A generator is a device that produces products that produce electrical energy or transforming it into another. What is the device, how to make a generator, what is the principle of its operation, what is the difference from a synchronous generator? We'll talk about this later.
A generator is an electric machine that converts mechanical energy into current electricity. In most cases, a rotational type of magnetic field is used for this. The apparatus consists of a relay, a rotating inductor, slip rings, a terminal, a sliding brush, a diode bridge, diodes, a slip ring, a stator, a rotor, bearings, a rotor shaft, a pulley, an impeller and a front cover. Often the design includes a coil with an electromagnet that generates energy.
DIY generator
It is important to note that the generator can be alternating or DC. In the first case, eddy currents are not generated, the device can operate under extreme conditions and has a reduced weight. In the second case, the generator does not need increased attention and has more resources.
The alternating current generator can be synchronous or asynchronous. The first is a unit that operates as a generator, where the number of rotations of the stator is equal to the rotor. The rotor generates a magnetic field and creates an EMF in the stator.
Pay attention! The result is a permanent electric magnet. Among the advantages, the high stability of the generated voltage is noted; among the disadvantages, there is current overload, since when the load is too high, the regulator increases the current in the rotor winding.
Synchronous machine design
The asynchronous device consists of a squirrel-cage rotor and exactly the same stator as the previous model. When the rotor rotates, the asynchronous generator induces an electric current and the magnetic field creates a sinusoidal voltage. Since it has no connection with the rotor, there is no possibility to artificially regulate the voltage and current. These parameters change under the electrical load on the starter winding.
The device of an asynchronous device
Operating principle
Any generator operates according to the electromagnetic inductive law, due to the induction of electric current in a closed frame by the intersection of a rotating magnetic field, created using permanent magnets or windings. The electromotive force enters a closed loop from the commutator and brush assembly along with the magnetic flux, the rotor rotates and generates voltage. Thanks to spring-loaded brushes, which are pressed against the plate commutators, electric current is transmitted to the output terminals. Then it goes to the user’s network and spreads through electrical equipment.
Operating principle
Difference from synchronous generator
Synchronous gasoline generator is not overloaded due to transient conditions that are associated with starting under load from consumers of similar power. It is a source of reactive power, while asynchronous one consumes it. The first one is not afraid of overloads in the set mode thanks to the auto-regulation system through a connection that is inverse to the current with the voltage in the wire. The second has an artificially unregulated adhesion force of the electromagnetic rotor field.
Pay attention! It is important to understand that the asynchronous version is more popular due to its simple design, unpretentiousness, lack of need for technically qualified service and comparative cheapness. It is installed when: there are no high requirements for frequency and voltage; the unit is supposed to operate in a dusty place; There is no way to overpay for another variety.
Scope of application
An alternating current generator is a multifunctional device, thanks to which energy can be transmitted over long distances and at the same time quickly redistributed. In addition, it is converted into light, thermal, mechanical and other energy according to instructions. Easy to manufacture. Therefore, their scope of application is wide. Today, such devices are used everywhere: both in industry and in everyday life. They are equipped with a powerful motor.
For example, an electric and wind generator will be useful at a time when the volts network is turned off, an accident occurs at a power plant, and additional energy is needed in the engine.
The gasoline and magnetic generator, due to its light weight and compactness, can be transported and used in agriculture, at the dacha, in the forest. It will serve as equipment rapid response and will help create emergency lighting.
Scope of application
Device classification
The classification of the device is extensive. Today it can be asynchronous and synchronous, with a fixed rotor or stator, single-phase, two-phase and three-phase, with independent or self-excitation, with field windings or excitation from a permanent magnet.
Pay attention! It is worth noting that on at the moment Three-phase models are more popular due to the rotating circular magnetic field, the balance of the system, operation in several modes and high levels efficiency.
Equipment classification
Device assembly diagram
You can assemble electric generators for 220 with your own hands by analogy with the production model. For this you may need video tutorials or teaching aids. Then you need to correctly connect all devices of one system. This can be done using a star or triangle pattern.
In the first case, the electrical connection occurs for all ends of the windings of one point, and in the second case, a series type of winding generator connections is provided. It is important to note that these circuits can only be used if the phase load is uniform. Then the topic of how to make a generator at home will be relevant.
Star connection diagram
In general, a generator is a device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy using a wire type of magnetic field coil. Depending on the number of phases, units come with one, two and three phases.
Triangle connection diagram
You can make it today with your own hands, using the special scheme indicated above.
A pocket flashlight has become an item of equipment for every tourist. But the problem is that you have to save battery energy. But you can take a power plant with you. It weighs almost the same as a spare 4.5 V battery, and it won't take up much more space in your backpack. Let's give a hint: our electric generator homemade camping power station - almost any microelectric motor direct current with excitation from permanent magnets, and the energy source is wind.
Camping power station
The operating principle of a homemade camping power station - a mini-generator shown in Figure 1. The current generator with a propeller is mounted on a pole. Wires go from the generator to the light bulb. The propeller automatically “follows” the wind using a weather vane - the “tail”. The challenge is how to make the power plant as simple and easy as possible. It is also necessary that it can be easily disassembled into parts, and the main components can be repaired or remade from improvised means right on the go.
Let's start with the generator. The easiest way to get microelectric motors from the Moscow plant “Young Technician” is type DP-1 or MDP-1. When purchasing them in a store, try to choose those whose rotor rotates more easily. The smallest power plant will be obtained if you use microelectric motors of the KM USH-a-38 type, which are produced in Germany and are sold here as spare parts for models railways. And if you have the opportunity to use microelectric motors of the PD-3 type (of any series), the power plant will turn out to be the most powerful. True, these engines are the heaviest of all those named. The main dimensions of all listed engines are shown in Figure 2.
To rotate the generator you need a propeller. There are many options for its design. However for hiking conditions a propeller that can be easily removed from the generator shaft, or one with folding blades, is preferred. The removable propeller is shown in Figure 3.
It is made from the bottom tin can. A boss machined into the center is soldered into lathe. A hole is drilled in the boss and a thread is cut for the MZ screw. The angle of inclination of the blades is about 30°. The number of blades is from 8 to 12.
