Polycarbonate greenhouse: sizes and types of shapes. Let's find out what's easier: make a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands or buy a ready-made one. What is the best way to make a greenhouse?

Vegetables grown on your own plot are distinguished by an abundance of nutrients and the best taste.

Your seedlings need to be protected from influences environment what greenhouses are used for and greenhouses. If you know the differences between them, you can easily choose exactly what is more suitable for the needs of a particular gardener.

So, greenhouse can be called a small building without heating. It is intended for seedlings and their protection from external environment. Subsequently, the plants are transferred to open ground.

A greenhouse is a structure for the growth of plants throughout the entire period of their life from planting seeds to harvesting. This structure is in most cases heated.

Differences between a greenhouse and a greenhouse

The design of the greenhouse is significantly stronger and more complex than that of a greenhouse. Most often, it is based on a full-fledged foundation, there is a roof and walls. The material is polyethylene, glass or polycarbonate.

Even an untrained person can make a greenhouse. Most often, a semicircular roof is constructed, which is covered with polyethylene. Somewhat less often, the greenhouse is covered with cellular polycarbonate or glass.

A greenhouse is a relatively small structure that can be easily moved to another location. Heat is generated from sunlight and buried biofuel (compost or manure).

In greenhouses, electric heaters are used for heating, as well as steam and water systems, so frost is not dangerous for seedlings.

Tools and materials for creating a greenhouse

To manufacture parts and assemble a polycarbonate greenhouse as a whole, you will need the following tools and materials:

Safety glasses;
Angle grinding machine(popularly “grinder”) and wheels for it;
If you don’t have a grinder at hand, you can use a hacksaw. It’s worth preparing several canvases for it;
To drill holes for fastening, a drill with the ability to adjust the rotation speed is used;
Screwdriver, screwdriver and wrench;
Hammer;
Marker or felt-tip pen for marking material. Pencils will not work as they leave an almost indistinguishable line;
Roulette;
The material for the frame is a square pipe (it is better to determine the dimensions yourself, depending on the dimensions of the future greenhouse);
Polycarbonate for walls and roof;
Hinges for securing the opening parts of the greenhouse.

Step-by-step instructions for making a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands

Stage 1: Preparing the base for the greenhouse

Before constructing a greenhouse, you need to determine the location, because it is directly dependent on the surrounding world. All factors affecting productivity are taken into account.

Installing a greenhouse in a dimly lit place leads to negative consequences such as: plants do not sprout and mold appears, after which the latter die.
Wind currents also need to be taken into account.
The landscape and its characteristics also have a great influence.
Often, greenhouses are installed in remote places, so as not to interfere, this is not true, because... is lost quick access to her. It is best to build greenhouses near the house towards the south, south-east or south-west, so that one end faces east and the other faces west, thus warming up the maximum area.
Plants cannot exist without light, and artificial lighting will not solve this problem. It needs to be built in an open area, preferably on a hill, so that nothing blocks the building from the sun (there are no buildings, bushes, or trees). The most acceptable angle of incidence of sunlight is 15 degrees. Positive points in this planning: greenhouse large number she is exposed to the sun at any time of the year, and the house protects her from the wind.
The greenhouse must be on level ground; if this is not the case, it must be leveled by adding new soil that is not loose and swampy; drainage is necessary. It is not advisable to locate in lowlands, because will low temperature and increased moisture, which will constantly accumulate.
To keep heat loss to a minimum, it is necessary to take into account constant gusts of wind. You can protect yourself from them by planting low-growing plants (for example, shrubs) 15-20 m from the greenhouse, or low fence(so that the shadow does not fall on the greenhouse) 7-10m. from the greenhouse.

It is extremely important to prepare the soil in a greenhouse, because the quality of the future harvest depends on it. First of all, it is not recommended to use phosphates, nitrates and other substances hazardous to health on the site. Next, it is important to select the optimal layer of land cover in the greenhouse.

To do this, you should be guided by the following principles:

If manure is used in a greenhouse, then a thick soil cover should not be made, since the fertilizer will not receive the required volume of air;
A thin layer of soil (from 9 to 12 centimeters) is necessary for crops that bear fruit only when high temperature. These are, for example, tomatoes or cucumbers;
If the crop requires a lower temperature for fruiting, then it is advisable to settle on a soil cover thickness of 17 cm;
Already grown crops that have developed roots are transplanted into an earth cover of more than 17 centimeters.

The soil in the greenhouse can also vary:

Dernova– most suitable for growing not fruit plants, and flowers. Not used for early or portable greenhouses because it is heavy;
Sheet– prepared from leaves fallen from trees. They are collected in a heap and left for a long time, after which the soil for the greenhouse will be ready, very loose, light and with a low content of useful substances;
Peat– should be used if the manure content in the greenhouse is very low. Peat significantly improves the quality of garden soil.
Compost is not recommended due to its heterogeneous structure. In addition, many substances may not completely decompose, which will lead to the formation of fungus and mold.

Stage 2: Drawing up a drawing

There are no design restrictions for a polycarbonate greenhouse, because it is plastic.

Basically, the type of greenhouse depends on the type of soil used.

