Planting, care and propagation of rose hips in a summer cottage. Rosehip is a useful protector

Rosehip wrinkled, Japanese rose, wrinkled rose - all these are the names of one of the species spray roses. Each season, these roses produce one wave of blooms ranging from white to dark pink. The care and maintenance of this variety of roses is quite simple and mainly consists of light annual pruning. More severe pruning is necessary if the plant grows excessively.

Steps

Basic annual pruning

    Know when to prune. Pruning should be done after the plant has entered its dormant period. This could be any time from late autumn to early spring.

    • Best time for pruning - early spring, after the danger of frost has passed. Pruning makes the plant easily vulnerable, and such plants tend to tolerate frost less well. If you live in a fairly warm climate, waiting until spring is not a problem if you prune the plant while it is dormant.
    • The only pruning you should do during the growing season is trimming spent flowers. It should be performed as needed throughout flowering.

  1. Decide whether you will pick the wilted flowers. You can pick off faded flowers before their petals fall off, but this is not strictly necessary for rugose hips.

    Remove unhealthy shoots. These are dead, drying and diseased shoots. Weak, thin shoots are also considered diseased and must be removed every year during the dormant period.

    • Acute cutting tool cut the shoots at a 45 degree angle.
    • You can usually tell by looking whether a stem or shoot is alive or not. Dead shoots are usually withered, dark brown or black.
    • Weakened shoots include any shoots whose diameter is less than the diameter of a standard pencil.
    • Dead shoots should be removed completely, at ground level.
    • Partially dead shoots should be cut back to the point where the dead and living wood meet. Make the cut so that you leave some dry wood, which will protect the living wood from damage.
    • If you are unable to determine where the dead wood ends and the living wood begins, trim the dry wood gradually until you reach a point where the center of the cut is completely white, with no visible brown or black.

  2. Remove questionable shoots. In this case, these will primarily be shoots that intertwine or grow at the wrong angle.

    • Branches crossing each other, or branches rubbing against other branches, can cause problems. Light and air are not able to flow freely to these branches, resulting in an increased likelihood of damage or disease.
    • Trim overlapping or rubbing shoots below the problem area. If the shoots grow back the same way next year, cut them back at ground level to prevent the problem from happening again next year.

  3. Trim healthy shoots as needed. The center of the bush should be open enough for free air flow and easy access. If your rose hips are growing too vigorously, it may be necessary to cut off some of the older shoots in the center of the plant, even if they are healthy.

Additional cosmetic trimming

    Understand the purpose of cosmetic trimming. Rosehip often grows in a neat bush without any intervention, but if the bush takes on an untidy appearance or grows quickly, then in order to put it in order, cosmetic pruning must be done.

    Wait until the dormant season. Perform annual pruning only when the plant enters its dormant period. Best option- wait until the last frost has passed early spring. But you can prune a rosehip bush at any time, from late autumn to early spring.

  1. Remove all root suckers. These are shoots that grow from the roots of a plant as an alternative to the main shoot. Cut them off at ground level.

    • Besides looking untidy, the main problem with root suckers is that they grow too well and deprive the main bush of rose hips. nutrients, which he needs. As a result, your bush will weaken and eventually die.
    • Cutting off the root suckers at ground level is usually sufficient, but if you want to do something more drastic, dig up the root from which the shoot is growing and tear off or cut off a piece of the root along with the root sucker.

  2. Cut off a third of the shoots. Start with the oldest shoots, cutting off one-quarter to one-third of the shoots on the plant. These shoots should be cut at ground level.

    • In this case, "ground level" means the height from the ground to 4 cm above the ground.
    • Make each cut with sharp scissors at a 45-degree angle.
    • Ideally, you should try to prune above a bud. If you do not find a low enough bud, then the bush should still form a new bud below the cut site at the beginning of the next growing season.
    • If your plant is weak, you can trim the branches down to new growth instead of cutting at ground level.
  • Always use sharp and clean garden shears or other tools. Following this rule reduces the risk mechanical damage plants or disease spread.
  • Make each cut at a 45 degree angle. Ideally, cuts should be made approximately 0.6 cm above the healthy kidney.

