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Hanging chair– comfortable and unusual garden furniture designed for relaxing time on fresh air. This device appeared in the 50s of the last century and in a short period of time became an integral part of the house, claiming to be a truly cozy home.

A beautiful “cocoon” can be used as a swing, a place to sleep or meditate. It is noteworthy that it is easy to make a hanging chair for your home or garden yourself from available materials.

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Types of hanging chairs

Currently, there are several types of products:

  1. With a rigid frame made of rattan and plastic. The structure is covered with strong fabric. Also, vine is used as a base.
  2. With a soft frame (reminiscent of a hammock). The main difference is the size: the chair is smaller than a hammock and therefore takes up little space. This product adapts to the human body, which means it is comfortable to sit and lie in.
  3. Cocoon chair. Distinctive feature This modification is 75% hidden internal space. This effect is achieved thanks to wicker walls - macrame. “Cocoon” will appeal to those who love a secluded holiday, hidden from prying eyes.
  4. “Drop” – as a rule, used in a children’s room. The chair looks like little house, sometimes equipped with doors. An excellent rocking chair for a child.

Making your own hanging chair

Making a comfortable hammock for a comfortable time is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. First you need to prepare the necessary parts:

  • Metal hoop with a diameter of 90 cm.
  • A piece of strong fabric 3 m long, 1.5 m wide.
  • Braid, non-woven fabric or dublerin.
  • Eight meter sling.
  • Steel ring for mounting the structure to the ceiling.
  • 4 iron buckles.
  • Sewing supplies, measuring tape and scissors.

Let's take a closer look at choosing a hoop. As load-bearing structure You can use the following materials:

  1. Gymnastics hoops. Aluminum and plastic are not suitable for this purpose, as they will not withstand the load of an adult’s body. Only steel models can be considered. The maximum cross-section of such a hoop is 16 mm, while to make a durable product you need 32 mm, which is twice as much (for a wicker chair this figure should be 40 mm). However, the gymnastic ring is perfect for children's version. The small cross-section is compensated for by multilayer filler.
  2. Softwood. Such hoops are lightweight, but require careful processing, since moisture and heat contribute to the destruction of the wood.
  3. Metal-plastic water pipe. Perhaps, the best option to implement the idea. PVC is cheap and durable material. The hoop is made by rolling a cut piece of pipe into a ring. For fastening, parts made of wood or plastic are used.

The list of materials suitable for creating a hoop is not limited to the options listed. Everyone chooses the basis for the frame themselves - it all depends on their imagination.

Preparing the cover

Cutting the material for a hammock chair requires care and attention. When in doubt, it is better to leave a small supply of fabric; later it can be removed without any problems.

The principle is: measure seven times, cut once.

  1. To begin, let's take a 3-meter piece of fabric and cut out 2 squares from it - each 1.5 meters long and wide. We fold both 4 times. In the corner in the center we mark a circle with a diameter of 65 centimeters. Draw a line along the marked points. Cut out identical circles from each square. We move 4 centimeters away from the edge of the circle and draw a dashed line segment.

    Cutting out squares

  2. We put two holes on the first circle. They are designed for slings. Next, fold the fabric 4 times and iron it. We take the folds as guidelines. Two slings should have a slope of 45 degrees, the others - 30 degrees each. Having highlighted the corners, open the circle and iron it again. The result is axes indicating the slot points for the sling.
  3. We select the necessary holes on all axes - rectangular figures 10 cm wide and 15 cm high. Y is marked in the inner part. The cut will take place along its contour. We fold the circles together, but in such a way that the threads do not overlap each other. Because of this, the case will be able to better withstand the load. Place the circle on top. Cut the marks on two circles at once.
  4. We bend the ends of the cut holes to the reverse side. We attach braid around the perimeter of the figure or treat it with doublerin so that the material does not fall off. Next, we cut completely and sew along the edge, leaving 3 mm.

    Bend and stitch the edges

  5. Leaving the marked 4 centimeters at the edges, we connect the circles to each other, marking a slot for inserting the hoop. We cut the gap left so that we get teeth along the entire edge. Turn the cover right side out and iron it.
  6. We cut out the filler into strips, then we cover the hoop (preferably in 2 layers). We insert the processed structure into the case. Moving the ring towards the edge, we sew all the circular parts at a distance of approximately 7 cm from the end.

    Insert and sew up the hoop

  7. Turn the edges of the unstitched cut intended for inserting the hoop inside out. We carefully cut off the allowances on the front side so as not to damage the correctness of the circle. We connect the edges and sew on a machine, leaving a few millimeters. We move the frame to the stitched end, baste the fabric by 7 cm.

    Sewing the edges

  8. Synthetic padding mode through the slots and move it inside the material, securing it with threads. We close the side holes with a hidden seam. Then we fix the cover on the hoop, sewing it along the verified 7-centimeter basting. After every 4 stitches we wrap a knot. Further rows are made at a distance of 7 cm from the previous one, so that the thick fabric can gather into soft folds.
  9. Sling mode for four 2-meter segments. It is better to burn the edges over a flame. We insert the end into the hoop through the prepared slot. It is necessary to fold it so that a loop is formed. Using a needle, we cut and stitch. The algorithm is the same for all slings.

    Attaching the slings to the hoop

  10. We insert the end of each into the buckles, then into the ring and again into the buckle. It is necessary to weave everything well in order to be able to change the height and tilt of the chair. The ring serves to collect the slings.

Pattern example

Hanging chairs are a kind of swing, cozy place for relaxation and privacy.

Making a wicker chair

The macrame technique allows you to create original products yourself.

Photo: egg-shaped wicker hanging chair - a comfortable place for reading books in the fresh air

This unusual structure consists of several circles woven together in macrame. For such an “egg” you will need the following parts:

  • 2 metal-plastic rings with a cross-section of 35 mm. One for the backrest measures 1.1 m, the other for the seat – 70 cm.
  • Polyamide 4 mm thread 900 m long. In the store, ask about the option with a polypropylene base, which guarantees strong knots.
  • Twelve meter slings.
  • 2 thick ropes to connect the hoops.

