In most cases, the woodworker will apply a clear finish directly to the sanded surface of the piece to bleach the discolored wood before covering it with polish, varnish, etc. Conversely, you may want to improve the color of wood with an unusually dull texture with a light stain treatment, or match the colors of two not-so-matching pieces from the same wood species.
Wood bleaching
After bleaching the wood with a compound ready-made bleach, it is necessary to rinse it with a weak solution of acetic acid: one teaspoon of white vinegar per about half a liter of water. Not all varieties bleach successfully. For example, chestnut or rosewood react poorly to bleaching, while oak and birch respond well. First, you need to test a sample of wood before processing the product. Wood bleach is a strong chemical, so follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. When handling chemicals, work in a well-ventilated area using safety glasses, gloves and an apron.
Apply Bleach No. 1 in an even layer to the wood using a brush or swab. After 5-10 minutes, apply substance No. 2 with another clean brush. After obtaining the desired shade, neutralize the bleach with a solution of acetic acid. Let the product dry for 3 days, then sand off any raised fibers using a gauze mask.
Stains
- Sycamore treated with full color stain,
- Beech treated with a water-based walnut stain,
- Beech treated with an alcohol-based stain to resemble light oak,
- Beech treated with an oil-based mahogany stain.
Pore filling
Before a glossy finish, it is always necessary to fill the surface pores of woods with a coarse-grained - porous - structure such as mahogany, walnut, oak and ash. If this is not done, the finish will turn out pitted and pockmarked.
The best way is the application of various varnishes to the surface in several layers. In this case, there is no need to select the color of the filler. However, this is a labor-intensive process, so most woodworkers prefer to use ready-made filler, in the form of a paste of various colors to match the color of different types of wood. The color should be a little darker than that of the selected wood, since the filler becomes lighter as it dries, and you can always adjust the color by adding a little compatible stain to the paste.
Rub the filler in in a circular motion, removing excess with a rough cloth. Let it harden overnight and then sand very lightly with fine sandpaper in the direction of the grain.
Filling pores after staining
If you fill the pores after staining or staining, then you can only sand very lightly to preserve the color, and if etching occurs after filling the pores, then uneven absorption can lead to stains. It is probably safest to first coat the etched surface with sanding sealant and then treat with foam filler. In this case, the sealant coating will protect the color while sanding the filler.
Using Sanding Sealant
Shellac based sanding sealer provides an excellent protective coating for stains while preventing contamination of the finish. Apply the sealant with a brush and, after drying, sand the surface with fine sandpaper. Apply the sealer again and sand the piece with 0000 grade extra fine wire wool. Some finishes do not adhere well to sanding sealant, so check the appropriate instructions first.
Staining natural wood
Before staining, the wood must be absolutely clean, degreased and smoothly sanded along the grain. After using a high-power electric orbital sander, sand the surface by hand to remove any fine cross-grain scratches left on the wood. If the material is not wetted before sanding, the water-based stain will lift up the fibers as it dries, resulting in a rough surface.
Types of stain
Do-it-yourself firms and hardware stores offer a huge selection of ready-made stains in a variety of colors, but powdered stains, which are prepared for use by the woodworker themselves by dissolving in water, are usually only sold at specialist firms. Ready-made stains are very convenient, but many professionals take advantage of the advantages of independently selecting a color to their own taste.
Water based stain
Such compositions have good impregnation properties and fluidity, and since they dry relatively slowly, uniformity of tone is easy to achieve. By using damp cloth You can change the shade of water-based stain after treating the wood with it. After drying, any wood finishing material can be applied over this stain. Ready-made stains are available for sale in liquid form and in the form of aniline powder, soluble in water. To prepare the solution, dilute the powder in water in the proportion of 30 grams of dry stain per 1.25 liters warm water. Allow the solution to cool before use. Acrylic-based stains lift the fiber less than water-based stains and are more resistant to fading. When staining dense hard grades, dilute the acrylic stain by about 10%.
Alcohol based stains
Alcohol stains are not very popular among amateur woodworkers. Prepared with denatured alcohol (ethyl alcohol denatured with methyl alcohol), they dry relatively quickly, and sufficient skill in their application is required to avoid the appearance of different tones from overlapping layers and sharp color boundaries after drying.
