DIY plywood boat patterns. DIY plywood boat drawing: patterns of motor boats for self-building, manufacturing, video review. Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

A boat on a farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is a basic necessity, and in populated areas, the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this possible at all, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” ​​Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology makes it possible to use them more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

1. A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
2. A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
3. The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
4. Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
5. Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
6. The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and, with an adult and moderately developed assistant, load it for transportation;
4. The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
6. The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top rack passenger car.

For the entire set of qualities, except for the price of materials, optimal choice for my first vessel I will have a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Planing ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Boats made of foam plastic, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and rectangular planks, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boats.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal home-made vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the bridge of the catamaran (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you like, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to being carried away by currents or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying them on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for soft plastic boat will cost much more than the best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the reservoir is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: if you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (item 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small, quiet inland waters, the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. Additional benefit for these sailing conditions, skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the vessel off course and trying to capsize.

In slightly more difficult sailing conditions, with waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes it easier for the dinghy to ride the wave, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and the dinghy’s own weight is almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then you should choose a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning out its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the next rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may appear to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical heel for undecked ships will be that at which the ship scoops broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of ​​the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the design of the boat does not provide for sailing equipment, do not install a “homemade boat”. As a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances, you can construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the central axis shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: do not experiment with sails without proper knowledge of seamanship! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting off the wings of an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drills along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel is capable of sailing. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

• The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the performance of the vessel: using the trapezoidal method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined by frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-treatment. To make a wooden boat last as long as possible, wood materials First you need to soak it generously with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear parts will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: Lately, quite a lot of amateurs have been assembling boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts made of extruded polystyrene foam EPS – effective way increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
3. If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
4. Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
6. When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., which is necessary for the project;
9. They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat, larger than a stitched one, with a capacity of single-curvature contours, begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much of the rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety is: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Perhaps more: installation clamps of some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkable

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite simple to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam plastic blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now there are autonomous LED lamps the size of a child's fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the ship can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a welded Kurbatov anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). ingot 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Her distinctive feature extremely cheap: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On to the next rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, so to save the rower’s muscular effort great value acquire the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed a design for a dory sailing boat made of plywood, see figure; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with short, steep “angry” waves (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, Marquis’s Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... wooden parts sets are prestressed during assembly.

On to the next Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Because a dory can sail at quite strong wind, it is possible to take one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!

Probably every fishing enthusiast has at least once thought about how to make a homemade boat. This is not an easy task, but it is still possible to make such a watercraft.

Moreover, you don’t have to be an engineer; all that is required of you is a few hours of free time. You will learn how homemade plywood boats are made from our article today.

Manufacturing difficulties

Is it really difficult to make such a design with a minimum set of tools? As practice shows, even with such equipment, homemade inflatable boat(or plywood) is done easily in 3-4 hours. Due to the fact that all this work requires a minimum of time, you can make a boat even under open air. Well, if the weather changes, you can always cover it with a tarpaulin or a piece of plastic film.

Why are they good?

Firstly, plywood is light, durable and quite warm material. It is almost impossible to kill such a boat, and it does not weigh too much. Secondly, unlike rubber analogues, the space in a plywood boat is enough for several people (at the same time, inside, between the seats, you can fit all the necessary fishing gear). In store versions free space is sorely lacking.

Thirdly, being in a wooden boat, you don’t feel any discomfort at all.

Preparation of materials

The main material from which homemade boats are made is plywood. There are no difficulties in finding it on the market. Plywood is perhaps the most affordable and cheap material for such work. And it’s very convenient to work with her.

Let's get down to business

First of all, I would like to note that any work related to self-production any means (be it a tractor or something else, it doesn’t matter) must be carried out clearly according to a given scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade boats on hand. In some cases, drawings can be replaced with a sketch drawing.

So, how are they made? To assemble the body, you will need to prepare dry boards 2.5 centimeters thick and a 6 mm sheet of plywood. The width of the boards for the stern and sides should be 30.5 centimeters. This is the most optimal sizes for a fishing boat. All other elements that are inside the structure (seats and spacers) are made from boards 2.5 centimeters wide. Moreover, the length of these parts is 86.4 centimeters. It must be taken into account that the dimensions of all these elements must be precisely maintained, since they are all attached to the boat hull only with self-tapping screws.

The manufacture of all parts and elements of this design does not cause any difficulties or difficulties. This is due to their simple geometric shape.