Most simple design with folding blades is shown in Figure 4. The blades are made of wire, for example spring wire, OBC grade, with a diameter of 1-1.5 mm and wrapped in foil. The pointed ends of the wire are inserted into pre-pierced holes in the rubber plug-boss. The blade angle is the same as in the first design. It is best to drill the central hole in the boss using a drill or lathe. A tube of suitable diameter, 20-25 mm long, should be soldered onto the electric motor shaft. Drill a hole in the boss with a drill with a diameter 0.5-1 mm smaller than the outer diameter of the tube. Such blades need to be made with a reserve, about five of them, which will allow you to change the characteristics of the propeller depending on the wind strength. If you forget your blades at home, don't despair. They can be planed from a suitable piece of wood (Fig. 4a) or even feathers from large birds can be used instead.
The wind is usually capricious and often changes direction. Therefore, complement the set of parts with one more - a weather vane. Its designs are shown in Figures 1 and 5.
In a board (Fig. 5) 200-300 mm long, make a groove according to the dimensions of the electric motor. The engine is secured in it with wire, twine or rubber bands from pharmacy bottles. Drill a hole in the center of the board as close to the engine as possible. Here, on a wire pin with a pointed end, the weather vane will be mounted on a pole. To improve its rotation, insert a 30-50 mm long tube into the hole. Drive a nail into the end of the board. Attach a “tail” to it: a handkerchief, a long ribbon or a washcloth, like a kite.
The power plant is ready. If necessary, the power plant can be made to work on the move. True, in this case it is better to use a 1.5 V light bulb. It will burn quite brightly even in calm weather if you walk at a brisk pace.
There is a pocket power station for use at home. By replacing the light bulb with a 1-1.5 A DC ammeter or a 3-5 V voltmeter, you will have a device for measuring wind speed. True, for this you will have to calibrate the reading scale.
All materials from the “Ideas for the Master” section
Home → Electricity → Homemade small wind generators →
second part: windmill installation, readings and electronics
Mini wind generator made from a permanent magnet motor
I was prompted to build this wind generator by one of the publications I came across about homemade wind generators.
From this article I realized that in the construction small windmill There is nothing particularly complicated, the main thing is desire. The idea of providing myself with an autonomous source of energy has been in my head for a long time, and after looking at the experiences of others, I decided to build my own windmill.
Such wind generators were often made on the basis of small DC motors, from all sorts of scanners and drives, and I decided to repeat these rather successful experiments.
In terms of price, such a wind generator will cost no more than 2-5 thousand rubles, the main price is the electric motor, which will be used as a generator. With economical consumption, you can generate 50...250 W, which is significantly cheaper than solar panels of similar power.
Here, for those who are interested, is my story about how I built the generator.
To build such windmills, you don’t need special tools, but rather what almost everyone has in their garage or closet is enough. To make my design, I only needed a drill and a jigsaw, which I used to cut out the blades, and other little things (keys, bolts, ruler, tape measure, pencil, etc.) in general, something that is usually available or purchased in a store for small money.
I myself have a very modest budget, so I decided to make the cheapest possible wind generator, so I looked for the simplest and most affordable ways to build my own wind turbine.
For the construction, I used the materials that were available and lying idle on my site to the maximum.
P y P f There is nothing complicated in making blades.
How to make a mini wind generator with your own hands?
Usually the pipe is divided into three equal parts lengthwise and sawn. This material saws quite well and can even be sawed with a hacksaw, but I had a jigsaw, which made the task easier, although they also often saw with blades for metal.
To secure it to the shaft, I used an adapter, this is a special attachment for attaching disks to the shaft.
Having previously marked the disk, I drilled holes for the bolts for fastening the blades and assembled everything into a single structure, below you see what I came up with. I think it turned out successful, reliable, simple and neat.
Next, I had to secure the generator to something, and for this I used a piece of a square. I didn’t bother with the fastening, but simply pulled the generator to the beam with clamps, additionally wrapping it in a casing made from a piece of PVC pipe.
>
>
>
>
The tail was cut out of an aluminum sheet, and for fastening to the beam, I cut two lines along which the tail is inserted and secured to the bolts through drilled holes. As a rotary axis, I used a piece of pipe and a flange, which I screwed to the beam after pre-drilling the holes.
Below is a photo of an almost finished wind generator; all that remains is to build a mast and raise it into the wind.
>
>
>
During assembly I painted all the parts at once. car paint in cans.
The mast was assembled from water pipes Using ready-made adapters, this made it possible to significantly simplify the assembly process without resorting to welding or drilling for bolts. During the assembly process, I worked like a mechanic using adjustable wrenches, as if assembling a water supply unit.
The result is a fairly strong and reliable mast.
Wind generators from car generators
>
Windmill from an auto-generator with a double stator
The wind generator from Moto26 is made from a car generator with a double stator. The windmill is made to operate on a 24-volt battery, the total power is 300 watts with a wind of 9 m/s. Details and photos in the article.
>
DIY wind generator
Almost a completely homemade wind generator, the generator of which was originally supposed to be from a car generator, but after the housing was broken, only the stator remained from the generator, and a new housing had to be made. 
>
Wind generator from an auto-generator from Bychka
The generator of this windmill is made from a car generator from the Bychek truck.
The stator is rewound with a 0.6 mm wire. The rotor is completely new, it was turned by a turner according to the right sizes for purchased magnets 30*10*5mm. 
>
Simple modification of a car generator
The simplest conversion of a car generator to permanent magnets.
The generator for this windmill was made from a self-generator, the stator of which was not subject to changes, but the rotor was equipped with neodymium magnets. 
>
Generator for a windmill from an auto-generator
How simple and without special effort remake the autogenerator for homemade wind generator. To remake it, you don’t need to rewind the stator or sharpen the rotor for magnets.
The whole alteration comes down to switching the phases of the generator and equipping the rotor with small magnets for self-excitation of the rotor. 
>
Single blade propeller for wind generator
In continuation of the improvement of the wind generator, this time it was decided to try to make a single-blade propeller and see what advantages it provides and what disadvantages are inherent in single-blade propellers.
The blade with a counterweight is not rigidly mounted and can deviate from the axis of rotation up to 15 degrees. 
>
Wind generator from tractor generator G700
This wind generator uses tractor generator with electrical excitation.
Let's make an electric generator with our own hands
The generator has undergone significant changes, the stator was rewinded with a thinner wire, and the rotor coil was also rewinded. For this windmill, the propeller was made of duralumin. The propeller is two-blade with a span of 1.3 m. 
>
Homemade wind generator for a yacht
Homemade wind generator, the generator of which is made from the generator of the IZH Jupiter motorcycle. This wind generator was specially created for operation on a small yacht, where it was supposed to provide power to navigation instruments and small electronics.
>
New-second wind generator for a yacht
The new wind generator used a stator from car generator. The power of the new windmill is now greater, and the diameter of the propeller has also increased.