For this reason, alcohol stains are often applied to wood by spraying. This type of stain can be purchased either in liquid form or in powder form to be mixed with alcohol in the same proportions as for water stains. A small addition of shellac (varnish) fixes the color. Alcohol stain may bleed through a subsequent coat of polish or brushed cellulose varnish, but spray finishes are less susceptible to this.
Oil based stain
Oil-based stains dry relatively quickly, but usually require quite a bit of udder to get a good result. Such stains (they use white spirit, naphtha, kerosene, naphtha as a solvent) do not lift fibers. Oil stains can be dissolved in white spirit contained in polyurethane varnish and wax mastic. Therefore, before using such varnish and mastic, the surface stained with them should be treated with shellac grinding sealant. Oil-based stains are sold only in finished form.
Applying stain
You can apply stain to the surface of the product using a high-quality painting brush or pad. Apply the stain liberally and evenly along the grain, working the wet edges as quickly as possible. Wipe the damp surface with a soft, dry cloth to ensure uniform color and remove excess stain. You can also apply stain with a clean rag, especially on vertical surfaces, to make it easier to control drips.
The use of rags is also the only practically acceptable way to stain round elements and highly absorbent softwood. Wearing protective gloves, saturate the rag with stain and wring it out so that no drip marks form on the surface. Drips and drips may bleed through layers of finish if you can't make them invisible before drying.
Test staining
Each type of wood absorbs stain differently, changing its color as it dries. The type of finish applied to the stain also affects the color and shade.
Before staining the product, test stain a sample of the same wood. Cover the prototype with a layer of stain and let it dry. Then apply the second elephant, leaving part of the first coating untouched to compare the results. Two coats are usually sufficient. but for experimental purposes, do three or even four layers and let them dry thoroughly. Apply a stripe of clear to half of each layer. finishing material to see the result in each option.
Ammonia vapor staining
Ammonia fumes chemically color wood containing tannic acid. Oak - the most popular material for ammonia staining - changes color from golden to medium and dark shades brown, depending on the duration of treatment. Walnut, mahogany and chestnut can also be dyed using an ammonia solution.
Pharmacies will sell a 26 percent ammonia solution. As an alternative, you can use regular homemade ammonia, but the process will be slower. Ammonia is an eye irritant, so make an evaporation chamber outdoors or in a well-ventilated/ventilated area and wear safety glasses and a mask or respirator when handling this substance.
From wooden scraps, make a frame according to the size of the product and cover it with black plastic film as an airtight tent. Cover all joints and joints with adhesive tape. Do not use transparent film as daylight may change the shade.
Place several wide small containers with ammonia solution inside the cabinet along with the product. There should be no metal fittings or exposed screws as these will stain the wood. To get the average brown, leave the camera sealed for 24 hours. If a lighter shade is required, check the color of the product from time to time. Even after removing the product from the cabinet, the reaction continues for some time. and the wood will darken a little more.
Stains or stains are tinting compounds that are used to finish wood to give it a more expressive shade. Absorbing into the wood structure, the liquid paints the surface layer, preserving the natural texture and surface relief.
Processing with stain allows you to simply and without extra costs render featureless woods more noble appearance. The opportunity to experiment with shades opens up ample opportunities when finishing projects.
The composition of the stains does not in any way affect the basic characteristics of the material. A film does not form on the surface, rot resistance, hardness and strength of the wood remain unchanged (in the absence of special components). The technique of applying paint is quite easy to master.
The basis for stains can be water, alcohol, oil and other substances. Each type of finishing composition has its own characteristics, knowing which it is easy to choose the optimal type of finishing for a specific project.
Water stain and its specifics
Water-based stain is available as a ready-to-use liquid and as a powder that can be diluted to the desired concentration. Water-based stains have good adhesion, naturally highlight the grain of the wood and come in a wide range of shades, from light tones to deep dark reds. The absence of toxic odors makes such compositions indispensable when performing interior work.
When processing resinous wood, water stain may become stained due to uneven absorption into the structure of the material. In this case, it is recommended to subject the surface of the product to a de-resining procedure.
Another disadvantage when working with water stains is the problem of raised lint. To eliminate this defect, the prepared surface is moistened with water and allowed to dry. Then the product is sanded with fine-grained paper and opened with a finishing compound.
After treating wood with water stain, it takes 12-14 hours for it to dry completely.
In what cases are alcohol stains appropriate?
