The most popular cultivators of the KPS-4 type were developed for the first Soviet tractors with a hydraulic system. However, they are still widely used, especially in small-scale production. At the base enterprise of Progress CJSC in the Cheboksary region of the Chuvash Republic, three MTZ-80/82+KPS-4 units are used annually both in spring field work and in preparing the soil for winter crops. Thus, in the fall of 2012 alone, they cultivated 850 hectares for winter crops. According to the director of the company V.I. Yakovlev, these cultivators are not yet worthy replacement for specific weather conditions Volga region. However, interruptions in the supply or supply of low-quality spare parts (universal pointed shares, stands) forced agricultural machinery repairers to look for ways to restore the most worn-out components.
Measurements taken for 30 pcs. used universal pointed shares (USL) with a width of 330 and 270 mm from two KPS-4 steam cultivators showed that their rejection was carried out based on the wear of the toe of the CD share, where with back side The layer deposited with carbide material was completely worn out (Fig. 11.3, a). Further operation of these USLs is not advisable due to intense wear of the toe and dullness, which ultimately leads to an increase in traction resistance and excessive fuel consumption. In this case, the radius of curvature of the worn USL toe is within the range of 39....46 mm. However, on the rear side of the USL wings, a strip of deposited hard-alloy material with a width of k1 ~ k2 = 9.7...12.3 mm has been preserved, and the thickness of the wing is 3.2...4.3 mm. Measurements were taken in the middle of the wing. Calculations for residual strength showed that the wings of the rejected paws will fully withstand the load that occurs on the blade when processing even clogged clean steam, as well as during its acceleration and deepening on medium soils.
The most technologically advanced option for restoring the toes of the specified USL is to weld a trapezoidal lining onto the toe (Figures 11.1 and 11.2), already deposited with carbide material on the back side. This shape of the pad is similar to the tip of a chisel-shaped ripper. As the starting material for the lining, a rejected skimmer share (N 07420010, P.701, etc.) can be used, in which the toe HO of the HJ line is also subject to the most intense wear (Fig. 11.3). The radius of curvature HJ at the time of discarding the share was 30...33 mm, and at the same time, on the rest of the blade there was a carbide surfacing with a width of k3 = 10.5...13.5 mm, the average thickness of the mating plane of the share to the stand was 6.5 mm (Fig. 11.3).
The following technology for restoration work has been developed. The worn toe of the paw is aligned along the perpendicular line mn to the symmetry axis USL. In this case, its width CD should be no more than 40...45 mm (Fig. 11.3, a). Using a cutting wheel, trapezoidal blanks are cut from the discarded skimmer share (Fig. 11.4). Since the skimmer share is in cross section has a radius of curvature p, then the workpiece is straightened along the line st. Then, for a reliable welded joint, a chamfer is removed from the back side of the workpiece between the magazine and the mating plane of the ploughshare to the stand (Fig. 11.4), and the ploughshare magazine thus serves as a stop (shoulders) for the lining. From one skimmer share you can get 4-5 pcs. overlays
It is better to weld the cover on the USL together with the stand. The plate and USL connected together are secured in a vice or with a clamp, and are secured by electric welding from the front side at three points and from the back side along the CD line. After checking for the coincidence of the symmetry axes of the lining, USL and stand, and the absence of distortions, welding is carried out on the front side along the open CGFD contour with an overlap and on the back side of the HO line CD end-to-end butt-to-shoulder. Thus, in general, a closed loop is obtained for welding the overlay onto the USL, which provides sufficient strength. During welding, the mounting holes of the skimmer share are sealed.