Warnings

  • If you have had problems with woodworms in the past, you will need to seal the cut areas to prevent these pests from entering. The easiest way to do this is to immediately apply a small amount of PVA glue to the cut with a brush.

Rose hip - perennial shrub, a genus of plants. Its second name is “wild rose”. Rosehip not only has beautiful flowers, but is also a storehouse of vitamins. On summer cottage it rightfully holds the record for vitamin C content, ahead of apples and currants. When planting shrubs, you need to take into account the composition of the soil, as well as the lack groundwater, because their stagnation can lead to rotting of the roots. Caring for rose hips mainly consists of watering, pruning and feeding the plant. Reproduction is carried out by root suckers, seedlings, and also by growing from seeds. About 100 varieties of rose hips grow on the territory of the Russian Federation. Moreover, many of them are endemic. You can familiarize yourself with the variety of varieties of “wild rose” by viewing the photo gallery.

Varieties

When choosing rose hips for planting in your summer cottage, it is best to give preference to varieties with a high content of vitamins.

  • Rose wrinkled(R. rugosa). One of the most popular species among gardeners. Its height reaches one and a half meters. It has a huge number of shoots, which facilitates the reproduction process. The species is frost-resistant and is not afraid of soils rich in salts. It can grow in poor soils and windy areas. The homeland of the wrinkled rose is the Far East.
  • Rosehip May, also known as Sh. cinnamon (R. cinnamomea L., R.maialis Herrm). IN wildlife grows independently in the European part of Russia, right up to Siberia. The height of this plant varies around 2 m. It is distinguished by sparse thorns, and there are none at all on the shoots with flowers. The species blooms in May.

Rosehip May

  • Rosehip needle(R. acicularis Lindley). A winter-hardy variety that can withstand severe frosts(up to -40 degrees). The height of the bush varies from 1 to 3 m. The fruits of the needle rose are distinguished by a high content of vitamin C, and their size reaches 1.5 cm.
  • Rose Webb(R. webbiana Wall. ex Royle). A perennial plant whose height reaches 1 m. It has sparse, slightly curved thorns. The flowers are red or pink, sometimes white. It grows mainly on the slopes of mountain ranges (in the Himalayas, Pamirs, Tibet and Mongolia).
  • Dog rose(R. canina) is a plant species with low ascorbic acid. His distinguishing feature– absence of a hole on the top of the head and rapidly falling leaves.

Advice. Rose hips can be easily tested for vitamin content. It is believed that the vitamin species of the plant can whistle. If you blow into the hole at the top of the fruit, you will hear a small whistle.

Among selection varieties highlight:

  • "Vitamin VNIVI"– early middle grade. Requires pollination. Therefore, you will need to plant another bush, but of a different variety. It has massive fruits and a considerable amount of vitamins. The yield of the variety is about 2.5 kg per plant. There are no thorns in the fruiting areas, which facilitates the process of collecting fruits.
  • "Vorontsovsky 1"- a hybrid of two roses: wrinkled and Webb. In addition to vitamins C and bioflavonoids, it has a high content folic acid. The yield of this variety is slightly higher than that of the previous one and is about 3 kg.
  • "Large-fruited VNIVI"– winter-hardy, high-yielding and resistant to diseases and pests. Different long flowering. Rose hips are usually used to make jam, jam and other preparations.

