Bookcases are functional, ergonomic and stylish interior items. Racks are placed in the living room, bedroom, and corridors. Furniture products vary in shape, size, design, materials, and internal filling. Do bookshelf do it yourself - a budget option. The project can be standard or original - created to fit the dimensions of the room and the required functionality.
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Types of bookcases in the interior - their advantages
Models of book shelving are divided into 2 types: closed and open.
The closed version of the furniture is the most gentle for paper products, since it does not allow dust, moisture, or direct rays of the sun to enter. The disadvantage of closed furniture systems is their massiveness. The designs are not suitable for compact spaces. In models with closed facades, 2 types of doors are used: compartment and hinged.
The open-type furniture façade provides direct access to publications. The models are aesthetic and spacious. Decorative items are also displayed on open surfaces. Racks are suitable for both spacious and small spaces. The disadvantages of the design are the lack of protection from the rays of the sun, moisture, and dust.
Printed materials in open-type structures will require regular maintenance. It is also necessary to pay attention to the humidity level in the room. Designers complement open bookshelves with blocks with doors - hinged or sliding. Additional elements for storage are located in the lower, upper or side parts of the structure.
Bookshelves are divided into horizontal and vertical. The execution option is determined in accordance with the dimensions and style of the room. Corner bookcases and products are distinguished by shape rectangular shape And round designs, as well as rack-type models.
Bookcases are available as cabinet, modular or built-in.
Cabinet structures for storing books and magazines are the most common in interior design. The filling and finishing of the furniture is selected in accordance with the design concept. The product can be with open shelves or with doors: sliding (compartment type), hinged, glazed, etc.
Modular furniture for books allows you to combine elements different heights, width, configuration. The design is universal because it can be located in rooms of different sizes. Modular furniture blocks are easy to disassemble and move.
The built-in design for books is represented by a system with sliding or swing doors. The furniture is large in size and has deep shelves. The peculiarity of the model is the fastening of parts to the ceiling, wall panels and floor.
Doors can be frame or glass. The frame parts of the doors are made of MDF boards lined with veneer or polyvinyl chloride film. The frames are made of aluminum with imitation metal or the frame is covered with a decorative film under valuable species wood
Bookcases with glass doors are aesthetically pleasing and make it easy to find required volumes without opening the doors. Solid wood furniture in combination with glass is used in high-tech, modern, and English classic styles.
Glass doors can be in the form of swinging doors, sliding panels, or bar glass. A slight tinting of glass is allowed, which will partially protect paper products from direct sun rays.
What to consider when drawing a cabinet drawing
Before manufacturing, it is necessary to think over the configuration of the product, its location, materials, textures. The optimal placement of a bookcase is in an office for work, living rooms, and spacious corridors. It is not recommended to install furniture under books in children's rooms and bedrooms, as printed materials contribute to the collection of dust.
When drawing up drawings of bookcases, the following dimensions are important: height, width. The diagram indicates not only general parameters, but also data on all elements, the number of blocks for books.
The depth of the shelf for standard publications should be at least 20 cm; for large volumes, at least 30 cm will be required. The recommended thickness of the shelves is at least 2 cm. The indentation for the plinth, which will take from 3 cm, is taken into account.
When drawing a bookcase drawing using a building level, you need to check how level the floor is. If there is a slope, you will need to level the surface or hide imperfections by reducing the height of the legs. The diagrams must reflect the functional details of the cabinet - the location of the lighting, corner shelving, sockets if necessary, etc.
Bookcases are usually installed in the living room, but if there is space, they can be located in the bedroom or hallway. This piece of furniture may have different sizes and characteristics, and also has different capacities. Many people like to read books, so for optimal storage their library requires a cabinet with the required dimensions and other properties. If you can’t find the optimal model, then you have the opportunity to make a bookcase yourself from different materials.
Before direct work related to the formation of a bookcase for books with your own hands, you need to determine which model will be created. The design should be well suited to the style of the room, it color scheme and other room parameters.
Bookcase models can be:
- open - they consist of open shelves, so there are no doors. Creating such a cabinet is simple work, for which you do not need to buy a lot of expensive materials. The disadvantages include not being very presentable appearance;
- closed - such models are considered the most optimal for structures intended for storing books. This is due to the fact that they are equipped with doors, so the books are reliably protected from direct sunlight, dust or possible moisture. For a more attractive appearance of such a cabinet, glass doors are used, but for this purpose glass with high strength is used.
