Today we'll talk about how to properly transplant cyclamen at home, when is the best time to do this and how to care for it after transplantation.
You have a cyclamen growing on your windowsill - an elegant plant with graceful leaves and unusual flowers, as if turned inside out, on long stalks. At some point it begins to seem to you that the cyclamen pot is too small and needs to be replanted. But when? How? In what soil? And is a transplant really necessary? Well, let's go point by point.
You won’t have to start by buying a beautiful pot. First of all, determine which species your cyclamen belongs to.
The fact is that Persian cyclamen and purple cyclamen, which mainly grow on our windows, on some issues have completely opposite views on life - and this must be taken into account.
What species is your cyclamen?
When to replant cyclamen?
And this is where we need a table to determine the type of cyclamen you have. Of course, it is customary to replant plants at the end of the dormant period.
But the thing is that if the purple cyclamen (which is not called European for nothing) lives according to the time of the Northern Hemisphere, “sleeps” in the winter and comes to life in the spring, then the Persian cyclamen, on the contrary, rests in the summer, and by the fall wakes up, gains strength and begins to bloom.
So it turns out that the purple European needs to be replanted in the spring, and the Persian inhabitant - in the fall.
Which soil should I choose?
On this issue, both cyclamens are extremely unanimous. They prefer light and nutritious soil and are not particularly picky about this issue. 1 share of sand to 2 parts of peat or humus, a good layer of drainage at the bottom - and the cyclamen is happy.
And don't forget, tuber Persian cyclamen They don’t bury the whole thing in the ground - only half of it! But the purple one can be buried so that only the leaves stick out.
Soil recipe for cyclamen: sand and peat/humus 1:2
Choosing a pot
Oddly enough, cyclamen loves cramped spaces, but in too big pot suffers, withers and refuses to bloom. Therefore, it is replanted (or rather, transferred with a lump of earth) no more than once every two years, and the pot is selected so that there are literally two or three centimeters of soil between the tuber and the wall. What can you do - there is no arguing about tastes!
Care after transplant
Cyclamen loves coolness and bright, but diffused light, so in no case place it on a south window, in direct sunlight. It is best suited for a cool eastern, western or even northern loggia, a temperature of +15-19 degrees, not too dry air and regular watering.
A secret from experts: if you lower the temperature to +8-12 degrees, cyclamen will bloom much longer, sometimes as much as six months in a row. Theoretically, in nature it can withstand temperatures down to -10, but homemade, potted specimens usually do not welcome such experiments.
And by the way, one more thing: cyclamens do not tolerate tobacco smoke. Who to give the loggia to, a flower or a smoker - decide for yourself.
Lighting and temperature
Watering
As for watering, there are also some nuances here. During the growth period, the soil should be constantly moist, but under no circumstances should water reach the growing point. If you flood the growing point, the leaf petioles will rot and the plant may die.
Therefore, cyclamen, especially purple ones (those with a tuber entirely in the ground), are watered not from above, but carefully along the edges of the pot, or even pour water into the pan so that it penetrates into the ground from below.
And of course, you should not give a shower to the Persian cyclamen sticking out of the ground - the plant will not appreciate it. But you can carefully spray the leaves with water from a spray bottle, because cyclamen really likes moist air.
Watering cyclamen: moderately along the edges of the pot or from below, through a tray.
Feeding
During the flowering period, cyclamen must be fed frequently, literally every two weeks, but wait a month after transplantation. (In the first month, the plant gets used to the new place and takes root, so it has no time for increased nutrition.)
The easiest way is to use dry or liquid complex fertilizers specifically for these flowers. But - attention! - this is only for the flowering period. Because as soon as the cyclamen fades and begins to prepare for a new dormant period, all feeding should be stopped immediately, and watering should be reduced.
Place the pot in a dark, cool place (but not in the refrigerator!) and do not fuss around it - let it sleep. But still water occasionally.
Cyclamen leaves change color
If the cyclamen leaves turn yellow, do not rush to get scared and save the unfortunate plant. Return to the identification table: is your flower from the Persian region?
The fact is that the foliage of the Persian cyclamen dries out before the dormant period begins, and this is normal. There is only one tuber left, which overwinters quietly. Tear off the dry leaves, and he doesn’t need anything else.
But if the purple cyclamen turns yellow, this is a signal: it’s too hot for it here, and no matter what, it will refuse to bloom. Quickly give it some coolness!
Sometimes they appear on the leaves brown spots and hems. These are sunburns. The recipe is simple: urgently remove the plant from a sunny place.
Gray coating on cyclamen leaves
He talks about the appearance of gray rot, a dangerous fungal disease that appears when a flower is watered too generously or the entire flower is doused with leaves.
Treatment: cut off damaged leaves, treat the plant with antifungal drugs and water more carefully in the future.
That's all you need to know about how to replant cyclamen correctly and wait for the appearance of delicate flowers on long stems. Go for it! - and your cyclamen will certainly please you lush flowering in a new pot.
Among the diversity indoor plants There are flowers that are often used as gifts. Get a pot of beautiful flowering bush cyclamen, violet or anthurium are doubly pleasant: such flowers cannot be compared with a bouquet, because it will quickly wither, and the bush will delight the eye for a long time, and may even produce “offspring.”
