How to make a circular saw with your own hands. Wood planing machine: diagram. Making a jointer on a wooden frame Homemade circular and jointer

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For any work to be successful, you must have good equipment and tools. The same statement applies to amateurs (or professionals) “tinkering” with wood. Masters in making furniture or other wooden products They always try to acquire various tools and devices that can help them in their work.

For example, a jointer. This device significantly increases the productivity and quality of woodworking. But not all fans can purchase it, because its price is quite high. How to get out of this difficult situation? There is a solution, and it’s quite simple - it’s to make a tabletop jointer with your own hands. And the manufacturing process itself will be discussed in the article.

Why do you need a jointer?

A woodworking workshop can contain the most different machines, but the most commonly used (of course, besides the circular saw) are jointer and surface planer devices. These two types of units are slightly similar in their function, but differ in the method of use.

If you need to make a wooden blank in the form of a board, beam or shield, then it is better to use a thickness planer. Such a device, the main tool of which is the same knife, is capable of cutting the source material into two parallel parts. In this case, both of them will be adjusted to certain sizes.

Thicknessing machines are available in both single-sided and double-sided types. In the first case, only one side of the workpiece is processed in one pass. A double-sided thickness planer is more productive. Here the output is an almost finished part.

Thicknessing machines have a shaft located above the tabletop. Moreover, the latter is made massive in order to smooth out large vibrations. In addition, the mechanism is equipped with a special casing, which is designed to dampen noise.

U jointer a little different task. This device is used to create a smooth surface on the workpiece without significant roughness. This machine, like the previous version, is equipped with a shaft with knives, only in the jointer it is located under the table top.

The workpiece is fed to work surface on the one hand, the exit from the opposite is already partially processed. This way, layer by layer, the desired evenness is achieved. After processing on a jointer, the part can be fed to a surface planer.

Basic Concepts

Such equipment will have numerous rotating parts. From this we can conclude that making such a machine with your own hands will not be so easy. Therefore, when starting to manufacture it, you need to calculate your strength. If you already have some similar experience, then you will cope with the task.
It’s worth noting right away that making a jointing machine entirely from parts self-made you won't succeed. Of course, perhaps in your “bins” there is a large assortment various devices, but this rarely happens. First of all, this concerns the shaft with knives and bearings. They will most likely have to be purchased or even ordered. But if everything you need is available, then you can safely start designing.

Some parts for the jointer: knife shaft, knife bearings, will have to be purchased or ordered

First of all, it’s worth understanding what kind of “package” you want to receive. There may be several options:

just a jointer. It will only perform one function;
set of jointer and circular saw. In this case, the functionality of the machine is doubled;
equipment capable of performing the role of a jointer, a circular saw, a grinding device, a sharpening and drilling machine. Such a device will be very useful for your workshop, but it will be difficult to do it yourself.

The most optimal and easiest option is to make a jointer and a circular saw on the same bed. Plus, both tools will rotate from the same electric motor. This feature will greatly facilitate our task.

Let's look at the main components of our future tabletop jointing machine. It will include:

Bed. This structure will support the entire machine and the equipment installed on it. To make it, it is best to use durable channels with a wall thickness of 8-10 millimeters. The bed can be made either collapsible or permanent. In the first case, all its components will be connected using bolts and nuts. If you do not need a portable machine, then the channels can be secured together by welding. This option will be more reliable. You can do without a bed if its role is played by a desktop;
Work tool. This is one of the most important components of the machine. The jointer knives and the saw itself - it is with their help that you will saw and process the boards. The knives are firmly attached to the shaft. They must be made of reliable and strong steel. Circular saw with pobedit tips. Such a tool will last you much longer;
The rotor is where all the tools will be attached. Without this part it is impossible to make a single machine, planer or circular saw. Finding a suitable rotor can be quite difficult, so it is better to order it from a professional turner, having previously provided it with drawings;
Desktop. For a properly functioning machine, you need three surfaces. One will serve as a workbench for a circular saw, and the other two for a jointer. The thickness of the material for the working surface must be at least five millimeters. For these purposes, multilayer plywood or metal sheets. In this case, it is advisable to make a slight difference in height for surfaces intended for jointing. The side along which the workpiece will be fed should be a couple of millimeters lower than the side to which the already processed side will go. This difference will make work easier and significantly reduce vibration.

