Suspended ceilings are the most common in the world. This is explained by both their diversity and ease of use: the space between the main and decorative ceiling used for invisible laying of any communications necessary for a comfortable life. Therefore, many are interested in how to do suspended ceiling with your own hands.
All suspended ceilings are structures consisting of suspensions, a supporting frame and cladding elements. Therefore, they are all installed using the same technology with minor differences.
We’ll talk about how to properly make a suspended ceiling in this article.
Types of suspended ceilings
The difference between some suspension systems and others is determined, first of all, by the shape of the cladding modules. These can be tiles, panels, slats, cassettes, gratings, which give the name to the entire structure. What the suspended ceilings are made from also matters.
Tiled suspended ceilings
The brightest representative is, facing tiles which are made from mineral fiber. This type of suspended ceiling decoration is most often used in public buildings, as it looks quite cold and formal.
But using the same principle, you can mount the ceiling with your own hands with other facing slabs, cutting them from plasterboard, MDF, glass, mirror or even foam.
Panel suspended ceilings
Most often you can find do-it-yourself ones - plastic or MDF panels. Sometimes wooden lining is used instead.
The principle of connecting all panels to each other is the same: one panel with its thinner edge is inserted into the groove of the other. After which a continuous surface is formed without cracks or visible joints.
Slatted suspended ceilings
Laths are long steel or aluminum panels. If you are deciding how to make it yourself, then this is the most affordable option for beginners. The frame for such a ceiling consists only of longitudinal support rails, and the slats are attached to them by snapping onto the protrusions of the profile. That is, without the use of any fastening hardware.
Slat ceiling
Cassette and cellular ceilings
The main elements of cassette ceilings are metal cassettes (modules) made of steel or aluminum. If you already know how to make a suspended ceiling from tiles with your own hands, then you can easily cope with the installation of cassette hanging systems.
In cellular (lattice) ceilings, the facing modules are lattices square shape made of aluminum profile.
For reference. Plasterboard ceilings are also considered suspended, since sheets of plasterboard are attached to a frame suspended from the ceiling. But their design does not end there: the mounted surface also requires decorative finishing. Therefore, in this article we will only talk about how suspended ceilings are made, which can be used immediately after installation.
If you have already decided which of these options suits you best than the others, it’s time to find out how to make a suspended ceiling with your own hands. Our improvised repair school will help you with this. A few lessons and you can confidently begin to act.
Installation of suspended ceilings
Let's divide the whole process into several main stages, and tell you about each of them in detail.
Stage 1 – design
At this stage you need to resolve the following issues:
- How far the suspended ceiling will drop relative to the base surface. It depends on what systems will be installed in the ceiling space. Most often these are air conditioning ducts and electrical wiring placed in corrugated sleeves.
- How the light sources will be located on the ceiling.
- In which direction will the cladding be attached: parallel to the walls or diagonally.
- If you want to create a pattern on the ceiling from facing slabs of different colors and textures, then modeling the ceiling is best done in a computer program to choose the most optimal option.
Before making suspended ceilings, sketch (or print) finished project to scale. The drawing will help you to determine the required quantities of all materials.
Stage 2 – marking
Regardless of what type of finishing you choose, first mark the level of the new ceiling around the perimeter of the room (along the walls). How are markings made?
- First, using a laser or hydraulic level at a convenient height for you, draw a horizontal line along all the walls of the room.
- Then, using a tape measure, take simple measurements from the drawn line to the ceiling to find the lowest point of the base surface.
- From the found point, set down the distance by which you decided to lower the ceiling, and put a mark on the wall.
- Using the mark as a guide, again use the level to draw a new horizontal line on the walls.
Important! If you did everything correctly, the resulting line should go along all the walls and close on the mark.
Stage 3 – installation of the frame
Installation begins with the installation of guide profiles, which are applied to the intended horizon line with the lower edge and attached to the walls with dowels, anchors or ordinary self-tapping screws. It depends on the material of the walls.
Attention! Installation of panel suspended ceilings does not require the installation of guides.
How are tags made? A tape measure is stretched along the guide profile, and vertical lines are made under it at a given distance from each other. The same should be repeated on the opposite wall.
The distance between the supporting profiles depends on the type of ceiling covering.
- If it is a panel ceiling, then the profiles are installed perpendicular to the direction of fastening the cladding in increments of 40-60 cm. The first profile is attached close to the wall.
