How to grow kiwi from homemade seeds. How to grow kiwi fruits on your windowsill yourself. How to get a good kiwi harvest at home

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Vladimir Marchenko 03/31/2015 | 7157

Have you ever thought that a rare fruit like kiwi might grow in your garden? This exotic plant quite capable of withstanding wintering in the temperate zone, not to mention more southern regions. Read our article about how to enjoy your own kiwi fruits.

To grow at least a few kiwi fruits, you need to strictly follow the recommendations outlined below. This is a rather whimsical plant, so it is not surprising that it grows mainly in countries with hot and dry climates.

Brief characteristics of kiwi fruits

When people talk about kiwi, they usually mean fruits belonging to the genus Actinidia, namely Actinidia chinensis, or Actinidia deliciosa.

Kiwi is a berry with green or yellow-green flesh.

The weight of an average kiwi fruit does not exceed 75 g, the fruit large varieties can weigh 100 g. Attempts to describe the taste of kiwi have always been unsuccessful. Usually they talk about a subtle combination of aromas of gooseberry, banana, apple, cherry, melon and pineapple. Kiwis are eaten raw, added to salads, pizza, and made into jams, jams and jellies.

On the territory of the CIS, experimentally obtained frost-resistant varieties kiwis that do not need shelter for the winter and can withstand frosts down to -30°C. Moreover, they bear fruit without additional measures to protect them.

What do you need to grow kiwi?

So, to grow kiwi you will need:

1) The actual kiwi fruit. It is possible that you will be able to get seeds in bags, but no one can guarantee that they will germinate. Therefore, it is better to choose a live fruit from the variety of varieties available. The growing method we offer is universal and suitable for most varieties.

2) A small container or container. They are needed during the first week of plant growth.

3) Paper towels, a plate and a clear plastic container will be needed to create a homemade mini greenhouse.

4) Soil mixture. In principle, any soil will do, but it’s better to take a mixture peat, perlite, vermiculite And organic fertilizers.

5) Containers/pots. The container must be with holes for drainage approximately 5-7 cm deep and 3-5 cm in diameter - this is enough for seed germination. However, in the future, the seedlings must be transplanted into larger pots in order for growth to continue. Uniform requirements There is no specification for the size of the pot, but it is better to choose a larger container.

Kiwi grows greatly and in the future there may be difficulties with transplantation.

6) A large amount of sunlight or artificial light. A capricious culture needs a lot of light, and if there is not enough natural light, you will have to use additional lighting.

Germinating kiwi seeds

1) First, you need to remove several kiwi seeds from a fresh fruit and rinse them thoroughly, removing any remaining pulp. The easiest way to do this is to place the seeds in a small cup and gradually add water, stirring thoroughly, and then drain. Do this procedure several times until the seeds are completely clean.

2) Fill a small mug or container with warm water and add kiwi seeds. Place them in a warm place - near a heater or on a windowsill. Within a week, the seeds will begin to germinate.

Remember to change the water every day to avoid bacterial growth.

3) After the seeds hatch, it’s time to transfer them to the mini-greenhouse. Soak paper towels in warm water and place them on a plate. Place the sprouted seeds on a towel and cover them plastic container(for example, a lid from a package of cake). After this, put them in a warm place sunny place. Be sure to poke a few small holes in the container to allow air circulation. In such “greenhouse” conditions, the seeds will germinate quite quickly.

4) Once the seeds have sprouted, it’s time to plant them. Before sowing, carefully prepare the container and substrate. It is better to moisten the latter; to do this, place it in a bucket and pour water over it until it is completely saturated.

5) Fill the container with wet substrate, but not to the top, but leaving about 2-3 cm to the edge.

6) Now it's time to sow the seeds. Sow them 6-8cm apart and at a depth of about twice their length. Ideally, you should use one small pot for each seed - this will make it easier to replant the seedlings later. After sowing, cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil.

7) Then carefully pour a little water over the substrate and place it in a warm place with enough light. In case of shortage natural light Be sure to add light to the plants. If you feel that the house is quite cool and drafty, cover the pots plastic cover. Keep the pots in a greenhouse until the first shoots appear.

What will be needed next?

To ensure that you and your plants enjoy the growth process, you only need to provide them with a few conditions:

Water. Constantly check that the soil in the containers remains moist at all times, especially in the first weeks of the plants' life. At the same time, do not allow the sprouts to be in a puddle of water - it should drain through the drainage holes.
Sunlight. Comfortable conditions for kiwi growth - plenty of sunlight every day. If this cannot be achieved naturally, additional lighting must be provided. During the summer months, the pots can be taken outside.
Nutrition. To keep kiwi seedlings healthy and ensure further growth, they should be fed periodically compost or vermicompost, as soon as the first leaves of the future kiwi appear on the surface. Fertilizers are applied to a small hole dug around the kiwi vine. You can use drained tea instead of compost.

It is important not to overfeed the kiwi, so apply fertilizer no more than 2-3 times a year. If in doubt, it is better to postpone feeding a little.

Any plant requires careful care and attention. Observe the color of the leaves and check them inner side to prevent diseases or pests. Then very soon you will be able to enjoy rare fruits grown with your own hands.

Based on materials from the site www.growingwildceeds.wordpress.com

Hi all! How to grow kiwi at home from seeds, seeds with video and photos in this material. Once upon a time, kiwi was rare in our latitudes. Now this tasty and healthy fruit can be easily purchased at any grocery store or market. But how much more pleasant it is to grow a tree at home and get a harvest from it! This way you can “kill two birds with one stone”: decorate your room with a wonderful plant and provide your family with exotic fruits.

What you will learn from this material:

How to grow kiwi at home rules

Growing kiwi at home is not at all difficult. But this task will require your attention, accuracy and the ability to wait.

Kiwi can be grown in several ways:

from seeds;
cuttings;
root suckers.

Each of these methods has its own characteristics, which we will describe in detail. But there are several general rules regarding the cultivation of kiwi.

Kiwi is a vine related to grapes, which means it has the same requirements. This plant loves a lot of warmth and sunlight. Therefore, he will need a place where there is a lot of sun and no drafts at all.

However, do not forget that direct sunlight can burn the leaves of the plant. It is better if it receives light from the side. It’s absolutely great if you can provide artificial vertical lighting for your kiwi. During growth, rotate the plant pot clockwise 10-15 degrees every two weeks. Thus, the vine will maintain a straight silhouette and develop an evenly dense crown.