The favorite cyclamen is a herbaceous perennial from the Myrsinaceae family with a very bright and abundant flowering. Its original colorful inflorescences in the form of butterflies with raised wings proudly rise above the foliage on long stalks and form a lush flower cap that is simply impossible to pass by. And the leaves themselves, with their rounded shapes and light patterns on a dark background, are also very decorative. Thanks to the spectacular appearance and long-term (more than 3 months) flowering, cyclamen has long won its place in the hearts of home plant lovers.
Planting and caring for cyclamen seems difficult only at first glance; in fact, this flower feels quite comfortable on windowsills and is able to decorate them more than once with its blooms. The main thing is to know some of the nuances of growing and create it favorable conditions. How to do it correctly, that’s what we’ll talk about today.
Features of planting cyclamen
The root system of the plant differs significantly from the roots of most representatives of indoor pets, which plays one of the main roles not only when planting it, but also in further care behind the flower. Cyclamen is somewhat reminiscent of bulbous crops: its root is a large, flattened, rounded corm. Its average diameter is about 15 cm, with only one growth point.
When planting an adult cyclamen, the tuber cannot be completely buried in the ground: at least 1/3 of it must remain on the surface. The exception is the European species of plant, in which the roots grow not only in the lower part of the bulb, but also over its entire surface.
The soil for the flower must be light and nutritious. Already sold in the store ready-made substrates specific for this plant. A soil mixture for Saintpaulias is also suitable for him. 
If desired, soil suitable for cyclamen can be made independently by mixing in equal parts:
- leaf soil;
- sand;
- turf land;
- humus.
There is one more nuance on which both the development and future flowering of the plant directly depend. A pot for cyclamen should be chosen with a small volume (of course, taking into account the size of the corm itself).
When choosing a flowerpot, you need to be guided by the fact that there should be no more than 3 cm from the tuber itself to the walls of the planting container. Only in such “close conditions” will cyclamen soon be able to bloom.
What does cyclamen love and what is it afraid of?
When planning to grow a plant, it is worth considering what it prefers:
- coolness;
- fresh air;
- sufficiently high air humidity;
- diffuse lighting.
The most comfortable temperature for a flower is up to 20 degrees Celsius, but not lower than 10 degrees. For it to bloom in winter, you need even less - up to 14 degrees Celsius. Frequent ventilation allows you to provide cyclamen with an influx of fresh air, especially during the heating season. You can also refresh the bush with regular spraying; in addition, it will raise the humidity and lower the temperature in the room.
When ventilating the room, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of a draft - it is detrimental to the flower.
Another important point in caring for cyclamen at home concerns watering. It is best to moisten the soil in a pot using the bottom watering method, lowering the flowerpot into a bowl of water. Keep it there until the substrate is completely saturated with moisture and the top layer becomes wet. Then you should remove the cyclamen and allow the excess water to drain. The liquid from the pan must be drained so that it does not stagnate.
Bottom watering of cyclamen will eliminate the possibility of moisture getting on the top of the corm, as well as directly on the flowers and leaves. If you water the bush directly into the pot, there is a risk of flooding the growing point, and this usually ends in rotting of the tuber and, accordingly, the loss of the entire plant.
Cyclamen can also be watered directly into the pan, not forgetting to then drain excess water from it.
Regarding the application, cyclamen is one of those indoor plants that are better to underfeed than to overfeed. 
The flower responds well to complex preparations for flowering plants, especially in liquid form, but the working solution should be prepared strictly following the recommendations for its use, sometimes even reducing its concentration.
The purchased plant does not need fertilizing for the next 2-3 months: usually store-bought soil contains a large amount nutrients, with which the plant is “seasoned” so that it blooms profusely and has a beautiful “marketable” appearance.
How often should I replant the plant?
Cyclamen does not grow very quickly, and a young corm can sit in a pot for two years. During this time, it will increase in volume and it will be possible to transplant the cyclamen into a larger pot, at the same time changing the substrate to a fresh one. It is better to replant using the transshipment method, without completely clearing the old soil from the tuber, so as not to damage it. The first feeding after this procedure is done a month later.
Cyclamen should be handled at the end of the dormant period, before it begins to grow, but there is no need to take a very large container, otherwise you may not see the next flowering.
A flowering plant donated or purchased in a store (even if it is absolutely clear that the transport pot for it is too small) cannot be replanted - you must wait until it blooms and rests.
How does cyclamen rest?
When the bush finishes flowering and the inflorescences fade, the leaves begin to turn yellow, and over time, only one tuber remains in the pot. Many gardeners think that the plant is lost, and often even throw it away. However, this is completely in vain, because this is how cyclamen prepares for a period of rest.
Fading leaves can be carefully removed without waiting for them to dry out completely. To do this, simply twist the petioles clockwise without using scissors.
Caring for cyclamen during the dormant period is simple:
- with the beginning of yellowing of the foliage, the frequency of watering begins to be reduced;
- the pot with the “bare” round tuber remaining in it is moved to a darker place, where it will receive less light, but will not be hot;
- The hibernating cyclamen is watered occasionally to prevent the soil and corms from completely drying out.