When welding, as a result of thermal stresses, the parts being welded bend inward. Welding the lining along the CGFD contour bends the USL wings upward by 10...15 mm, significantly violating the geometric parameters of the entire working body. Therefore, immediately after welding, the wings are straightened using a previously prepared device. On a horizontal platform, a new paw (for example, N-043.052.008-B with a width of 330 mm) with a CO rack (for example, N-043.11.407) is installed in a position in which the straight part of the rack is closely leaned against the vertical wall, and the blades of the roofs are closely adjacent to the horizontal platform (Fig. 11.3). In this position, the lines of the blades on the horizontal platform are indicated. Since after restoration the cutting tip of the pad will partially protrude downwards, a small indentation of up to 8...10 mm must be made in place of the UKK toe. In this case, the height of the working body H can be in the range of 425...460 mm, reach L = 260 mm, radius R = 230 mm, crumbling angle α = 16° (Fig. 11.3).
When installing the restored USL and stand on the fixture, the toe of the paw will touch the horizontal platform, and the wings of the paw will be bent upward. Straightening consists of adjusting the wing blades along the drawn lines of the template on a horizontal platform. It is more rational to carry out the operation together: the welder welds the pad, and the mechanic immediately additionally heats the toe with a propane cutter and straightens it. Then the USL is cooled in the open air in order to normalize the metal structure. USL aligned in this way does not require additional adjustment when installed on a cultivator.
Overlays for the USL can be cut from the plowshares of the PRVN-53 adaptation for the PRVN-2.5 vineyard plow. Since these devices were intended for updating the planting of vineyards and hop fields and were used extremely rarely in practice, the ploughshares were still preserved in the warehouses of agricultural enterprises. The width of the PRVN share is 85 mm (length A, Fig. 11.3). However, in this case the pad will not have shoulders on the back side.
The USLs restored in this way were used to prepare the soil for sowing during spring field work in 2013. The average cultivation depth is 10...12 cm. Agrofon - autumn moldboard plowing to a depth of 22...24 cm and autumn processing stubble cultivators to a depth of 15...16 cm. There were no bends of the pad and the paw in general, no separation of the pad from the paw and the paw from the stand. There is minimal wear on the weld on the face of the paw. Clogging of repaired USL - no newer ones, no differences were observed. The restoration method is also applicable for restoring the paws of row-crop cultivators KON-2.8, KOR-4.2, KRN-4.2 and their modern analogues.
The cost of restoring USL in 2012 prices was 20...23 rubles/piece. Based on operating experience in 2013, the resource of the restored paw is about 1/2...1/3 of the resource of the new one. The developed technology for restoring USL is of interest to private households and farms that do not have large cultivation areas and the ability to purchase new modern cultivators.
The service life of the KPS-4G cultivator stands when cultivating loamy and medium loamy soil in the conditions of the Middle Volga region is 2..3 years. The main material of the stands is steel MSt.5 and MSt.6, which is less wear-resistant to abrasive soil particles than the material of the universal pointed paw - steel 65G or 70G. The shaded area BC is subject to the greatest wear (Fig. 11.5, a), and when worn to a depth of 8...11 mm, the stand bends backwards.
In order to restore the worn-out zone BC, the following method was proposed and implemented in the PMM of Progress CJSC, Cheboksary district of the Chechen Republic. The worn area was first filled with electric welding, maintaining a radius of curvature of approximately 230 mm. The sanding machine was leveled and cleaned using a pneumatic grinding machine welded surface of aircraft. The stand was then examined for cracks and holes. Detected defects were eliminated again by welding methods, and the surface was re-cleaned.
Next, using a “Sormaita-1” rod with a diameter of 5...6 mm as a filler wire, using an electric welding machine DC the surface BC is hardened. The polarity of the device connection is according to the electrodes used, however, according to welders, with reverse polarity the arc is more stable and a better deposited layer is formed. The current strength for surfacing with electrodes with a diameter of 04.0 mm is 220...240 A, for electrodes 05.0 mm - 230...260 A. When cooling the deposited stand in an open environment, additional heat treatment not required. When surfacing the strut, the radius of curvature of the strut decreases due to the tightening of the seam, however, the adjustment limits on cultivators make it possible to adjust the paw according to the operating instructions.