Electric drive of the jointer

And of course, don’t forget about the drive. All mechanisms must rotate. This means that the drive will be the “heart” of the machine. Here are some recommendations for this design element:
- First of all, prepare the electric motor.

Electric motor for jointer

It is best to use a three-phase unit for these purposes. Of course, in this case you may have to redo the electrical network in your workshop, but it will be worth it. Three-phase electric motors operating at a voltage of 380 V are capable of developing greater power. In addition, the torque of such devices is suitable for our purposes. The minimum power value should be 3 kW, but the maximum is at your discretion;

To transmit torque from the electric motor to the working shaft, it must be done using belts. A two-strand wedge-shaped shape is best suited for these purposes. Such belts are more reliable;
the electric motor itself can be mounted cantilever, directly inside the machine frame. This method will help solve the problem associated with belt tension. If you want to strengthen the engine more firmly, then you need to add a slide to the design, with the help of which adjustments will be made;
to increase the shaft rotation speed, it is worth using two pulleys. One, larger in diameter, is installed on the electric motor. A pulley with a smaller cross-section is mounted on the shaft.

Be very careful about providing power to the machine. Three-phase current is supplied through a four-core cable. In this case, reliable grounding must be organized. These requirements will help avoid accidents when working on the machine.

Drawing. The main stages of creating a jointer

Tabletop jointer - drawing

Tabletop jointing machine - drawing (part 2)

A jointing machine, its simplest version without additional functions, can be made quite easily with your own hands. The general progress of work in this case will look like this:

first prepare all the necessary parts, tools and materials;
We create a drawing of the future machine. Without this “document” you cannot start work. With the help of the drawing you can calculate all the nuances and prepare for them. In addition, having such a plan will greatly facilitate and simplify the task;
Next, we transfer all the dimensions of future parts to the workpiece and manufacture them;
A very important detail is the location for installing the rotor bearings. It is made from several pieces.

When fastening, glue and clamp are used. The recess should ideally fit the dimensions of the bearing;

Next, we install the electric motor. To do this, as noted above, you can use a cantilever mount, or install the unit on a skid;
The next step will be to assemble the rotor with the bearing and install them in place. At the same time, a connection is made to the electric motor using a belt drive. Check that the rotor rotates freely in the bearing;
Next, the work surface is assembled and installed. It will consist of two parts - the serving and the receiving. In this case, the second should be a couple of millimeters higher than the first. The working surface can be made of multi-layer plywood, and for greater strength and increased service life it can be covered with sheet iron.

After creating the system for turning the electric motor on and off, the machine is ready for use. But in order for your new tool to bring only benefit and joy to work, it is worth using it correctly and safely.

A rotary machine, like any mechanism, needs correct operation. If you do not follow certain rules, the device can quickly fail. And in the worst case, you yourself will get injured. Therefore, when using, you should follow the recommendations from specialists:

In order for the machine to operate reliably, it is necessary to periodically carry out preventive maintenance. Such a complex includes next events– checking the reliability of the location of the knives on the shaft, injecting bearings, checking the electric motor, inspecting the belt drive to ensure its tension is sufficient, checking all contacts, and so on;
Rotating parts are always dangerous. And if they are also equipped with sharp blades, then the risk of getting herbs is very high. To increase operational safety, it is better to cover the shaft with knives with a casing. It will open when a wooden piece is removed, and close again when idle;
When working on the machine, follow all safety precautions. This is especially true for the quality of workplace lighting. Hang a powerful lamp above the machine, and your workshop itself should be bright. Also pay attention to the quality of the floor. If it is too slippery, it is better to install a wooden platform or a rubber mat;
Do not use excessive force when planing or cutting material. Excessive force will not speed up the work, but will only spoil the workpiece or lead to breakdowns of the machine itself;
do not hesitate to invite an assistant when processing long workpieces. This way the work will be done faster, better and safer for your health.

Of course, it is worth keeping your desktop clean. After finishing work, with the machine turned off and de-energized, clean the device from chips. The same must be done periodically to perform large volumes. Turn off the machine and remove any accumulated chips from all mechanisms and surfaces. Cleanliness will make your work easier and help keep the unit operating for a longer period of time.

The video will discuss in detail one of the options for a homemade jointing machine.

Video: homemade jointer

Planing and sawing are essential stages of wood processing. They are carried out on special equipment. In the recent past combined machines, performing both operations, were common in production. But with increasing productivity, such devices no longer meet market requirements. Therefore, circular mechanisms with a jointer are used mainly by small handicraft workshops and amateurs.