During the work special attention Pay attention to adjusting the mating surfaces and trimming the boat. All joining edges must be carefully adjusted and have minimal gaps along their entire length. Either tin-plated or galvanized self-tapping screws are used as fastening elements. As for the dimensions of these fasteners, depending on the place of application, they can be as follows:

The bottom of the boat is made of a sheet of plywood 6 millimeters thick. But, since this part of the boat will be constantly exposed to water, to make the boat waterproof, additionally treat the joints of the hull and the bottom with “VIAM-B/3” glue and secure it with screws around the entire perimeter. If there is no such tool (“VIAM-B/3”), it is quite suitable as an alternative oil paint. Although it does not have good adhesive properties and characteristics, it nevertheless provides a durable and waterproof coating. It is worth noting that the distance between the screws should be about 4 centimeters. External seams should be carefully taped with canvas or percale using AK-20. In order not to sink the bottom of the boat, a slatted grid is installed between the spacers (the cross section of the slats is 5x2 centimeters).

The resulting liquid should be diluted with clean drying oil. In this case, the calculation is made so that the boat can be painted 2-3 more times. Liquid paint has better properties; it spreads more easily, and therefore gives a more durable and even coating. When applying this product to the boat, wide soft brushes are used.

Some enthusiasts use nitro paints based on their high quality finish. However, we do not recommend using them for such boats, since they do not provide the necessary durability to the wood (accordingly, the structure becomes less durable and unsuitable for use every year).

Important points

If homemade motor boats are made, then an additional drawing of special mounts for an electric or gasoline engine is made. However, a simpler and cheaper option would be to use regular oars. They are often made from 35mm birch boards. In this case, a spike with a handle is installed at the end of the spindle, and brass linings are applied to the edge of the blade. Next, the oar is primed and painted.

And finally, some statistics. As practice shows, average term The service life of plywood boats is about 15-20 years. Neither plastic nor even their rubber competitors can boast of such durability.

Not every fisherman can buy a watercraft, because the products are sold at high prices. And also not all models may meet certain buyer needs. The most budget models are rowing or motor rubber boats, but, as a rule, they are unreliable, and if damaged during fishing, an unpleasant situation will occur. Meanwhile, fishermen and swimmers increasingly began to make homemade boats with their own hands from wood or plywood.

Features of a homemade watercraft

From modern building materials you can build a boat for 2-3 people. Homemade fishing boats can be equipped with oars or a motor. Some people install a sail on the boat. Installing a motor on a watercraft is not difficult, but you need to understand that if you constantly visit small lakes or ponds, then having a motor will not be practical.

To make a boat with your own hands, craftsmen mainly use bars for the frame and plywood for covering the structure. If you are a fan of swimming in large bodies of water, then it is quite possible to build a full-fledged boat with a roof. This will also require plywood, timber and galvanized metal. To increase the service life of the boat, treat the wood with antiseptic agents and paint it.

The boat is equipped with a motor if the vessel was made with high quality. Because when swimming at a significant speed, the structure may fall apart. However, a wooden boat is much better than inflatable models. Fishermen often swim into difficult places with snags, and for a rubber craft this can result in snagging on branches and breaking the hull.

Tools and materials

First, find a large room to work in, such as a garage. Secondly, if you work in winter, the room must be heated. Also, there should not be a high concentration of moisture in the room, otherwise the plywood will not dry out, but rot. As a rule, coloring is done outdoors. To make homemade plywood boats for fishing, use the following tools and materials:

The most expensive things are plywood and timber, the rest costs much less. Electrical equipment can be borrowed from neighbors.

Parameters and details for the product

A rowing craft can be built at your discretion and to your own size. But according to the technology for building a boat with your own hands, it will be made of plywood 5 mm thick, so it is recommended to use the following parameters:

• total width not less than 110 cm;
• the length from beginning to end of the structure is 450 cm;
• depth is 50 cm.

All structural parts are attached to the keel - this is the basic key element. The back of the boat is called the sternpost, and the bow is called the stem. Due to these elements, longitudinal rigidity is enhanced. These basic pieces can be made from solid wood using a jigsaw. And the cut out parts are connected using glue or self-tapping screws. Do not fasten parts with nails; this is an unreliable method.

The frames are transverse load-bearing elements designs, which form the hull of the boat. By connecting the sternpost, stem and frames, the sides of the craft are formed. At the final stage, the frame of the vessel is sheathed with plywood. Interior The product is equipped with a sling - this is especially true for the bottom, which should be protected as much as possible.

Motor designs

The layout of a motor vessel is practically no different from rowing and sailing models. The only thing is the back of the boat, on which the propeller motor is attached. This part of the vessel must be strong and reliable so that the motor does not become detached from the structure during sailing. Craftsmen recommend using a transom board for a boat motor.

