Connection diagram for electric boiler zota smart 9 sq. Zota electric boilers: review of models, reviews from owners. Combined heating boiler ZOTA “Mix”

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Zota electric boilers are produced at the Krasnoyarsk Heating Equipment and Automation Plant. They have been known to the Russian market for quite a long time, so we can say with confidence that buyers have already become convinced of their reliability and quality. The manufacturer produces boilers of both economy class and luxury class. By and large, the former are in no way inferior in quality to the latter.

In the article we will consider the range of these boilers, their most popular models, the connection of these heating devices, operating rules and, of course, we will touch upon the reviews of the owners.

You can find out the price and buy heating equipment and related products from us. Write, call and come to one of the stores in your city. Delivery throughout the Russian Federation and CIS countries.

Zota Lux with GSM control

Features of Zota electric boilers and product range

When producing the Zota electric boiler, the manufacturer does everything possible to ensure that the products maintain their brand, are of high quality, in demand, and modern. That is why this Russian company currently occupies a leading position in the heating devices market. The units produced are reliable, economical, almost all have a remote control function, and they meet the requirements of modern standards.

The Zota brand produces heating equipment for buildings for various purposes, including country houses, industrial premises, administrative buildings, warehouses, etc.

The power of Zota electric boilers ranges from 3 to 400 kW (for heating rooms from 30 to 4000 m², respectively). The units are controlled using remote or built-in remote controls, as well as smartphones via GSM channels.

Buyers have a choice among five model series.

Model range	Peculiarities
This is a budget electric boiler for residential premises and buildings up to 480 m². The line is distinguished by its simplicity and attractive prices.
This line includes particularly powerful heating devices that are designed to heat rooms from 600 to 4000 m².
This is an electric boiler with a GSM module for remote control. The line is equipped with all kinds of electronics.
ZOTA MK	Mini boiler rooms with remote control. Manufactured specifically for heating rooms from 30 to 360 m².
ZOTA Lux	This Zota Lux electric boiler is small-sized, has many functions and an advanced design. Equipped with GSM modules and temperature correction circuits.

Let's take a closer look at these lines:

1. Zota Economy. This line is represented by simple electric boilers designed for heating various types of buildings. Low-power options are perfect for installing a heating system in the house. The standard boiler kit has a remote control, which provides automatic temperature control. Zota electric boilers are simple, but they have a self-diagnosis system. For greater reliability and extension of the operating period, the manufacturer added rotation systems for power units and tubular electric heaters to the units.
2. Zota Prom. This is a line of fairly powerful heating devices that are designed for heating large buildings. They are also used to connect the hot water supply circuit. All modifications are installed on the floor and have automatic systems. According to reviews from owners, Zota Prom electric boilers have a long service life. As the manufacturer confirms, this is due to the rotation system of tubular electric heaters. The unit is controlled using remote controls.



Electric boilers ZOTA Prom

3. Zota Smart. This line is characterized by the presence of sophisticated electronic controls. Models are equipped with automation systems, weather-sensitive sensors, heating and pump control systems, and self-diagnosis systems. All Zota Smart models that can be found on the market have built-in GSM modules for remote control. Tubular electric heaters in the design of heating devices are made of high-quality stainless steel, there are many sensors, ports for control and circulation pumps.



Model 2014 ZOTA Smart

4. Zota MK. This includes not simple boilers, but mini-boiler rooms. They are distinguished by the presence of a built-in piping - inside there is an expansion tank of 12 liters, circulation pump And security group. The Zota MK electric boiler is controlled using a built-in remote control; new models have the ability to install GSM modules. The boilers in this line are small and neat in design.



Zota 12 MK


5. Zota Lux. These models are designed for heating residential buildings and industrial premises. They have smooth power adjustment, protection systems, remote control, external equipment control systems and high-quality tubular electric heaters. As a bonus - built-in weather-dependent automation and the ability to work with two-tariff meters. Zota Lux electric boilers will be an excellent solution for providing heating to private homes. The devices are characterized by a long service life and modern functional equipment.

Popular Zota boiler models

Electric boiler Zota Economy

The most popular model today remains the electric boiler. Zota 6 kW Economy. This is a fairly simple model that is installed on the wall and controlled using a remote control (purchased separately). The boiler can operate from both single-phase and three-phase networks. The difference between Zota 6 Economy is three-stage power control, electronic control and overheating protection. If desired, you can equip a heating system with warm floors. The power of the model is suitable for heating an area of ​​60 m².

No less popular boilers are Zota 7.5 Lux, Zota 9 Lux, Zota 12 Lux. The power of the models is indicated in the numerical indices of the listed boilers. All options are designed for heating only and are equipped with electronic control. Built-in programmers, self-diagnosis and security systems are available. Models can also be connected to underfloor heating systems and room thermostats. Modular control possible.

Modifications with a power of 7.5 and 9 kW can operate from single-phase networks, while the Zota 12 kW Lux electric boiler operates only from a three-phase network. The reason is high power consumption.

It is impossible not to mention the Zota electric boiler, reviews of which are always only positive. More precisely, this is a mini-boiler room model Zota 12 MK. It is designed to heat houses and buildings up to 120 m². A small boiler room has programmers, security group, circulation pump and security systems. Operates from a three-phase power supply network. More modern models (after 2012) have the ability to use GSM.

Installation and connection

Installing a Zota electric boiler is not difficult, and it does not imply any additions in the form circulation pump or other equipment. Low-power Econom models can be connected to a standard 220 Volt electrical network. The connection diagram can be found in the instructions.