Rosehip large-fruited VNIVI

  • "Russian 1"– vitamin grade. Grown mainly in the Ural region. Productivity is from 1.5 to 2 kg. Rust resistant.
  • "Globe" – winter-hardy variety, high, contains many vitamins.
  • "Finger"– winter-hardy and pest-resistant variety. Grown in the West Siberian region.
  • "Victory". Not much different from the previous variety. In addition to the above characteristics, it has a pleasant aroma.
  • "Titanium"– a tall shrub with fruits growing in 3–5 pieces. Productivity is very high, resistant to diseases and pests.
  • "Apple"- a low shrub that has large fruits with a sweet and sour taste.
  • "Sergievsky"– a variety with an average ripening period. The fruits are sweet and sour with a high content of vitamin C.
  • "Ural Champion". A very winter-hardy variety that is suitable for cultivation in all regions of the country.

Planting and care

Rosehip is a completely unpretentious shrub. It is planted to produce fruits that contain large amounts of vitamins. In particular, vitamin C. In addition, the plant produces incredible aroma during the flowering period.

Rose hips are planted in the fall. The place should be bright. But even in a shaded area it will grow well. But if you want to get a good rose hip harvest, it is better to choose an area well lit by the sun.

Planting procedure: step-by-step instructions

  1. Dig a hole the length, width and height, which should be about half a meter.
  2. At the bottom of the dug hole there should be a small mound of soil.
  3. Carefully spread out the roots and cover them with soil.
  4. Water the planted plant with water.
  5. Shelters on winter period not required.

Advice. Planting can be done in the spring, but it is better to do it before buds form. This is done so that the rose hips can more easily withstand planting.

Another planting rule is maintaining the distance between bushes. It must be at least 120 cm.
Rosehip care involves watering, pruning and fertilizing. In the first year of life, especially during drought, the plant needs periodic watering. Mature shrubs are watered infrequently, but abundantly. Watering is required during the period when the ovaries appear, provided there is no rain. A young bush requires up to 30 liters of water, and a fruit-bearing bush requires even more – about 50 liters.

If the rosehip bush is trimmed, it will become a worthy element of landscape design

Rose hips are often used as a hedge. To ensure that the plant does not lose its decorative properties, it should be pruned periodically. Pruning is done in autumn or early spring before buds appear. You can also prune at the end of winter, when all the dried and dead branches are visible.

Fertilizer

Fertilizing requires special consideration. Root feeding is done about four times during the year: before and after flowering, at the beginning of fruit ripening and after harvesting.

For the first feeding you need organic fertilizer, which is diluted at the rate of 3 tbsp. l per bucket of water.
The second feeding consists of half a glass of Agricola per bucket of water. Sometimes organic fertilizer is added.

The third feeding consists of using only Agricola.

For the last feeding, take a bucket of water and 2 tbsp. l "Agricolaaqua" products. This solution is used to treat rosehip bushes after the end of flowering three times every 10 days.

Wild rose propagation

Rosehip propagation is carried out in several well-known ways.

Growing from seeds. Seeds are collected for planting in August, when the fruits are not yet fully ripe.

  • The fruits are collected.
  • The seeds are removed and washed.
  • Sowing is carried out in September, deepening the seeds by 2 cm. The distance between the seeds should be at least 5 cm.

Rosehip seeds

By green cuttings. Convenient way with a high percentage of rooting.

  • The cuttings are cut with an oblique cut.
  • Dip into root growth activator.
  • Transplanted into pots.
  • Cover with film and water moderately as the soil dries.
  • Planted in open ground.

Reproduction root shoots. The method is used to save properties mother bush. Infrequently used.

Dividing the bush. A shrub about 6 years old is dug up and the rhizome is divided into several parts. Small shrubs are immediately planted in the ground, without waiting for the roots to dry.

Diseases and pests

"Wild Rose" is susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. These include rust, powdery mildew, gray and brown rot, and damage is caused by rose flies, leaf rollers, spider mites and sawflies.

Using garlic infusion from laundry soap will help get rid of insects. The shrub should be sprayed with this mixture before flowering and after harvesting the fruits. Topaz will help with rust, and Bordeaux mixture will help with black spotting.