Modernized vessels are equipped with additional elements - stringers, side stringers, cockpit and deck stringers. In order for the boat to be unsinkable and stable, it is necessary to create a layer between outside frame and inner side. This void is filled with polyurethane foam. If the vessel capsizes, it will not flood or sink to the bottom. Therefore, experts strongly recommend using such a trick.

Creating Drawings

Drawings are an integral part of the work. Because the whole process always begins with well-designed diagrams intended for self-construction. If it’s difficult for you to draw sketches or you don’t want to, use ready-made diagrams, which are abundant on the Internet. When drawing up drawings, be as careful as possible and do not miss any detail. Make several sketches of the future boat according to the following rules:

The main task: draw all the necessary details and indicate their dimensions. The third drawing is a sketch. On it you must draw appearance boats, so that you have an idea of ​​what kind of watercraft you will get at the end.

Making a template

So, the drawings for the pattern of a plywood boat have been drawn up with your own hands and now you will have to make a template, which is designed to transfer the shape of the bottom onto the plywood. You will need to find sheets of cardboard and staple them together. Then, armed with drawings, you should draw the shape of the workpiece on paper. Then cut off all excess and attach the made template to the sheets of plywood and trace it with a pencil or pen.

If the boat is made from solid wood, then you need to copy the design not against the direction of the fibers, but along the fibers. In this case, possible defects can be avoided. For plywood sheets the direction of the fibers is random. Because this material is made by pressing wood chips. In simple terms: The bottom can be marked in any direction. But the template is mainly intended if you are going to build a punt boat.

Sequence of work

As in any other business, the entire work process is carried out in stages. A boat is no exception: to make a high-quality design, you will have to follow certain steps. How to make a boat out of wood - technological steps:

As you can see, the work process is labor-intensive, but it's worth it.

Step by step assembly

Prepare all material and tools. Check that all electrical equipment is working properly. Also, when working with wood, you must have protective equipment: gloves and glasses. Be careful when cutting material with a circular saw.

Frame installation

First of all, cut the bars for the sides - futox. Then other bars are prepared, which will later form the sides of the vessel and bottom part. The bottom can be made using ship building technology, that is, a rounded triangular shape, you can also build a regular punt. Then prepare the bars for the bow and stern.

In the next step you need to make the nose. Take some spacers and two long beams. They must be connected at one end with screws. Then a block is placed on the other side - this is the back of the boat. The part is also attached with screws. Then, in the middle of the back block, attach another block in a vertical position.

The completed boat frame needs to be shaped like a bullet. Take a couple of spacers and secure them crosswise near the bow. Then the frame is turned over with the block up, which was fixed on the backdrop, and lay the axial block, which will serve as a supporting part for the futoxes - stiffening ribs.

To do this, fasten one edge to the block on the back - its height will be 50 cm, and place the other edge of the block for the bottom at the nose of the frame. Now screw two short beams to the sidewalls and the central beam, stepping back from the edge by about 70-100 cm. You need to bend the fixed edge of the beam so that it turns out to be arched. Then it must be screwed to the nose of the frame.

Fastening the stiffeners

So, the frame is made and now you need to install the stiffeners. For these purposes, you will have to use spacers; one spacer is installed for each pair of stiffeners. This is necessary so that the sidewalls are round in shape. As a rule, the bars are used with small diameters, capable of bending without special reinforcements.

The work starts from the stern. Screw the first block to the side, and then the second to the other side of the future boat. Now a spacer is installed between them and two ribs are fixed to the central beam. Try to bend the material carefully, otherwise a break may occur.

The stiffening ribs should be installed in increments of 30 cm. When you reach the bow of the boat, do not remove the installed spacers yet. Measure the depth of the boat to 20 cm. Place marks on two sides. You need to screw two long beams along the sidewalls, which will more firmly connect the stiffening ribs. Then install several spacers between the two along the passing parts. Remove the remaining spacers.

Now you need to strengthen all the joints. Take advantage metal corners and self-tapping screws. In the bow part, step back 50 cm from the edge and screw the jumper. You also need to strengthen the nose and drill a hole at the very edge with a drill, and then tighten the structure with a bolt and nut. After this, we can assume that the skeleton of the ship is ready.

Covering the frame with plywood

In this step, turn the boat upside down and begin sheathing the sides. It is necessary that the applied material is completely adjacent to the stiffeners. The plywood is secured with self-tapping screws. There should be enough material to reach from the top of the sidewall to the bottom of the boat.