Kiwi sprouts ready for picking

There are many varieties of kiwi, and almost all of them are suitable for growing independently at home. In order for kiwi to begin to bear fruit, you need to plant a female and a male plant - this is necessary for pollination. If you breed kiwi from seeds, you will have to wait until flowering to determine the sex of the vine. Usually kiwi begins to bloom at the 6th year of life, sometimes earlier.

Please note: kiwi is a dioecious plant. This means that for fruiting you need at least 2-3 female plants per one male plant. When grown from seeds, 80% of the plants are male, so it is better to grow more seedlings.

Growing kiwi from seeds is a rather painstaking task, it will require you special attention. We will tell you about it in detail.

How to grow kiwi from seeds

To grow a vine from seeds, you will need:

ripe fruit;
river sand, well washed;
fine expanded clay, which will provide drainage;
mini-greenhouse (can be replaced with plastic film;
prepared slightly acidic or neutral soil for citrus fruits or roses (can be purchased at specialty stores).

A mixture of black soil, peat and sand can be used as soil for germinating seeds. When you transplant the seedlings into pots, this mixture is also great, but you need to use less peat.

Kiwi shoots grown from seeds

Follow step by step instructions to get quality results.

Mash the kiwi fruit to a puree and remove the seeds. Rinse them thoroughly and mix with moistened river sand.
In order for the seeds to germinate well, they need to be stratified. Keep the bowl with the mixture of sand and seeds for 2 weeks at a temperature of 10 to 20 degrees, then place it in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks.
Place fine expanded clay at the bottom of the growing pots and pour soil on top. Mix the top layer of soil with a mixture of sand and seeds. Moisturize room temperature.
Place the pots with seeds in a mini-greenhouse (can be covered with film or glass). Install them in a well-lit, warm place. Don't forget to spray and ventilate daily.
As soon as the first shoots appear, begin to accustom them to fresh air. Every day, remove the lid from the greenhouse for a few minutes, gradually increasing the time.
When the second pair of true leaves appears, make a pick and plant the plants in separate pots. Be careful when doing this: root system Kiwi's is very delicate, located on the surface, and is easy to damage.

Rules for caring for kiwi grown from seeds

To create conditions close to natural for your plant, you need to adhere to some requirements. Then the kiwi will grow healthy, beautiful, and will be able to bear a good harvest.

Kiwi is a moisture-loving plant and needs regular watering. The soil must be constantly moist. But you can’t overdo it: in a puddle of stagnant water, the plant’s root system will die. Use a spray bottle for watering, it will be easier to measure required quantity water to evenly moisten the soil and leaves.

Kiwi needs not only large quantities sunlight during the day, but also in warmth. A south-facing window sill or a well-insulated balcony is suitable for it. If you do not have the opportunity to provide such conditions, provide artificial lighting using fluorescent lamps.

To ensure that the plant's vine grows strong and healthy, feed it periodically. To do this, you can use compost or vermicompost once a year. Dig a small trench around the grown seedling and place fertilizer in it, sprinkling soil on top. After a few waterings nutrients reach the lowest roots. Remember to regularly check your plants for fungi and pests.

Provide your plant with good support for proper growth

An adult kiwi is a fairly powerful vine that grows well. Don't forget about this when choosing a place for a plant pot. Over time, you will have to move the kiwi from the windowsill to where there is more free space. Be sure to make a good, strong support.

Kiwi is accustomed to a cool winter and can shed its leaves during the winter. The plant should overwinter in a bright place at a temperature of +10 degrees, and it should be watered less often than usual. The plant will produce new leaves in the spring. During this period, you need to do pruning, removing diseased, weak shoots. Experts recommend replanting kiwi every spring. Provide regular watering, fertilizing, plenty of light and warmth.

How to grow kiwi with seedlings and cuttings

Kiwi seedlings are grown from seeds in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the seeds need to be sown in January. After just two years, you can graft the kiwi variety you want onto a strengthened and grown seedling.

The grafting methods are the same as for other horticultural crops:

into the cleft with a woody cutting;
into the cleft with a green cutting;
budding.

After this, you can even plant your kiwi in open ground. If you plan to keep the plant in room conditions, provide it with a large, deep container so that the root system has enough space to grow and develop.

You can grow seedlings from rooted cuttings. This way vegetative propagation Great for green and woody kiwi cuttings. The disadvantages include the low percentage of rooted cuttings: at home, very few of them are obtained or not at all.

Cuttings of any variety can be grafted onto kiwi seedlings

Growing kiwi in this way does not require much trouble and is no different from caring for a plant grown from seeds. A seedling or cutting that has entered a period of active growth is not afraid of snow and frost, and is easily adaptable, so it can be planted in open ground. During the first years, it is enough to cover the vine for the winter, for example, with coniferous branches, if severe frosts often occur in your region.

Please note: For some reason, cats love kiwi leaves and branches. If you have a pet at home, try to protect the plant from it, for example, by surrounding it with a net. Otherwise, the kiwi may die due to constantly broken branches and eaten leaves. Other pests are practically not dangerous to this plant.

How to grow kiwi at home video

As you can see, growing kiwi yourself is not at all difficult. This wonderful unpretentious plant will become a real decoration for your home and garden. It's not only delicious, especially for women's health. If you have questions about the topic of the article, ask them in the comments.

Good luck to you!

Where to buy seeds and seedlings with delivery

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Growing kiwi at home is not an easy process, but it is quite a fascinating and interesting process. It is worth noting that Chinese gooseberry (as kiwi is popularly called) is a dioecious plant. That is, to get a fruit harvest, you will need both a male and female plant. Kiwi blooms 3-4 years after seed germination. Then it will be possible to determine the sex of the crop, so I recommend planting as many seeds as possible - 25-30 pieces.

When to plant and how to choose kiwi for seeds

Almost all varieties of kiwi grow and develop well in indoor conditions. But from my experience I will say that the high-yielding and fast-growing varieties Hayward, Abbott, and Bruno are best suited for growing at home. Optimal timing sowing seeds to obtain highly productive seedlings - from March to May. It is during this period that the highest seed germination is observed.

When choosing kiwi for seeds in the store, give preference to completely ripe fruit. It should be soft, smooth, without obvious defects and mechanical damage.

We receive and prepare seeds for sowing

When you get home, wash the fruit thoroughly and cut it into two parts. Carefully remove the skin from one half. Mash the pulp with a fork and place in a glass or mug with warm water to settle. After 10-15 minutes, rinse the contents of the glass several times - the pulp will disappear, and the seeds will remain floating on the surface.