Attention! To install lining or MDF panels, it is better to make the frame not from a metal profile, but from wooden slats.
- The supporting rails for the slatted ceiling are also located parallel to each other and perpendicular to the direction of the slats. The distance from the wall to the first tire is 40 cm, the distance between the tires is 120 cm.
- The distance between the guides for cassette, tiled and cellular ceilings is usually 60 cm - this is the size of standard facing elements. But the frame of such ceilings has a more complex structure, which, in addition to longitudinal ones, also includes transverse profiles. Therefore, markings should be made in all directions.
Now about how to make suspended ceilings so that they do not sag. To do this, the frame must be rigidly connected to the base ceiling using adjustable hangers. They are attached to the ceilings with anchors or dowels exactly along the line of the load-bearing profiles.
Then the profile is connected to the hangers through special holes, and the latter are adjusted in length so that the entire frame is maintained in a horizontal plane.
Advice. If the distance between the base and decorative surfaces is less than 10 cm, then direct hangers can be used.
If the ceiling design provides for the installation of transverse profiles, then they are attached to the longitudinal ones after their installation. Most modern suspension systems have special locking connections for extending the profile along the length and connecting it with transverse inserts. Therefore, there should be no problems with this.
Before you make your own suspended ceiling, or rather, before covering it, you need to once again make sure that the technological distances between the load-bearing profiles are maintained, and that the entire frame is located in the same plane.
Stage 4 - cladding the frame
This is the easiest step if the frame is mounted correctly.
- The slatted ceiling cladding panels simply snap onto the guides.
- The same thing happens with cassettes and grilles if a closed suspension system. Otherwise, the modules are simply inserted into a frame cell, like the tiles of a tiled ceiling.
- Some difficulty may arise with the question of how a suspended ceiling is made from panels, since each panel must be secured to the frame with hardware.
Conclusion
This article provides only general description how to make a false ceiling. You will find more detailed information on each type of ceiling in other materials on the site.
Good day. If you've never seen a kokedama, the Japanese moss ball, let me introduce you to beautiful garden For small space. Floating in the air, these plants do not take up surface space or even wall space.
Plus, you don't have to shell out money for cute pots and planters, as each plant is contained in its own moss container and hung from the ceiling using inexpensive twine.
If you are also convinced that you want this gardening solution that is essential for small houses, follow these steps to make your own hanging garden.
What you will need
The right plants for landing
Soil for Bonsai plants
Peat moss
Clay (such as bentonite clay, which is needed as a binder)
Leaf moss
Leg-split
Instructions.
1. Mix the bonsai soil, peat moss and clay into a ball, following the approximate ratio of 70% bonsai soil to 30% peat moss and clay mixture. Moisten the mixture with water so that all the elements bond with each other. Creating soil that won't disintegrate but isn't so dense that plant roots can't breathe is important to keep your kokedama thriving.
2. Using your thumbs, dig a small hole in the center of the soil ball. Shake excess soil from the plant's roots before tucking them into the hole and mold the soil around the roots.
3. Cover the ball with leaf moss, gently pressing sections of moss into the soil. Don't worry if it doesn't stay in place at this point, wrapping it with twine (step 4) will help.
4. Wrap the ball with twine, making sure all sides are covered, including the bottom, before tying the knot. To hang the kokedama, cut another long piece of twine and tie it to either side of the ball.
5. Hang the kokedama lightly shady place and ensure daily spraying with water. When the time comes to water the plant, to do this, immerse the moss ball in a bucket of water, place it so that the plant is at the top and let it absorb the water for 5-10 minutes.
The best plants for kokedama.
When choosing a plant for your hanging garden, you need to choose ones that do not require sun, because moss prefers shade and moisture. environment. It is best to use a plant with a small root system. Here are a few varieties that will grow in the shade.
Many varieties of fern, including the hair of Venus fern.
Staghorn fern
Pothos
Philodendron
Begonia
Succulent
spider plant
Upon entering any room, the first thing that somehow comes into view is the ceiling. From its design and appearance depends on the overall perception of the interior and the impression it makes. It is for this reason that designers try to pay attention to special attention ceiling. Thanks to the development of technologies in construction and the emergence of plasterboard structures, the possibilities for creating unique suspended ceilings have become almost unlimited. Today, the abundance and availability building materials allows you to create a suspended ceiling with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and know how to make a suspended ceiling. Despite the ease of installation, it is impossible to do it alone, so invite a couple more assistants.