Purpose

The machine combines the capabilities of a circular saw and a jointer. The circular saw is used for sawing large volumes of timber, boards, laminate, plywood, drywall, and soft alloy products. Sawing is carried out quickly, accurately and precisely to size, which cannot be achieved using hand tools.

The jointer is designed to remove the top, rough layer of material and make the workpiece smooth. Only wood is processed. There are double-sided models that simultaneously process two planes. The operations performed on circular and jointing machines are carried out one after another, so it is logical to combine them into a single device.

Design

A circular saw is a table-frame on which a vertical saw wheel, a guide, and hinges for sawing at an angle are placed.

The base of the jointer is also a table-frame into which the knife shaft is flush built. The table is made of two parts, the position of which is adjusted relative to the knife shaft. The engine of both devices is located below, under the tabletop.

A combined machine is a tabletop on which a saw blade and a knife shaft are installed. Both mechanisms operate from a single engine, the movement is transmitted by a belt drive. On such models, jointing can only be done on one side.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of combining a jointer into one device with a circular saw:

versatility: one device provides ample opportunities processing of workpieces;
compactness: individual mechanisms take up quite a lot of space, but here double space savings are achieved while maintaining functionality;
material benefit: one device is cheaper than two;
Convenience and ease of use: it can easily be converted from a jointer to a circular saw and back. Factory models are equipped with convenient fastenings for parts, protective boxes that protect the worker from injury, as well as chip ejectors.
productivity: high productivity is more needed in mini-workshops than in household. If you purchase a machine with a power of 2.5 - 3 kilowatts, it will cope with any tasks in the shortest possible time and is suitable for a small workshop. A home workshop does not require bulky and power-hungry equipment - 1 kilowatt of power is enough;
a large selection of models: the range on the market from tabletop to units with several 12-kilowatt motors operating from a three-phase network;
neatness: factory models are equipped with a system for collecting sawdust using a special vacuum cleaner.

Disadvantages of combined machines:

only electric motor: if the motor burns out while sawing, the work will stop. Therefore, you should not overload the station wagon;
Risk of injury: working on any machine is dangerous, but combined devices often insufficiently equipped with protective devices covering one or another working part.

Despite many advantages, large industries use only specialized equipment. In flow conditions, it is more efficient to work on the principle of one operation - one machine - one worker. That's why combined models belong to the category of amateur equipment.

Homemade jointing machine with a circular saw

To optimize the design, homemade machines are equipped with one working shaft, from which the drive goes to the saw and knife shaft. This makes it easier to place all the necessary mechanisms.

The support frame can be welded from a corner or the base can be adapted from a foot sewing machine. In this case, the width of the joint will be equal to the width of the tabletop. The additions to the frame are welded from the channel (cross members, drawers).

It is advisable to use a 3-blade rotor. This is a very important part that it is advisable to order from a professional. Double-sided knives and a sawing circle are put on it. It is better to immediately take discs with carbide teeth. A disc with a diameter of 30 cm is suitable, which makes a cutting depth of up to 8 cm. The jointer removes up to 2 millimeters of wood at a time in a layer up to 26 cm wide.

The machine is additionally equipped with a slide - a movable mechanism that moves along the edge of the tabletop of the circular saw and helps to process the edges of beveled workpieces.

The knife shaft is installed in the middle of the tabletop on bearings attached with bolts. The drive goes to the shaft from the left. The shaft neck with a diameter of 32 millimeters is located along right hand from the workplace.

You can install a grinding wheel, cutter or circular disk on the shaft journal. In this case, the tool is attached to the shaft with a nut with a right-hand thread! This is an important detail!

The tabletop is made up of three parts. Material: 5 mm steel sheet. Two parts of the same size are adjacent to the knife shaft: the receiving and output tables. You can additionally think about a mechanism for adjusting their position relative to the shaft, for example, using screws or spacers.

The tabletop level of the circular saw is set mechanically. There is also a device for setting the angle; it is made on the basis of an analogue for a hacksaw. If necessary, it can be removed from the tabletop; it is secured with brackets to the edges of the tabletop on the circular side.

Here a guide ruler made of metal corner No. 5. The width of the part corresponds to the gap between the circle of the circular and the guide. Thanks to the ruler, there is no need to mark the cutting line along the entire length of the workpiece.