Now the wind generator has new protection from strong winds, now the propeller does not go to the side, but overturns, and the tail no longer folds, in general, the details are in the article.
>
Windmill flowers from bicycle speakers
Interesting and beautiful windmills, the generators of which are bicycle hub dynamos. They are made in the shape of all sorts of flowers, sunflowers, daisies, and painted in appropriate colors, they look beautiful as a design element.
E-VETEROK.RU wind and solar energy - 2013 Mail: [email protected] Google+
Calculation and production of blades
This section contains information about the design and production of a wind turbine or wind turbine propeller. Calculation of blades for PVC wind turbines, production of profiled blades. Combined calculation of propeller power and speed, wind wheel principles and the conversion of wind energy into mechanical and then electrical energy. Comparison and calculation of different types of wind generators.
>
O, screws, multi-layer, vertical
Often beginners in wind turbines cannot decide what kind of propeller they need, what kind of power a particular wind can provide. What diameter do I need to screw and how many blades 
>
An example of calculating blades from PVC pipes in an Excel spreadsheet
A program for calculating wind turbine propellers made from PVC pipes.
Lots of questions about how to use the table and how to calculate the blades. To do this, I gave examples in the article on calculating blades and how to use the table. 
>
Blade calculation program
Calculation program PVC plates. The program itself is an Excel spreadsheet that displays all necessary information for the screw.
You need to enter data into the yellow fields to get the coordinates of the blade, as well as data about traffic, power, etc. 
>
Multi-screw propeller or small blade
I decided to describe the main differences between multi-turn wind turbines with small blades.
Many people believe that multi-stage slow-action propellers have an advantage in low winds and high-speed non-fog strong winds, but this is not true. 
>
Calculation of blade angles, twisting
Once again with independent blade calculations, this time we calculate the exact angle of the blades from the wind and the required speed.
Mini generator with your own hands
Calculate blade drilling for a specific generator. There are several factors that affect the calculations in this article. 
>
Create a windmill and calculate it in simple words
How to create a wind generator, where to start and what to start with when thinking about a future wind generator.
In this article, I described the basic principles of wind generators, vertical and horizontal, without formulas. 
>
How to make blades for a wind generator
Very often the blades are made from sewer pipes, and at the same time they do everything with their own eyes, so these slices have a small Kyiv. The article presents examples of calculating blades from a tube using a special program in the form of a plate high pressure and cutting dimensions for the blade.
>
Wind wheel calculation, wind generator power
How to calculate the power of a wind generator? - in fact, this is all simpler, as it seems, to be the main thing to understand. Formula for calculating the wind force acting on the propeller, plus KIEV propeller, generator efficiency, wire losses, controller, battery.
>
Calculation of PVC pipes
The product contains many ready-made, calculated screws for selecting a wind turbine. As well as calculation tables. The calculated screws have all the necessary data, including the coordinates of the cutting blade sample from the pipe. 
>
Calculation of folding tail
Protect the wind generator from strong winds by moving the windshield in the direction of the rotation axis and folding the tail.
The spreadsheets excel calculations as well as the formulas and description of how this wind turbine hurricane protection works. 
>
Operating principle horizontal and vertical
Operating principles of Savonia-type vertical wind generators and horizontal wind generators. A description of the influence of wind and the characteristics and characteristics of the processes that allow wind to rotate. 
>
Calculation of vertical wind generators
An example of calculating barrel-type vertical wind generators for beginners to understand where it starts.
The article provides an example of a general calculation of the power and speed of a wind wheel with 2 * 3 m 
>
How to make a wind tunnel from a car generator
The article describes in detail the process of making a fan from a car generator.
Since the generator has been processed to produce the propeller and controller. As a rule, it answers all the basic questions about building wind turbines with your own hands.
E-VETEROK.RU Wind and solar energy - 2013 Mail: [email protected] Google+
DIY vertical wind generator
This detailed description designs of a rotor type wind turbine Savonius, I discovered this wonderful place here http://mirodolie.ru/node/2372 After reading the material, I decided to write about these projects and how it was done.
How it all started
The idea of building a wind turbine was born in 2005, when the site was purchased from the Mireioli family estate.
There is no electricity, and everyone solved this problem in their own way, mainly by solar collectors and gasoline generators. When the house was built, this was the first thing to be considered, and was obtained solar panel power 120 watts. In the summer it worked well, but in the winter its efficiency has decreased significantly, and on cloudy days it is currently 0.3-0.5Ah, this is not suitable, like the light, barely enough, but Had to feed the laptop and other small electronics.
Therefore, it was decided to build a wind generator that would also use wind energy. Firstly, there was a desire to build a glider wind generator. This type of wind is very large, and after a while he spent time on the Internet in his head and collected a lot of material on the computer on the computer. On a generator generator, sail wind is quite expensive, so as these small wind turbines are not built and the diameter of the propeller for wind turbines of this type must be at least five meters.
The large wind generator could not pull, but he still wanted to try to create a wind generator, at least some power to charge the battery.
The horizontal turbine propeller immediately fell so that they are loud, they have problems making slip rings and protecting the wind turbine from strong winds, and it is also difficult to make the right blade.
I wanted something simple and slow, I watched some videos online and loved vertical wind turbines like the Savonius.
In fact, they are analogues of a cutting tube, half of which are pushed out from opposite sides. When searching for information, a more advanced form of these wind generators was found - the Ugrinsky rotor. The regular Savonius has very little WEUC (wind energy exploitation), typically only 10-20%, and the Urginsky rotor has a higher WEUC, reflecting the blades' use of wind energy.
Below are the pictures to understand the robot principle of this rotor
>
Blade coordinate marking scheme
>
The Kyiv Ugrynsky rotor reported 46% and is therefore no worse than horizontal wind generators.
Well, the exercise shows what and how.
Making blades.
Before starting the rotor, the first models were made from two rotor cans.
One of the classic models of Savonia and other Ugrinskys. On models it was noticed that the Ugrynsky rotor noticeably operates at higher speeds compared to the Savonius, and the decision was made in favor of the Ugrynsky. It was decided to create a double rotor, one on top of the other with a 90° rotation to achieve more even torque and better starting.
The materials for the rotor were chosen to be the simplest and cheapest. The blades are made of aluminum foil 0.5 mm thick. Three granules are cut from 10 mm thick plywood. The balls were towed according to the above drawing and 3mm deep grooves were made to accommodate the insertion of the blades. An assembly of blades made at slight angles and tightened with screws. In addition, the adhesive plates for the strength of the entire assembly are attached to pins along the edges and in the middle, it turned out to be very rigid and hard.