Basic design of a suspended ceiling
The design of suspended ceilings is single-level or multi-level metal frame, attached to the ceiling and walls of the room, which is lined with sheets of plasterboard with built-in lighting fixtures.
To create the frame, galvanized steel is used metal profiles PP 60/27 and PPN 28/27 (imported analogue of CD and UD), parts of which are connected to each other with metal screws and special single-level (crabs) or two-level connectors. To attach the frame to the ceiling, straight or spring hangers are used, secured to the ceiling with anchors or dowels.
For covering the metal frame, gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL) with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 600 or 1200 mm and a length of 1500 - 2500 mm is used. Fixing the gypsum board to the metal frame is done with drywall screws. Recommendations for choosing gypsum boards of precisely these parameters are determined by the optimal combination of strength and weight of the suspended ceiling. Subject to technology total weight 1 m2 of construction will be about 13 kg.
Preparatory work: stages
As with any other construction work, before making a suspended ceiling, you will have to do some preparation. This will concern the surface of the old ceiling, creating a design project and hanging diagram, and calculating the necessary materials.
Let's prepare the floor surface
The ceiling surface must be carefully prepared: remove old finishes, repair
Although the suspended ceiling will hide the surface of the ceiling, draw a series preparatory work will have to. This will make it easier to install the ceiling and ensure reliable fastening of the entire structure. We begin work by removing the old finish, which we completely remove before puttingty or plaster, and if there were none, then until ceiling. Then we carefully check the surface for cracks, partially or completely peeled putty or plaster.
If everything is in order, then you can prime and putty the surface, and then proceed to further work. Otherwise, you will have to carry out more thorough repairs, perhaps even re-plaster the ceiling. Ideally, you should get a strong and flat surface to which the metal frame will be attached.
Design project and suspended ceiling diagram
The creation of a suspended ceiling begins with the development of its design project. Today, thanks to various architectural programs, creating such a project takes very little time. These programs allow you to examine and select the most attractive future suspended ceiling in volume and color.
Our video review about what types of suspended ceilings there are:
On top of everything else, computer programs will allow you to create and print a diagram of a suspended ceiling with all the necessary materials and their quantities. But those who are used to doing everything the old fashioned way - on paper - will have to work a little more. Creating a diagram and calculating materials manually is carried out as follows:
- the first thing needed for calculations is to measure the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, we have a room measuring 3x5 m. P=(3+5)*2=16 m. This will also be the length of the guide profile PPN 28/27. We transfer the size of the room to scale onto paper;
Example of a suspended ceiling diagram
Important! When measuring a room, you may find that opposite walls have different lengths. In this case, we take the largest value for calculations.
- the next step is to calculate frame profile. Support frame will be made from PP 60/27 profile, which is attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. For ease of installation, the length of one profile strip will be equal to the width of the room. We calculate the number of slats as follows: 3000/600 = 8.3 and round to the nearest whole number. To evenly distribute the planks, we place the first and last at a distance of 100 mm from the walls, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. This step was not chosen by chance. The fact is that gypsum board has standard width 600 mm and 1200 mm, and for reliable fastening it is necessary that the edges of the sheets lie on the profile. We mark the placement of the profile strips on the diagram;
- Now you need to calculate the number of hangers. All hangers are attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. All frame profile strips will require (3000/600)*8=40 hangers. We attach the first and last suspension at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. In the diagram, we mark the place of their attachment with crosses;
Important! Direct hangers can be used in two cases. The first is when the height of the suspended ceiling does not exceed 120 mm, the second is when the surface of the ceiling is absolutely flat. Otherwise, it is recommended to use spring hangers and constantly monitor the horizon using a level.
- To add rigidity to the suspended ceiling structure, you will need to additionally install lintels from the PP 60/27 profile. The jumpers themselves are installed between the main load-bearing planks with a pitch of 600 mm. To fix them, a special connector is used - a crab. The number of connectors is calculated as follows ((3000/600)-1)*8=32 pcs. Why exactly 32 pieces, and not 40. The fact is that the first line of jumpers is installed at a distance of 600 mm from the wall, the second 1200 mm, the third 1800, the fourth 2400. The fifth row is the wall itself. Now we mark on the diagram the place where the crabs are attached and, by connecting them with a solid line, we get the location for installing the jumpers.