Treat the bushes against pests several times a season.

Rosehip is a high-vitamin plant and perennial. Often used in landscape design as a hedge. Planting and caring for it is not burdensome. Feeding plays a special role. They are held four times a year. Rose hips are used to make tea, decoction, preserves and jam. The shrub contains a large amount of vitamin C and is an excellent remedy for the prevention and treatment of colds.

Growing rose hips: video

Rose hips on a personal plot: photo



Rose hips, bred for cultivation within the city, are distinguished by the ability to use all parts of the plant for medicinal purposes. These are fruits, leaves, and roots. The botanical description of rugosa rose allows you to determine which specific species is suitable for certain planting areas.

Features of culture

Park roses are classified as the most ancient groups, which usually consist of large bushes. Other characteristics:

  • Flowers of various colors, rarely double, consisting of five petals.
  • Resistant to low temperatures.
  • Unpretentiousness, no need for regular pruning.
  • Resistance to fungal and microbial flora, harmful insects.
  • Possibility of use as ornamental shrubs.

During the period when the fruits ripen and flowering begins, the plant has maximum decorative properties. These roses are not used for cutting flowers and then assembling them into buds. Rose hips occupy the most important place in this group. The shrub is represented by 50 species that grow only in Russia. In total, more than 400 of them are known.

Prickly bushes are found almost all over the planet, right up to the Philippine Islands. The main advantages here are the ability to withstand difficult weather conditions in Russia. At the same time, the culture is light-loving. She needs fertile soil, which must be moistened in a timely manner. Responds well to fertilizers.

Flowering begins in late spring and continues until mid-summer. Petals may be red, pink, white or yellow tint. flowering bush looks very nice. Fruiting begins at the age of three. Sometimes it may appear a little earlier. The common rose hip reaches a height of 2 m.

The shrub is covered with thorns, winter-hardy, unpretentious, tolerates heat and lack of moisture. Sometimes it is used in the arrangement of hedges, but for the most part it is an ornamental plant.

Some people try to use this variety as a source of healing potions included in various folk recipes.

Bush development

Rose hips can grow quite quickly. Their shoots grow in the shape of an arc, which makes it convenient to tie them to the fence. There should be a distance of up to 3.5 m between plants. Petals during the flowering period can be fragrant and bright pink. The fruits have a red-orange hue and are distinguished by decorative properties. If required planting material, you can grow it yourself, but such a procedure will be quite labor-intensive. It is better to buy ready-made planting material.

On the other hand, you can hardly find seeds in stores that will 100% sprout. You can get rose hips yourself:

  • resorting to layering methods;
  • using root shoots from the mother bush;
  • through green cuttings.

Most often, rose hips are propagated by sowing seeds. They have a durable shell. Due to this, stratification becomes noticeably more difficult. This is where negative reviews arise that the seeds seem to have been sown, but the shoots never appeared.

In this case, there is a secret that says that the fruits for seeds must be collected unripe. They are removed from the bushes at the end of summer. The seeds must be immediately freed from their hard shell and, buried in damp sand, sent to the refrigerator. Here they should lie until September. As soon as the seeds are ready, they must be immediately sown in a bed that is prepared in advance. The soil for it needs to be properly compacted.

In the spring, we manage to get the long-awaited shoots. It is best to choose March for planting rose hips. This must be done until the buds bloom on the trees. Planting is also allowed in September . How it happens:

  • The roots and shoots of seedlings are shortened.
  • Planting in a permanent place is carried out at a depth of 4 to 6 cm.
  • The roots are pruned. In this case, three points are left that have received the greatest development.

Planting is done in such a way that plants of the same flowering time are located directly next to each other. This will ensure stable high yield fruits, because, as you know, cross-pollination is a guarantee of successful fruiting.

Rose hips begin to bear fruit in the fifth year. In the future, to maintain the functional state of the bush, it is necessary to remove all parts that have stopped bearing fruit. Thanks to this measure, productivity increases by 25 years. The plant itself also receives certain bonuses, for example, it is rejuvenated.

