Astilbe is a favorite of shady gardens: planting rules and care recommendations. When to transplant into seedlings

Reproduction of astilbe is a topical topic for many gardeners. Having planted one variety of herbaceous perennial on a plot, you will definitely want to get several more different bushes.

There are few options to achieve the goal:

buy the root in the store;
ask a neighbor for a share;
experiment with perennial seeds.

This is an exhaustive list of methods for propagating astilbe. Let's look at them in more detail.

Propagation by seeds

This option is the most controversial and problematic. Firstly, not all descendant hybrids take on the maternal characteristics of the plant. Secondly, the germination rate of the plant’s seeds is incredibly low (±70%), as manufacturers directly indicate on the packaging.

Nevertheless, possible difficulties not only do not stop some gardeners, but also provoke them: will they be able to get seedlings? How to increase the germination rate of a crop?

Self-seeding

Astilbe is a herbaceous plant, the ground part of which dies off in the winter in order to grow a new vegetative mass in the spring. Some gardeners do not cut off the faded panicles, creating a natural shelter for the rhizome to avoid freezing.

The best results of self-seeding are visible where there is no demand garden tools

U early varieties Astilbes have time to set, ripen and sift numerous seeds into the ground. Over the winter they undergo stratification and in late spring (or even early summer) produce miniature, one might say stunted, seedlings. Germination statistics are modest. Considering that 1 g of dry inflorescence can contain up to 20 thousand seeds, no more than 3-7 are viable. Why is that?

Practice shows that often the lack of seedlings is to blame not for the plant, but for the gardeners. Reasons for failure:

The millimeter-sized sprouts that hatch in the spring (early summer) are in complete darkness due to the abundant foliage of the parent perennial. Weak astilbes die without having time to develop a vegetative mass.
The way out is that the seedlings found under the bushes dive into a pot or free up part of the space, thinning out the parent “under the crown”.
Miniature young shoots are destroyed along with weeds during spring weeding.

Everyone remembers that astilbes develop incredibly slowly, but no one attaches importance to this fact. And in vain. The seedlings will form a small bush (visible to the naked eye) no earlier than mid-summer or closer to autumn.

Conclusion! Self-seeding of astilbe is not a rare phenomenon. It is quite possible to get 1-2 seedlings from a bush. The main thing is not to remove faded panicles from early varieties and not to expect the children to repeat the parental characteristics.

In general, perennials are decorative, often with white and pale pinkish tassels.

Seeds for seedlings

Sellers sell bags of varietal astilbe seeds no less successfully than rhizomes. The gardener has the opportunity to choose the color he likes or the desired height of the plant and start germinating the seedlings.

None of the gardeners have yet succeeded in tracking the pattern and establishing the timing of seed germination.

Adult astilbes with well-developed roots prefer to grow in loam. Tender seedlings need to be provided with a mixture of peat and sand mixed in equal quantities.

Calendar March is the time when seeds emerge from deep dormancy and acquire the ability to germinate. However, the start may take 3-5 months, which is due to the specific characteristics of the seeds, in particular the underdevelopment of the embryos. The process of awakening astilbe goes through several stages. Moreover, a number of them proceed unnoticed, without visible manifestations of seed growth.

Algorithm of actions:

a wide and low container is filled with wet substrate;
seeds are scattered on the surface of the soil;
spray them generously with a spray bottle;
the container is placed in the refrigerator for stratification for 2-3 weeks;
at the expiration of specified period the seed is placed on a light windowsill;
regularly moisten the soil.

On a note! The appearance of seedlings 3-5 months after sowing is the norm for astilbe. It is important to maintain optimal substrate moisture during this period.

The practice of using powdered hydrogel in agricultural technology is not new. Some gardeners have gotten used to growing not only tomato seedlings in it, but also astilbe. It is believed that seeds in the gel germinate faster. If you have to wait months for germination in soil, then when sowing in polymer, the period is reduced to 3-4 weeks. How to propagate astilbe in hydrogel? What are the mistakes of novice gardeners?

To remove sprouts from the surface of a napkin, filter paper, gauze, you will need tweezers

The algorithm for germinating seeds in polymer is similar to the procedure for using soil:

the gel is diluted according to the instructions for the drug (sometimes excess water is drained);
put wet filter paper on top;
astilbe seeds are scattered on the surface;
spray them with a spray bottle;
the container is put in the refrigerator;
removed after 10-20 days;
Place the container in a bright place and wait for the shoots to appear.

As a rule, astilbe sprouts peck earlier than expected. Sometimes even in the refrigerator, during the stratification period. This is a signal that the plant needs to be transplanted into a pot with peat and sand. Then the seedlings undergo standard care: watering, diving, transplanting into open ground.

Three main mistakes of inexperienced gardeners:

sowing astilbe in gel without paper (napkins), when the seeds literally drown in the polymer and simply suffocate;
untimely removal of the seedling from the gel, when young roots become deformed and rot due to lack of oxygen;
turning the container into a greenhouse, which increases the humidity several times environment and destroys sensitive sprouts.

Working on mistakes will allow you to get several treasured astilbe bushes or propagate your favorite variety.

On a note! Perennial grown by seed method, blooms in the 3rd, less often in the 2nd year.

When to transplant into seedlings?