As many years of experience in such restoration and strengthening show, repaired racks have a service life of 1.6...1.8 times longer than new ones. The service life of a new deposited strut increases more than 2 times.
Since manufacturers of cultivators do not surfacing the strut with carbide, it is rational to surfacing new ones. In order to remove paint and preservative grease, a new stand with a pointed tine is installed on the cultivator. In 2...3 shifts, the BC surface is completely cleaned, the stand with the paw is removed from the cultivator and surfacing is performed without dismantling the paw. The service life of the new rack increases about 2 times, and as the carbide layer wears out, its repeated surfacing cannot be ruled out.
The practical value of the proposal lies in a significant increase in the service life of the cultivator stands, and the method in its application for electric welding surfacing.
Chisel-shaped loosening paws (Fig. 11.5, b) are not always used in practice. However, it is possible to use them as a cultivator stand. For this purpose, the area of the mounting holes for fastening the lancet foot is reinforced with steel plates 5...6 mm thick on both sides. After welding work, the rack is cooled in the open air. Then according to Fig. 11.5,6 are marked and holes are drilled using a 011 mm drill.
The radius of curvature of the bit is 250 mm, and the radius of the pointed foot is 230 mm. The difference of 20 mm is practically not reflected in the technological characteristics of the working body, since adjusting the fastening of the stand to the beam eliminates minor design errors.
The material for the chisel-shaped paw is 65G or 70G steel. However, strengthening the wear zone of the newly manufactured rack in the manner described above is necessary.
A hand cultivator is a tool for gardening work related to cultivating and loosening the soil. We will talk about several design options for this tool, starting with the simplest manual option and ending with an option with an electric motor.
Making a manual cultivator with your own hands
The simplest option is the Tornado cultivator
The simplest cultivator in its design, the Tornado, is a bit like a corkscrew on a vertical handle ending in a horizontal handle.
"Tornado" - manual cultivator for processing light soil
It is easy to make yourself, using ordinary pitchforks. First, buy a plastic attachment for the shovel handle in the form of a handle at a hardware store - they are used on both forks and shovels for ease of work. Since the handle of the original Tornado is a long horizontal tube, our handle also needs to be modified.
To do this, we use a piece of plastic pipe about half a meter long and with a diameter slightly larger than the thickness of the plastic shovel attachment we purchased. Carefully cut the pipe lengthwise, then turn the edges of the cut to the sides and put it on the purchased nozzle. It is advisable to tape the pipe to the handle of the nozzle so that it does not fidget during operation and does not move from its original position. As a result, our horizontal cultivator handle will protrude to a length of approximately 25 cm in both directions.
Making a handle for a manual cultivator Tornado
Now you can do the fun part and bend the fork teeth into a corkscrew shape. To do this, we will use an ordinary hammer, the blows of which will bend the metal teeth in any direction. It is necessary to check the result with a photograph of the original model of such a cultivator and carefully repeat all the bends of the teeth on it
Variant of a cultivator made from bicycle parts
Another manual cultivator offered to your attention has a more complex device and one might even say that it is partly mechanized. To make it we need a frame and a wheel from any old bicycle.
Hand cultivator made from bicycle parts
We attach a cultivator head to the bicycle frame, which can be a ready-made head from a cultivator or a hand-made structure from sharpened steel rods. If you have a cultivator head, you can use a small plow.
A comfortable handle for reliable control of the cultivator is made from pieces of steel pipes or aluminum. For the crossbar, take a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm. All parts of the cultivator are assembled together with bolts, the nuts on which are tightened as much as possible so that the entire structure is rigid.
Structural diagram of a manual cultivator made from bicycle parts
A medium-diameter wheel is bolted to the frame using special wing nuts or regular locknuts.
With this homemade cultivator you can easily destroy weeds by weeding the space between the rows of plants.
How to make a hand cultivator
The main part of this model of a homemade cultivator is five steel discs-pancakes, which are put on an axle and can be rotated on it. Three of the five disks contain sharp L-shaped teeth, which are working bodies for loosening the soil. At the ends of the axle there are trunnions with bearings, to which steel brackets are attached, connected to a wooden handle.