Fruits and their benefits

The so-called dog rose is the most famous. At the same time, it contains the least amount of vitamins. In the most useful varieties in this regard, the sepals retain an erect appearance until the fruit ripens. In species with low vitamin value, they bend back as soon as budding ends. Long before ripening, most of them fall to the ground.

To preserve the vitamins in the fruits, you need to collect them immediately. To do this, just touch them. They will be quite hard. The coloring will also become characteristic of a particular species. For drying, they resort to the classic method, which eliminates the impact elevated temperatures. First, take a piece of burlap and spread the fruits on it. A place must be chosen that is protected from direct sun rays and without drafts. At the same time, air stagnation is unacceptable here.

If the fruits have been dried correctly, they appear brownish in color and have a wrinkled surface. They have no smell, and the taste of rose hips is sweet and sour. The walls of such fruits are fragile and hard. During thermal drying, most of the vitamins are lost. Throughout the winter, rose hips are stored in paper bags. Cardboard boxes are suitable as an alternative.

The properties of rose hips are due to the presence of compounds such as:

  • pectin and tannins;
  • malic and citric acids;
  • sugar;
  • carotene;
  • vitamins B, C and K.

There is 10 times more ascorbic acid here compared to black currant berries. For some reason, it is believed that the infusion of rosehip roots is the most valuable and supposedly the other parts of the plant are not so useful. But this is a myth. All parts, including leaves and fruits, are of equal value. But it is strictly not recommended to touch the roots, as this will lead to the loss of a valuable plant.

As for the processing technique, fruit infusion is the most preferable. How to cook:

  1. Take uncrushed fruits in the amount of one glass and wash.
  2. Sent in a liter thermos. Pour boiling water over the rose hips and leave for 6 hours. This interval can be increased to 8 hours.

Gradually, as you use the infusion, you can add boiling water a second and even a third time. Each subsequent infusion will be ready after 3 hours. But even if you don’t have a thermos, you shouldn’t cook rose hips. It is advisable to bring it to a boil and turn off the heat, then cover it tightly with a cloth. Useful properties Rose hips are used to strengthen the immune system.

The infusion strengthens the walls of blood vessels, tones, removes excess bile from the liver and gallbladder, and prevents the development of atherosclerotic plaques. It is used for intestinal disorders, as a weak analgesic and antimicrobial agent. It removes excess water from the body and prevents the development of inflammation.

Cinnamon Rosehip

It is believed that this is the most valuable variety by vitamin content. This is a low shrub, the shoots of which are covered with shiny bark of a brownish-red hue. Its branches look like twigs and are equipped with hooked thorns. There are also large numbers of straight bristles.

The leaves are compound and up to 5 cm long, oval, small in size. There are no thorns on the peduncles. Flowers can have a diameter from 3 to 7 cm and are arranged singly. Flowering begins in early summer. Leading botanical description varieties, you need to talk about the characteristics of the fruit. They are orange or red, fleshy, and have an elongated shape. Fruit ripening occurs at the end of summer. A notable feature of the variety is the ability to form large quantity offspring.

All types of rose hips differ in value in one way or another. But cinnamon rose hips are characterized by the highest content of valuable substances. It is otherwise called May. For every 100 g of fresh fruit, it contains from 900 to 1250 mg of vitamin C. The main acids are citric and regular. Tannins, carotene and B vitamins are present here. Blue rose hips contain slightly fewer vitamins. The same can be said about the rosehip varieties Marre and Yundzilla.

These varieties have elongated and straight sepals. They are visible on the bushes until the fruits ripen, and are long. In other varieties of rose hips, they are bent and short, tightly adjacent to the fruit.