Time for the procedure: spring, summer, early autumn. In principle, practice shows that during the period of active growing season (and even flowering), astilbe takes root well in a new place. The main thing is that the bush is sufficiently formed, strong and healthy, and can quickly adapt to new conditions.

Astilbe budding is not an obstacle to finding a new place of residence

In the spring, seedlings are transplanted after the threat of return frosts has passed. Aggressive weather is quite capable of destroying young (2-year-old) plants. In summer, bushes are moved at any time. In the fall - as early as possible, so that the perennial has time to take root before it retires.

The holes should be spacious enough, the mail should be flavored nutrients: complex fertilizer, ash. After planting the bush, it is important to water the soil around it well and mulch it with grass and sawdust.

Reproduction of astilbe by dividing the bush is an important “rejuvenation” procedure. From one old, overgrown perennial, the gardener gets 2-4 new compact flowers. Ignoring this point for 5-7 years naturally leads to a loss of decorativeness of the plant, a decrease in the number of peduncles, shredding of inflorescences, and the death of part of the root.

Step-by-step instructions for dividing and replanting astilbe:

at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground, cut off the stems and peduncles;
dig up a bush;
use a shovel (knife) to chop the rhizome into pieces with 3-5 buds;
The cuttings are planted in the ground, maintaining a minimum distance of 30 cm.

Ash, mineral fertilizers, and, if desired, hydrogel are poured into a spacious hole to retain moisture near the rhizome for a long time. After planting the astilbe, the hole is well watered, and the ground around is mulched with available materials.

This bush can be safely divided into 3-4 parts

On a note! If the perennial is divided in the spring, in early March, astilbe can bloom already in this season.

Rooting buds renewal

This method differs from dividing a bush in that the planting material is processed selectively. The gardener is not interested in the whole rhizome, but in the young shoots (renewal buds). The shoots are cut off with part of the root. The cut is sprinkled with ash. The seedling is rooted in a pot with a substrate consisting of equal portions of peat and sand.

It is better to replant astilbe in open ground next spring. In a year, the delenka will have time to grow and become stronger for new challenges.

How to choose and propagate purchased planting material correctly? See tips from Garden World:

When and why to divide astilbe? The “newspaper gardener” answers:

I love astilbe! Such a variety of species, colors and varieties of inflorescences can rarely be found in perennials. It can grow in one place for a long time. Attractive inflorescences remain on its bushes for a long time. The unpretentiousness of the plant allows even the most novice gardener to grow it. Astilbe is appropriate both in a country flower bed and in a ceremonial flower garden. For those who have not grown it on their plot, we will tell you more about it - what the plant looks like, what types and varieties exist, how to choose and plant, how to care for it.

Astilbe is a herbaceous perennial belonging to the genus Saxifraga. There are up to 40 species in the world. This name was given to the plant by the Scottish botanist Hamilton - “A” means without, “stilbe” - shine - the leaves are without shine, matte, dull. East Asia, North America, and Japan are considered the homeland of astilbe. There, the perennial grows in moist deciduous forests along streams. Europeans were introduced to this plant by Karl Thunberg and von Siebold. These hunters for unusual plants brought astilbe home in the 18th and early 19th centuries. From that time on, she became a favorite of shady gardens.

Astilbe is a rhizomatous, herbaceous perennial. The herbaceous part that grows over the summer dies off in the fall. Erect shoots can grow from 8 cm to 2 m - depending on the type and variety. Serrated simple or pinnate leaves sit on long petioles. The color of the leaf blade is from reddish-green to dark green. The woody rhizome can be loose or dense, depending on the species. New shoots grow on the upper part in the spring, and Bottom part dies. Under a layer of snow, the plant tolerates frosts down to -37 °C.

Small white, pink, lilac, purple or red flowers bloom on lacy apical panicles different sizes. Peak flowering occurs in mid-summer and lasts about a month. Small seeds ripen in the seed capsule - 1 g contains up to 20,000 seeds.

Astilbe flowers, depending on the type, are collected in inflorescences various shapes. They can be paniculate, rhombic, pyramidal or drooping.

Astilbe with paniculate inflorescences. Its numerous branches with many branches extend from the main axis under acute angle and shorten towards the top.

Astilbe with pyramidal inflorescences - the lateral branches extend from the main axis almost at a right angle and are evenly shortened from the base to the top, the outline of the inflorescence looks like a regular pyramid.

Astilbe with rhombic inflorescences. Branching out from the main stem at an acute angle, they form a diamond shape. Such inflorescences are characteristic of Japanese astilbe.

Astilbe with drooping inflorescences in the form of arches, gracefully hanging from the main axis. Such inflorescences are more often found in astilbe Thunberg and Lemoine.

The decorative effect of the variety depends on the density and size of the flowers. Inflorescences with several shades, such as “Peach and Cream”, “Montgomery”, “White Wings” look especially original.

Varieties with photos

Today, no more than 12 types of astilbe are used in garden design, from which many hybrids have been bred. The most famous of them are Arends hybrids (Arendsii Hybrida), Japanese hybrids (Japonica Hybrida), Chinese astilbe (Astilbe Chinensis), and simple-leaved astilbe (Astilbe simplicifolia).