Pipes are a reliable material for the frame; the greenhouse will last a long time.
It is necessary to calculate the number of additional sashes, taking into account windows and doors.
It is necessary to take into account the loads on the greenhouse frame.

Stage 3: Arrangement of the foundation

The foundation is assigned the following functions:

giving rigidity to the greenhouse frame;
protection from negative impact environment.

Since polycarbonate lasts at least 20 years, the most suitable foundation is made of brick.

It requires:

Create markings on the site of the future greenhouse;
Remove the outer cover of soil to a depth of 200-300 mm;
Pour a layer of fine gravel and level it;
Preparation of concrete with proportions:
Cement 1 part;
Sand 3 parts;
Gravel 5 parts.
Tips for laying bricks:
The brick must be laid level, using a building level;
The entire space between the bricks must be filled with mortar to prevent leakage warm air and the waterproofing was not damaged.

Stage 4: Making a frame for a greenhouse

Instructions will be provided for creating a greenhouse corresponding to the drawing(dimensions may differ from those shown in the picture):

Stage 5: Installation of polycarbonate sheets on the frame

Polycarbonate sheets are cut to the size of the segments of the resulting frame, after which screwing can begin. For fastening, self-tapping screws with press washers are used (size - 4.2x19 mm). All cuts on the polycarbonate should be sealed with tape to prevent moisture from getting inside.

We attach a pair of handles to each of the four doors, after which two more handles should be welded at the ends of the greenhouse (this is done to allow transportation of the structure).

There are several types of polycarbonate: “four”, “six”, “eight” and “ten”.

“Quartet” has the lowest price; it does not withstand the heavy load of wind and accumulation of snow, with which the greenhouse mainly comes into contact. But sales consultants recommend it more for a greenhouse than other options. The most flexible of all its representatives, it is perfect for arched greenhouses.
“six” is 2 mm thicker than the previous one, it is used experienced gardeners and gardeners. It is more reliable because its strength is enough to withstand medium-sized hail, while large ones cannot penetrate the 2nd layer. It lends itself well to bending and withstands it.
“eight” and “ten” are the strongest of all options and can withstand almost all natural disasters. Rarely used in greenhouse construction.

Of all the options, it is better to choose “six”. During production, it is applied to one side protective film from UV radiation, this must be taken into account during construction. The weight of the “six” per 1 m^2 is 1.3 kg. Polycarbonate is one of the strongest transparent materials, it is 10 times stronger than acrylic, does not change its characteristics at negative and positive temperatures. Its transparency is high, it transmits from 82% to 90% of natural light, scatters rays, which improves lighting.

How to determine quality polycarbonate?

Before purchasing you should study all the inscriptions, available on polycarbonate film, since some sellers sell lightweight material under the guise of regular one. The fact is that the price of “light” polycarbonate is significantly lower. It is intended primarily for warm countries, which Russia is not. Such polycarbonate does not tolerate sudden temperature changes very well, and also does not provide the proper rigidity of the greenhouse.

High-quality polycarbonate is easy to process, but poor polycarbonate often develops chips and cracks even with slight bending. In general, the store should have documentation for the material, which the buyer has the right to check. The weight will be indicated there and overall dimensions, UV protection and manufacturer's warranty.

Polycarbonate must be packed in polyethylene. On the side protected from sunlight there should be marking. If there are unevenness and swelling on the shipping film, then it is not recommended to consider purchasing such polycarbonate.

Classification of greenhouses

Greenhouses can be divided:

by type of frame materials: wood or metal;
covering material: polyethylene film, cellular polycarbonate or glass;
height location of the soil: above ground and buried.

Polycarbonate greenhouses have recently become increasingly popular, as they have many advantages:

Light weight;
Excellent sunlight transmission;
Do not release heat;
Easy to assemble;
Very durable.

Polycarbonate greenhouses can be divided into the following types:

"butterfly"– in sunny weather, maximum access of sunlight to the seedlings is ensured;
"snail"(or “bread box”);
Belgian type– features a straight pitched roof, with an opening top, which provides more sunlight to the plants.

Types of greenhouse frames

Metal frame

The frame for a metal greenhouse is made of many pipes of different diameters. Most often, profile pipes are used that can be bent to create various forms. Its manufacture is impossible without welding.

The roof of such a greenhouse can be of different types:

Broken;
Single-pitch;
Several stingrays.

The metal frame has the following advantages:

High practicality;
Resistant to damage;
Strength;
Durability.

It is best to use a metal frame if the greenhouse is planned to be left in one place for a long time. The metal should also be coated with a primer, because moisture will certainly lead to the formation of rust.

Wooden frame

A wooden frame is much easier to manufacture and does not require the involvement of specialists. Wooden frames for a greenhouse can last for several years, but if pre-treatment material. The disadvantage is that you can make a greenhouse with straight walls and a roof.

Advantages of a wooden greenhouse frame:

Completely environmentally friendly material;
Practical to use;
Very easy to build;
Sufficient strength.

Such a frame should also be treated and coated with a primer. But if you don’t plan to use the greenhouse for a long time, then you don’t have to do this.

Selecting material for creating a greenhouse frame

Tree the most popular material used in the construction of inexpensive greenhouses or greenhouses. But it has a very significant drawback: wood is not the most durable material that needs to be constantly repaired. If a greenhouse is built from polycarbonate, then wood is used extremely rarely to make the frame.

