Clematis justa planting and care. Clematis (photo) - planting and care: expert advises. New strength

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There is no doubt that clematis are one of the most popular and beautiful climbing plants, thanks to the extraordinary wealth of varieties and diversity color palette. Thanks to their beauty and ease of growing, clematis have earned the love of gardeners all over the world.

The flowers of the bush vine are about 20 cm in diameter, and their color scheme depends on the plant variety. The gardens feature stunning whites and creams, as well as all shades of red and blue. Abundant flowering allows you to create a dense colorful wall that will decorate any corner of the garden. In many varieties, ripened fruits also look very decorative and decorate the perennial before the onset of winter.

To fully enjoy the beauty of the vine after planting, you need to take a closer look at the types and varieties of the magnificent plant before purchasing it, since many of them require little different conditions care and pruning.

General growing conditions

Before we make our choice, we should decide on the planting location of the perennial, since some forms prefer sunny areas, while others prefer partial shade. If you follow general principle, then varieties of bright colors prefer slight shading, and pastel varieties prefer the sun.

The soil

One more important element When growing clematis, the soil is used. Most types require fertile soil, loose, light and deeply dug. The culture does not tolerate acidic, heavy and damp soils. Prefers neutral acidity, so check the pH and add lime or chalk if necessary.

These shrub vines absolutely do not tolerate drought and overheating of the roots, so it is advisable to mulch the soil around the plant with compost or bark. This is a great way to avoid drying out and overheating, as well as additional protection for the root system in winter period. It is also a good idea to plant short crops at the base of the stems, such as lavender, and short ones.

Nutrition and watering

Watering should be systematic. Clematis are very sensitive to drought, low humidity and lack of nutrients. Feeding should be done gradually. You can apply small doses of mineral fertilizers for the first time after the beginning of the growing season and during budding, and for the second time after flowering and summer pruning. The crop should not be fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen later than the end of July, and with liquid fertilizers until the end of August. It is very practical to use slow-acting fertilizers rich in potassium, which are poured into the hole or around the plant once a year in the spring.

Preparing for winter

In the fall, remove weak, dry and broken shoots, carefully roll the rest or tilt them towards the ground.
Most hybrids are resistant to frost; the greater danger is waterlogging of the root system in early spring. Sometimes the ground part can freeze slightly. There is no need to worry; as a rule, with the arrival of spring, the growth of new shoots from the roots of the vine begins. You can protect the plant in winter using compost, spruce branches or rotted leaves. Sawdust is not suitable for covering clematis, since in winter it absorbs moisture and freezes, and in the spring it thaws very slowly, which leads to damping off of the perennial.

Planting clematis

It is better to plant in the spring, during the period of active development of the vine. Specimens purchased in containers can be planted throughout the growing season, that is, from April to mid-November. The soil for planting should be fertile, with the addition of humus or peat, permeable and moderately moist.

Since these vines sometimes grow in one place for more than 20 years, the prepared soil needs to be dug deep enough. Most suitable size holes - at least 60x60x60 cm. The earth is removed from the hole (near the bucket), cleared of weeds, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 200 g of ash, compost or manure, 150 g of chalk (if acidity is high) are added. In soils that are too light, add more peat, clay and rotted leaves. If the place is too wet and the soil is heavy, then a 15 cm layer of broken limestone or fine crushed stone and coarse sand is placed at the bottom of the hole.

In the first year after planting, clematis is pruned to stimulate the growth of new strong shoots. Individual varieties and hybrids of clematis should be planted at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other. After the procedure, provide the plantings abundant watering(at least 4 liters of water per week per specimen, in hot summer weather we increase the volume four times).

Groups and varieties

The choice of clematis varieties is huge, so they are usually divided into groups. They differ in the size and shade of flowers, flowering time and other additional decorative advantages. The beauty of vines, however, comes at a price. The easiest to grow and the most persistent bloom, as a rule, do not bloom very spectacularly, but the largest, brightest flowers are, as a rule, hybrids that require much more care and attention.

Viticella group. Italian clematis are hardy and easy to grow, but require heavy pruning. Full sun. They reach 3-5 m in height and bloom on the shoots of the current year. Examples of varieties: “Alba Luxurians”, “Emilia Plater”, “Justa”.

