Clivia - lush inflorescences above succulent foliage. Clivia: home care, cultivation and reproduction

The flower is quite capricious, but thanks to its high decorative properties, many fans of bright colors are eager to get their hands on it. to create a spectacular decor. Long (up to 60 cm), wide (up to 6 cm) leaves and deep orange buds refresh the space.

Clivia miniata will decorate your home and office. Knowledge plus a little patience, and a plant with red-orange petals will delight you with rich shades of buds on a long peduncle.

Can I keep it at home?

Plant tolerates temperature well, humidity, traditional for middle latitudes.

In summer, an exotic flower grows well on fresh air, Necessarily, in a slightly shaded place.

Position the pot according to your whims exotic flower, and during the flowering period the room will be decorated with the bright sun of red-orange buds.

Towards humidity air from Clivia miniata no special requirements: in warm weather it is enough to process long leaves with a damp cloth or sponge.

Temperature

"African miracle" with orange-red buds does not tolerate heat. Before purchasing a decorative element to decorate a room, consider whether you can create optimal conditions for the growth and flowering of Clivia "cinnabar".

Requirements:

  • Spring-summer - the thermometer should not rise above +25 C.
  • When releasing the flower arrow, make sure that the temperature in the room is within optimal limits: no more than +20 C.
  • Has October arrived? It's time to move the clivia to a room where it will be no more than 12–14 degrees.

Pay attention! During “rest” (from October to November/December), Clivia miniata tolerates higher temperatures, but the health of the stems and leaves suffers from unsuitable conditions, and failures occur with the release of the peduncle.

Lighting

Consider the nuances when placing a flowerpot:

  • bright, mandatory, diffused lighting is a plus, direct rays of the sun are a minus;
  • optimal placement - next to the east or west window;
  • at location flower pot on the south side, be sure to create a little shade.

IMPORTANT! Clivia cinnabar with bright orange-red buds does not like direct sun, but complete shade is undesirable.

Avoid the north side: lack of light negatively affects the growth of Clivia "Miniata", the quality and duration of flowering. Sometimes the buds do not appear at all.

Planting, how to replant

Carry out manipulations carefully, disturb the flower less often. Incorrect replanting often ruins the bright decoration of a room.

Rules:

  • replant young shoots every year, move orange clivia to another flowerpot every two or three years;
  • fleshy roots react negatively to transplantation;
  • If the roots of the plant are damaged or rotting, sprinkle them with ash or crushed coal.

IMPORTANT! In years when Clivia orange remains without replanting, refresh the top layer of soil. By the end of February, remove a few centimeters of soil and add fresh soil mixture to the pot.

Helpful Tips:

  • choose not big pot: limited space will ensure regular, long-term flowering of Clivia;
  • When planted in a spacious pot, the power of Clivia miniata will be directed to the formation of strong rhizomes. If you select the wrong pot perfect colors you won't wait.

Priming

To the composition of the soil Clivia orange does not make any special requirements:

  • prepare a mixture of sand, sheet and turf land(proportions 1:2:6);
  • light soil with a slightly acidic reaction is an ideal environment for growth decorative flower.

Reference! Good drainage at the bottom of the flower pot is important to maintain optimal soil moisture.

Fertilizer

Fertilize Clivia cinnabar (Clivia miniata) in spring and summer.

Liquid organic matter works effectively, mineral fertilizers are needed.

Every two weeks alternate organic and synthetic substances.

Be sure to nourish the soil when throwing out the flower arrow.

Watering

"African beauty" does not tolerate waterlogging. Water the plant with soft, settled water at room temperature.

How to proceed:

  • from the beginning of October to the end of November (or until December, if the age of Clivia cinnabar has reached two to three years), watering is not necessary. Renew soil moisture if the plant drops its leaves;
  • when flowering, make sure that the earthen ball is slightly dried out between waterings;
  • water stagnant in the pan is harmful to exotic plant.

Advice! After the formation of bright buds, water the plant more actively. Use only warm water to moisten the soil.

Bloom


Features:

  • February – May. Clivia cinnabar produces a long (up to 50 cm) peduncle;
  • the arrow is crowned with a rosette with spectacular flowers (most often from 10 to 20 pieces);
  • funnel-shaped buds have a peduncle 2–3 cm long, petals up to 5 cm;
  • bright buds of a rich, red-orange hue, yellow throat.

Adviсe:

  • after releasing the arrow, carefully move the flower to a warmer place;
  • be sure to fertilize the soil and water it a little more;
  • “disturb” clivia orange when the peduncle has grown at least 10–15 cm.

Take note:

  • experienced gardeners recommend moving the flowerpot less often during the formation of buds;
  • When moving a pot with a flower to a new place, be sure to place the orange clivia in such a way as to maintain the previous direction of growth.

IMPORTANT! Carefully remove dried buds and peduncles (only after drying).

Rest period

Without this stage, abundant flowering cannot be achieved. The optimal “rest” time depends on age: for young clivias - 2 months (October - November), for adults - until the end of December.

  • be sure to move orange clivia to a cool place. Make sure that the air does not warm up above +14 C, but below +12 degrees is also undesirable: the plant will weaken;
  • watering infrequently, if leaves begin to fall, add a little water;
  • rest lasts 2–3 months;
  • after this period, bring clivia cinnabar “out of hibernation”: provide 18–20 degrees of heat;
  • simultaneously with the change in temperature, return the previous lighting: a sufficient level of light without direct rays.