A double-ribbed V-belt transmission goes from the electric motor to the rotor. It is recommended not to skimp on the engine and take a more powerful one 3 kilowatts, 1.5 thousand revolutions, three-phase. It is hung under the frame on a hinged subframe. Due to the transmission, the rotor rotation frequency can be increased. The diameter of the drive pulley is 1.5 times larger than the diameter of the working shaft. Therefore, the working bodies rotate at speeds of up to 2.25 thousand revolutions. Electricity is supplied to the grounded motor via a four-wire wire. If there is an overload or short circuit, the machine immediately stops powering.

Machines assembled according to the proposed scheme have been operating successfully for several years. To extend their service life, they should be thoroughly cleaned of chips and dust after each use, and the power supply should be turned off. Periodically lubricate bearings, replace or sharpen saw blades in a timely manner. Drive belts and electrical wiring may also be damaged.

It is necessary to ensure a free approach from all sides, bright lighting. All non-working elements are covered with protective covers to avoid injury.

Homemade circular jointer and useful tips for working in videos:

How do circular table with your own hands?

General requirements for a table for circular saw
Required material and table assembly for manual circular saw
Some useful little things you need to know

At the time of buying circular saw The future master does not always imagine the amount of work that he will have to do with this equipment. This is one side of the problem. On the other hand, the master realizes that it is better for him to purchase immediately circular saw, but it is very difficult to choose a good table that would meet all the requirements.

The circular table allows do clearer and smoother cut.

This is how a thought is born do DIY table for a hand-held circular saw. In this area, real craftsmen have no restrictions.

General requirements for a table for circular saw

Tenoning device on a circular table.

A table for a working saw must meet several main requirements:

In addition to these requirements, there are several necessary criteria that must be taken into account when developing a machine for a circular saw.

Safety and reliability of saw fastening.
Fencing for the saw blade, which very often remains unfulfilled.
Open access to the on and off button.

The additional set of functions of the devices depends on the requirements of the master himself and his qualifications. This set includes accessories that:

help to make an even longitudinal cut;
the same high-quality cross-cut.

Design circular saw.

The standard table that can be purchased with a circular saw is usually made of stainless steel. The sawing device itself is mounted upside down; an incision or slot is made approximately in the middle to place the saw blade itself into it. Its width must correspond to the width used saw blades. This gap should not be allowed to be too wide. In this case, chips and other working debris will often clog the device, rendering it inoperable.

Concerning technical parameters saw that will be used for bench sawing, its engine power may be greater than that of a conventional hand saw. But still do not exceed 1200 W; experts consider such a risk unjustified. After all, what more powerful saw, the more durable and reliable the table is needed.

Industrial machines are made, as already mentioned, exclusively from metal, but their support is very often filled with cement for more reliable fastening of the device.

Necessary material and table assembly for manual circular saws

Cut with a circular saw.

To make a table, you can take the following materials:

plywood 20-50 mm thick;
plexiglass;
fiberglass slabs.

Read also

When choosing saws in a store, the buyer often pays attention to the immersion depth of the device, which means the maximum thickness of the material being processed. It must be assumed that the use hand saw For purposes other than intended, approximately 1 cm of sawing thickness will be taken away.

Table parameters largely depend on the surfaces being processed.

Examination circular saw.

If the products are expected to be bulky, for example, more than 2.5 m long, then the table will have to be strengthened with additional legs.

The circular table has several features in its assembly. The blank for the table top must be described in a separate paragraph.

So, the legs for the tabletop are made from the same plywood, but of greater thickness. To secure it, clamps are made along the table or crosswise. This will allow the table to be more rigid. The stability will be affected by the correctly selected length of the legs and installation location.

A simple homemade (DIY) circular saw with a jointer. Part 1.

A circular saw- jointer made with my own hands The new thing I’m doing now is not ready yet, cont.

Homemade circular saw

My first homemade machine Homemade products for the carpenter.

The table may have various sizes, the wizard determines these parameters independently. For example:

cover 70x80 cm;
height 110 cm.

Table cover: how many useful things can it have?

Application diagram circular saw.

For the saw itself, depending on the selected thickness of the table top, a cut is made with a depth of about 1 cm. The cut is made to secure the working table of the device itself around the perimeter. In order to do, using a ruler, a simple pencil and the handsaw itself, mark the place where the device will be located.