Remove the washed bones from the water and place on paper. Then leave in a dry, warm place for 2-4 hours until completely dry. After this time, wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place on a saucer. Cover the plate with film and place in a warm place for one week. This way you will create a mini-greenhouse for germinating seeds. During this period, regularly moisten the fabric to prevent it from drying out. And at night, lift or completely remove the film from the saucer. In a week, if everything is done according to my recommendations, the seeds will produce the first shoots.

Preparing the ground

The next stage of growing kiwi from seeds is purchasing planting containers and soil. It is better to take a long pot - this will make it easier to care for young plants. You can prepare the soil yourself from peat, humus, sand and turf in equal proportions, or you can buy it in a specialized store, as I did. In any case, the soil mixture must be disinfected - kept in a water bath for two hours.

We sow

Sowing seeds in the following sequence:

Pour expanded clay onto the bottom of the pot, in a layer of 3-4 cm;
fill the container with soil and level it;
at a distance of 5 cm, make holes 5-10 mm deep and place 3 seeds in each;
Carefully fill the holes with soil. Water the plantings generously with warm water and cover with film;
place the pot on a window located on the south side. This way you will provide the plants with the amount of light and heat necessary for their normal growth and development.

Lift the film daily and spray the soil with water from a spray bottle. If you do not water, the soil will dry out and the sprouts will die.

We care for seedlings

The first shoots should appear 3-6 days after sowing the seeds. When the seedlings form a true leaf, discard weak and unnecessary specimens. Continue to water the plants twice a week, using only settled water. In winter - during a period of slow growth, reduce the number of waterings to 2-3 per month.

To ensure that plants have sufficient area for full development, do not forget to thin them out. It is better to do this in the initial stages, when the sprouts can simply be pulled out of the soil. A little later, thinning will be problematic, since kiwi roots develop very quickly. If such a need arises in the future, simply cut off the unnecessary plant with scissors.

As soon as the seedlings reach a height of 10-12 cm, plant them into individual containers. If this is not done, the plants will shade each other and, therefore, lag behind in development. After a year, feed the kiwi with compost. In summer, additionally apply complex mineral fertilizers.

Lemons and oranges grown on a windowsill will no longer surprise anyone. Therefore, amateur flower growers are constantly trying to “domesticate” new crops. Kiwi can also be grown in captivity. If you set a goal, in a few years you can get stably fruit-bearing plants from seeds.

Kiwi at home

In nature, kiwi (the plant is known to botanists as Actinidia sinensis) is a tree-like vine that prefers a tropical or subtropical climate. At the tops of the shoots, whole clusters of large fruits ripen, similar in appearance to very large gooseberries. Depending on the type, they may be smooth or rough to the touch.

In nature, the kiwi vine reaches 7–10 m in length

In principle, there is nothing difficult in creating a microclimate for kiwi that is close to optimal. But the plant belongs to the category of dioecious. This means that for fruiting to occur there must be at least two copies - male and female. They can only be distinguished during flowering. The former, acting as pollinators, lack a pistil, but have many stamens. One male plant is enough to pollinate five to six female plants. The only self-pollinating existing varieties kiwi is jenny. But even in this variety, the presence of male plants nearby has a positive effect on productivity.

The presence of a male plant is useful even if the variety is self-pollinating

Video: how to determine the sex of a kiwi plant

Amateur flower growers value kiwi not only for its fruiting, but also for its long and abundant flowering. Large five- or six-petalled flowers gradually change color from snow-white to yellowish-cream, lemon or lime.

Fruits at home, as a rule, ripen less than the description of a particular kiwi variety promises. But in terms of the content of vitamins, macro- and microelements, and taste, they are in no way inferior to those grown outdoors. Ripe fruits are easily separated from the vine. They are stored in the refrigerator, the approximate “shelf life” is one and a half to two weeks.

“Homemade” kiwis are small but very tasty

There are no problems with obtaining kiwi seeds at home. They can be taken from any berry purchased in the store. But seedlings grown in this way extremely rarely inherit the varietal characteristics of the “parent”, and taste qualities the fruits leave much to be desired. Therefore, they are most often used as a rootstock, and any seedling of a certain variety purchased from a specialized nursery acts as a scion.

Viable seeds can be obtained from the kiwi fruit, which can be purchased at any grocery store.

The harvest from kiwi grown from seeds will have to wait quite a long time. As a rule, such plants bloom for the first time no earlier than six years after planting.

It is advisable to obtain planting material from mature and healthy-looking fruits

For proper development of kiwi, warmth and sunlight are vital. Therefore, the pot is placed in the brightest place in the apartment, for example, on a south or south-west window sill, turning it periodically (every 2–2.5 weeks) so that the heat is distributed evenly. Cold drafts are strictly contraindicated. Equally important are regular fertilizing (preferably organic) and proper watering.

In nature, kiwi is a vine, so support for it must be taken care of in advance.

For some reason, actinidia juice has an effect on cats (and, to a lesser extent, cats) similar to that of valerian tincture. Therefore, it is worth putting the pot somewhere where cats definitely cannot reach it, or surrounding the plant with a net.

Cats do not eat kiwi leaves and shoots, but they can severely damage the plant when trying to get to the juice, which for some reason they are very partial to.

Planting and transplanting procedure

Growing kiwi begins with obtaining seeds. The fruits must be ripe and without the slightest trace of rot, mold, or pest damage. Collected seeds sown immediately after harvesting, the most the right time for this it is spring.

Obtaining seeds

The variety of kiwi does not matter for this. The main thing is that the fruit is mature and healthy in appearance. Ripe berries can be identified by their characteristic subtle aroma. Each kiwi contains more than a thousand seeds.

Seeds are prepared for planting as follows:

Preparing for landing

The root system of kiwi is quite developed, expanding greatly in width, but superficial and fibrous. Therefore, there is no point in purchasing a deep pot that is shaped like a bucket. The best option- a container similar to a bowl or salad bowl. A prerequisite is the presence of drainage holes. As for materials, you should give preference to natural ceramics - it allows air to pass through better, preventing moisture from stagnating.