By design, do-it-yourself bookcases can be:
- vertical;
- horizontal.
To select the optimal design, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the room itself in which it is planned to install the piece of furniture. Additionally, you need to remember about the interior style and availability free space in the room, since a too bulky design in a small living room will visually reduce its size and negatively affect its attractiveness.
Additionally, there are different types of cabinets:
- cabinet - most often chosen by many people for the convenient arrangement of a large number of books, newspapers or magazines, and it is also possible to store many other small items. The contents of such a cabinet are chosen by the direct users, so it can be equipped with hinged or sliding doors, and it can also be made without facades;
- modular - consists of a large number of different modules, and they can be combined and rearranged, which allows you to always effectively change the appearance of the cabinet. Due to this unusual option, you can embody original design ideas for every room and style. If the room where you plan to install the cabinet has small in size, then several modules are removed to save space;
- built-in - usually this design is formed by connecting different numbers of sliding doors. The peculiarity of this option is that all walls are fixed directly to the walls of the room, as well as to the ceiling and floor;
- corner - chosen for small rooms. Occupies a certain corner of the room, so significant space is saved. It is good for different interiors, is compact in size, has excellent capacity and creates easy access to books.
If you choose a built-in version of a bookcase, then it is advisable to form it in a certain niche of a particular room.
Built-in
L-shaped
Classical
Tools and materials
Before directly creating the structure, you should decide what materials will be used for this. Allowed to use different materials, but most suitable for different rooms cabinets are considered to be made of wood. For this purpose they can be used different breeds wood, such as cherry or oak, birch or walnut.
You can buy solid wood or veneer, any option has high quality and beautiful appearance.
If it is not possible to spend a lot of money on the purchase of such an expensive material, then choose MDF or chipboard, as well as other lumber, on top of which there is a high-quality polymer coating. MDF is considered the ideal choice for obtaining an inexpensive and acceptable quality cabinet. It is produced by dry crimping and is characterized by high strength and environmental friendliness.
Additionally, you need to decide what the doors will be made of. They can also be made from wood, but plastic or glass can be used for this. Glass doors are considered the most interesting and unusual, so they are chosen quite often, but you need to make sure that they are used tempered glass high strength.
Tools you will need:
- screwdriver;
- grinding machine;
- sandpaper;
- a machine designed for high-quality milling;
- drill and hacksaw;
- tape measure with pencil;
- wood glue and varnish;
- fasteners;
- blanks intended for forming shelves and made from high-quality furniture panels;
- plywood used for the back wall and lid;
- material for the legs, with small ones considered optimal wooden elements made of oak.
The structure, made of high-quality wood, will last for many years and will always delight you with its unusual appearance, and such models are suitable for any interior.
MDF boards are ideal for a bookcase
Before the actual process of creating a structure, the following preparatory steps are performed:
- a specific model is selected that will be created with your own hands;
- the entire cabinet is visually divided into individual component elements, after which a drawing is generated for each part;
- to simplify the process of creating a drawing and diagram, you can use modern and easy-to-use computer programs;
- it is decided what dimensions the cabinet will have, the main parameters being: width, height and distance between the shelves;
- according to the drawings, parts are cut, which are the main elements to obtain a complete and high-quality cabinet;
- if chipboards are used, then it is advisable to order cutting from specialists, since if you do not use specialized equipment, you will end up with uneven cuts, chips and other defects;
- If you need to make rectangular ends of the panels, then they can be easily and quickly covered with veneer.
When preparing parts, you must constantly check the existing drawings and diagrams, since there is a high probability of creating low-quality elements that cannot be used in the future.
Cutting out curly parts
All parts need to be sanded
Bookcase parts
End milling
This procedure is not particularly long or complicated, but it will have to be given a lot of attention, since without this process the result may not be very attractive. For ideal operation, the following rules are taken into account:
- cutters designed to form a beautiful and optimal relief are selected correctly;
- the overhang is clearly and correctly set, having the necessary parameters;
- High-quality and modern milling equipment is used.
The main features of milling include:
- the router is securely fastened and prepared;
- when feeding a workpiece onto it, it is not allowed for it to deviate or move to the sides, as this guarantees a poor work result;
- when performing the process, you must ensure that all movements are smooth and careful;
- Before work, it is recommended to make sure that the equipment is working properly, for which milling is performed on a small unnecessary element;
- processing of slats should be carried out only after setting the optimal size;
- after work, the place where the workpiece touched the working part of the tool is checked;
- if there are small irregularities, they are carefully smoothed out with sandpaper, since if this process is not completed, then after covering the elements with varnish, the irregularities will be clearly visible.
