Ecology of consumption. Science and technology: The Stirling motor is most often used in situations where an apparatus for converting thermal energy is required, characterized by simplicity and efficiency.
Less than a hundred years ago, internal combustion engines tried to gain their rightful place in the competition among other available machines and moving mechanisms. Moreover, in those days the superiority of the gasoline engine was not so obvious. Existing machines at steam engines were distinguished by their quietness, excellent power characteristics for that time, ease of maintenance, and the ability to use various types fuel. In the further struggle for the market, internal combustion engines, due to their efficiency, reliability and simplicity, gained the upper hand.
The further race to improve units and driving mechanisms, which gas turbines and rotary types of engines entered in the mid-20th century, led to the fact that, despite the supremacy of the gasoline engine, attempts were made to introduce completely the new kind engines - thermal, first invented back in 1861 by a Scottish priest named Robert Stirling. The engine received the name of its creator.
STIRLING ENGINE: PHYSICAL SIDE OF THE ISSUE
To understand how a tabletop Stirling power station works, you need to understand general information on the principles of operation of heat engines. Physically, the principle of operation is to use mechanical energy, which is obtained when gas expands when heated and its subsequent compression when cooled. To demonstrate the principle of operation, an example can be given based on the usual plastic bottle and two pans, one of which contains cold water, the other hot.
When lowering the bottle into cold water, the temperature of which is close to the temperature at which ice forms when the air inside is sufficiently cooled plastic container it should be closed with a stopper. Further, when the bottle is placed in boiling water, after some time the cork “shoots” with force, since in this case the heated air performed work many times greater than that done during cooling. If the experiment is repeated many times, the result does not change.
The first machines that were built using the Stirling engine accurately reproduced the process demonstrated in experiment. Naturally, the mechanism required improvement, which consisted in using part of the heat that the gas lost during the cooling process for further heating, allowing the heat to be returned to the gas to accelerate heating.
But even the use of this innovation could not save the situation, since the first Stirlings were different large sizes at low power output. Subsequently, attempts were made more than once to modernize the design to achieve a power of 250 hp. led to the fact that in the presence of a cylinder with a diameter of 4.2 meters, the actual power output produced by the Stirling power plant of 183 kW was in fact only 73 kW.
All Stirling engines operate on the principle of the Stirling cycle, which includes four main phases and two intermediate ones. The main ones are heating, expansion, cooling and compression. The transition stage considered is the transition to the cold generator and the transition to heating element. Useful work performed by the engine is based solely on the temperature difference between the heating and cooling parts.
MODERN STIRLING CONFIGURATIONS
Modern engineering distinguishes three main types of such engines:
- alpha-stirling, the difference of which is two active pistons located in independent cylinders. Of all three options, this model differs the most high power, having the most high temperature heating piston;
- beta stirling, based on one cylinder, one part of which is hot and the other cold;
- Gamma Stirling, which in addition to the piston also has a displacer.
The production of the Stirling power station will depend on the choice of engine model, which will take into account all the positive and negative sides similar project.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES
Thanks to your design features These engines have a number of advantages, but are not without disadvantages.
A desktop Stirling power station, which cannot be bought in a store, but only from hobbyists who collect it themselves similar devices, relate:
- large sizes, which are caused by the need for constant cooling of the working piston;
- the use of high pressure, which is required to improve engine performance and power;
- heat loss, which occurs due to the fact that the generated heat is transferred not to the working fluid itself, but through a system of heat exchangers, whose heating leads to a loss of efficiency;
- a sharp reduction in power requires the use of special principles that differ from those traditional for gasoline engines.
Along with the disadvantages, power plants operating on Stirling units have undeniable advantages:
- any type of fuel, since like any engines using thermal energy, this engine able to function at different temperatures of any environment;
- efficiency. These devices can become an excellent replacement steam units in cases where it is necessary to process solar energy, giving an efficiency of 30% higher;
- environmental Safety. Since the tabletop kW power station does not create exhaust torque, it does not produce noise or emit emissions into the atmosphere. harmful substances. The source of power is ordinary heat, and the fuel burns out almost completely;
- structural simplicity. For its work, Stirling will not require additional parts or devices. It is capable of starting independently without using a starter;
- increased performance resource. Due to its simplicity, the engine can provide hundreds of hours of continuous operation.
AREAS OF APPLICATION OF STIRLING ENGINES
The Stirling motor is most often used in situations where a device for converting thermal energy is required that is simple, while the efficiency of other types of thermal units is significantly lower under similar conditions. Very often, such units are used to power pumping equipment, refrigerators, submarines, and energy storage batteries.
One of the promising areas for the use of Stirling engines is solar power plants, since this unit can be successfully used to convert the energy of solar rays into electricity. To carry out this process, the engine is placed at the focus of a mirror accumulating Sun rays, which provides permanent illumination to the area requiring heating. This allows solar energy to be focused on a small area. The fuel for the engine in this case is helium or hydrogen. published
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Explanation of the operation of the Stirling engine.
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We start by marking the flywheel.
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Six holes failed. It turns out not beautiful. The holes are small and the body between them is thin.
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In one go we sharpen the counterweights for the crankshaft. The bearings are pressed in. Subsequently, the bearings are pressed out and an M3 thread is cut in their place.
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I milled it, but you can also use a file.
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This is part of the connecting rod. The rest is soldered with PSR.
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Working with a reamer over the sealing washer.
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Drilling the Stirling bed. The hole that connects the displacer to the working cylinder. 4.8 drill for M6 thread. Then it needs to be turned off.
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Drilling the working cylinder liner for reaming.
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Drilling for M4 thread.
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How it was done.
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Dimensions are given taking into account the conversion. Two pairs of cylinder-piston, 10mm, were made. and by 15mm. Both were tested. If you set the cylinder to 15mm. then the piston stroke will be 11-12mm. and it doesn't work. But 10mm. with a stroke of 24mm. just right.
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Dimensions of connecting rods. Brass wire Ф3mm is soldered to them.
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Connecting rod mounting assembly. The version with bearings did not work. When the connecting rod is tightened, the bearing is deformed and creates additional friction. Instead of a bearing I made Al. bushing with bolt.
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Dimensions of some parts.
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Some dimensions for the flywheel.
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Some sizes of how to mount on the shaft and joints.
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We place a 2-3mm asbestos gasket between the cooler and the combustion chamber. It is also advisable to place paronite gaskets or something that conducts less heat under the bolts that hold both parts together.
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The displacer is the heart of Stirling; it must be light and conduct little heat. The stock was taken from the same old hard drive. This is one of the linear motor guides. Very suitable, hardened, chrome plated. In order to cut the thread, I wrapped a soaked rag around the middle and heated the ends until red hot.
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Connecting rod with working cylinder. Total length 108mm. Of these, 32mm is a piston with a diameter of 10mm. The piston should move into the cylinder easily, without noticeable scuffing. To check, close it tightly with your finger from below, and insert the piston from above, it should release down very slowly.
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I planned to do this but made changes during the process. In order to find out the stroke of the working cylinder, we move the displacer into the refrigerating chamber, and extend the working cylinder by 25 mm. We heat the heat chamber. We carefully place a ruler under the working connecting rod and remember the data. We push the displacer sharply, and how much the working cylinder moves is its stroke. This size plays a very important role.
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View of the working cylinder. Connecting rod length 83mm. The stroke is 24mm. The handwheel is attached to the shaft with an M4 screw. His head is visible in the photo. And in this way the counterweight of the displacer connecting rod is attached.
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View of the displacer connecting rod. The total length with the displacer is 214 mm. Connecting rod length 75mm. Stroke 24mm. Pay attention to the U-shaped groove on the flywheel. Made for power take-off. The idea was either a generator or through a pin to the cooler fan. The flywheel pylon has dimensions 68x25x15. The top part is milled on one side to a depth of 7mm and a length of 32mm. The center of the bearing from the bottom is at 55mm. Fastened from below with two M4 bolts. The distance between the centers of the pylons is 126mm.
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View of the combustion chamber and cooler. The engine housing is pressed into the pylon. The dimensions of the pylon are 47x25x15, the recess for landing is 12 mm. It is attached to the board from below with two M4 bolts.
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Lamp 40mm. in diameter height 35mm. Recessed into the shaft by 8mm. At the bottom in the center there is an M4 nut sealed and secured with a bolt from below.
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Finished look. Oak base 300x150x15mm.
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Nameplate.
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I've been searching for a long time working diagram. I found it, but it was always due to the fact that either there was a problem with the equipment or with the materials. I decided to make it like a crossbow. After looking at many options and figuring out what I had in stock and what I could do myself with my equipment. The dimensions that I figured out right away, when assembled device I didn't like it. It turned out too wide. I had to shorten the cylinder frame. And the flywheel should be placed on one bearing (on one pylon). The materials of the flywheel, connecting rods, counterweight, sealing washer, lamp and working cylinder are bronze. The pylons, working piston, cylinder frame cooler and washer with threads from the heat chamber are aluminum. Flywheel shaft and displacer rod steel. Stainless steel combustion chamber. Graphite displacer. And I’ll put it on display for you to judge.
The modern automotive industry has reached a level of development at which, without fundamental scientific research, it is almost impossible to achieve fundamental improvements in the design of traditional internal combustion engines. This situation forces designers to pay attention to alternative power plant designs. Some engineering centers have focused their efforts on creating and adapting hybrid and electric models for serial production, while other automakers are investing in the development of engines using fuel from renewable sources (for example, biodiesel using rapeseed oil). There are other power unit projects that in the future could become a new standard propulsion system for Vehicle.
Possible sources of mechanical energy for future cars include the external combustion engine, which was invented in the mid-19th century by Scotsman Robert Stirling as a thermal expansion engine.
Scheme of work
The Stirling engine converts thermal energy, supplied from the outside, into the useful mechanical work due to changes in working fluid temperature(gas or liquid) circulating in a closed volume.
IN general view The operating diagram of the device is as follows: in the lower part of the engine, the working substance (for example, air) heats up and, increasing in volume, pushes the piston upward. Hot air enters the upper part of the engine, where it is cooled by a radiator. The pressure of the working fluid decreases, the piston is lowered for the next cycle. In this case, the system is sealed and the working substance is not consumed, but only moves inside the cylinder.
There are several design options for power units using the Stirling principle.
Stirling modification "Alpha"
The engine consists of two separate power pistons (hot and cold), each of which is located in its own cylinder. Heat is supplied to the cylinder with the hot piston, and the cold cylinder is located in a cooling heat exchanger.
Stirling modification "Beta"
The cylinder containing the piston is heated at one end and cooled at the opposite end. A power piston and a displacer move in the cylinder, designed to change the volume of the working gas. The regenerator carries out the return movement of the cooled working substance into the hot cavity of the engine.
Stirling modification "Gamma"
The design consists of two cylinders. The first is completely cold, in which the power piston moves, and the second, hot on one side and cold on the other, serves to move the displacer. A regenerator for circulating cold gas can be common to both cylinders or be part of the displacer design.
Advantages of the Stirling engine
Like most external combustion engines, Stirling is characterized multi-fuel: the engine operates due to temperature changes, regardless of the reasons that caused it.
Interesting fact! An installation was once demonstrated that operated on twenty fuel options. Without stopping the engine, gasoline, diesel fuel, methane, crude oil and vegetable oil- the power unit continued to operate steadily.
The engine has simplicity of design and does not require additional systems and attachments(timing, starter, gearbox).
The features of the device guarantee a long service life: more than one hundred thousand hours of continuous operation.
The Stirling engine is silent, since detonation does not occur in the cylinders and there is no need to remove exhaust gases. The “Beta” modification, equipped with a rhombic crank mechanism, is a perfectly balanced system that has no vibrations during operation.
There are no processes occurring in the engine cylinders that could have an impact negative impact on environment. When selecting a suitable heat source (e.g. solar energy) Stirling can be absolutely environmentally friendly power unit.
Disadvantages of the Stirling design
With all the positive properties, immediate mass use of Stirling engines is impossible due to the following reasons:
The main problem is the material consumption of the structure. Cooling the working fluid requires large-volume radiators, which significantly increases the size and metal consumption of the installation.
The current technological level will allow the Stirling engine to compare in performance with modern gasoline engines only through the use of complex types of working fluid (helium or hydrogen) under pressure of more than one hundred atmospheres. This fact raises serious questions both in the field of materials science and in ensuring user safety.
An important operational problem is related to issues of thermal conductivity and temperature resistance of metals. Heat is supplied to the working volume through heat exchangers, which leads to inevitable losses. In addition, the heat exchanger must be made of heat-resistant metals resistant to high blood pressure. Suitable materials very expensive and difficult to process.
The principles of changing the modes of the Stirling engine are also radically different from traditional ones, which requires the development of special control devices. Thus, to change power it is necessary to change the pressure in the cylinders, the phase angle between the displacer and the power piston, or influence the capacity of the cavity with the working fluid.
One way to control the shaft rotation speed on a Stirling engine model can be seen in the following video:
Efficiency
In theoretical calculations, the efficiency of the Stirling engine depends on the temperature difference of the working fluid and can reach 70% or more in accordance with the Carnot cycle.
However, the first samples realized in metal had extremely low efficiency for the following reasons:
- ineffective coolant (working fluid) options that limit the maximum heating temperature;
- energy losses due to friction of parts and thermal conductivity of the engine housing;
- absence construction materials resistant to high pressure.
Engineering solutions constantly improved the design of the power unit. Thus, in the second half of the 20th century, a four-cylinder automobile The Stirling engine with a rhombic drive showed an efficiency of 35% in tests on a water coolant with a temperature of 55 ° C. Careful design development, the use of new materials and fine-tuning of working units ensured the efficiency of the experimental samples was 39%.
Note! Modern gasoline engines of similar power have an efficiency of 28-30%, and turbocharged diesel engines within 32-35%.
Modern examples of the Stirling engine, such as that created by the American company Mechanical Technology Inc, demonstrate efficiency of up to 43.5%. And with the development of production of heat-resistant ceramics and similar innovative materials there will be a possibility of a significant increase in temperature working environment and achieving an efficiency of 60%.
Examples of successful implementation of automobile Stirlings
Despite all the difficulties, there are many known efficient Stirling engine models that are applicable to the automotive industry.
Interest in Stirling, suitable for installation in a car, appeared in the 50s of the 20th century. Work in this direction was carried out by such concerns as Ford Motor Company, Volkswagen Group and others.
The UNITED STIRLING company (Sweden) developed Stirling, which made maximum use of serial components and assemblies produced by automakers (crankshaft, connecting rods). The resulting four-cylinder V-engine had a specific weight of 2.4 kg/kW, which is comparable to the characteristics of a compact diesel engine. This unit was successfully tested as a power plant for a seven-ton cargo van.
One of the successful samples is the four-cylinder Stirling engine made in the Netherlands, model “Philips 4-125DA”, intended for installation on a car. The engine had a working power of 173 hp. With. in dimensions similar to a classic gasoline unit.
General Motors engineers achieved significant results by building an eight-cylinder (4 working and 4 compression cylinders) V-shaped Stirling engine with a standard crank mechanism in the 70s.
A similar power plant in 1972 equipped with a limited series of Ford Torino cars, whose fuel consumption has decreased by 25% compared to the classic gasoline V-shaped eight.
Currently, more than fifty foreign companies are working to improve the design of the Stirling engine in order to adapt it to mass production for the needs of the automotive industry. And if it is possible to eliminate the disadvantages of this type of engine, while at the same time maintaining its advantages, then it will be Stirling, and not turbines and electric motors, that will replace gasoline internal combustion engines.
I’ve been watching craftsmen on this resource for a long time, and when the article appeared I wanted to make it myself. But, as always, there was no time and I put off the idea.
But then I finally passed my diploma, graduated from the military department and it was time.
It seems to me that making such an engine is much easier than a flash drive :)
First of all, I want to repent to the guru of this site that a person in his 20s is doing such nonsense, but I just wanted to make it and there is nothing to explain this desire, I hope my next step will be a flash drive.
So we need:
1 Desire.
2 Three tin cans.
3 Copper wire(I found a cross section of 2 mm).
4 Paper (newspaper or office paper, it doesn’t matter).
5 Stationery glue (PVA).
6 Super glue (CYJANOPAN or any other in the same spirit).
7 Rubber glove or balloon.
8 Terminals for electrical wiring 3 pcs.
9 Wine stopper 1 pc.
10 Some fishing line.
11 Tools to taste. 
1- first bank; 2- second; 3- third; 3-lid of the third jar; 4- membrane; 5- displacer; 6- electrical wiring terminal; 7- crankshaft; 8- tin part:) 9- connecting rod; 10- cork; 11- disk; 12 line.
Let's start by cutting off the lids of all three cans. I did this with a homemade Dremel, at first I wanted to use an awl to poke holes in a circle and cut with scissors, but I remembered about the miracle machine.
To be honest, it didn’t turn out very nicely and I accidentally milled a hole in the wall of one of the cans, so it was no longer suitable for a working container (but I had two more and I made them more carefully). 
Next we need a jar that will serve as a form for displacer(5).
Since the bazaars were closed on Monday and all the nearby auto stores were closed, and I wanted to make an engine, I took the liberty of changing the original design and making the displacer out of paper rather than steel wool.
To do this, I found a jar of fish food that was the most suitable size for me. I chose the size based on the fact that the diameter of the soda can was 53mm, so I was looking for 48-51mm so that when I wind the paper onto the mold, there would be about 1-2mm of distance between the wall of the can and the displacer (5) for air passage. (I previously covered the jar with tape so that the glue would not stick). 
Next, I marked a strip of A4 sheet at 70 mm, and cut the rest into strips of 50 mm (as in the article). To be honest, I don’t remember how many of these strips I wound, but let it be 4-5 (strips 50mm x 290mm, I did the number of layers by eye, so that when the glue sets, the displacer is not soft). Each layer was coated with PVA glue. 
Then I made displacer covers from 6 layers of paper (I also glued everything and pressed it with a round handle to squeeze out the remaining glue and air bubbles) when I glued all the layers, I pressed them on top with books so that they would not bend.
I also used scissors to cut off the bottom of the can (2), which was intact, at a distance of about 10 mm, since the displacer did not pass through the top hole. This will be ours working capacity.
This is what ended up happening (I didn’t immediately cut off the lid of the jar (3), but I still have to do this in order to put the candle there). 
Then, at a distance of about 60mm from the bottom, I cut off the jar (3) that I still had with a lid. This bottom will serve us firebox.
Then I cut off the bottom of the second jar (1) with the lid cut out, also at a distance of 10mm (from the bottom). And put it all together. 
Next, it seemed to me that if I glued a smaller object to the membrane (4) of the working cylinder (2) instead of the cover, the design would improve, so I cut out such a sample from paper. The base is 15x15mm square and the “ears” are 10mm each. And I cut out a part (8) from the sample. 
Then I drilled holes in the terminals (6) with a diameter of 2.1 or 2.5 mm (it doesn’t matter), after which I took a wire (with a cross-section of 2 mm) and measured 150 mm, this will be our " crankshaft" (7). And he bent it to the following dimensions: the height of the displacer elbow (5) - 20 mm, the height of the membrane elbow (4) - 5 mm. There should be 90 degrees between them (no matter which direction). Having first put the terminals in place. Also I made washers and attached them with glue so that the terminals would not dangle on the crankshaft.
It was not possible to make it straight and exactly in size right away, but I redid it (rather for my own peace of mind). 
Then I again took the wire (2mm) and cut off a piece, about 200mm, this will be the connecting rod (9) of the membrane (4), threaded the part (8) through it and bent it (will be shown).
I took a can (1) (the one with a little holes in it) and made holes in it for the “crankshaft” (7) at a distance of 30mm from the top (but this is not important). And he cut through the viewing window with scissors. 
Then, when the displacer cylinder (5) was dry and completely glued, I began to glue the covers to it. When I glued the lids, I threaded a wire of about half a millimeter through it in order to attach the fishing line (12). 
Next, I machined an axle (10) from a wooden handle to connect the discs (11) to the crankshaft, but I recommend using a wine stopper.
And now the hardest part
(as for me) I cut out a membrane (4) from medical gloves and glued the same part (8) to it in the center. I placed the membrane on the working cylinder (2) and tied it along the edge with a thread, and when I began to cut off the excess parts, the membrane began to crawl out from under the thread (although I did not pull the membrane) and when it was completely cut off, I began to tighten it and the membrane flew off completely.
I took super glue and glued the end of the can, and then glued the newly prepared membrane, placing it strictly in the center, held it and waited for the glue to harden. Then he pressed it again, but this time with an elastic band, cut off the edges, removed the elastic and glued it again (from the outside).
This is what happened at that moment 
Next, I pierced a hole in the membrane (4) and the part (8) with a needle and threaded a fishing line (12) through them (which was also not easy).
Well, when I put everything together, this is what happened: 
I must admit right away that at first the engine did not work, even more, it seemed to me that it would not work at all, because I had to turn it (with a burning candle) manually and with quite a lot of force (as for a self-rotating engine). I was completely limp and began to scold myself for making the displacer out of paper, for taking the wrong cans, for making a mistake in the length of the connecting rod (9) or the displacer line (5). But after an hour of torment and disappointment, my candle finally burned out (the one in the aluminum casing) and I took the remaining one from the New Year (the green one in the photo), it burned MUCH stronger and, lo and behold, I was able to start it.
CONCLUSIONS
1 What the displacer is made of does not matter, as I read on one of the sites “it should be light and non-heat-conducting.”
2 Changing the length of the connecting rod (9) and the length of the line (12) of the displacer (5) does not matter, as I read on one of the sites “the main thing is that the displacer does not hit the top or bottom of the working chamber during operation,” so I set it approximately in the middle . And the membrane in a calm (cold) state should be flat, and not stretched down or up.
Video
Video of the engine running. I installed 4 discs, they are used as a flywheel. When starting, I try to raise the displacer to the upper position, since I am still afraid that it will overheat. It should spin like this: first the displacer rises up, and then the membrane rises behind it, the displacer goes down, and the membrane goes down behind it.
PS: maybe if you balance it it will spin faster, but for me a quick fix I couldn't balance it :)
Water cooling video. It doesn’t help much in operation, and as you can see, it doesn’t really speed up its rotation, but with such cooling you can admire the engine longer without worrying about it overheating.
And here is an approximate drawing of my prototype (large size):
s016.radikal.ru/i335/1108/3e/a42a0bdb9f32.jpg
Anyone who needs the original (COMPASS V 12) can send it to the post office.
Perhaps you will ask me why it is needed after all and I will answer. Like everything in our steampunk, it’s mainly for the soul.
Please don't push me too hard, this is my first publication.
Hi all! Today I want to introduce to your attention homemade engine, which converts any temperature difference into mechanical work:
Stirling's engine- a heat engine in which a liquid or gaseous working fluid moves in a closed volume, a type of external combustion engine. It is based on periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid with the extraction of energy from the resulting change in the volume of the working fluid. It can operate not only from fuel combustion, but also from any heat source.
I present to your attention my engine, made from pictures from the Internet:
Having seen this miracle, I had a desire to make it)) Moreover, there were a lot of drawings and designs of the engine on the Internet. I’ll say right away: it’s not difficult to do, but to adjust and achieve normal operation is a little problematic. It worked fine for me only the third time (I hope you won’t suffer like that)))).
Operating principle of the Stirling engine:
Everything is made from materials available to every brainiac:
Well, what about without sizes)))
The motor frame is made from paper clip wire. All fixed wire connections are soldered()
The displacer (the disk that moves air inside the engine) is made of drawing paper and glued with superglue (it is hollow inside):
The smaller the gap between the covers and the displacer in the upper and lower positions, the greater the engine efficiency.
The displacer rod is made from a blind rivet (manufacturing: carefully pull out inner part and if necessary, clean it with sandpaper; glue the outer part to the top “cold” lid with the cap facing inward). But this option has a drawback - there is no complete tightness and there is slight friction, although a drop motor oil will help get rid of it.
Piston cylinder - neck from an ordinary plastic bottle:
The piston casing is made of a medical glove and secured with a thread, which, after winding, must be impregnated with superglue for reliability. A disk made of several layers of cardboard is glued to the center of the casing, on which the connecting rod is attached.
The crankshaft is made from the same clips as the entire engine frame. The angle between the piston and displacer elbows is 90 degrees. The working stroke of the displacer is 5mm; piston - 8mm.
Flywheel - consists of two CDs that are glued to cardboard cylinder and placed on the crankshaft axis.
So, stop talking nonsense, I present to you video of engine operation:
The difficulties I had were mainly due to excess friction and lack of accurate dimensions of the structure. in the first case, a drop of engine oil and crankshaft alignment corrected the situation, in the second, I had to rely on intuition))) But as you can see, everything worked out (although I completely rebuilt the engine 3 times))))
If you have any questions, write in the comments, we’ll sort it out)))
Thank you for your attention)))