Most often, plants hibernate in winter, when the room is too warm and dry for them, because it is known that cyclamens bloom profusely only in cool and wet conditions, although the spring-summer break is also typical for them.
Flowers rest for three months. This time is enough for them to recover and gain strength before the next abundant flowering. 
After the specified time has passed, the pot with the corm is returned to a bright place and watering is resumed. Soon leaves will appear from the bulb, then buds will form and everything will repeat all over again.
Preferred method of reproduction
As already mentioned, the cyclamen corm has only one growth point. True, sometimes there are specimens in which several of them are formed, but this happens very rarely. For this reason, it is almost impossible to obtain a new plant by dividing a tuber, especially since even if it is possible to carry out such a procedure, the divisions take root extremely reluctantly and in most cases die.
The seed method is the most realistic and positive-resulting method of propagating cyclamen.
You can sow seeds at any time of the year, but it is better to start working in early spring. Then the daylight hours are long enough, which allows seedlings to good lighting and avoid pulling them out.
Before sowing, it is better to pickle the seeds for disinfection purposes by soaking them in a solution of potassium permanganate. Instead, you can use any growth stimulator.
Fill the seedling container with nutritious soil mixture, make shallow grooves in it and spray them well with a spray bottle. Lay out the prepared seeds, leaving a distance of at least 2 cm between the seeds. Lightly sprinkle the crops with soil and cover the top with film or glass to create greenhouse conditions. They will remain in this form for 12 months until they germinate. At this time, it is necessary to periodically ventilate the greenhouse and spray the soil, and also not allow temperatures to be too high, otherwise the seeds will “fall asleep” instead of germinating.
If after a month the seedlings have not yet hatched, there is no need to rush to throw them away: the seeds of certain varieties of cyclamen can “sit” in the ground for more than 5 months.
When the seeds germinate, the film is removed and the seedlings are grown without it. After the plants have formed a pair of true leaves and their own small nodules, they are picked into separate cups. It is noteworthy that you can plant them in pairs or even 3 pieces, since each young bulb will not need much space.
When picking plants, young corms are completely covered with soil, unlike adult cyclamens.
In such small groups they will “sit” and grow for about six months, after which the bushes are individually transplanted into flowerpots with a volume of no more than 7 cm. The first flowering of young cyclamen can be seen no earlier than 18 months from the moment of sowing the seeds, and some specimens take as long as three years to prepare for this. They can bloom in summer or even winter, depending on the time of sowing and growing conditions.
How to care for cyclamen - photo
During the flowering period, it is worth additionally fertilizing the soil, about 2 times a month.
How and when can cyclamen be transplanted?
Liquid flower fertilizers are used for fertilizing. different types. Concentration in water is half a cap per 2 liters of water. When watering with either just water or fertilizer, you need to try not to get the liquid into the flower or leaves.
Propagation by seeds
The seeds are planted to a depth of about 1 cm. It is best to make furrows to this depth, watering them with water, and then plant the seeds at some distance from each other. The temperature must be at least +20 C.
Fusarium
Wet rot
Anthracnose
Sooty fungus
Video: Cyclamen care
Cyclamen - reproduction
Potted plants are increasingly being used as gifts. The cyclamen flower is perfect for these purposes; you can propagate it yourself. This is a rather complex process, so the main thing for the gardener is to follow the recommendations outlined in this article.
There are two ways to propagate cyclamen: by seeds and by dividing the tuber. Let's look at each of them in detail.
Growing cyclamen from seeds
This procedure is best carried out in August, after a period of rest.
- First, soak the seed in water or a 5% sugar solution. Only seeds that have sunk to the bottom can be used for planting.
- We lay them out on top of moist, light soil and sprinkle them with a layer of earth 0.5-1 cm thick.
- We cover it with an opaque material and place it in a room with an air temperature of +20°, regularly moisten and ventilate the greenhouse for a month.
- After the seedlings have germinated, remove the covering material and place the container in a well-lit place. During this period, plants need more low temperature— +15-17°.
- After the formation of a tuber with 2-3 leaves, we transplant them into separate pots.
- After a week, we feed with fertilizer for flowering plants. You should take half the recommended dose.
How to plant cyclamen by dividing the tuber?
- During the dormant period, we remove a tuber with several eyes from the soil, dry it and divide it into parts. The delenka will take root if it has some roots and at least one bud.
- Treat the cut area with activated carbon and dry it in the shade.
- We place them in separate pots.
Replanting cyclamen
The soil for planting cyclamen should first be disinfected: by steaming or treating with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
As a result of this method of propagation, cyclamen will bloom earlier than usual.
Cyclamen care at home
Another name for this beautiful flower is Alpine violet. It originally grew in the Mediterranean. Many flower gardeners compare cyclamens with a flock of colorful butterflies that have settled on green grass.
And all because he has unusually bright and beautiful flowers. Their color varies in a wide range: bright scarlet, snow-white, pink, red, crimson, peach, purple. And the shape of the flowers themselves can vary greatly.
Cyclamen care at home - photo
Favorable growing conditions
Firstly, you should choose a room that is very well ventilated and has high level consecration. Special temperature requirements environment no, this flower can withstand temperatures of 12 degrees, but even the slightest drafts have a very negative effect on it. The soil must be loose, that is, it must be loosened manually from time to time.