Atragene Group. Clematis with bell-shaped blue and purple flowers(full or semi-double), bloom in spring on last year's shoots, some varieties can repeat flowering in summer. The plants are frost-resistant and suitable for growing in cold regions. In addition, they are easy to maintain and generally do not require cutting. Examples of varieties: “Pamela Jackman”, “Riga”, “Stolwijk Gold”.

Tangunica group. Produce many small (2-8 cm in diameter), bell-shaped flowers (mostly yellow color). Their fruits are also a decoration. They bloom on the shoots of the current year all summer and autumn. Used as decoration for pergolas and gazebos. Some famous varieties: "Anita", "Bill MacKenzie".

Vitalba Group. The forms are grape-leaved, vigorous (up to 6 meters). Easy to grow. As a rule, they bloom from June to October. They produce numerous but small ones, only 2 cm in diameter. The flowers are predominantly cream or white. Example variety: "Paul côte du baron".

Texensis Group. Texas clematis, derived from selection and crossing of Clematis texensis with any representatives of the large-flowered groups. The flowering period is from June to August. Requires strong cutting. Frost-resistant. Examples of varieties: “Dutches of Albany”, “Gravetye Beauty”, “Princess Diana”.

A group of early flowering large-flowered plants. The height of representatives of this group is from 2 to 4 m. Last year's shoots bloom in May or June, and in summer flowering is repeated on this year's shoots. The diameter of the flowers is 10-25 cm. They require shelter in cold areas. Famous varieties: “Andromeda”, “Nicholas Copernicus”, “Baltika”, “Doctor Ruppel”.

A group of late-blooming large-flowered plants. They bloom on last year's shoots in the summer, and in the fall they bloom again, but on this year's shoots. The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter. Requires strong cutting. One of famous varieties: “Ashva”, “Cardinal Vyshinsky”.

Integrifolia group or entire leaf. Low-growing forms up to one meter high with abundant late flowering. They do not cling to supporting structures, but can rely on shoots, therefore they are grown as subshrubs or ground cover plants. They are distinguished by beautiful fluffy fruits. Examples of varieties: “Hakuree”, “Hanajima”, “Olgae”.

Basic rules for pruning clematis

The key to proper plant care is pruning to keep them blooming profusely. In the first year of growing clematis, all young specimens should be cut no higher than 30 cm from the base. We perform this procedure from mid-March to early April, about 1 cm above a pair of swollen healthy kidneys. And we trim older specimens depending on which group they belong to.

Most wild species (eg. alpine species) does not require cutting or is cut very rarely. Hybrid large-flowered varieties require regular cutting; in this case, cutting is used to obtain strong, abundantly flowering bushes.

A group of early flowering species and varieties. Perennials that bloom in spring set flower buds last year, so pruning them shortly before the start of flowering this year will remove the flower buds. Therefore, cutting should be done immediately after flowering, before new flower buds form for the following year. As soon as they fade, remove weak and dried shoots and, if the plant is too dense, thin out healthy ones as well. We cut it 50-70 cm above the ground.

Thus, we trim: alpine (Clematis alpina) “Columbine”, “Constance”, “Pink Flamingo”, “Ruby”; "Blue Bird", "Lagoon", "Toronto's Pink"; mountain species (Clematis montana) ""Rubens", "Fred", "Mayleen".

Pruning varieties blooming in spring and in summer. Large-flowered varieties This group blooms in summer and late spring on short side shoots that appeared last year, and the next season flowering begins on the shoots of the current year. In these plants, cutting is carried out in early spring, removing the most overgrown shoots.
Thus, we prune the varieties: “Alabast”, “Dr. Ruppel", "Duchness of Edinburgh", "H. F. Young", "Multi Blue", "Nelly Moser", "Snow Queen", "The President", "Miss Bateman"

The late blooming group blooms on this year's growth. Therefore, old shoots should be removed after winter so that the plants are not taken away vitality and nutrition. A bush liana will bloom only after the reconstruction of the shoots and the creation of flower buds, which will take 2-3 months, so these varieties, as a rule, begin flowering in June-July. Hence the name of the group to which they belong. Flowering is usually continuous until September, and some hybrids - until October, such as "Ernest Markham" or "Semu". Cutting is done low, i.e. at a height of 30-50 cm from the ground.