Alcohol stains are a category of finishing compounds based on aniline dyes diluted in alcohol. Like water stains, this product is available in powder and liquid form. Distinctive feature finishing is the accelerated penetration of coloring pigments into the wood structure and rapid drying.
The optimal method for applying alcohol stain is to use a spray gun. Using a brush, roller and tampons when working with such compositions is ineffective due to rapid drying. The use of manual methods often results in streaks, uneven tone, spots and other defects.
Such compositions are optimal for finishing large surfaces. Similar in characteristics to them are nitro stains - solvent-based stains.
Alcohol-based stain dries in 20-30 minutes.
Oil stains and their features
The finishing composition consists of dyes dissolved in oil, usually linseed. The stain is easily and evenly applied to the wood, and, as manual methods, and with a spray gun. It does not form surface films, emphasizes the wood texture and provides air exchange.
A distinctive feature of the coloring pigments of such compositions is their resistance to UV radiation, due to which the painted surfaces do not fade in the sun, maintaining color saturation for years. White spirit is used to dilute oil formulations.
How long such a stain dries depends on the degree of its concentration and a number of other factors. On average, this takes from 2 to 4 hours.
Wax and acrylic compositions
In all basic characteristics, such stains are similar to their oil counterparts. A distinctive feature of wax and acrylic sealants is their moisture-proof properties. The finish protects the wood surface well from water, but is vulnerable to mechanical damage.
Wax and acrylic compositions are easy to apply by hand, maintain the same tone, and do not leave streaks. They do not raise the pile and highlight the natural texture of the wood well. This type of finishing is actively used in furniture restoration. Beads of this type are offered in a wide range of colors.
How long such a stain dries also depends on a set of factors. On average, the process of complete drying of wax and acrylic stains takes 4-5 hours.
What tools are used to apply stain?
Staining wood at home can be done with a brush, a foam rubber or fabric swab, a paint roller, or a spray gun. The choice of technology is determined primarily by the type of finishing composition.
Optimal ratio of materials and tools used:
- alcohol and nitro stains – spray gun;
- water stains - swabs, roller, brushes with synthetic bristles;
- oil and acrylic stains - wide brushes with natural bristles, lint-free swabs.
How to stain wood: methods of applying finishing composition
There are two generally accepted methods for treating wood with stain:
- Applying the composition in excess and then removing the excess with a swab.
The technique is relevant primarily for water compositions. It allows you to even out color transitions, eliminate smudges and achieve lighter tones. The stain is applied in a circular (tampon) or longitudinal (roller, brush) motion, followed by wiping along the fibers. After the first layer has dried, the second is applied. The procedure is repeated until the desired color saturation is achieved.
- Applying the composition in excess without subsequently wiping off the excess.
This technique is more appropriate when using wax, oil and acrylic stains when the task is to achieve deep shades of wood. Partial wiping of excess is allowed after the main part of the composition is absorbed into the structure of the wood. This allows you to even out the tone and get rid of minor defects that may occur when applying the composition.
- to enhance adhesion, the stain can be slightly heated, this will improve the speed and depth of penetration of the composition into the wood structure;
- It is not recommended to heavily soak a brush, swab or roller in the finishing composition. Controlled removal of stain minimizes the risk of smudges and blots.
- The ends of the board are treated with stain more intensively than the main surface, because they absorb the composition more actively.
How to prepare the surface for finishing?
Speaking about the advantages of stain, we should not forget that it emphasizes not only the expressiveness of the wood texture, but also all the defects present on its surface. Therefore, special attention is paid to proper preparation of the product.
- The wooden surface is sanded with medium and fine-grained paper. The old coating, if any, is completely removed.
- The surface, cleaned and leveled by grinding, is degreased with a sponge soaked in white spirit.
- Coniferous species are subjected to a de-tarring procedure; for this purpose they are treated with a special composition.
- When working with water stains on a wooden surface, first remove the raised pile (see point 2).
- A color test is made on the prepared surface. A test stain will allow you to understand how the composition interacts with a specific type of wood and how many layers will need to be applied to achieve the desired color.
Following this algorithm will help you achieve a professional result when staining wood at home.
How to solve the problem of spotting?
An uneven tone of the finish, when the stain is stronger in some places and weaker in others, is a common problem that is associated with the characteristics of certain types of wood. Spotting can occur when processing resinous wood, as well as wood with uneven density or plywood. In the first case, it is recommended to deresin the surface; in the second, pre-treat the wood with special conditioners that will close the pores and ensure uniform absorption of the stain.