How to care for cyclamen - photo
This flower loves water, so it is necessary to water it constantly and abundantly. Ideal option- pot with tray. If there is one, water can be poured into it, but stagnant water must be removed to avoid rotting of the roots.
The amount of water should be increased growing season flower development. The air in the room should also be maintained at a high level.
During the flowering period, it is worth additionally fertilizing the soil, about 2 times a month. For feeding, liquid flower fertilizers of various types are used. Concentration in water is half a cap per 2 liters of water. When watering with either just water or fertilizer, you should try not to get the liquid into the flower or leaves.
It is worth carefully monitoring the amount of mineral salts in the soil - cyclamen does not like them. When planting, you should not feed the plant until the first shoots appear. When replanting, you cannot feed the plant for six months.
Transplantation is carried out in three cases:
- At the end of summer, after a period of little activity of this flower.
- With excessive development of tubers.
- When it is necessary to change the soil.
This flower may not tolerate frequent replanting, so cyclamen should not be replanted more than 2-3 times a year. Each type of cyclamen has its own characteristics that should be taken into account when planting. The roots of Persian cyclamen grow downward, so the top of the tuber must be above ground level.
But in European cyclamen, the roots grow over the entire surface of the soil, so they must be deepened into the ground. Feeding can be done one month after transplantation.
If you want to increase the number of these flowers, but there is no way to buy new ones, then there are 2 types of division - division by tubers and propagation by seeds.
Reproduction by dividing a tuber To divide, you must use an already mature tuber. It needs to be divided into parts sharp knife. In this case, each part must have a separate kidney. After dividing, the sections must be sprinkled with crushed coal for disinfection.
The segments need to be dried for several days, otherwise it will have a bad effect on survival rate. After drying, the tubers can be planted in the soil, deepening 2/3 of the tuber. They will take root within 1 month. Cyclamen grown in this way will bloom earlier than those grown from seeds.
Reproduction by dividing the tuber - photo
Propagation by seeds
You need to plant seeds early spring: February-March. But you can plant at any other time, but growth will occur more slowly. Before planting, it is necessary to stratify the seeds.
Seeds are planted to a depth of approximately 1 cm.
Why do you need a cyclamen transplant at home?
It is best to make furrows to this depth, watering them with water, and then planting the seeds at some distance from each other. The temperature must be at least +20 C.
If all important conditions are met, the first plants will germinate in 2-3 months. But there are also some slow-growing varieties that germinate only after 5 months. When the first shoots appear, the container should be placed where the sunlight falls. After 6-7 months, young cyclamens can be transplanted into pots.
Cyclamen diseases and their treatment
Fusarium
On the second side of the plant there may be hyperactive growth, but there will no longer be sufficient flowering. How can you fight fusarium wilt? You just need to water the plant itself with a solution of the same name, and then treat the root system with it.
Wet rot
This is a bacterial disease. It appears when a flower is infected with the Erwinia bacterium. The symptoms are as follows: cyclamen begins to gradually fade, leaves fall and hang out of the pot, the infected tuber smells very unpleasantly of rot.
The roots of cyclamen begin to rot quickly. The disease penetrates into the flower through the stems, in places where the leaves are torn off. Bacteria can also enter the plant through contaminated water. Once your plant has been exposed to this bacterium, it is no longer possible to save it.
Anthracnose
This disease can appear in cyclamen only during flowering. Anthracnose progresses only when high humidity and warmer. In other cases, the bacteria die or freeze in suspended animation. The disease mainly affects flowers and leaves.
The shoots look damaged, the flower stalks become dry. With this disease there is no flowering. The leaves become infected from the flower stalks. You can immediately notice this - they curl into a tube, and the old leaves dry out and die. When infected with this disease, you simply need to reduce the air humidity and remove the infected areas of the plant.
Sooty fungus
This disease begins with the fact that aphids leave sweet juice on the leaves, in which this fungus develops. It is not harmful in itself, but it does block the leaves from sunlight.
Therefore, the development processes of the entire plant slow down sharply. And the more this fungus is allowed to develop, the more it will be necessary to restore the flower, if you do not start this matter to the extreme stage, when the flower has already completely rotted.
Video: Cyclamen care
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proFlorista.ru » Houseplants » Cyclamen » Cyclamen care at home
A lot of people have cyclamen in their homes. This is a plant whose flowers create a wonderful atmosphere in the house. It is very important that cyclamen blooms in autumn and winter, when it is almost impossible to find flowers anywhere. So how to properly care for it? beautiful flower at home? Today we will talk about how to make cyclamen please its owner all year round.
Cyclamen: photo care at home
Cyclamen grows in tubers. Two types of cyclamen are grown at home.
Growing cyclamen at home: important nuances of planting and caring for a demanding beauty
This is a European species and a Persian one. The most common is Persian cyclamen.
The flowers of the plant look amazing. There are all the different shades you can imagine. The plant blooms from October to early spring. As soon as flowering ends in the spring, watering should be stopped. All dried leaves must be removed. Next, the plant must be transplanted into fresh soil. In the summer, cyclamen is placed in the shade.
