.

Leaves and inflorescences that look as if they are entangled in a fine, fine web, which then turns into an ash-like coating - this is powdery mildew, or oidium. The fungus that causes this dangerous disease, very tenacious.

The use of sulfur either in the form of dusting or in the form of spraying with a solution of its colloidal form (1%) is effective against the disease. The procedure must be repeated every 10-12 days until the fruit begins to ripen. After harvesting, the bushes need to be treated with a urea solution (8-10%). When leaf fall ends, the leaves are collected and burned.

A plant infected with oidium is unsuitable for cuttings.

Brown spots on the shoots, which become black as they increase in size, indicate infection spotted anthracnose. With this disease, the leaves become covered with brown or gray spots with a reddish or brown border, the berries are covered with dirty white or light brown “depressed” spots. The disease is provoked by excess moisture, excess nitrogen in the soil, and excessive density of bushes.

Control measures consist of treating the above-ground parts of the plant with a solution of copper or iron sulfate (6%) early spring, in thinning the bushes, controlling the frequency of watering in the summer, thoroughly cleaning the vineyard from dry parts, collecting and destroying fallen leaves in the fall.

If in the summer the leaves begin to turn yellow in such a way that the veins remain green, the growth of shoots stops, their crowns die, it means that the vine’s metabolism is impaired and it gets sick chlorosis. There are a lot of reasons leading to chlorosis, and it is not easy to say which one caused it in a particular case.

To preserve the bush, it is necessary to control the frequency of watering (it should be sufficient, but not excessive), exclude organic fertilizers Before the manifestations of the disease disappear, treat with iron sulfate (15% solution) in the fall and also apply it to the soil.

Most effective method The fight against chlorosis is soil acidification. A hole is dug 40 cm from the old wood, into which a solution of technical sulfuric acid (1.7%) is poured.

Yellowish spots on the leaves with a red border, which over time change color to brown and have a greenish coating on the “wrong side”, similar to velvet, is green mold, or cercospora.

To protect the plant from disease, it is necessary to remove and burn fallen leaves in the fall, and in the spring, when flowering ends and fruit growth is just beginning, the vineyard should be sprayed with calcium polysulfide.

Brown spots on leaves with black seals along the veins - the first manifestation black rot. Then spots form brown on the berries, which are “pressed in” and quickly shrink.

You can save the plant by spraying it with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%). The first treatment is carried out immediately when the disease is detected, then approximately once every 2 weeks.
If brownish spots appear on the leaves with compactions along the veins of a dirty white color, the berries also acquire a brown color with a red or blue tint and many dirty white tubercles - this is white rot. Precipitation in the form of hail and sunburn increase the likelihood of infection.

The disease develops quickly, so you need to act immediately. Immediately after the hail, a mixture of sulfur, cement and soda (proportion 15: 8: 2) or a solution of Bordeaux mixture (4%) is prepared and the grape bushes are processed.

Good results are obtained by using a 0.5% solution of calcium (or potassium) bisulfite.

Yellow spots on the leaves, which over time acquire the color of rust, and a fluffy grayish coating on the berries - this is how they make themselves felt gray moldy rot. The disease develops in wet weather and can destroy the entire crop. However, if the humidity is moderate and the fungus does not have time to grow much, such berries are of particular value to winemakers and drink lovers. In this case, grape rot is called “noble rot”.

This disease cannot be treated, but prevention reduces the likelihood of its occurrence to zero. It consists in correct formation bush so that the shoots receive sufficient light and heat, and are also well ventilated. Weeding and loosening the soil around the trunk is also important. Spraying the bunches with an iodine solution (30-50 drops per bucket of water) or a solution of green soap (1%) protects well against gray moldy rot.

In addition to the diseases listed, there are several less common ones. A novice winegrower may be confused by their abundance, but what is worth paying attention to is that the measures to prevent all diseases are almost the same. That's why timely care(shaping, spraying, fertilizing, harvesting leaves) is so important, and with a responsible approach, the plant will not be afraid of diseases. And it will spend all its resources on providing the winegrower with an abundant and high-quality harvest.

Hello dear readers of the blog “In the garden, or in my vegetable garden.”