It is worth mentioning that rings of a smaller diameter are suitable for the product, since the specified characteristics are the maximum for the chair. It is better to buy the thread of the required length immediately to avoid differences in color or quality. After preparing all the parts, you can safely begin work on creating the “egg”.


Any patterns are suitable for weaving the back. The cord is attached to the top. Work is carried out in a downward direction. On the lower hoop, the knots are tightened, and the remaining threads are collected into tassels. The design requires reinforcement with 2 wide cords connecting the seat to the back. Slings are attached to the finished product - and the “egg” hanging chair takes its well-deserved place in the summer cottage.

By making such a device, you will receive cozy corner for a secluded holiday and forget about problems and stress for a long time!

With the arrival of summer, many city residents strive to get out into nature at least for the weekend, and if they have a summer cottage and circumstances permit, then for the whole summer. There is probably no person who would not like to take a nap in the fresh air, listening to the singing of birds, swinging in a hammock or chair. To save on purchasing this simple, but quite expensive furniture element interior design, a hanging chair with your own hands can be made in several ways, which will be discussed further.

For the manufacture of some options, the most simple materials, which may even simply litter the barn. For others, you will have to prepare material in nature or purchase it in a store. Manufacturing may require the “mobilization” of one’s abilities in needlework - weaving or knitting, so that work will be found not only for men, but sometimes even more so for housewives.

Types of hanging chairs

Hanging chairs began to be widely used in the 50s of the last century - then they were at the peak of fashion. Many designs of these distinctive elements of “luxury” have been developed, made from a variety of materials.


  • A chair with a rigid frame made of rattan, wicker, metal, plastic or acrylic. In this case, the base can be covered with durable fabric or braided with wicker, rattan or leather strips.
  • A chair with a soft frame, made on the principle of a hammock. The main difference between these seats is the size and method of hanging. If the hammock is fixed on two supports located at a certain distance from each other, then one is enough for the chair.
Cocoon chair - for those who like to spend time in solitude
  • The cocoon chair is made on a rigid frame and has wicker walls. The difference between this type of product and other types of chairs is that its internal space is half hidden from the outside world. This place is ideal for people who love privacy.

  • The teardrop chair is mainly intended for children's rooms, as it looks more like a hanging little house in which you can hide or even sleep. In addition, there is enough space to take your favorite toys with you.

Making simple hanging chairs

In this section of the article, several options for making hanging chairs will be considered, which should be quite feasible for most skilled owners.

Hanging chairs made of hoop

The easiest way to make a hanging chair at home is from a regular hula hoop, which can be found in almost every home or purchased at a sporting goods store. Moreover, there are two options for making such an item garden furniture. One of them will require one hoop, the other two, slightly different in size. Both options will be shown - you can choose the one that seems easier to manufacture.

Prices for Kvimol hanging chairs

hanging chairs Kvimol

First option
  • To make such a chair you will need the following materials:

- one hoop made of pipe 20÷30 mm in cross-section, with a diameter from 700 to 1100 mm, depending on how large the chair should be;

- two identical pieces of fabric measuring 1200x1200 mm or 1600x1600 mm. A durable fabric is selected; you can take a padding polyester lining material that already has stitching;

- a piece of the same fabric 200 mm wide, 3500÷4000 mm long (can be several pieces);

— colored thick fabric for sewing pillowcases for two ÷ three pillows;

- padding polyester, also 200 mm wide and about 3500÷4000 mm long (can be in several pieces);

— padding polyester for stuffing pillows;

— border for processing cutouts in the case — 800÷1000 mm;

— zipper 700÷1100 mm long;

- durable nylon cord 6÷8 mm thick or linen rope with a diameter of 10÷12 mm, length 10500 mm (10.5 m);

— two powerful metal carabiners and rings for hanging the chair.

  • Tools you need to prepare:

— threads and needles for hand sewing;

- sewing machine;

- scissors;

- marker;

- tape measure or centimeter.

  • The manufacturing process of such a chair is presented step by step in the table:
Illustration
The first step is to spread the fabric on the table, and then place the hoop on it in the center.
Next, using a centimeter, a circle is measured around the hoop and marked with a marker, with a radius 250 mm larger.
A circle is cut out of the fabric along the marked line.
You need to prepare 2 such parts.
The finished elements of the future case should look like this.
The next step is to fold one of the cut out round pieces in half and then cut it.
Next, along the line of the central cut of the circle, a zipper is pinned and then attached.
There is a distance of 250 mm from the edge of the cut, and from this point the lock is secured, that is, it must be clearly along a length equal to the diameter of the hoop.
After the lock is attached, the two halves of the cover are sewn together around the circumference, and then it is turned inside out and laid out on the table.
Next, to make it easier to make markings for the cutouts, the finished cover should be put on the hoop.
The markings shown in the presented drawing are made.
The places where the cuts should be made are marked with a marker.
Using the marks made, four cutouts are made through which cords or ropes will be attached to the hoop.
To make the cut holes look neat, they need to be covered with braid.
Having finished working on the case, you can move on to preparing the hoop.
The hoop is wrapped with padding polyester.
In several places, the metal can be slightly lubricated with polymer glue so that the wrapped material does not slip during stitching.
Next comes the sheathing process itself.
It is done manually, with stitches over the edge.
The next step is to cover the hoop wrapped in padding polyester with fabric.
Well, in order to prevent it from slipping, first its edges are folded inward and pinned together.
The fabric is also stitched manually, over the edge.
As the stitching progresses, the fixing pins are pulled out.
The sheathed hoop is inserted into the case through a hole into which a zipper is sewn, which is then fastened.
Next, two pieces of 2200 mm and two pieces of 2800 mm are cut from the cord.
Then, the cords are folded in half and their ends are tied together.
After that, they are threaded through the cut holes, under the hoop.
The cords are secured to the hoop by threading the knotted ends into the loop formed on the other side.
Lastly, pillows of suitable size are cut and sewn, and the chair is hung in the place chosen for it.
How to carry out the process of securing the chair to the ceiling or in the yard will be discussed below.
Second option
The second option is two hoops in openwork weave

In the second option, slightly different materials are used in the manufacture of the hanging chair, in contrast to the first model. Such chairs are made in the same way as hammocks using the macrame technique, but they can be made in another way, accessible to everyone, since not everyone knows the art of weaving.