Important! There are two types of connectors: single-level (crab) and two-level. The difference is in the method of fastening and in the height of the final structure. Thus, the crab allows you to place all the profile strips on the same level, and the total height of the profile with gypsum board will be 27 + 9.5 = 36.5 mm. The height of the profile and gypsum board with a two-level connector will be 27+27+9.5=63.5 mm. In addition, the profile consumption in the second case will be greater. But which method to choose is up to the master to decide.
All that remains is to calculate required quantity sheets of drywall. Everything here is extremely simple, knowing the area of the room is 5*3=15 m2, and the area of one sheet, for example 2.5*1.2=3 m2, we get 15/3=5 sheets.
Now we calculate the number of screws. This must be done based on the following data:
- for fastening to the ceiling and walls, dowels and 6x60 screws are used, the pitch for fastening to walls is 300 mm, for the ceiling 600 mm;
- to fix the profile and hangers, profile and crabs, you will need a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11. For the profile and hanger you need 2 screws, for the crab and profile 4 screws;
- MN 30 self-tapping screws are used to fix the gypsum boards. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm.
In the end, all that remains is to mark the location of the lighting fixtures on the diagram and calculate the required amount of wiring.
How to make a suspended ceiling yourself
About how to install a suspended ceiling with listing various options installation, you can write a small scientific report. In this article, we will look at the simplest installation option, which you can do on your own, without having the professional skills of a builder.
Working with a marker and tape measure
Installation of suspended ceilings begins with marking the surface of the ceiling. If the surface of the ceiling is flat, take a tape measure and a marker. We measure the height of the future suspended ceiling without taking into account the sheet of drywall. We put 3 - 4 marks along the entire length of each wall, then take the painting thread and connect the marks in one line. This line will be a guideline for the PPN 28/27 guide profile.
Now we apply markings on the ceiling for the main profile PP 60/27 and suspensions. We retreat the required distance from the walls, put a few marks and beat off a line using paint thread. We repeat the procedure for all other planks of the supporting profile in increments of 600 mm. On the marked lines for the frame profile we mark places for direct hangers, as shown in the diagram.
Ceiling frame installation
We fix the profiles to the walls and ceiling, forming a frame for plasterboard sheets
Having finished with the main markings, we proceed to the installation of profiles. We start with a guide profile PPN 28/27 along the perimeter of the room. We take a hammer drill or a drill in our hands and, along the previously drawn line, drill holes for 6x60 dowels. We drill the same holes on the profile. For reliable fastening, drill the first and last holes 100 mm from the wall, all subsequent holes 300 mm from the wall. We drive dowels into the resulting holes and screw the PPN profile into place.
Important! During the installation of a suspended ceiling, you will have to screw in a lot of various self-tapping screws, so use a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate all work.
The next step is to fix the hangers. To do this, take the suspension and apply it to the mark on the ceiling. It should be located strictly in the middle of the line and at right angles to it. We mark a place for the dowel and drill a hole. Then we drive the dowel inside and screw the hanger on. We repeat the entire procedure for 40 suspensions.
Important! The hanger can be secured with 1 or 2 dowels, it depends on how reliable design want to receive.
Now we fix the main frame. To do this, we bend the antennae of the suspensions down so that the profile fits freely between them. We set the profile inside and on required height We fix it on the sides with metal screws.
Example: what the frame of a multi-level suspended ceiling might look like
Having secured all the profile strips, take a tape measure and mark the places where the crabs are attached. Then we place them on top of the profile with the tendrils down and press down firmly to snap them inside. Having done this, we proceed to cutting jumpers from the PP 60/27 profile. To do this, we will use a grinder or metal scissors and cut the entire profile into pieces. We take the size on the basis that the jumper will fit tightly between the main planks. Having cut the required amount, we proceed to installation. Place the jumper underneath the crab and press them tightly together so that the crab snaps inside. Having installed all the jumpers in this way, we align them in a straight line according to the drawn diagram. Then we fix all the crabs and profiles together with 4 screws.
Frame installation is complete. You can install heat and sound insulation, as well as lay wiring for lighting.