Astilbe rentsa

There are about 40 varieties bred by crossing Astilbe David with other species. Most of these are tall (up to 1m) plants, spreading pyramidal or spherical. White, pink, red or lilac flowers bloom above the dark green leaves. Flowering continues for more than a month from July to mid-August.

Astilbe japonica

Montgomery variety

It most often does not grow above 80 cm. compact bushes shiny leaves, panicle inflorescences pink or white. This variety of astilbe begins to bloom earlier than others; dried flowers retain their attractiveness until the end of the season. New varieties are unpretentious to growing conditions and resistant to low temperatures.

Cultivated varieties: Deutschland - white panicles, pink Rhineland, soft lilac and elegant Europe, Montgomery with bright red or burgundy fluffy panicles.

Astilbe chinensis

Vision in Pink

Represents herbaceous shrub about a meter high. The leaves are of different sizes - those growing from the base of the bush are large, on long petioles; those growing on the stem are smaller, with short petioles. Dense inflorescences can grow up to 30-35 cm, most often lilac, less often white or pink. Can grow in sunny flower beds. The most famous varieties: "Purpurlanze" unusual lilac color, pink “Vision in Pink”, “Vision in Red” dark purple.

Astilbe Gloria

Astilbe white

Astilbe amethyst

Astilbe simplefolia

Plants of this species and varieties bred on their basis are very sensitive to elevated temperatures and low air humidity. The drooping inflorescences of these tall plants(up to 50 cm) give the plantings a special airiness. Varieties with white candle inflorescences - Praecox Alba, pink - Bronze Elegans, coral Ostrich feather - have been bred.

Astilbe unic

Younique Silver Pink

In the 2000s. a new group of Younique varieties has been created. This group includes varieties with snow-white, lilac Younique Lilac, pink Younique Silvery Pink and almost red graceful inflorescences of Younique Carmine. The inflorescences of these varieties are both delicate and lush, without a long peduncle, growing from a mass of leaves.

In order to admire the flowering of astilbe every year, it needs to be replanted and planted on time.

The most suitable period for this event is the end of summer (August) - the beginning of autumn.

The flowering of the plant has already ended, and the cold weather is still far away - the plant will have time to take root and prepare for the winter.

The experience of many gardeners recommends planting and dividing astilbe bushes after 4 years. A feature of astilbes can be considered their gradual protrusion from the soil - the rhizomes grow upward, dying off from below. After some time, the roots become bare. This phenomenon can be eliminated by annually adding soil or compost to the exposed rhizome. This procedure allows you not to replant the plant, but only to divide and plant it.

Many gardeners purchase astilbe seedlings via the Internet or in garden centers. Plants in such trading companies are packaged in bags, which in most cases are stored in a dark place. The rhizomes germinate, but the resulting shoots are stretched due to lack of light, turn pale green and become distorted. Planted in open ground, such seedlings get sick for a long time and do not take root well.

Advice. It is worth purchasing planting material as early as possible, as soon as the seedlings go on sale. Store in the refrigerator until planting, checking its condition periodically.

Storing seedlings in a cool place will prevent the buds from sprouting.
From the whole variety of bags with rhizomes, it is worth choosing those in which it is clear that the seedlings are alive, the shoots are small, fresh and green. Saplings with long, pale and thin shoots will also take root if the rhizome is not dry and rotten. In the first year of life in a flowerbed, such a plant will take a long time to adapt to new conditions, will produce weak growth and will not bloom.

Most big choice planting material astilbe in chain stores can be seen at a time when the plants are still far from being planted in the ground - in February - March. How to preserve acquired rhizomes until the time when they can be planted in open ground?

Astilbes will easily tolerate indoor maintenance before planting in the flower garden. One storage option is a household refrigerator or basement. A positive temperature close to zero is needed. Plastic containers With ventilation holes filled with a moistened substrate - sawdust, coconut fiber, light soil or moss. The rhizomes are placed on the surface and lightly covered with the same substrate. In this state, the astilbe will survive until spring without loss.

Rhizomes in which buds have awakened and sprouts have appeared can be planted in a flower pot and placed on the windowsill. Water as needed, avoiding overwatering. It is necessary to plant seedlings with regrown leaves in the flower garden after the end of frost. At first, such plants need to be protected from excessive sun.

Planting any plant begins with choosing a location. Astilbe requires light shading, partial shade. In an open sunny meadow, astilbe will feel uncomfortable. The flowering of perennials in such places is more abundant, but ends faster and the shoots have a paler color.

The choice of planting site is also influenced by the flowering period of the seedling. Varieties with early and late The flowers bloom equally in both sun and shade. Medium-flowering varieties are more suitable for shaded areas, where the astilbe will be protected from the hot midday sun.

Loamy soil, acidity pH 5.5-6.5, and the surrounding air should be moist. The perennial will be especially grateful for the close location groundwater. Only Chinese astilbe can tolerate slight drying out of the soil. For other species, dried soil is like death. The perennial will feel very good on the shore of a decorative pond.

The best spring term It is considered to be planted in May-June.

When preparing a site for planting, dig it up, remove the roots of perennial weeds, add 2 buckets of organic matter per 1 m2

Preparing the landing hole. Its size should be such that the rhizomes of the seedling can fit freely in it. We loosen the bottom of the hole, pour in organic matter, you can spill it with liquid vermicompost or any other fertilizer diluted according to the instructions. In areas where there may be a lack of moisture in the summer, hydrogel granules can be added to the soil when planting.