At the end of June, you can start watering the plant again by spraying the leaves. In the fall, if a lot of roots form in the pot, you need to replant the cyclamen into an even larger pot. This time the tuber is not planted at a great depth. Then you need to put the flower pot in a bright but damp place.
When cyclamen is purchased, you need to carefully examine the condition of the plant. The leaves should not hang down or be dry. The plant tuber should be lightly on the surface and not scratched.
Cyclamen needs large quantities light, but not in direct sunlight. When the plant blooms, it needs to be watered abundantly, but without excessive moisture. Watering should be done as many times as possible to maintain soil moisture as much as possible. Water should not get on the tuber. It is best to pour water directly into the pan. Do not water cyclamen with tap water. You need to insist on it. It is very important to follow the correct temperature regime. It is 15-17 degrees. The plant does not tolerate heat. Since in the summer such a temperature in the apartment is practically unattainable, you should not exceed 25 degrees. IN winter time the flower is removed from the batteries.
There is no need to spray cyclamen. If water gets on the tuber, it will destroy the cyclamen. But if the room is very hot, then you can humidify the air from a spray bottle. This will make it easier for the plant to overcome the heat.
You can’t do without fertilizer for cyclamen. Approximately once every two weeks you need to fertilize the plant. Fertilizers are specially sold for cyclamen. When there are no flowers, bait is not required. When cyclamen has lost the color of its leaves, you need to additionally fertilize the soil.
Transplanting a plant
Cyclamen is usually replanted in the summer when new leaves appear. The distance between the tuber and the edge of the pot should be three centimeters. Drainage is an integral part when transplanting cyclamen. To prevent pests in the soil from spoiling cyclamen, you need to treat the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate. About a third of the tuber should stick out above the surface of the ground.
After transplantation, cyclamen is placed in a cool, dark place. Watering does not start very strong. As soon as the leaves begin to appear, you can immediately add water and fertilizer.
The flower can be propagated by seeds or by dividing the tuber. Few people do this at home.
Cyclamen disease
Like any other plant, cyclamen can get sick. The reason for this is the wilting of the leaves. Maybe the room is too hot. Sunlight also has a detrimental effect on the plant. Weak watering leads to the death of roots. If the flowers and leaves wither, then perhaps you overdid it when watering or it got on the tuber.
Rapid flowering of cyclamen indicates a lack of nutrients and heat in the room.
Indoor cyclamen flower, photo
Caring for Cyclamen (Persian).
Lighting. Cyclamens are light-loving plants. They grow well on the windowsills of east and west windows. When growing cyclamen near a south window, the plant requires shading from direct sunlight. The room should be well ventilated.
Temperature. Temperature is very important for the successful cultivation of cyclamen. The optimal temperature in the autumn-winter period is 10-12°C. At higher temperatures, the plant sheds its leaves and the flowering period is shortened.
When purchasing a plant grown in a greenhouse, it is very important to provide it with suitable temperature conditions at home. It is not always possible to keep the plant cool in an apartment; to help the plant acclimatize and prolong its flowering, try to accustom the plant to more high temperature gradually: place it on the coldest windowsill, ventilate more often.
Humidity. Increased humidity is required; spraying during leaf growth is useful. After the flowers appear, you should not spray; the humidity should be increased using wet pebbles or creating a water mist near the plant.
Watering.: Water often, but little by little. The water temperature is 2-3 degrees below room temperature. Until the flower stalks appear above the leaves, the plants can be watered from above, then only into the pan. Drain off excess water. During the dormant period, when the plant has completely shed its leaves, watering is reduced, but trying not to let the substrate dry out completely.
Fertilizers For long flowering At least once every 2 weeks, combine watering with fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers with a high potassium content.
Transfer. When the cyclamen has completely faded and most of the leaves have turned yellow (that is, the plant is preparing for the dormant period), it can be transferred to a larger diameter pot by adding fresh turf soil or peat substrate. It is necessary to ensure that the tubers are at the level of the substrate or protrude slightly above it.
Soil. It is important to ensure good aeration of the roots, so it is better to use a breathable substrate based on coarse-fiber peat. The mixture is prepared from leaf soil, humus, peat and sand (1:1:1:1), you can buy ready-made.
Rest period. From May to July, the tuber is dormant and completely sheds its leaves, the regrowth of which begins at the end of July. During this period it is kept in a cool, dry place.
Caring for European Cyclamen (Cyclamen europaeum).
Home care has much in common with growing other cyclamens, but there are also significant differences.
European cyclamen has a different name - “purple cyclamen” (Cyclamen purpurascens). This name is more correct because bottom part this type of cyclamen has a burgundy tint, by this feature the plant can be distinguished from other species.
home flower Cyclamen purple loves good light, but does not tolerate high temperatures.
Proper transplantation of cyclamen at home
Therefore, it is better to place European cyclamen in our apartments on east and west windows. Purple cyclamen should not be placed in the kitchen or in smoking areas in an apartment, as this flower is very sensitive and does not tolerate smoke well.
If your cyclamen is located on a window, you need to remember that the window sills can get very hot from the radiators in winter central heating.