Clivia cinnabar flower in the photo below:





Reproduction

Seminal

Peculiarities:

  • the fruits ripen in the ninth – tenth month after pollination;
  • From November to April, collect orange clivia seeds and sow them in a mixture of equal parts of turf and sand. Take half as much peat;
  • after a month or a month and a half, shoots appear;
  • transplant the young plant into a small pot after the first leaf appears. Soil: peat, sand and humus - 1 part each, turf - 2 parts;
  • as the flower grows, increase the size of the pot - up to 9–10 cm in the second year, up to 12–13 cm in the third;
  • after six months there are already 4 or 5 leaves, in the second year another three to four pairs of wide, long leaves are added;
  • in the third year in the fall for 2 months, be sure to provide peace, the correct temperature, and humidity: if the conditions are met, a third of the seedlings will bloom for the first time.

Vegetative

  • at home, use “babies” (shoots);
  • when transplanting an exotic plant, carefully separate the shoots that have 4 or more leaves;
  • for the growth of offspring, a mixture of equal parts of greenhouse, leaf and turf soil is suitable;
  • overmoistening is unacceptable: from excessive watering, the transplanted “babies” easily rot;
  • in two to three years, provided the temperature is maintained and a dormant period is ensured, Clivia will definitely delight you with bright colors.

Benefits and harms


The ornamental plant Clivia miniata, native to South Africa, brings warmth into the home.

Flower with funnel-shaped buds An orange-red hue on a long peduncle decorates any room due to its exotic appearance.

Negative impact Clivia miniata not detected: decorative element does not harm people prone to allergies.

Diseases and pests

Clivia is quite capricious: An amateur gardener will have to try hard to please the South African “beauty”. In case of violation of the rules of maintenance and care appearance, the decorative properties of the plant deteriorate, flowering is not so abundant.

Problems and causes:

  • The arrow is not long enough. Minimum moisture, low temperature during clivia growth;
  • lack of buds. The pot with clivia cinnabar stood in an insufficiently lit place, the rest before flowering was too short, the temperature was higher than normal;
  • leaves are covered with white spots. Clivia orange was in direct sun for a long time.

Pests:

  • mealybug. All ground parts of the decorative flower are affected, clivia leaves curl, dry out, and fall off. In the absence of timely measures, the flower dies. Wipe the leaves and stem with a sponge dipped in soapy water. In case of severe damage to orange clivia, use Actellik solution 0.15% for spraying;
  • scale insect Brown plaques are visible on the stem and leaves. Gradually, the scale insect sucks out the juice, the cells lose moisture, pigmentation disappears, the affected leaves dry out and fall off. Measures to combat scale insects are similar to eliminating the influence of mealybugs on the growth and flowering of Clivia miniata.

Subject to compliance with care requirements, sufficient attention to lighting and temperature conditions, clivia cinnabar will last for several years. bright decoration your home or office.

Useful video

It will be useful to watch the following video about caring for, including clivia cinnabar:

Clivia is one of the most unusual indoor plants, which when good care can delight the gardener with its amazing flowers not only in spring or summer, but even in winter time year.

The flower is a member of the amaryllis family. Its habitat is the subtropical zone of South Africa. The plant has only three varieties, the remaining species are obtained by hybridization.

General information

The culture has long, fleshy leaf blades that form a false stem, from the center of which a peduncle with buds appears, which over time turns into beautiful bell-shaped flowers, collected in one neat umbrella inflorescence.

However, in order to grow a beautiful and healthy plant, you should make efforts that will be rewarded with abundant flowering and extraordinary decorativeness.

Clivia types photos and names

(miniata , orange ) – is the most common type of plant. In Latin, the name of the culture is pronounced Clivia miniata. When dormant, almost all plant varieties look the same. The culture reaches a height of up to 70 centimeters and has prominent dark green leaf plates.

The inflorescences of the plant are large, reddish-orange. Flowering time occurs from February to March. Up to 20 inflorescences can be located on one peduncle. It was this flower that became the basis for the development of new varieties of clivia.

– the plant reaches a height of up to 70 centimeters. It has long, fleshy, dark green, belt-like leaf blades. Up to 20 beautiful white inflorescences, bell-shaped, bloom on an elastic, tall peduncle. The crop blooms in early spring.

– the culture has large, umbrella-shaped flowers yellow tint with a delicate aroma. They bloom on a long peduncle that appears during the growing season. Flowering time occurs in mid-spring. The plant reaches a height of 70 centimeters and has rich green strap leaves.

– the variety was bred in 1828 in Europe. In nature, the plant grows in Africa and reaches a height of up to 30 centimeters. The leaf blades are xiphoid, tapered at the ends, long, dark green in color. The peduncle reaches a length of up to 50 centimeters. Up to 60 drooping, tubular inflorescences of a red or yellow-orange hue are formed on it. Flowering time occurs in the second half of winter.

The length of the culture reaches from 30 to 50 centimeters. IN wildlife grows in the Cape Province. The leaf blades are long, dark green with a narrowed end. The peduncle is thick, elastic, and small, pale red inflorescences grow on it, collected in an umbrella. The crop blooms in the second half of winter.