  • So, to make this chair you need to prepare:

- two metal hoops (ready-made or made independently, for example, from a metal-plastic pipe) with a cross-section of 30÷35 mm, a diameter of 700 mm for making the seat frame, and 1100 mm for lining the back;

- in this case, a nylon cord is used for weaving, 4 mm thick and it will require 900 m, but instead of it a linen or jute cord with a diameter of 5 ÷ 6 mm or strips of thick leather can be used;

- nylon cord with a cross-section of 6÷7 mm for hanging the chair - 12 m;

— 2 wooden bars with a cross section of 20×35 mm, or 2 metal tubes with a diameter of 20÷25 mm. Instead, you can use two pieces of rope with a cross-section of 10÷12 mm.

The manufacturing process of this version of the chair includes the following operations:

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
The first step is to wrap both hoops with cord. Every 20 turns, tightening is done to prevent the loops from slipping.
Sometimes a small amount of polymer glue is used to secure the rope to the metal, which, of course, should not come out.
The cord must be laid very tightly, otherwise ready product it will look sloppy.
The next step is to braid a hoop that will serve as a seat.
For this, a “checkerboard” pattern consisting of various nodes can be used.
This illustration shows a version of the checkerboard braid, made of flat knots along the diagonal.
This photo shows the same drawing, but in a straight version.
For those home craftswomen who find it difficult to master the art of macrame, or who simply want to do the work of braiding a hoop faster, we can recommend using the technique that is used for weaving rugs. But if, after finishing the rug, it is removed from the hoop, then when making the chair, the resulting weaving remains on the round frame.
To make the weaving strong, you need to choose high-quality cords for the base, which is attached to the hoop.
The next step is to connect the two prepared hoops together using a cord, wrapping it tightly in the front of the future chair.
To stiffen the back, two supports are made from bars, tubes or thick cord, which are tightly braided with a thin cord.
These two jumpers (they are shown in green lines in the illustration above) are secured to the back and seat hoop using weaving.
Next, you need to weave on the back of the chair - in the remaining gap between the two hoops.
Braiding can also be done using the macrame technique, the technique of creating rugs presented above, or the simplest crochet - whichever is more convenient.
It should be noted here that the installation and braiding of the chair back supports can be done both before and after weaving the backrest.
It is better to also braid the slings for hanging the chair with cord - this way they will be much stronger and more reliable.
The slings are attached to the backrest hoop in four places, and their length is adjusted to the right size already when hanging the chair in the chosen place.

It should be clarified that to make chairs, instead of a hula hoop, you can use plastic (polyethylene) pipes for water supply - they are light in weight and have sufficient strength. The advantage of this material is that the braid will look much more advantageous and aesthetically pleasing on a larger diameter pipe. In addition, plastic is warmer and softer than metal. Pipes are sold at construction markets in the form of bays and already have suitable form, so you just need to select the desired diameter of the ring and fasten it correctly.


Suitable for creating frame hoops and pipes. They are somewhat more expensive, but also stronger, since their walls consist of several layers. Metal-plastic pipes, just like plastic ones, can be easily cut with a hacksaw.

The length of the pipe section required for the hoop is determined by the circumference formula:

L = π × D ≈ 3.14 × D

- Where D- this is the required diameter of the hoop,

S– required pipe length.

For example, if you need to make a hoop with a diameter of 1100 mm, then this will require 3.14 × 1100 = 3454 mm, or 3.5 meters of pipe when rounded.

No need to buy hard ones polypropylene pipes, since when bent they can behave completely unexpectedly.


The ends of the pipe are connected to each other using a special insert of a smaller diameter than the pipe, but fitting tightly into it. This insert is usually made of wood or thick plastic. It is inserted into the ends of the pipe, then they are moved tightly and fixed with stainless steel screws 15÷20 mm long, depending on the diameter of the pipe. This circumstance is important to take into account so that the screws do not pass through.

Wicker hanging chair

A task of increased complexity - a wicker chair

The traditional option is hanging wicker chairs, which can be made from specially prepared flexible rods of willow, bird cherry, broom, rattan or bast. IN middle lane In Russia, the easiest way to find broom or willow, which grows densely along river banks.


Weaving material - long and flexible willow rods

In order to make a wicker chair, you need to purchase and prepare the following materials:

  • Long willow rods with a diameter of 10–15 mm – about 400–450 pieces will be required. It is better, of course, to use rattan, especially for those who are trying their hand at the art of wicker weaving for the first time, as it is more flexible and easier to work with.
  • For the front part of the chair, a metal hoop, metal-plastic pipes can be used as a frame, or the base can be created from several vine rods woven with a scythe.
  • Strong twine and glue will be needed to tie the frame.
  • Secateurs, an awl, a knife and a ruler are necessary for measuring the material and cutting it.
  • A cord with a cross-section of 4 mm made of nylon, the color is close to the shade of the rods - it will be needed for weaving the back. If you have skills in weaving, then the back is made of wicker.
  • Cords, chains or ropes for hanging a chair. Their length will depend on the height of the room's ceiling or other suspension point.

The weaving pattern can be different, and its complexity depends on the experience in this art.