A bucket-shaped pot can greatly slow down the growth of the vine, so no best option- a wide and shallow pot so that the roots have room to expand

Kiwi prefers soil that is light and loose, but still nutritious. A mixture of peat chips, coarse river sand and black soil in a ratio of 1:2:3 is well suited for it. You can add 8–10 g of sifted wood ash and crushed into powder eggshells for every liter ready substrate. Another soil option is vermiculite or perlite, peat and humus in approximately equal proportions. If you don’t want to prepare the soil mixture yourself, you can look in specialized stores for a substrate intended for any tropical vines.

Peat is a necessary component of soil for kiwi

Planting seeds in the ground

There is nothing complicated in the procedure itself. But there are some nuances that you need to familiarize yourself with in advance.

Expanded clay or other drainage material is poured onto the bottom of a clean pot, creating a layer at least 3–4 cm thick. On top is a disinfected substrate, filling approximately 2/3 of the container. To sterilize it, it can be treated with steam, heat or cold.
The soil is well moistened by spraying from a spray bottle and leveled. When the water is absorbed, sow the seeds as evenly as possible. Some gardeners recommend leaving them on the surface, others advise covering them with a thin (1–1.5 mm) layer of fine sand.
The plantings are once again moderately moistened, the pot is covered with glass or covered with plastic film to create a greenhouse effect. To place the container, choose the warmest place in the apartment (temperature not lower than 25–27ºС). It is also desirable to have at least 12–14 hours of daylight and bottom heating. To avoid condensation, the greenhouse is opened for ventilation for 3–5 minutes every day. As the soil dries, spray it with a spray bottle. It should always be slightly damp, but not wet.
Shoots appear en masse and quite quickly. 2–3 weeks after this, the plantings are thinned out, getting rid of the weakest seedlings.
When the kiwi seedlings reach a height of 10–12 cm (after 4–6 weeks), they are planted in individual containers. Such plants already have 2–3 pairs of true leaves. Suitable soil- peat mixture, turf land and sand in approximately equal proportions. During the picking process, you should try to injure the roots of the plant as little as possible. They are very tender and fragile in seedlings. At the same time, you need to take care of the support. If you stick it into the pot later, there is again a risk of damaging the roots.

Kiwi seeds have good germination, but then many sprouts may die, it depends on the conditions of their maintenance

Since the kiwi vine differs in its growth rate, and purchasing pots “for growth” is not recommended for any indoor plants, young specimens will have to be replanted quite often, every 5–6 months. For the first few weeks after the procedure, it is recommended to move the plant from the windowsill, placing it somewhere where it will definitely not receive direct sunlight. For adult kiwis, the heat is quite comfortable, but young vines can greatly slow down their growth.

Kiwi transplantation is carried out as needed. As a rule, once every two years is sufficient. The diameter of the pot is increased by 3–5 cm. It is carried out using the transshipment method, trying to destroy the earthen lump as little as possible and injure the roots. They are very fragile on the plant.

Kiwis grown at home (especially young specimens) need frequent replanting - the vine grows quite quickly

Video: collecting kiwi seeds and planting them

How to graft a kiwi cutting

Most often, kiwi plants grown from seeds at home are used not to obtain a harvest, but as a rootstock for “cultivated” varieties. Only seedlings aged three years and older are suitable for this. Kiwi can be grafted in any way. The results in each case are quite good.

Grafting into cleft

A lignified kiwi cutting is part of an annual shoot, cut from an adult vine of a certain variety in winter. For a plant, such pruning is mandatory procedure. Green cuttings are obtained by cutting off the tops of shoots formed this season in the summer.

It is very important to securely fix the entire structure during the grafting process.

The optimal length of the cutting is 8–12 cm (2–3 pairs of leaves), the thickness of the shoot from which it is taken is 7–10 mm. It must be absolutely healthy, the bark must be smooth, uniform, elastic and intact. Best time days for cutting cuttings in summer - early morning.

To receive planting material use sharpened, disinfected tools - scissors, a knife, pruning shears. Last option it is preferable, since it minimally injures the tissue of the shoot, the bark does not crack or wrinkle. The lower cut is made at an angle of approximately 45º, the upper (straight) is located 8–10 mm above the last bud.

The easiest way is grafting into the cleft. In this case, the cuttings are harvested in the fall and buried in the snow for the winter. The procedure is carried out in mid-spring.

Video: how to properly graft a cutting

Another common method is budding. Essentially, this is the same vaccination. The difference is that in this case, not a whole cutting is used, but only one growth bud, removed from it along with a thin layer of wood. The simplest option is budding in the butt. A bud cut from a scion plant is combined with a bark-cleaned area on the rootstock vine. Some gardeners claim that in order for the parts to grow together, a cross-shaped cut with a depth of 2–4 mm is generally sufficient.

The budding procedure is fundamentally no different from vaccination.

Video: butt budding process

The kiwi liana is characterized by its growth rate, so pruning is a mandatory procedure for it. Such plants look much more aesthetically pleasing and neater, and bear fruit more abundantly. If the growth of the vine is not limited in any way, it can stretch up to 7–10 m in length. It is absolutely impossible to keep such a plant in an apartment.

For seedlings that have grown to a height of 25–30 cm, pinch the top, removing the last 2–3 buds. This stimulates the plant to branch more intensively. But an excess of green mass is also harmful to the plant - all its strength goes into feeding it, so the fruits do not set at all or fall off long before ripening.

An adult kiwi plant at home should consist of 5–7 shoots, starting at a distance of approximately 45–50 cm from the base of the stem. They constantly form dense growth, which will have to be shortened throughout the growing season. It is not advisable to preserve it, since only the lower 5–6 “eyes” of each annual shoot bear fruit.

There is no point in leaving very long shoots on a kiwi vine: only the lower 5–6 buds bear fruit

Old branches are gradually removed, replacing them with replacement shoots. Typically, kiwi needs rejuvenating pruning every 5–6 years. If carried out correctly, the productive life of the vine extends to 40–50 years.

Pruning is especially important when there are several plants located next to each other. If it is not carried out, one of them may simply “strangle” the neighbors. Also, removing excess foliage and weak shoots improves air exchange in the crown, minimizing the risk of the spread of diseases and pest attacks.

A different method of formation is more often used when growing vines outdoors, but such plants also look nice at home.