A group of vigorous clematis. Here we have a completely different story - the above-ground part of these vines dies off in winter and therefore it is removed in the spring down to the ground. Shoots grow from the roots; the older the perennial, the more shoots develop. However, if the shoots are lignified, then clematis is pruned at a height of 5-10 cm above the ground.

Clematis diseases

Most often they are threatened by fungal diseases. Powdery mildew causes the formation of a white powdery coating on leaves, shoots and flowers. Diseases are promoted by overly dense plantings, weeds and high humidity air. When watering, the stream of water should be directed under the base of the bush, avoiding contact with the leaves. Infected plants need to be treated 2-3 times at intervals of 7 days using fungicides. Diseased parts of the plant should be removed.

Clematis can also be attacked by gray mold, which causes darkening of the tips of the shoots, as well as the appearance of round spots on the flower petals. Spraying with Teldor 500 SC (at a concentration of 0.1%) helps in the fight against this disease. Of course, the affected parts should be cut off.

If dark spots and black accumulations of fungal spores appear on the leaves, then it is necessary to cut out the infected leaves or entire shoots and burn them. It is best to cut off heavily affected parts at the base and pour 5 liters of a 1% solution of Topsin. This procedure must be repeated after 14 days.

Clematis (lat. Clematis), or clematis, or vine- a genus of the Ranunculaceae family, is a woody plant or herbaceous perennial, common in the temperate and subtropical zones of the Northern Hemisphere. There are about 300 species in total, and they are sometimes very different from each other. The Greek word "klema" once meant any climbing plant. In home floriculture, clematis vines are most often used. They say that clematis is a plant that can replace an entire garden.

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Planting and caring for clematis (in brief)

Landing: Depending on the size of the seeds, seedlings are sown from December to March. Seedlings are planted in autumn or spring.
Bloom: depending on the variety and type from April to October.
Lighting: bright sun, light partial shade.
The soil: loose, rich in humus, sandy loam or loamy, with a pH value from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic.
Watering: once a week, consumption depends on age: from 10 to 40 liters for each bush. In dry seasons - 2-3 times a week.
Feeding: during the period of growth - nitrogen fertilizers, during the budding period - potassium, after flowering - phosphorus. Do not feed during flowering.
Garter: required. The supports must be very strong.
Trimming: regular, mandatory, timing and intensity depend on which group the plant belongs to.
Reproduction: seed and vegetative - by dividing the bush, layering, pinning shoots.
Pests: root-knot and leaf nematodes.
Diseases: verticillium wilt, gray mold, rust, powdery mildew, ascochyta blight and sometimes viral yellow mosaic.

Clematis flowers - description

The types of clematis are very different from each other. Among them there are subshrubs, shrubs, and herbaceous perennial plants, but most of the species belong to the group of lianas. Their root system is of two types: taproot (plants of this group are difficult to transplant) and fibrous. The shoots of the current year in clematis are thin, in herbaceous species these shoots are green and rounded, in woody species they are faceted. Such shoots develop from above-ground buds of old shoots or from the underground part of clematis. Clematis leaves are simple or compound (consisting of three, five or seven leaflets), paired, usually green, but in some species they are purple.

Bisexual clematis flowers are single or collected in inflorescences of different shapes (semi-umbrella, shield, panicle). There are different numbers of petals (actually sepals): from four to eight, and in double forms - up to seventy. U simple shapes in the center of the flower there are many stamens and pistils, which makes the middle look like hairy spider, often having a contrasting color.

In general, the color range of clematis is very wide: from pale pink to dark red, from light blue to velvet blue and, of course, there are white and yellow shades. Each flower lives for two to three weeks, many varieties of clematis exude a scent reminiscent of primrose, jasmine or almond. The fruits of clematis are numerous achenes.

Growing clematis from seeds

Sowing seeds

In the huge variety of species and varieties of clematis, gardeners are tempted to do the breeding themselves. For those who are interested in growing clematis from seeds, we are ready to provide necessary information about this process.

According to the size of the seeds and the duration of their germination Clematis are divided into three groups:

Clematis with large seeds that germinate for a very long time and unevenly - from one and a half to eight months, or even longer (clematis Durand, Jacquemman, purple, woolly, etc.);
Clematis, the seeds of which are of medium size and germinate within one and a half to six months (clematis whole-leaved, Manchurian, six-petalled, Douglas, Chinese, etc.);
Clematis with small seeds that germinate quickly and amicably - from two weeks to four months maximum (Tangut clematis, grape-leaved clematis, etc.).