Place the rhizome on the prepared soil. The planting depth should be such that there is 4-5 cm of soil above the base of the sprouts. It is necessary to sprinkle the seedling with substrate, taking into account the fact that the watered soil will settle and the roots may end up on the surface. The hole around the seedling will not allow water to spread over the surface, but will direct it to the roots.

Mulch in the planting hole will retain moisture and make it easier for the plant to adapt to a new location. By pouring a protective layer of 3-4 cm around the sprouts, a space free of mulch is left. Humus, sawdust, pine needles or crushed bark can be used as such a layer.

In dry weather, astilbe will need to be watered every other day until the young leaves appear.
When planting perennials in groups, leave 40 to 50 cm of free space between adjacent plants.

Planting astilbe: video

Planted on fertilized soil, astilbe grows in one place for up to seven years. With careful care and timely feeding and watering, this period can increase to twenty.

In the spring, after the snow melts, the plantings are fertilized. Liquid fertilizers reach the root layer faster. You can mulch the seedlings organic material. Throughout the growing season, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture at the proper level.

When the astilbe flowering ends and the flower stalks dry up, it is better to leave them on the plant - even when dried they look impressive. When preparing plantings for winter, the above-ground part of the perennial is cut off at ground level and the plantings are covered with them. To further protect the bush from frost, you can use coniferous spruce branches or tops of vegetable plants.

From the moment seedlings emerge in spring until mid-summer, it is very important to remove weeds from plantings. Towards the end of summer, astilbe rhizomes grow so much that they can choke out the weeds on their own.

Astilbe, like a newcomer from another climatic zone, did not start in our latitudes large quantity enemies among insects and microorganisms. The greatest damage to this perennial is caused by the pennies and two types of nematodes - root-knot and strawberry.

The pennies create foam-like nests for their larvae in the leaf axils. Under the influence of the pest, astilbe withers. Any insecticidal preparation can destroy the pest.

Plants damaged by strawberry nematodes become covered with necrotic spots, their buds, leaves and flowers are deformed.

You need to prepare a newly planted astilbe bush for wintering in advance - in the summer. In plants of the first year of life in a new place, the peduncle is removed as soon as it separates. Throughout the season, the soil around the bush is weeded and weeds are removed. When loosening the crust on the soil surface, you need to do this carefully, trying to keep the young roots intact.

After the first autumn frosts, cut off the blackened leaves at ground level and place them on the growing bushes. Then an earthen mound about 4 cm high is created above the bush, and then the astilbe growth area is covered with dry leaves or peat. Crushed bark or humus will also work.

On the bushes of the second and subsequent years of life, flower stalks are left, and for the winter they are insulated in the same way with peat or fallen leaves. Every year, the astilbe rhizomes rise higher and soon begin to protrude from the ground, becoming defenseless against the winter cold. Astilbes frozen in winter become less decorative.

Four to five year old astilbe plants are fully covered before the onset of frost. First, cut off the foliage and flower stalks. At the next stage, a frame is built into which insulation can be placed - dry leaves or tops. You can secure the leaves in the frame non-woven material spunbond or lutrasil. You need to protect the plantings from getting wet with plastic film pressed along the edges.

A strong, healthy plant will more easily withstand winter cold and return frosts.

You can increase the immunity of astilbe by applying potassium and phosphorus fertilizers in the fall. Under each bush, 50 g of a fertilizer mixture is scattered in a 1:1 ratio. Good results are obtained by using well-rotted organic matter - manure or compost. Slowly decomposing organic matter warms the bush in winter and provides nutrition in an accessible form in summer.

Reproduction

There are several ways to propagate astilbe: by seeds, renewal buds and dividing the bush. Most often they propagate vegetatively - by dividing the bush, but when propagated by seeds, you can get new varieties and engage in selection.

Astilbe seeds are so small that they can only be seen through a magnifying glass. To collect 1g of seeds you need to collect 20,000 of them. Ripe seeds quickly spill out of the seed pods. To collect seeds, inflorescences are cut off in September and placed on paper in a warm, dry place and kept for two weeks to a month. The spilled seeds are collected and stored in a paper bag.

For seed propagation, sowing begins in March. Choose a wide container, about 15 cm deep. A mixture of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio is used as soil. Snow is poured onto the soil in a layer of 1 cm. You can replace natural snow with artificial snow - from the freezer. You can distribute the seeds evenly over the surface of the snow by mixing them with liquid. The seeds are poured into a solution of a growth stimulator and sown with a pipette on the surface of the snow. On a white background, the seeds are visible especially clearly and they can be distributed more evenly. The melted snow will moisten the soil and draw the seeds to the required depth.

After waiting for the snow to melt, the container with the seeds in a transparent bag, or even better, wrapped in cling film, is placed in the refrigerator for three weeks. During this time, shoots appear in the container. The green container is transferred to a warm, bright place. You need to water the sprouts especially carefully - you can water them with a sprinkler and a fine spray of water or with a syringe without a needle. Seedlings with 2-3 true leaves are picked into separate pots and subsequently planted in the ground.