An annual seedling is shortened to a height of 30 cm.
After another year, all formed trees are cut off to the growth point. side shoots, except two (the so-called shoulders).
When they reach a length of 1 m, their tops are pinched. From all the shoots formed on the “shoulders”, 3–4 lateral branches are left, located at approximately equal distances from each other. They are shortened by cutting off after the fifth or sixth bud.
During the active growing season, all growth on these branches and new side shoots on the “shoulders” are immediately removed.
After harvesting, the fruiting shoots are pinched so that 6–7 new leaves remain above the last berry. Branches on which there were no fruits are shortened to the fifth leaf bud.
At the age of three years, branches are pruned to the point of growth. Soon it will begin to form new escape, which is pinched after five leaves have formed on it.

Secateurs, like any other tool used for pruning kiwi, must be sharpened and disinfected

A very neglected or old kiwi vine can be rejuvenated by radical pruning in the spring. Unlike most indoor plants, kiwi responds normally to the loss of a significant part of the green mass, quickly recovering and starting to grow after such “stress”.

Other important nuances of caring for vines

Those who are going to grow kiwi should first of all remember that this is a southern subtropical plant. This is what you need to focus on when creating an optimal microclimate for it. In unsuitable conditions, the vine will most likely simply refuse to bear fruit.

Creating a suitable microclimate

The most important requirement of a vine is sufficient lighting. The pot is placed on a windowsill facing south or southwest. in winter natural light not enough, so you will have to use fluorescent or special phytolamps, extending the daylight hours to 12–14 hours. It is better to place them so that the light falls on the plant in a horizontal plane.

Kiwi vitally needs a lot of light, and taking this into account, they select a place for the pot

At the same time, kiwi in the hottest hours must be protected from direct contact sun rays. They cause serious burns, especially if the vine was watered shortly before. You can shade the kiwi with tulle, a paper screen, or several layers of gauze.

With a lack of light, the vine stems become unsightly thinner, the leaves turn pale and smaller, and the spaces between them increase. Flowering and, especially, fruiting in such conditions can not be expected.

Kiwi will most likely react negatively to any changes in living conditions. The plant especially does not like sudden temperature changes and cold drafts. Therefore, a place for it is chosen once and for all, approaching this procedure with all responsibility.

Plant care

Caring for kiwi at home is easy. Basically it comes down to regular watering and fertilizing. This is quite enough for the vine to feel good and bear fruit.

Kiwi prefers natural organic fertilizers. It is best to alternate it with mineral fertilizers. The liana spends quite a lot of energy on the growth and formation of fruits, so fertilizing is applied every 12–15 days, starting from mid-March and until October.

Vermicompost is an absolutely natural fertilizer

The very first fertilizing is vermicompost, humus or rotted compost (a source of nitrogen). A circular groove is made in the pot around the plant and fertilizer is added there. During the season, nutrients will gradually flow to the roots along with water. Then you can alternately use the complex mineral fertilizer and infusions of nettle leaves, dandelion, wood ash, and bird droppings.

Kiwi needs frequent and abundant watering, but at the same time it categorically does not tolerate stagnation of moisture in the pot. To avoid this, 30–40 minutes after the procedure you will definitely need to drain the excess liquid from the pan. Watering is carried out at least once every 3-4 days. At the same time, moisten the earthen ball as evenly as possible. It is best to use a watering can with a divider attachment for this.

A watering can with a divider helps to evenly wet the earthen ball in a pot of kiwi

In extreme heat, in addition to watering, it is advisable to spray the vine with a fine spray bottle. In both cases, water is used heated to room temperature. You can also use a special humidifier. Or simply place basins with cool water next to the kiwi, organize a “company” for the vine from other indoor plants, place wet expanded clay and sphagnum moss in the tray of the pot.

Sphagnum moss retains moisture well, which is very useful for indoor plants in the heat

In winter, the liana sheds its leaves; this is a natural process for it. As soon as this happens, fertilizing is stopped completely, and the number of waterings is reduced to once every 10–12 days. During hibernation, it is advisable to move the plant to a cool, bright room where the temperature is maintained at 12–16ºС.

Kiwi, like most fruit-bearing tropical plants (lemons, pomegranates, pineapples), sheds its leaves in the winter at home

Diseases and pests that threaten kiwi

Like any actinidia, kiwi rarely suffers from diseases and pests. This also applies to specimens grown at home. But you should not neglect regular inspection of the vine. The earlier a problem is noticed, the easier it is to deal with it.

Often worsening appearance and the grower himself is to blame for the condition of the kiwi. Mistakes he makes in care provoke problems with the plant.

Table: how kiwi reacts to improper care

Due to lack of light, the kiwi vine stretches unsightly - this applies to both adult plants and very young seedlings

In addition to the so-called non-communicable diseases, the symptoms of which most often disappear when the microclimate is normalized and proper fertilizing, kiwi can also suffer from fungal diseases. Most often, when overwatered, they develop various types rotten. Also, the plant is not ignored by such “universal” pests of indoor plants as aphids and scale insects. They are distinguished by their rare “omnivorousness”.

Table: diseases and pests that can threaten kiwi when grown at home

Photo gallery: diseases and pests dangerous to kiwi

Reviews about growing kiwi

Kiwi or actinidia chinensis is another crop successfully “domesticated” by amateur flower growers. If you create optimal conditions or conditions close to them, this vine does well in captivity, delighting the owner with its growth rate and regular fruiting. It suffers extremely rarely from diseases and pests - this is an undoubted advantage of the plant.

27 years old, higher legal education, broad outlook and interest in a variety of topics.

Almost all flower growers who strive to improve their own skills at one point decide to grow fruit-bearing crops, such as citrus fruits, coffee or vines. And many are interested in whether it is possible to grow kiwi at home. In reality, this is quite possible, but certain requirements must be met during the process.

How kiwi appeared: interesting fact

Kiwi is a member of the fruiting vine, also known as the Chinese gooseberry. And in order for this crop to begin to bear fruit, it is necessary to simultaneously grow two varieties of plants - male (required for pollination) and female. If you plan to grow from seeds, then be prepared to wait for the flowering period, because this is when you will be able to determine the sex of the vine. In most cases, kiwi blooms in its sixth year of life.

Growing kiwi at home

Basic requirements for cultivation

So, the growing process is not difficult, but you will have to be careful, careful and patient.

How to grow kiwi

You can grow kiwi:

cuttings;
seeds;
adventitious root buds.

All methods have their own nuances, advantages and disadvantages, which we will get acquainted with a little later. However, there are a number of general rules that apply to kiwi breeding.