– the plant was discovered by Robert Garden, who first discovered clivia in the city of Kwazal. The culture grows in the shady foothills. Its height reaches 50 centimeters, and the length of the bright green, sword-shaped leaf plates is up to 90 centimeters. The buds appear on a tall peduncle, and when they bloom, they turn into red-orange bell-shaped flowers. Flowering time occurs in autumn or early winter.

– is a miniature variety of plant reaching a height of up to 30 centimeters. The leaf blades are dark green, sword-shaped with a pointed edge. The peduncle is thick and long and can contain up to 60 medium-sized tubular orange inflorescences. This variety of clivia blooms in the second half of winter.

– this variety was bred in 1899. The height of the crop reaches up to 60 centimeters. It has long, strap-like leaf blades of a rich green hue. The inflorescences are a creamy yellow color with a pleasant aroma and are located on a long peduncle. The flowering time of the plant lasts from February to March.

This plant variety was discovered in 1943 in South Africa. The crop is quite large, with an unusual stem formed from the lower dried leaf plates. The stem has an aerial root system and prominent, dark green, smooth, long leaves. The inflorescences are drooping, bell-shaped, red-orange in color. The plant blooms in spring or summer, but there are times when it blooms in autumn.

– this variety was discovered in 2002 in South Africa. The plant reaches a height of 60 centimeters and has unusual sword-shaped leaf plates of a dark green hue with a white stripe in the middle and a dark burgundy base. The inflorescences of the culture are medium-sized, drooping, bell-shaped, orange-red in color.

– the birthplace of the plant is South Africa. The crop grows up to 50 centimeters in length. It has prominent, smooth dark green leaf blades with a white stripe down the middle. Red-orange bell-shaped inflorescences are located on a high peduncle. The plant blooms at the end of spring and beginning of summer.

– the plant reaches a height of 180 centimeters and has long, sword-shaped leaves with a pointed end of a dark green hue. The inflorescences are medium-sized, bell-shaped, forming an umbrella cluster. The crop blooms in mid-winter.

Clivia care at home

In order not to ruin the plant or deplete it, clivia should be wintered in a cool microclimate. Thus, you can not only give the crop a rest, but also allow the bulb to form a peduncle. During flowering, the plant should be created favorable conditions, or rather, maintain the temperature in the region from +17 to +20. After flowering, the crop must be sent for wintering.

In summer, it is best to take clivia outside. From May to mid-August garden conditions she will become even stronger and grow. However, the crop should be placed in the shade, since exposure to direct sunlight will cause burns on the leaves. In mid-August, when the nights begin to get cold, the plant must be brought indoors.

In the summer, the temperature in the room with the plant should not exceed 25 degrees. In winter, clivia should be kept cool. In autumn, the flower should be moved to a bright place with a temperature of 14 to 17 degrees.

The plant likes bright, diffused light, but direct sunlight on the clivia is unacceptable. For this reason, it should be placed on a western, eastern or northwestern window. You can shade the crop using mesh material.

The plant has no special preferences in air humidity. The only thing you need to do is spray the flower in the morning and evening in the summer.

By observing all these requirements, you can grow beautiful plant with decorative properties and bright unique inflorescences, which will delight you with their flowering not only in spring, but also in the winter season.

Zephyranthes is also a member of the Amaryllidaceae family. It can be grown with care at home without much hassle if you follow the rules of agricultural technology. All necessary recommendations You can find it in this article.

Watering clivia

The plant requires moderate watering. If there is an excess of moisture, this will lead to rotting of the root system and death of the crop. For watering, use only settled and warm water.

It is necessary to moisten the soil only when its top layer is completely dry. After the peduncle has been driven out and until all the inflorescences are fully opened, a little more liquid should be added under the plant. After flowering, watering should be reduced.

During wintering, the crop should be watered once a month to prevent the leaf blades from drying out. In winter, you need to carefully monitor the leaves. If they turn yellow and begin to dry out, then the clivia does not have enough moisture. In summer, the flower should be sprayed twice a day, and its leaf blades should be wiped with a damp sponge once a week.

Soil for clivia

You can prepare the soil mixture for the plant yourself. To do this, you need to take turf and leaf soil in equal parts and mix them with a small amount of coarse-grained river sand. Before planting a flower, you should take care of the drainage layer, making it from fine expanded clay.

If desired, the gardener can purchase a substrate specifically for bulbous crops. But before planting, it still needs to be mixed with garden and forest soil in equal proportions.

Transplanting clivia at home

Transplantation should be carried out only if necessary, since if the root system, the plant may die. The exception is young plants, which need to be replanted once a year for the first three years of life.

The crop needs to be replanted if the roots begin to fall out of the drainage holes, or they entwine the soil so tightly that they do not fit into the containers.

The transplant should be carried out together with a land surveyor. The new pot should be slightly larger than the previous one and must have a drainage layer and holes for water to drain.

Those clivias that are already more than ten years old do not need to be replanted at all, replacing only the top layer of soil with a new one.

Clivia pot

The container for planting the crop should be about 3 centimeters wider than the previous one. The plant should be slightly cramped in it, thus you can increase the flowering time of the clivia.

When planting a flower in a large pot, the crop will not bloom until its root system completely occupies the entire container.

When choosing a pot for a plant, you should make sure that it has drainage holes, which will allow air access to the crop and remove excess moisture, thereby avoiding rotting of the root system.