As a rule, sheets are produced in sizes of 150 cm, so there will be at least two joints on the boat. The very bottom edge of the boat will look like a rounded triangle. A strip of zinc at least 50 cm wide will have to be secured along the entire length.

After the outer skin, take several cylinders polyurethane foam. You need to foam the layer to the width of the bar. Foam in all places and leave no voids. Then make the inner lining. To prevent the boat from being too heavy, use chipboard sheets for the interior lining - they are thinner and lighter than plywood.

Taping joints and painting

At the end, you will have to tape all the joints of the outer casing. The seams are filled until the glue begins to flow out. For a better effect, apply a layer to the joints silicone sealant. This will protect the structure from water penetration.

On last stage The watercraft is painted with water-repellent paint. But before that, check the case for chips and cracks. If there are such defects, they need to be covered with putty. Some craftsmen cover the entire body with fiberglass and then paint it. A primary primer layer and a secondary color layer are applied.

Now the motor is installed and all you have to do is wait until the structure is completely dry, after which you can test the homemade product by sailing it around the lake. If you find any problems, fix them.

Attention, TODAY only!

According to the proverb “Prepare a sleigh in summer and a cart in winter,” it’s a good idea to think about building a good and reliable boat with your own hands. We present to your attention a master class on how to build a small practical boat with your own hands from ONE standard sheet waterproof plywood. Moreover, the design is not some kind of plywood or wooden punt, but a boat with correct contours that improve its seaworthiness and course stability. The boat project was implemented, the boat was manufactured, tested and showed decent seaworthiness for its size. There is a drawing of the boat. The boat is steered and propelled by a kayak-type oar. Transporting a homemade boat does not cause any problems; this boat does not require a trailer :).

How to make a boat out of plywood with your own hands

As shown in the video, to make a homemade boat you need to have some experience in carpentry. List of basic tools: jigsaw, screwdriver, hand router, grinder, set of clamps. Materials for making a boat - a sheet of waterproof plywood 4-6mm thick and 2500x1250 mm in size, planed boards ~25-40 mm thick, slats, brass nails, self-tapping screws, epoxy resin, varnish. The main dimensions of the future boat are as follows: boat length 3480 mm, boat width 747 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for building a plywood boat

1. Transfer the contours of the pattern to a sheet of plywood, this is easy to do according to the ““ pattern.

Cutting contours

2. Use a jigsaw to cut a sheet of plywood into four pieces. We cut carefully with a jigsaw finishing file.

3. We fold the symmetrical sheets in pairs and check the size matches, if necessary, eliminate inaccuracies.

Sheets connected

4. We connect the four hull blanks in pairs, forming halves of the bottom and sides. We connect using an overhead strip, brass nails and epoxy resin. The strips must be in the inside of the body. We carry out the connection with full responsibility - forever.

5. Further work will resemble the work of a surgeon. We sew all seams with wire in increments of 300-350 mm. To do this, in the place of each stitch, we drill two holes at a distance of 20 - 30 mm from the edge of the sheet. Insert the wire staple and twist the ends until the sheets of plywood are joined at the seam. Using spacers between the sides we give the desired shape to the boat hull. A narrow hull will reduce the boat's carrying capacity. A hull that is too wide will reduce the boat's stability on course. It is recommended to make the width of the housing as in the drawing.

6. Manufacturing of frames. Two frames must be made at a location with a step of 300 mm from the middle of the boat in each direction. There will be nine frames in total. You will also need four sheet connecting elements at the bow and 2-3 elements at the stern of the boat (these elements form the stern and stem of the boat). To obtain even cuts when preparing frames, it is better to use a circular saw.

7. The frames are installed on the bottom using self-tapping screws. Do not glue the frames!

8. Turn the boat hull over and use a manual milling machine with a 6-12 mm cutter we go along the seam connecting the hull halves from bow to stern. Depth of routing to bottom edge of plywood. It is clear that the result will be an ideal gap with smooth and parallel cuts for high-quality gluing of the body halves. See photo.

9. Sequentially removing the frames, we tighten the halves of the body and install the frames on the pulled sheets, using the same holes for screws in the plywood for fastening. As a result, the seam will be very tight.

Project, drawings, sketches and description of manufacturing technology
boats made from one sheet of plywood

I present to your attention project, sketches and description of the technology for making a boat from a single sheet of plywood. The design and technology were developed by me based on the experience of building and operating more than 50 similar boats. If you do as written, avoiding long smoke breaks, then you can build this boat in two weeks, or even faster. In general, this is a fishing boat for the “not rich Pinocchio”, who also does not have the experience of a master carpenter for which his dad Carlo was famous. The cost of basic materials (a sheet of plywood measuring 3x1.5 m; slats, paint and epoxy) was only 625 rubles.