The simplest option for making a hanging cocoon chair involves performing the following operations:

  • The chopped vine is steamed and cleared of bark, and then beaten - this is necessary so that it is more pliable in weaving.
  • First, the frame of the chair is formed. If a hoop is used for the front part, and an oval shape in the form of a cocoon is planned, then the hoop will have to be flattened a little. However, it is best to use a metal-plastic pipe for this frame element, which can be easily given the desired shape and its ends connected using an insert.
  • Then, the remaining frame elements are attached to the pipe. The rods must have a cross-sectional thickness of at least 6÷8 mm, and a length greater than the height of the chair by 250÷400 mm if they are fixed vertically. If there are no rods of such length, then the frame can be made of horizontally fixed elements.
  • When mounting the rods vertically, they are fixed on the top of the frame, in its middle, so that they gradually move apart from each other, and in the middle of the back of the chair, the distance between them should be 20÷25 mm.
  • The rods bend to create the shape and depth of the chair, and at the bottom they gather again towards the middle. This creates a kind of basket-frame that will be in a vertical position when finished.
  • There is another way to form the base, when horizontal rods are fixed to the sides of the frame. They are also mounted every 20÷25 mm, and the shape of the future chair is also created from them.
  • The frame vine is secured to the base by bending it through a pipe from the inside of the chair to the outside. Then the bent end is intercepted with the vine with twine.
  • Next, the frame rods are braided transversely with thinner vines, starting from the bottom and gradually rising upward. If the weaving goes along a horizontally arranged frame, then it must start from the middle of the back to the sides. On the pipe, the end of the rod is bent and twisted around the main vine. Each rod is pressed closely to the previous one.

An example of compaction of vine laying when weaving along vertically installed frame elements.
  • The entire basket of the chair is woven in the same manner. The end of the last rod is bent, tucked in and secured in the weave.

Since in such a chair there is no reliable support due to its oval shape, then as it bottom part a foam rubber pillow of sufficient thickness is inserted - this can be tried on locally.

Find out how by studying a master class on making a chair for a veranda or terrace in a special article on our portal.

Wooden hanging chair

Another type of hanging chairs can be made from boards, in several versions. Installation of such a structure is quite simple, even for those owners who do not have carpentry skills. It is enough to be able to carefully handle the surface of the boards and drill even holes in them.

First option

This option is ideal for summer cottage– it’s easy to hang such a chair in the shade of trees, where it will be very pleasant to relax in the fresh air.

  • To make such a design, you must have the following materials on hand:

— Boards, dimensions: length 600÷700 mm, width 120÷150 mm, thickness 10÷15 mm. You will need 16 of these elements. The boards must be well processed, it is advisable to round the edges on them. Some craftsmen use boards from standard Euro pallets.

— Nylon paracord cord – 10 m.

— Varnish on water based for street work.

  • To work you will need the following tools:

- Hacksaw or jigsaw.

— Drill and wood drill bits with diameters of 6, 8 and 10 mm.

- Sandpaper.

Work on the manufacture of such a chair is carried out as follows:

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
If the chair is made from pallet boards, then it will need to be carefully disassembled, without allowing cracks to appear or expand.
Then, also very carefully, the nails are pulled out of the boards.
After this, the edges of the boards with the nail holes are sawed off smoothly.
All surfaces must be carefully processed to perfect smoothness, otherwise you can easily get a splinter, and in the most inconvenient place.
The treated boards are marked, stacked in two or three pieces and drilled into them through holes at a distance of 50 mm from each other.
It should be noted here that holes can be drilled along the edge, with a distance of 15÷20 mm from it, or in the middle of the board in two rows, at a line distance of 30 mm from each other.
Next, the boards are laid side by side, and a cord is inserted into the holes, as shown in the illustration.
The next step is to pull the cord through the holes across the previous connections.
When assembling, you must remember that you should not tighten the cord too tightly, since the boards should be fairly loose in relation to each other. This is necessary so that the resulting structure can take the shape of a chair.
After pulling the cord, it reverse side The design is tied with a double knot.
Next, in the top board and in the second board from the bottom, with a distance from the edge of 35÷40 mm, in the middle of the board on both sides, two holes are drilled, symmetrical relative to the center.
They will be needed to stretch the cords of the required length, from which the chair will be suspended.
To ensure that the cords do not converge pyramidally upward, but are stretched required distance, in the upper part, just below the suspension point of the structure, they must be fixed with a wooden frame.
After passing through the frame, all the cords are connected and woven into one rope.
The result is comfortable armchair, which can be additionally equipped with a foam mattress or pillow for comfort.
Second option

Second option wooden chair It’s even easier to make than the first one, but it’s more suitable for a summer cottage as a . However, taking the proposed design as a basis and strengthening it, even a hanging sofa can be made using this principle.


In order to make just such a chair, you will need:

- 14 well-processed boards 500÷700 mm long, 50÷60 mm wide, 15÷20 mm thick.

— Nylon cord with a diameter of 10 mm, a length of 10 m.

— Self-tapping screws with wide hats(press washers) 10 mm long.

In principle, you will only need tools if the lumber is pre-treated and coated with protective compounds.

  • The first step is to lay out the boards evenly parallel to each other, face down, with a distance of approximately 10 mm between them.
  • Next, you need to determine how long the cord will be needed on each side - for this, fitting is done.
  • Between the laid boards, at a distance of 40–50 mm from the edge, a cord is laid like a snake, and then it is laid in the same way in the opposite direction. Thus, each of their parts must be “dressed” with cords on both sides. The cords are twisted together in the gaps between the boards, pulling them so that the distance between the crossbars is approximately 8÷10 mm.
  • When the cord is completely intertwined on one side of the chair, on the bottom board, on the wrong side of the chair, both ends of the cord are aligned and securely pressed with a self-tapping screw with a wide head.