In the photo: Clematis seeds

Clematis seeds collected in the current year germinate best, but if you store the seed material in paper bags at a temperature of 18-23 ºC, it will be suitable for germination for four years. According to the sowing time, the timing is as follows: small seeds are sown in March-April, medium seeds - after New Year's holidays, and large ones - immediately after collection, in the fall or early winter.

At the end of summer, dark gray necrosis may appear on the leaves and shoots, making them velvety and changing their color. In mid-summer, clematis can get sick ascotychosis causing necrotic spots irregular shape on the leaves, or cylindrosporiosis, which “decorates” the leaves with bright yellow spots. Preparations containing copper are effective against all these diseases - 1% solution of copper sulfate, for example.

On the picture:

TO viral diseases Clematis is resistant, but sucking pests can infect the plant with a yellow mosaic of leaves, for which there are no drugs yet, so diseased plants will have to be destroyed. In the future, do not plant clematis next to plants that are easily affected by mosaic - hosta, sweet pea, delphinium, aquilegia, phlox and peony. Sometimes clematis suffer from root-knot or leaf nematodes. When removing rotten specimens, look at the condition of the plant roots, and if you find nodules on the roots, do not plant clematis in this area for several years.

Pruning clematis

Clematis pruning is done both during plant growth, as necessary, to extend the flowering period, and during the winter. If you remember, there are three groups of clematis:

The first group of clematis (group A). In this group, flowers form on last year's shoots, so only weak shoots are pruned. This is done after flowering in June. Before winter, clematis hill up high;
Second group of clematis (group B) It blooms both on last year's shoots and on the current year's shoots. Pruning is done at a level of 0.5-1 m, leaving 2-5 pairs of buds, and weak shoots are cut to the base. The liana is removed from the support, rolled up and carefully laid at the roots;
The third group of clematis (group C) forms inflorescences only on young shoots of the current year; clematis of this group are pruned several times during the growing season. In autumn, all shoots are pruned to ground level or slightly higher.

Clematis after flowering

When deep autumn arrives, you need to think about how your clematis will live in winter. In dry weather, under the base of any clematis in the center of the bush, on the eve of winter, pour a bucket of humus, after removing all the leaves and treating the neck of the plant with a two percent solution copper sulfate. Then you need to hill the clematis to a height of 10-15 cm with sand and ash (250 g of ash per bucket of sand). Cover clematis that need it in a dry way: the shoots are bent or twisted and laid on the base, covered with dry leaves (spruce branches, even crushed polystyrene foam is used), then covered with a wooden box so that there is air around the plant, roofing felt, roofing felt or roofing felt are placed on the box another waterproof material, which is pressed down in the corners with stones or bricks so as not to be blown away by the wind, and the whole thing is covered with a 20-25 cm layer of earth or peat.

In the spring, the soil and film are first removed, and the spruce branches or leaves are removed only when the threat of frost has passed. The shoots are carefully lifted, straightened and distributed on supports.

Types and varieties of clematis

There are several classifications of clematis: division of clematis into groups M.A. Beskaravainaya, taking into account the origin of the species on the maternal line, the taxonomic system of M. Tamura, the classifications of A. Rader, L. Bailey, V. Matthews and others. Hobbyists and beginners prefer to use the simplest classification of clematis according to the size of their flowers: large-flowered clematis, medium-flowered clematis and small-flowered clematis.

But the most convenient for flower growers is the following international classification:

Clematis, the flowers of which bloom on last year's shoots (group A);
Clematis blooming on both last year's shoots and current year's shoots (group B);
Clematis that bloom only on the current year's shoots (group C).

Let's look at these groups and the clematis varieties that belong to them.

Group one A:

Alpine clematis (Clematis alpina)

A liana reaching a height of 3 m, its leaves are leathery, large, small tubular blue flowers bloom in August. Sometimes used as a border plant. Varieties:

Clematis Artagena Franki– height 2-2.4 m, flowers are bell-shaped, blue with a white center, directed downwards. Winter-hardy;
Clematis Albina Plena– clematis white, double, tall (up to 2.8 m), blooms from May to June;
clematis Pamela Jackman– the length of the shoots is 2-3 m, the flowers are violet-blue, drooping, length – 6-7 cm, blooms from April to June, in the second half of summer it blooms a second time, but not so profusely.