Kiwi is a distant relative of grapes, and therefore similar growing technology is used here. The described culture is heat- and light-loving, so it needs to be placed in a well-lit place (preferably without drafts). It should be remembered that direct rays of the sun can lead to burns of foliage, therefore, the light should fall from the side. An even better option is artificial lighting, directed vertically.

Kiwi from seeds

During the development process, the pots should be periodically rotated clockwise (every two weeks by 10-15°). This will provide the plants with a straight silhouette, and the crown will be thick and uniform.

Pay attention! There are many varieties of kiwi, but, characteristically, almost all of them are suitable for growing at home.

Kiwi varieties

Yellow kiwi

It should also be remembered that kiwi is a dioecious crop, and therefore for normal fruiting it requires one male and at least two or three female plants. If kiwi is grown from seeds, then approximately 80 percent of the seedlings are male, so there should be as many of them as possible.

Now let's look at the workflow itself.

Kiwi - growing at home

It's better to start growing kiwi early spring, because then the highest seed germination is observed. This is very important point, so don’t delay sowing. Also take into account the fact that kiwi, by its nature, grows in regions with long and warm summers, so the conditions for the plant should be as comfortable as possible.

Traditionally, the process begins with preparing everything necessary.

If you really want to grow kiwi at home, make sure you have enough free space

Stage one. We prepare everything you need

To grow vines you must prepare:

one ripe kiwi fruit;
neutral or slightly acidic soil intended for citrus crops (can be purchased at any specialty store);
Soil for citrus fruits
thoroughly cleaned river sand;
mini-greenhouse (you can use PET film instead);
Mini greenhouse
fine-grained expanded clay - it will be used for drainage.

“Store” soil can be replaced with a soil mixture prepared by yourself, consisting of peat, sand and black soil (in equal proportions). By the way, when you plant seedlings in pots, this soil mixture will also work well, but there should be less peat in it.

Stage two. Preparing the seeds

Cut the fruit in half

Take a ripe fruit and cut it in half. You can eat one part and extract about 20 grains from the other. Clean the grains from the pulp (otherwise they will rot in the ground), but do it carefully, do not damage the shell. To simplify the procedure, you can throw the seeds into water, mix them well and leave them to settle for a while. Repeat the procedure two or three times - this will minimize the risk that the seeds will rot.

After this, spread the seeds on a napkin and dry for four hours.

Collection of kiwi seeds

Stage three. We germinate the seeds

Step one. Place a piece of cotton wool in a saucer and pour boiling water over it. There should be enough water so that the cotton wool is saturated with it, but the saucer should not be flooded.

Step two. Cover the saucer with a piece of film and place it in the brightest place in your home.

Step three. Every evening, remove the film, and return it the next morning, adding a small amount of water (the cotton wool should be damp all the time).

Soaking the seeds

Step four. After about a week, when the first shoots appear (in the form of thin white roots), you should plant the seeds in the soil.

Germination of seeds

Stage four. Transplanting seeds into soil

As for the soil, it should be as indicated in one of the previous paragraphs. Pour it into prepared containers or pots (the bottom must first be covered with an expanded clay drainage layer) and make small holes on the surface (the depth should not exceed one centimeter). Place the seeds in the holes, lightly sprinkle with soil, but do not compact them.

Cover the containers with film or glass and place in a warm place. As an option, you can put them in a mini-greenhouse. In the future, water the soil daily. It should not dry out, otherwise the sprouts will simply die. When watering, you can use a spray bottle, or you can place the pots in a tray and pour water there.

Kiwi shoots grown from seeds

Pay attention! When the first shoots form, begin to accustom them to fresh air. To do this, remove the glass/film daily, increasing the ventilation period over time.

Stage five. Making a pick

About four weeks after planting the seeds, when the seedlings have several true leaves, pick, i.e., transplant the plants into individual pots. The soil at this stage, as noted earlier, should contain less peat, while more turf soil can be used. Proceed with extreme caution, because the root system of vines is extremely delicate and located on the surface, which means it can be easily damaged.

Kiwi after dive

Why is a transplant needed at all? The fact is that this plant has fairly wide leaves, which will shade each other as they develop.

Sprouts with large leaves

How to grow kiwi at home

Stage six. Further care

To ensure conditions as close to natural as possible, you must adhere to a number of rules. Let's look at these rules in more detail.

Growing kiwi from seeds

Table. Key Requirements

Humidity	The soil, as we have already found out, should not dry out, so take care of even watering. It is preferable to use a spray bottle rather than a watering can - this way the entire surface of the soil will be moistened at once, and the plants will not be damaged. It is also advisable to count the number of times the sprinkler is pressed so that the volume of moisture applied is the same each time.
Pinching	Pinch the upper part of the vine from time to time - this will stimulate the formation of lateral shoots, and the plant itself will be stronger.
Lighting	Kiwi needs long daylight hours, which means, if possible, place containers on windowsills on the south side. If this is not enough, extend the lighting time artificially using a fluorescent lamp. IN winter time lighting should be positioned horizontally.
Feeding	Use organic fertilizer - compost or vermicompost. Apply it every year, first digging a small trench around each plant. In this case, when watering, the fertilizer will gradually flow to the root system, thanks to which the vines will grow healthy.

Pay attention! In summer, additionally apply complex mineral fertilizer. Do this about once every seven to ten days.

Features of vegetative propagation of kiwi

Seedlings of this crop are grown using the same technology as described above. The only difference is that the seeds must be sown in January. Two years later, a kiwi of one variety or another is grafted onto the seedling, which by that time will have grown and become stronger.

Kiwi seedlings

Seedlings before planting in the soil

Grafting can be done using the same methods used for other plants; in particular these are:

budding;
splitting with a green cutting;
a similar process, but with a lignified cutting.

Then the vine can be planted in open ground. If kiwi will be grown indoors, as in our case, then care should be taken to have a container of sufficient depth (the roots should have plenty of room for further growth).

You can also grow seedlings from rooted cuttings. The disadvantage of this method is the low germination rate at indoor growing– there are either few plants or no plants at all. Regarding further care, then it is the same as when grown by seeds. When the cutting/seedling enters a period of active growth, it will no longer be afraid of low temperatures and will be able to easily adapt to any conditions.

Kiwi seedling planted in the ground

How to get a big harvest?

The liana needs to be placed correctly. It requires a lot of space, so it is better to grow it on an insulated balcony. Also organize a support on which the plant will rise, or make a beautiful and original balcony frame out of it. The length of one vine, by the way, can reach seven meters.