Therefore, it is good to put it under a pot with a plant for insulation. wooden board. You can put European cyclamen between window frames, if you have them sufficiently sealed and the temperature does not drop below 7 degrees Celsius. The plant will feel good if the pot with cyclamen is placed in a tray; at the bottom of the tray you need to pour expanded clay, fine gravel or sand and pour a little water.
It is important that the water level does not exceed 5 cm, otherwise the roots of the cyclamen may rot, which will lead to its death.
Houseplant (cyclamen purpurea) - does not have a pronounced dormant period, unlike other species, it does not lose leaves and remains green all year round.
Therefore, European cyclamens are watered (when cared for at home) all year round. It is better to use soft and cool (5 degrees below room temperature) water for this.
This plant should be watered carefully, around, without flooding the middle.
Remember, stagnation of water in the pot leads to rotting of the cyclamen tuber. From time to time, homemade cyclamen needs to be dried a little. In summer, European cyclamen is watered more often when caring at home, and in winter less often as the earthen clod dries out.
Remember that indoor flower(Cyclamen purpurea) growing in an apartment does not need to be sprayed.
The domestic flower (European cyclamen) is a fairly cold-resistant plant, so when growing in the wild it tolerates a decrease in temperature to 22 degrees cold.
When caring for at home, European cyclamen should not be kept at such a low temperature, because it is worth considering that in the forest it grows under trees, mainly under beeches. These trees shed a lot of leaves, which act like a blanket to keep the cyclamen warm in winter.
When kept in a room that is too dry and warm, the abundance and flowering time of cyclamen purple are reduced, and the leaves may turn yellow.
The optimal temperature for keeping an indoor flower when caring at home is from 15 to 22 degrees Celsius, humidity should be moderate, about 40%.
This flower does not like spacious pots; it may even stop blooming if transplanted into a very large deep pot. Therefore, indoor cyclamens (European) are rarely replanted once every three years, as the plant grows. It is better to do this in March before the plant begins to lay new buds and actively grows.
The soil for planting is taken from leaf soil mixed with sand and humus. Before planting, do it at the bottom of the pot good drainage. European cyclamen, unlike other species of this plant, are planted in low pots, as its tuber grows wide. The root of this type of cyclamen must be completely covered with soil when planting.
When keeping purple cyclamen in an apartment from March to October, regular feeding is carried out every two weeks (universal, for flowering plants mineral fertilizer).
The fertilizer should have a small nitrogen content, since its excess can lead to root rot...
In winter, European cyclamen is not fed with anything, as there is relative peace in the life of the plant.
In European cyclamen, when cared for at home, daughter nodules appear on the tuber every year; they are easily separated from the adult plant and take root; after a year, adult plants grow from them.
Purple cyclamen also reproduces by seeds, which appear on the plant when kept in the garden in the summer or through artificial pollination.
Flowering of domestic European cyclamen, like its wild varieties, occurs in the summer from late May to early October.
The flowers of indoor purple cyclamens have a strong and pleasant aroma. Withered and dried flowers of cyclamen purpurea should be removed along with the peduncle, since their presence can lead to rotting of the plant and damage to the plant by pests.
Diseases of cyclamen purpurea are most often associated with waterlogging, for example gray rot.
To prevent this, the plant should be kept in a well-ventilated area; do not overwater it; you should regularly inspect the leaves and remove damaged ones.
Sometimes indoor flowers of European cyclamen are affected by mites and aphids. In this case, the plants need to be isolated and treated with an insecticide. But in general, the plant does not bring much trouble to its owners when cared for at home.
In apartments, this type of cyclamen grows for a long time, up to 15 years. This plant reproduces well and quickly.
Purple cyclamen blooms with beautiful fragrant flowers for a long time, throughout the summer. The flowers of European cyclamen are usually smaller than, for example, those of the Persian cyclamen, but its flowering is much more abundant, since the number of flowers per year can reach up to 80 pieces.
The intensity of flowering depends on the size of your plant and the quality of its care.
By the way, in winter this indoor flower does not lose its decorative value, since it remains beautiful shiny dark green with a silver pattern and jagged edges of the leaf.
Cyclamen ivy in a pot
One day in late autumn I walked into a flower shop and froze when I saw cyclamen tubers for sale. These were dry (you could chop them with an axe), flat “cakes.”
And next to the interesting tubers is a large photo of a charming plant with many pink flowers and the caption “European cyclamen.” However, these dry, flat tubers were not similar to the European cyclamen tuber. And they didn’t look like the Persian cyclamen tuber either.
In addition to these mysterious flat tubers, I was fascinated by two cyclamen buds that looked like sleeping swans. Out of curiosity, I bought a tuber.
Then I started looking for information about my newbie, cyclamen.
It turned out that his name was changed more than once. This plant was called ivy-leaved cyclamen, Neapolitan, and European. But then they returned it to its previous name - ivy-leaved cyclamen.
Planting ivy-leaved cyclamen in a pot and caring for it
I kept the purchased cyclamen tuber in a solution of potassium permanganate. Then I dried it a little (turning it over so that excess moisture did not damage the growth point) and planted it in a wide two-liter pot.
First, I crumbled foam into the bottom of the pot and filled the container halfway with the substrate. The tuber was not completely buried, but only slightly pressed into the ground. I watered the planted cyclamen little by little, alternating watering into the pan and along the edge of the pot.