Fertilizer for clivia

The plant should be fed only during the growing season, which lasts from early spring to late summer. Fertilizers should be applied once a month.

You can use complex organic fertilizer“Ideal” or use mineral fertilizer by diluting potassium nitrate, urea and superphosphate in equal proportions. Nitrogen fertilizing should be applied to a minimum, otherwise the plant will have luxurious foliage, but flowering will not appear.

Potassium fertilizer must be applied once in the winter season, when the plant forms a peduncle. From the beginning of autumn to the beginning of spring, clivia cannot be fertilized.

Clivia flowering

The difference between clivia and other plants is its flowering in the winter season. The plant throws out a peduncle in the period from January to March, on which buds are formed, which over time turn into bell-shaped inflorescences. There can be from ten to sixty of them on one crop.

After the buds appear, the flower cannot be moved from place to place, otherwise they will simply fall off. Often the color of the flowers is red or red-orange; yellow and white flowers are less common. Clivia blooms throughout the month. The dormant period for the crop begins either in the middle of winter or in early spring.

Pruning clivia

The procedure for pruning a plant, or rather, its peduncle, is carried out immediately after flowering, cutting it off at the base.

However, if the grower wants to obtain seeds of the crop, the peduncle should be preserved until they ripen. Also, to preserve decorativeness, you can trim the tips of the leaf blades if they turn yellow.

Preparing clivia for winter

In winter, the plant should be kept in a cool room, watering it only once a month as the top layer of soil dries. It is also necessary to ensure that the temperature does not drop below +12, otherwise the crop will die. Optimal temperature conditions indicators from + 14 to +17 will be considered.

When the peduncle appears, the temperature should be increased to 20 degrees. After flowering, it must be reduced again to +17 and maintained in this mode until spring.

Propagation of clivia by children

The most common method of propagation is considered to be propagation of a flower with the help of children that are formed next to the mother plants.

To plant shoots in a permanent place of growth, they should be very carefully dug up and separated so as not to damage the root system of an adult plant. The shoots must have at least four leaves.

Clivia from seeds at home

You can also propagate clivia by seed method. However, in this case, it should be taken into account that the young plant will begin to bloom only after several years. Seed material can only be obtained from plants that are more than eight years old. In order for the seeds to germinate, they must be planted immediately after harvesting.

To sow a plant, prepare a soil mixture and pour it into a container with drainage holes. Then the seeds are distributed over the soil and lightly pressed into the soil mixture, after which the soil is sprayed with a spray bottle, after which it is covered with polyethylene.

The prepared container is placed in a bright and warm place, removing the film from time to time and ventilating the seeds, and if necessary, moistening them. Sprouts will appear in a month. When the young plants take root and grow a little, they can be transplanted into separate containers for further growth.

Diseases and pests

Clivia is susceptible to both pest attacks and certain diseases, which often arise due to improper care of the flower.

From harmful insects, the crop is subject to damage scale insects and mealybugs . Both of these pests feed on the sap of leaf blades and can lead to their death, and subsequently the death of the plant. You can fight them by treating the flower with the Aktara insecticide.

Diseases that can harm the plant root rot and bulb rot . For these ailments of fungal etiology, leaf blades turn brown and wither . If you do not help the plant at the initial stage, it will die.

To relieve the disease, the flower must be removed from the pot, cut off the damaged roots, rinse them in warm water with Fitosporin, treat sections charcoal and transplant to new soil and a pot.

Problems when growing clivia

When growing this unique flower, the following problems may arise:

  • Short peduncle - this situation can arise as a result of low air humidity or too low temperatures.
  • Slower growth - a similar problem occurs due to exposure to pests or lack of sunlight.
  • Yellowing of leaf plates - leaves may turn yellow as a result of sunburn, improper watering, lack of nutrients or after transplantation.
  • Lack of flowering - if the plant has stopped blooming, perhaps the dormant period was not observed, it did not have enough light or it was too high temperature, which led to similar consequences.
  • Drying leaves — drying of leaf plates often occurs as a result of waterlogging of the soil.

By eliminating all the shortcomings in caring for the plant, the gardener will be able to restore it to its former beauty and healthy, decorative appearance.

Clivia signs and superstitions

There are many beliefs about this vibrant exotic culture that many gardeners believe in. Clivia also has its place in the eastern philosophy of Feng Shui.

Since the plant is poisonous, it creates a strong mystical aura and a certain mystery around itself.

Signs about this flower include:

  • Clivia should not be placed in the bedroom, as it will bring discord and quarrels into the marital relationship. In addition, the strong energy of the flower can affect dreams and cause insomnia.
  • The plant is ideal option for decorating the living room and office. In these rooms it will have a beneficial effect on the environment and eliminate negativity. And if you put a few coins in her pot, this will attract wealth to the house and improve family well-being.
  • If a flower has stopped blooming or has suddenly dried up, then this is a very alarming omen, foreshadowing expenses, negative changes and losses of a non-material nature.

At proper care The owner of the clivia plant does not have to worry that any negative changes will occur in his life, everything will be exactly the opposite. Prosperity, joy and family well-being, isn’t this what every person dreams of?

Clivia according to Feng Shui

According to ancient Eastern philosophy, the flower should be grown on the south side of the house. Clivia is able to neutralize negative energy. It is a real find for travelers; it can inspire its owner to new discoveries, achievements and profitable projects.