Thus, milling is easy to do if you follow the basic steps and rules, and also use high-quality and modern equipment.
End milling
Milling grooves
Rear wall
It is almost impossible to see different bookcases in the photo back wall, so it is usually well hidden. This allows you to use inexpensive and easy-to-process materials to create it. Typically used for this standard sheet Chipboard.
Although the back wall cannot spoil the appearance of the cabinet, the reliability of the entire piece of furniture depends on its correct fixation, since it acts as a connecting element.
To form the back wall, a sheet of chipboard or plywood is most often used. These materials are considered easy to process, so cutting out parts of the required size from them will not be difficult. Cutting can be done electrically or with a hand jigsaw, and also a special one is often used sawing machine. Before cutting, you need to apply markings to the sheet so that you get a perfectly smooth back wall with required sizes. The chamfer is removed using sandpaper.
If you want to get a fairly reliable back wall, it is recommended to use chipboard instead of plywood. This material has more weight, and it is also quite easy to attach. It can withstand a variety of loads, so it is considered an ideal choice for a cabinet on which many heavy books will be placed.
Chipboard is most often used for the back wall of a bookcase.
Cabinet assembly
How to make a bookcase with your own hands? After completing numerous preliminary work The immediate assembly of this structure begins. This process is divided into successive stages:
- Initially, the place where the work will be performed is selected, and it must be represented by a flat surface, since if there are distortions, various irregularities may appear in the final structure;
- the side walls are attached to the upper part, and a corner is used to check the evenness of the elements, and only after measurement is fixation performed, and this approach will prevent unevenness at the joints;
- holes are drilled for fasteners, for which a drill is used, and its diameter should be slightly smaller than the selected fastener;
- the parts are securely and firmly tightened together with fasteners, and optimal choice for this process, a confirmat twisting with a hexagon is considered;
- after fixing the upper structural element, fixation of the lower part begins, and before this you also need to pay a lot of attention to quality measurements using a corner;
- then the back wall is attached, for which a pre-cut sheet of plywood or chipboard is used, and for this you can use nails or even a construction stapler;
- the shelves begin to be attached, and they will be subject to a really significant load due to the use of a large number of books, so it is not advisable to make them removable;
- It is advisable to fix the shelves with a confirmation that ensures the reliability and durability of the elements;
- doors are installed using hinges if the structure being created is formed with facades.
Thus, the bookcase can be made by hand. In this case, the ideas of future users are embodied, and a truly interesting design is achieved. The optimal materials for this are wood or MDF. During the process, a lot of attention is paid to creating a drawing, choosing quality material, correct measurements and reliable fixation.
A bookcase is furniture you can’t do without. Books create coziness in a special way and give a home a warm atmosphere. Most people e-books prefer paper analogues, and rightly so. It’s always nice to take a volume of poems by your favorite poet from the shelf, and feel its weight in your hands, listen to the rustle of the pages. Therefore, it is very important to keep books in order. The bookcase will become reliable assistant in this matter.
Advantages of making a cabinet with your own hands
Nowadays, there is no piece of furniture that cannot be bought, however, when it comes to buying, it turns out that something is wrong: the dimensions of the furniture are not suitable, the model does not fit into the interior, or simply you don’t like any of the cabinets so much so that you want to buy it right away. In this case, you can make a bookcase yourself, saving a considerable amount. In addition, there are a number of advantages to a handmade product:
- you will make the design strictly according to the dimensions that you need;
- the product will fit perfectly into the interior;
- your creation will be unique because it will be made by hand and taking into account all the nuances regarding the design of your home;
- furniture self made lasts longer than the factory one, because the owner does not skimp on the quality of material and fittings.
IMPORTANT! First of all, you need to think about what kind of bookcase model you want, think about its location and size, and only after that start working.
There are 2 types of this furniture: open and closed. The closed bookcase has doors that protect books from dust and sun. IN open model There are no such doors.
Types of bookcases
To make a cabinet that is most suitable in size and style, you need to understand the types of such furniture. It is divided by type of assembly and method of use.