There are several options for attaching the saw to the table. It all depends on what goal is set. If a person wants the saw to be freely dismantled if necessary, the mount must allow this, but at the same time be reliable.

To do this, limit bars with grooves are installed around the marked perimeter of the working surface of the saw, without forming a closed frame. This secures the hand saw. But this installation is applicable for small volumes of work and low disk speeds.

A more reliable fastening looks similar, but with this type of fastening the beams are smaller: there are not 4 of them, but 6 or 8, each is fixed near a specific section of the frame, and if necessary, the master will have to unscrew the bolts near each such beam. Some fasten circular without wooden beams, screwing it directly to the table, making holes in the frame.

Turning the table cover over, you can see a slot with a saw blade sticking out of it. During installation, the disc platform locking function is used.

Can do on the sawing table there is a slot for a removable riving knife, which will be attached with a clamp next to the saw on the bottom side.

Guides for longitudinal and transverse cuts

The table must have guides; aluminum construction U-shaped slats are used for their manufacture. With the open edge they cling to the table. Subsequently, auxiliary fastening parts will move along them, allowing more precise cuts to be made.

The first to be built-in is a guide running along the saw. The parallel guide rails will run along the edges of the table, perpendicular to the saw itself. The guides themselves are also made of plywood.

How to make cross cuts?

Read also

Miter box for circular saw.

To make cross cuts, a plank is most often used, which is similar to small table. It is upside down, has 2 parallel bases and a slot through which the saw blade can pass. If all angles have been observed, the cut will be strictly perpendicular.

The solution for the transverse sawing direction can be one more interesting option. The bars are attached to the plywood (slightly larger than the table) from the bottom side. They should be positioned clearly across the width of the table. From the top of the board, 2 parallel plates are attached, which are higher saw blade and have slots for its passage. The result is the same, but this solution is easier to implement.

In addition, the table top can be equipped with rulers along both guides.

Some useful little things to know

Enable circular hand saw can be done in several ways.

The simplest and incorrect one: fix the power lock button, connect it directly to the network, and disconnect it if necessary. This is contraindicated for 2 reasons:

unsafe for the life and health of the master;
threatens the saw engine with combustion.

Method 2 is perhaps the most common. Everything is fixed, but the saw is not connected to the mains, but to an adapter with a shutdown button.

The 3rd method is the most correct, but it may deprive the owner of the device of its warranty. It is necessary to display a plastic blank for the on and off buttons on the table panel. Replace the wire with the plug with a wire that will be directly connected to these buttons. Safe for both the master and the saw.

Assembly of the front part of the machine.

In fact, it is not at all necessary that the saw be attached directly to the bottom of the table. Many ways have been invented in which the circular can be moved on top using additional devices. So, if the sole circular saw on one side, provide it with a special platform; by making a bar in advance from an aluminum rectangular pipe about 1 cm high and fixing it on the surface to be sawed strictly parallel to the cut, you can make an accurate cut. This becomes possible due to the fact that the saw moves along the bar using a platform without changing the distance to the edge of the cut.

There is a type of circular plunge-cut saws. They have a controlled device that holds the saw above the workpiece and is lowered if necessary.

Don't forget what you can buy stationary table along with the saw.

In this section I would like to say a few words about the saw blades themselves. They are:

for longitudinal sawing;
for cross cutting;
universal.

The first 2 types of discs differ in the method of sharpening. To work with cross section a so-called negative sharpening angle is used.

When the master does not know what exactly he will be sawing, or the range of products requires sawing in different directions, it is recommended to use universal discs. This will prevent the need to frequently change blades on your saws. The teeth of such discs are made of excellent material.

It is difficult to cope with repairs, construction or gardening work without a circular saw. Alas, work manual device It’s not always comfortable, and buying an expensive machine is impossible for obvious reasons.

Talented craftsmen are able to solve this problem by making a homemade circular machine with their own hands. What tools and materials are needed for this? What to consider before starting work? How to extend the service life of the received product? First things first.

Requirements for a homemade circular saw

Contrary to misconception, to make the device you will need ordinary lumber and tools. But before thinking through the design, you need to think about the bed - the element on which the machine will be installed.

The main requirements for it are reliability and stability. Typically welded steel is used for manufacturing processes. metal structure, but for household needs she won't go. Since a tabletop circular saw for wood will not cut the most voluminous materials, it will not require the most powerful engine, and the frame can be made of wood. There is no need for additional fixation (mounting in concrete), and possible vibration during operation will be reduced to a minimum.