In this article we will look at several cases of abnormal development grapevine, although the pruning was carried out as it should. The fruiting link was formed correctly, but over the summer, either no shoots grew on the replacement branch at all, or only one of two grapevines developed. What to do in these cases and how to prune, from what to form a fruit link in the fall?
To begin with, I would like to remind winegrowers not to forget about knot replacement throughout the entire growing season. The vines were tied up on the replacement knot in a timely manner, doubles and tees were broken out in time, pinched, and chasing was carried out in August for the successful ripening of the vines. Then you will not have problems with vines on replacement branches and you will not have to think about what to form a fruit link from in the fall when pruning.

Three cases of abnormal development

grapevine

Let us now consider in detail if something went wrong during the development of shoots on the replacement knot.
1 case - On the replacement shoot, only one vine has developed, instead of two, and on the fruit-bearing vine there are well-developed vines.
We cut the vine on a replacement knot into two or three buds, we get a new replacement knot. (Fig. 1)
On a fruit-bearing vine, we select two well-ripened vines and prune them. The eyes should be left depending on the thickness of the vine: 1 mm - 1 eye, the lower vine should be cut two eyes shorter than the upper one. Thus we direct nutrients to the bunches, loading the top vine. When we leave two vines for fruiting on one sleeve, we always adhere to this rule.
Case 2 – one good vine with a diameter of at least 7 mm grew on the replacement branch, and on the fruit-bearing vine the shoots were undeveloped, thin and weak, not suitable for the formation of vines for fruiting. (Fig.2)
We cut the vine on the replacement knot into 7-12 buds, and form it into a fruit vine. And we remove the fruiting vine with undeveloped shoots completely. We are left without a replacement knot, so in the fall we will form the fruit link on the fruit-bearing vine. How? Read below.
Case 3 – not a single shoot developed on the replacement branch. We will form the fruiting link on the fruit-bearing vine, and we will remove the replacement knot completely. (Fig. 3)
We inspect the shoots of the fruit-bearing vine, select a replacement knot, it should be on the outside, we cut it into 2-3 eyes.

We remove all lower shoots.

From the shoots that are located above the replacement knot, we select the two strongest shoots and form fruit vines from them.

We also calculate the number of eyes based on the thickness of the vines, and remove the remaining vines.
In the article you learned how to shape and trim grapes if the grapevine suddenly developed incorrectly . Anything can happen in life, you need to know what to do in these cases.

There is hardly another plant in the world that is so cared for and nurtured in gardens in the south and north, studied far and wide and revered as the greatest gift of nature.

Repeated mention in the Bible, a special science that studies only this plant, a branch of medicine that treats diseases with the help of juice and wine from it - all this confirms the uniqueness of grapes.

The vine was sung in poetry, immortalized in the world's masterpieces of painting, and described in medical treatises. And it is, of course, worth it.

The grapevine is a resilient plant. IN southern countries it endures drought for several months. In cold areas it does not freeze out at low temperatures of -20 °C. The grape bush grows well on infertile sandy and rocky soils.

The structure of the grapevine is the main reason for the plant’s high adaptability to different weather conditions.

Grape bush in general view no different from the structure of any plant:

• root system;
• trunk;
• crown.

The root system of the plant is very strong. Sometimes it goes deep into the ground up to six meters, providing the vine with water and nutrition.

Important! The root, in addition to the function of retention and provision, carries out the work of accumulating nutrients.

The structure of the roots is complex. According to the time of growth, roots are old (skeletal) and young (overgrowing). The roots grow all year round at +9 °C and above.

The root stem very firmly anchors the plant in the ground and ends with a heel. This is a cutting that was planted in the ground. The top of the cutting is called the head. Here are dormant buds that wake up when the bush freezes or is heavily pruned.

Based on their location, roots are divided into superficial, lateral and main. Surface or dew roots grow at the top, capturing and consuming rain moisture.

Heel (main) and median (lateral) roots absorb and accumulate nutrients, extract water from the depths of the soil.

The trunk is the most weak point grape vines. Over time, it only grows in breadth.
The crown of the vine consists of sleeves and shoots. Buds, inflorescences, ovaries, berry clusters, tendrils, and leaves develop on them.