Table: types of bookcases
| Assembly type | Use Cases |
| Corpus | The design can be with or without doors, contain a different number of shelves, the doors can be hinged, sliding, or accordion-style. Suitable for storing any printed materials. |
| Modular | Convenient in that it is easy to assemble and disassemble and can be equipped with additional shelves, change shape and height. |
| Built-in | The design can be anything. In such cabinets it is better to install sliding doors, the parts of which are attached to the sides and top. |
| Angular | A win-win option for small rooms. |
Drawing for making a cabinet
If you decide to make a bookcase yourself, you need to prepare a drawing. First, decide what shape the model will have, where it will be located, and what material it will be made of. Remember that it is best to place a bookcase in a study, living room, or other spacious room.
IMPORTANT! When drawing up a drawing, you need to take into account not only the height and width of the product, but also the number of book blocks. All this should be reflected in the drawing.
Before drawing, check how horizontal the floor is. This is easy to do using a level. If we omit this moment, finished product may be performed with errors, and the shelves will become at an angle to the surface. If you still see that the floor is slightly sloped, decide what is easier to do: level the surface, or design the cabinet in such a way that it will subsequently stand firmly on the floor. All these nuances should be reflected in the drawing.
In order to get the maximum correct drawing, you need to take into account the depth of the bookshelf. A standard book is 20 cm wide, larger volumes are 30 cm, this must be shown in the drawing. The thickness of the bookshelf should be at least 2 cm. If the apartment has skirting boards, then the distance from it should be slightly more than 3 cm. It is also worth indicating the presence of sockets and the possibility of lighting the cabinet.
Cabinet making process
A drawing or diagram is an integral part of the manufacturing process. Therefore, drawing up a drawing must be approached with all responsibility. Next, you need to select the material and check the availability of all the tools.
When making a cabinet, you will need to mill the ends. This process is not labor-intensive, but it is worth devoting time to:
- You need to choose the right milling cutters that will help you create the perfect relief.
- The departure is set as clearly as possible.
- Milling equipment must be modern and of high quality.
There are milling features that must be taken into account:
- The router must be securely fastened.
- The workpiece should not deviate to the sides during milling.
- You should not rush during the process, as the result may be bad.
- The slats are processed after the optimal size is set.
- After all work, the parts should be treated with sandpaper to smooth out all irregularities.
For the back wall of the cabinet, you can use a sheet of chipboard; as a rule, this part of the furniture is not visible, and a simpler material is used for its manufacture.
IMPORTANT! The back wall must be fixed very firmly and evenly, this determines how reliable the structure will be.
If the cabinet is designed for large number books, good material laminated chipboard will serve as the back wall. It is easy to attach and can withstand a lot of weight.
Required tools and materials
The materials for making a bookcase are selected in accordance with the chosen project and the interior of the entire home. If you want the product to last for many years, use an array natural wood: alder, cherry, oak, maple. The tree is non-toxic, so it costs a lot of money. More budget option There may be furniture made of chipboard and MDF. In this case, the texture and color scheme are quite varied.
The following materials may be needed for work:
- slats;
- curbs;
- metal inserts;
- glass with or without coating.
Wood blocks can be used as legs.
Tools should also be at hand, they need to be collected even before you get ready to make the cabinet. You will need:
- electric drill with various attachments;
- screwdriver;
- milling machine;
- grinding machine.
In progress finishing works It's worth stocking up on this set:
- ruler and pencil;
- tape measure and level;
- knives and jigsaw;
- screws, washers, nails and hammer;
- brushes and paints and varnishes.
This list may vary slightly, depending on the selected model.
Preparatory work
All of the above points can be attributed to preparatory work. If you do not have a machine for cutting chipboard, then it is better to order cutting from a specialist, since this is a rather complex process that requires a lot of attention and experience. When making a standard rectangular product, the ends are covered with veneer, or oak slats are prepared in advance and glued to the cabinet panels.
It is better to use MDF for shelves and sides; prepare the material in advance. Also available should be an MDF edge 2 cm wide, 8 mm thick, do not forget about the slats.
When everything preparatory work finished, you can start assembling the product.
Cabinet assembly
The structure must be assembled on a flat surface to avoid possible distortions. The whole process is divided into several stages:
Finally, the back wall should be installed and secured to the overall frame.
IMPORTANT! Experts do not recommend using removable shelves for a bookcase.
You can use a wide variety of fastening elements: nails, self-tapping screws, construction stapler. It all depends on the materials and configuration of the product.