Basic materials needed to build a boat:

• coin (no matter what denomination or what country);
• waterproof plywood brand FSF - 1 sheet measuring 1500x3000 mm and thickness 4 mm;
• slats for sides: 3-meter with a section of 10x40 mm - 4 pieces;
• meter section 25x50 mm - 2 pieces;
• slats for the bottom: 2.5-meter with a section of 20x40...50 mm - 2 pieces;
• 90-centimeter sections 10x40 mm - 6 pieces;
• boards: semi-bulkhead - stop for a can (dimensions 1200x125x15 mm) - 1 piece;
• jar (dimensions 1200x250x25 mm) - 1 piece;
• transom trim (dimensions 1000x140x20 mm) - 1 piece;
• support for the rower's feet (dimensions 1000x50x25 mm) - 1 piece;
• epoxy glue - 5 kg;
• dye;
• fiberglass - 3 m (with a width of 0.9 m);
• copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, nails, screws.

Tools: saw, drill with drills, clamps, plane, emery cloth.

P.S. It is necessary to purchase oarlocks (Fig. 1). I make these myself from stainless steel. So far there have been no complaints about their quality.

Technology for building a boat from one sheet of plywood

I want to say right away that we will build a boat with a flat bottom. This design is simpler and more reliable.

1. Take a sheet of plywood and mark the bilge line and part of the transom of one starboard side according to the sketch using a strip (line ABC in Fig. 2). You can hammer nails into the “reference” points. The dimensions are given in millimeters out of habit; they could also be given in centimeters. Yes, and dimensional accuracy is not particularly needed here. A little more or less... The main thing is that the bottom pattern is symmetrical.

2. We cut out part of the transom and the right cheekbone along line ABC (see Fig. 2).

3. We place the resulting trimmed part (in Fig. 2 - the right side) on the left side, fasten the latter there with clamps or nails so that it does not move, and with its help, as if using a template, we mark the bottom separately and the transom separately. In this case, the symmetry of the bottom and transom will be fully observed. Note that as a result of the cutting operations carried out, we were left with two pieces from the plywood sheet, which will be used to make the sides, and the transom.

4. Along the edge of the stern, bottom and the corresponding edge of the transom, we drill holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm every 150 mm.

5. We fasten the transom to the bottom with wire (using holes).

6. Place the bottom on a stool and three chairs (Fig. 3). Using classical techniques and classical literature (“Queen Margot”, “War and Peace”) we create the required bottom deflection of 100 mm and the desired transom inclination. (It is good to place slats under the bottom, which will then go on the sides, especially if the plywood is 4 mm thick).

7. On one of the remaining pieces of plywood we mark the contours of the side, taking into account the inclination of the transom. To do this, the blank for the side is pressed against the cheekbone of the bottom. For convenience, you can drill holes in the top of the transom and screw the workpiece to it with wire, but still, to mark the side, you will need an assistant who will hold the bow of the workpiece of the future side, and draw with a pencil the remaining line of contact between the workpiece and the bottom and the stem line with a pencil.

8. We cut out the side, and then, using it as a template, we cut out the other side. We remove the resulting irregularities with a plane or, better yet, with a coarser piece of sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. They try to make the sides as identical as possible.

9. Along the edges of the bottom and the corresponding edges of the sides, drill holes with a pitch of 150 mm, coat the boat with an anti-rotting liquid, for example, “Senezh”, which will significantly increase the service life of the boat, especially if the plywood is birch, and sew the boat together copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm. We form the twists from the outside. Please note that when docking with the bottom, the side is placed on the bottom. The transom is also placed on the bottom and placed inside the sides.

10. We upset and tap the wire of the paper clips with a hammer.

11. We insert the can and the bulkhead, temporarily securing them with screws, and glue the strips along the sides. Short strips, in the middle of which there will be holes for oarlocks, are pre-cut on the side and glued between the inner side rail and the plywood side. The center of the hole for the oarlocks is 300 mm away from the can (seat). We glue the brackets (structural elements of the ship's hull for connecting individual parts of the hull, located at an angle to one another), temporarily fixing them with clamps, nails or screws on the “Flies”. “Fly” or “Crusk” is a wooden or plywood washer of any shape for a temporary nail (screw) to make it easier to remove later.