Tine plower diagram:
- 1 - discs-pancakes,
- 2 - L-shaped teeth,
- 3 - axle, 4 - axle,
- 5 - steel bracket,
- 6 - handle
The pancake discs and axle are either machined independently. or an order is placed for their production at lathe. Five holes are drilled in the outer surfaces and in the side faces of the three disks to secure teeth from a steel bar with a diameter of 10 mm.
Discs with teeth are put on the axle, then we install axles with bearings and washers.
Rolling over the soil, the cultivator discs stick their teeth into the ground and loosen its top layer. The sharp teeth cut the roots of weeds, crush the soil and promote its aeration.
Disc rotary cultivator
With a homemade rotary cultivator you can perform harrowing, break up large pieces of earth and level the surface of the area. The diagram of this model is shown below in the figure and is called a disc cultivator.
Homemade disc cultivator:
- 1-disk,
- 2 - axis.
- 3 - bushing,
- 4 - large bracket,
- 5 - small bracket,
- 6 - rod,
- 7 - pipe,
- 8 - handle
The working parts of the disk cultivator are hemispherical convex disks welded to bushings. Two hemispherical disks are placed on two axles, the ends of which are secured in brackets with cotter pins.
Pipe 7 with a crossbar into which handles 8 are screwed passes through a special ledge welded to a large bracket 4. The end of a rod 250 mm long and 24x2 mm in diameter with a blind threaded hole is welded to the small bracket 5 with a blind threaded hole into which a rod with a diameter of 16 mm is screwed, the upper end of which ( with lambs) protrudes above the crossbar.
Steel disks 1 must have a hemispherical shape, and it is not easy to make them with this shape from ordinary steel plates 4 mm thick. You need to hit the bowls hard with a hammer to “knock” the bowls out of the blanks.
The wings at the end of the rod allow you to adjust the angular position of the hemispherical disks. When the wings rotate clockwise, the rod and rod move upward, lifting up the small bracket and the inner ends of the axles, as a result of which the angular position of the disks will change.
Hand cultivator video compilation
There are many more ways to make cultivators for loosening the soil with your own hands, for example, designs of homemade cultivators from a chainsaw are known.
All you need is the ability to understand a little about machine parts and electrical engineering, as well as a little imagination. Here interesting video, which shows how to make your own electric cultivator from a bicycle frame, chain and sprocket, as well as an engine washing machine.
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How to make a homemade electric cultivator, photo, video
Making a cultivator with your own hands
Tarpan motor cultivator, reviews, description, characteristics and videoThe second most important thing after plowing is tilling the land with a cultivator. On subsidiary farms and summer cottages, such work is carried out with a manual or mechanical cultivator.
However, all these devices are expensive, and the point of saving on growing your own crops is lost.
Therefore, most gardeners and amateur gardeners make a mechanical cultivator with their own hands.
If you have the tools and basic material resources (channels, pipes, steel angles, a more or less decent engine, wheels), a homemade motor cultivator can be made in a couple of weekends, keeping costs to a minimum.
How to make a cultivator with your own hands from scrap materials?
First of all, let's figure out what types of mechanized garden assistants exist.
According to the type of power plant, motor cultivators are either electric or with an internal combustion engine.
The first option is preferable personal plots with normal energy supply. Costs of use are lower, high environmental friendliness, ease of maintenance. Making such a cultivator with your own hands is not at all difficult.
The internal combustion engine design involves using the mechanism away from the point of connection to the power supply. Maintenance costs are higher and maintenance is more difficult. You have to work in a harmful environment of exhaust gases. These shortcomings are compensated by the complete autonomy of the application. You drive out into the field, start the engine, and you work until your fuel supplies run out.
According to the method of tillage.