The second requirement is selection optimal power sawing equipment.

Otherwise, the installation will not be justified, and a lot of electricity will be required to operate the machine.

Also, when developing a circular machine project, it is necessary to take into account the following equipment parameters:

It is better to place the buttons with outside circular saw or provide an opening tabletop for them.

Now - a few words about the main design elements for small household work.

Machine components

In addition to the bed, important element is the power unit. Some experts advise installing factory settings hand saws, however, their power is not always comparable to that of real machines. In addition, you can make a mistake with the disk size. Therefore, it is better to assemble the power unit from two parts - the engine and the shaft for the disk.

An arbitrary asynchronous type power plant operating from a 220 V network is suitable as the first one. Its power does not exceed 1200 W, and the rotation speed is up to 4-4.5 thousand rpm. It is better to take standard pulleys for mounting the cutting element on the shaft, which have a tension system for reliable fixation and transmission of torque.

You will also need to do:

support bar (a workpiece length limiter that can move relative to the plane of the saw element; makes it possible for the user to adjust the width);
table top;
legs (requires timber with a section of 30x30 or 40x40 mm).

When selecting the height of the table legs, the user's height is taken into account. The tabletop parameters are selected in the same way.

If they are sawing on a circular saw long blanks, more legs will be needed, otherwise the structure will begin to vibrate.

Suitable tabletop material is thick plywood of at least 50 mm, plexiglass or fiberglass. Chipboard is not recommended - it is not very reliable and can crumble during operation.

Tools and materials

In order to summarize what has been said above, a complete list of required materials is provided below:

sheet of plywood/plexiglass/textolite;
boards 50x100 mm;
wooden bars;
steel corner for guides (preferably);
a pair of clamps;
hand circular saw.

For manufacturing, engines from washing machines, angle grinders, drills. However, their service life may be nearing the end, so they will not be suitable for a stable functioning machine.

An old one can serve as a tabletop kitchen table, but it’s better to assemble the frame with your own hands.

Before starting work, check that you have the following tools:

screwdriver or drill;
hacksaw/jigsaw;
tape measure and pencil.

Now it's time to start producing the machine

Stages of work

Basic design features we have considered necessary tool stocked up, it’s time to get down to business and understand how to make a circular saw with your own hands so that it becomes a reliable assistant in any construction matters.

Making a countertop

Marking and cutting out the table top. Based on the dimensions of the parts that will be processed on the machine, a sheet of plywood is cut out with a jigsaw. After this, it is rubbed down with sandpaper. On the underside of the tabletop, a place is marked for the slot of the circular disk. The dimensions of the sole of the unit are also measured by applying it from the outside; To do this, remove the blade from the saw and trace the required part, thus determining the seat.

Planting bars are chosen to a depth of approximately 10 mm (depending on the size of the disk). Then the saw is tried on; if there is not enough space, the hole is deepened.

Installation of slats. It is better to place transverse and longitudinal slats on the wrong side of the tabletop. The planks themselves, in the amount of 4 pieces (a pair of each) are made of timber.

For transverse ones, the length should be 7-8 cm less than the width of the tabletop on each side.

The slats are attached to self-tapping screws, for which nests are pre-made. The fastener is fixed so that its head does not protrude above the tabletop.

Check that each side of the surface extends 7-8 cm beyond the edges of the resulting frame.

Final fixation of elements. First, the transverse ribs are attached. The edges of the slats are lubricated with wood glue for maximum strength. Next, the structure is fixed with clamps and self-tapping screws are screwed in. When the glue is completely dry, the same is done with the longitudinal slats. Then the parts of the frame are tightened together with two fasteners on each side. The clamps are removed.

Making legs

After selecting the bars, the following actions are performed:

Marking and cutting out the workpiece. The height of the legs (length of the timber) should be such that it is convenient to work. Typically the tabletop is located at hip level; this must be taken into account.

Adjusting the angle of inclination of the supports. At the bottom of each support, a portion of the material must be planed so that the leg is positioned at an angle. The base area should be less area tops (joints with the tabletop).

Fixation of legs. It is recommended to use steel corners, installed by surprise, to give the structure additional rigidity and stability. The fasteners are bolts with washers; they are fixed with the head facing outward so that you do not get injured while working on them.