Sleeves or shoulders are perennial shoots with dark bark, cut to 35 cm. They serve as skeletal branches, and fruiting branches develop on them.

Annual vine - two-year-old shoot with matured bark chocolate color– a young shoot with clusters is growing on it this season. They are shortened to 30 cm.

Fruit shoots (fruit shoots) - this year's shoots with green bark bear the main leaf load, inflorescences develop on them and clusters ripen. The shoot is shortened by 4–15 buds and removed in the fall after fruiting.

Side shoots or coppice shoots are unwanted shoots that usually grow on old trees. The berries that grow on them are underdeveloped and sour. In summer they are removed.

A fattening shoot or top is a green shoot, the length and thickness of which is noticeably greater than the neighboring vines. Appear after frosting or improper pruning of the bush. Usually removed immediately after regrowth.

A stepson is a young shoot growing from the axils of the leaves of the main shoots.

Bud – a leaf or shoot grows from it.

A leaf is a respiratory and nutritional organ, consisting of a leaf blade and a petiole.

The tendrils are a climbing organ with which the vine is held horizontally or vertical surfaces. After fruiting, the mustache will become woody.

Inflorescences are degenerated tendrils, containing male and female flowers. Clusters of berries develop from them.

Ovary – green berries, formed from the inflorescence after flowering.

Important! The grapevine, thanks to its structure and constant renewal, can live for several hundred years and still actively bear fruit.

Wine made from berries collected from old grape bushes is very highly prized.

Care

If you study the structure of the grapevine well, you can easily understand the basic rules for caring for the plant.

Grapes grow well in any soil except waterlogged soil. It is important for it to get enough heat, so planting is done on the southern and southwestern slopes with maximum illumination or on well-lit flat areas.

After selection right place landing, you should take care of others necessary work in the vineyard:

• installation of trellises;
• laying a drainage pipe;
• garter;
• pruning;
• watering;
• treatment for diseases;
• protection against wasps

Grapevine care is described in many books in great detail. But when growing grapes, a lot of small questions always arise, the answer to which can only be found after purchasing own experience.

Trellis

Typically, trellises are installed in united long rows in the direction from north to south. Standard height- 2.2 m, distance between rows - 2.5 m. The first wire is pulled at a height of 50 cm from the ground, all subsequent ones - at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

Important! The wire should be tensioned tightly, without sagging.

The designs of trellises are varied. Trellis allow you to place the sleeves closer to the sun and provide convenient collection harvest and pruning.

Drainage

Laying a drainage pipe at a depth of 80 cm will help the grapes feel great in any heat. Fertilizers, which are supplied through the pipe along with water, are absorbed by the roots instantly.

Trimming

Determining the degree of ripening by touch comes with experience. Beginning winegrowers can be advised to trim the top part of the vine with a white center, leaving shoots with a green interior.

Important! The main pruning is carried out in the fall after the leaves fly off. The cold and damp part of the stem is cut off, and the dry and warm part is left.

On a two-year-old sleeve, no more than 3-4 shoots of the current season are left. A new vine grows 0.5–1 m long. A three-year-old vine grows 10 m in a season. Grape rejuvenation occurs by shortening the old vine at the point where a strong new shoot grows.

Important! In spring, pruning is not done, since sap flow in the vine begins very early.

After spring pruning, the vine begins to “cry” and may leak juice and dry out. Pruning of dead or diseased sleeves after winter can be done no earlier than the second half of June, after the end of sap flow.

Watering

The grapevine needs watering especially three times per season:

• when buds open;
• after flowering;
• when the berries ripen.

Important! Do not water the plant before and during flowering, this will lead to the flowers falling off. You should also not water before harvesting the bunches, as the ripening of the berries is delayed.

Watering is carried out several times at the right time:

1. Spring moisture-recharging watering before the eyes open.
2. Vegetative watering is carried out once a week for a young plant and 2 times a month for an adult. 5–20 liters of water with 1 tbsp are poured under the bush. l. (per 10 l) Kemira combi fertilizers.
3. Autumn moisture-recharging watering is very important for the plant. It should not be allowed to hibernate on dry ground.