Wrinkled Rose

Otherwise known as Rosa Rugosa. Grows on Far East. It can be found in Kamchatka and Kuril Islands. Known for its resistance to low temperatures. Accordingly, this crop can be planted even outside the Arctic Circle. Lack of susceptibility to powdery mildew adds additional benefits.

Shows itself well both alone and in groups of ornamental plants. This crop can turn into an excellent decoration for the garden. It gets its name from its wrinkled leaves. Growth is usually carried out in compact bushes that produce dense branches. The crown reaches a height of 2 m and has a round shape. Contains a large number of thorns. Due to the dark green foliage, it retains its decorative effect even beyond the budding period.

In the cold season it does not require shelter and is well preserved. But despite this, he prefers to land in sunny places. Most often, rose hips are purple or crimson in color. There are varieties Agnes with yellow flowers, Kaiserin des Nordens, which has double flowers, the color of carmine. There are varieties with silver-pink and white buds.

The variety Pink Grotendorst deserves special attention. Its flowers are somewhat reminiscent of carnation buds. This is ensured by the jagged edges of the bud, which are distinguished by their terry, pink tint with a mother-of-pearl shimmer. It is better to place the bushes close to the resting place so that you can fully enjoy their beautiful view.

The wrinkled rose has large flowers, reaching a diameter of 8 to 10 cm. They have a pleasant aroma. The buds take quite a long time to form. Bright red fruits act as a good decorative frame for the bush. They are somewhat shaped like apples. You can eat them. This rose hip is rich in carotene and vitamin C. A rose (rose hip) should be replanted only if such a measure is really justified.

The petals are also used to make jelly and jam. As for cosmetic purposes, it can be used to produce rose water and oil. It is not recommended to use it as a rootstock. Gardeners rarely do this, as a large number of wild shoots may form. Thanks to its beauty and endurance, the wrinkled rose received widespread in our country.

Pruning rose hips allows you to get rid of excessive growth and dried branches. To understand how to trim rose hips correctly, you need to examine appearance bush. Pruning rose hips requires great care so as not to harm the plant as a whole.

Pruning is carried out at a height of 10 to 15 cm from the ground level. In this case, several buds are left on each branch. To form second-order branches, the tops of the main shoots are pinched after they grow to 70 cm.

Rose hips can be found throughout Europe. The flowers are standard, simple in shape or semi-double. Most often there is a pink tint, but there are other types of coloring. Flowering of such park roses starts at the end of June and lasts 14 days. The leaves give off an apple scent. They are small and sit on straight bushes with a lot of thorns.

Fritz Nobis is a product of French selection. The petals have a pleasant salmon hue. The leaves are grayish-green. The shoots are located on spreading bushes and grow up to 2 m.

Another variety, the blue rose, has simple buds of white or pink shade. The leaves are slightly red and the underside comes in two colors. The bush can grow up to 3 meters. This variety is resistant to low temperatures and lack of moisture, heat. Well suited for hedges and creating accents in various compositions.















Proper pruning shapes the bush in such a way that each branch has enough light and air for normal fruiting. Autumn pruning frees the bush from fruit-bearing shoots and relieves the plant from the need to feed them during the dormant period. However, if for some reason you were unable to prune in October or November, reschedule it for late winter or early spring - from late January to early April, when the snow has melted and the air temperature has risen to at least -8 ºC, will remain at this level for several days. Avoid pruning in cooler temperatures or on a day when it is snowing or raining, and try to complete the process by the time the bushes begin to bud.

Sanitary pruning is carried out when the need arises, regardless of the time of year.

Pruning berry bushes in winter

Contrary to the claims of many gardeners, pruning in February, if done in necessary conditions and in compliance with the rules developed for this procedure, does not lead to negative consequences, just like pruning in March. As you know, the onset of sap flow accelerates the healing of wounds and cuts, especially since at this time there are no leaves or flowers on the bushes, and all the plants’ energy goes into healing the damage caused by pruning. There is practically no other work in the garden in winter, so why not relieve yourself of a busy spring schedule, by pruning trees and shrubs at the end of winter?