>
>
The rotor size was 75 * 160 cm, and on rotor materials - about 3600 rubles.
Production of generators.
Before the generator, there were many searches for the ultimate generator, but there were hardly any sales made on them, and what you can order online cost a lot of money. Vertical wind generators have low speeds and average around 150-200 rpm for this design.
It's hard to find something ready for such rotations and not require a multiplier.
While searching for information on forums, it turned out that many people generate generators and that there is nothing complicated about it. The decision was made in favor of our own permanent magnet generator. The basis was classic design axial generator on permanent magnets in the car hub.
The first order was for neodymium magnetic washers for this generator in the amount of 32 pieces measuring 10 * 30 mm.
While the magnets were working, other parts of the generator were made. We calculate all the dimensions of the stator under the rotor, which consists of two brake discs from a VAZ car on the rear wheel hub, the windings are wound.
A simple hand tool designed for winding coils. The number of coils is from 12 to 3 per phase, so the generator is three-phase.
Do-it-yourself mini-turbine (generator)
There will be 16 magnets on the disc rotors, and the ratio is 4/3 instead of 2/3, so the generator will be slower and stronger.
Simple machines are made for winding coils.
>
The location of the stator coils is marked on paper.
>
The stator is filled with resin from plywood. Before watering, all the coils were soldered into a star, and the wires were cut along the cut channels.
>
Stator coils before overflow.
>
A fresh stator stocking, before pouring the bottom layer, is a circle of fiberglass, and after laying the coils and pouring epoxy resin on top, placed in the second circle, it is intended for additional power. Dip is added to the resin for strength, which is why it is white.
>
Thus, the same resin is poured with water and magnets are placed on the disks.
>
But already assembled generator, the base is also made of plywood.
>
After manufacturing, the generator was immediately washed by hand to check the current voltage. This was connected to a 12 volt battery. The handle was attached to the generator and looked at the other hand and turned the generator, some data was obtained. On the battery at 120 rpm it turns out that 15 volts 3.5 A, stretching the arm faster does not allow strong generator resistance.
The maximum error is at 240 rpm 43 volts.
electronics
>
The diode bridge consisted of a generator packaged in a housing, and two instruments were installed on the housing: a voltmeter and an ammeter. The same famous electronics were taken with a simple controller for it. The control principle is simple, when the batteries are fully charged, the controller connects an additional load, which consumes all the excess energy so that the batteries are not overcharged.
The first controller that merges with friends is not suitable enough, so a more robust software controller was merged.
Wind turbine installation.
The wind generator had a strong frame made of 10 * 5 cm wooden rods.
For reliability, the support rods were excavated 50 cm into the ground and the entire structure was further strengthened by extensions that were attached to the corners, which were driven into the ground. This design is very practical and quick to install, and is also easier than welding. Therefore, it was decided to build wood, but metal is expensive and there is no need to include welding anywhere.
>
There is a prepared wind generator. In this photo the generator is driven directly and then a multiplier is created which increases the rotation of the generator.
>
>
The generator drive and gear ratio can be replaced by replacing the pulleys.
>
>
>
Later, the multiplier generator is connected to the rotor.
General wind turbine produces at 50W in 7-8m/s wind, charging starts at 5m/s, although it starts spinning in 2-3m/s wind, but the speed is too slow to charge the battery.
In the future, the plan is to lift the wind turbine as described above and rework some parts of the device, while a new larger rotor can be built.
My second wind generator (from a car generator)
For the construction of a second wind turbine, I pushed the prospects future life in the country. In the cottage I was planning to build a house that I would like to live in (what happened though), but there was no electricity, so I needed to think about how to get there and surf the Internet. I found two viable options for solar collectors or wind turbine generators, or better yet both, but it costs a lot of money, so I decided to do everything myself.
Of course they aren't even solar panels, so the elements for circuit boards are expensive and create a wind station themselves.
My windmill
Photo of a home fan Preparing to build a wind turbine began with finding a suitable generator that can deliver power at low speeds.
The first thing to remember is the car generator as it can be found in any garage. I took a similar self-generator from a car enthusiast and started looking for information on how to adapt it to a wind generator. It turned out that not everything is so simple. Without rewinding and implanting magnets, this generator is not suitable as it runs at high speeds in a car, but without regeneration it can only be used with a multiplier.
I decided not to go ahead because it is complicated and would have a lot of head weight and screw size and order neodymium magnets and the stator itself. At the same time, when I submitted a topic to one of the wind turbine forums, I started putting together a generator.
To machine the rotor under magnets, I ordered 20*5*5 magnets online at 48pcs speed, and while they were mail order magnets, I started building a new rotor for this purpose, having decided to remove the autochthonous rotor generator, but will try to knock it out of the bearings, I broke the rear bearing seat, and then the bent rotor tries to remove the crab from the winding area, in general, all broken, intact just stators.
The stator is from the “classic” one with 36 teeth, tooth width 5 mm, stator thickness 25 mm and internal diameter 89 mm.
Home generator
Wind Power Generator Parts I wasn't looking for another generator, but I decided to weld a new stator housing.
The example was welded from a steel sheet 2 mm thick. Firstly, lift 2cm from the main body of the stator, it is easier to cut the eight corners into a mill than into a ball.
He then resolved two 1.5 cm wide strips and pressed them against the stator wire welded to the octagon to remove the slots for installing the stator so that no chipboard would be secured in the housing.
He then made two flanges of the same 2mm steel. under 201. Bearings and using a drill where the holes are needed to attach these flanges to the bearings.
The flanges are specifically designed to center the rotor, so you can simply weld the rings under the bearing, but they must be centered. In the photo for the bearings, not the flanges, but the rings, they had to be cut off because it was impossible to "focus exactly" on the knees, so I made the flanges.
Home rotor
Photo Rotor for the rotor of a domestic generator I did too much, I found a metal rod 12 mm thick, just below the 201st bearing of the bearing to the mounting screw. Under the magnets I needed a 76mm thick metal sleeve, exactly the same as the 89mm internal diameter of the rotor minus the magnet thickness = 5mm by 10mm and the gap between the stator and rotor 1.5mm = 3mm.
But under the sleeve I only found part of the 72 tube, so I had to make a 2mm thick steel ring, melt it and weld it to build up to 76mm thick.