Prices for hanging swing chair

hanging swing chair

After this, the same thing is done on the other side of the chair.

  • Now on each crossbar, on both sides, with back side chairs, installed cords are fixed by screwing in self-tapping screws.
  • That's it, the chair is ready, and all that remains is to fasten the slings and hang it in the chosen place.

How to hang a chair

The hanging chairs discussed above can be fixed indoors or in street conditions. If you decide to hang the finished chair from the ceiling, then you need to carefully prepare the place for this. The ceiling must be strong enough to guarantee that it can hold a mount with a load of at least 120 kg.


  • If the ceiling is concrete and has no voids, then, as a rule, there are no problems with mounting the fasteners. It is enough to drill a hole for a powerful anchor with a hook, and then fix the suspension.

In the assortment of hardware stores you can even find a special kit designed for such an application - an anchor, a hook, a metal chain.

  • If the ceiling slabs have voids, then a hole is made in the place required for hanging the chair, through which the cavity is filled with a special solution. These mixtures have a different name and are made on the basis of high-strength polymers. Such compositions are usually sold in special packaging (tubes) for construction syringes.

Special composite polymer composition - “chemical anchor”

When the hole in the ceiling is filled, a metal anchor with a hook or ring is installed into it, and then left for at least two days until the solution is completely polymerized and hardened. Only after this will it be possible to hang the chair on the mount.

  • If the ceiling has guaranteed reliable, strong floor beams, then fastenings specially designed for hanging a chair are bolted onto them.

  • If the capital ceiling is covered with a suspended structure, then another fastening option is used to hang the chair, which has a connecting section of the required length, ending with a threaded coupling. This bracket is attached to concrete ceiling and comes out through the surface suspended ceiling, and then a ring or hook, usually with a decorative collar, is screwed into it. Next, you can hang a chair from the ring.

  • You should not come up with your own fastening structure, as it may simply not withstand a heavy load. It is recommended to purchase a special ceiling mount made of high-strength metal alloys and designed for the appropriate load.
  • Slings for hanging a chair can be chains, cords, ropes, ready-made or independently woven from durable fabrics. It is desirable that the ropes correspond to the chosen style solution and are in harmony with both the chair itself and the overall interior of the room.

Other interesting options for hanging chairs

There are other options for hanging chairs that can be made at home. Perhaps someone will find one of these designs simpler or more interesting.

  • This model of swing chair can be made not only by those who master the technique of weaving macrame. Those who have basic sewing skills can handle it just fine, since the back and seat are woven, knitted or sewn.

For manufacturing you will need slings and four wooden or plastic parts. From wooden elements a kind of frame is fastened together, which will become the frame for the seat and backrest, and slings for hanging the chair from the ceiling are also tied to it.

Find out how to do this by checking out a few available options, in an article on our portal.

A chair like this is quite comfortable for adults, but most likely not suitable for small children, as it is not safe enough.

  • This version of the chair can be made independently by those who have mastered the welding craft, since the frame for such a design is made of steel reinforcement and metal sheet. The seat of the chair is made of plywood, on which foam rubber is laid and fixed, and then covered with leatherette or leather.

Frameless chair- only fabric, foam rubber and strong cords
  • For this swing chair you will need thick fabric, foam rubber, which will give the seat and back its shape, a nylon cord and a wooden spacer piece for the slings. To make such a chair, you only need sewing machine, centimeter, scissors and the ability to work with these tools.

  • Another interesting option this is not an ordinary piece of furniture. The most complex element in this design is the frame part of the back. In this case, it is made of bent wood, but it can be replaced, for example, with two metal-plastic pipes. They are fastened together with construction tape, and then decorated with a nylon cord binding, or first sheathed with padding polyester, and then with thick fabric or leatherette. The slings are also made from rope or cord, and the seat and back are cut out of durable fabric and attached to the frame back in four places, in the same place where the slings will be attached.

From the examples discussed in the article, it is clear that making a hanging chair yourself is not such an impossible task; it is feasible for any diligent person. Therefore, you can choose the option that is most harmonious for a particular interior and is most suitable in terms of the complexity of the work and the level of your own skill, and then feel free to get to work.

At the end of the article - a detailed demonstration of the manufacture of a country hanging hammock chair.

Video: Making a hammock chair yourself

A hanging macrame chair is the dream of many, young and old. Therefore, it is not surprising that there are now a great many offers on the market for the sale of such chairs. And you can always buy a ready-made hanging chair, of course, self made. But the price of such a chair is sometimes shocking.

Don't have any extra money? Do you have a couple of hours of free time in the evenings? And you really want to have your own cozy rocking chair? So why not weave a hanging chair using the macrame technique with your own hands. This way you will get a truly exclusive chair, in the color and size you want, and most importantly, cheaply.

Before proceeding directly to the master classes on making such chairs, let’s make a reservation: a finished hanging chair can be attached either to the ceiling in an apartment or to a special support in the yard at the dacha. We will discuss ways to hang such chairs in more detail in a separate article.

DIY round hammock chair detailed master class

So, let's begin the first master class on weaving a round hammock chair, with step-by-step photo instructions and additional diagrams.

When I say round, I mean the seat of the chair, but its top somewhat resembles a tent.

As a matter of fact, it is more convenient to start weaving a chair from the seat. In the future, connect the finished seat with the back, add fringe if desired, and you can admire the result. But first things first.

Necessary materials:

  • polyester cord (D 4.5 -5 mm, 800-900 meters);
  • gymnastic ring (D 17 cm, thickness 2-2.5 cm);
  • steel gymnastic hoop (D 90 cm);
  • hook No. 8-9, scissors, tape measure.

We weave the chair seat

As I mentioned, let's start with the seat. To begin with, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the simplest, in my opinion, version of weaving “net” or, as this technique is usually called in macrame: “Chess of flat knots”. We will discuss other options in the future.

The photo of the instructions shows a diagram of weaving a double flat/square knot and a mesh of them.

