Scooter... for adults. Homemade scooter from old bicycles with your own hands Homemade scooter with wheels from a wheelbarrow

A scooter, of course, is not, but it allows you to save a lot of energy on moving, especially if you use it constantly.

A homemade scooter is easy to make, its cost is minimal, and the benefits for the health of the body are simply invaluable! After all, it is known that constant, uniform loads strengthen the heart muscle and increase the overall tone of the body. A scooter assembled by yourself greatly helps to increase endurance, if, of course, it is used daily.

Wooden scooter for commuting. The scooter was made of 10 mm plywood and furniture board 28 mm, the last one went to the support platform.

The front fork of the scooter is taken from a standard bicycle (20-inch wheel), the rear wheel has a smaller diameter (12 inches).

The scooter was assembled with your own hands, self-tapping screws and furniture corners were used as fasteners, except for the glue, all parts were glued with PVA glue.

Over the summer of 2012, more than 600 km were covered on a homemade scooter.

It is worth adding to this description that such a homemade scooter is much better than a purchased one. I have not seen a normal scooter with pneumatic tires at an affordable price. Even scooters with 2 suspensions (under each wheel) from Decathlon do not allow driving on grass or a country road, and even when driving on paving slabs or the chipped asphalt on the roadway “knocks” and vibrates very strongly, which makes driving very quickly boring.

Bicycle wheels used in a homemade scooter allow you to avoid such shaking, and the large diameter of the wheels helps on off-road conditions. In addition, you yourself can design the ground clearance of your scooter, if you ride on a country road - make it larger!

At correct production and subsequent treatment with varnish (preferably waterproof - for example, yacht varnish), a homemade scooter will serve you for many years!

More articles for DIYers.

A scooter, of course, is not, but it allows you to save a lot of energy on moving, especially if you use it constantly.

Wooden scooter for commuting. The scooter was made of 10 mm plywood and 28 mm furniture board, the latter went to the support platform.

The front fork of the scooter is taken from a standard bicycle (20-inch wheel), the rear wheel has a smaller diameter (12 inches).

The scooter was assembled with your own hands, self-tapping screws and furniture corners were used as fasteners, except for the glue, all parts were glued with PVA glue.

Over the summer of 2012, more than 600 km were covered on a homemade scooter.

It is worth adding to this description that such a homemade scooter is much better than a purchased one. I have not seen a normal scooter with pneumatic tires at an affordable price. Even scooters with 2 suspensions (for each wheel) from Decathlon do not allow driving on grass or a country road, and when driving on paving slabs or chipped asphalt on the roadway, they “knock” and vibrate very strongly, which makes riding very quickly boring.

With proper manufacturing and subsequent treatment with varnish (preferably waterproof - for example, yacht varnish), a homemade scooter will serve you for many years!

More articles for DIYers.

Scooters appeared in the 1920s. They were originally just children's toys, but have now become a very common form of transport all over the world - from the simplest variety, pushed by the foot, up to numerous types of scooters with motors. Just like the guys in the 1920s, you can build a simple wooden scooter. Here's how to do it.

To make a scooter you will need

Workbench or saw sawhorse
Fixed square for carpentry work
Electric drill with drills with a diameter of 0.6 cm and 13 mm.
Two adjustable wrenches
Centimeter tape
Phillips screwdriver
Pencil
Sharp saw
Hammer
Machined for longitudinal bars, handle and handle post 3.8 cm x 5.1 cm
Treated pine for connecting neck 5.1 cm x 7.6 cm
for deck-footrest 1.9 cm thick
Four ring bolts: two bolts 0.6 cm thick, 5.1 cm long, with a ring hole diameter of 1.6 cm and two bolts 0.6 cm thick, 7.6 cm long, with a ring hole diameter of 1.6 cm [J]
Four carriage bolts, 0.6 cm thick, 4.4 cm long, with washers and nuts for each
Two hex bolts, 0.6 cm thick, 7 cm long, with nuts for each
Six carriage bolts, 0.6 cm thick, 4.4 cm long, with washers and nuts for each
Two carriage bolts, 1.3 cm thick, 12.7 cm long, with washers and nuts for each
One hex head bolt, 1.3 cm thick, 15.2 cm long, with two nuts (screw in downsides) and four washers. This is a pain for the front axle of the wheels
One hex head bolt, 1.3cm thick, 15.2cm long, with two nuts (counter-tightening) and four washers. This is a bolt for the rear axle of the wheels
One carriage bolt, 1.3 cm thick, 20.3 long, with two nuts (screw in the opposite direction). This bolt fits into the O-ring bolt holes and acts as a swivel rod