Wait for the desired temperature and snow melting, since in some cases you need to trim the branches of the bush to the very surface of the soil, and proceed to sanitary pruning: remove frozen, mutilated, broken, dried branches, diseased and pest-affected branches, as well as tops and shoots from the bushes. The shoots are removed at the root, and when pruning mature branches, stumps must be left to prevent the tissue from freezing at the cut site. These stumps can be removed in the spring. Pruning of bushes is carried out with pruning shears and a garden saw.

Pruning fruit bushes in spring

In addition to sanitary pruning, which maintains the health of the bush, formative or rejuvenating pruning may be necessary. The best time for pruning to form a bush is autumn, but you can do this work in the spring, just before the start of sap flow. Each species has its own plant formation scheme, and we will briefly remind you how to prune berry bushes, the most popular in amateur gardening.

Pruning raspberries in spring

Raspberry varieties that bear fruit once per season are pruned as follows:

  • two-year-old branches that will no longer bear fruit are cut to the ground;
  • Of the annual shoots, 10-12 of the most developed ones are left, the rest are removed;
  • all weak shoots are cut out;
  • the tops of the shoots remaining after pruning are shortened to 2.2-2.5 m, and if the bush is not tall, then the tops are cut by 10-15 cm.

Remontant raspberry bushes are cut off completely at the root, and it is better to do this in the fall.

Pruning black currants in spring

Pruning blackcurrant branches is somewhat more difficult than pruning raspberries, since the bush consists of branches different ages, and each branch can actively bear fruit for up to five years. Blackcurrants are trimmed according to this pattern:

  • the number of old branches cut out annually should be equal to the number of new branches left from the basal shoots: 3-5 old branches are cut out, they should be replaced by 3-5 new branches;
  • Every year it is necessary to cut out those branches whose age has reached five years;
  • When removing old and unnecessary new branches, make sure that the remaining branches do not interfere with each other, do not cross, do not lie on the ground and are conveniently located.

Pruning red and white currants in spring

Red currant branches can bear fruit for 7-8 years, but the main harvest is formed on branches aged from 2 to 5 years. It is necessary to ensure that on a bush formed from 12-15 branches there are branches of different ages, otherwise a year may come when all the branches will have to be cut out. Of the new shoots, 3-4 of the most developed ones are left annually to replace the removed seven-year-old branches.

Pruning gooseberries in autumn

Gooseberry bushes are formed in almost the same way as currant bushes: the bush should have 15-20 branches of different ages. The main harvest comes from branches aged from four to seven years, so mainly those shoots that have reached the age of seven, as well as weak and extra shoots of the first year, are cut out. Do not shorten those annual shoots that you decide to leave - this will reduce the yield of the bush.

Pruning honeysuckle in spring

Of all garden shrubs, honeysuckle is the most light-loving, and therefore it requires mandatory annual pruning. In the first years, remove only strong tops and root shoots, but as soon as the bush gains volume, start thinning the crown. Try to keep an adult bush in the following parameters: height - 2-2.5 m, diameter - from 1.5 to 2.5 m. Short weak shoots, branches that have stopped growing, old, thickening and cross-growing branches must be pruned. Pruning old branches can noticeably rejuvenate the bush, and if aging has affected most of the crown, cut the entire plant to the base and form a new bush from the root shoots.

Pruning rose hips in spring

Rose hips are not very popular in summer cottages, which is a pity. Its bush attracts the eye with its beauty and nobility, and the buds, leaves, fruits and even roots have healing powers that humanity has used since time immemorial. The rosehip reaches a height of 1 to 3 m; its bushes can be either compact or spreading. Rosehip is light-loving and picky about soil composition. After planting, the rosehip seedling is pruned short, leaving 2-3 buds on each branch, after which the plant is freed from pruning for two years. In the third year, sanitary pruning of the bush is carried out, removing root shoots, weak ones lying on the ground, broken and extra branches, and strong ones are pruned at a height of 20 cm. When the newly grown shoots reach a length of 70 cm, their tops are pinched. Starting next year, it will be necessary to normalize the number of branches, of which there should be about 20 in total. In the future, branches older than 5 years will be cut out, and new shoots will be formed to replace them from strong growth.