For more powerful heating devices, you will need a 380 Volt network. The technical characteristics of the boiler are such that the equipment will function even if overloads and surges occur in the power supply network.

It is connected to the control unit. All options require an Internet connection. You can download a special application to your mobile phone and control the electric boiler from a distance without difficulty. If desired, you can configure the system to start at a time and change the intensity of space heating based on the selected mode.

Piping an electric boiler may require the installation of a filtration system for hot water supply and heating replenishment.

Owner's review of the Zota electric boiler. They seem to be good boilers, but they also seem disgusting. The usual Russian assembly with savings on materials has an effect. It seems that when selecting components, no one takes into account their short service life. Glitchy automation, sticky relays, strange operation of temperature sensors. But there are also advantages - convenient control, ease of installation, cost-effectiveness (it adjusts itself to the air temperature). If several shortcomings are eliminated, truly high-quality equipment will appear on our market, which will compete with imported boilers. So far, in terms of quality, I give it a four minus. Konstantin

Important features of the boiler operation

The GSM module can be built into all Zota models. It is not included in the standard equipment of the boiler, so it will have to be purchased separately. Installation and launch of the module is also ordered. The remote control can be installed in any room.

According to reviews from owners, Zota electric boilers are characterized by the following features of use:

1. Calculation of the boiler by area. Often, electricity is overused precisely because the device’s performance was calculated incorrectly. The power calculation must be 10-15% greater than the actual need.
   Excessive supply causes the boiler to overheat and often blow out plugs in the room.
2. Service maintenance. You cannot connect the GSM module yourself. To connect to the electrical network, you will also need to call a specialist. The service worker will also install the air temperature sensor. From time to time you will have to adjust the water sensor for hot water supply.

Compatible with gas and solid fuel boilers

Zota electric boilers have an operating principle that allows them to be installed in conjunction with solid fuel and gas boilers. As a rule, in such a scheme, the electric boiler serves as a backup heating source. It maintains the required heating of the liquid and replenishes the needs of hot water supply.

Zota heating equipment has proven itself to be reliable and economical. Its main drawback is only the difficult connection of remote control. There are minor design flaws, but they absolutely do not affect the operating efficiency and ease of use.

All Zota electric boilers are easy to use and reliable. By purchasing such a heating unit, you do not have to worry about it completing all assigned tasks and functioning properly.

Heating systems of modern houses involve the use of boilers. The variety of their types according to the type of raw materials used determines how to install boilers in heating systems

Choice

Modern heating equipment can use natural gas, electricity or solid fuel. Installation of heating boilers requires compliance with special requirements for installation and operation.

Heating systems with gas units are popular for use in a private home. Natural gas is an inexpensive and efficient fuel. Of course, this is only possible for those regions where there are main gas pipelines and supplying gas to the house does not cause any difficulties.

At the same time, we must not forget that gas is a highly dangerous environment due to its explosiveness. When choosing gas installations, you need to remember the following differences:

• manufacturer and price segment;
• power consumption;
• number of circuits - single-circuit and double-circuit models;
• type of installation (floor or wall);
• method of cleaning exhaust gases.

Wall-mounted gas installations are very popular - they are easy to install and small in size.

The equipment of such a unit includes a burner, an expansion tank, a circulation pump (one or more), a pressure gauge and thermometer, a heat exchanger, and an exhaust gas removal circuit (natural or forced). For safety, the equipment is equipped with special sensors.

The main advantage of these compact boilers over units operating on other types of fuel is the complete absence of waste during operation (including the absence of combustion products). It is believed that this is the most environmentally (and aesthetically) clean type of heating in a private home. But, at the same time, perhaps the most expensive. Boilers can be installed on the floor or on the wall. Depending on the type of heating, such settings are:

• heating elements;
• induction;
• electrode.

The design of heating element boilers is quite simple. Several heating elements are placed in a container with distilled water or ethylene glycol-based antifreeze liquid. Depending on the set heating temperature, either all heating elements work, or only part of them. This design is very primitive and is partly considered obsolete.

The operating principle of an induction boiler is based on electromagnetic induction. To put it simply, a core is placed in a dielectric pipe, which is heated by the current of an electric coil around the pipe. The core heats the water that flows through the pipe.

The design is simple, and thanks to this, even very powerful installations are small in size.

The principle of operation of the electrode unit uses a law of physics based on the heating of water due to resistance when an electric current is passed through it. The water must have a special concentration of salts. These devices are safer than the previous two, since if water leaks from the heating tank, the unit automatically stops working.

Now this equipment is used to heat houses where natural gas heating is not possible. Such boilers operate on various types of solid fuel, but the main type is traditionally firewood. Heating equipment of this type is very similar to a stove, but at the same time meets all safety standards and modern quality requirements for similar installations.

The boilers have in their design a combustion chamber, a heat exchanger, a loading hopper, a chimney, nozzles, a control unit and a hot gas exhaust chamber. Installation of boilers is carried out only on the foundation. They have quite large overall dimensions and weight.

Installation features

As mentioned earlier, depending on the type of installation, there are various options for their installation, but it should be noted that all systems operate on the principle of heating water during its circulation and direct interaction with the heaters. So how can you connect heating equipment with your own hands?

We install a gas boiler

As a rule, installing heating boilers of this type in a private house requires a separate non-residential premises (boiler room). This is necessary for the removal of combustion products, that is, for the installation of a chimney. The boiler room must be equipped with flow ventilation. A hole is made under the ceiling for air outlet, and for air inflow - 30 cm from the floor level. Floor-standing boilers are installed using:

• welding machine;
• drills and drill sets;
• keys, including gas keys;
• set of screwdrivers;
• metal scissors;
• building level;
• tape measure and marker.