The cylinder at the hairdresser decided to pour epoxy resin, so the welding was not afraid. On the scaffolding, he does not allow God to wrap the welded boards. From tin, I cut two circles with scissors along the outer diameter of the cartridge body and in the center of the circles under the coat. A pin was inserted into these holes and filled with epoxy resin. It turned out that self-rotating rotor I is polished when polished on a grinding wheel.
Yes, the rotor took a long time and it turned out wrong and unfocused, but I did it without lathes and saved money.
generator
So the generator looks like a merge. When the case was ready and even painted, I took the stator, removed the old windings, and old paint scraped out of the gutters. After reading the forum, I came to the conclusion that only a three-phase generator needs to be made, which means that the three phases must be wrapped. I wanted to buy 200 strands of 0.56mm enameled wire from the locals that move the engines, but he gave it to me because it's a gram of two hundred motorcycles.
And I'm glad I came home to go to the stator.
The stator shakes each coil directly to the tooth, just like the random winding of the winding is difficult for me, it is necessary to prepare the coil in the pushing grooves, and if the wind is directly to the teeth, it will turn out to be good and vaginal and will become longer lasting. It is used as insulation in ordinary cardboard laptops. Each tooth turned on 33_39 shows a 0.56mm wire, shaking each phase, the phase speeds up the transmission of one or two teeth, and then checks that the phase does not wind Koroto-li onto the stator and coil instead of dirty epoxy varnish.
Rotor with neodymium magnets
The end rotor with encapsulated epoxy resin magnet is a three phase 12katushek 3.3 ohm resistance. Therefore I have a magnet to rotor of 24polyus, so the ratio of magnets on coils in a three phase system is 2/3, where there are two magnets on three coils, for example if the coils have 18 poles. First attached to the rotor magnet 24 with the same distance and filled with epoxy resin.
The assembled generator, connected to the star phase and twisted, spinning at a hand counting speed per second, turned into a 200rpm 13 volt and 2A koe generator at 300rpm 20 volts and 1A for the batteries. The result was pleasant, but the generator stuck the magnets to the stator teeth, which prevents the propeller from starting in light winds, and I decided that the tilt of the magnets would be on the rotor.
Converting rotor to cone magnets
We pick out the magnets and now we will do it with a tilt, pick out the magnets, and the tilt on the imaginary magnet is tucked in and rolled up, the bonding drops by half and is barely noticeable, but the generator has lost about 35% of its power.
I thought he was going away and he was thinking about the screw but I still have magnets and I want them to do too much and I was advised to put two magnets in half on the forum and I scratched the rotor again and tried with epoxy resin.
Using super glue I fixed the magnets on the poles and made them bend.
The rotor was fully charged with magnets, doubled in power and the adhesion was not too strong, I measured and showed 0.3 Nm. Now the generator has started charging at 120 mb/m, at 200 mb/m, open circuit voltage is about 20V. I filled the epoxy magnets again and the generator was finished, I was happy, especially because it was better if I didn't do this in my case.
Theoretically, the output of the generator is about 100 W/h at 12 m/s.
Windmill House Generator
After the rotor is restored, I test the generator again for voltage and current. Then I started assembling the wind generator, first I made the rotating axis.
It was made from one bearing and a 15 gauge tube with threads and nut. The tube was filled with an epoxy insert inside the bearing and the bearing was poured onto a piece of 50mm diameter plastic tubing to release the axis of rotation.
From a profile 50 * 25 mm, length 60 cm.
Inner path. How to create a mini generator
I made a beam on which I repaired the generator, the tail, and cut a hole to fix the rotary axis. At home I found five meters of a 50 drug pipeline. Shovels from the first mini-vertebrae. The blades were made of tin without calculations, and the diameter of the blades with three blades was 1.6 m. The finished windshield was attached to the mast and raised to the wind, connected to a small battery and a multimeter. A small wind was blowing outside, the current jump was at 1A, the clock, I went to charge, I thought.
The next day the wind was stronger, the current reached 3A, and the cuts of the blades could not withstand and relied on the drug.
Indoor wind generator
Turbines after treatment and new blades made from PVC pipes. Then I was thinking about new knives, searching old forums and websites, there are all blades made from PVC pipes, and I found a piece of 110. The pipes cut three blades into a long 75 cm long located on a windmill, everything was cool, but the wind reinforcement energy did not increase much and reached a maximum at 5A at 12-15 m/s, then began to deal with knives and undermine the power of the wind turbine.
Forum found calculations for PVC bolts, looked at how wind angles were made and new blades were cut. The result was better, but not great, with light winds, also around 2A, but with strong winds up to 7A.
Generally speaking, windmill turned out to be weak, which I expected, but it worked, and this was the first charge on a small 9Ah battery, after which I put a 60Ah battery. The wind generator starts with a wind of about 4 m/s and gives a charge of about 1A, with a small force of 2-3 A and strong wind up to 8A, that is 100 W/h and an average of 20-30 W/h, not much, but not bad for me.
Later I made him a new 1.7 m diameter three-cutting screw from a 160 tube, with which he gave up to 11A on a 12 volt battery, that is, up to 140 Wh. That's why I tried to install a 24 volt battery, current in strong winds it reached 12A, that is, up to 280 W/hour and an average of 20-30 W/hour.
That’s how my other one appeared, stronger than the first wind generator. This wind generator provided me with more than two months LED lighting and a portable TV with a netbook and other minorities charging the phone and the like. But we have low winds, the average annual level is only 2.4 m/s, and often at given times of the Earth the battery needs to be dropped, so I had to build another wind generator, but more on that in the next article.
The article describes how to build a three-phase (single-phase) 220/380 V generator based on an AC asynchronous electric motor. A three-phase asynchronous electric motor, invented at the end of the 19th century by the Russian electrical engineer M.O. Dolivo-Dobrovolsky, has now become predominantly widespread in industry, agriculture, and also in everyday life.
Asynchronous electric motors are the simplest and most reliable to operate. Therefore, in all cases where this is permissible under the conditions of the electric drive and there is no need for reactive power compensation, asynchronous AC motors should be used.
There are two main types of asynchronous motors: with squirrel-cage rotor and with phase rotor. An asynchronous squirrel-cage electric motor consists of a stationary part - the stator and a moving part - the rotor, rotating in bearings mounted in two motor shields. The stator and rotor cores are made from separate electrical steel sheets insulated from one another. A winding made of insulated wire. A rod winding is placed in the grooves of the rotor core or molten aluminum is poured. Jumper rings short-circuit the rotor winding at the ends (hence the name short-circuited). Unlike a squirrel-cage rotor, a winding made like a stator winding is placed in the slots of a phase-wound rotor. The ends of the winding are brought to slip rings, mounted on a shaft. Brushes slide along the rings, connecting the winding to a starting or control rheostat.