Since the plant is under the sign of the sun, it is able to harmonize the energy in the house and balance the energy fields of everyone living in it.

Conclusion

Clivia is considered poisonous plant. By following simple safety precautions, the owner will not only maintain his health, but will also be able to enjoy the unique exotic flowers of this crop for many years.

When choosing fertilizers for fertilizing, give preference to specialized fertilizers. Although any fertilizer will do flowering plants. The main thing is that it does not contain large number, which will slow down the main flowering and prevent the possible re-blooming of clivia. A good result is obtained by alternating liquid organic matter and a complete mineral complex. For normal plant development, two per month is enough from the beginning of the growing season (coming out of dormancy) until the end of summer - beginning of autumn.

As for, it is not significant for clivia. You can limit yourself to simply wiping the leaves with a damp sponge. And even then, this is rather a hygienic procedure.

Clivia flowering

The first flowering of a clivia grown from seed. The plant is a little over four years old.

It usually occurs at the end of winter - spring. Although there are frequent exceptions. The timing of clivia flowering may shift depending on the conditions of maintenance, age, size and condition of the plant. Mature and well-groomed plants often bloom again after a certain period of time. The main thing to remember if you want to get a beautiful and abundant flowering clivia - provide the plant for this period good lighting, regular watering and appropriate temperature.

Important! After the plant has come out of dormancy and you have moved it to a bright, warm place, its various movements, including turning the pot, are unacceptable.

Care after flowering

Clivia blooms for a relatively long time. It can last up to a month. After its completion, you can safely transfer the flower to fresh air in light partial shade. At the same time, transplantation and separation of children can be carried out. The question often arises - What to do with the peduncle? Should I cut the clivia flower stalk or not? My advice is don't rush. The peduncle is essentially a modified leaf and it plays its role in the life of the plant. It is also likely that the clivia will produce fruit and you will want to give it the opportunity to ripen in order to obtain seeds suitable for propagation. In this case, you will still have to cut the peduncle, but the plant itself will tell you when it is best to do it. Gradually it will begin to turn yellow and dry out. Usually, when winter begins, the peduncle can be removed.

Clivia transplant

This flower does not like transplants. Therefore, it is better not to disturb him unnecessarily. In adult plants, this need arises most often when the roots no longer fit in the old pot and begin to break through the drainage holes. But even in this case, it is advisable to limit yourself to a more spacious pot. Typically, the need for a clivia transplant occurs once every three years. Young plants are replanted somewhat more often in the first years of life. This is due to more intensive development of the root system and the entire plant as a whole. Use extreme caution when replanting. Be careful not to damage the roots of the flower. Any damage to the root system of clivia can lead to its rotting and death of the plant. If the root is damaged, be sure to immediately sprinkle it with crushed activated carbon.

This is what the clivia root system looks like after clearing the soil. All that remains is to remove a couple or three damaged roots, and you can plant new pot.

Pay attention! Clivia does not like spacious dishes. Therefore, select the next pot for replanting only slightly larger than the previous one. In a spacious pot it will not bloom well.

The composition of the soil suitable for clivia is quite simple and it can be prepared independently at home. It is enough to mix turf soil, leaf soil and sand in equal parts. For young plants, you can slightly increase the sand content in the mixture, or even better, replace it or. Before transplanting (transferring) into a new pot, be sure to add a layer of drainage material.

Important! Make sure everything bottom part leaves remained above the surface of the ground. Otherwise, there is a high probability of them rotting.

Clivia propagation

This can be done in two ways: by seeds and by separating the baby. True, for this you need to have either a seed or a baby.

Propagation by seeds

Often, the clivia fruit sets on its own, without outside intervention. But in order to be guaranteed to get the fruit, it will be necessary to cross-pollinate the flowers during flowering. Fruit ripening is quite long, can last up to nine months. When the berries become completely soft, this will be a sign of ripeness.

Keep this in mind! Fruiting exhausts the plant. Therefore, you should not overuse it.

The seeds, cleared of pulp, are planted in a light mixture of sand (or perlite) and bottom peat. The seed is buried to a centimeter depth and placed under a transparent cap ( glass jar, for example). Caring for a planted seed is the same as for or regular seeds flowers and vegetables, . Depending on the conditions, seedlings may appear in a month to a month and a half. When the first true leaf appears, the young clivia can be planted in a small pot with permanent soil. As the flower develops, transplant it into another, larger container. After three years, on the fourth you can try to stimulate flowering. To do this, with the onset of autumn, stop watering and place the flower in a cool place for two months. If the clivia doesn't bloom, it's okay. So it's not time yet.

Reproduction by children

A year after flowering and transplanting, the clivia gave birth to a baby. Accordingly, she is now in her sixth year.

This is a simpler method, although it requires extreme accuracy and caution. And the flowering of such clivia occurs much earlier. But first you need to wait until the plant gives birth to a baby and it reaches a sufficient size. A Clivia baby suitable for separation must have at least four leaves. It is transplanted from the mother plant after flowering has ended, simultaneously with replanting. The separated baby is planted in a small pot filled with a very light substrate. Often, clean sand or perlite is used for this. The biggest danger facing young clivia at this stage is waterlogging. Therefore, try to water it very sparingly. When the plant grows and its roots become stronger, it can be transplanted into more nutritious, but not particularly heavy soil. Clivia propagated in this way may well bloom within two to three years.