Painting wooden products with stain and varnish
To enhance the wear resistance and attractiveness of the surface of wooden products painted with stain, they are additionally opened with varnish. At this stage, many are faced with a problem when, when applying varnish, the stain begins to smear, which ultimately irreparably spoils all the work done.
At the stage finishing important to remember:
- water-based stains must be combined with NON-aqueous varnishes;
- alcohol stains – with non-alcohol paints and varnishes.
Finishing any wooden structures is a responsible process and requires careful work. Any wooden product requires staining. Staining is coloring. So, let's talk about how to stain wood yourself to get excellent results.
Tree type
Before you start working directly, you must understand what kind of wood needs to be stained. Experts divide wood into soft and hard. So, soft types include trees such as fir, spruce or pine, and hard types include walnut, oak, ash, and so on. If you don't know what kind of wood is in front of you, use next advice. Inspect the product. granular structure, uneven surface, the pattern with spots indicates that this is soft wood. But the uniformity of the pattern and structure, the absence of pronounced spots indicate that this is a tree durum. It should be noted that very hard species, for example, oak, need to be stained in several layers. But the result will justify the time and money spent on the work.
Peculiarities
You should remember the characteristics of wood types before staining. Soft wood will not stain evenly if you simply apply stain. The secret is to apply the primer before you stain. It is this trick that will make the wood stain even. If you want to emphasize the natural grain of the wood, you don’t have to use a primer. By the way, the primer should be mixed with a special composition, which is necessary for a good result on wood. Hardwood less capricious, and therefore can be starved without preliminary preparation. Staining will make the product more elegant and attractive.
Preparation
Before you start staining, you need to prepare the product. First of all, clean the wood. It should be free of dust, grease, dirt and the like. Only clean wood will be painted correctly and accurately.
The next step is to use your imagination. You need to choose sandpaper that will be useful in the process. If you want to end up with dark wood, use coarse sandpaper - it will give a rough sanding, which means more stain will be absorbed into the wood. Accordingly, if your goal is a light result, stock up on fine-grained sandpaper - with its help you can achieve significantly less stain absorption and a lighter result. By the way, professionals give advice: if you plan to stain a flat surface, but with some abrasions or other flaws, first sand it with coarse-grain sandpaper, and then use fine-grained paper. In this way, you can smooth the surface of the product without compromising the color that you would like to see in the end. It would be a good idea to experiment on a scrap piece of wood before starting the main work.
Immediately after sanding, take a slightly damp cloth and clean the wooden product from dust.
Staining process
After all the long preparation, you can proceed directly to staining. It is recommended to wear rubber gloves before starting work.
Stain, as a coating for wooden surfaces, not only preserves the wood, but also enhances its decorative properties. With the help of stain, inexpensive wood species can be transformed into valuable exotic wood. Let's talk about how to properly stain wooden surface.
How to choose the right stain
Stain or, as it is also called, stain is a finishing coating for wood, which, without painting, favorably emphasizes its structure. It consists of a pigment and a base, which can be water, alcohol, or oil. Recently, water-based stains based on acrylic resins have become very popular. In addition to being decorative, they have the properties of a good antiseptic.
Another type of stain is wax. The thin film of wax that forms when covering the surface with stain not only gives decorative effect natural wood, but will also reliably protect it from water.
When choosing a stain, you must be guided by the following criteria:
- Operating environment (outdoor or interior work). Exterior stains contain pigments that are resistant to ultraviolet rays.
- Composition safety. In children's rooms or children's household items, stains without harmful compounds are used. These include water-, oil- or wax-based stains.
- Powdered or ready-made stain. Water and alcohol stains are also available in dry form. They must be bred at home. If there is any doubt that the desired result will be obtained, then it is better to give preference to ready-made stain.
- Method of applying stain to a surface. It is better to apply alcohol stains with a spray gun, as they dry very quickly and it is difficult to achieve an even coating. Small objects and surfaces are covered with brushes, foam rubber or fabric swabs. For a large finishing area, use a sprayer.
- Design solution interior or exterior. It is important to know that the sample presented in the store often differs in color from what is obtained during finishing. The reason for this may be different species and structure of the tree, lighting. Even different batches of the same type of stain have differences in shades when coating.