Asynchronous electric motors with a wound rotor are more expensive devices, require qualified maintenance, are less reliable, and therefore are used only in those industries where they cannot be done without them. For this reason, they are not very common, and we will not consider them further.
A current flows through the stator winding connected to a three-phase circuit, creating a rotating magnetic field. The magnetic field lines of the rotating stator field cross the rotor winding bars and induce an electromotive force (EMF) in them. Under the influence of this EMF, current flows in the short-circuited rotor rods. Magnetic fluxes arise around the rods, creating a general magnetic field of the rotor, which, interacting with the rotating magnetic field of the stator, creates a force that forces the rotor to rotate in the direction of rotation of the stator magnetic field.
The rotor rotation frequency is slightly less than the rotation frequency of the magnetic field created by the stator winding. This indicator is characterized by slip S and is for most engines in the range from 2 to 10%.
Most commonly used in industrial installations three-phase asynchronous electric motors, which are produced in the form of unified series. These include the single 4A series with a rated power range from 0.06 to 400 kW, the machines of which are highly reliable, have good performance and meet world standards.
Autonomous asynchronous generators are three-phase machines that convert the mechanical energy of the prime mover into alternating current electrical energy. Their undoubted advantage over other types of generators is the absence of a commutator-brush mechanism and, as a consequence, greater durability and reliability.
Operation of an asynchronous electric motor in generator mode
If an asynchronous motor disconnected from the network is set into rotation from any prime mover, then in accordance with the reversibility principle electric machines When the synchronous rotation speed is reached, a certain EMF is generated at the terminals of the stator winding under the influence of the residual magnetic field. If you now connect a battery of capacitors C to the terminals of the stator winding, then a leading capacitive current will flow in the stator windings, which in this case is magnetizing.
The battery capacity C must exceed a certain critical value C0, depending on the parameters of the autonomous asynchronous generator: only in this case does the generator self-excite and a three-phase symmetrical voltage system is installed on the stator windings. The voltage value ultimately depends on the characteristics of the machine and the capacitance of the capacitors. Thus, an asynchronous squirrel-cage electric motor can be converted into an asynchronous generator.
Standard circuit for connecting an asynchronous electric motor as a generator.
You can select the capacitance so that the rated voltage and power of the asynchronous generator are equal to the voltage and power, respectively, when it operates as an electric motor.
Table 1 shows the capacitances of the capacitors for excitation of asynchronous generators (U=380 V, 750...1500 rpm). Here reactive power Q is determined by the formula:
Q = 0.314 U 2 C 10 -6 ,
where C is the capacitance of the capacitors, μF.
| Generator power, kVA | Idling | |||||
| capacity, µF | reactive power, kvar | cos = 1 | cos = 0.8 | |||
| capacity, µF | reactive power, kvar | capacity, µF | reactive power, kvar | |||
| 2,0 3,5 5,0 7,0 10,0 15,0 |
28 45 60 74 92 120 |
1,27 2,04 2,72 3,36 4,18 5,44 |
36 56 75 98 130 172 |
1,63 2,54 3,40 4,44 5,90 7,80 |
60 100 138 182 245 342 |
2,72 4,53 6,25 8,25 11,1 15,5 |
As can be seen from the above data, the inductive load on the asynchronous generator, which reduces the power factor, causes sharp increase required capacity. To maintain a constant voltage with increasing load, it is necessary to increase the capacitor capacity, that is, connect additional capacitors. This circumstance must be considered as a disadvantage of the asynchronous generator.
The rotation frequency of an asynchronous generator in normal mode must exceed the asynchronous one by a slip value S = 2...10%, and correspond to the synchronous frequency. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the fact that the frequency of the generated voltage may differ from the industrial frequency of 50 Hz, which will lead to unstable operation of frequency-dependent consumers of electricity: electric pumps, washing machines, devices with transformer input.
A decrease in the generated frequency is especially dangerous, since in this case the inductive resistance of the windings of electric motors and transformers decreases, which can cause their increased heating and premature failure.
An ordinary asynchronous squirrel-cage electric motor of appropriate power can be used as an asynchronous generator without any modifications. The power of the electric motor-generator is determined by the power of the connected devices. The most energy-intensive of them are:
- household welding transformers;
- electric saws, electric jointers, grain crushers (power 0.3...3 kW);
- electric furnaces of the "Rossiyanka" and "Dream" types with a power of up to 2 kW;
- electric irons (power 850…1000 W).
I would especially like to dwell on the operation of household welding transformers. Their connection to an autonomous source of electricity is most desirable, because when operating from an industrial network, they create a number of inconveniences for other electricity consumers.
If household welding transformer is designed to work with electrodes with a diameter of 2...3 mm, then its total power is approximately 4...6 kW, the power of the asynchronous generator to power it should be within 5...7 kW. If a household welding transformer allows working with electrodes with a diameter of 4 mm, then in the heaviest mode - “cutting” metal, the total power consumed by it can reach 10...12 kW, respectively, the power of an asynchronous generator should be within 11...13 kW.
As a three-phase bank of capacitors, it is good to use so-called reactive power compensators, designed to improve cosφ in industrial lighting networks. Their typical designation: KM1-0.22-4.5-3U3 or KM2-0.22-9-3U3, which is deciphered as follows. KM - cosine capacitors impregnated with mineral oil, the first number is the size (1 or 2), then the voltage (0.22 kV), power (4.5 or 9 kvar), then the number 3 or 2 means three-phase or single-phase version, U3 (temperate climate of the third category).
In case self-made batteries, you should use capacitors such as MBGO, MBGP, MBGT, K-42-4, etc. for an operating voltage of at least 600 V. Electrolytic capacitors cannot be used.
The option discussed above for connecting a three-phase electric motor as a generator can be considered classic, but not the only one. There are other methods that have proven themselves just as well in practice. For example, when a bank of capacitors is connected to one or two windings of an electric motor generator.
Two-phase mode of an asynchronous generator.
Fig.2 Two-phase mode of an asynchronous generator.
This circuit should be used when there is no need to obtain three-phase voltage. This switching option reduces the working capacity of the capacitors, reduces the load on the primary mechanical engine in idle mode, etc. saves "precious" fuel.