Once you look at the outside of this cabinet and start studying its design, you will be surprised at how easy it is to make. Side walls made of plywood with glued wooden parts look like traditional paneled frames, but you don't have to make complicated joints. The doors use simple half-timber joints that are easy to make on a saw.
The slats glued to the glass imitate slabs, and there is no need to deal with connections and adjustment of profile parts, as in real classic bindings.
First make the sides
1. Cut out the side panels A according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials”. Unravel the thickness of the workpiece measuring 51×711 mm and sharpen it to form two workpieces 6 mm thick. Then saw off the lining from these blanks IN specified length (Fig. 1).
Quick tip! To avoid staining the front sides of the panels, use a saw to make shallow catch cuts on the back of the trims to catch excess glue.
Glue the trim to the panels flush with the top and bottom edges.
2. For front and rear pillars C, D choose straight-layer boards 38 mm thick or glue blanks from several layers. From this material, cut two blanks measuring 32x70x775 mm. Position the longitudinal (parallel) fence of the saw machine at a distance of 12 mm from the blade, raise the blade to a height of 12 mm and make a cut on one face of each workpiece and trim at least 19 mm thick. Move the rip fence slightly away from the blade and make another pass to widen the cut on the trim. Check how the plywood from which the back panels will be made is inserted into it N. If necessary, readjust the rip fence and make another cut to achieve a tight fit. Then widen the tongues on both pieces.
3. Having installed the router in the table, attach a shaped cutter for roundings with a radius of 25 mm into the collet and, gradually increasing its reach, in several passes, mill out a rounding on each workpiece on the edge opposite to the cut (Fig. 1a). Then install a 6mm diameter straight slot cutter and attach a scrap stopper to the rip fence at a distance of 45mm from the cutter (photo A). Move the rip fence 12 mm from the cutter and rout a partial tongue in one of the blanks from which the left front and rear pillars will be made C, D.
Attach the scrap stopper to the longitudinal stop milling table on the left at a distance of 45 mm from the cutter. With these settings, make a partial tongue in only one piece.
Reposition the stopper and lower the second workpiece onto the rotating cutter. After taking out an incomplete tongue, this workpiece will be a mirror copy of the first one.
Pressure bars cut from scraps will help to press the front C pillars with clamps. Internal sides pillars C, D and panels A must be aligned in the same plane.
4. To make the same partial tongue on the workpiece for the front and rear posts of the right wall, place the stopper on the opposite side of the cutter (photo B). Pressing the second piece firmly against the rip fence and stopper, lower it onto the rotating cutter and slide it along the stop to remove the incomplete tongue. Using a chisel, carefully trim the corners at the end of the tongue in both pieces.
5. Saw both pieces lengthwise to create two front WITH and two rear D pillars 32 mm wide. Mill 2mm fillets on the outer edges of the posts (Fig. 1b). Sand the parts with 220-grit sandpaper and glue the posts to the side panels A (photo C).
Assemble the body
1.
Cut out the front crossbar according to the dimensions indicated. E, rear crossbars F and mullion G. Temporarily set the front crossbar aside. Using the same method as in the front and rear racks, cut out tongues for inserting plywood panels in the center of the inner edges of the rear crossbars and on both edges of the centerpiece H (Fig. 3a).
2. Install a 14 mm thick mortise disc into the saw machine and secure it to the longitudinal stop wooden overlay. Turn on the machine and lift the disc so that it protrudes 12mm wide from the cover plate. At both ends of the front crossbar E, rear crossbars F and middle G cut out tenons that fit tightly into the tongues of adjacent parts (Fig. 2a, photoD).
Note. Check the connections carefully. The front rail may require thicker tenons than the rear rails and mullion.
Set the front crossbar aside again.
Make one pass on each side to form a tenon in the center. To check the settings, first make a tenon on a test piece of the same thickness.
Align the center G with the center of the rear crossbars F. Using a square and sharp knife, mark the position of the tongue on both beams.
3. Remove the wooden cover from the longitudinal stop and install it at a distance of 27 mm from the groove disk. Cut along the center of one face of the mullion G tongue for inserting partition I. Align the centerpiece with the center of the rear crossbars F and mark the position of the tongue on them (photo E). Extend the lines by transferring the markings to the edges of the crossbars and cut a groove between the lines (Fig. 3).
Cut spacers from the scraps and insert them between the ends of the rear crossbars F so that they do not bend under the pressure of the clamps.
4. Dry (without glue) connect the rear crossbars F and mullion G. Cut out the back panels N and check how they fit into the tongues of this assembly. Sand those crossbars, mullion, and panels with 220-grit sandpaper, then glue them together (photoF).
5. Check how the sides fit together A/B/C/D, front crossbar E and back wall F/G/H. Measure the distance from the bottom of the tongue in the center G to the front crossbar. Cut out the partition I this width. Then measure the distance from the bottom edge of the front crossbar to the bottom of the A-pillars WITH. Saw out the three front trims J same length (Fig. 2) and set two of them aside. Glue one overlay to the front edge of the partition, aligning with the bottom corner. Once the glue is dry, sand the trim flush with the sides of the partition.
6. Drill holes for the shelf supports using a drill jig. Please note that the holes in the partition I positioned differently than in the side panels A (Fig. 1b And 2).
Temporarily installed mounting brackets at the top and bottom of each side frame hold the body parts at right angles while the glue dries.
7. Saw out the top gussets TO, giving them contours according to the template, then begin assembling the body (photoG).
Quick tip! Mounting squares will replace an assistant when assembling the housing. Make enlarged copies of the top gussets to temporarily hold the parts in place so that the assembly is rectangular. Make a chamfer on inner corner each square so that it does not stick to the parts.
Glue one of the sides A/B/C/D to the back wall F/G/H, then add a partition I/J. Glue the front crossbar in place E and the second side. Make sure the baffle is at right angles to the body and glue the top gussets in place (Fig. 2), fixing them with clamps. Then glue the front trims J to both front pillars WITH.
Make the top and bottom panels
1. Cut out the top and bottom panels from 18mm plywood L.
Attach two overlays M, N to the top panel L with clamps and mark their final length. Level the surfaces of the parts when gluing.
2. Cut out blanks for the front and side edge trims M, N with a 25mm allowance along the length and make a 45° bevel at one end of each. Clamp the front and side trim to panel E and mark the final length of the side trim. (photo N). Also place a mark on the inside edge of the front trim to mark the second bevel. File both parts to the final length, glue them to the panel and secure with clamps. Then try on the remaining side piece, mark its length, file and glue in place. Glue the overlays to the other panel in the same way.
3. Using a compass, mark the radii on the front corners of the panels L/M/N (Fig. 2b), cut with a jigsaw, leaving a slight allowance, then sand to a line using a sanding block.
4. Mill a decorative molding profile on the upper edges of the bottom panel L/M/N and on the lower ribs of the upper (Fig. 2c). Then, replacing the cutter, make fillets with a radius of 3 mm on the opposite side of both panels. Lightly sand the transition line between the two profiles to make it invisible. Finish sand both panels.
Make a base
1. Process the material for the front and side base boards to the specified thickness and width. O, R. Saw off the front board to the specified length, and leave an allowance of about 25 mm on the side boards.
2. Insert a rounding cutter with a radius of 25 mm into the collet of the router fixed in the table, make roundings on both ends of the front board O and one end of each of the side boards R. Then mark and file the bevels on all three pieces. (photo I).
Mill the roundings at the ends of the base boards O, P, then mark and make bevels. The side boards will be sawn to final length later.
Place the front base board O on the bottom panel at a distance of 16 mm from the edge, aligned to the center, and glue, securing with clamps.
3. Mark on the front board ABOUT according to template cutout (Fig. 2) and cut out, leaving a small allowance. Sand the edges smooth and make 3mm fillets on the bottom edges of the legs and the bottom edges of the side boards P. Finish the base parts with 220 sandpaper.
4. Put down the bottom panel L/M/N onto the stands with the top side down (photoJ). Glue the front base board ABOUT to the bottom of the panel (Fig. 2c).
5. When the glue is dry, stick to the front board ABOUT side base boards R and place marks on them flush with the ends of the side pads N. Saw the side boards to the final length, glue them in place and secure with clamps.
6. Cut out the back gussets Q and front bosses R specified sizes and shapes. Make 10mm chamfers on the front bosses for installation of clamps. When the glued base is dry, glue the gussets and bosses into place, securing them with clamps (Fig. 2).
Attaching panels to the body
To align the top panel with the rear D-pillars, place the chassis on stands. A temporary spacer keeps partition I from warping.