In addition, for those new to macrame, I have attached a video tutorial with a detailed explanation of how to weave a network of square knots.

For such a seat you will need a large steel hoop (aluminum will bend) and about 96 meters of cord.

The cord should be cut as follows:

  • 8 threads of 6 meters;
  • 4 x 5.5 m;
  • 4 x 4.5 m;
  • 2 x 4 m.
In terms of the length of the cord it turns out: 48+22+18+8=96 meters.

In photo No. 3, I marked each cord with a certain color so that it would be clearer to you where each one ended up on the hoop (I think in the future it will become clear to you why we cut them to different lengths).

So, first we attach the longest ones (these are 8 pieces of 6 m each) in photo 5 point - they are marked green. We tie them in pairs at a distance of 6 cm from each other.

Please note that the cord is folded in half and secured with a special knot - it is shown in photo No. 4. And in the addition diagram, which is presented just below with a separate photo: there are four fastening options. Which option to use is up to you. The main thing is that in the end, from one cut 6 meters: you get two working threads 3 m long.

The tied ropes must be fixed (so that they do not slip). To do this, in each pair (which is 4 threads of 3 m each) we knit a square knot - pattern No. 6.

From tied threads we weave a checkerboard net (video lesson above).


A few words about mounting: the photo below shows the promised four options. These are regular fastenings with a lock either on the face or inside out, and extended fastenings also on the face or inside out.

Why pay attention to them? If in the future you don’t want to spend a lot of extra rope on wrapping the hoop (so that it doesn’t peek out), and don’t dream of a chic fringe. It's better to use an extended mount - this will hide a little more of the hoop.


The second thing I want to draw your attention to in this version of weaving a seat for a hanging chair: the outer threads (2 x 4 m) are tied to a hoop - they are highlighted in the diagram yellow. Well, in fact, she schematically gave examples of how you can tie them to a hoop.


We weave a hanging macrame chair

We cut 20 threads of 10 meters each (i.e. cord consumption - 200 m).

We fold each rope in half and tie a knot in the middle (in the work, 20 threads of 10 m each will again turn into 40 of 5 m each).

We focus on the two threads on the sides (remember that one thread is two working threads). Accordingly, it turns out that we have two threads on the left and 2 on the right (they need to be highlighted somehow - alternatively, wind their ends).

We divide all the cords in half in the middle (for convenience, throw them over the door). We are working with the first part: 20 ropes, 2 of them with windings (one on the left and one on the right, respectively). Using these threads we weave 12 square/double flat knots (the bulk of the ropes are braided with four selected ones). At the end, tie the threads with windings in a knot (pictured No. 3).

Then the knots tied in the center unravel, unroll the work No. 4 and weave 15 more knots.

Next, we connect the edges (we form a loop - No. 6) and continue to braid 38 with the same two cords. Now it is better to hang the loop on a carabiner or, if there is none, on a belt, etc. We weave 3-4 knots and tie these 2 threads with windings in a knot, dividing all the ropes in half.

Now pay attention to point 8: unfold the loop as shown in the photo, find two ropes with wound ends and make them the middle of a square knot. Those. this time they tie up. Next, we weave 4 square knots sequentially in a row.


And again we take two threads with wound edges (the remaining two) and tie them too. From the remaining threads we tie 4 more knots - the result should be a row of 10 square knots (40 threads / 4 per knot = 10 knots).

We knit in checkerboard pattern a couple more rows and tie the ropes to a small ring.

Cords with wound edges are marked in red (No. 16).

No. 17 we start weaving slings.

They will hold the hanging chair in front. For them you need to add ropes: cut 8 by 6 meters (consumption 48 meters). We tie them with an extended knot No. 19.


We tie 4 in front, and 2 on the sides. We knit a series of square knots and divide them in half (we need two slings).

We work with the first one: we knit a couple more rows of double flat knots (in the end we get 3 rows of knots), retreat 10 cm and knit 3 rows again and repeat until you get the desired length. Weave the second line the same way, try to keep them symmetrical.

If you already know where your beautiful chair will hang, do it because it will be more convenient for you. Please note that when loaded, polyester cords will stretch a little - i.e. the seat will lower by 10-20 cm.

At this point, the slings are ready; all that remains is to tie them to the finished seat.

No. 24 we weave the back of the chair using the macrame technique.

We will again need additional threads, we cut 16 by 9 meters (this is another 144 m). We tie them to the ring, 4 in the back in the middle, and 2 in the remaining intervals (I drew a diagram below so as not to confuse you in these additions, so don’t be alarmed).

We move the threads with windings towards the slings; in photo No. 25 they are marked in blue. Just tie them with rep knots (shown schematically No. 27).


Promised diagram of added ropes. I drew them according to the number of “cuts”. We remember that after tying to the base they “turn into two”.

Those. 8 threads of 6 meters = 16 threads of 3 m; 16 threads of 9 meters = 32 of 4.5 m.

We tie the slings to the seat of the chair at a distance of 77-80 cm.

And we proceed to the actual weaving of the back. You can choose the pattern yourself, whatever suits your soul. Let me draw your attention to the first row of nodes. In the diagram below I have already drawn the specific number of threads that is obtained at this stage.

In the first row you get 13 knots, if you knit the second with a checkerboard, you get 14, etc.



The wide, beautiful openwork back is the main highlight of the macrame hanging chair. Accordingly, the wider the back you need, the more threads you add.

This version includes:

  • 4 threads - 7.50 m each (30 m);
  • 4 - 7 m each (28);
  • 4 - 6.50 m each (26);
  • 4 - 6 m each (24);
  • 4 - 5 m each (20).
In total, an additional 128 meters were woven.

Adding threads to the back is demonstrated in photos No. 37-39.

Finally, along the edge of the design at the bottom, pass a couple of rows of flat knots or secure the design next to rep knots.