Preparation and connection

The surface for installation must be strong and level, and ideally a foundation should be poured. To ensure safety during operation of the equipment, it is necessary to place a sheet of iron on the foundation. The first step is to install the chimney and check for draft. Then connect the boiler to the internal heating system: in front of the return entrance of the pipeline, install a filter that protects the heat exchanger from clogging, and the tap into the water supply should be located as close as possible to the entrance of the water pipe into the room.

This scheme will ensure high pressure in the system and a constant supply of water.

Shut-off valves (valves) must be installed on incoming and outgoing water pipes connected to the unit.

This is necessary to dismantle equipment without discharging water. It should be noted that installation of gas equipment is carried out only after agreement with the supervisory authorities with the involvement of certified gas service specialists. Don't skimp on safety!

Installation of this equipment in a house does not require a chimney and approval from regulatory authorities. The only requirement is that the electrical wiring is in good working order. The connection diagram is quite simple. In addition to the boiler, it includes temperature sensors on the pipelines, a heating radiator, drain and shut-off valves, an expansion tank and a filter with a circulation pump. You will also need a voltage stabilizer, since electric boilers are sensitive to voltage drops, and they are inevitable in the electrical network.

When installing, you must try to isolate it from the water supply system so that if a pipe breaks, water does not enter the unit, causing a short circuit. The installation room must be thermally insulated to prevent the formation of condensation - it can also lead to serious damage. The boiler must be installed on a flat surface.

To connect equipment, couplings and adapters are used. First, you need to turn off the water supply in the water supply using ball valves. The connection is made in accordance with the installation diagram attached to the accompanying documentation. The circuit assumes the presence of grounding, installation of a circuit breaker, as well as an RCD for short circuit protection.

Cables must be installed in cable ducts, and the electrical part of the equipment is protected by a casing. The unit itself must be securely fastened. And only after that you can let water into the heating system and check the functionality of the equipment.

Installation of solid fuel units

These units are installed in a private house in dry rooms, the dimensions of which are directly proportional to the dimensions and power of the unit. The walls of the boiler room must be plastered or covered with sheet iron. Their connection diagram implies the presence of supply and exhaust ventilation, which will provide good draft.

The boiler is installed level on a horizontal foundation covered with a layer of sheet iron. The foundation should be 10 cm larger than the base of the unit along its entire perimeter. The safety zone on the firebox side is at least 40 cm.

There are installation standards for operational safety, which are specified in the installation requirements or are freely available in open sources of information. They must be followed!

Tools and materials

To connect to the heating system you need to purchase:

• two ball valves with a coupling-fitting connection with a diameter of 50 mm;
• two bends of the same diameter;
• pressure gauge;
• safety valve;
• automatic air vent;
• two ball valves with a diameter of 15 mm;
• three steel couplings with a diameter of 50 mm;
• transitions 57 x 32 mm with a wall of 3 mm;
• bends 57 x 3.5 mm;
• chimney with gate valve;
• pipes 57 x 3.5 mm;
• heat-resistant sealant;
• plumbing winding;
• circulation pump.

Harness

The unit's piping is equipped with a safety system, which consists of a heat accumulator, a three-way valve for mixing cold water, and a thermostat. What to do:

1. place the boiler on the foundation;
2. connect the heating pipes with the obligatory use of ball valves, sealing the joints with plumbing tape;
3. make grounding and connect the power cable;
4. install a safety system (pressure gauge, safety valve, automatic air vent);
5. assemble the chimney, sealing the joints of the elbows with heat-resistant sealant;
6. fill the heat exchanger with water;
7. check the location of the grate, ignition valve, cleaning plug, etc.;
8. Reduce the pressure in the heat exchanger to operating level;
9. install the dampers in the chimney and firebox to the required position;
10. carry out laying firewood.

In general, any heating equipment can be connected to a heating system with your own hands if you use the right approach and have basic knowledge and skills.

The main issue that will be discussed in this article is a typical diagram for connecting an electric heating boiler to a 220 and 380 Volt network. That is why the main bias will be directed only at the rules and sequence of connecting wires. As for the installation diagram of radiators, piping and other elements of the central heating system, we will provide it only in general form.

Installation options

So, first, let’s look at the options for connecting an electric boiler in a private house or apartment with our own hands:

• If the power of the water heater does not exceed 3.5 kW, then it is usually powered from an outlet. In this case, the use of a single-phase 220V network is allowed.
• In the event that the power varies between 3.5-7 kW, it is necessary to carry out the electrical installation yourself directly from the junction box. This is due to the fact that the outlet may not withstand high current loads. As in the previous case, a 220-volt network is allowed for use.
• Well, the last option that may come up is an electric boiler with a power of over 7 kW. In this case, it is necessary not only to run a separate cable from the distribution box, but also to use a more powerful 3-phase 380V network.

Electrical installation in a single-phase network

As we have already said, you can connect the water heater to a single-phase network through a plug or a separately powered cable. There is no point in even stopping at the first option, because... Anyone can insert a plug into a socket.

As for the second option, first you need to carry out (if the required diameter of the cores is not indicated in the product passport), and then bring the conductor to the place. Then everything is simple - we connect the phase, neutral and grounding to the corresponding terminals in the unit (they are marked on them). For your attention, a schematic diagram of connecting an electric boiler with a thermostat to the heating system:

Electrical installation in a three-phase network

The diagram for connecting an electric boiler to a three-phase network is more complex, but even a beginner can do it.

The three phases must be connected as follows:

Please pay attention to the following nuances:

1. Each water heater comes with a technical passport, which must indicate the manufacturer’s recommended wiring diagram for the electric boiler. Be guided only by this document in your case, because... The examples provided on the Internet may not always be suitable for your heating system.
2. Be sure to protect the boiler and... These devices will prevent overload of the unit, short circuit and current leakage in the electrical network.
3. The wiring must be grounded.

For your attention, a visual project of electric heating in a two-story dacha using a boiler:

Zota electric boilers - Installation, operation, troubleshooting

What is required to install a Zota electric boiler?

When deciding to install an electric boiler, you first need to make sure that the electrical power allocated to your home will be sufficient. Please keep in mind that in addition to the boiler, you will be using other electrical appliances. To install a heating system, you need to obtain permission for the project from the energy supervision authority. It is important that electrical wiring is carried out in accordance with regulations. Depending on the power of the device, select the cross-section for its power cable. For example, for 4 kW the cross section is 4 square meters. mm, and for 12 kW - 16 sq. mm. The installed safety circuit breakers will also differ. The heating system uses an expansion tank and shut-off valves. You will also need a mesh filter for water purification if it is not included with the device.

How to reduce energy costs?

Electric boilers provide the possibility of stepwise power adjustment. This allows you to reduce energy consumption in the off-season. If your region has introduced a payment tariff that differs by day zone, then you need to install a tariff counter. At the same time, a significant reduction in costs will be provided by a thermal accumulator. It will accumulate heat at night when a cheaper electricity tariff is in effect. A programmer that automatically maintains and regulates the heating temperature will help you save money. Good home insulation is of great importance. This is especially important when it comes to heating a small country house of an old building. When using modern thermal insulation materials, a significant energy saving effect can be obtained.

How is the heating controlled?

The degree of heating of the coolant can be changed using a regulator located on the housing. Many devices also have a power switch. For example, in cold weather the boiler will work at full capacity, and in warm weather - at half power. If the house is well heated, energy consumption can also be reduced. The device itself has a sensor that takes measurements in the heat exchanger. The specified parameter is maintained by turning the unit on and off. Remote devices include room thermostats and programmers. They are more convenient to use, as they control the operation of the electric boiler in accordance with the room temperature. When using a thermostat, you do not set the water temperature, but immediately determine the conditions that are comfortable for you. The programmer determines the heating schedule by day of the week and by hour each day.

Malfunction of the electric boiler Zota Lux 9. For a month it worked stably, the water temperature was initially set to 55 degrees, and then to 60, it was connected rarely and not for a long time. In recent days, from time to time I notice that the water cools down to 25-30 degrees, but the heating elements do not turn on. The only thing that helps is turning off the device from the mains for 5-10 minutes. As soon as I turn it back on, stage 1 is activated and the device heats the water to 60 degrees. The time when this problem occurs is constantly changing, the time mode is set to 0, the air indicator is connected (the temperature is set to 25 degrees, in the room 23), the water is set to 60 degrees, the unit is in mode based on the water temperature.

Installed Zota Lux several years ago. After some time I encountered a similar problem (there was a stuck relay). Replaced thanks to the warranty card. At the end of last year the problem recurred. I disconnected some relays, and now one heating element is working in constant mode (in addition to the electric convectors, that’s enough for now). In the future, I plan to completely get rid of automated relays, install a separate machine on each heating element and get rid of this problem for a long time.

What is the difference between electric boilers Zota 3-15 and 18-48? How do they differ from this line?

Of course, the price gradually increases from 3 thousand to 15 thousand, and then a rapid jump to 18 thousand, and again a gradual increase. Almost a similar story with heaviness, only it is identical for 3-15, and 1.5 times more for 18-48. And their documentation is different. But they differ in nothing but power. Right now I’m choosing between Zota MK-15 or 18, if the latter option is better in some way, not taking into account
power, then I'll take it, but so far I haven't been able to find any information.

The difference is in the number of heating elements and power boards. From 18 to 48 kW, 3 heating elements units and 3 power units (relays) are installed in the electric boiler. In models 18, for example, 3 to 6. And in models 3-15, 1 block is installed - heating element and 1 relay. This explains the price increase.

We installed and connected a Zota econom 6 kW electric boiler. I haven’t tried turning it on yet, I’m getting ready for winter. I don't quite understand the indicators. One is for the street, and the other is for indoors, and the 3rd one is built into the water. Two indicators have wires 40 centimeters long. Is this a joke from the manufacturer? Of course, they could probably be lengthened, but still. And another question: is it possible not to touch these indicators at all?
Set it according to the water temperature, and then I’ll see if this is enough or not?

It is also possible without indicators, but I installed an indicator in the room to monitor the accuracy of the sensor and room thermometer readings. In my case, the thermometer and indicator are identical. The wire can be extended with a twisted pair, connected by twisting and wrapped with electrical tape.

Help me understand the operating principle of the Zota Lux 9 electric boiler. After a month of use, I had several questions, the answers to which I did not find in the instructions. How can I make it use all three heating elements simultaneously to heat the water? At the moment the situation is this: it works in conjunction with a pellet dispenser (connected to a hydraulic switch), it starts at night, an indicator is connected,
showing the room temperature. The outside temperature indicator was not connected. The mode was set to precise. The setting room temperature is 25 degrees, the water heating temperature is 90 degrees. Power 9kW. When the room temperature drops to 23 degrees, the unit turns on one stage and begins to heat the water, but the power is not enough and the air temperature drops even lower, to 22 degrees, after which it turns on the 2nd heating element - and the temperature begins to drop again. At the same time, the water does not warm up more than 45 degrees. In other words, the heat loss is about 5 kW and the device should have enough power, but it does not process it accurately. The heating elements are all in working order, their overhaul is normal. If you set the temperature delta above 4 degrees, then all heating elements work. Is it possible to configure it so that the device controls include not just 1 heating element, but all of them at once? Perhaps it’s worth removing the temperature indicator and letting it try to warm up the water, and let the excess cut off the thermal heads on the radiators?

Some time ago I used the Zota MK electric boiler, this is the same luxury, only with a pump and a protection group. If I remember everything correctly, then the power of the heating elements in it is determined not by the delta of the target and actual temperatures, but by the difference between the supply and return. In any case, I can say with confidence that when the room temperature dropped by at least 1 degree, all 3 12 kW heating elements turned on, then the steps gradually snapped off as they approached the setting 60 degrees. In your case, I believe the settings have failed or the automation control is malfunctioning. But in general, 90 degrees is too much for such models. Try lowering it, maybe it will start functioning better. External indicators were also present. Surprisingly, 90 degrees is the limit. I remember, in my case, the setting in the menu for water temperature is the current temperature of the coolant, which it maintains +/- 5 degrees. I admit that MK has changed the operating principle. Maybe in your case the weather control is connected, so the device heats according to a curve? Or the opposite situation, as another option, turn on the weather indicator, choosing the most suitable curve for your room? In this option, it must heat the water to a given temperature.

There is a problem with the Zota Lux 6 kW electric boiler. Error H5 began to appear. Moreover, it worked and stopped - it began to respond with a squeak to a breakdown. There is pressure in the system, air has been released in all places. Why could such a problem arise? How to check for air pockets in the boiler? (although I don’t understand how he could have stayed there). Maybe someone who has the same model can tell me - should the air indicator (side) be held tightly? In my case, when trying to tighten the nut on the rod, it turns in a circle.

Try connecting the level indicator wire and the ground bolt on the heat exchanger, if this does not help, then the problem is with the remote control. If this solves the problem, then the temperature level indicator is unusable. You need to unscrew it and clean it, cut off the transparent insulator, most often this helps. Or change the level indicator.

We installed and connected an electric boiler Zota econom, area 140 square meters by 12 kW. At the moment the outside temperature is 0 degrees, I have 3 to 6 kW running all the time. I set the water temperature to 50 degrees, but it warms up to 47 degrees. The room temperature is 24 degrees, I set the outdoor indicator in the house from Zota, which was included in the kit, but did not install the outdoor one. The outdoor room indicator also shows 24 degrees on it. In order to heat the water to 60 degrees, I set the indicator to warm up to 30 degrees and, accordingly, the water to 60, in this case it warms up to 55 degrees, operating at 6 kW, the maximum room temperature is 25 degrees. It turns out there is not enough power to heat the entire area. Regarding the oddities in the control of the device: quite a long switching on when the temperature drops according to the external room indicator, about 3 degrees, it turns out as follows: set it to 23 degrees, until the temperature of the area reaches 20 degrees, it will not normally warm up to 23 degrees. A street thermometer cannot be trusted at all,
It's 3 degrees outside, but it shows all 11 degrees, so I turn it off. The settings are set to 0 mode.

The Zota MK-3 electric boiler has been in operation for more than 3 years, I am completely satisfied, but I hope there is a small problem. I’ve never used a thermostat before, but this time I look at the screen, the lamp is on, indicating that the thermostat is connected, I go to the menu - mode, and there, instead of selecting the thermostat mode, error H9 is displayed, I press enter, no reaction (nothing switches). I didn't find anything in the manual about this error. Maybe someone had something similar? I am resetting all device settings. The thermostat sensor goes out, but after a while it turns on again. At night, because of this problem, it did not warm up.

Turn it off. Open the case and unscrew the cover from the control unit (in the place where all the buttons and sensor are located). Look at the control board. Disconnect 2 chips. There is a battery mounted on the control board, remove it. Next, connect again. We reset the boiler settings to factory settings. To do this, hold down the up/down buttons and immediately turn on the automatic control of the device, it should make a sound. If everything works, the thermostat sensor will turn off and will not turn on on its own. You will need to buy a new battery and put it in the board (optional). If this does not work, then the board must be replaced. Or you can try connecting an outdoor thermostat (theoretically) to the connector
T1 and T2. If you disconnect the power and plug it back in, the thermostat will connect again. It is recommended that after each disconnection from the network, reset it to factory settings.

Zota Lux is in operation at 12 kW. There's a problem that I can't figure out. Maybe someone had a similar situation, and you can advise something from personal experience. The boiler is operating for the first season. Heats water for a water floor. I regulate it by setting the water temperature on the unit. At the moment it has become warmer, and on the sunny side I am blocking the contours myself, and this is more than half of the 1st floor. I noticed that when the 1st circuit is closed, the other 2 always keep the water within 50 degrees. Although I set it to 45, it still holds 50 degrees. Moreover, the Tens do not function, at least the indication does not light up. It holds exactly 50 degrees, no more. The entire period of cold weather worked properly, it will heat up to 50 and drop to 47, it will heat up again, and so on. If I currently set it to more than 50, then the heating elements turn on and the indication lights up. For example, I set it to 55 degrees, 1 heating element turns on, I set it to 90 degrees - all the heating elements turn on at once, I lower it to 40, then it stays at 50. But it’s not clear how. In this case, the heating elements are not connected. It’s clear that it’s not out of nowhere
The water is warming up, although the indicator does not light up, but it is probably heating up. When you turn off these heating elements using the menu (power is 0), it again remains at 50 degrees. Well, when the device is disconnected from the electricity, the temperature begins to drop. Recently the water temperature was set at 50 degrees. As soon as I connect the circuits, it works properly. That is, it works intermittently with small volumes of water. What could be the problem? I found out that the problem is exclusively on short circuits, with a small volume of water. To be honest, back in the winter I noticed its automation; it was somehow incomprehensible. In this case, I’m talking about the automatic switching of heating elements. If you want to achieve a certain temperature, for example, 50 degrees, then you need to set it a few degrees more, because when it almost reaches 50 degrees, it stops 1 heating element and tries to gain the missing couple of degrees with 1 heating element. Naturally, he is unable to do this, so the temperature drops, the 2nd stage is switched on a little lower and everything goes in a circle.

Incomprehensible explanations - heating elements do not work, but the temperature remains constant. Try to determine using a meter, if of course they are connected. The heating elements are connected cyclically to maintain the temperature. The less water in the system, the shorter the period for connecting the heating elements. If you manage to catch the moment when the meter is winding up, but there is no heating indication, you will understand exactly what the reason is. When set
temperature is 45 degrees, having 49 is normal.

There were problems with Zota econom 15. It began to turn off and reconnect on its own when the heating was turned on with an interval of 1 second. All this is accompanied by a kind of click, as at the moment of switching on and lighting up - the heating indicator lamp on the control panel goes out. The most interesting thing is that this does not happen immediately, but after a while after turning on the heating, I assume it will warm up to the set value, and the higher the heating level, the shorter the time after which the boiler will begin to turn off and turn on on its own.

The electronic module (board) in the control unit is presumably damaged.

The Zota MK-9 boiler began to dump water. The problem is the following, in the first year I installed a boiler room, the water pressure was 1.5, the air pressure in the expansion tank was 1.3-1.5, everything worked properly, I never had to top up. The following winter, before the cold weather, I brought the pressure up to 1.8 atmospheres and turned it on, until the end of winter the pressure dropped to 1.1 atmospheres. This year I brought the pressure up to 1.9 atmospheres and turned it on. Everything is here and
started, the emergency valve began to discharge water in large quantities from time to time, sometimes 0.5 cups, and sometimes even several liters. The pressure did not reach the emergency level, I constantly monitor this and the pressure is 1.9-2.0 all the time. And this has happened more than 3 times during the winter. Maybe some of you have had something similar? What could it be? I assume that this is a problem with the emergency valve or pressure in
expansion tank.

You should check the pressure in the expansion tank. The circulation may be disrupted or the sump tank may be clogged.

I am interested in your opinion, if you install an external room thermostat, what operating mechanism will it have? Will stage 1 function in the same way at the set temperature or will more be connected? Otherwise, in my case, a problem arose - the device is set to 24 degrees according to the air indicator, but it warms up to 23 and maintains 1-stage water temperature at 43 degrees and does not turn off. How to fix such a problem? Boiler Zota Lux 15 kW.

This will not happen with a room temperature controller. In general, I recommend, if possible, to refrain from using such a device, since it is not reliable. Especially if it runs on antifreeze. I have the same one that burned down. Well, or at least make backup protection systems. In my case, the boiler heated up to 120 degrees and began to melt, emitting acrid smoke, and the factory protection did not
it worked.

Who knows for what reasons the electric boiler could catch fire?

Safety system failure due to overheating. Most likely, the relay is stuck, which is why the protection did not work. The boiler heated up, boiled away, then melted from the inside, because the heating elements began to heat the apparatus itself.

We need your advice on how to install overheating protection on the Zota Lux 9 electric boiler. I often see comments that the relay is stuck and therefore the protection system does not work, but I have not found information on how to connect an emergency shutdown. I purchased it without reading customer reviews, and when I read it, it was too late to change anything, now I’m afraid to turn it on at night, and I don’t yet have options for other heating. I’ve been using it for 3 weeks now, but I can’t say anything about maintaining the set temperature (it works properly).

The meaning of self-protection is that the indicator is irreversible on the flask of the device, set to 90 degrees, that is, if the temperature of the flask has reached this point, it is triggered. This indicator is connected to a starter independent of the boiler. There are models that have starters rather than relays as control elements, but they do not need such protection. You buy a relay, a starter for the required current and place it on the input, in front of its terminal block. The relay is attached to the body of the bulb from above. The starter coil is powered through a relay from any phase.

There were problems with Zota econom 6. It worked fine for several seasons. In the spring it started clicking, turning on and off. Didn't use it in summer. At the moment the clicking continues. And so on for a long time. I checked the voltage drops in the network - everything is fine, I didn’t find any surges, the heating elements are in good condition, there is no air in the system, the pressure is 1 atmosphere, the pump is working properly. We came to the conclusion that this could have happened due to the air indicator, and turned it off. History repeats itself. When the coolant temperature rises, it warms up, but upon reaching the set temperature, it begins to disconnect and reconnect continuously. What could it be?

The water temperature indicator or the electronic module in the control unit has gone wrong. But, first of all, it is necessary to replace the water temperature indicator.

I decided to check my Zota Lux 6 indicator. And not only heating, but also level. I looked at the indicator “live” and it was screwed in at the top. In my case it didn't work. But, as far as I understand, the sound and display on the screen simply informs that an accident has occurred. The signal goes to the power part and turns it off. After complete cooling, turn on.

Look carefully. From it there are 2 thin wires going to the control unit. He, in turn, sends a signal to the heating element control relay, and it opens. But since the relay is completely welded, it does not respond to signals from the control unit. You need to open the front cover of the device and notice that the phase output circuit breakers go directly to the relay block and directly to the heating element. Therefore, the security system must break the circuit to the relay or directly in the heating element itself.

We use Zota econom 9 kW. The device works stably, but there was a similar failure when the temperature in the room where the boiler was installed reached 28 degrees. Despite the fact that the room temperature indicator was set to 20 degrees. In fact, sticking of the contacts could occur, but in this case the temperature on the 1st circuit quickly increased. As a last resort, you can reset everything to factory settings. The fact that 50 degrees is displayed all the time does not say anything, measure the real temperature at the outlet. Are there any switching clicks on the relay?

Many people say that it is common for temperature sensors to lie by a few degrees. After opening the box with the indicator, I saw that it was installed - LM335. This is a high-precision temperature indicator of sorts, equipped with a third pin for calibration using a 10k potentiometer. I'll try to do the calibration with an accurate thermometer.

I’m planning to install a Zota MK 6 kW, but I can’t decide which one to install: luxury or economy. There is a difference in price, but I didn’t find any significant differences (not counting the specificity of installing the control unit). Another very interesting question concerns electricity consumption.

The boiler's electricity consumption depends entirely on heat loss and the area of ​​the heated room. Surely, you understand, if you turn it on at full power outside, it will consume 6 kW per hour. And if you install it in a well-insulated small house, then it will turn on no more than several times a day. Regarding the model (luxury or economy), I recommend just reading the instructions for these devices. For example, it can be programmed, it is equipped with auxiliary indicators, you can connect a GSM module to it and control it using a smartphone.

Problems Zota Lux 15 does not respond to button presses. The impression is that there is no contact directly in the buttons, because it died gradually, at first (down) it did not function, then (select). All are not working at the moment. Restarting didn't help. What should I do?

What can I recommend, just replace the remote control! Alternatively, you can try removing the remote control, disassembling it and putting it back together again. This means removing the back cover and control board. Then put everything back in its place. I encountered something similar; when installing the module, it seemed that the buttons were compressed, made them weaker, and everything was fine.

We installed and connected Zota lux 12 kW. We've been using it for a little over a year. Last year (in winter) everything worked fine. But at the moment, it seems that it does not have enough power to warm up. I checked the voltage in the network - it is normal. I did a factory reset and installed it again. The indicator displays the water temperature at 85 degrees, but in reality it is a maximum of 60.

If the temperature displayed is normal, then air has probably accumulated in the system during inactivity. You first need to bleed all the batteries.

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Content

1. Coal heating boiler ZOTA “Carbon”
2. Combined heating boiler ZOTA “Mix”
3. Boiler ZOTA “Topol M” on coal and wood
4. Domestic boiler with hob ZOTA “Master”
5. Floor-standing combi boiler ZOTA “Dymok M”

Introduction

In our review today we will talk about ZOTA combination boilers, which can operate on coal and wood, as well as gas and diesel fuel. We will try to talk in detail about the advantages of each model, design features, and technical characteristics. We will also provide reviews from owners from specialized forums about their experience in installing and using Zota hot water boilers in the heating system of a country house.

Solid fuel boilers ZOTA are produced by the Krasnoyarsk Heating Equipment and Automation Plant. In addition to solid fuel devices, the company also produces electric boilers and various devices for automation of heat supply, as well as heating elements of various modifications and capacities. The line of solid fuel boilers is represented by the Carbon, Master, Mix, and Dymok series. We'll talk about them today.

Coal heating boiler ZOTA “Carbon”

The ZOTA Carbon boiler has been produced by the Krasnoyarskenergokomplekt company since 2013. The device is made of high-quality steel and is intended for heating residential and industrial premises with an area of ​​up to 600 m². The line includes 7 standard sizes with power from 15 to 60 kW.

Photo 1: Domestic heating boiler ZOTA “Carbon”

ZOTA "Carbon" has a unique design. Let's carefully examine its main advantages:

• The main feature of the Carbon series is a large firebox with top loading and adjustable air supply. It is convenient to replenish the boiler with a new portion of fuel, and its battery life increases to 11 hours.
• The steel body is made of corrosion-resistant steel. This reduces the cost and also eliminates the main disadvantage of steel boilers - the tendency to corrosion.
• The combustion chamber is designed in such a way that combustion occurs in a certain area, which in turn makes a significant contribution to increasing the duration of operation on one load. With the help of fireclay, you can burn off the emanating gases, which turns the device into a kind of fireplace.
• The three-pass heat exchanger and the location of the ash pan within it significantly increases heat removal, thereby increasing the operating efficiency of the solid fuel boiler and its efficiency.
• The design of the heat exchanger and the movable grate make cleaning extremely convenient and fast.
• In addition to working on coal, it is possible to install a heating element with a power of up to 9 kW with a control unit.

Photo 2: Electric heating elements for Zota boilers

Let's look at the main technical characteristics of those listed on the official website:

Here's what home owners say about their experience:

For a house of 150 m² (siding + polystyrene foam (10 cm) + tuff block), I installed a 32 kW model with a reserve, since I heard that a power reserve is necessary. The boiler maintains a comfortable temperature even in the most severe frosts. The bunker can easily accommodate 2 buckets of coal. The maximum consumption per day was 5 buckets. I use it around the clock, at night I connect the heating elements at the night rate. I noticed that in non-stop mode it works much more efficiently. So, I only stop it to clean it once every week or two.

Vladimir Sergeevich, Krasnoyarsk

The ZOTA “Carbon” boiler is an excellent budget solution for those who are looking for an inexpensive but effective coal boiler for their home or cottage. The ability to install a heating element makes the device universal and makes it possible to heat the room with both solid fuel and electricity in extreme cases.

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Combined heating boiler ZOTA “Mix”

The main feature of the ZOTA “Mix” boiler is its versatility. It mainly runs on wood and coal, but in a pinch gas, diesel and electricity can be used. This flexibility is achieved by a special design that allows you to install different types of burners and operate equally efficiently on different types of fuel.

Photo 3: Combined heating boilers using solid fuel Zota Mix

Let's look at what other advantages the Mix solid fuel boiler has:

• The heat exchanger has an unusual X-shape, which ensures maximum heat removal, which in turn ensures high efficiency values.
• Operating efficiency is also improved by insulating the water jacket. Heat loss due to its use is reduced, and therefore efficiency increases. In addition to improving efficiency, insulation also improves fire safety.
• Easy access to the flue and a spacious ash drawer make cleaning and maintenance very convenient.
• The optimal pressure for a heating system is 3 atm. In emergency cases, the device can withstand a pressure surge of up to 4 atm, without the danger of explosion as is the case with.
• The operating power is adjusted by a built-in draft generator and a draft control damper in the chimney. Temperature and pressure are controlled via a thermomanometer on the front panel.

The ZOTA “Mix” model is available in four sizes with power from 20 to 50 kW. Their main characteristics are as follows:

Feedback from a real owner of the ZOTA “Mix” boiler about the experience of use:

I use a Zota Mix 20 kW boiler to heat my ecopan house of 75 m². The device fits perfectly into the boiler room. At first I thought of installing Buderus at 12 kW, but it is significantly more expensive. I use sawdust briquettes as fuel. For the winter, 3 tons are enough, which in terms of money comes out to 16,000 rubles. I've been using it for three seasons now, so far no complaints.

Eldar Vladimirovich, Irkutsk

If you are looking for a solid fuel boiler that can, if necessary, operate on gas or liquid fuel, while maintaining high efficiency and remaining safe, then the ZOTA “Mix” is exactly what you need.

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Boiler ZOTA “Topol M” on coal and wood

The ZOTA “Topol M” model is an improved modification of low-power household solid fuel boilers of the Topol series. In addition to the new design, the device has undergone a number of other significant changes:

• The body insulation is made of basalt cardboard, this reduces heat loss and increases operating efficiency.
• An additional horizontal heat exchanger was added inside the firebox, making the boiler a three-pass one.
• The firebox door opens both vertically and horizontally for convenience. It is convenient to load firewood up to 58 cm long through the scoop door.
• The ash pan is equipped with a damper, the degree of opening of which is regulated either mechanically or using an automatic draft regulator.
• As an option, it is possible to install a heating element and a gas burner in place of the screw door.

Photo 4: Zota boiler “Topol M” wood, coal, gas, electricity

In total, three standard sizes of the “Topol M” series are produced, here are their characteristics:

Review from the owner of ZOTA “Topol M”:

It’s been a month and a half since I installed “Topol M” 14 kW in a wooden house of 60 m². Of course the insulation is not very good, there are a lot of holes. There were frosts down to -35 °C, the boiler copes well. Regarding the loading mode, I will say the following: if you set the draft regulator to 70 and throw in a bucket of coal, then after 11 hours the temperature will be 30 ° C. The scissor grid raises questions, because... When it gets red hot, it quickly burns out.

Mikhail, Krasnodar

Zota "Topol M" is perfect for those who are looking for a small universal solid fuel boiler with good efficiency. It is precisely because of their high efficiency, low price, and ease of use that they are so popular on the Russian heating equipment market.

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Domestic boiler with hob ZOTA “Master”

ZOTA “Master” is an ideal option for those who need a small but practical and economical boiler for their country house. The main feature that distinguishes the Master series from other solid fuel boilers is the presence of a removable hob. Other advantages include:

• High efficiency is achieved due to good thermal insulation and heat exchanger design, which ensures maximum heat removal.
• The dimensions of the combustion chamber make it possible to use wood as fuel.
• A mechanical draft regulator is available as an option, allowing you to automate the operation of the device.
• It is possible to install a heating element or a gas burner in a 32 kW boiler.

Photo 5: Solid fuel boiler with hob ZOTA “Master”

High build quality, a large heat removal area and excellent thermal insulation turn the Zota “Master” into a full-fledged one. Here are the main parameters of the Master series:

Here is one review from the forum:

I would like to talk about the experience of using a 12 kW Master solid fuel boiler. The first thing I want to say is that it copes with the heating task well, but there are some inconveniences in use. Because The device is low-power and has rather modest dimensions. The result is a very small firebox and ash pit. Only one bucket of coal fits, and the ash pan overflows quite quickly. The easiest way to load coal from a bucket is to remove the burners from the cooking surface.

Sergey Nikolaevich, Ekaterinburg

As you can see, Zota Master boilers are very versatile. They can run on coal, wood, gas and electricity. Perform not only a heating function, but also serve as a stove for cooking. Combined with a low price, ZOTA “Master” is ideal to buy for a small country house or village house.