12. We glue the joints of the bottom and sides from the inside with fiberglass in three layers. In this case, the width of the inner strip is 25 mm, the middle one is 40 mm, and the outer (top) strip is 50 mm. Before gluing these joints on the outside, the paper clips should be bitten off. Using a plane and sandpaper, we smooth out the unevenness and round the outside of the cheekbone. We drill holes in the brackets so that an anchor rope, mooring line, fish tank, etc. can be tied to the ends. We finally glue the can, and attach a coin “for good luck” to the bottom with glue. Although I don’t believe in omens, I noticed that the “coin” helps even those who don’t believe it. We glue the stop and strips under the legs and on the bottom to protect the paint and, accordingly, the plywood from scuffs and getting wet. We place these strips across the inside of the body, and along the outside.

13. Cut and glue the board onto the transom.

14. In all the holes left from the “temporary” screws and nails, we hammer dowels (wooden nails) lubricated with epoxy. When the epoxy has hardened, the excess is cut off, and the location of the dowel is puttied and cleaned. It is better to paint the boat with pentaphthalic paint for external surfaces. Just check if the anti-rot liquid used is compatible with this paint. In general, it is useful to read what is written on the paint can.

15. The distance from the edge of the can to the hole for the oarlock, as already mentioned, is 30 cm. We drill a hole with a diameter of 17 mm in a thick rail. If you don’t have a drill with a diameter of 17 mm, then you can drill a hole of a smaller diameter, and then widen it with some suitable piece of hardware. A stainless steel or brass tube of suitable diameter (aluminum will quickly wear off, iron will rust) approximately 70 mm long with a wall thickness of at least 1.5 mm is inserted into the resulting hole. Before inserting the tube into the hole, it is wrapped with fiberglass soaked in epoxy. The top of the tube is recessed flush with the side so that the fishing line or net does not cling to it. If the tube is larger in diameter than necessary, the inner rail will have to be thicker. It is desirable that these tubes be the only metal parts in the entire structure (not counting, of course, paper clips). You can raise the subkey higher with the help of a “pillow” - a block 30...40 mm thick, which will have to be glued to the gunwale and secured with dowels. Then the tube should be taken in a straight line. It will be more convenient to row, but those who use nets claim that such a “cushion” gets in the way.

Oars. There are many options for making oars. They are made from solid boards, slats, and pipes. English boatbuilders recommend assembling an oar spindle from 14 ash slats grown in an open area of ​​the southern slope, and only slats sawn from the northern part of the trunk are suitable! I got a result that satisfied me by making a spindle and oar handle from a 2-meter beam with a section of 50x50 mm. True, the same beam, but glued from an inch board, turned out to be better. As a blade, I inserted plywood measuring 400x200 mm and 6 mm thick into the spindle slot. At the blade, the spindle is extended to a diameter of 35 mm. In front of the handle I left the section square. It is easier to control an oar if the center of gravity of the oar is closer to the oarlock. Sometimes lead is even put into the handles for this purpose. The paddle is 220 cm long, the blade is secured in the slot with glue and two homemade (made from wire with a diameter of 4 mm) aluminum rivets. Do not make oars shorter than 2 m, as it will be very difficult to row against the wind and current with such oars. You can buy oars, I came across oars with plastic blades in a store, but they cost 750 rubles, and the materials for the whole boat were only 625 rubles.

P.S. Don't forget to stick a coin.

What and why can be changed when building a boat

Bottom. If you swim not far, there are no waves on the pond, and every cm of sediment matters; the bottom can generally be made straight (without curvature). But on such a boat, the stern will begin to pull water along with it and rowing will be difficult. In this case, it is better to make the bottom of a 120 cm wide boat wider (about 1 m) with a transom width of 80 cm.

If you have to wade through the reeds, you can make the bottom narrower, but if its width is less than 70 cm, you won’t be able to shoot it and you will have to cast the spinning rod carefully. Especially if the water is cold!

For those interested build yourself a boat from one sheet of plywood, shaped like regular wooden keelboat, in Fig. Figure 4 shows the design of the “keel”, which is formed when the bottom is formed from two plywood blanks connected at an angle of 100°...120°.

Nose. If the bow of the boat is made rectangular, like the “optimist”, its carrying capacity and stability will increase. Three people can swim on it if you behave carefully. But rowing against the waves and wind, and also making your way through the reeds will be more difficult. You will also need to find a piece of plywood or a plank for the bow, which will also increase the weight of the boat.

Motor. If the transom is reinforced, you can also hang a 5 hp motor on it. s., but it is much safer to use a motor with a power of no more than 2 liters. With. or the Snetok electric motor, for example. But again, this is additional weight.