In the photo: Alpine clematis (Clematis alpina) Albina Plena

In the photo: Alpine clematis (Clematis alpina) Artagena Franki

In the photo: Alpine clematis (Clematis alpina) Pamela Jackman

Clematis florida

A tall woody liana more than 3 m high, flowers are single, large, fragrant, mostly light in color. There are two-color varieties of clematis. Popular varieties:

Clematis Vyvyan Pennell– height up to 3.5 m, lilac double flowers 12-15 cm in diameter;
clematis baby– height – 1 m, cross-shaped flowers light-colored purple with a blue tint with a diameter of 10-14 cm;
clematis Joan of Arc– pure white fragrant double flowers of compact size that appear large against the background small plant. The plant is frost-resistant, is not afraid of either sun or shade, and almost never gets sick.

In the photo: Clematis florida Joan of Arc

In the photo: Clematis florida Vyvyan Pennell

Mountain clematis (Clematis montana)

A giant liana up to 9 m tall, leaves are small, sharp, flowers are collected in bunches of five, flowers on long stalks are white, 4-5 cm in diameter, the stamens are yellow. Doesn't like cold winters. Varieties:

Clematis Rubens– a fast-growing vine up to 6 m long, woody, leaves trifoliate, pointed, oval, with a bronze tint. Opened red-pink flowers up to 6 cm in diameter are collected in 3-5 pieces. Blooms profusely, loves sun;
Clematis Montana Grandiflora– the length of the shoots of this vine is 5 m, closely spaced trifoliate leaves are arranged in bunches, medium-sized flowers are up to 5 cm, open, with a delicate scent, collected in bunches of several pieces, sepals are white or white-pink, anthers are light yellow. This variety blooms in May-June.

In the photo: Mountain clematis (Clematis montana) Grandiflora

In the photo: mountain clematis (Clematis montana) Rubens

Group two B:

Woolly clematis (Clematis lanuginosa)

Shrub vine up to 2.5 m long, beautiful single flowers up to 20 cm in diameter, white, blue and pink shades. The first time it blooms on last year's shoots in May-June, the second time - at the end of summer, but on new shoots. Popular varieties:

Clematis Madame le culture– shoots 2.5-3 m long, leaves simple or trifoliate, lobed or entire. The flowers are 14-20 cm in diameter, white sepals, light-colored anthers, bloom in July. Winter hardiness is average;
Clematis Hybrida Sieboldii– liana, shoots up to 3 m long, flowers 16 cm in diameter: light lilac sepals with dark edges, red-brown anthers. Blooms from July to September;
Clematis Lawsoniana– shrub vine, shoots up to three meters long, leaves sometimes simple, often trifoliate, oval leaves. The buds look upward, fragrant flowers are up to 18 cm in diameter, the sepals are lilac-violet with a dark stripe in the middle, the anthers are purple. It blooms in May-June, sometimes re-blooming, but weaker, in the fall.

In the photo: Clematis lanuginosa Hybrida Sieboldii

In the photo: Clematis lanuginosa Lawsoniana

In the photo: Woolly clematis (Clematis lanuginosa) Madame le culture

Clematis patens

A shrub vine, the shoots of which reach a length of 3.5 m, the flowers are large, up to 15 cm in diameter or more, in a variety of shades from white to dark blue, there are bicolor varieties. The shape of the flowers is simple, star-shaped or double. It blooms in May-June on old shoots, and can bloom again in the fall on young shoots. All varieties are afraid of severe cold.

clematis Joan Pikton– length of shoots up to 3 m, very large flowers(up to 22 cm) light lilac with a lilac tint with a light stripe in the center of the petal. The edges of the petals are wavy. The anthers are red. Blooms very profusely;
Clematis Multi Blue– a vine up to 2.5 m high, blue-violet double flowers 14 cm in diameter are arranged along the shoot in several tiers. Blooms in June-August.