When the cyclamen tuber took root, its buds rose and bloomed into small flowers with a delicate aroma.
And after the buds, leaves appeared from the tuber. But the young leaves of cyclamen did not grow upward, but were first “buried” in the ground. And only then, having “surfaced” at the walls of the pot, they unfolded completely. Extraordinary beauty!
In the first year, my cyclamen did not retire. As soon as it began to lose leaves, the tuber appeared new buds, and then flowers; and new leaves sprouted.
After observing the development of my cyclamen, I came to the conclusion that the tuber of this plant should be completely buried in the substrate when planting.
In the literature it is recommended to plant ivy-leaved cyclamen tubers to a depth of 10 cm. But this is in open ground. And when planting it in a pot, I sprinkled the cyclamen tuber with just half a centimeter of soil.
Storing the ivy-leaved cyclamen tuber and replanting it
Finally, last summer, my cyclamen gave the signal that it was ready to rest. When its leaves dried up, I removed the plant to a cool loggia, placing the pot under a shelf.
Occasionally I poured water into the pan and sprayed the soil so that the tuber did not dry out.
When I saw that buds appeared on the cyclamen that had begun to grow again, I replanted it.
Unlike the Persian cyclamen, my ivy-leaved cyclamen had roots only on the sides of the tuber. I shortened them a little, powdered them with a mixture of crushed charcoal and root, then planted the plant in the same pot. I put polystyrene foam and moss down, and sprinkled some crumbled droppings near the walls of the pot.
How to replant cyclamen at home
She placed the tuber on a mound of soil and straightened the roots. And this time I completely covered the tuber of my ivy-leaved cyclamen.
I watered the transplanted cyclamen into a tray, avoiding waterlogging of the top layer of soil.
In August, the first flowers appeared on the ivy-leaved cyclamen, and two months later - leaves. By winter, its flowering has ended, but even faded cyclamen pleases me with a “bouquet” of leaves with an amazing pattern.
Elena Khomich
http://moicveti.ru
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Properly selected soil when planting indoor plants is primarily the key to their rapid and healthy growth and development. There are several types of soil substrates: peat, clay, leaf, heather, compost, turf, coniferous soil.
Depending on its needs for certain organic compounds, it is recommended to add a certain amount of sand, charcoal and dry moss to the nutrient mixture. You can get the soil mixture in two ways: by purchasing it ready-made in a specialized store or preparing it yourself.
What kind of soil does this plant need?
Cyclamen prefers a loose soil mixture with a large amount of organic impurities. Important has its acidity, since the availability of minerals is associated with this. For cyclamens optimal value pH 5.5–6.5. Leaf and turf soil, humus, crushed peat, sawdust and straw cuttings are ideal for all these requirements.
Land for plants at home
You can prepare soil for indoor flowers and plants yourself if you know their needs and have everything you need on hand. What soil composition is suitable? Soil for cyclamen at home should consist of the following components:
- 1 part perlite/agroperlite/sand;
- 1 part leaf soil;
- 1 part peat;
- drainage layer at the bottom.
Very important question drainage for cyclamen. Best options small pebbles or small pebbles will protrude.
Important! If you mix sand into the soil, it is recommended to initially steam it.
The right pot
A pot for planting cyclamen must meet the following parameters:
- the diameter and depth of the pot must exceed the size of the plant tuber;
- the pot must be equipped with a tray;
- the pot should have drainage holes in the bottom or bottom;
- the pot must be stable.
How to replant?
Immediately before planting, the soil in the pot needs to be loosened and moistened. The distance from the tuber to the edges of the pot should not be more or less than 2-3 centimeters.
no need to plant tightly and deeply in the pot and compact it with soil, otherwise it will begin to rot when watered due to stagnation of water. The soil around the tuber should remain loose and soft.
No less important is the fact that when planting a plant, you need to make sure that the tuber is completely covered with a soil layer and does not rise above its surface. If the root part is not completely covered with soil, this can lead to complete drying out of the entire plant.
Watering
At all cyclamen is constantly needed. It must be carried out according to the requirements of the plant itself. When the soil around the plant begins to dry out and turn grayish in color, it is time to water the cyclamen. Water for irrigation should be settled and at room temperature.
Reference. Do not allow moisture to stagnate in the earthen coma of the plant, this will lead to its complete death. To do this, it is worth watering the plant through a tray or from a water-dispersing sprinkler.
Cyclamen loves moisture. It needs to be sprayed with a spray bottle, but not during the flowering period.
Top dressing
Feed cyclamen at the very beginning of the growing season. But you shouldn’t overdo it; it’s enough to carry out the procedure once every 1.5-2 weeks. Before adding any fertilizers to the soil, you need to pour earthen water around the edge of the pot so as not to burn the dry roots.
The following purchased products are often used: Floretta, Vila, Lauren. These drugs are diluted strictly according to the instructions. Usually this is 0.5 cap of product per 1 liter of soft, settled water. WITH mineral supplements need to be careful. During the growing season they should be applied in small quantities.