Feed can. A permanent stern bank, of course, will increase the weight of the boat, but after a long rowing and fishing, every extra gram of the boat seems like a kilogram. You can store some things in jars in the form of boxes, but remember, in order to get something from there, you need to get up from the jar, and this is not always safe.

Keel. A similar fin in the stern of the boat (its dimensions: length 1 m, height 7 cm, thickness 25 mm) will help, especially for an inexperienced rower, to keep the boat on course, but will be a hindrance when the boat moves away from the shore with a sandbank. Actually, I advise you to make a keel, but if it gets in the way, then the plane has already been invented, but I don’t advise you to make a keel with an axe.

Sail. For our boat, a sail, rudder and centerboard from an “optimist” are quite acceptable. The result will be a small “Ochakovskaya scow”.

However, when starting to modernize a boat, remember that any improvements and adaptations entail a whole load of problems and additional materials. Maybe it will be easier to find a design for another boat. On the website, for example, there are a lot of them, and. The advantages of this project: minimal cost and labor intensity, absence of special requirements for the qualifications of the craftsman, and very satisfactory (!) consumer qualities of the boat.

What and with what can be replaced when building a boat

Plywood of the FSF brand will completely replace plywood of the FK brand, only after gluing the latter will have to be oiled with hot linseed oil and painted over more thoroughly. There are examples where, with careful care, boats made of such plywood served for many years. If there is no coniferous wood for slats, then hardwood is also suitable for similar purposes. After all, you don’t have to go around Cape Horn, and in a few years, maybe even the birch slats won’t rot. Remember, they are made from soft aspen and poplar, and they last for many years. True, from hardwood it is better to take ash (slats) and linden (planks).

If there is no plywood the right size, one or another can be assembled from separate pieces. In this case, options are possible. For example, if the length of the bottom turns out to be shorter than required by only 20 cm, and your own weight is less than 90 kg, you can limit yourself to this length. I note that there is no need to tuck the edges of the plywood to be joined; it is easier and more reliable to simply glue them end-to-end. On the inside of the body at the joint you will need to put a strip 10...15 mm thick and 5...7 cm wide, and a strip of fiberglass on the outside. Next, the joint is sewn together with wire, and if there is no wire, you can use thread or twine (preferably synthetic). Holes for the wire can be drilled or made with a triangular awl, for example. And if you get holes with a diameter of not 1.6 mm, but larger, it’s okay, the epoxy will seal them up anyway.

What can you save on?

If there is a shortage of fiberglass, strips of it can be cut narrower, but still at least 3 cm wide, and two layers will allow you to reliably seal the joint. If necessary, epoxy will be completely replaced by any waterproof glue, but at the same time, at the bottom along the cheekbone, you will need to glue a strip with a cross-section of 30x25 mm and organize the fastening of the bottom with the sides on screws, placing the latter in increments of 100...150 mm. In this case, the rail is first glued to the side (with a protrusion of about 5 mm over the edge), and then “removed”, that is, it is pulled through to fit tightly to the bottom.

The slats can be attached to the sides without glue (only with nails or screws, after having coated them with paint). But then you will have to increase the cross-sectional dimensions of the slats by about a third, and the size of the booklets - by two times, cutting them out of boards at least 30 mm thick (it is known that a glued part works as one whole, and from knocked together parts, like collective farmers on a collective farm ( seems to be together, eh...).

Good sub-keys can also be made from a steel tube, which will need to be welded to the bar and screwed with M8 bolts. If there are tubes of too large a diameter, then inserts from plastic bottles. With such liners, the rowlocks do not creak, and it seems to me that even rowing becomes easier with them. The diameter of the oarlock axles should not be greater than 12 mm, and less than 10 mm is somehow not entirely practical.

Plywood (if the required format is not available), as already mentioned, can be joined without pressing, but simply end-to-end, placing one strip of fiberglass on the outside and a 20x50 mm strip on the inside.

Mistakes when building a boat

If your weight is 90 kg or more, the slats provided for in the project will not hold the bottom. It will bend downwards under your feet, and bend upwards with water (the draft has increased). The service life of the boat will decrease quite significantly, so in this case you will have to use thicker plywood for the bottom (at least 6 mm). Or you will need to glue transverse slats (flora) with a cross-section of at least 20x50 mm to the bottom. Such slats are glued with an edge in increments of 30 cm. Although one of my friends (net weight - 105 kg) two years ago, having taken a boat from me, vowed to go on a diet and lose weight to 80 kg. I lied, of course. However, the boat still serves, but he rarely fishes.