Rules for covering the surface of gypsum boards
We install gypsum plasterboard sheets to the ceiling frame: plasterboard slabs are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws
We apply sheets of drywall to the prepared frame and screw it to the profile with self-tapping screws. We make sure that the edges of the plasterboard lie on the profile. For reliability, we fasten all the sheets apart. To do this you will have to trim some, but this is done very easily. First, cardboard is cut under the ruler on one side, the plaster is carefully broken, and then the cardboard is cut through on the other side.
After installation, you first need to treat the butt seams and the places where the screws are installed with putty, then cover the entire ceiling with putty mixture
Video guide: installation of Knauf ceiling
The installation of the suspended ceiling with your own hands is completed, all that remains is finishing. To do this, carefully putty and level all the joints and places where screws are screwed in. We wait until the putty is completely dry, after which we apply the finishing layer. finishing materials. Finally, we install the lighting fixtures. All work on installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple for beginners in the construction business. The main thing is to follow the work technology.
A hanging gutter garden is a great way to take advantage of the vertical space around your home to grow flowers, edibles and create a stylish space divider or garden screen without spending too much money.
Materials
1 - 8" white PVC rain gutter cut into 3 sections 32"
6 - white PVC plugs for gutters
2 - 1/8" steel cables cut to desired length
6 - Clamps (see image below)
6 - 1/8" steel rods
2 - Galvanized hooks
Tools
Cordless drill/driver
Hand saw or wire cutters
Right Angle Ruler
Roulette
Permanent marker
1. Locate the center of your gutters and mark (otherwise your gutter won't hang straight).
2. Mark and drill holes for the steel cable rods. Find a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the cable to minimize the space for maneuver.
3. Drill holes several sizes larger, make sure you get good drainage(Plant roots don't like to sit in water for long periods of time).
4. Find a place that gets at least 4 hours of sun. I placed my gutters on a gazebo I built a couple of years ago.
5. Drill pilot holes (the hole is slightly smaller in diameter than the auger diameter) to make screwing in the hooks easier. Make sure the holes are evenly spaced so the cable hangs straight down.
6. Pull the gutters through the holes and secure them with cross clamps at the desired height. You'll notice that I placed mesh (commonly used for drywall joints) left over from another project over the drainage holes to keep the soil from seeping through. However, I think the holes are small enough that this step is optional. I did it out of habit.
7. Secure the gutter with cross clamps and semi-circular steel rods.
Now everything is ready to be filled in organic soil and planting small rooted plants of your choice.
If you liked this material, then we offer you a selection of the most the best materials our site according to our readers. You can find a selection - TOP about existing eco-villages, family estates, their history of creation and everything about eco-houses where it is most convenient for youWhen constructing a roof, the most important role is played by right choice roofing structure.
During operation, this structure will be subject to various temporary and permanent loads. In order for the roof to be reliable and durable, it is necessary to correctly calculate and install the truss structure.
The basis of the roof structure is made up of rafters, which can be hanging or layered. Hanging rafters are used in cases where the building does not have internal load-bearing walls. In this design, the entire load goes to the external load-bearing walls.
Rafters are an integral part of the roof structure. They act as a roof frame onto which the sheathing and roofing material are attached.
There are two types of rafters: hanging and layered. Their difference lies in the conditions of application. If the building does not have internal load-bearing walls, then hanging rafters are used. In this case, the rafters rest on the sides of the building. Span width when using hanging rafter system should be from 6 to 10 meters.
It should be noted that hanging rafters do not create horizontal loads, but only work in compression and bending. The entire load in this case is transferred to the walls. To reduce the bursting force on the walls, stretching is used.
This element connects the rafter legs and does not allow them to move apart in different directions. Stretch marks can be composite or solid. in the manufacture of composite braces can be performed in different ways: overlapping, straight or oblique teeth, etc.
Rafter legs are made from logs, timber or regular edged boards. Before installation wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants that protect against fungus and mold.
What to consider when calculating hanging rafters
Before you start building a roof with hanging rafters, you need to correctly calculate the entire structure. Its strength and safety will depend on this. It should be noted that the rafter system is very responsible and complex design. Therefore, it is advisable to have it designed by a professional architect. When performing the calculation, the following data is used:
- Building dimensions;
- The material from which the walls of the building are made;
- The presence of supporting columns, load-bearing internal walls;
- The presence of an attic floor;
- Type of roof being erected (gable, single-pitch, hip, half-hip, hip, etc.). Here it is necessary to determine what type of rafters will be used (hanging or layered).