Protection

5–7 kg/sq.m. is poured under the bush. m. of humus, the prepared cut shoots are tied and treated with 5–7% iron sulfate against mold.

Important! Main protective treatment carried out in the fall, after harvesting and before covering for the winter.

Against ticks and sprayed with Tiovid or colloidal sulfur. A decoction of chamomile, tobacco or Rovikurt is used against the leaf roller. During this period, it is worth mixing fungicides and insecticides to spray the vines.

Chasing, that is, removing the upper part of the shoot with unripe leaves, and pinching reduces the number of gall mites by 90%.

In autumn, wasps turn from the winegrower's assistants into his headache. They eat up the sweet berries of ripe grapes, since the thin skin is unable to protect them. Treatment of bushes with Antitlin and “liquid smoke” will help to cope with this trouble. Wasps cannot tolerate the smell of smoke and tobacco.

Reproduction

Varietal grapes are not propagated by seeds, only vegetatively: by cuttings, layering, grafting.

Cuttings

For propagation by cuttings, first select a suitable mother bush - varietal, healthy, high-yielding. Then cuttings are cut from fully ripened annual fruit-bearing growths, choosing medium or bottom part vines In this case, top and coppice shoots are not suitable.

Important! The degree of maturity is determined using ordinary iodine. If you moisten the end of the vine in a 1% iodine solution, then mature vines will turn almost black, and underdeveloped ones will turn pale green.

The harvesting of chibouks in the southern regions takes place in the spring, in areas where grapes are a covering crop, in the fall, during pruning. The standard length of the shank is 60–70 cm, thickness 5–10 mm.

If possible, it is better to cut the vine into double pieces, doubling the length. The bottom of the shank is cut at a distance of 1–2 cm from the knot, and the top – in the middle between the knots.

To preserve the preparations until spring, the cuttings are immersed in a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate for 2 seconds, dried, tied into a bundle, tied with a tag and stored:

• underground in a hole;
• in a box with sand;
• in the refrigerator.

Overwintered chibouks are taken out of storage in advance and begin to be prepared for planting: they sort through, discard dried ones, refresh the cuts, apply furrows, soak in water, kilch, initial the upper cuts, and treat the lower cuts with stimulants.

Without the complex process of kilching, the cuttings take root well after two days of soaking, as well as planting lying down to a depth of no more than 10–15 cm. 2 buds remain above the ground, a bucket of water is poured under the seedling.

Be sure to ensure that the soil is constantly moist. Watering is repeated once every 2 weeks in the spring, and once a week in the summer.

Layerings

Reproduction of your favorite variety by layering allows you to quickly get a very strong fruit-bearing bush. Use mature and green vines.

The mature vine can be laid in the fall by selecting a couple of tops and placing them in grooves 25–30 cm deep and covering them with humus. Leaves, tendrils, and shoots are removed from the shoots.

In the spring, the pinned shoot is buried to a depth of 15 cm, covered with nutritious soil, and watered with water and potassium permanganate. Separation of the shoots is done after 2–3 years.

Green cuttings of the vine are rooted using the same technology, but the placement of the vine in the soil begins in the second half of July. In this case, the end of the green layer, left above the ground, is pinched above the 3rd leaf.

Graft

Always produced during the grape growing season. The use of vaccination can serve several purposes:

1. This is the most suitable way to replace the variety on the bushes.
2. Protection of plantings from the quarantine pest – phylloxera. Control tactics include grafting the variety onto pest-resistant rootstocks.

There are many methods of vaccination:

• into the cleft;
• into the side cut;
• copulation on a green shoot;
• budding.

Moreover, each method has several execution techniques, each method is good for its own time of implementation - spring, summer or autumn.

Conclusion

The grapevine is a true miracle of nature. Wherever this plant grows, it is revered and cherished; the secrets of its cultivation are passed on from generation to generation.

A novice gardener who has decided to start growing grapes simply needs to study the biology and structure of these amazing plants. Grapes are climbing plant, requiring support in order to develop. With all this, grapes also have the ability to take root due to the fact that its vine spreads along the ground.

The aboveground part of the grapevine grows very quickly. A mature grape vine reaches large sizes without human intervention. Its branches grow in different lengths and in different orders. This causes unstable and small harvests.