In the photo: Clematis patens Joan Pikton

In the photo: Clematis patens Multi Blue

Group three C:

Clematis jackmanii

These are clematis obtained from crossing clematis Lanuginosa with clematis Vititsella, which are mostly large shrubby vines with shoots up to 4-6 meters long and a well-developed root system. Their leaves are pinnately complex, consisting of 3-5 large leaflets, the buds are elongated, the flowers are single or collected in groups of 3, open, directed to the side and upward, odorless, in all possible shades except white. The flowers of this group reach 20 cm in diameter, although there are varieties with flowers only 8 cm in diameter. Varieties of this group bloom profusely and for a long time on this year's shoots, which are cut to ground level in winter or a shoot with three to five pairs of buds is left. Popular varieties:

Clematis Rouge Cardinal- a liana with a shoot length of 2-2.5 m with trifoliate leaves, flowers - open, up to 15 cm in diameter, cross-shaped. The velvety sepals are dark purple, the anthers are light purple. Blooms in July-September. Moderately winter-hardy. Clematis "Rouge Cardinal" - winner of many flower awards;
Clematis Star of India– a shrubby vine with shoots up to 3 m long. Compound Leaves consist of 3-5 whole or lobed oval-pointed leaves. The flowers are open, up to 15 cm in diameter, the diamond-shaped sepals are juicy purple with a purple stripe along the middle, the anthers are light. It blooms very profusely in the second half of summer;
Clematis Gipsy Queen- a shrub vine, the shoots of which reach 3.5 m. There are about 15 shoots in the bush. The leaves are complex, the buds are raised upward, the flowers are open, up to 15 cm in diameter, the sepals are wide, velvety, bright purple, almost do not fade in the sun, the anthers are dark burgundy, the pollen is also colored. It blooms very profusely from the second half of summer until frost. Not afraid of shade, each shoot has up to 20 flowers. The variety is resistant to fungal diseases;
clematis Bella– shoots are only up to 2 m long, star-shaped flowers 10-15 cm in diameter, waxy, at first light yellow, then become snow-white. The variety is winter-hardy and resistant to fungi. Blooms from July to September.

In the photo: Clematis jackmanii Bella

In the photo: Clematis jackmanii Gipsy Queen

In the photo: Clematis jackmanii Rouge Cardinal

In the photo: Clematis jackmanii Star of India

Purple clematis (Clematis viticella)

The name itself suggests that this species is represented by purple flowers of varying intensities and shades. The flowers of representatives of this species are simple, sometimes drooping, ranging in size from 10 to 20 cm in diameter. The shoots of these vines reach 3.5 m in length, and they grow quickly. Clematis of this species bloom from June to September. Here are several varieties of this species:

clematis Ville de Lyon- a shrub vine, dark brown shoots up to 3.5 m long, in a bush there are up to 15 such shoots. The leaves are compound, consisting of 3-5 whole or lobed leaves, which turn yellow and dry at the base of the shoots. The buds look upward, the open flowers are 10-15 cm in diameter, the peduncles are long. Wide carmine-red sepals fade in the sun in summer; the anthers are bright yellow. Blooms profusely, with up to 15 flowers on each shoot;
Clematis Viola– the shoots of this vine reach a length of 2.5 m, the leaves are trifoliate, it blooms profusely and continuously from July to October with disc-shaped open propeller-like flowers 10-14 cm in diameter. The sepals are dark purple with purple veins, the anthers are pale yellow;
clematis Polish Spirit – the shoots of this vine are up to 4 m long, strewn with lilac-lilac flowers with a diameter of 8 cm from the end of June until the coldest weather.

In the photo: Clematis viticella Polish Spirit

In the photo: Clematis viticella Ville de Lyon

In the photo: Clematis viticella Viola

Clematis integrifolia

A type of climbing shrubs that do not cling to support. The height of these plants is no higher than 2.5 m, drooping bell-shaped flowers in red, pink, purple, blue and blue shades. Popular varieties:

Clematis Durandii (Durand's clematis)- one of the most beautiful large-flowered species of hybrid origin. A climbing shrub up to only 2 m high, it has brown shoots, of which there are up to fifteen in the bush. The leaves are oval, simple, whole, dense, not damaged by the sun. The flowers are drooping, up to 12 cm in diameter, the sepals are bright purple or juicy blue, fading in the sun, the anthers are pale yellow. Each shoot has up to 15 flowers. This variety blooms from July to October;
clematis Värava– shoots no longer than 2.5 m, star-shaped flowers with a diameter of 12-16 cm, light purple on the inside with a burgundy stripe along the petal, pale purple on the outside with an even lighter middle stripe. Blooms until frost;
clematis Memory of the heart- a subshrub with shoots 1-2 m long, drooping bell-shaped flowers 5-9 cm in diameter, blooms profusely from July until frost (October).