It is most preferable to do welded frame, consisting of square steel pipes (side dimensions 20 mm; metal thickness - 2 mm). With proper assembly and processing of the material, the service life can reach several decades.

Besides, metal is plate material, which makes it possible to create an arched greenhouse. Used for bending pipes special equipment, in addition, you need the skill to work with welding machine. By the way, today more companies sell ready-made frames for greenhouses and greenhouses.

Omega-shaped frames are gaining popularity.

Results

Making a greenhouse out of polycarbonate is quite simple, but it is worth considering what is described above so that the resulting structure will last for a very long time. In addition, do not neglect soil preparation. Thanks to these tips, the gardener’s harvest will forever be of the highest quality and most prolific.

Nowadays, greenhouses made of polycarbonate are very popular among farmers and ordinary hobbyists. country life. In this article we will take a step-by-step look at the process of building a polycarbonate greenhouse, and also consider all the pros and cons of greenhouses made using this technology.

Advantages of polycarbonate greenhouses compared to analogues

Before we start looking at construction technology, let’s note that a polycarbonate greenhouse has the following advantages over “classic” materials for greenhouse construction, for example:

Strength of the material. It has been proven that polycarbonate, compared to polyethylene or glass, has more high qualities strength and can withstand physical impacts better than analogues. For example, polycarbonate is not subject to excessive load on the roof in winter period. Typically, greenhouses made of glass are not immune to this, and in winter, due to excessive snow load, the glass may crack and become unusable.
Polycarbonate, unlike glass, is less susceptible to ultraviolet radiation, which allows plants grown in a polycarbonate greenhouse to be less exposed to ultraviolet rays.
It has high (compared to analogues) thermal insulation qualities due to the fact that polycarbonate is a two-layer material.
Resistant to temperature conditions. A polycarbonate greenhouse can withstand both Siberian frosts (up to - 50 degrees C) and hot Crimean days (up to + 60 degrees C).
The material is easy to drill, flexible (when heated), which makes it quite comfortable when working. In addition, the material is quite light and is divided into convenient sheets. Polycarbonate sheets usually have dimensions of 600*210 cm, which, with the right approach, makes it possible to cover the greenhouse with 3-4 sheets.
An important advantage is that, unlike a glass greenhouse, a polycarbonate greenhouse is able to diffuse sunlight, which reduces the chance of plants burning in high temperature conditions.
And the last advantage of polycarbonate is its cost. The average cost of a polycarbonate greenhouse is much cheaper than a glass greenhouse.

In this material we often mention glass greenhouses. We recommend that you read the article on how to do it. Step-by-step technology accompanied by pictures will help you understand the technology 100%.

Disadvantages of polycarbonate greenhouses

We have already noted the advantages of polycarbonate greenhouses, but this material also has its disadvantages:

Durability of polycarbonate. In conditions of excess sunlight, polycarbonate is susceptible to the so-called “burnout”, which can lead to its sudden wear, which in turn will lead to the fragility of the entire structure.
Quality of polycarbonate sheets. There is a risk of buying low-quality polycarbonate sheets. Typically a leaf weighs about 10 kg. Before purchasing, be sure to ask to weigh the sheet; if its weight is less than 10 kg, then refrain from purchasing because Most likely, this is low-quality material that can cause big problems in the future.
Difficulties with additional heating of the greenhouse. Polycarbonate, like any plastic, is a fairly fusible material, which makes installation in a greenhouse difficult stove heating. But craftsmen are able to solve this problem, if you are interested in reading about it, then look at the material on our website.

Deciding on the choice of foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

There are many types of foundations that can be used for greenhouses. It all depends on your preferences. If you are planning to thoroughly install a greenhouse in a certain place on your site for many years, then it is recommended to use a strip, brick or foundation on screw piles (new on the market).

But if the greenhouse on your site is still a seasonal or temporary phenomenon, then it is recommended to use a lightweight foundation made of timber, which can be erected in a few hours of work.

In addition to seasonality, an important condition for choosing the type of foundation for a greenhouse is the location groundwater on the site. If the groundwater level is low, then a strip or brick foundation, which is distinguished by its reliability, is quite suitable as a foundation. Otherwise (if the groundwater level is high), it will not work, because there are risks of deformation strip foundation, and with it the entire greenhouse structure.

If the groundwater level is high, use a universal type of foundation - screw piles or a timber foundation.

Which foundation option to choose is up to you in any case. Below we will provide a description of all types of foundations for a greenhouse, but the foundation design is only the first task that you will have to face during the greenhouse construction stage, so approach this issue carefully.

Brick foundation for a greenhouse

In addition to the light and short-lived foundation made of timber, the home craftsman is faced with the question: can he make a reliable and solid foundation? If you really think about this, then we present to your attention an excellent solution - a brick foundation with a cement strip base.

Such a foundation can last for decades, but here, as always, the period is influenced by the correctness of its construction. Let's look at the process of building a brick foundation in detail.

First of all, we make a trench with a depth of 40 to 60 cm. This will be quite enough. Then we pour a concrete base onto the sand cushion.
We lay a row of brickwork. The number of rows of brickwork depends only on your imagination; the higher you want the greenhouse, the more rows you can install.
Next, we lay a layer of roofing felt for waterproofing.
We fasten the bottom trim with anchor bolts. The harness can even be made from timber.