A vine can be compared to a small tree. Because, like a tree, a grapevine has:

• root;
• trunk;
• crowns

The trunk is the main part of the bush, from which fruitful branches are then formed. Eyes form on top of it, and roots form below. Over the course of 4 years, sleeves are formed, this is the basis of the bush. During the period when the plant begins to form, you need to leave from 1 to 6 sleeves. In addition, it is very important to know how to properly root a bush so that it grows and develops well.

The head is the top of an underground trunk. When the plant turns 2 years old, the head, shoulders and sleeves receive the name - old wood. Fruitful shoots are sprouts from a one-year-old vine. That is why, in order to have a rich harvest, it is necessary to carry out timely pruning. The grape vine is pruned for the first time 2 years after planting. In case the bush freezes or pruning is unsuccessful, dormant buds are located at the head of the bush. They awaken only in the previously mentioned cases. On the crowns, on the reverse side of the leaf, tendrils develop and grow, with the help of which the vine is tied to one or another support.

This is necessary so that the inflorescence receives more nutrients. Inflorescences appear in autumn, with the first flower appearing at the beginning of the decade.

The flowers of the vine are either female or male. There are also flowers that have 2 genders at the same time: the first is male and the second is female. If the bush is female, then it is necessary to plant a male plant or a bisexual bush next to it. How to find out what gender a plant is? This is not difficult: in a male plant, the stamens predominate, but the pistils remain underdeveloped, and the growths harm the bush. In female plants the opposite is true: the pistils are maximally developed.

The process of budding

The process of budding - the opening of the eyes that remain after circumcision, proper care At this time, the most important thing is that you need means of nourishment and protection. The first leaves hatch from them and quickly grow in a short period of time. This process occurs only when the air warms up to 8°C. But there are also varieties in which ripening occurs much faster. The vine absorbs carbohydrates from autumn reserves until the onset of this vegetative phase.

When the leaf reaches its peak development, the vine begins to feed itself through photosynthesis. The fact that the period of bud break has already begun is indicated by “crying”. Crying is popularly called the colorless juice that appears through damaged areas and cuts. At the end of the “crying”, it is noticeable to the naked eye that the kidney has increased significantly.

Bloom

The flowering period of grape vines occurs on average after 75 days, depending on the variety. The flowering process is virtually invisible. The pollination process takes place by pollination entering the opening of the pistil. If there was rain, hail or wind at the time of pollination, what winemakers call “bloom washout” occurs. After fertilization, pollen falls on the underside of new leaves. At this moment, a salivary secretion is released, which sucks out all the juice, as a result of which tuberosity can be observed on the leaf.

Fruit setting

Ripening berries

The coloring itself begins with the fact that the berry acquires a natural color for its variety. White grape varieties take on a yellowish tint. Red varieties turn bluish when ripe, but not all grapes ripen at the same time. The part of the bush that received more heat and light accumulates sugar much faster than those that were grown in the shade. With the coloring of the berries, the most critical phase of the growing season of the grapevine begins.

Growth and development of grapes

Grapes are a long-lived plant. At good conditions When grown in a favorable climate, it can live on average 25-35 years. If you take and study a grapevine, the above-ground trunk and sleeves begin to age first, the reason for this is constant damage due to cutting off old branches or simple injuries that occur as a result of tillage. The most tenacious places of the grape vine are the underground trunk and crown. Year after year, the vineyard experiences the same cycle of growth and development. The cycle is divided into two periods, determined by one time or another of the year.

The dormant period begins in November and lasts throughout the winter right up to the sap flow. The hibernating eye has following types rest:

1. Conditional is a period in which the grape bush is still developing, but is already laying eyes, thus preparing for winter. At favorable conditions they will open only next spring, although if the shoots are damaged or the growing point is removed, they can emerge much earlier and it is possible that in the same year.
2. Deep dormancy of wintering buds occurs mainly in the southern regions, where the buds will not wake up even with favorable weather, sufficient water and fertilizer.

Consequently, deep sleep continues until November. At the moment deep sleep all phases of development and growth on the surface are suspended, which cannot be said about root system. Throughout the winter, the roots absorb water with useful substances, replenishing its loss over time. autumn pruning. Moreover, it is worth remembering: the more the bush is pruned, the more water it will need to recover.