Noticed an error in the text?

Select it with the mouse and press Ctrl+Enter

Search the site

Site sections

Latest articles

Latest comments, questions and answers to them

  • Uncle Cactus onOf course, a lemon cutting can bloom in...
  • Elena onGood afternoon I want to ask you about the article about lemon.…
  • Uncle Cactus onThere's nothing particularly creepy. You can leave it as it is...
  • Maya onHello, I have such a problem, my Money…

Flower clivia (lat. Clivia), or kaffir lily belongs to a small genus of evergreen herbaceous perennials of the Amaryllis family. In nature, clivia flowers grow on the west coast of South Africa and are represented by only three species. As a houseplant, clivia attracts with its beauty and ease of care. Indoor clivia is beautiful both during flowering and during the dormant period, since not only the bell-shaped flowers of the plant are beautiful, but also its juicy dark green leaves. Clivia belongs to the plants of the sign of Sagittarius, so for those born under this zodiac sign, it helps to maintain a love of life and protects them from negative influences.

Listen to the article

Planting and caring for clivia (in brief)

  • Bloom: about a month in late winter or early spring.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light (western, eastern or northern window sill).
  • Temperature: 20-25 ˚C during the growing season and 12-15 ˚C during the dormant period.
  • Watering: moderate, the top layer of the substrate should dry between waterings.
  • Humidity: doesn't matter.
  • Feeding: during the period of growth and flowering every 2 weeks with mineral or organic fertilizers.
  • Rest period: from October or November for one and a half to two months.
  • Transfer: young ones - annually, adults - once every 2 or 3 years, large specimens are not replanted: every year the top layer of substrate 5 cm thick is replaced in their pots.
  • Reproduction: seed and vegetative (lateral shoots).
  • Pests: aphids, scale insects, mealybugs.
  • Diseases: gray rot, staganosporosis, root rot.

Read more about growing clivia below.

Clivia flower - growing features

The indoor clivia flower is a stemless evergreen with dark green elastic sword-shaped leaves from 40 to 75 cm long and 5.5 to 8 cm wide. The basal leaves of clivia, forming a rosette, tightly cover each other, forming a false stem. The peduncle, ribbed along the edges, of which one plant can have several, reaches a height of 20 to 40 cm, on which an umbrella-shaped inflorescence is formed of 12-30 bell-shaped flowers with a diameter of 15 to 20 cm, which bloom gradually, so the flowering of clivia lasts up to three weeks . The fruit of clivia is a berry. In home floriculture, Clivia cinnabar (Clivia miniata) and Clivia beautiful (Clivia nobilis) are most often grown. What distinguishes the clivia plant from other amaryllis and other indoor flowers?

  • It is like a transitional plant from bulbous to rhizomatous. It has a short, succulent rhizome with thick, fleshy roots.
  • All parts of clivia are used in pharmacology, but it should be remembered that the roots and leaves of clivia are toxic because they contain lycorin, which causes increased salivation, vomiting, and even paralysis in large doses, so be careful when replanting the plant and warn your family about these properties of clivia.
  • At home, clivia needs a period of rest in a cool room, but if the rules for caring for the plant are followed and it is comfortable in your place, then in adulthood clivia can bloom even twice a year.
  • Clivia does not tolerate disturbance: do not move or move the pot during flowering or bud formation, and do not replant the plant until the roots begin to crawl out of the drainage hole.

Caring for clivia at home

How to care for clivia

Caring for clivia will not cause you any difficulties and will not require any special conditions, like exotic orchids, for example. Best place for clivia - a window sill facing east. Or to the west. Or to the north - the main thing is that the lighting is bright, but straight sun rays did not burn the plant. A comfortable temperature for clivia is 20-25 ºC during the growing season and 12-15 ºC during the dormant period. In the summer, clivia likes to be outdoors somewhere in partial shade. Clivia does not care about the level of air humidity, so you will only need to wash the leaves for reasons of hygiene. The plant should be kept moderately moist; the top layer of soil in the pot should dry out between waterings. Water for irrigation needs to be soft - settled, or preferably boiled. Clivia will need fertilizers during the period of growth and flowering - after the appearance of the peduncle, every two weeks, feed the plant alternately with liquid organic and complete mineral fertilizer at the rate of 2 g per 1 liter of water, but remember that excess nitrogen in fertilizing can prevent the second flowering of clivia.

Clivia transplant

Clivia should be replanted only as a last resort, when the roots come out of the pot. How and when to transplant clivia correctly? Usually, adult clivias have to be transferred to a new, more spacious pot after flowering (and only!) every two or three years. Young plants are replanted annually. Be very careful that the roots do not break during replanting, and if this does happen, immediately sprinkle the wounds with crushed coal, because broken roots easily rot. You will need a small pot, frankly speaking, a bit cramped, but this is done so that the clivia blooms longer and more beautifully. A mixture of sand, leaf and turf soil in equal parts is suitable as soil. And don't forget about the drainage layer. Very large old clivias are no longer replanted; the top layer of soil is renewed annually - about 5 cm.