Below in the photo we will look at step-by-step instructions for building a brick foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Foundation for a greenhouse made of timber

A foundation made of timber is a simple solution for those who do not want to spend a lot of time constructing a foundation. To build this structure you will need:

Beam with a diameter of 50*50 mm.
Iron pegs for attaching the timber to the ground (provided you are not making it on screw piles or on a brick base) and drying oil.
Drying oil is required in order to prevent wood from premature rotting due to direct exposure to soil and weather conditions (dampness, rain, condensation).

Before we get to the technology of constructing a timber foundation, we note that a timber foundation can be fixed not only to the ground (which will cause it to quickly rot), but also to brick supports or screw piles, and then done - this is the most the best option.

Attaching the frame to a timber foundation (timber frame)

A polycarbonate greenhouse in most cases requires a reinforced frame. It is the frame that is the basis of the structure when constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse. The frame can be made from various materials, but the main materials are:

Wooden beam;
Aluminum guides;
Metal pipes;
Metal corner, etc.

Craftsmen mainly use wooden beams when constructing frame elements, but wood, as noted above, is quite susceptible to rotting and the second disadvantage is the difficulty of dismantling the structure for the winter. When using a wooden frame, this becomes a problematic task. Let's consider various options frame for a greenhouse on a timber foundation.

Attaching a wooden frame to a timber foundation

Attaching a wooden frame can be done in several ways. It all depends on your abilities and ability to use a saw and an ax. Well, if you are familiar with the basics of carpentry, then this work will not add difficulties to you. So, there are the following ways to connect ordinary racks of a timber frame:

Full cutting method.
Partial cutting method (half a beam).
Fastening with a metal corner.

Methods for attaching timber racks to a wooden foundation

Which of these methods to give preference to when constructing a frame is a matter of skill and skill. It is definitely easier to fasten the timber using a metal corner (it should be at least 2 mm wide). It will be more reliable to fix the beam using the complete cutting method, but provided that you are able to perform this type of work correctly.

When the racks are fixed to the lower fastenings, it does not matter in what way (full cutting, half-beam or using metal corners). To ensure that the racks do not become loose before the top trim (installation of the upper retaining beam), it is necessary to make special slopes for each rack. The mowing will help to fix the structure of the greenhouse frame that has not yet formed.

Wooden polycarbonate greenhouse on a timber foundation

So, in the previous chapter we looked at the process of creating a wooden foundation, and then attaching the wooden frame to the beam. It's time to take a step-by-step look at creating wooden greenhouse made of polycarbonate.

Sequence of work:

Install wooden foundation from timber. We make the foundation on brick pillars, on screw piles or on the ground. If we choose last option(foundation on the ground), then we dig a trench, lay a layer of sand, then lay a brick layer at least 2 bricks high or a sand-cement block, then a double layer of roofing felt and finally wooden beam strapping.
When the foundation is finished. We begin to attach the frame posts. The frame posts are fastened using the “vlapu” or “half-wood” technology; for reliability, they can be fixed with a metal corner. In addition to the corner, the racks are fixed with bevels.
The racks are ready. We make the upper frame from timber using the technology of the bottom frame.
The stage has come for the construction of the roof. The roof can be made or oval. You can see step-by-step instructions for constructing a wooden polycarbonate greenhouse in the photo below.

Attaching a metal frame to a beam

The iron frame is attached to the timber frame using anchor bolts, but it is better to think through the methods of fastening in advance. The photo below shows the process of attaching frame metal guides using anchor bolts to the timber frame.

Attaching an aluminum frame to a wooden beam foundation

As noted above, the frame can be made not only from metal and wood, but also from aluminum guides. The aluminum frame is quite practical material, which can be easily cut using a jigsaw for metal and screwed into it with self-tapping screws both for fixing it to the timber frame and for fixing the polycarbonate to the aluminum guides.

The main thing in this case is to drill all the holes in advance. This will prevent the structure from being deformed as a result of drilling holes in an awkward position.

We make a greenhouse frame from plastic (polypropylene) pipes

I would like to note that the above methods of constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse have many advantages, but one drawback is their difficulty in dismantling. Dismantling is usually necessary when we do not plan to leave the greenhouse for the winter or spring, but want to use the polycarbonate greenhouse only in the summer. Plastic pipes come to the rescue.

Polypropylene pipes are an excellent assistant for constructing a greenhouse of almost any shape. The pipes can be easily cut using a regular jigsaw, which allows you to install the greenhouse with virtually no project. In addition, unlike a wooden frame, in polypropylene pipes ah, condensation does not form, which does not lead to mold and, as a rule, to premature wear of the structure due to weather conditions.

The only question that will need to be decided in advance is whether the greenhouse frame will be collapsible or stationary. The collapsible frame is screwed together with screws, and the stationary frame is permanently welded.

The photo above shows an example of a simple greenhouse made of plastic pipes, but as you understand, with a slight increase in wind or under the influence of other weather conditions this design may be subject to deformation, and the fault is too light weight structures and lack of a foundation for the frame.