Small-flowered clematis (Clematis flammula)

- a vine with small white fragrant flowers, grows very quickly, reaching a shoot length of up to 5 m, leaves are compound, dark green, pinnate, cross-shaped flowers are collected in inflorescences. Blooms in July-August.

Tangut clematis (Clematis tangutica)

- a fast-growing tall vine that blooms with medium-sized yellow bell-shaped flowers. Produces seeds and does not require shelter in the cold season.

In the photo: Durand's whole-leaved clematis (Clematis integrifolia)

In the photo: Clematis whole-leaved Memory of the Heart (Clematis integrifolia)

In the photo: Tangut Clematis (Clematis tangutica) Shrubs Lianas Plants on K

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Clematis Justa is considered one of the most beautiful varieties. It belongs to the Viticella group (purple princelings). Is of Lithuanian origin. The vine itself is quite compact, but it has abundant flowering. To achieve this, you need not only to sow clematis correctly, but also to observe certain requirements for plant care.

Clematis Justa is a large-flowered specimen. The inflorescences themselves have a simple drooping shape. Usually 3 copies are collected together. Their sizes vary from 6 to 20 cm in diameter. The edges are slightly wavy. The petals are usually described as light purple or light pinkish, with a characteristic blue tint. There is a stripe at the base. The anthers are light yellowish in color. They are located on white threads. The flowering period occurs throughout the summer and early September.

The shoots develop quite quickly, but their length is approximately 1.5 m. The plant is fixed to the supports using leaf petioles. Typically, this variety of princelings is used for vertical landscaping. Great for low fences and containers where space is limited.

Be sure to carefully select the place for planting - it should be sunny or with partial shade. As for the soil, it is recommended to choose an area with humus, fertile soil. It should be moderately moist and loose. Loamy and sandy loam soil is excellent. Its acidity level is within 6-7 units. As for frost resistance, clematis Yusta is suitable for zones from 9a, where the temperature does not fall below -70° C, to 4a, where winter temperatures do not fall below -35° C.

Clematis Yusta pruning group is third. This means that such a prince will flower only on young shoots that have formed this year. The plant must be pruned in the same way as newly planted clematis, that is, leave 2-3 buds on the shoots.

There is a universal pruning method that is used for all plants belonging to different groups. This also applies to clematis Justa. It is necessary to cut one shoot to 1 m, and the other completely, leaving only 2-4 buds. Alternate this way throughout the entire bush. Thanks to this procedure, the culture can be rejuvenated.

Landing

Clematis Justa is grown from seeds and seedlings. The first option is suitable for those people who prefer to do their own breeding work. For germination, it is better to choose those seeds that were collected this year. They should be stored in paper bags. The temperature should be 8-23 0 C. In such conditions, the seed is suitable for germination for 4 years.

1 Pre-soak the seeds for 10 days. Change the water every 4 days.
2 Prepare the soil - mix sand, soil and peat in equal parts. Water thoroughly.
3 Transfer the seeds one at a time into a container with substrate. Sprinkle sand on top. The layer should be 2 times larger than the thickness of the seed. Compact carefully.
4 Cover with glass or plastic wrap. The temperature should be from 25 to 30 0 C. Water the substrate periodically.

When sprouts appear, the film must be removed. Seedlings require more light. As soon as the first true leaves appear on the seedlings, picking is carried out, that is, they are planted in separate pots. They need to be kept indoors with room temperature until frost passes.

Then the landing takes place open ground. It is necessary to choose an area in the shade with light soil. The interval between young plants is 20 cm. They need to be pinched periodically to root system developed better. In autumn, plants need to be covered. In the spring you will have to plant the sprouts again. This time the distance between them should be 50 cm. After 3 years, when the seedling has at least 3 large roots 15 cm long, the clematis is transplanted to a permanent place. This can be done both in spring and autumn. If the region has a cooler climate, then it is better to start the procedure in April or May.