Sequence of work
Surface preparation
High-quality finishing is obtained only on a surface that is free of dust, dirt and grease, without defects in wood processing. If the surface of the wood has already been painted with something, then the old finish must be completely removed. Coniferous wood needs to be deresined.
The cleaned surface is sanded twice. This is done first with coarser sandpaper (No. 120), then with finer sandpaper (No. 220). Wood sanding is carried out only along the grain. The resulting dust is removed with a damp cloth, and dirt with some solvent or alcohol.
The stain can only be applied to a clean and dry wood surface. In order not to make a mistake with the color of the coating, do a test paint job. You need to take a small sample. First, cover it with one layer of stain, after 2/3 of the sample has completely dried, cover it with a second layer. The third layer should cover 1/3 of the wood piece. This will allow you to choose the finishing option you like.
Application methods
With a brush you can apply almost any stain to the prepared surface. Difficulties arise only with alcohol-based stain due to rapid drying. Vertical surface begin to cover from below so that smudges are not absorbed by unpainted wood. This significantly improves the uniformity of the coating.
The second and subsequent layers can be applied after the previous one has dried. For oil-based stains, the drying process lasts up to 3 days, for water-based stains - up to 3 hours. The coating is applied along the wood grain. When painting a surface with a brush, it is important not to go into adjacent areas that have already been treated with stain. This way you can avoid unwanted stains.
Water-based stain can lift wood grain. After the first layer, wait for the stain to dry and sand the surface with sandpaper. Then remove the resulting dust and cover the surface with the next layer.
The stain is applied using a swab by rubbing in. This method is only suitable for small surfaces. A tampon can be made from a piece of foam rubber or thick fabric. Wax sealants are applied using this method. It allows you to achieve uniform surface coverage. This is especially true for rocks with a porous structure.
Spraying stain onto a wooden surface is most often used for large areas of coverage. Alcohol-based stains dry quickly and during their application, for example, with a brush or swab, it is difficult to avoid spotting. Spraying with a spray gun allows you to achieve high decorative quality finishing, regardless of the base of the stain.
Defects in operation and ways to eliminate them
When applying stain, it is very important to avoid smudges, which are quickly absorbed into the wood and significantly worsen the appearance of the finish. A small amount of stain on the brush and a thin layer of coating can avoid this defect.
You can remove unwanted stains from stain using sandpaper, or in more difficult cases, with a plane. You will have to act carefully, gradually removing the darkened area of the wood and smoothing out sharp transitions.
For porous wood species in which the coating is absorbed unevenly, it is better to use wax-based stains or gel stains. They cover the surface with a thin layer and do not penetrate deep into the wood structure. You can also treat the surface of the wood with a special conditioner compound, which will prevent the active absorption of the stain.
The “apple-colored” defect occurs when pigment thinners are of poor quality or there is a lack of skill in spraying stain. Stains form on the surface covered with stain.
When applying stain with a spray gun, in order to avoid coating defects, it is necessary to adjust the material supply torch. It should be oval in shape and the spray angle should be approximately 90°.
Coating defects can arise from poor-quality sanding of the wood surface. In this case, it is necessary to remove the layer and sand it again. Then cover the surface with stain.
Remaining stains of grease and dirt due to poor cleaning will appear when applying stain. Here, too, it is necessary to remove the poor-quality layer by grinding, clean and degrease the surface. Apply a new coat of coating to clean, dry wood.
Making your own stain
There is a large number folk recipes making stain at home. Various shades of brown can be obtained by preparing a solution of ordinary potassium permanganate. It is necessary to experiment a little to achieve the desired result, selecting the concentration of the solution. The surface stained with potassium permanganate must be protected from fading, for example, with varnish.
Another simple way to stain wood is to brew strong tea. It will give the wood a rich brown tint. You can also kill a tree with strong brewed coffee. The natural brown color comes from wood treated with a rich decoction of the shell. walnut, crushed to a powdery state.
A decoction of oak bark will give the wood a black tint. Golden color obtained by processing wood with a decoction of buckthorn fruits. A red-brown tint can be obtained by treating a wooden surface with a concentrated decoction of onion peels.
How to achieve a special effect when staining wood
An interesting effect of aged boards can be achieved by using, for example, white water stain as the main tone. After drying this layer, apply a layer of gray or black thick wax stain, which will emphasize the texture of the wood. In this way you can combine stains of different colors.