We will build a scooter like this

Measure, saw off, drill holes and arrange: a) Saw off pieces of wood in accordance with the indicated dimensions. b) Carefully measure and mark the centers of the holes to be drilled. c) Then we drilled the holes. Please note that they are of two different diameters. The holes for the axial bolts and the bolts that secure [A] to the connecting neck [C] have a diameter of 1.3 cm. All other holes have a diameter of 0.6 cm. d) Lay out all the parts on the floor.
Assemble the scooter handle: Attach two corner brackets [I] to the top of the handlebar post [E]. Then bolt the handle [F] into place.
Assemble the front wheels of the scooter: Assemble the front wheels using a 1.3 cm thick bolt as the wheel axle. Place a washer on each side of each wheel. After checking that the assembled axle is not too tight to allow the wheels to spin freely, tighten the two nuts opposite each other to create a “lock nut.” This will help ensure that the assembled axle does not vibrate during constant movement. Place the two O-ring bolts in the corresponding holes in the steering column [E].
Assemble the platform frame: Attach two longitudinal bars [A] to the connecting neck [C]. Place the remaining two O-ring bolts into the corresponding holes in the connecting neck [C].
Attach the Deck: Attach the deck [D] to the two side rails [A] with six carriage bolts.
Join steering: Align the collar bolt rings [C] with the steering column bolt rings [E]. Place a carriage bolt through the ring bolt holes to act as a kingpin—the pivot pin for the swivel joint. Check that the swivel joint can turn freely, and then tighten the two nuts on the carriage bolt to create a “lock nut.” This will ensure that the rod does not fall out and does not vibrate with constant movement.
Install the connecting neck: Attach the corner bracket to the connecting neck [C] and deck [D] with screws. This is done to strengthen the structure.
Assemble the rear wheels of the scooter: Assemble the rear wheels in the same way as the front wheels in step 3. Make sure there is a washer on each side of the wheel and that the wheels rotate freely before tightening the “lock nut” on the end of the bolt.
Add Brake: Screw the T-Loop to the back of the deck [D].

Safety when using a homemade scooter

Smooth paved surfaces are best; Avoid uneven, wet, rocky surfaces with bumps. Stay away from traffic!

How far can a person cover by pushing off the ground once? If this is one step, then on average it is less than meters. If you run up and push off harder, you can jump four or five meters. Therefore, imagine our surprise when a modest, no longer young man appeared in the editorial office and declared that he could move 50 m with one push of his leg, and even with a load of 30 kg. The visitor had some kind of strange cart in his hands. We, understandably, doubted it.

And when they doubted it, they demanded proof.

“Well, please,” the owner of the strange cart told us. - Let's go outside. Here, on the asphalt, we were convinced that we were not being deceived.

Upon closer inspection, the “cart” turned out to be a converted children's scooter. Our guest, engineer Sergei Stanislavovich Lundovsky, managed to turn it into something unusual vehicle for adults.

How did you manage to “grow up” the scooter? What is the essence of his alteration? First of all, the maximum permissible lowering of the platform on which the “driver” stands. The ground clearance of the converted scooter when loaded is only 30 mm. But this, as practice has shown, is quite enough for driving not only on smooth asphalt, but also on country paths. When the bottom hits uneven roads, the scooter simply slides forward. And if a larger obstacle is encountered, the driver can help his car by pulling the steering wheel up and thus lifting the front wheel.