Kiwi on the loggia

Pay attention! To obtain fruits, care must be taken to ensure pollination. IN natural conditions insects do this, but in our case you have to do everything yourself.

If there are too many male vines, you can graft “eyes” onto them from female ones, which will allow you to get fruits. Ideally, there should be five or six female plants per male plant, and if the proportions are incorrect, then it is better to graft. The “eyes” take root well, thanks to which the yield will noticeably increase.

Video - Kiwi grafting

Also periodically inspect kiwi leaves, for two reasons.

This will allow you to detect the fungus in time and clean the leaves.
The liana can become “infected” with various pests from neighboring plants, so in addition to inspection, try to place the kiwi as far as possible from them.

With the onset of autumn, prune old shoots: it is recommended to remove those branches that have already bear fruit. This will free up space for new shoots, and the vine itself will not age and will bear fruit for many years.

Kiwi harvest

If the vine grows on the balcony, then in winter you will have to additionally protect it from frost. To do this, remove the shoots after the sample and wrap them. When spring comes, they will produce new shoots more intensively.

And in conclusion - one more useful advice. For some reason, cats adore kiwi branches and foliage, so if you have such a pet, then take care of protecting the plant - you can, for example, surround it with a net. Otherwise, the kiwi may die.

How to stop a cat from walking on flowers? Regular toothpicks will help you

Seedlings in a cage

Video - Features of growing kiwi

Is it possible to grow a kiwi tree indoors? Experienced gardeners they say yes! Moreover, even a beginner can get it on the windowsill house plant which will bear fruit. Growing it is quite painstaking, but many people call the process exciting. The description and photo instructions will help you understand the algorithm.

Growing kiwi at home: what you need to know before planting

IN wildlife The Chinese kiwi gooseberry, like apples or pears, is a small 30-gram fruit. The usual large, fleshy fruits of 100 g and heavier were obtained by New Zealand breeders. Today, fruits with a refreshing, delicate taste are popular all over the world. In addition, they are very useful and are used in cosmetology, as well as for the prevention of a large number of diseases.

Kiwi grows on beautiful tree vines, reminiscent grapevine. At home, fruit trees are grown from seeds. Key points to consider before boarding:

Kiwi needs plenty of sunlight

Kiwi is a dioecious crop. To grow fruits at home, you will need at least two plants. You can determine which specimen is female and which is male only during flowering. Therefore, it is better to plant several vines at once.
At optimal conditions maintenance and care you will receive the first flowering and fruits no earlier than after 4-6 seasons.
Any variety is suitable for growing indoors.
The plant needs approximately the same conditions as grapes. For example, in the abundance of sunlight.

If your home does not have windows facing south or adjacent sides, a normally developed plant may not emerge.

Attention! There are special frost-resistant varieties that are suitable for growing in open ground middle zone. The conditions and care in this case are similar to indoor ones. Only for winter should the plant be wrapped. You may have to wait up to 10 years for fruits from such vines.

Planting kiwi: technology and features

Gardeners recommend starting all kiwi planting procedures in early spring. This time is considered optimal to obtain maximum germination. Kiwi seed material is not difficult to find. Buy a completely ripe fruit - soft and crumbly. Without peeling, cut it in half.

Take seeds from ripe juicy fruit

remove about 20 seeds, carefully remove the pulp from them;
wrap the material in gauze and rinse several times with tap water;
place the seeds on a saucer and leave to dry for a couple of hours under normal room conditions.

Attention! At the seed harvesting stage, you need to completely get rid of the pulp. Otherwise, the material will begin to rot.

The next step is to germinate the seeds to speed up germination:

Place cotton wool moderately soaked in hot water on a saucer. Place the seed on it.
Place the plate on a well-lit windowsill and cover with film. The mini-greenhouse should be opened at night. But make sure there are no drafts at this time. In the morning, wet the cotton again hot water and stretch the film.

Under such conditions, the seeds should form seedlings in 7-10 days. Maintain the mode until you see tender white roots. Now the germinated seeds should be transplanted into the soil:

Kiwi sprout

Mix humus, peat, turf and sand in equal parts.
Fill small pots with soil. Place a few seeds in each, directly on the surface. Sprinkle them with a thin layer of soil on top. The earth cannot be compacted.
Spray the planting daily, keeping the top layer of soil moist. Use only a spray bottle; simple watering cannot be done.

Advice. Moisturizing the earthen ball at this and subsequent stages of cultivation is extremely important for plants. Therefore, other methods are suitable for these purposes. For example, installing a mini-greenhouse from half of plastic bottles above each pot. However, excessive amounts of water will be detrimental to the plant’s root system.

Growing kiwi: caring for young plants

To care fruit tree was effective, bring the growing conditions as close as possible to its native, natural ones. Kiwi grows in climates with long, warm, humid summers. In addition to low humidity or excess water, the plant does not like:

cool climate, temperatures below +20 °C;
a sharp drop in temperature even in warm weather;
wind;
deficiency of sunlight.

Advice. If these features are taken into account, you can take the plant outside in the summer, and at other times of the year - on an insulated loggia or balcony.

Other nuances of caring for kiwi:

Fertilize your kiwi regularly

The key to the health and beauty of a tree is fertilizing organic fertilizers: vermicompost or compost. The mixture is applied in the spring, no more than 2-3 times. You can add the entire composition of fertilizers once, in dry form, into a trench dug around the stem. During the watering process, substances will gradually flow to the roots.
In summer, gardeners recommend fertilizing kiwi with mineral complexes. Frequency - 3-4 times a month.
Pinching the top from time to time will help strengthen and make the vine more branched.
A month after rooting in the ground, the plant will need a new transplant.
Each plant needs its own pot. It is important that wide leaves do not block each other's access to light.
Room conditions will not limit the growth of the vine. An adult plant can reach 7 m in length. The vine needs support (for example, a trellis), along which the kiwi will climb to the ceiling.

How to harvest kiwi at home

The optimal ratio of male and female plants for a good harvest is 1 to 5-6. It is very likely that by flowering you will discover that this is not the case. Often there will be more male specimens than needed. In this case, grafting female branch-eyes onto their stems is effective.

The gardener will have to pollinate the plants himself. Use clean and disinfected tweezers to transfer pollen from male flowers to female flowers.

Kiwi blossom

To prevent the plant from degenerating, remove old branches in the fall, especially if the shoot has already produced fruit. This way you will make room for young vines and maintain fruiting at the same level.