Screed supports. Another operation to give greater stability. In pairs, fasten the legs diagonally on each side of the frame.

This is how it is basically in a simple way You can make a high-quality circular saw for wood with your own hands in little time and money.

Useful video

For a more complete understanding of the entire manufacturing process, take a look interesting video on this topic.

Safe work on the table saw

Homemade cutting or sawing equipment requires a special approach to work. The following safety precautions will help you avoid injury.

Sawing workpieces with knots, cuttings, or icing is undesirable, and cutting with metal inclusions is prohibited.
When sawing wood longer than 2 m, use stands or support frames. To receive the sawn material, you will need the help of one person from the opposite side.
The workpiece is fed smoothly, without pressure or sudden movements. Otherwise, the disc may break or get stuck in the wood.
You cannot push the remaining part of the small-sized material with your finger - there are special pushers for this.
Cleaning the work surface is done with brushes, but not with your hands.
It is mandatory to use glasses, long sleeves, and, if necessary, a respirator.
The saw blade can only be replaced when the machine is switched off.
Regularly remove from working area shavings, sawdust or other waste.
Monitor the condition of the teeth of the working element. If they are misaligned, the disc should be changed or the teeth sharpened. Otherwise, the gap under the disk may increase, and the operation of the equipment will again become dangerous.

Even a novice craftsman can cope with the manufacture of a homemade circular saw for wood, if he thinks ahead important points future design. During the production of the unit, ensure compliance with the dimensions, reliability of fastenings, and stability of the elements. In order for the equipment to serve for a long time, you should be guided by the operating requirements for manual circular saws. The above recommendations will help extend the life of the installation.

Planing equipment is an essential component of a complete woodworking process. Factory-made products are quite expensive, so a homemade jointing machine is quite suitable for home needs.

The purpose of this tool is to longitudinally level a workpiece made of wood or chipboard (painted or glue-containing materials can dull the cutting elements of the equipment). After planing on a jointer, the processed side of the workpiece becomes smooth and even, which is necessary for subsequent calibration on planer or milling.

Industrial options are distinguished by their dimensions and significant weight, which provides suppression of vibration arising from rapidly rotating machine parts (up to 12,000 rpm). The total length of the working surface of such equipment is 2–2.5 m. The width of the table, which determines the maximum width of the workpiece being processed, is in the range of 400–600 mm.

Simpler jointing machines, which you can make yourself at home, have less weight, size and, accordingly, shaft rotation speed (no more than 6000 rpm). The total length of tabletops on such equipment is 1–1.5 m with a width of 200–300 mm.

Main components of a jointer

Bed. A massive element that provides structural rigidity, chip removal, and placement of the electric drive.
Work tables (server and receiver).
Stop ruler. For planing at an angle.
Shaft with cutting elements (knives).
Electric drive. Provides shaft rotation through a belt drive and pulleys.
Rack or fan type protective mechanism.

Main components of a jointer

Additionally, your jointer can be equipped with a workpiece feed mechanism and an aspiration chip removal system.

Making your own jointer

Before starting any activities to make a machine with your own hands, you will need three things: a project, materials and tools. They are all interconnected, since the project directly depends on what materials are available and what tools are available. If not welding machine and skills to work with it, there is no point in considering a project that involves a welded structure.

The metal structure can also be assembled using bolted connections. This option will have some positive qualities: a bolt-on jointer can be disassembled without much effort if necessary.

The most convenient option for a carpenter is wooden structure, but it is inferior to metal in rigidity and in the service life of some machine elements. In addition, certain nodes cannot be made from wood.

Some components will have to be purchased or ordered. These are parts such as:

shaft with knives, fixing wedges, a set of bearings, yokes;
electric motor;
pulleys;
belt;
starting device.

To draw up a project, you need to decide what functions the device will perform. The following options are possible:

Jointer. A device whose purpose is to plan a part on one side without calibration.
A two-operation machine that also performs the function of a jointer.
Multi-operational machine. Such devices can be used for sawing, planing, drilling grooves and milling, like a thickness planer.

The jointer is the easiest to manufacture, requiring less tools, material and skills.

Manufacturing of the bed

The main element of the jointing machine, it will contain work tables, a shaft with knives and a stop ruler. A drive will be installed in the frame body, and chip removal will also be implemented. To make the structure rigid, you will need appropriate material.

for the upper part on which the countertops are located, a height of 100 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm is suitable;
the legs and lower platform can be made from a metal corner (50 mm);
The structure is fastened together by welding or bolting.