The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

1 Dig a hole. The depth should be 0.6 m. The thickness and width should also be of the same size.
2 Pour crushed stone, perlite or expanded clay onto the bottom. The layer is 10 cm. If the soil on the site is infertile, then its composition should be changed. To do this, add 2 buckets of compost, 1 bucket each of peat and sand. Additionally, you will need 150 g of superphosphate and 400 g of dolomite flour.
3 Install stationary supports. Height – 2 m.
4 Add soil to the drainage layer.
5 Install the seedling. Gently straighten the roots.
6 Sprinkle with substrate so that the root collar is 5-10 cm below ground level.
7 Compact the soil around the trunk.
8 Water the plant - use a bucket of water.

Leave a distance of 1 m between bushes.

Rules of care

To ensure abundant flowering, the following conditions must be observed when caring for clematis:

1 Watering The culture is considered moisture-loving, so it is necessary to moisten the soil once a week, and in hot summers the procedure must be carried out twice as often. Young plants require 10-20 liters per procedure, and more mature ones - from 20 to 40 liters. Experts advise digging several large pots into the ground around the bush with a hole in the bottom. When watering, these containers must be filled. Water will gradually penetrate into the soil and moisten those layers where the clematis root system is located.
2 Mulching. Prevents the appearance of weeds and prevents the soil from drying out completely. Moss, peat or humus can be used as mulch.
3 Loosening. If in spring time the space around the vine has not been mulched, then you will have to periodically loosen the soil. This must be done every time after watering the next day. At the same time, it is also necessary to remove weeds.
4 Feeding. In the first year of planting, it is not recommended to use fertilizers frequently, since such substances are added to the soil at the time of preparing the hole. If you use such products too often, there is a high probability that the young plant will rot along with the fertilizers. During the period of active vegetation growth, it is necessary to use formulations that contain large quantities nitrogen. It is required to increase green mass. During the period of bud formation, potassium fertilizers will be needed, and after flowering it is better to use phosphorus fertilizers. But during flowering there is no need to fertilize. After pruning, you can use copper sulfate - 20 g per bucket. In spring, clematis needs to be watered with lime milk - dolomite flour and chalk are used. If the summer is too rainy, it is recommended to sprinkle bottom part trunk with ordinary wood ash to prevent the process of rotting of the root system.

It is imperative to prepare supports for clematis Justa. Pyramids, fan-type structures, crayfish, etc. are suitable. But it must be taken into account that the thickness of the part of the structure for which the vine will be fixed should be no more than 12 mm in diameter. When clematis grows, it becomes very heavy, especially after rainfall. This also applies to representatives of the Yusta variety. This is why the structure must be made of durable material. You can build a pipe from metal mesh. It should be rolled up and buried deep in the ground. The result will be a kind of openwork structure, inside which clematis will grow. It will cover the mesh itself with its inflorescences and leaves.

Another important point is the insulation of clematis Justa before the onset of winter. On a non-rainy day, you need to pour a bucket of humus under the trunk. Pre-mix it with foliage. The root collar should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate with a 2% concentration. After this, hilling is carried out. Sand and wood ash are used (250 g per bucket of the basic composition). The layer should be about 15 cm thick.

Then you need to bend all the shoots to the ground. It is recommended to twist them at the base. Then cover with spruce branches and dry leaves. Still suitable crushed foam. After this, cover with a wooden box to form an air cushion around the plant. Then use roofing felt or other similar material with waterproof properties. Secure these layers with bricks or stones so that they do not blow away due to strong wind. On top you can additionally make a layer of peat 20 cm thick.

At the beginning of spring, the film with the top layer needs to be removed, and the foliage and spruce branches are left until the time when it is already known for sure that frost will not return. After this, the shoots are lifted and secured on supports.

Clematis Justa suffers from fungal infections. This also applies to fading. The tissues gradually become less elastic, wither and dry out. To prevent the development of such a disease, it is necessary to water the vine with a 2% solution of Fundazol in May. You can also use Azocene. Such tools cope with powdery mildew and gray rot. If the vine is completely damaged, then it should be dug up along with a lump of earth and destroyed, and the ground around it should be disinfected.