Tie the finished back to the hoop from the middle (pulling it evenly, symmetrically to the center, tie the side threads).


At the finish line, we conjure over the fringe, additionally cut the threads for the front 160 cm, for the back 180 cm. Tie them tightly until the gaps on the hoop are completely filled (and of course, do not forget about symmetry).

We will weave the skirt together from additionally tied ones and from the ones hanging from the back, slings and seat. By the way, at this stage you can cut off the excess (if any) and use it to create a skirt.

Simply tie pieces of sufficient length to the hoop; short pieces (in case of shortage) can be “soldered”. Heat the edges with a lighter and quickly connect both ends. Use soldered threads only in fringes that are not under load!

If there is enough cord, then run 150 - 200 meters onto the fringe.

Another important point: before weaving a particular pattern on the skirt of your chair, you need to “fasten” the threads. Alternatively, first weave a brid or a couple of rows of flat knots. And then, with a calm soul, weave your pattern; you can also complete it with a brid. We trim the fringe threads evenly and admire the hanging chair we made with our own hands.

Such a chair will withstand a hundred and something kilograms, the main thing is that the fasteners can withstand it.

Let's summarize the thread consumption: seat 96 m + base 200 m + slings 48 m + back 144 m + additionally 128 m woven into the back + fringe 200 m = 816 meters.

Tell me, did you change the threads there, adding extra ones? Even the same “knitter” cannot have two identical chairs. It is better to cut off the “extra” than to redo the entire chair due to a lack of them. In addition, excess trimmings, as I already mentioned, can be used in the fringe of the hammock chair. Experiment - come up with your own patterns, you will definitely end up with a beautiful macrame hanging chair.




A couple of ideas on how to make a chair seat differently.


Here the seat is crocheted, more details about it in the master class presented below.


The second option for weaving a hanging chair

This option of weaving a macrame chair can be called economical in comparison with the first. The first chair took 800-900 m, but this is only 400. Accordingly, you will weave such a chair faster.


We begin again to make a hanging chair from the seat. In this version it is crocheted. Crochet a round napkin, then tie it to the hoop (using the same hook - do not cut the thread).

In this option, it is better to wrap the hoop with twine in advance.


We begin to make the loop in the same way as in the first version. I signed everything in detail in the photo instructions.


The threads used to weave the square knots are marked in blue and green. As a result, they securely hold the seat: two in front and two in back.





There's really no need to go through the trouble of coming up with complex pattern for the seat of a hanging hammock chair. After all, it will still be covered with a pillow or feather bed. But a beautiful skirt with fringe can be significantly improved appearance your chair.


Well, I prefer the “solid” back of macrame chairs; a mesh of double flat knots is prettier when there is a small distance between them and a lot of ropes are involved. But that's up to you to decide.


Please note that you can not only modify macrame patterns, but also the very basis of the design of your hanging chair. Add a circle on top of the same diameter as the seats and you have a great mini hanging tent.



You can completely abandon the round base.




Macrame hanging chair with short back

From two hoops different diameters you can weave a cozy hanging chair with a low back.


Load-bearing twisted chains can be woven into the back of the chair.




Or you can attach them purely to the hoops.


In addition, you don’t have to connect the hoops end to end at the front.






Or this kind of modernization.


It’s true that with just one hoop you can make an unusual round hammock chair with your own hands, see the video master class for inspiration.

And one more example for inspiration (this time without a hoop). This chair is made with a wooden seat. Why not?



The fastest and cheapest way to make a hanging hammock chair using the macrame technique

How to quickly and inexpensively weave a hanging chair using the macrame technique? I show the final, simplest option.

Here you will need to make a wooden base, and then weave the familiar network of square knots. All steps are demonstrated in detail on step by step photos instructions.



The result is a beautiful macrame hammock hanging chair.


That's it, our selection of master classes on how to weave a round hanging macrame chair with your own hands has come to an end. For inspiration, don't be afraid to experiment!

By the way, before you start weaving such chairs, take a look at ours - there are very decent options that will surely appeal to someone.

Active children's recreation most often requires considerable effort and labor on the part of parents. The restless nature and energy of real adventures and attractions. Of the entire list of children's swings that can be made and installed on a home or country site, the most interesting are the children's nest swings. They can be made without much expense, especially since most of the materials can be found in the garage or purchased on the market for little money.

What is the secret of the swing nest

Main difference hanging swing The nest from the usual bench or basket versions of swing-carousels consists of an unusual rounded shape of the seat, for which the children's attraction received such an unusual name. At first glance, the swing nest is nothing special, but this is not entirely true.

Thanks to the specific shape of the support platform and the way it is suspended, children now have several additional options:

  • The design allows you to swing both longitudinally and transversely, rotate and even jump;
  • A round nest swing with a sufficiently large seat diameter can accommodate several people at once, which eliminates competition and children’s grievances;
  • The oval version of the swing can easily be transformed into a regular hammock or a place for a child to rest during the day.

For your information! The load on the ropes and cords of the nest swing is several times higher than the force on the suspensions of conventional amusement rides.

Therefore, safe polypropylene ropes or metal chains with fabric braiding are used for the suspension system. Children like polymer ropes best because there is no bounce or shock absorption on the steel hangers in the nest.

Children's attraction device

In order to make a swing nest with your own hands, you will need to make four main parts:

  • A support structure made of wood and metal, to which the ropes and the nest itself will be attached;
  • Hanging system with loops and rings;
  • The central part of the attraction is the seat. For home option The easiest way is to make a round swing nest.

Most of the creativity and effort will need to be devoted to creating the nest itself. Children will agree to ride on simple suspensions like car tire, But positive emotions and there will be much more joy if you don’t limit yourself to creating a fabric version, but try to make a round swing nest with a mesh in the central part of the seat.