Base for a frame made of polymer pipes

As the basis for the frame, which will give rigidity to our structure, we will need the following materials:

Wooden beam 6 or 8 mm thick. for the construction of stiffeners. The long beam must correspond to the required dimensions of your greenhouse.
A timber to create the base of the foundation (if you haven't already made one).

Sequence of work:

We make a foundation from timber and secure it to the soil using metal stakes.
We assemble the greenhouse frame from plastic pipes. Fastening is carried out using special crosses designed for plastic pipes.
Attaching polycarbonate to plastic pipes carried out using self-tapping screws. If you cannot easily screw in the screws, then it is best to drill holes in the pipes and then screw in the screws.

The photo below shows step-by-step algorithm construction of a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes. Fittings and crosses are used for fastening.

Continuation of frame installation

The figure above shows an example of fastening a frame for polyethylene film, because There were practically no stiffening ribs, and a polypropylene pipe served as an alternative to the floor beam. But we hope the idea is clear that if polycarbonate is used as a covering, then the frame will need to be strengthened, making it more rigid.

For more detailed information about the construction of a polypropylene greenhouse, we suggest watching a video on this topic.

Video - do-it-yourself greenhouse made of PVC pipes (4 meters long)

Covering the greenhouse with polycarbonate

We have already reviewed material about how to make a foundation for a greenhouse and what types of foundations exist. Next, we covered all the issues that relate to the construction of a frame for a greenhouse and the formation of stiffeners. In turn, in this chapter, let's look at the issues of covering a greenhouse with polycarbonate.

For greenhouses, 6 and 8 mm polycarbonate is usually used. For greenhouses, material 4 mm wide is suitable, and if your task is to build a winter insulated greenhouse, then you can safely buy polycarbonate 10 mm wide.

Find out by reading the possible options being considered in a special publication on our portal.

Polycarbonate is a fairly flexible material, which allows it to be cut and installed without special effort. This material attracts its use due to its strength and resistance to atmospheric adversity.

When attaching polycarbonate, it is advisable not to do horizontal surface on the roof, because condensation formed on the roof should roll down vertical surface sheets on the ground.

To attach polycarbonate to a frame made of polypropylene pipes, craftsmen most often use a fastening scheme using plastic earrings or aluminum brackets. But it is worth noting that manufacturers do not recommend using this method of attaching polycarbonate.

Fastening polycarbonate using profiles

Manufacturers recommend fixing polycarbonate exclusively using profiles, because It is this method of fastening that allows you to hermetically cover the greenhouse with polycarbonate; in addition, it will ensure a quick fastening process and reliability of the structure. Fastening using a profile involves financial costs on the connecting profile, but the quality of the connections will be much higher.

For attaching self-tapping screws to metal frame It is imperative to drill holes in advance, and then fasten the polycarbonate with self-tapping screws. Please note that the choice of screws and sealing washers must be approached with special care. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws with thermal washers with a wide support area, because This is what will keep the carbonate intact and prevent the appearance of condensation.

Find out how to do it, with a description from planning to heating and lighting, in the corresponding publication on our portal.

Video - technology for connecting polycarbonate sheets to each other

Video - building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands

Video - assembling a polycarbonate greenhouse

In order for your greenhouse made of polycarbonate to serve you faithfully, and for the plants you grow to always have high yields, you must comply simple rules greenhouse care:

Every spring, wipe the walls of the greenhouse with a damp cloth and soapy water, but do not add alkali to the solution.
Mold, insects and other living creatures often form in the connectors and joints of polycarbonate sheets. During the construction phase, try to seal all joints with sealant. This also applies to the places where the lighting cable, wiring, chimney from the stove, etc. pass.
IN winter time every year, sweep away excess snow from the greenhouse frame. This will allow you to prevent polycarbonate from deformation.

As a conclusion

In this material, we got acquainted with this material, polycarbonate, and also looked at several options for building a greenhouse from this material. We have brought to your attention:

A wooden greenhouse made of polycarbonate, which is distinguished by its environmental friendliness, but its service life is 10-15 years.
A greenhouse made of metal and aluminum frames, the construction of which requires effort, but is very reliable.
Greenhouse made of polypropylene (PVC) pipes. This option for manufacturing a greenhouse will require a minimal amount of time (compared to analogues), but the reliability leaves much to be desired.
And finally, a greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes with a reinforced timber frame. This greenhouse option is perfect for year-round use in a summer cottage.

It’s up to you to choose which greenhouse option to choose. We are waiting for your comments on the material.

Polycarbonate greenhouses are widely represented in the retail chain - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do them themselves. Because a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands is much stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arch-shaped supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost at the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight posts emerge from the ground/from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this arrangement, the roof is rounded and the walls are straight. You can even work along walls without problems, standing up straight to your full height.

But the rounded greenhouse roof has several disadvantages. The first is that it is more difficult to make ventilation windows in it than in a straight line. The problem can be solved by making transoms in the walls rather than in the roof. The second disadvantage of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow falls off from it worse than from flat, sloping surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced trusses, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make a rounded part of the roof from two arches, welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the ridge can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve snow melting and protect the joint from leaks.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse: material for the frame

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes are suitable, metal corner and wooden beam. Galvanized profiles for drywall are also used.