Pruning chokeberry in spring

By its nature, chokeberry is a typical shrub, although it is often formed into a tree. But it’s not so difficult to regulate the number of branches in a bush and not force the plant, turning the bush into a tree. After planting, cut off all branches of the seedling at a height of 10-20 cm, and leave 3-5 strong shoots from the basal shoots that appear next year, cutting them so that they are approximately the same length as the branches of the bush. Cut the rest of the growth to the ground. Next year, add 3-4 more basal shoots to the bush. With this number of branches you can finish the formation - for a chokeberry bush it is quite enough to have about 10 branches.

When the bush is formed, make sure that sunlight can penetrate into the very depths of the crown, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve normal branching and the formation of flower buds in the chokeberry. The most productive chokeberry branches are 8-10 years old, so plan pruning based on this, and prepare strong root shoots in advance to replace old branches. Every year you will have to replace only 2-3 old branches.

Pruning ornamental shrubs

There are two types of pruning of ornamental shrubs - regular, which forms correct crown and stimulates abundant flowering, and rejuvenating, prolonging the life of the plant. The timing and nature of pruning depend on the type of shrub. In relation to pruning ornamental shrubs are divided into three groups:

  • deciduous shrubs growing not from the base of the bush, but along the perimeter of the crown - common barberry, chaenomeles, bladderwort, flowering turf, flowering dogwood, cotoneaster, magnolia, euonymus, mackerel, daphne, cherry laurel, Syrian hibiscus, viburnum, serviceberry and others;
  • deciduous shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots in spring or early summer - spring-flowering spirea, large-leaved hydrangea, weigela, forsythia, deutzia, Japanese keria, tamarix, colquitzia, jasmine, mock orange, blood-red currant, lilac and others;
  • deciduous shrubs blooming on the shoots of the current year - paniculata and tree hydrangea, David's buddleia, willow spirea, Japanese, Boumalda and Douglas.

Plants of the first group They need minimal sanitary pruning in early spring, before sap flow begins - weakened, diseased shoots growing inside the crown and crossing shoots are removed. Sometimes living shoots are slightly shortened to make the bushes more decorative.

Shrubs of the second group pruned immediately after flowering - the faded shoots are shortened by about a third so that the plants grow new ones. Try not to cut the shoots at the same height every year, otherwise, over time, thick growths will form on them, due to which the plant cannot develop new shoots. If you begin to form the crown of a shrub of the second group in the spring, you can remove all future flowers, since the flower buds of these plants form on last year’s shoots. When rejuvenating pruning, all shoots are cut at soil level.

Some early flowering plants the second group needs radical pruning after flowering - willow, gorse, three-lobed almond. They need to be pruned to strong new shoots or to the ground, and next year they will bloom more luxuriantly than before.

The third group is represented by late-flowering shrubs that form flowers in summer or autumn on the shoots of the current year, so pruning them in early spring is quite justified. And the more the bushes are pruned, the more abundant their flowering will subsequently be. Such pruning is not carried out annually, but once every three to four years, but between heavy prunings, from time to time, still remove old branches and shorten the shoots by required height to make the bushes look neat.

For any type of pruning, you may need a garden saw, a lopper, a pruning shear with two blades, a garden knife for trimming annual growth, a hedge trimmer for performing formative pruning and pruning hedges, a ladder, garden pitcher or rannet paste. All instruments must be sharp and sterile. A day after pruning, treat sections with a diameter greater than 7 mm with garden varnish or wound-healing paste.