Sowing astilbe seeds: video

Reproduction by renewal buds

With the beginning of the growth of shoots or renewal buds, they are cut off with a piece of rhizome.
Wounds are disinfected with crushed charcoal or cinnamon powder.
Sections with buds are planted in a mixture of gravel and peat, in a ratio of 1:3, and covered with polyethylene (film or a cut bottle).
In the autumn of the current year or spring of the next year, the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place.

The easiest and most reliable way to propagate astilbe is vegetatively - by dividing the bush. The best results are produced by bushes aged 3-4 years. The rhizome of a perennial dug out of the ground is divided into parts with pruning shears or a shovel. There should be at least two buds on each division. The lower parts of the rhizome are removed. The resulting parts of the plant are planted in new places or wrapped in damp cloth and kept in a plastic bag to prevent the roots from drying out.

It is better to divide and plant astilbe in early spring, before flowering begins. Propagation of a perennial in the fall must be done in such a way that the plant has enough time to take root before the onset of frost, i.e. in August-early September. The plants tolerate the division procedure well, quickly take root in a new place and bloom the next year.

Astilbe: cultivation, care, reproduction: video

Landscape designers value astilbe for its long-lasting decorative effect and resistance to high level groundwater, the ability to grow in the shade of tall plants. Openwork leaves sitting on reddish cuttings attract attention throughout the garden season.

Young purple leaves look attractive in a flower garden, which gradually turn green and acquire unusual shape. An additional bonus to the carved leaves is a long flowering period, more than a month. Various shapes and shades of inflorescences decorate the flower garden from mid-summer to autumn.

Astilbe in the making flower arrangements can be used both individually and in group plantings, combining colors and sizes of different varieties.

Astilbe is an all-rounder, it will be desirable in any version landscape design. Low-growing bushes can be used in the foreground of the composition, medium-growing ones will decorate the middle and background of plantings. Tall ones will decorate what you want to hide, camouflage outbuildings or an unsightly fence. Low growing varieties will be appropriate for alpine slide or scree. They can also be used to frame garden paths.

Low-growing varieties of astilbe can be used as a border for flower beds and lawns. An astilbe bush in a flower pot will decorate open veranda or garden gazebo.
This perennial looks impressive against the background of conifers such as thujas or junipers. Successful combination astilbe with hostas and ferns.

Carved perennial leaves will look even more delicate in joint plantings with hellebore, bergenia, podophyllum, rogersia or mantle. Very interesting combination astilbes with daylilies, aquilegias, lilies, geraniums, phlox or ferns. Planted together with hosta, astilbe enhances the beauty of its leaves, and the leaves retain soil moisture for astilbe.

Joint planting of astilbe and ground cover plants(saxifrage, tenacious, clearweed) achieves two goals - in early spring, when the astilbe is not yet visible, the ground cover creates an attractive spot, then the astilbe that has grown and gained color attracts attention to itself. In the hot season, ground covers protect the astilbe growth site from overheating.

In the spring garden, astilbe plantings are combined with primroses, crocuses, lilies of the valley, rhododendrons, and tulips.

Planted in the company of tall flowers, astilbe camouflages the bare stems of its neighbors. She is one of the rare ornamental plants, which grow and bloom well in conditions of lack of sun and excess moisture. If necessary, you can plant astilbes under trees, but this must be done at least 1.5 meters away from the tree trunk. With such planting, the roots of the tree will not be damaged and the astilbe will not be oppressed.

You can enjoy the flowering of astilbe in winter. To do this, it is enough to make a distillation.

Two to three year old bushes will bloom most readily at home. Suitable bushes are dug up at the end of September and, dividing into two or three parts, planted in flower pots with a diameter of at least 13 cm. The substrate needs to be loose and nutritious - turf soil, leaf soil, compost and sand (2:2:2:1). The planted plant is watered and placed in a greenhouse. For the winter, planted astilbe is insulated.

The pot is brought into the heat at the end of December and left in a cool place at a temperature no higher than +12 degrees. Watering should be done moderately. After about twenty days, shoots appear. The plant is transferred to more warm room Where it’s about +20, watering is increased. In a month or a month and a half, astilbe may bloom. One bush can grow up to seven full inflorescences.

If emerging shoots that have grown to 8-9 cm are sprayed with growth stimulants, the onset of flowering will accelerate. Gibbersib allows you to get flowers for 17-21 days, increase the number of inflorescences and the length of the peduncle. Astilbe flowers become exquisitely elegant.
Subsequently, the bush can be moved outdoors, or it can be grown indoors.

Planting and caring for astilbe is not difficult. Grow this bright perennial and delight yourself with astilbe flowers.

Not all shade-loving plants have luxurious bloom, like a bright spot against a background of dark green foliage. Astilbe differs from its herbaceous shade-tolerant relatives by its lush panicle-shaped inflorescence. The dullness of the leaves gives the plant a special appearance, allowing the bright colors to show through.

About the meaning of the name astilbe and a little history

Astilbe received its name for its inconspicuous matte leaves: “A” - without, negation; “stilba” - shine, it turns out “without shine”. The Scottish botanist Lord Hamilton was the first to include the plant in the herbaceous classification, which now has about 40 species, including perennial and annual varieties.

In nature, it is found along the banks of water bodies, most often growing in deciduous forests, but can grow on the shady slopes of the highlands. East Asia is considered to be the homeland. North America, Japanese islands, where astilbe was first discovered. Wet places make the green color dull and inconspicuous, but the inflorescences conquer gardeners.

European gardens became acquainted with the plant thanks to travelers who were looking for interesting, unusual things in different countries. Carl Thunberg and von Siebold brought the flower from Japan along with other exclusive products. The end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries is marked by the development of park culture in Russia, recreation and walks on fresh air are becoming popular among the population. Having found its use in decorating shady gardens, the banks of ponds, and small artificial reservoirs, astilbe has become popular among landscape designers and florists.

Description of astilbe

How to grow astilbe in the photo Astilbe ‘Bressingham Beauty’ (x arendsii)

Astilbe is a herbaceous perennial, the upper part of which dies off in the winter, and the rhizome remains in the ground. Naked for summer period the roots need to be covered with an additional layer of soil, and harsh climatic conditions require additional cover with special industrial material or foliage.

The height of the plant ranges from 8 cm to 2 m; you can choose a representative for any flower bed or architectural structure. Miniature dwarf species barely reach 30 cm, their flexible stem forms an arc shape, for which the flower is nicknamed “drooping”. Known varieties with drooping inflorescences are Tenberg and Lemoine. Despite the variety of colors, the choice remains on bright, saturated ones, which will look expressive on the shady side of the garden.

The leaf blade is not uniform, depending on the variety and place of growth. The color can vary from dark green in summer to brown-red in autumn. The leaf is planted on a long petiole, some varieties have a pinnate shape, others have a serrated edge. Most species are represented by a complex leaf structure, consisting of several pointed, heart-shaped leaves.

The underground part of the plant is distinguished by its heterogeneity: there are species with loose soft root, and some are strong tree-like. Many shoots extend from the central rhizome, the lower ones die off, and new ones form on top. The plant expands its root system upward by 3-5 cm, so in the fall the roots become exposed.

Astilbe in garden design Astilbe Japonica group ‘Europa’ photo of mixborder

An original combination would be planting together with astilbes and hostas, or Volzhanka. You will get a delicate composition with various types paniculate inflorescences. Just an airy mood!

Types and varieties of astilbe with photos and names

Thanks to many years of work by breeders, several hundred hybrid varieties astilbe. There are varietal groups specially developed for warm or cold climate zones. Some species get along well with spreading plants, while others need space. Before choosing seeds, you need to focus on weather climatic zone, neighboring plants in the flower bed, degree of watering.

No more than 12 species are popular; Arendsa, Chinese, Japanese, and simple-leaved are suitable for growing in the garden. They do not require special conditions and are easy to care for.

Astilbe Arendsii Astilbe Arendsii

Created by crossing David's astilbe with others, there are about 40 varieties with a long flowering period. Its inflorescences appear in early July, and the flowering season closes at the end of August. In autumn, it perfectly sets off other trees with dark green foliage. flowering plants. The bushes are powerful, reaching 1 m, with diamond-shaped or paniculate inflorescences. Known varieties: Amethyst, Weiss Gloria, Ruby (up to 80 cm), Diamond (up to 1 m).

Chinese astilbe Astilbe chinensis

Chinese astilbe variety Astilbe chinensis ‘Vision in Pink’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is a herbaceous bush more than 1 m with heterogeneous green mass. The lower leaves are wide on long petioles; after flowering they have a neat appearance, filling the flowerbed with a dark green lush mass. From top to inflorescence, the leaves are short with a shiny texture. The stem ends with a 30-35 cm panicle of small, brightly colored flowers. Presented by varieties not only standard height(Purpulans, Pink, Red), but also short (Pumila Hort, up to 15 cm).

Japanese hybrid Astilbe japonica hybrids

Japanese astilbe Astilbe ‘Montgomery’ (japonica hybrid) photo in the garden

A compact plant whose decorative value comes from the green mass of green, shiny leaves. The panicles of inflorescences begin to bloom by mid-June, which is several weeks earlier than other species. Excellent cold resistance has made the species popular in risky climates with unstable temperature conditions. Terry astilbe Montgomery is famous among gardeners; its inflorescences can be bright burgundy or red. There are varieties of white shade - Deutschland, pink - Reiland, pale lilac - Europe.

Simple-leaved hybrid astilbe Astilbe simplicifolia

Astilbe simplefolia ‘Hennie Graafland’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is not at all suitable for dry and hot climates, so in the steppe zone, where the sun is scorching, the plant will not have a place. The visiting card of the species are the drooping varieties Thunberg and Pricox Alba; their inflorescences create a floating web in the flowerbed. Low growth, 25-50 cm, openwork panicles of inflorescences make the plant popular in border flower beds. More often used as an accent on corners or central areas. This species can grow on sunny side, but the tone of the leaves will be lighter and the flowers will not be as rich.

Dwarf varieties can be grown in pots; they tolerate the home climate well. Some flowering arrangements are suitable as a gift. It feels better outdoors, so it is advisable to take flowerpots with indoor astilbe to the balcony or terrace of a private house in the summer.

Last year, while visiting a friend, I saw a beautiful white astilbe. In general, I really love perennials, especially flowering ones, so I decided to get myself such a miracle. Tell me how to plant astilbe in the spring?

Astilbe can be found in flower beds quite often, because this unpretentious perennial from the Saxifraga family has very beautiful view thanks to the amazing shape of carved green leaves with a red tint and a jagged edge. And when they bloom lush inflorescences, consisting of small flowers of very different colors, the plant serves as a decoration for the site all summer. However, some varieties can reach up to 2 m in height and look good when planted along a fence or in the background.

Growing astilbe is not difficult, because the plant does not require special growing conditions and care. It is enough to choose the right habitat for it, and soon the perennial will begin to actively grow roots and green mass.

It is noteworthy that the plant annually forms new buds in the upper part of the root system, while the lower one dies.

Astilbe should be planted in holes, leaving a distance between them of at least 30 cm. For tall specimens, you will need more space - up to 50 cm. Immediately before planting, add wood ash (0.5 tbsp.) and mineral complex fertilizers (1 tbsp.) to each hole. l.).

After planting, the bushes should be covered with mulch - it will help the moisture stay in the ground longer, and will also reliably protect the astilbe from frost during wintering.

Growing astilbe - video

grassy perennial Astilbe, distinguished by its decorativeness, long-lasting lush flowering, and shade tolerance, is valued by flower growers. garden plant astilbe planting and care open ground does not require special rules, but competent execution of simple rules will allow you to decorate your shady garden for the whole season.

Botany plants

Astilbe's native habitats are the broad-leaved forests of Japan, America, and the eastern regions of Asia. IN wildlife In Russia, two types of astilbe can be found in the Far East.

Astilbe is a perennial plant with an adventitious root system that grows unusually - vertically upward. The stem part grows over several years, becomes thicker and becomes covered with a large number of roots.

During the season, the astilbe flower is decorative with its wonderful inflorescences with transitions from pink to white. With the onset of cold weather, the upper part herbaceous plant dies.

In the selection of astilbe, there are varieties of medium height and tall ones, reaching a level of two meters.

Astilbe blooms in early summer, decorating the landscapes of parks, gardens and squares. The curly inflorescences of the flower continue to bloom for about a month.

Features of growing astilbe

Astilbe is an unpretentious plant that attracts gardeners with its characteristics of growing in open ground:

Astilbe is the queen of the shady garden. It blooms luxuriously in the shade of large trees. Bright sunlight shortens the duration of flowering, the bright panicles of the inflorescences become faded, fading in the sun;
This plant prefers soil that is moist and rich in humus. In dry areas, bushes lose their decorative properties;
The rhizome grows unusually, rising above the soil surface by about 4-5 cm, it becomes bare. An important condition for growing a healthy, strong bush is to hill the plant at the end of the season;

Gardeners unfamiliar with the nuances of growing astilbe end up with a very frozen plant that is not capable of full flowering.

Astilbe plantings can grow in one place without replanting for more than 15 years. A prerequisite for preserving the decorative appearance of the bush is annual fertilizing, moistening the soil around the bushes, and hilling. The following feeding of old bushes is necessary:

For spring fertilizing use fertilizers that contain nitrogen; hilling with humus is sufficient for the grown rhizome;
During the period of bud formation, the bushes are fed with fertilizers, the basis of which is potassium, for example, watering with a solution of potassium nitrate (dilute 2 tablespoons of fertilizer in 10 liters of water). Approximately 500 ml of prepared fertilizer is applied to each bush;
Faded plants are fertilized with phosphorus compounds. Each adult bush will require about 20 g of superphosphate.

Fertilizers can be applied in liquid form or in granules, mixing them with the soil around the bush. Fertilizing should be completed by mulching.

Methods for propagating astilbe

Powerful root system astilbe serves as a source of new seedlings. This is the easiest way to get the desired type and flower varieties. The most convenient time dividing the bush - this is early spring.

The rhizome must be dug up, shake off the soil and divide the rhizome so that the separated part has a root at least 5 cm long, adventitious roots and 3-4 buds. The procedure is performed using a sharp knife.

Important. From the dug up astilbe rhizome intended for division, it is necessary to remove dead and rotten parts. The planting material must be sufficiently moist. It is better not to use specimens with elongated, deformed sprouts for propagation. Such a plant will be sick for a long time, will not take root well, and the young plant will lose its decorative effect.

The planting site must be prepared individually for each plant:

The area allocated for planting astilbe is dug up using a spade bayonet;
Fertilize the soil with bone meal and complex fertilizers at the rate of 30 g of fertilizer and two handfuls of flour per 1 sq.m of bed;
Adding peat, humus, and compost to the soil completes the design of the planting site;
Under each bush of the plant, dig a hole, the volume of which should correspond to the size of the rhizome and be freely located in it;
Place bone meal, mineral fertilizer, ash at the bottom of the hole; hydrogel added along with fertilizers will provide the necessary soil moisture.
The plant should be planted so that the growth point is above the soil surface, avoiding deep deepening of the bush;
After planting, the soil around the bush is compacted; this procedure is necessary to remove the emptiness of the rhizome;
New planting and stilbes should be additionally watered and mulched, covering the soil under the plant with crushed bark or peat crumbs. The mulch layer should be at least 2 cm. This way you can maintain the necessary soil moisture and protect the roots of the planting material from drying out.

A crop grown from a separated part of the rhizome will retain all the characteristics of the species and variety and will allow one to obtain a plant of the desired selection.

Important. The rhizomes of the plant grow in a vertical upward direction. At the same time, its lower part gradually dies off, which over time deprives the root of nutrition. Hilling up the bush will prevent this process. Timely watering is a prerequisite for growing astilbe.

Seed propagation of perennials is mainly used by breeders, since there is a high probability of cross-pollination during the flowering period. In this case, varietal characteristics, as a rule, are not reproduced:

The inflorescences have a changed color;
Brushes may have a sparse structure;
General appearance plants are less decorative;
Flowering times change downward.

To grow astilbe from seeds, you should use only seeds High Quality from well-known companies.

In order for a seedling grown from seeds to form a powerful, well-developed root structure, it should not be replanted during the first five years.

Basic Rules seed propagation astilbes are as follows:

Treatment of seeds with cold for three weeks, followed by ventilation and drying in a warm, bright room. This procedure improves seed germination;
Prepare containers for planting seeds by filling them with a nutrient mixture consisting of three parts peat and one part sand;
For ease of sowing small seeds their astilbes are mixed with sand;
Distribute the seeds in an even layer on the unprepared surface of the soil mixture;
Moisten the seeds using a spray bottle. Spray watering should be continued for a month until the seeds germinate;
With the appearance of the first leaf, the seedlings dive, carefully pulling each seedling out of the soil mixture. Pinching the root, remove one third of the length;
Plant the seedlings in another container, the soil in which should be moist, which will ensure easier survival of the seeds;
Astilbe seedlings are planted in open ground after a year, as the seedlings grow very slowly;
Flowering occurs only in the third year.

The third method of propagating astilbe is by separating the bud from the mother bush. To do this, it is necessary to rake away the soil from the base of the bush, freeing the bud, which is cut out with part of the rhizome. No more than 2-3 buds can be cut from one bush.

When planting astilbe in open ground, the bud and root are given the opportunity to take root in the greenhouse. To do this, a soil mixture of peat and sand is distributed over the surface of the soil and the prepared parts are planted in holes. Next, the seedlings are watered and planted in open ground in the spring of next year. In the same year, astilbe plantings will delight you with their flowering.

In the second year of the plant’s life, it should be fed with solutions of organic and mineral fertilizers. Young plantings should be covered with the onset of cold weather.

Important. Astilbe serves as a real decoration for the garden if a shady, moist area that is comfortable for it is chosen for planting. Early or late varieties astilbe can be planted in sunny areas. Astilbe, which blooms in July, feels comfortable in the sparse shade of the garden; in sunny areas, the plant sharply reduces the timing and splendor of flowering.

Rules for caring for astilbe

To ensure that astilbe plantings do not get sick and are not attacked by pests, you need to pay attention to them and provide proper care, taking into account the characteristics of the plant:

It is necessary to ensure timely watering of the bushes of the plant, which has a unique growth of the root system. Young roots formed on vertically growing stems need nutrition and watering, so the top layer of soil under the bush must be provided with moisture and fertilizing.

In hot dry days summer days the plant should be watered early in the morning and in the evening with mandatory root mulching of the plantings. Young plants may dry out due to lack of moisture;

The astilbe flower is responsive to regular feeding. They provide long-lasting and lush flowering. The technology for growing astilbe requires fertilizing at least twice a year. The first fertilizing is carried out in early spring with the appearance of new shoots with a complex nitrogen-containing fertilizer;

The next mandatory feeding is autumn. For this procedure, fertilizer solutions containing phosphorus and potassium are used. Watering is carried out carefully, avoiding the solution getting on the stems of the plant. After fertilizing, the soil around the bushes needs to be loosened and sprinkled with mulch.

In late autumn, the herbaceous above-ground part of the bush is pruned. Cut the stems at ground level;

Pruning of inflorescences after flowering is allowed. New leaves will grow in their place.

Proper preparation of planting astilbe flowers for wintering will allow you to get healthy bushes. During the growing season, the astilbe plant forms roots above the soil surface. To prevent the roots from freezing in frosts, the bushes should be mulched and the spaces between the bushes should be covered with spruce branches and sawdust. Place spruce branches on top of the bushes to ensure snow retention over the plants in winter.

Pests and diseases of astilbe

All types and varieties of astilbe are resistant to pests and diseases, since an adult plant is capable of independently destroying weeds in which pests and pathogens multiply. Therefore, planting and caring for astilbe is carried out with minimal costs effort.

However, this plant has pests that require human help to combat:

The slobbering pennitsa is a sucking insect that sucks out the juice from the plant. Pennywort larvae, settling in the axils of the leaves, in the dwellings of lumps of foam, also feed on astilbe juice. Plants damaged by pentilica practically do not grow, and flower stalks do not develop well. If the slobber has multiplied greatly, you can treat the plant folk remedies, for example, infusion of wormwood;
Strawberry nematodes are worms that gnaw through the buds and leaves of astilby, disrupting the movement of juice. Damaged areas die, plants are suppressed, and their growth and flowering stop. When nematode worms are detected; Affected plants should be removed immediately and burned, chemicals do not give good results;
Small worms no larger than 2 mm salt on the roots of plants, forming pathological swellings and galls on them. These formations interfere with the full functioning of the roots. A plant affected by a nematode must be destroyed. New plantings in this area are not recommended.

Astilbes of different colors are an amazing garden decoration. It looks great in the form of single inclusions in shady garden, in group plantings, as well as near pools and reservoirs.