Wood

The timber is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a lean-to or gable roof, since bending wood arches is difficult and time-consuming. The cross-section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and snow/wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50*50 mm. Such supports are placed in Middle Zone. For greater reliability, corner posts can be made from 100*100 mm timber.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy timber, but make it composite - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, withstand loads better, and are less subject to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option - larger size

If you are building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on a wooden frame, all boards/timbers must be treated/impregnated with antiseptics, and those intended for the street. The ends that are buried in the ground should be treated with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, the wood, firstly, will quickly deteriorate, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting the posts to the trim (bottom strip), use reinforced steel mounting angles for greater rigidity and reliability. They are available in hardware stores. To increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof, additional lintels are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made from profiled pipe. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s not difficult to do everything yourself - cooking a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with help it’s easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross section again depends on the size and natural conditions. Most often they are made from a rectangular pipe 20*40 mm. But options are also possible. Another important parameter for this material is wall thickness. It is desirable that the metal be 2-3 mm. This frame can withstand significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, so greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gables or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the metal thickness is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a frame made of profiles is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snowy winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not required. And the minus is not the greatest load-bearing capacity.

One of the frames. The jibs and stops are not superfluous.

The technology used is standard - as for constructing walls and partitions from plasterboard. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make double racks - by merging two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. To make the frame more rigid, make bevels, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is advisable to make the roof pitched rather than round, and strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed or not, there is only one answer - it is necessary. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation must “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most thorough option. If you plan to use a greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below freezing of the soil. For seasonal use, concrete-brick or simply timber is suitable.

Concrete-brick is one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of cost, complexity and duration. The work is carried out as follows:

A trench is dug according to the size of the greenhouse. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
Thick oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also advisable to cover the sides, but there the formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400) take 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of filler. Filler - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fraction. You should not use expanded clay - it absorbs moisture and can cause increased humidity.
The surface is leveled “under level”. You can smooth it out with a wooden block.
Mortgages - pins or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm - are installed in the foundation, in the corners and at a distance of 1 meter. Studs are installed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, and reinforcement if brick is to be laid. They stick out at least 15 cm above the foundation level.
The poured foundation is covered with film and left for at least a week (at temperatures below 17°C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, water it a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, it is better to cover it under the film with a coarse cloth (burlap).
If bottom trim there will be a beam on top concrete base waterproofing is rolled out. You can use two layers of roofing material, but now it quickly deteriorates, so it’s better to take “Gidroizol” or something similar. You can coat concrete bitumen mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
A row of strapping is laid:
Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. You can install small ones in a prepared trench and fill the space between them with solution. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled. Mortgages are secured in the seams.

Empty bottles can be used as building material. They are laid in rows and filled with concrete. It turns out to be a very economical and warm foundation. Its load-bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious construction.

Beam foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. The timber is used with a large cross-section - 100*100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry areas with low groundwater. In this case, one can hope that the foundation will survive for at least several years.

Pile-grill

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will last a long time. Complete, and we will provide a short list of works.

Next, you can attach the strapping, or you can add a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After this, we can say that the polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is almost ready. All that remains is to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, purchased or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work” depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. You need to take his choice responsibly - the amount turns out to be considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is best to use for building greenhouses? Depends on the operating mode of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you will need a cell phone. If this is an option exclusively for warm time year, corrugated (or monolithic) is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has superior thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the stated characteristics. It is only important that there is protection from ultraviolet radiation. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it does not press through, even if you make a significant effort, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Installation features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which at the same time protect the attachment point from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat and works well, but all the components cost a lot of money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to mount it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how to do it:

This is what directly concerns the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it still gets dirty and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate—blacken and flake. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it is common. So, when developing a model of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, provide half-meter walls made of another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

Greenhouses are becoming more and more popular among owners suburban areas. This has especially developed with the advent of a unique material - polycarbonate. And, of course, home craftsmen try to do everything themselves.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouses

This plastic is a new generation building material. The main properties that determine its popularity are:

High impact strength.
Increased strength characteristics.
Non-flammability.
High light transmittance.

Examples of using polycarbonate

Use of material for air passages Polycarbonate porch Canopy over the pool Cellular polycarbonate for greenhouse

This allows it to be used for the construction of transparent structures for various purposes in construction, industry, mechanical engineering and many other areas of the national economy.

What is

Polycarbonate is a complex linear polyester of carbonic acid and phenols. Among plastics, it has no equal in strength, transparency and low thermal conductivity. In addition, it can be easily bent, which allows you to create structures of complex configurations from polycarbonate.

Thanks to these properties, this material is widely used in the construction of greenhouses, greenhouses, winter gardens and greenhouses.

Release forms

On the market building materials There are two types of products made from this material: honeycomb and monolithic sheet.

In addition, a wide range of components and special fasteners are offered for the installation of buildings made of this plastic.

Standard sheet sizes:

Products made from cellular polycarbonate are produced in lengths of 6 and 12 meters with a width of 2.1. Sheet thicknesses are: 4, 6, 8, 10 and 16 millimeters.
Monolithic polycarbonate is produced in dimensions of 2.05 x 3.05 meters with thicknesses: 2, 3. 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 and 12 millimeters.