It is clear that when marking the bottom and sides, it is impossible to lay the rail - bend it equally, using only three starting points. Therefore, to prevent the boat from turning out crooked, follow the proposed cutting technology. Of course, a crooked boat will also float on the water, but...!

Using nails when building a boat is faster and cheaper, and with the help of screws the work can be done more accurately, if you do not forget to drill a hole for each screw and lubricate the screw itself with some kind of oil (even vegetable oil). Otherwise, you won’t be able to unscrew this screw later. When attaching slats to fix them in the desired position, it is advisable to use at least two clamps, for example, from a regular meat grinder. After all, it’s difficult to hold the slats with your hands properly. To fasten the planks, it is better to take larger screws 20...25 mm long with a semicircular head for a flat-blade screwdriver. And place “flies” or metal washers under them.

They begin to fasten the slats from any selected point, subsequently acting necessarily in one direction (it seems to me that it is more convenient to begin fastening the outer slats from the middle, and the inner slats from the transom). In this case, nails (screws) are installed in a row, since otherwise “bubbles” may result. And so that the boat does not turn out to be crooked, when attaching symmetrical slats to the sides, nails are hammered alternately into the slats on one side, then into the slats on the other.

You cannot “save” epoxy by applying too thin a layer of resin to the surfaces to be bonded. In this case, the epoxy will simply be absorbed into the wood and nothing will remain on the adhesive layer. Let me remind you that the approximate consumption of resin should be about 200 g per 3-meter strip or strip of fiberglass of the same length. Epoxy is applied with a brush or spatula; if, after compressing the parts to be glued, excess resin is squeezed out, then everything is correct. By the way, if you hurry, you can use the “extra” resin to glue the seams, apply it to the body instead of varnish, and fill the holes from knots. Based on my own experience, I can say that it is usually impossible to use more than 200 g of resin at a time (and this despite the fact that everything is ready for assembly). In a word, hurry up! Otherwise the resin will harden or boil. In the summer, in the sun, the resin in a jar hardens or even boils in a few minutes. Especially ED-16. On the standard packaging of epoxy it is written that you need to work with it with gloves, so don’t skimp on them. Well, if you don’t have gloves, then first lubricate your hands with oil, preferably vegetable oil, and sprinkle them with powder, for example, talcum powder or flour, so as not to stain the parts being glued with greasy hands. Or you can simply soap your hands and then let the soap dry. It is also better to wipe your hands from resin using vegetable oil and rags, and almost any solvents are suitable for this (acetone, 646, solvent). Gloves will also last longer if you soap them, dry them, and wash them with soap and water after work.

Your safety when building the boat and then!

Protect your face and eyes from the resin, and most importantly, from the hardener. As you know, there are different types of hardeners, but the ones I came across included cyanide. I hope everyone has heard about the properties of potassium cyanide.

Plywood, of course, does not sink, but its buoyancy reserve is minimal, and it is clear that a boat filled with water will not keep you afloat with its load. So it is useful to have pieces of foam or plastic bottles with a capacity of at least 10/7. It is best to place them under the can on the bow side in a bag that should be securely tied to the boat - lifeboats used to have sealed tanks (made of galvanized sheet) with air under the seats. In the stern it is good to have a foam plate 5...10 cm thick and 40x50 cm in size as a seat for a passenger, and also for buoyancy. And it’s convenient to put something on it that requires a dry place. You can make the jar lower, for example, 100 mm high, which will allow you to sit higher in good weather by placing the same foam plate on the jar (on which, by the way, it’s warmer to sit). To prevent the foam from crumbling, sew a bag for the stove from an old shirt. The bag with this plate must be tied to the jar. And it is more convenient to tie the stern plate to the footrest.

The distance from the edge of the can to the footrest is average and is 70 cm, but it is wiser to glue the footrest at a distance that is convenient for you.

Remember also that the boat is twice as heavy as you, and it is very easy to turn it over if handled carelessly. In fact, the boat is quite stable, so over time there is a feeling that it is not able to capsize at all. However, this is not at all true.

Fiberglass fabric is impregnated (oiled) at the manufacturer to prevent glass dust from flying off it. Therefore, in order to glue it more reliably, the fabric must be degreased, which I do using an electric hot plate with an open spiral. I warm the fabric until the smoke stops coming out. You can also burn fabric in the oven. electric stove, but there will be smoke in the kitchen! There is no need to anneal special shipbuilding fabric; the composition with which it is impregnated does not interfere with adhesion, but you are unlikely to get it. Just in case, I’ll tell you the brand of this fabric - T-11-GVS-9.