Lowering the platform lowered the center of gravity of the machine, which had a beneficial effect on its stability and made it easy to reach the ground with a “push” leg, without bending the supporting leg at all. And thanks to this, the driver gets tired much less than when using a scooter with a standard (high) platform.

The car is made on the basis of the children's sports scooter "Orlik" (costs 14 rubles). As shown in the picture, the fork legs leading to the rear wheel and the front part of the roller blade have been cut off. A new platform is made from a steel angle 20X20X5 mm to the size of the boot; in the drawing its length is 320 mm, which is the most advantageous. The front part of the factory sports scooter is connected to the platform with a clamp welded to the pipe and four M8 bolts. A plate about 20 mm thick is placed under the clamp legs, with the help of which the platform inclination that is most convenient for the driver can be found.

The length of the steering tube should be increased so that the driver can comfortably control the car without bending.

The rear wheel fork is made from the same angle as the platform itself.

A stamped luggage frame from a bicycle is used as a trunk, which is best placed above the front wheel. It is attached to the steering column head and to the front axle. You cannot place the trunk at the back, as the load makes it difficult for the pushing leg to move.

You should start learning to ride a roller skate on a flat, non-sloping asphalt area. The main attention is paid to practicing a long and strong, but not sharp kick with the leg, as well as mastering the movement of inertia. In this case, the steering wheel must be completely motionless, otherwise (due to increased resistance) the speed quickly drops.

During training, it is quickly determined which leg is the most efficient as a supporting leg and which as a pushing leg.

S. LUNDOWSKY, engineer

The front part is made of mountain material, and a hand brake is also installed here. As for the rear part, a smaller diameter wheel from a children's bicycle is used here. The author got the bikes almost free of charge. To create a powerful frame that will not bend under the weight of a person, a thick-walled metal pipe is used. The scooter is assembled quite quickly and easily. It is enough to have some basic skills in working with the tool.

Materials and tools for making a scooter:
- the front part of an adult mountain bike;
- rear fork with a wheel from a children's bicycle;
- steel plates;
- screws;
- a piece of strong metal pipe to create a frame;
- wrenches;
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- dye.

Scooter manufacturing process:

Step one. We disassemble bicycles
First you need to get necessary elements to create a scooter. For a mountain bike, you will need a front fork with a wheel, and you also need to leave a handbrake. You need to take a grinder and cut off the frame from the front fork, as you can see in the photo. In addition to this, there is also another option, you don’t have to cut it bottom part frame, but simply extend it with a piece of pipe if it is rigid enough to create a scooter.

As for the rear fork from a children's bicycle, it all depends on the design. If this is also a mountain bike, then you can simply unscrew the fork. If it’s an ordinary one, you’ll also have to work with an angle grinder.

Step two. We create a frame and weld the structure
To create a frame you need to take metal pipe and bend it so that its shape is approximately the same as in the photo. The pipe must be strong so that it does not bend under the weight of a person. One end of the pipe is welded to the front fork, and the author welds a metal plate to the other end. Next, the rear fork is welded to this plate, so the design is more reliable, since the rear wheel bears the greatest load.

Step three. Attaching the board
To make it comfortable to stand on the scooter while riding, you need to screw a board to its frame. For these purposes, you first need to weld 2-3 metal plates and drill holes in them. Well, then the board is simply screwed to the plates using screws with nuts or self-tapping screws. You will need to make a cut in the board, as in the photo, so that the frame fits into it.

Step four. Scooter painting
You can paint the scooter to suit your taste. The author used matte black spray paint for the frame. As for the board and rear wheel, bright fluorescent paint pink color. This is the color that most suited the author’s daughter.

That's all, now the scooter is ready for testing.