Attention! Kiwi is not very resistant to pests and diseases of indoor flowers. Keep it away from other plants. In cases of infection, use standard methods of combating and preventing a specific disease.

Kiwi is surprisingly quite easy to grow indoors. Attentive owners will be able to enjoy the taste of exotic food from their own windowsill.

Growing kiwi at home: video

It is quite possible to grow exotic fruits on your own not in hot countries but also in European latitudes, and most importantly, it is quite possible to reap rich harvests. He grows kiwi in his garden

The 90s were marked by discoveries in all areas of life. Gardening was not deprived of new products either: exotic, previously unseen kiwi fruits appeared on the shelves of shops and markets. I, then still a student at the Faculty of Biology, was very interested in this miracle fruit, and I began studying its origin.

It turned out that the discoverer of the plant was a New Zealand breeder, and kiwi is not found in nature in the wild.

The scientist developed his variety from wild Far Eastern actinidia. Accordingly, I had a hypothesis that this plant was originally frost-resistant, which means there is a chance to regain the property lost during New Zealand selection, which is so valuable for our climate zone.

The first thing to do was to sow as many seeds as possible. Having sowed hundreds of thousands of them, I exposed the seeds to various factors that enhance the natural ability of plants to mutate (mutogenesis).

In such a matter, it remains to pay tribute to Fortune, and in the end the victorious seedling was found.

In the 5th year, this seedling had already wintered in open ground and bloomed for the first time! This could already be called a grand victory. Plus, the plant turned out to be monoecious, that is, a male pollinator was not required for the fruiting process.

I carried out the reproduction process vegetative way: I took cuttings, as they usually do with grapes.

Then, day after day, a mother plantation was created, which overwintered and bore fruit in the open ground of the city of Uzhgorod without any insulation. This is how the variety arose, which I later called the Kiwi Karpat Stratona variety, the “Valentine” variant. This variety was tested at temperatures of -25-28 °C. The plants were never insulated, and cold damage was never observed.

The plant is a bush-liana, just like all other varieties of kiwi and actinidia existing in the world.

Like any other vine, kiwi needs support. This can be a trellis, a canopy, etc. The main requirement is 6 m2 of open surface of the bush, otherwise plants with a habit of less than 6 m2 are unsuitable for flowering.

The growth rate is amazing: already in the first growing season (spring - autumn), a seedling from 5-20 cm grew to 2.5-3 m! The idea arose of using a short grape pruning style.

However, with this treatment, kiwis that previously bore fruit stopped this process for two years, until the lost size of the bush was restored. What are the specifics of pruning and pinching kiwi?

Separately, it is worth mentioning the various kinds of manipulations that we are used to performing on plants in the early spring. Any interventions in the development of the kiwi bush are strictly contraindicated in early spring.

This is explained by the fact that kiwi is characterized by active sap flow at the beginning of spring. If you start pruning or pinching branches during this period, you will notice that the bush is “flowing.” Juice will begin to actively flow out of the cut areas, and this leads to the so-called “Dehydration” (if such a concept can be applied in gardening), as a result, significant parts of the plant die.

So, any kind of manipulation to form a bush can be carried out after the end of the process of active sap flow, that is, after the appearance of the first leaves and until the end of summer.

How soon after planting kiwi fruit should I expect fruit to appear?

Under conditions favorable for development and growth, kiwi begins to bloom and bear fruit already 3-4 years after planting. The flowers are large, 4-5 cm in diameter, 6-petaled, bright white, and later cream-colored. They have well-developed anthers, which naturally attracts pollinators (bees, bumblebees, etc.). Beekeepers may be interested to know that kiwi pollen, collected by insects, is snowy white in color.

Who knows, maybe very soon on store shelves you will be buying not linden, acacia or meadow honey, but “kiva” honey?

The flowering period falls at the end of May and lasts 7-10 days, after which green ovaries are formed, which actively grow until maturity.

The period of technical maturity of the fruit is quite long, usually beginning at the end of September. Long technical maturity, as well as the fact that the fruits hold tightly to the vines without falling off, allows for harvesting without haste, in a long time.

Kiwi stores well for up to 5 months, provided that the fruits are not completely ripe, that is, they are not soft when pressed. Long-term storage should be carried out in cold storage facilities, with a constant temperature of 0-6 °C.

How to grow kiwi at home. Master class + video

The best time to sow kiwi is from March to May. You need to choose the most ripe kiwi in the store. The fruit should be soft, smooth and without blemishes.

Wash the fruit and cut it into several parts. Gently mash the kiwi pulp. Throw the resulting slurry into a glass of warm water, stir, and let it sit for a while.

Rinse repeatedly - and then the pulp will go away, and the seeds will remain floating on the surface. Kiwi seeds should be placed on a napkin. After 2-4 hours they will already dry out. Wrap the seeds in cotton wool or cloth and place in a saucer. Add some hot water- it should saturate the material well, but not spill out when the container is tilted. Cover the seeds with film and place in a warm, sunny place. At night, it is better to open the film slightly or remove it altogether. In the morning, add the required amount of water. After 7-10 days, the kiwi seeds should hatch.

Take flower pot and pour a little expanded clay onto its bottom. It is better to take ready-made soil, intended for tropical vines. Keep it in a water bath for two hours. Place 2-3 seeds in holes 5-10 mm deep. Lightly sprinkle them with soil, pour water at room temperature and cover tightly with film. Place the tray in a warm, sunny place. In 3-6 days the first shoots will appear. It is better to start getting rid of unpromising and unnecessary sprouts already at this stage. Water moderately and only with settled water. In winter, the growth of kiwi shoots slows down, and it is enough to water them 2-3 times a month. During the growing season (spring and summer), plants require more moisture, so you need to water more often - 2 times a week. In addition, in the hot summer, kiwi needs to be sprayed.

Don't forget to thin out the plants, otherwise they will interfere with each other. In the early stages, you can simply pull them out of the ground. A little later, this will no longer be possible, since the root system of kiwi develops quite quickly. The most the right option there will be cutting off of unnecessary sprouts. When the plants reach a height of 10-12 cm, transplant them into separate trays. If this is not done, their development will slow down. IN favorable conditions Kiwi from seeds begins to bloom and bear fruit in the third or fourth year.

It turns out that kiwi can already be grown not only in an apartment, but also in your dacha. Domestic breeders, having developed frost-resistant varieties, are already doing this, obtaining, by the way, a good harvest. There are several videos about this