Single-phase asynchronous squirrel-cage electric motors can be used as low-power generators producing alternating single-phase voltage 220 V household use: from washing machines such as "Oka", "Volga", irrigation pumps "Agidel", "BTsN", etc. Their capacitor bank can be connected in parallel to the working winding, or use an existing phase-shifting capacitor connected to the starting winding. The capacity of this capacitor may need to be increased slightly. Its value will be determined by the nature of the load connected to the generator: active loads (electric furnaces, light bulbs, electric soldering irons) require a small capacity, inductive loads (electric motors, televisions, refrigerators) require more.
Fig.3 Low power generator from single-phase asynchronous motor.
Now a few words about the primary mechanical engine, which will drive the generator. As you know, any transformation of energy is associated with its inevitable losses. Their value is determined by the efficiency of the device. Therefore power mechanical engine must exceed the power of the asynchronous generator by 50...100%. For example, with an asynchronous generator power of 5 kW, the power of a mechanical motor should be 7.5...10 kW. Using a transmission mechanism, the speed of the mechanical engine and the generator are matched so that the operating mode of the generator is set at the average speed of the mechanical engine. If necessary, you can briefly increase the power of the generator by increasing the speed of the mechanical engine.
Each autonomous power plant must contain the required minimum attachments: AC voltmeter (with a scale up to 500 V), frequency meter (preferably) and three switches. One switch connects the load to the generator, the other two switch the excitation circuit. The presence of switches in the excitation circuit makes it easier to start a mechanical engine, and also allows you to quickly reduce the temperature of the generator windings; after completion of work, the rotor of the unexcited generator is rotated for some time by the mechanical engine. This procedure extends the active life of the generator windings.
If the generator is used to power equipment that is normally connected to the AC mains (for example, residential lighting, household electrical appliances), then it is necessary to provide a two-phase switch, which will turn off the this equipment from the industrial network. It is necessary to disconnect both wires: “phase” and “zero”.
In conclusion, some general advice.
1. The alternator is a hazardous device. Use 380 V only when absolutely necessary; in all other cases, use 220 V.
2. According to safety requirements, the electric generator must be equipped with grounding.
3. Pay attention to the thermal mode of the generator. He "does not like" idling. The thermal load can be reduced by more carefully selecting the capacitance of the exciting capacitors.
4. Don't go wrong with power electric current produced by the generator. If during work three-phase generator If one phase is used, then its power will be 1/3 of the total power of the generator, if two phases - 2/3 of the total power of the generator.
5. The frequency of the alternating current produced by the generator can be indirectly controlled by the output voltage, which in the “no-load” mode should be 4...6% higher than the industrial value of 220/380 V.
Nowadays, producing your own electricity is not so unusual thing. Electricity networks are intermittent, especially outside large cities. And to avoid problems with this, many resort to using electric generators. In order to purchase or make one, you need to find out about the best electric generators that you can make with your own hands.
What is it
An electric generator is a special device that is designed to convert and accumulate electricity. And it is usually extracted from unusual sources - from gasoline and gas to environmentally friendly ones, such as wind, sun and water. Such a generator can be expensive. Even the most low-power ones can cost from 15,000 rubles.
Therefore, in order to save several tens of thousands, many create them themselves. It’s good that there are now quite a lot of ideas on how to make an electric generator with your own hands.
Operating principle
Electromagnetic induction underlies the operating principle of an electric generator.
An artificial magnetic field is created. A conductor passes through it, creating an impulse. The pulse meanwhile becomes a direct current.
The generator itself has an engine that is capable of generating electricity through burning fuel. a certain type. It can be diesel fuel, gasoline, gas.
At this time, the fuel entering the combustion area produces gas during combustion. And the gas makes the crankshaft rotate. This in turn gives impulse to the driven shaft. The latter provides output energy in certain quantities.
Electric generators basically have two mandatory mechanisms - a rotor and a stator. Their availability does not depend on fuel and power.
The rotor is needed to create that same electromagnetic field. It is based on magnets that are located at the same distance from the core.
The stator does not move. This allows the rotor to move while the stator adjusts the electromagnetic field. Achieved due to the steel blocks in its structure.
Asynchronous
The types of electric generator devices do not end with the division based on fuel use. Also, depending on the type of rotor rotation, generators can be:
- Synchronous - more complex in their design. Voltage fluctuations lead to malfunctions. This affects work and productivity.
- Asynchronous - with an easy operating principle and other technical characteristics.
Magnetic coils on the rotor of a synchronous generator make it difficult for the rotor to move. The rotor in an asynchronous generator is more like a flywheel.
Design features have a great influence on efficiency. Synchronous ones have a loss of up to 11%. For asynchronous, the loss reaches a maximum of 5%. Such indicators make asynchronous devices popular not only in everyday life, but also in production.
Asynchronous generators have other advantages:
- Frequent repairs are not necessary, because the simple housing reliably protects the engine from spent fuel and excess moisture.
- The output rectifier will protect electrical appliances powered by the generator.
- Resistant to voltage surges.
- All parts in the design are quite reliable and durable, so operation without repairs can last more than 15 years.
- Thanks to its resistance to surges and the ability to power devices with ohmic loads, the number of different devices for connection is growing - from computers to welding machines and lamps.
- High efficiency.
What materials are needed
To assemble a small asynchronous generator, the following parts will be useful:
- Engine. The easiest way is to take it from broken electrical appliances, because making it yourself is difficult and time consuming. Motors from washing machines work especially well.
- Stator. You need to take it ready-made, with winding.
- Transformer or rectifier. Useful if the output electricity has different power.
- Electrical wires.
- Insulating tape.
Of course, to make wind and solar power generators with your own hands, you will need more complex circuits and more materials, but if you wish, you can find them and instructions for them.
Pay attention! 
Assembly
The assembly process can be complicated for various reasons. For example, there is no specific skill for a job. There is no experience in creating such devices. There are no necessary parts and spare parts. However, if all this and a great desire are present, then you can try.
But before starting work, you must fulfill several conditions - obtain materials and instructions for making an electric generator. And read them. And also take care of safety precautions.
Before starting work, it makes sense to take care of assembly diagrams and drawings. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the process.
Gas and gasoline electric generators are most often assembled by hand. But both when assembling them, and when assembling others, you need to make preparations and some calculations. For example, it is important to know the power of the required generator.
To determine the rotation speed, the motor must be connected to the network. To determine, you will need a tachometer. The value obtained from the measurements must be added to the compensatory value of 10%. This value helps prevent the engine from overheating.
Pay attention! 
Taking into account the power, you need to select capacitors.
It is important to remember about grounding, because we are dealing with electricity. And this is not only a matter of device wear and tear, but also a safety issue.