Advantages and disadvantages of polycarbonate greenhouses

Until recently, the main materials for the manufacture of greenhouses were window glass or plastic film. Nowadays polycarbonate is increasingly used despite its higher cost. Its decisive advantage is durability - with a successful choice of design and correct production A polycarbonate greenhouse will last at least 20 years.

About the main advantages of polycarbonate structures:

The transparent design allows almost all sunlight to pass through.
Due to the high strength of the covering material, greenhouses are resistant to impacts from hail or large branches and twigs in strong winds.
The low thermal conductivity of the material can significantly reduce heating costs when using the greenhouse year-round.
The ability of polycarbonate to block up to 95% of hard ultraviolet radiation, harmful to both people and plants.

A carefully made greenhouse of an original shape can become a real decoration of the exterior of the site.

The disadvantages include the following features:

High cost compared to traditional materials. This is an important circumstance, but if you take into account the long service life of the material, it is completely leveled out.
High degree of thermal linear expansion, which leads to the need to use special fasteners during installation.
The need to use a solid foundation when installing the frame - the construction of a foundation seems necessary.

Construction of greenhouses and greenhouses

To increase reliability, their design is as follows:

The supporting base is the foundation. The best option is strip concrete. The laying depth is at least 60 centimeters. When pouring, reinforcement is made with steel rods. Special attention is given to the horizontality of the bearing surface.

Types of frames for greenhouses - photo gallery

Dimensions of main components classical wooden frame greenhouses Option for making a frame from profile pipes Double arc support structure

As you gain experience, this simple device can become a starting opportunity for developing your own business.

Preparing for construction

As with any construction project, there is a certain procedure for implementation:

Determine the purpose of construction - will it be a simple greenhouse, winter garden or greenhouse.
Find out what sizes of polycarbonate are available on the local market and take this into account when designing.
Complete a preliminary design with drawings of parts. Calculate the need for materials.
Prepare what you need.

The main task when performing preparation is the accurate calculation of materials. The excess is a direct overspend. A shortage will result in additional hassle and shipping costs.

Frame materials

The main requirement for a frame when using polycarbonate is long-lasting life cycle. It must correspond to the durability of the base material.

For the manufacture of the supporting structure of the greenhouse, the following are used:

Wood in the form of timber measuring 150x50 mm. When making arched structures, a number of short parts are joined together arched design. The connection is made end-to-end using galvanized steel plates with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 5 or 6 millimeters. The plates are placed taking into account the subsequent refinement of the arc shape. Before starting assembly, you need to draw the profile of the frame arch on a flat plane. Each arch must be aligned along the contour, achieving complete compliance. To ensure the accuracy of angular cuts in the manufacture of parts, a miter box is used. When performing rounding with a jigsaw, keep in mind that the minimum permissible bending radius is 150 times the thickness of the polycarbonate sheet used. For example: for a sheet with a thickness of 6 mm it is 90 mm.
Bent profiles made of galvanized steel. Usually this is a channel. With bending radii such as those used for polycarbonate, it is easy to bend it manually. For this purpose, a slipway is made from supporting metal pegs. The distance between them is no more than 50 centimeters. The supporting arch must consist of two arches. The second part is also bent along the pegs with a bending radius 150 mm smaller than for the first. After the bend is completed, ribs are welded between these two parts. In this form, the arch acquires sufficient bearing capacity to withstand snow and wind loads. Attention! Galvanized welds must be thoroughly cleaned and covered with a protective layer of special paint, consisting of 95% zinc powder, the rest being binding additives.
Bent aluminum profiles. Such structures are made using the same technology as galvanized steel arches. The only difference is that welding is not used. The stiffeners are installed using connecting plates with screws. Aluminum structures do not require additional corrosion protection or additional maintenance during operation.
Profile steel pipes. Depending on the size of the structure, they are used in sizes from 20x20 to 60x60 millimeters. Arches are made according to the same principle as from other materials with mandatory adjustment on the slipway. All supporting structures made of ferrous metal must be treated with a primer, followed by the application of at least two layers of impact-resistant paint. Maintenance during operation consists of regular annual inspections of structures and touch-up of damaged areas.

Choice of base coating

For small greenhouses and greenhouses, cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 mm is usually used. It has sufficient heat-insulating characteristics.

The second criterion is the size of the structure in width - the larger the area of the roof and walls, the more loads fall on them. Therefore for large structures It is advisable to use thicker cellular polycarbonate. When constructing a greenhouse or winter garden, double covering is preferable.

If desired, make the structure transparent. In this version, it organically blends into the exterior of the site. The option looks good when only the wall on the side of the site allows light to pass through and the covering material in this case becomes a monolithic polycarbonate sheet. The honeycomb coating allows blurred images to pass through.

The color scheme of the structure depends only on the preferences of the owner.

Calculation of the required amount of material

Polycarbonate sheets are installed lengthwise on the arched structure. Their number depends on the length of the structure. It should be taken into account that the butt profiles from the set of additional elements also affect the length of the coating. However, the number of sheets at the time of installation has already been determined during the development of the preliminary design. If the calculation is correct, purchase polycarbonate in quantities strictly according to it.