- Rafter section;
- Shape of trusses.
When designing a hanging type rafter system, the following should be taken into account:
- Climate in the region (wind and snow loads, total quantity precipitation);
- Roof slope angle;
- Type of roofing system;
- Roofing material (corrugated sheeting, metal tiles, etc.).
Elements of hanging rafters
The hanging structure is more complex than the layered one. Difficulties arise not only in its manufacture, but also during installation. The simplest one has the shape of a triangle, which consists of two rafter legs resting on the puffs and on each other.
No thrust is transferred to the walls of the building, since it is neutralized by tension. Hanging rafters exert only vertical force on the walls of the building. Due to this, the nodes supporting the walls are arranged very simply.
Stretch bars are made from metal strips or wooden beams. They are mounted at any point in the direction of the ridge. Their exact location depends on the type of roofing structure chosen. For example, during construction mansard roof guy wires are attached at the base of the rafter system.
In this case, they will act as floor beams. In such a system it is not at all necessary to install a Mauerlat. You can use it instead edged board, laid on a waterproofing base. This board is used to level roof trusses horizontally.
It is important to note that the design of a suspended rafter roof is largely dependent on the absence or presence of an attic space and the length of the span in the building.
Types of hanging rafter structures
Triangular three-hinged arch
The hanging rafters and the tie form a closed triangle. In this case, the rafter legs work for bending, and the tightening works for tension. The ridge run must have a height of at least 1/6 of the length of the arched span. A similar design is used when, with the tightening acting as an attic floor.
Triangular three-hinged arches with headstock
If the building span exceeds 6 meters, then using solid timber becomes quite difficult. In addition, the tightening begins to sag under its own weight. To prevent the tie from bending, it is hung from the ridge. A pendant made of wood is called a headstock, and a pendant made of iron is called a cord.
To obtain the required tightening length, two beams are spliced. They are secured to the suspension clamp using a straight or oblique frame and bolts.
Triangular three-hinged rafter arches with raised drawstring
Hanging rafters of this type are used if it is necessary to convert an attic space into an attic. In such a system, the tightening is fixed at the top. The higher the tightening is located, the stronger the tensile force exerted on it. In this design, the tie is the beam of the attic ceiling. Installing a hanger prevents the tie from sagging.
Triangular three-hinged arches with transom
In this system, a hinged fixed support is used as a support unit. The rafters are made with a cut into the mauerlat. Due to this, the arch becomes very stable. In this scheme, the raised tightening is called a crossbar and works for compression.
Triangular three-hinged arches with suspension and struts
As the length of the rafter legs increases, their deflection also increases. To prevent this from happening, they are supported by struts. At the same time bottom part the struts rest against the suspension. The result is a fairly robust system with circular load transfer.
Installation of hanging rafters
The hanging rafter system is made of timber with a cross-section of 50×200 mm. It is important to note that during construction you need to focus only on the roof design made by a specialist.
- Along the perimeter of the external load-bearing walls the mauerlat is fixed.
- Two bars are lifted up, the cross-section of which corresponds to the design. The rafter legs are cut to size.
- To make it necessary to make identical notches in them.
- The upper parts of the rafters must be butt-joined. An overlap joint should not be used as it is less reliable.
- The first pair of rafter legs is adjusted most carefully. When the joints and assemblies are perfectly matched, both parts are lowered down and used as templates for the rafter legs. The right and left rafters must be done separately. This measure will greatly simplify the construction of the rafter system.
- The rafter legs are lifted up in pairs, after which they are secured to the Mauerlat and to each other. The first pair must be attached at one end, and the second at the other. Then you need to pull the cord between them. It will act as a level for the remaining elements.
- The remaining rafter pairs are being installed. Next, they need to be tied at the top. In this case, the distance between adjacent rafter pairs should be exactly the same as on the Mauerlat.
- Installation of puffs. They will connect the lower parts of the rafter legs to each other. Installation must be done end-to-end or overlapped.
- If the spans of the building are too large, then struts and headstocks are installed.
Conclusions
- The structure will be strong and reliable if the calculation and installation of the rafter system were carried out correctly;
- In such systems, the rafters work in bending and compression, and there is no horizontal load;
- Hanging rafters are appropriate for buildings without internal supporting walls;
- Tightening reduces the bursting force acting on the walls;
- The design with hanging rafters is used for buildings whose span width is 6-10 meters.