How to make an attraction for the whole summer

In order to make the swing as safe as possible, without the risk of cuts or injury to hands and knees, the seat and suspension are covered with fabric, and the central part is woven from towing or climbing rope, which is very durable and flexible.

The choice of finishing options for the mesh and durable seat base is quite large, for example, patchwork, macrame or tatting. If you have the skills, you can even knit a cover for the nest from nylon threads, which can be easily removed and, if necessary, cleaned and put in order.

Make the main part of the swing

There are several options for making a nest, all of them equally follow the same pattern. In order to make a beautiful and at the same time durable and comfortable seat, you will need the following materials:

  • Steel water pipe 3.5-4 m long or a pair of gymnastic hoops;
  • Thin felt, synthetic tent fabric, preferably in bright colors, and a sheet of foam rubber, at least 30 mm thick;
  • Climbing safety cord or repik, 5-6 mm in diameter. The amount of material will have to be selected experimentally, based on the density of the knitting and the size of the metal frame;
  • Safety steel locks or carabiners with a mesh size of at least 50 mm.

Advice! The suspension mount can be made from three or four mounting clamps used to assemble exhaust pipes on small cars.

The mounting diameter of such ties ranges from 50 mm to 90 mm, so you will have to make several selections before you can choose the optimal size.

At the first stage, you will need to make a steel frame for the nest. Despite the fact that it is planned to make a swing nest with your own hands for children no older than 10-11 years old, practice shows that older children also enjoy playing on the attraction. So an extra margin of safety won't hurt.

The simplest version of the nest frame can be made from folded steel hoops. Metallic profile You cannot drill to connect two hoops into a frame; it is best to use clamps or loops. You will get a nest for a swing designed for the weight of one baby, but it is unlikely that he and you will be satisfied with this option.

If a swing requires a large diameter nest, for example, 100-150 cm, the ring frame can be bent from steel pipe on a pipe bending machine. The optimal pipe diameter is 12-15 mm. After rolling and welding the ends, you will need to clean the seam, and at the same time the entire surface of the metal for painting.

In this version, rings for hanging the seat from the swing frame can be made from steel wire and immediately weld it to the steel frame pipe. It's time to make the swing frame and suspension system.

How to attach a nest hanging system to a swing

After completing the hardest part of the work, the hands themselves are drawn to quickly finish the swing nest with a net and hang it on an anchor hook for the first test. In fact, there is no need to rush to do the finishing; you will still need to select a place, hook the slings to the seat and check the operation of the swing in the rough version.

To install a swing, it is best to make a classic one support frame from timber with a cross section of 100x100 mm or profiled steel pipe. To do this, you will need to make two supports in the shape of the letter “A” and one crossbar; you can use the same beam, but it is better to install a two-inch steel pipe. The distance between the supports is chosen equal to the height of the swing.

Suspension slings made of polypropylene rope or fabric-covered chain can be attached to the crossbar pipe in pairs.

Under the tied knot, you can make a lining of polyester fabric, this reduces abrasion of the rope. The socket itself is attached to at least four carabiners. If there are problems with the correct separation of the lines on the crossbar, you can make a suspension according to a combined pattern, as in the photo.

After assembling and hanging the nest on the swing, tests need to be carried out. To do this, it is enough to lay several boards on the frame hoop and load it with a weight of 100-150 kg. At the same time, it will be possible to determine how much to tighten the suspension lines in order to maintain the optimal distance to the ground.

Finishing and decorating the swing nest

In the classic version, such attractions are made like a swing nest with a net. Mesh weaving provides a comfortable fit on the seat, allows children to grab the ropes with their hands, does not collect water in the rain, and is almost impossible to slip off the nest mesh.

Weaving a seat can be done in several ways. The most popular option is “Spider Web”, which is at the same time the simplest, most durable and reliable.

Initially, you will need to pull two loops of rope tightly. For weaving, it is best to use jute ropes, since polypropylene has a lot of stretch. Each loop must be aligned so that the intersection is in the center of the socket and secured to the hoop. To prevent the ropes from weakening, the knot on the hoop can be impregnated with an emulsion of PVA glue and water. After all the loops of the nest are stretched, you can make a braid of the web from more soft material, for example, a rope covered with soft fabric.

If desired, you can make other weaving options; on a swing they will work no worse than a spider’s web.

Before finally hanging the nest on the swing, the hoop is covered with a two-layer protection. Initially, foam rubber is glued to the metal, then polypropylene foam thermal insulation for pipes, after which the hoop is wrapped with rope, as in the photo.

The outer edge of the socket should be soft to prevent bruising and injury, and at the same time resistant to abrasion. Most of the load when children ride on a swing falls on the frame of the nest, so you can additionally make several replaceable covers from polyester fabric.

An unusual swing option

For relaxation and active pastime at the dacha, you can do unusual options home attraction - cocoon swing. Initially, the design was conceived for use as an alternative to a rocking chair, but later the children were successfully able to make their own version of a swing out of it. If there is no swing nest at your dacha, you can make a cocoon in which it is equally comfortable to swing and relax.

Building a cocoon, unlike a nest, will require significantly more effort and money. It is necessary to bend a dozen arcs on a pipe bending machine, with a profile resembling a drop or a cocoon.

The most difficult thing is to weld the arcs in the form of half a cocoon. After assembly, you will need to correctly determine the line of the center of gravity and attach a suspension, preferably a cable or chain one. After painting and equipping with cushions, the swing chair can be fixed to the frame. Unlike a lightweight nest, the weight of a cocoon is several tens of kilograms, so the suspension must be done on a very strong floor.

Conclusion

According to numerous reviews from parents, the nest swing is very popular among children. In some cases, the kids got so used to the nest that they completely ignored the usual swing-carousel with wooden seats. But it is worth remembering that any children's attraction requires constant attention; you have to constantly adjust and tighten the lines, clean the nest pads and check the fastening of the carabiners, so the work on the swing never ends.