When calculating the need for materials for load-bearing frame The following points are taken into account:

The standard length of lumber is 6 meters.
Metal profiles are produced in sizes of 4, 6, 9.5 meters. When designing the frame, additional details are taken into account: wind stops in the amount of at least two pieces, as well as longitudinal connections between the arches of the frame.
Fasteners for polycarbonate are produced purposefully, and you only need to purchase them.
Important! The tool for drilling holes must be 1.5 millimeters larger than the diameter of the fastener. This is due to the greater thermal expansion of polycarbonate, which determines the need for expansion gaps.
The fastener installation step is no more than 40 centimeters between installation points.

Tools

When making the frame and installing it you will need:

Jigsaw for cutting polycarbonate sheets and performing rounding on wooden arches. Polycarbonate can also be cut with a hacksaw for wood, a knife when fitting parts, or reinforced scissors (four-millimeter).
Welding machine - for assembling structures made of ferrous metals.
Angle grinder (grinder) with a set of tools for cutting metal.
Cordless electric drill - drilling holes during installation.
Screwdriver - installation of fasteners during installation.
Miter box - cutting timber from wood in the manufacture of load-bearing structures.
Marker - marking.
Measuring tools: tape measure, metal mechanic's meter.
Cement, sand, steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm for the foundation.
Concrete mixer or “boat” for preparing concrete.
Construction level - to control the foundation surface.

Basic tools for assembling a greenhouse - photo gallery

Grinder for cutting materials Best tool for cutting polycarbonate Cordless screwdriver Inverter welding machine

In addition to the above, you will also need other tools of general use, which, as a rule, are available on the farm.

Step-by-step construction of a greenhouse or greenhouse with your own hands

Given the long service life of polycarbonate greenhouses, they require a foundation. To do this you need:

A foundation made of screw piles. They are screwed into the ground, the outer ends are aligned horizontally along the cord. The Mauerlat is attached to them, which is the supporting base of the greenhouse. With this installation method, no excavation is required.

Before installing the power plate concrete surface cover with a moisture-protective layer of roofing material. Next:

Install the Mauerlat. It uses a wooden beam measuring 150x100 mm. It needs to be treated with antiseptics and waterproofed.
Install the frame arcs and secure.
The protective covering is laid from the front end to the rear, the joints can be made in different ways: using special elements from a set of additional parts or laying sheets overlapping with an overlap of at least 50 mm. In this case, fixation is made with a wire tie with a diameter of 5 mm to the Mauerlat. The sheets are fastened to the frame using self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 5 mm. Attention! Screws should not be installed at a distance of less than 40 mm from the edge of the sheet.
Installation of end walls.
Installation of vents and doors.
Device internal system watering and heating.

Additional finishing

If you have built a winter garden or greenhouse, the winning element will be the fireplace. Near it there will be a platform for receiving guests with comfortable chairs, sofa and coffee table.

Building a greenhouse with your own hands - video

The initial idea of building a simple greenhouse often finds its development in its further improvement and transformation into a winter garden. It is now possible not only to grow vegetables and flowers all year round, but also to contain unique subtropical plants. In the end, the created object becomes not only a place of effort, but also a favorite place to relax.

The protective layer on which the inscriptions are applied must be located on the outside of the greenhouse.
To obtain the most durable structure, be sure (!) to pay attention to the location of the polycarbonate “honeycombs” - they should go only vertically, in inclined structures - parallel to the slope.
When creating arches, keep in mind that polycarbonate sheets bend only in one direction - lengthwise, that is, along the line of the stiffeners.
The joints of the sheets should be at the center of the frame post; the sheets are connected only in this way.
This type of plastic is cut construction knife, jigsaw, grinder. You can also use a hacksaw or a circular saw.
To firmly connect the sheets to each other, special plastic profiles. Manufacturers do not recommend overlapping polycarbonate. In practice, when making a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is not always possible to cut and fit the sheets perfectly. Some craftsmen even manage to do without connecting profiles, placing polycarbonate overlapping. The most important thing is that the joint must be in the center of the rack, and not sag in the air. Moreover, even with ideal installation, snow pressure can force the sheet out of the profile. In the case of overlap, this does not happen.
It is not advisable to use a powerful drill for screwing in self-tapping screws - it will overtighten the fasteners and often slip off during operation. It is better to work with a regular screwdriver. Polycarbonate is drilled at low speeds with little effort. Next, turn off the tool, insert the screws and continue working.
The distance between the screws to be screwed in is 25-70 cm. It all depends on the type of frame and the expected snow and wind load.
When assembling polycarbonate structures, rivets are sometimes used instead of self-tapping screws. However, dismantling the greenhouse or replacing a damaged sheet in this case will be more difficult.
When the temperature changes, plastic can change size. When making butt joints between the sheets, be sure to leave small space a couple of millimeters in size - a technological gap. Otherwise, cracks will form at the junction. For the same reason, the size of the holes for fasteners is made a little larger. To prevent the plastic from cracking, do not tighten them all the way.
To compensate for expansion and protect against cold bridges, it is recommended to use special thermal washers for polycarbonate (screws are purchased separately). Allowed to use roofing screws EPDM, equipped with a gasket or standard for metal with a rubber thermal washer, in which the threads have a small pitch.