The cultivator can be self-propelled, that is, equipped with driven wheels. Or it may only have a rotating working attachment, which at the same time serves as a means of movement.
In the first case (which is, of course, more difficult to manufacture), two gearboxes are used. One ensures movement of the mechanism at a given speed using drive wheels.
The second gearbox (usually faster) rotates the rotor-type attachment, ensuring loosening of the soil. If the cultivator has drive wheels, flat-cutting knives can be hung on it.
There are simplified designs in which the wheels are not driving, but simply rest on the surface, making movement easier. The forward movement occurs due to the rotation of the rotary nozzle.
Cultivators without drive or support wheels are easier to manufacture and also have less weight. However, during operation it is necessary to expend more physical effort to keep the mechanism on the trajectory.
Therefore, homemade gardeners most often make wheels for a cultivator with their own hands, and get a more functional and convenient tool.
A cultivator is an agricultural tool for loosening the soil and weeding it, hilling plants and cutting beds, as well as harrowing the soil. It greatly facilitates heavy earthworks.
Gardening time takes a lot of free time and physical effort. But work on the land should in no way be a burden or threaten human health, but, on the contrary, bring bright and positive moments into life. The solution to this problem is to purchase an irreplaceable useful assistant– cultivator.
The problem of choice
Many summer residents and amateur gardeners, having decided to acquire such an assistant, are faced with the problem of how to choose the right cultivator for their garden. In order for the purchase to be necessary, you must keep in mind the following parameters and technical specifications:
- Cultivator power. The soil is cultivated to a greater depth and at a greater speed with greater power of the cultivator. It should also be borne in mind that the wider the swath, the higher the productivity and the lower the cost of working time;
- Unit weight. A cultivator for a summer residence, which has more power, and weighs, accordingly, more;
- Knife material. The cultivator's knives are its main working body, and therefore they must be made of high quality steel. This guarantees both a long service life and high quality unit operation;
- Reliability of the cultivator. Owners can tell you about all the pros and cons of a particular model. How this or that modification works, you need to verify in person, in practice - at what depth the cutters work, how wide the working strip is.
Thus, cultivators for continuous tillage are indispensable for preparing for sowing with simultaneous harrowing. There are models for pre-sowing treatment - they loosen, level and remove weeds at the same time.
Some varieties of inter-row cultivators also apply fertilizers. In addition, many cultivators come with a variety of attachments: hay mower, potato digger, plow, etc. Thanks to this, plowing, planting, digging up root crops, pruning and many others are added to the main functions of these assistant machines.
The main thing to consider when purchasing is the performance and energy intensity of the cultivator. If garden plot small, there is no point in an expensive and powerful unit.
A cultivator for a garden, be it electric or gasoline, is a rather expensive tool for the family budget. What should a gardener or summer resident do if the prices for such equipment do not allow for the purchase, and shoveling work is difficult and unproductive? In such a situation, we can advise you to make a homemade cultivator for your dacha yourself.
You can suggest making a homemade cultivator from a Minsk-type motorcycle, a chainsaw, or a bicycle. And the easiest way is to build a cultivator from the frame of an ordinary children's bicycle and a wheel - that is, from any country scrap metal.
For such a homemade cultivator, you will also need an additional lancet cultivator share. It can be purchased inexpensively at garden store, or you can, after digging around thoroughly, find it in a pile of unnecessary things in a country shed, or ask your neighbors.
- Support wheel;
- Lancet cultivator paw;
- Bicycle frame.
As can be seen from the schematic drawing, the design is extremely simple and understandable. Any amateur gardener is able to understand the device and build a similar unit. Despite its simplicity, such a cultivator will provide significant assistance in work, for example, in 40 minutes, digging up 5 acres of a field with potatoes.
A homemade electric cultivator can be made with your own hands using the engine from a washing machine. In addition, you will need a frame, a sprocket, and a bicycle chain.
Purchasing a cultivator for a summer residence is a saving of energy and time for owners of personal plots, and a guarantee of maintaining health during work.