Machine bed assembly diagram

Shaft with knives

This unit must be purchased assembled. The kit should include:

knives;
bearings with housings (yoke);
wedges with which the knives are fixed.

The quality of the material and the balancing of such elements made in the factory are much higher than homemade ones.

This unit can be ordered from a turner, providing him with drawings and specifying the details. It’s good if the turner works at an enterprise and has access to balancing equipment.

Desktops

Industrial jointers are equipped with massive cast tabletops with stiffening ribs to prevent deformation during operation. This is unattainable when making it yourself. Therefore, as optimal solution for arranging a planer platform it is better to use sheet material. Ideally, this should be a flat metal plate 10 mm thick, or, in the worst case scenario, a sheet of plywood.

The plywood must be of sufficient thickness (minimum 10 mm), in addition, you need to pay attention to the quality of the surface - the plane must be flat. It is advisable to use sanded waterproof plywood, without small tubercles or fallen knots. To increase the service life of a plywood tabletop, you can attach a sheet of galvanized metal to its working surface with your own hands.

The serving table is made 2 times longer than the receiving table. This makes it easier to level the workpiece during jointing.

Electric motor

The main parameters that need to be taken into account when choosing an electric drive for your jointer:

power;
number of revolutions;
operating voltage of the power supply network (220, 380 V).

The longer and larger the diameter of the cutting tool, the more powerful the motor will be needed. You can use a low-power drive, compensating for the lack of power with pulleys, but in this case it will not be possible to achieve the speed necessary for clean processing.

As an example, consider a shaft with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 300 mm. For stable, long-term operation at speeds of about 6000 per minute, you will need a drive with a power of at least 3 kW. If you change the length in the input data, reducing it to 200 mm, you can use a motor with a minimum power of 2 kW.

As for engine speeds: it is more rational to use a drive that has at least 3000 rpm. Otherwise, to obtain sufficient revolutions cutting tool you will have to use pulleys.

The operating voltage of the drive depends on the voltage electrical network In workshop. An engine that runs on 380 V will be more powerful and more reliable than an engine with the same rated power, but designed to operate on a 220 V network. But in a home workshop, 380 V is a rarity, and the connection costs so much that these funds can buy an inexpensive factory jointer.

It should be remembered that this is a homemade jointer for household use, and it does not need to be mercilessly loaded, planing the entire width of the knives at 5 mm per pass. Not every industrial unit (especially a modern one) can withstand such loads.

The shaft with cutting elements is attached to the top of the frame in the middle; the exact location depends on the size of the work tables between which it should be located. The shaft and table top must be located in the same plane so that the top point of the cutting tool knives coincides with the top surface of the receiving table.

The feed table is mounted in the same plane as the receiving table, but 1–2 mm lower. This distance determines the thickness of the chips removed in one pass. The quality of planing depends on how accurately the planes of the surfaces coincide, namely, how smooth the planed workpiece will be.

Machine assembly diagram

There are options for adjustable feed plane height using eccentrics or a screw mechanism.

When assembling a jointing machine with your own hands at home, it is very difficult to efficiently implement such a mechanism. It would be an incredible achievement if this equipment would plan smoothly with fixed worktops.

The electric drive is mounted on the lower platform of the frame. It is advisable to use an adjustable platform to install the engine to ensure more comfortable belt tension. The tension mechanism can be implemented using a technological hole in the platform and a screw with a nut as adjusting elements.

Connecting mechanisms

Rotation is transmitted from the engine to the shaft by means of a belt drive through pulleys. The pulley sizes are selected in accordance with the engine power and speed.

For a drive with a rotation of 3000 rpm, a ratio of 1 to 2 can be considered normal. For example, the diameter of the cutting tool pulley is 100 mm, on the drive it is 200 mm. Optimal ratio when assembling with your own hands, it can be obtained experimentally and largely depends on the quality and balancing of the rotating parts of the jointer.

The drive is connected to the electrical network using a starting device, in accordance with the instructions of the electric motor.

Alternative option

Simpler and quick way To make a planing machine with your own hands is to use a manual electric planer, having previously modernized it a little. Every self-respecting home carpenter must have such a tool. All that needs to be done is to make a device to fix it.

The easiest option for making a machine with your own hands is to use sheet material as a base.