Cyclamen - herbaceous flowering perennial from the Mirsinov family. It belongs to the tuberous representatives and is grown at home. Popular among gardeners due to its unpretentiousness in terms of maintenance and care. Has a long flowering period. Despite all the advantages of cyclamen, regular plant replanting is required for full growth and development. Only in this case is the flower able to please the owner with its appearance for almost 20 years.
Description
Cyclamen is a herbaceous tuberous perennial. The most commonly found potted varieties are Persian and European cyclamen. Their flowering period begins in October and continues until the first month of spring. Single erect flowers of various colors bloom at the tops of the shoots: pink, white, red, purple. The leaves are rich green, sinewy.
The characteristics of indoor cyclamens are described in the table:
| Name | Description | Photo |
| Persian | The bush is 25–30 cm high. The root is an oval, flattened tuber, about 16 cm in diameter. The leaves are heart-shaped, green in color, with a steel pattern on the surface. The inflorescences are elongated, dense, with twisted petals. Peduncles are erect, 20–25 cm long. After flowering, the foliage is shed | |
| European | Popularly called alpine violet, which is due to its place of growth in nature - the Alps. It differs from the Persian in its more compact size. Tubers with a diameter of no more than 10 cm. The leaves are heart-shaped, dark green above with silver inclusions, red below. Doesn't shed leaves after flowering |  |
The plant tends to fade quickly, which is sometimes caused by elevated temperature indoors.
For long and full flowering of cyclamen throughout the winter season, it is necessary to maintain reduced temperature air and acceptable humidity along with an abundance natural light. The plant categorically does not tolerate direct exposure to rays, which leads to burns on the leaves and loss of decorative appearance.
When buying a flower in a store, you should pay attention to a number of external factors:
- the tuber should protrude slightly above the surface of the earth;
- A healthy plant has dense stems;
- The structure of the leaves is leathery, with a bright green color and visible veins.
Drooping bushes hanging over the sides of the pot indicate an unhealthy state of the plant. The presence of the slightest signs of mold and slimy plaque, which can serve as a source of infection of other indoor flowers with fungal or viral pathologies, is unacceptable.
How to replant cyclamen correctly?
The need to transplant indoor cyclamen arises in the following cases:
- a greatly overgrown tuber, when the roots become cramped in the old pot;
- the need to change soil due to its depletion;
- completion of flowering - at the end of summer.
It is strictly forbidden to replant a plant if there are buds on the stems. It is necessary to wait out this time or have time to carry out the procedure before budding. The permissible limit of transplants is 2–3 times a year.
It is necessary to carry out an annual replanting after flowering, which is due to the need to replace old soil that has lost nutritional elements during the growing season, during the fertile period. During the transplantation process, the roots are also inspected for damage and rot.
After purchase, the plant must be moved to a new pot.
Prepare the soil composition by mixing:
- peat;
- river sand;
- humus;
- leaf compost in a ratio of 1:1:1:4.
It is first calcined in the oven or spilled with manganese solution for disinfection. For better survival of plantings, vermiculite is added to the soil composition.
The pot is selected based on the age of the flower: for cyclamens up to 1.5 years old, a diameter of within 10 cm is suitable, for older specimens - 15–17 cm.
The gap between the tuber and the walls of the container should not exceed three centimeters. Too large a volume will not allow the roots to fully absorb the excess moisture that accumulates, which will lead to their rotting.
Step-by-step instructions for correct transplantation cyclamen:
- 1. Holes are made in the bottom of the selected new pot.
- 2. Lay out a drainage layer of expanded clay, brick chips or pebbles 1–1.2 cm thick.
- 3. Fill in new soil mixture up to half the height of the container, with a depression in the center to accommodate the bulb.
- 4. First, remove old leaves from the bush by twisting the cuttings. Transfer the bulb from the previous pot using a transshipment method, keeping the adhering lump of earth.
- 5. Hold the plant suspended and gently sprinkle it, leaving the top of the head open. Tamping is not required, since the tuber needs free access to oxygen.
After completing the work, place the flower in a bright and warm place without drafts. The first watering is possible only after 7 days. The water flowing into the pan is immediately drained. They begin to feed cyclamen after a month, using ready-made complex formulations.
Aftercare
After transplanting a flower, it is necessary to create acceptable conditions for successful adaptation in a new place. First of all, choose the right location for the next 1–2 months. It is recommended to keep flower pot on the windowsill on the north side.
Further care includes:
- Systematic moderate watering. When flooding occurs, dampness is created, which leads to the development of pathogenic microflora in the soil. Prevent drops of moisture from getting on the leaves, buds and protruding top of the tuber. It is recommended to moisten the cyclamen through a tray, which allows the plant to absorb the required amount of moisture.
- Maintaining the room temperature at 15–17 °C. When ventilating the room, the flower is removed away from the flow of cold air.
- Removing faded foliage. This must be done manually: scissors cannot be used.
If cyclamen is replanted during the dormant period, the leaves will certainly begin to wither. This is not critical, since after emerging from hibernation, the green mass is quickly restored. It is enough to keep the plant cool and remove dead leaves.
An equally important component of care is feeding, which helps cyclamen to fully grow and develop. Suitable mineral compounds, available for free sale. Fertilizer is applied once every 2 weeks, until the first buds set. During the dormant period, feeding is stopped.