1. Place the case on a workbench with stands under the rear stands D. Apply glue to the top edges of the side panels A, front and rear crossbars E, F and partitions I. Install the top panel L/M/N so that the molded profile on its edges is a mirror image of the profile on the bottom panel. Secure the top panel with clamps flush with the rear edges of the rear pillars (photo K). Glue the bottom panel and base into place L-R in the same way.
2. Cut out the shelves S and edge trims T specified sizes. Glue the trim to the front edges of the shelves flush with the top side (Fig. 2). Allow the glue to dry, then finally sand the shelves and trims with 220-grit sandpaper.
Doors are easy to make
1. Plane the workpiece for crossbars and posts to the specified thickness and width. U, V. Check the length of these parts by measuring the width and height of the body openings. Cut the crossbars and posts 3mm shorter than these dimensions.
2. Install a 19mm thick mortise disc into the saw and make a test half-wood joint using scraps (read “Tip of the Craftsman” below). Once you have achieved the correct setting, fix the height of the disc.
To make the half-tree connections neat. To make half-wood joints, it is necessary to adjust the projection of the groove disk above the saw table. Take two scraps of the same thickness as the blanks for your parts. Raise the disc to a height slightly less than half the thickness of the trim. Using a miter gauge to guide the trim, cut a fold at one end of each trim. Place both test cuts on a flat surface and check how the folds fit into each other. Adjust the overhang of the disc so that the seam surfaces meet without forming gaps.
Partially covering the groove disk with the longitudinal stop plate, leave it open to a width of 10 mm. Saw rebates along the inside edges of all U rails and V posts.
3. Saw along the edges of all crossbars and posts U, V 10mm rebate (photoL).
4. Using the crossbar U Using a template, adjust the position of the longitudinal (parallel) stop (read the “Tip of the Master” at the top). With the pieces facing up, cut half-timber joints at both ends of the U rails. Again, use the rail as a template to reposition the rip fence. Saw half-timber joints at the ends of the V posts, placing them with the fold facing down.
5. Glue the frames from the posts and crossbars U, V, fixing everything with clamps corner connections half a tree. Make sure each frame is square before the glue sets.
Place the door on the bottom panel, placing a coin under it. Using a centering drill, make pilot holes for the screws.
6. After thorough drying, install hinges on the doors (Fig. 4), then attach the doors to the body (photo M).
7. Check the fit of each door to the frame opening. If necessary, sharpen the edges with a plane so that the gaps are the same throughout the entire perimeter. Install latches and knobs in the indicated places (Fig. 2 And 4).
8. Plane the material for making glazing beads to a thickness of 6 mm W, X and planks Y, Z, imitating binding croakers. Saw off the vertical beads W and adjust their length to the rebates of the door posts V. Then mark the final length of the horizontal beads in place. X, installed in the folds of the crossbars U between vertical beads. Mark the length of the vertical and horizontal strips in accordance with the distances between the crossbars and posts. Make test half-timber joints using 6mm scraps, then cut grooves down the middle of each plank and make glue-trap cuts near the edges. Remove all hardware and give doors, glazing beads and trims a final sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Carefully remove sanding dust and apply a finishing coat.
Place the door on soft cloth and cover the glass with a piece of cardboard before driving the dowel nails into the bead.
9. When the coating is dry, insert glass into the rebate of each door. Drill holes in the beads W, X and secure them with thin hairpin nails (photoN). Do not use glue so that the beads can be removed if the glass breaks. Apply thin beads of silicone adhesive sealant to the backs of the planks. Y, Z and glue it to the glass, securing it with masking tape. Reinstall the hardware and attach the doors to the frame. Now arrange your favorite books on the shelves for which you made this magnificent bookcase.
Surely, every book lover sooner or later faces the problem of storing his home library. Of course, the easiest way out is to buy a ready-made cabinet, fortunately today in furniture stores There is a wide range of book shelving models available. You can also contact companies that manufacture custom bookcases. However, we offer you not only to save a decent amount of money, but also to participate in a very exciting process- especially since this piece of furniture will be created by your own hands.
Below will be stated detailed instructions on assembling a book rack like this, thanks to which you can easily and quickly assemble a “home” for your book collection.
Of course there are more complex designs bookcases, for example with doors and drawers. Today we’ll talk about the classic version of a home library with open shelves, which can be placed in any room.
The optimal depth for a home library is 400 mm. Bookcase dimensions: 2000*800*400 mm (height*width*depth). Many books or magazines will easily fit at this depth, so you don’t have to worry about its capacity.
Material:
in this article we will look at assembling a cabinet from chipboard material. The back wall will be made of fiberboard. This is very available materials Moreover, there is a wide range of colors on the market: from wood to bright monochromatic decors.
What tools will be needed during the assembly process?
For self-assembly we need the following tool:
- screwdriver with a bit for confirmation;
- confirmation drill;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- bit for screws.
We also need fasteners:
- confirmations
- self-tapping screws
- furniture corners
- thrust bearings
The bookcase, the assembly of which is described in this article, turned out to be quite spacious thanks to a well-thought-out design.
All the necessary details can be made based on the drawings that will be attached at the end of this instruction.
It is better to entrust cutting and edging the ends of parts to professionals and order it all at once from a furniture shop. After all, doing this at home is quite difficult. In principle, there is nothing complicated, but this only applies to paper melamine edges. You can also glue it at home. But we would still recommend you pasting plastic edge done on a professional machine.
The same goes for chipboard. It can, of course, be cut with a jigsaw. But be prepared for the fact that a large number of chips will appear on the parts, which will greatly spoil the appearance of the cabinet.
This bookcase project uses 3mm white fiberboard as the back wall.
Unfortunately, it was not possible to save a photo of the finished assembled cabinet, but we will provide you with drawings according to which you can make a bookcase with your own hands.
List of required parts
In order to make a bookcase, we will need:
- Side stands 400*2000, chipboard 16 mm – 2 pcs.
- Shelves 400*768, chipboard 16 mm – 5 pcs.
- Top 400*800, chipboard 16 mm – 1 pc.
- Front vertical overlays 50*2000 chipboard 16 mm – 2 pcs.
- Front horizontal trim (top) 100*700 chipboard 16 mm – 1 pc.
- Front horizontal trim (bottom) 100*700 chipboard 16 mm – 1 pc.
- Drawer between shelves (for rigidity) 400*380 chipboard 16 mm – 1 pc.
- Rear wall 800*2000 fiberboard 3 mm – 1 pc.
Build process
At the very beginning, we fasten the prepared side stands together. To do this, you first need to drill holes for confirmations in the side parts.
Initially, we need to assemble the main frame of the bookcase, i.e. connect the main parts together. This is done with the help of confirmations. The process of drilling holes for confirmations is described in more detail.
- Insert the confirmat into the resulting hole and use a screwdriver with a confirmat bit to tighten the hardware. Repeat this procedure with the second side panel, and do the same with the bottom shelf. That is, you need to assemble the bookcase into a single whole. As a result, you should have the main frame of the future cabinet. When assembling, it is very important to initially maintain all dimensions and joints so that all ends are connected flush.
- After our frame is assembled, it needs to be aligned diagonally. It is important that we have an even rectangle with equal diagonals.
- Now you can attach the back wall. Take a few self-tapping screws, a screwdriver with a suitable bit, and fasten the back wall to the ends of the sides, top and bottom shelf. Fasten the screws in 10 cm increments.
- Next, you can begin attaching the shelves. In order to create additional structural rigidity, we recommend attaching the shelves to the side parts using confirmatories.
- Of course, the side of the cabinet will suffer from this, but the caps of the hardware can be closed with special plugs in the color of the chipboard. Starting from the top, mark 380 mm from the top of the side part and make two parallel marks with a pencil.
- At the same time, step back from the edge by 2 cm. Drill through holes using a drill, insert the confirmations into them and tighten them with a screwdriver. Repeat this procedure with all interior shelves.
- A bookcase, the design of which assumes the presence of a drawer between the second and third shelves, will have a little more rigidity than if these shelves were without it. Insert it between these shelves and attach it with self-tapping screws.
- Assembly of the bookcase continues. Now we will attach decorative trims to the front of the cabinet. Let's start with the vertical ones. It is best to do this using furniture corners; fasten them with self-tapping screws to each shelf and top part from the inside.
- The design of the bookcase also assumes the presence of horizontal top and bottom decorative overlays. Attach them in the same way as vertical ones.
Attaching the bottom pad
That's it!
In fact, this is a very exciting and interesting process. Over time, you will be able to make other pieces of furniture for your interior. For example, make a large rack for books or tools. The main thing is that you save almost 100% of the cost of materials.
Bookcase drawing