Growing season of grape vines

Sap flow begins at a time when the ground temperature at the depth of the main roots reaches 10. This is the biological starting temperature for many European grape varieties. IN different regions Warming up of the soil occurs in different ways, so sap flow begins at the same time for everyone.

As already mentioned, sap flow is crying. It is determined by heavy discharge colorless liquid from wounds resulting from circumcision. That is why experts strongly do not recommend bending or breaking branches when covering. According to scientists, negative impact has a strong release of sap. This only happens during soil drought, so it is necessary to tie it up correctly so that the flowing sap can fall vertically.

Growth of shoots and inflorescences

The growth of shoots and inflorescences lasts from the opening of the buds until flowering. The beginning of this phase depends on the air temperature and the grape variety. During this phase, shoots and leaves suddenly develop. A complete inflorescence is obtained due to the previously obtained useful substances that have accumulated in the wood of the grape vines. Once the reserves of the grape vines expire, they will draw nutrients from the carbohydrates produced by the roots of the grapevine.

It is recommended to prepare for flowering in advance. 2-3 weeks before flowering, you need to carry out root and foliar preparation, monitor the number of inflorescences. The flowering process begins differently for everyone, around the end of May - beginning of June. It all depends directly on how quickly the grapevine reaches the required amount of active temperatures. Flowering lasts on average 15-20 days, it all depends on weather conditions. If the temperature is unstable and the grapes do not receive enough heat, the fertilization process with pollen will not be possible.

Rain, hail, and fog can also prevent good fertilization. The pollen becomes wet, and this makes it poorly transferred to the flowers. But drought also does not contribute to good pollination. The pistils simply dry out and pollination does not occur.

Berry growth

If the berry grows 4-5 mm in size, its pores become denser, and treatment in this case will be effective. During the growth period, leaves actively appear on the grapevine, berries develop, but at the same moment the plant prepares its eyes for the winter. During such an active stage of development, you should not lose vigilance; you need to monitor the berries so that no rot appears and spots do not form on the leaves. To prevent such a disaster from happening to the grapevine, you need to feed the vine on time.

Ripening berries

In the initial period of the phase, as mentioned earlier, the berry changes its color and shape characteristic of the variety, becomes softer and sweeter, and by the end of ripening it becomes covered with a waxy coating. Along with it comes the ripening of shoots, which turn yellow-brown, depending on the variety. It is worth noting that there are no specific dates and periods for berry ripening. It all depends on the location of the vineyards, weather and climatic conditions, agricultural machinery, and soil fertilization.

It should be remembered that numerous shoots on the vine, abundant or late watering, and rains interfere with the growth of juicy berries and ultimately affect their quality.

During the ripening phase, it is necessary to carry out both root and surface feeding; in addition, it is important to monitor the signal from the plant protection station and provide timely care for the grapes from the leaf roller and the wolf mite.

Leaf fall

This is the last stage of the growing season, which almost never passes without the help of autumn frosts. After the leaves fall, the grapes remain in a stage of deep dormancy.

At this moment, you need to hurry with circumcision, preparing cuttings for propagation, introduce mineral fertilizers, calculate the required rate for each bush. Proper and complete care of the plant will definitely provide good flowering, growth, development, ripening of fruits.

Wire lattice systems are better suited for grapes. But growing on a fence allows the grapes to grow on limited space. Growing grapes on the pergola provides good shade for a pleasant and comfortable stay.

On at the moment popular throughout the country. More and more people are trying to grow their own “edible landscapes” because... They understand that grapes fit perfectly into any landscape and design. The grapes bear fruit within a few years after planting, the vine grows very quickly, but it can be restrained to fit on small space, there are varieties that are adapted to almost any climate in the country, grapes are long-lived, which makes it possible to obtain juicy bunches for wine, juice, and just food for many years.

In the Transcarpathian region, I saw vineyards that are already more than 50 years old, and the vine is still alive and produces a very good harvest every year.