Clivia flowering

Clivia usually blooms in late winter or early spring, and as soon as you notice that the flower shoot has reached 10-15 cm, move the plant from a cool room to a warm, bright place, increase watering and start fertilizing regularly. Keep in mind that from the moment the clivia returns to the bright, warm windowsill, it can no longer be moved or rotated. Clivia flowering lasts about a month, depending on the number of peduncles and flowers on them.

Clivia after flowering

When the clivia has faded, it can be placed on a balcony, terrace or taken out into the garden, finding a windless place for it there. shady place. If you want to get the plant to bloom again, bring it in the summer, after relaxing in the garden, in a dark room, reduce watering and stop fertilizing. After two weeks, the lower leaves will begin to turn yellow, but a flower shoot may appear, and when it reaches 10-15 cm... you already know what to do next. However, keep in mind that only a strong mature plant can bloom again.

Clivia care in winter

Or rather, in the fall - after all, it is at this time that the dormant period of clivia begins. How larger plant, the longer its rest should be after flowering. Young clivias should rest from September for two months. Large adult specimens rest (if they have already flowered) from October to February. The best place for this is a glazed loggia.

Clivia propagation

Clivia from seeds

How to grow clivia? There are generative and vegetative methods Clivia propagation. Anyone who decides to get seeds from their own clivia will have to resort to artificial pollination. If you can do this, we wish you good luck. For those who do not want to complicate their lives, it will be easier to buy seeds in the store. Growing clivia from seeds is preceded by soaking planting material to swell for a day in water, then clivia seeds are sown in a mixture of peat and perlite (some prefer a mixture of sand with peat and turf soil) to about a centimeter depth. The distance between the seeds is about 2 cm. The container is placed in a greenhouse and kept at a temperature of 20-25 ºC, ventilated and moistened as necessary. Sprouts appear in a month and a half. After the first leaf appears, the seedlings are carefully planted into individual pots with a mixture of clay, humus and deciduous soil, and then transferred to pots annually larger size. Clivia grows slowly - in the first year only two or three leaves develop, in the second year - three or four pairs of leaves, then two pairs of leaves per year. Clivia grown from seeds blooms in the fifth or sixth year.

Propagation by side shoots

The vegetative method of propagating clivia is much simpler than the generative method. When replanting an adult specimen that has faded this year, you only need to be very careful, so as not to damage the fragile root system, to separate the lateral shoots - clivia children - from the mother plant. Those that have already formed at least four leaves are suitable. The separated shoots are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 7 cm with sand and, placing them in a bright, warm place, they are cared for as an adult plant, with the only difference that they will need a little more heat and a little less moisture. In the third or fourth year, young clivias will bloom.

Pests and diseases of clivia

Diseases and insects

Of the insect pests, clivia is affected by mealybugs, aphids or scale insects. Scale insects leave brown plaques on the leaves and stems - the calling cards of a pest that sucks cell sap from the plant, causing the leaves to turn pale and dry. Mealybugs deform the leaves, shoots and flowers of the plant. To combat all these pests, wipe the leaves with a soapy sponge, and then spray the plant with a fifteen percent Actellik solution (a couple of milliliters per liter of water).

From too frequent and too abundant watering, clivia can be affected by gray rot - a fungal disease that manifests itself brown spots on the leaves of the plant. If the infection is superficial, spray the clivia with Bordeaux mixture, Topaz or Champion. If treatment with fungicides does not produce the desired effect, use copper-containing preparations of combined or contact action - cuprosate, vitriol.

Why doesn't clivia bloom?

Very often site visitors ask the question of how to make clivia bloom. But in order to find incentives, it is necessary to find out the reasons why clivia does not bloom. There may be several reasons: firstly, a warm winter, or rather, a period of rest spent in warm room; secondly, non-compliance with the rules of the rest period - abundant watering or unnecessary feeding at this time; thirdly, the cause may be an excess nitrogen fertilizers, which promote the growth of greenery, but prevent the flowering of clivia. Re-read the rules for growing a plant and determine where you went wrong.

Clivia leaves are turning yellow

If the lower leaves of a plant turn yellow and die and this happens during the dormant period, everything is in order, you are witnessing the natural course of things. But if the problem is not related to the rest period of the clivia, then your concern is justified. So, why does clivia turn yellow? Sometimes this is a plant’s reaction to replanting, so you need to add a few drops of root or other root growth stimulant to the water for irrigation for one and a half to two months. But most often the problem is improperly moistening the clivia: you either do not water it enough, or, on the contrary, pour too much water, or do it too often. If watering is insufficient, this is easy to fix, but if you overdid it with moisture, you will have to change the substrate to save the flower, after cutting off the rotten roots and disinfecting all the cuts. Sometimes clivia leaves turn yellow due to lack of nutrition. In a word, the problem is in violating the rules of caring for the plant - it’s in them, in the rules, that you look for the cause of the disease, and having discovered the cause, it’s not difficult to find its solution.

Clivia leaves are drying up

The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry, usually due to waterlogging of the soil. It is worth remembering that the rhizome of a plant is a repository of moisture reserves and other substances useful to the plant, so do not try to water the plant once for its entire life - in this matter, as in any other, you need to observe moderation.

The flower is a member of the amaryllis family and includes five varieties of evergreen herbaceous plants.

Clivia differs from other representatives of this family in that does not enter a dormant period on its own.

Another difference is that its root system is not a bulb, but a rhizome.