The appearance of worn, erased boards is achieved by applying a water-based stain to the surface as a background. Without letting it dry, you need to wipe off part of the stain in the right places, imitating abrasion. After complete drying, cover the surface of the product with a second layer.
The stained surface of the wood is lightly burned to reveal the texture. gas burner. Firing can be done only after the stain has dried. Next, the surface is cleaned with a shoe brush.
A beautiful effect with a pronounced wood structure is obtained by applying the first layer of water-based stain white. After drying, an oil stain with the addition of melted wax is applied to the main background.
Not all stains have antiseptic properties and can protect wood from the influence external environment, therefore it is better to coat the treated wood with varnish on top to extend its service life.
Wood is often used in country or home projects. However, in its natural form it does not always look decent, matching the surrounding objects and furniture. When exposed to ultraviolet light, it turns gray. Without being covered by anything protective composition wood is very hygroscopic and begins to “play” not only from the moisture that gets on it, but even from the difference in summer and winter humidity. Therefore, wood finishing is an almost necessary procedure if you want a wooden item to retain its consumer qualities for as long as possible. In addition, a properly finished item has significantly more decorative look, than in your natural one. This article talks about in a simple way wood finishing.
You can trim any type of wood, from birch to oak. However different breeds They look different after finishing. For example, birch (not Karelian or birch burl, but our ordinary birch or birch plywood) is quite homogeneous. She does not have contrasting transitions or streaks around the knots. Spruce and pine look quite beautiful, especially their \\\"round-knot\\\" parts. And oak, beech, and chestnut look absolutely gorgeous.
Dry before finishing wooden part sand thoroughly with sandpaper. In this case, all movements of the skin should occur strictly along the fibers and without strong pressure. Any deep transverse scratch after staining and patching will immediately become noticeable.
After sanding, the wood must be thoroughly vacuumed to remove all microscopic dust from its fibers. After this, the part is coated with wood stain. Stain can be aqueous or non-aqueous. Water, naturally, on the water. It is used quite rarely and for small parts. Non-aqueous (solvent based) - for anyone. Personally, I prefer non-water. It has a wider range of colors and is easier to work with; it absorbs quickly and dries quickly.
So, the prepared wood is generously impregnated with stain. At all, small details stained by immersion in stain. But you can’t immerse a large board or panel, so they use a regular brush. The stain is applied to the wood in excess, trying to apply it so that the wood absorbs as much stain as possible, and the stain penetrates as deeply as possible into the wood. After this, the parts are allowed to dry a little and proceed to the second important stage of finishing - washing.
During washing, all excess stain that remains on the surface of the wood and is not absorbed is washed off. At the same time, the pattern of wood fibers is sharply revealed and its contrast is significantly enhanced. The tree becomes much more beautiful.
Non-aqueous stain is washed using large quantity acetone. Use a thick, large brush. In order to actually remove excess stain, and not spread it across the wood, proceed as follows. The brush is dipped into a bowl with acetone and, holding the wooden part at a slight angle (20-30 degrees), with light pressure, move the brush from top to bottom, as if driving off excess stain. The other end of the part rests on the work table and some very hygroscopic material is placed under it. I use paper napkins. They are not expensive, and they absorb moisture perfectly - that’s what they are designed for.
When the brush reaches the end of the part, it slides onto these napkins and the acetone-mordant mixture is immediately absorbed by the napkins. Then the brush is again dipped in acetone and the stain is washed off. And so on until the part becomes uniform and stops being washed. After this, the parts are again allowed to dry a little, this time with acetone.
Third and final stage- This is varnishing the part. It is carried out in two stages. The first stage is the so-called raising the pile. As you know, wood is very hygroscopic and readily absorbs any liquid that comes into contact with it. At the same time, it changes its geometric dimensions - i.e. swells. Therefore, after staining and washing, it is no longer as polished as it was before the finishing procedure began. And you can feel it by touch by running your palm over its surface. Therefore, the pile is raised for the purpose of its further removal by sanding.
The pile is raised using quick-drying furniture varnish type NTs-222. This is a nitro varnish, dissolved with acetone or solvent 646. Having diluted a little varnish with a wide soft brush, quickly sweeping movements along the fibers cover the entire part and allow it to dry. After the varnish has dried, you will feel, when you pick it up, how rough it has become. This is lint - small fibers of wood that have become detached from neighboring cells, have begun to bristle and have hardened under the influence of varnish. Therefore, the part is ground again using fine sanding paper. In this case, they do not apply grinding machines, and sanded only by hand.
Having sanded the part, it is carefully vacuumed again and subjected to final finishing. Its type is chosen depending on the purpose of the part, the place of use (house - street), what the owners like (matte or glossy surface), etc. If the part is intended for home use- it is enough to cover it with another 1-2 layers of the same varnish NTs-222 and it will acquire a semi-matte surface.
In general, this method of finishing wood is quite cheap, allows you to get a fairly decorative appearance and has only one drawback. Quite strong-smelling materials (varnish, acetone) are used here. Therefore, all work should be carried out either outdoors or in a well-ventilated area equipped with an exhaust hood. In addition, we must take into account that these are very flammable materials. Therefore, there should be no open fire nearby.
Konstantin Timoshenko
Comment.
Sometimes, while sanding wood, unpleasant scuffing occurs, and sometimes the loose piece is lost. In the vast majority of cases, these exfoliated or completely fallen off acute-angled fragments of the structural pattern are almost the most beautiful places the entire pattern. (They are clearly visible in the photographs attached to the article) Peeling can also occur during the drying stage of the stain. Regular sanding after varnishing is not enough. The chips, as a rule, bend out of the plane by 1.5-2 millimeters, and after patching - even more. When faced with such a nuisance, you shouldn’t get too upset. Just glue the capricious petal before further processing with any product suitable for gluing wood and do not forget to press down, carefully removing the squeezed out excess. By the way, in order not to bother with glue, you can use varnish prepared for subsequent coating. The gluing procedure is the same. Once dry, sand lightly if e! There is a need, the place has been restored and you can safely proceed to further processing.
If the workpiece has defects (chips, cracks, traces of the vital activity of various insects or the losses described above), and replacement, for various reasons, is impossible or undesirable (unique design, complex shape, for example), then it is necessary to carry out a simple restoration. To do this, it is advisable to collect and store the resulting wood dust at the sanding stage. A little later, it will serve as a filler in the preparation of “putty”. The wood is perfectly putty. But you will have to prepare the mixture for restoration work yourself. The base is preferably colorless furniture varnish; the filler is already known and if there is not enough of it collected, take a homogeneous piece of material and sand it with a sander as much as necessary; the color is still the same stain, non-aqueous, of course. Or in most color schemes - ordinary iodine. Alcohol and a solvent are, of course, an unimportant combination, but I did not observe any rejection reactions. Take a sniff of wood powder, add a drop of varnish, stir it with something! add color little by little, continuing to adjust until the desired shade is achieved. You can apply the solution (putty) with any tool that you think is convenient, even if it is not intended for the purpose. For example, I fell in love with poster feathers of different widths. A thin feather is convenient for applying the putty mass, and a wider feather is for “rubbing and smoothing.” And don’t rush to straighten the surface immediately after sanding!! This procedure must be performed only after tinting the product with stain and washing, since the hardened mixture practically does not take on the color. But if he does (you can force a mountain to move), then the result obtained will be far from the desired one. You know, it is very difficult to give a leveled tiny area the required shade by repeatedly poking it with a brush or swab, without coloring the adjacent surface. And she already absorbs the color with great pleasure. So you will have: it’s dark there, it’s light here, and then vice versa. And on the wood drawing! your daub won’t work at all.
Also, you should not prepare the mixture for the entire volume of work at once, unless, of course, you have a single defect of a uniform color. Adjusting shades is not a quick task, and the mixture dries before you know it. Therefore, mix the “putty” exactly in the amount necessary to straighten one specific color fragment. Upon completion of the repair and after the mixture has completely hardened, very carefully rub the restored areas with “zero” and, having appreciated the result, proceed to varnishing and polishing.
Dmitry Petrov.
It should be added that, as a rule, stains, unfortunately, are best saturated with soft fibers that have more light color, and dark fibers, which have a higher density, are impregnated worse. After staining we get a certain tone, of course, but in professional language this color is called negative.
To prevent this from happening, the surface must be primed with a solution of liquid glass and water before staining. After drying, the surface becomes slightly more old look and the pile rises. Now all this just needs to be sanded a little and can be treated with stain. Liquid glass It has closed some of the pores of the light fibers and will now stain more beautifully and with contrast.