And yet, there are gardeners who still ignore it, due to the fact that it needs pruning. At first glance pruning may seem difficult for an inexperienced gardener. However, you can learn quite quickly, with a good amount of care and trial and error, how to prune a grape vine so that you can keep it under control and produce a good harvest.

The grape is a strong plant and needs good pruning, removing more than 70% of the vine in winter gives better performance.

Grapes on the balcony

Circumcision of your foreigner First of all, it depends on how you grow it. If you grow it for food or, for maximum productivity, “tame” it to curl along the created fence (mesh). If the area is small, then you can grow grapevines in separate areas. To give a cozy look and a pleasant atmosphere, shade or as decoration, you can try growing grapes on a pergola. You can simply make a frame in the form of a gazebo, and then just adjust the vine. In particular, I grow grapes on the plot, and on, and even in the garage, which provides not only the grapes themselves, but also natural shade on hot summer days.

But no matter how you grow them, grapes should be in every yard. Don't let the necessary pruning stop you from trying to grow your own grapes.

Vine.

We must understand that the key to pruning grapes lies in their habit of bearing fruit. Grapes bear fruit best on annual shoots. If you have a lot of old vines (from not being pruned), then you will have fewer grapes. If you prune the grapes every year, you will get more new shoots, but again, only a few grapes.

During the first and second years, it is the same for all listed breeding methods. The goal is to develop a strong root system and trunk.

Plant the grapes near the stakes, attach them and make sure they grow vertically, then select the strongest shoots and leave them - let them grow. After this, pruning methods differ.

Grapes on the hedge.

Once you have chosen the main vine, allow two more vines to grow, forming on either side of the main vine, at approximately the height of your first horizontal wire (about a meter). Let the main vine grow further until it reaches one and a half meters. And let the other two develop on both sides of the main vine.

The first winter, we cut off the side shoots to the third knee, counting from the wire. We tie the remaining vine to a wire and remove all shoots and clusters in order to give energy to the growing roots and trunk.

In the second winter, we prune the side shoots, which have about 10 buds each. Next year they will grow again, but with clusters. We select four other shoots that are closer to the main trunk and trim them. They will recover next year.

In the third winter, we cut off the side shoots that bear fruit and trim them - this will speed up the renewal of shoots for the next year.

Repeat this process before each winter; up to 70% of the grapes must be removed.

Grapes on posts

If you don't have enough free space On, you can try growing grapes on poles. Drive a stake next to the vine and secure it securely. Let the vine grow up it, until the very end. Leave 4-5 shoots to grow and remove the rest.

First winter, reduce the vine on the sides - three knees on each. They will form shoots that will produce clusters next year. Remove any weak or thin growth, especially on the lower part of the trunk.

In the second winter, we prune like this - we select two shoots for renewal and trim them to three buds on each, we remove all other shoots. We repeat this pruning before each winter. Your vine should be able to support 4 to 7 shoots, which will bear fruit as the vine itself grows and gets stronger from year to year.

. (Pergola is a canopy, an extension for protection from the sun.)

Pergola in winter (Transcarpathia)

Do you like the thought of bunches of grapes hanging from a canopy, in the shade, on a hot summer day, then this is for you.

Make sure you build reliable design, capable of supporting the weight of the vine. It can be two, four or six pillars, depending on how and where the top of the structure is attached. The top can consist of planks with a cross-section of 5-10 cm using wooden slats; this is the base and is “tied together” with planks with a cross-section of 3-5 cm to create a lattice along which the vine weaves. You may need tie corners for even greater reliability.

Grow grapes you need to choose the strongest shoots. Allow them to grow in the first year to establish themselves on the pergola. During the first winter, let the side shoots grow at the top of the structure. If you just let the vine continue to grow, you will end up with thick shade but few grapes. Before each winter, reduce annual shoots, remove shoots that bear fruit to five to six clusters, and leave those that had 2-3 clusters. The goal is to keep the shoots 50 - 70 cm apart from each other. Remove all weak and thin shoots. Try to have enough vines to fruit on the trellis and fill the entire pergola, but not so many that the vines become a mess and chaos.

There is also a method increasing grape yields , by increasing the root system

That's it. I wish it to grow in the same way on your site, but how exactly, the choice is yours.

If you have something to add, please be sure to leave a comment.