The assembly itself is simple - the capacitors are connected to the motor one by one according to the diagram (it can be found on the Internet). That's all you need to create a low power generator.
This option is the most convenient and easiest. However, it is worth paying attention to the following points:
- You need to monitor the engine temperature so that it does not overheat.
- Sometimes the generator will need to be allowed to cool to 40 degrees.
- Efficiency may decrease depending on operating time. This is fine.
- The user will need to independently monitor the condition of the generator and connect measuring instruments to it.
After assembling the mechanical part, you should work on the electrical side. You should start after installing the pulleys connected by a belt.
- The windings on an electric motor are connected according to a star circuit.
- The capacitors connected to the winding must form a triangle.
- The voltage will be removed between the end of the winding and the midpoint. Then the result is a current with a voltage of 220 volts, and between the windings - 380 volts.
Pay attention! 
Experts give a few more useful tips that will help when assembling the generator:
- The electric motor can become very hot. To prevent this from happening, you need to replace the capacitors with ones with a lower capacity.
- Homemade electric generators usually require capacitors with a voltage of 400 volts or more. For proper operation One is enough.
- The network requires a three-phase transformer if all phases of the motor are needed to power the house.
Most likely, even made as in beautiful photos, homemade electric generator, will not be able to compete with purchased models.
However, if you perceive it as an additional, backup source of electricity, then it is quite possible to make and use it. Moreover, as practice shows, making a generator yourself is not so difficult. You just need to put in the effort and everything will work out.
DIY photo of electric generators
In this article you will learn how to make a 220 V generator with your own hands using a 2-stroke engine. This generator can be used for various purposes, at home for lighting and connecting small loads, outdoors, for lighting a tent, or find other applications. It is not large in size, and the parts used are not very scarce.
We collect the necessary components and tools
This unit consists of the following parts:
The tools we will need are:
- Drill or screwdriver + drill bits and Phillips bit for self-tapping screws;
- Circular saw or jigsaw (for hobbyists) manual labor a hacksaw will do);
- Voltmeter;
- Screwdrivers, pliers, paint knife or scissors;
- Square, tape measure.
Operating principle of a dynamo generator
The basis of our generator is a DC motor, which is capable of operating in generator mode by converting mechanical energy into electrical energy through the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction. The rotation of the armature in the magnetic field of the primary winding of a DC motor is ensured by the motor from the brush cutter. When a DC motor rotates in generator mode, an alternating EMF is generated, which is converted into a DC voltage through the brush commutator.
Let's start assembling the unit
Stage one: fix the motor from the brush cutter
To begin with, we take a piece of board and pre-cut it to the size of our bed. It is advisable to take weighty material so that our equipment has a strong and reliable base.
We mark the position of the engine from the brush cutter. Using a paper template, we mark the holes exactly, drilling them with a drill or screwdriver.
Let's try both engines on the bed. We disconnect the fuel tank and attach the engine from the brush cutter to the seats.
Stage two: attaching the DC motor
Mark the position of the engine. The distance from both motor shafts should be a few centimeters to avoid friction between them.
We center the shafts of our engines. The easiest way to correct the discrepancy between the centers is to use some spacers, or simply adjust the seat to wooden bed. This can be done with an ordinary chisel. The less play between the shafts, the less vibration from the unit and wear of the moving part.
We mark the pipes. Most often, engine shafts differ in diameter. This can also be corrected if PVC hoses of different diameters are used as connecting pipes. Their flexibility will help smooth out the slightest inaccuracy in the alignment of the shafts. In our case, the author used two hoses of different diameters, inserting one into the other.
Having cut off the pipes to the length we need, we attach three clamps on both sides, pressing them with a screwdriver.
We fix the DC motor with self-tapping screws, having previously laid them with washers. We connect the shafts by hand and tighten the clamps with a screwdriver.
Now you can attach the fuel tank. It is not difficult to cope with this task using a long self-tapping screw and a cut cap from a dowel-nail. Don't forget to connect the fuel pipes.
Having started the fuel engine with the starter, we measure the output voltage with a voltmeter. Using a screwdriver, we adjust the fuel supply and the number of revolutions, on which the voltage depends. Based on the inverter rating, we set the output voltage with a small margin.
Stage three: connect the inverter
We fix the pre-stripped ends of the cables from the DC motor to the inverter terminals. The power indicator will immediately show the activity of the device.
With a simple test (a light bulb with a piece of cable and a plug at the end) we check the operation of our miracle generator.
To connect the electric motor to the inverter we use terminals.
Stage four: engine shutdown button
Since we have a driving motor that creates mechanical rotation, it needs a switch. The shutdown button comes with the device, so you just need to find a convenient place for it.
Stage five: making the casing-frame
We make a protective frame from polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 25-32mm, making holes in the frame with a feather drill.
At the corners we connect it using polypropylene fittings.
If there is no plumbing welding machine, the structure can be joined using specialized glue for PP pipes.
This frame will also help in carrying the device.
Well, to eliminate noise from vibration of our device, you can back side attach 4 thrust bearings to the frame, making them as shown in the photo, from pieces of an old bicycle inner tube.
Stage six: starting battery
To avoid having to pull the fuel engine starter once again, the author of the video used a lithium polymer battery (LiPo) to briefly start the DC motor. This comparative new device can indeed be powerful and withstand a large number of duty cycles with minimal loss of capacitive power. In this way, the fuel engine is started electrically, while its starter remains as a backup option.
We connect the outgoing contacts of the battery to the inverter terminals through the starting toggle switch, tying the cable of wires with nylon ties. The charging socket can be located on the side to make it convenient to connect it for charging.
We also attach the fuel engine shutdown button.
Stage seven: test run of the unit
After checking all contact groups and fastenings of prefabricated elements, we start the unit. The engine start and stop buttons must work flawlessly. It is worth noting that the starting battery is only used for a few seconds and then turns off.
For long and safe work DC motor and inverter do not require any special conditions, except perhaps protection from moisture and voltage surges.
As for the lithium-polymer battery, it is unacceptable to deeply discharge it (less than 3.3 V) and in no case allow it to overheat above 60 degrees Celsius. Such devices are also charged using specialized devices that do not allow overcharging, and before using in the cold, be sure to warm them up at room temperature.
Fuel engines also require compliance with operating rules: correct selection combustible mixture, cleaning air and fuel filters, preventing engine overheating, etc. In an enclosed area, the exhaust gases from such an engine must be ventilated.
As for the rest, such equipment, assembled with your own hands, can last for a long time, supplying precious electricity in the country, fishing, or just on vacation outside the city!