The birthplace of the above-mentioned plant is the west of the Republic of South Africa. In the middle of the 19th century, this plant was brought to Europe and began to be cultivated as an indoor plant.

The Clivia leaf is leathery, belt-shaped and large in size. The leaves embrace each other so tenaciously that they create a pseudostem. They have a glossy surface and dark green color. Slightly curved leaves originate in a basal rosette and resemble an elegant fan.

The length of the leaves can reach 50 centimeters. Every year appears up to six fresh leaves, and several old ones dry up and fall off. Thus, this plant undergoes natural renewal of foliage.

Seeds may appear in Clivia, which has crossed the threshold of eight years of age, as a result of artificial pollination. The fruits of this plant are berries, each of which can contain from one to six round-shaped seeds. At first the fruit is bright green in color, but after ripening it turns red. The maturity of a fruit can be determined by its softness.

Photo of the plant



See the photo below to see what the seeds look like:

Species

Let's look at some types indoor plant Clivia.

Cinnabar

This species can be found in the shaded forests of Natal in South Africa. It is characterized by a height of up to 50 centimeters, and its sword-shaped leaves are up to 60 centimeters long. The flowering period of this plant starts in February and ends in May.

They are characterized by bright red flowers, in the center of which there may sometimes be a bright yellow spot. One umbrella inflorescence contains up to 20 flowers.

Noble

This species differs from others in its small height, which is no more than 30 centimeters. The belt-shaped leaves are characterized by the presence of sharp edges. The strong peduncle grows up to 50 centimeters and forms from 50 to 60 tubular buds, the diameter of which is about 2 centimeters. Inside, the flowers are light yellow in color with a greenish throat, and with outside- orange.

The plant is common in the Cape Province of South Africa. Its flowering period usually occurs in winter.

Citrina

It is a variety of Vermilion Clivia that is characterized by creamy yellow flowers and yellow berries. In shape and size it is completely identical to its predecessor.

Gardena

This variety originates in the Transvaal and Natal. This plant reaches a height of 50 centimeters, and the width of its sword-shaped leaves is about 4 centimeters. In winter or autumn, from 10 to 16 tubular narrow flowers, red in color with greenish edges, bloom on the peduncle.

Stem

This plant was discovered in 1943 in the damp foothills of the northern and eastern South African provinces. For him characterized by the presence of a stem with aerial roots, formed from dried leaves, the length of which can reach 2 meters. The length of the belt-shaped leaves is from 30 to 60 centimeters, and the width is from 3 to 7 centimeters.

The flowering period of this variety occurs in summer. It blooms about 20 flowers that are orange in color with green tips on the petals.

Amazing

This new look Clivia, which was discovered in 2002. It is characterized by the unusual color of the leaves, which have a whitish stripe in the middle and dark burgundy tones near the base. Clivia is a plant that is extremely hardy.

Care

Requires special. The plant will feel most comfortable near the east or west window. It should be protected from direct sunlight.

IMPORTANT! On a northern windowsill, the plant will not bloom due to lack of lighting.

During spring and summer, Clivia should be kept at air temperature from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius, and with the onset of October it needs to be reduced until 12-14 degrees above zero. When the plant releases a peduncle, the air temperature should be increased up to 18-20 degrees Celsius.

Clivia requires moderate watering with settled soft water, but during the flowering period it should be plentiful. In summer, it is recommended to wipe the leaves of the plant with a wet sponge. The flower responds remarkably well to the addition of organic or complex mineral fertilizers.

Bloom

Some varieties of the plant described above are capable of blooming twice throughout the year.

IMPORTANT! Clivia should be provided with a period of rest.

The duration of this period for young plants should be at least two months, and it should begin in October or November. From September it is necessary to completely stop watering and resume it only if it begins to shed its leaves.

With the appearance of flower shoots, the plant must be placed in a warm place, watered more often and fed with fertilizers.
During the period of bud setting and flowering, you should not move the pot with the plant. The flowering period often begins in February and lasts about four weeks.

Growing from seeds

The seeds are quite large in size and easy to germinate. When growing a plant from seeds, its flowering will begin no earlier than after 3-4 years.

Since the seeds of this flower do not have a dense shell, you need to monitor their storage conditions; the slightest damage can lead to rotting. It is better to plant the material immediately after purchase, but if it is impossible to the right way Storage will be to keep the seeds in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. To prevent them from drying out, wrap them in a damp cloth.

Clivia seeds germinate quickly when the necessary conditions are created.:

  • Temperature 23-25°C.
  • Humidity 60 - 70%.
  • Sterility.

Before sowing, seeds must be disinfected. To do this, take 1 part of a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution and 2 parts of water. The seeds are dipped in this solution for 10-20 minutes.

Germination in soil

Use soil with good drainage from vermiculite, sand and granite chips. Before sowing, the soil is moistened and the seeds are pressed into the soil. The container is covered with transparent glass or film and placed in a warm and bright place. When the leaves grow, remove the lid and begin to feed the clivias with a weak solution of special fertilizers. Do not let the plants flood; the soil should dry out between waterings.


Sprouted clivia seeds look very unusual - they produce a sprout and root from one point. Therefore, when planting a seed in the ground, we leave it on the surface, pointing the root down. Over time, the seed will dry out and fall off. The duration of seed germination is 1-6 weeks.


Useful video

You can learn more about the features of home care in the video below: