Wooden design of the gate. Do-it-yourself gate - the best options, diagrams, drawings and projects for home and garden (135 photos). With a frame made of a profile pipe with corrugated sheets, metal...

The gate performs an important function. But in addition to protection from intruders, the gate can serve as an excellent addition summer cottage. There are quite a few building materials, from which you can make a gate with your own hands. This article talks about several simple technologies.

To build a wooden gate, you will need the following building materials:

  • ten larch boards 2000×140×20;
  • two pine boards 2000×150×50;
  • two hinges, a latch and a door handle;
  • six metal toothed plates;
  • four brass plates and one corner;
  • about forty pieces of brass screws;
  • a can of wood primer;
  • can of protective agent;
  • one can of varnish.

To successfully carry out the work, you need to acquire the following tools:

  • chisel with hammer;
  • wood hacksaw;
  • plane;
  • drill;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • sandpaper, pencil, piece of rope and level.


To attach the gate, it is most convenient to use two concrete pillar. Work begins with the manufacture of two sidewalls from pine boards on which your gate will be fixed. After aligning the boards vertically (using a level), you can use self-tapping screws to secure both sidewalls to the support posts.

Then we proceed to assembling the frame, which is assembled from four well-painted larch boards. The corners of the structure are reinforced with corrosion-resistant strips installed on self-tapping screws.


In order to give the entire resulting structure greater rigidity, you can use specially shaped metal-toothed plates, which should be slightly recessed into the wood during installation. Now you can install the hinges of the future gate on the previously prepared support frame.

After checking the fit of the finished frame into the gate opening, you can begin to manufacture a special strut that gives additional rigidity to the entire assembled structure. This strut is fixed to the base using the same metal-toothed plates.


We attach the finished frame to the hinges and install the first sheathing board on it. Each of the installed boards must be secured with at least two self-tapping screws, and the corner boards must be secured with three. In this case, a hole should be drilled for each self-tapping screw and countersunk so that the head can be recessed.

Then a handle and a latch are installed, and an oval of the upper cut of the boards is drawn along the top of the boards using a rope (used as a compass) and a pencil. We cut the boards along this oval using a jigsaw.

Gate with gate


It is not always possible to install a gate separately from the gate. In this case, you can install a gate in the gate. Considering this type of construction, we will learn how to do this using corrugated sheeting:

  • First of all, install the support pillars on which the gate leaves will be attached. Considering the large load on the pillars, their fasteners must be of high quality. For this reason, support posts should be tied to the main fence structure.
  • Now you can assemble the frame. Divide the total width of the opening into two equal parts. To construct the frame, you can use a profile pipe. This is an excellent material because it is light in weight.
  • To ensure that the fastening of the corrugated sheets is symmetrical, place all horizontal guides at the same level in the frame.
  • In the gate section you choose, leave an opening for installing a gate. To do this, on the side of the frame of the sashes attached to the post, weld a vertical guide from profile pipe. It is this guide that will hold the gate in the future.
  • The gate is made according to the specified dimensions. Please note that they must match down to millimeters. Therefore, check all the measurements that relate to the opening for the gate several times.
  • Now that the gate frame is ready, you need to install the hinges on the gate frame and on the gate itself. It is important here to avoid distortion. Therefore, it is better to lay the frame of the gate and wicket on horizontal surface. Place the gate in its place and attach the hinges. Make marks at the intended installation locations for the hinges.
  • As for the hinges on the support posts and on the frame of the gate structure, the situation here is different. Make appropriate markings on the posts that will indicate the location of the gate. Afterwards, step back 250 mm from each mark and attach one half of the hinges. Now proceed to the markings on the gate frame and mark the location of the second half of the hinge. In this case, take into account the distance calculated on the supports.

To simplify this task, you can prepare a special mounting strip, which is welded to the loop.

When the gate with a wicket is installed on the hinges, all that remains is to cover the frame with corrugated sheeting.


If you do not want to carry out such a combination, then you can sew up the frame of the gate with completely monolithic polycarbonate.

As can be seen from this article, there are many options for how and what to make a gate from. You can make your own experiments, combine different materials. The main thing is that the result is beautiful gate, which will be a great addition to the fence and your home.

Video

Photo

In the photo you can find many ideas for making a gate:





When choosing a fence for a site, most owners want it to perform several functions at once: to be presentable, practical, and economical. These requirements are fully met wooden gates and fences that you can make yourself.

Wooden gates have been used for fencing a private home for a long time. They had simple form, but had such advantages as environmental friendliness, ease of installation, affordable price. But there were many more shortcomings. Among them: fragility, the ability to quickly ignite, crack, rot, and low protective qualities.

But thanks modern technologies wood processing everything has changed. Now the material is impregnated with special agents that significantly increase the service life of the structure and its resistance to aggressive environmental factors.

The use of various machines, combinations with other materials, allows you to createbeautiful wooden gates, distinguished by their original shape and appearance. And the installation of a modern locking system significantly increases their protective properties..

Note: the entrance group is made of natural wood, may become important element landscape design. Made in a folk style, it will give the site a special flavor and make it stand out against the background of neighboring territories.

Material selection

Based on the material of manufacture, they are distinguished:

  • completely wooden, all elements of which consist of natural raw materials;
  • combined, created by combining several materials. The structure can be made of wood, the pillars can be made of brick or stone, and the frame can be made of metal.

The doors also differ in their design. Antique products look very colorful. They are large structures made from artificially aged solid wood and are often complemented with large metal fittings.

Carved wooden gates made in the traditional Russian style are in demand among consumers. Such openwork designs become a real decoration of the plots.

For those who prefer classics and conciseness, suitable entrance groups in a rustic style, distinguished by its simplicity. Wooden canvases with forging elements look more elegant. They can be decorated with flowers, figured elements and even family monograms made of metal.

Please note: the choice of a certain type of sash and design of the structure depends on the purpose of its installation and the characteristics of the site.

DIY decoration

Before making a wooden gate, you need to draw up a preliminary sketch of the structure. This will allow it to harmoniously fit into the surrounding landscape, purchase everything necessary materials, plan the sequence of work. Also at this stage, the dimensions of the product and its configuration are determined, depending on the width of the existing opening.

To make the door itself from solid wood you will need:

  • wooden beams for the frame, boards for sheathing;
  • metal fittings (hinges, corners);
  • consumables (screws, bolts);
  • tools (drill, level, square, tape measure).

Installation of supports

According to the drawing of the wooden gate, the area for installation of the structure is marked. In the designated places, half-meter recesses are made for the pillars. The distance between them should slightly exceed the width of the sash.

A 5-centimeter dense sand layer is formed at the bottom of the pits. The ends of the beams, which will be deepened in the ground, are fired blowtorch, and then installed in the holes, leveling. The posts are covered with crushed stone and filled with concrete.

Frame construction

The panel must be supported by something, so at the next stage the frame of the wooden gate is made. Most often it has the shape of the letter Z or a rectangle with an additional crossbar in the middle. To construct it, the beams are laid out on a flat surface and then fastened with bolts. Additionally, the joints of the parts can be reinforced with a metal corner.

The finished frame is checked for evenness and fitted to the opening. It is fixed with supports and leveled. Having adjusted the position of the frame in the opening, hinges are attached to the pillars.

Please note: the height of the frame should be 5-10 cm shorter than the door leaf, so it will be invisible and will not worsen appearance products. The optimal distance from the finished section to the ground is 3 cm.

Sheathing of the structure

Before you make a wooden gate with your own hands, you need to decide whether it will be solid or lattice. To form a solid canvas, the boards are nailed to the frame close to each other. To create a structure like a picket fence, a certain gap is left between the sheathing elements.

On final stage DIY wooden gate structures can be varnished or painted. This work is carried out only on dry wood. For slight tinting and manifestation of its natural structure of the raw material, stain is used. After it is absorbed, the wood is coated with varnish, which will protect the product from negative impact natural factors.

If the natural color and texture of the wood does not suit the owners of the site, they can paint the product. The color of a DIY gate can match the roof of the house or the fence of the area.

Important: after installation entrance structure It would be a good idea to install it on it. This can be a small latch or a full-fledged key lock. It will provide additional protection to the inhabitants of the site.

A wooden gate for a summer house or a private house will make the entrance to the site more neat, presentable, and will protect the territory from the entry of unauthorized persons. It can be executed in various versions, the simplest of which can be implemented on our own.

Modern fences can be both truly designer products and works of art, and the most ordinary wooden structures, which inspire us with the atmosphere of the village and refined taste. And of course, no fence can do without a gate, which you can easily make with your own hands.

Tools and materials

In order for the wooden gate to be of the highest quality and the assembly process to proceed smoothly and without hitches, you will need to assemble everything in advance necessary tools, and also purchase materials so that during the work process there is no need to run to the store and buy more of what you urgently need.

So, what tool will you definitely need:

  • Wood saw, for sawing wood. An electric jigsaw would be a good alternative; it will be easier and faster to work with.
  • Screwdriver and drill, with sets of drills and bits for screwing in self-tapping screws.
  • Just in case, a screwdriver, hammer and pliers.
  • Tape measure, pencil, square.
  • Construction level.
  • Shovel for earthworks.
  • Wood glue.
  • And of course, screws and nails.
  • Hinges, lock and handles.

From the materials you need to prepare boards, slats, bars, and several large beams for the pillars that are suitable for you. As you can see, there are not too many tools and materials, and they are all easy to assemble, even if there are problems with purchasing, you can always find something from neighbors, friends, or just rent.

Wickets and gates made of wood are most often made of pine or larch; the second is preferable because it is extremely resistant to rotting.

Choosing a design

A wooden gate can be very diverse, here everything is limited only by your personal imagination. On the Internet you can find hundreds various options how to decorate a wooden gate, what shape to make it, what to use for decoration, etc.

If you take general classification, then we can distinguish a number of the following types of gate designs:

  • Solid – the level of visibility of the area through such a structure is zero.
  • Viewable - from the name it is clear that such a gate has gaps through which you can easily see everything that is on the site.
  • Frameless - these gates do not have a frame; all slats are fastened with jumpers.
  • A gate with a frame - there is a frame and all the elements are fixed to it.
  • Straight options - made in the shape of a square or rectangle, have straight shapes without cutouts and other things.
  • Decorative carved models are very beautiful, but difficult to make products.

Choosing the right one for yourself is not so easy, but you can choose exactly the gate that will fit into your interior as accurately as possible and will perfectly fulfill all your wishes.

If you can't find a suitable one ready-made option, try to draw an acceptable model yourself, and then bring the sketch to life.

We assemble the gate from scratch

The entire installation process should be divided into separate stages, then the work will progress better and faster. We have compiled a small step by step plan, which will help you navigate and by it you will know exactly where to start assembling.

When specifying the frame size, leave a margin on both sides. This is necessary so that the gate can open freely. And secondly, the tree can gain moisture and swell during rain and wet weather.

So, what installation stages do you need to go through:

  1. Installation and fastening of poles.
  2. Assembling the frame for the gate using the “spike” method.
  3. Installation of gates on poles.
  4. Production of complex architectural elements and forms.

Installing pillars

The process of securing the supports begins with excavation work, for which we have prepared a shovel in advance. We dig a hole with the smallest diameter that a bayonet shovel allows. The depth should be approximately seventy centimeters; this depth will be enough to keep the gate stationary even with frequent use.

Installation of poles must be done by at least two people. Hold the post, controlling its plumb position, and fill the hole with crushed stone.

Then we install the beams there and wedge them with boards, bars, stones or any other hard materials.

After the tables are installed and wedged, we carefully check the evenness and installation with a level and begin to cover them with earth. It is best to thoroughly dry and crush the excavated soil. Then it is filled up, compacted as much as possible and spilled with water several times as the hole is filled. Subsequently, you get a pole that will easily stand for many years and remain reliable support for your gate.

Making a tenon connection

Since the gate is the face of your fence, laying board on board and twisting them into a frame will not be an acceptable solution. Here you need to work more carefully and put in a little more effort. An excellent option would be to make a tenon joint, that is, one board with a tenon will go into the groove on the second. This is quite easy to do, but you will need to work hard and do some pretty painstaking work.

First we will make a tenon for our frame. We take a board, mark the size of the tenon and make two cuts on both sides of the board at the beginning of the tenon. Then, using a hammer and a sharpened metal plate or chisel, carefully knock off the excess so that only the middle remains. Then use an emery board, file or sanding machine to level the surface.

The gate frame must be checked for geometric dimensions. The corners of the gate frame must be 90 degrees.

In order to make a groove you will need a grinder or a router; if the first is easy to find, the second is quite problematic. Cut two recesses the width of the tenon, then use the same chisel to knock out the resulting middle. We sand and we can start joining.

To ensure that the boards are securely fastened, we coat both elements with glue, then connect them and leave them to dry, while catching some kind of weight.

Wicket installation

To install a gate, you just need to screw the hinges onto the post and install the lock, after which you can use the gate right away. The lock clings in the closed position, so you will do the work more accurately, and it is guaranteed not to jam.

Complex architectural forms

To give the gate a more attractive look, you can round the top, decorate it with curves and other elements. To do this we need an electric jigsaw, a pencil and cardboard or plywood.

Start by drawing an exact line on cardboard, what shape you want to give to the future gate, and then cut out this stencil. Having attached the cardboard to the gate, begin to carefully walk along it with a jigsaw, after which the cut edges should be sanded and painted or varnished.

Necessary accessories

In order for the gate to work properly, you need to select suitable fittings for it. For installation outdoors, there must be special hinges that do not corrode and do not freeze when severe frost, withstand high pressure and have a fairly easy move, even when a heavy structure is installed on them.


The lock and handle should be selected based on the same indicators so that they do not rust, are durable and do not freeze.

Once the gate is in place, mark the holes for attaching the hinges to the frame and post. Do this carefully without changing position, then attach the loops.

Painting the structure

Before you start painting, you should do a series of preparatory work. To begin with, wooden gates are carefully sanded or sanded with sandpaper. Then it is wiped to remove any resulting dust. Any defects such as dents should be immediately repaired with a special wood putty. After this, it is necessary to carefully open the wood with a special primer for street work and wood.

It is best to apply the primer in two layers, then the effect will be much better. After complete drying, you can begin painting the structure or opening it with any varnish. Paint and varnish should also be applied in two or even three layers, then the color will be of better quality and more saturated.

Any fence must have an entrance. Gates are made for the entry of cars, and wickets for the passage of people. They are made on a frame made of wood or metal, the filling is selected the same as in the fence or something original. If the entrance is between two brick walls, you can choose the filling to your liking. Moreover, making a gate with your own hands is not so difficult, at least there are some simple options.

Device

The gate consists of support posts and door leaf on a frame, which is attached to the posts using hinges. The pillars can be brick (stone), wood or metal. When laying bricks, small pieces of thick metal or a thick metal rod are walled up, to which the frame is subsequently welded.

Unusual gates with wooden frame and original filling

Metal poles are made from round or profiled pipes with thick walls. Round pipes They are used less and less: it is more difficult to weld or attach anything to them. A profiled pipe with the same cross-section (diagonal compared to diameter) and wall thickness can withstand high wind loads; it is easier to weld or fasten to flat edges using self-tapping screws and bolts. Therefore, it is increasingly used when installing gates. Another option is to weld a metal corner to the frame made of a profile pipe. In this case, the filling will appear as if in a frame.

The construction of gates with wooden and metal frames is the same

Wooden posts are usually used if the fence is wooden. Most often the pillars are pine timber, treated with protective impregnations. They prevent (or slow down) the destruction of wood. But there are also cases when metal poles are installed, but the gate and fence are wooden. This is because wood in the ground quickly rots, even after protective treatment.

A little about the design support frame. It can simply be two pillars dug into the ground - this option is suitable if the soil is not prone to heaving (sand, sandy loam, fertile but not clayey soils).

The pillars began to move. If there are jumpers at the top and bottom (in this case you can make an arch at the top), the likelihood of such a problem will be much reduced

For heaving soils (clay, loams), it is desirable that the pillars be connected at the top and bottom. In this case, the likelihood of the gate skewing after winter is very small. If you do not want to make a threshold in the opening, the lower lintel can be lowered below ground level (by a bayonet and a half). It will need to be thoroughly coated with an anti-corrosion compound, primed, and painted in several layers. And to avoid distortion, you should bury the pillars below the freezing level by at least 15-20 cm.

The frame of the gate is made from metal pipe or wooden blocks. Wood is used for wooden fences, metal - in all other cases.

With a frame made of a profile pipe with corrugated sheets, metal...

Probably the most universal option gates - with a frame made of a profile pipe or metal corner. On metal base you can attach any filling material: wood, sheet metal, corrugated board, metal picket fence, flat slate, polycarbonate, chain-link mesh, metal rods, forged or bent elements... make a combination of several materials. There are a lot of options; if you want to make a gate, they usually mean a square pipe, and the design is chosen in the same style as the fence.

Frame made of profile pipe. Filling - cold forging and wood

Dimensions and materials

For a gate with a solid filling (wood, sheet metal, corrugated sheets, etc.), for the pillars take a profiled pipe with a cross-section of 60*60*3 mm. You can use thicker walls, but it’s better not to use thinner ones. For the frame, a rectangular pipe 40*20*2.5 mm is usually used. The strength of this pipe is sufficient for medium wind loads. For light wind loads, you can take a 2 mm wall, but it will be more difficult to weld. Anything thinner than 2.5-3 mm must be welded in a special mode, and this is far from easy. If the winds are stronger, you can either increase the wall thickness, or use a larger cross-section: 40*30 or 40*40, even 40*60.

Related article: Types and selection of dressing table with mirror for the bedroom

The height of a gate with an upper crossbar is usually about two meters, without a crossbar - from 1.2 m. Low ones are usually made in internal fences that delimit a site or in translucent low external fences. For solid high fences made of corrugated sheets, wood, flat slate the height at the fence level is more typical. The width of the gate is minimum 90 cm, optimal 100-110 cm.

It’s also worth talking about how deep to bury the pillars. Standard solution - 15-20 cm below the freezing depth. Based on this number and the height of the gate, the pillars are made.

Additional jibs increase rigidity

Using a drill, a hole is made in the ground, at the bottom of which a bucket of medium-fraction crushed stone is poured. Then a pole is installed, set vertically, covered with crushed stone (you can use broken bricks and other construction waste), compacted, poured concrete mortar. When the solution has gained at least 50% strength (after 7 days at a temperature of +20°C), you can attach the frame to the posts. If you want to make a wicket right, do just that.

An example of self-production: photo report with explanations

The fence is made of corrugated sheets with brick pillars, respectively, and a gate made of corrugated sheets. They were walled up in the pillars during construction. metal plates, welded with a pipe in the middle. It was decided to make a gate with additional jibs - so that the corrugated sheet would be more rigidly fixed, and also to strengthen the area where the lock is attached. The lock is still old, replacement is possible.

End result

We weld the frame of the gate using an inverter welding machine from a profile pipe 40*20*3 mm. We will install it “in place”, welding it to the mortgages. Cutting the blanks:

  • two crossbars length from one pillar to another (it turned out 108 cm),
  • two racks - 185 cm high.

We cook the frame

We do not weld the crossbars, but only “grab” them to the embedded plates so that they hold on. Literally two welding points per mounting location. Before welding the second side, check that the crossbar is horizontal. We lay down the building level, correct the position, then grab it. So, it turns out that there are two horizontal jumpers in the opening.

We attach the crossbars to the mortgages with two points

We weld vertical posts to the installed crossbars. They must be vertical - at the junction with the jumpers the angle is strictly 90°. We check during the connection process and adjust if necessary. Also: the seam must be good, strong, scald on all sides, along the perimeter of the pipe.

And on the other hand

The result was a frame attached to the pillars. We check the corners again, otherwise it may warp later and the gate will stop closing/opening.

We put the loops

Next is the most crucial moment - you need to weld the hinges. We took standard metal hinges for swing gates, which are abundant in any hardware store and on the market. They must be installed strictly vertically, and both on the same axis. Otherwise the gate will not open.

We weld the hinges.

Wicket with a frame made of profile pipe - design and dimensions

We weld the bottom hinge first, double-checking its verticality with a level many times. We try to install the second one on the same axis. First, we attach it to the embed, check it, and only then, if everything matches, carefully weld the seam. If everything is calculated correctly, the loop is adjacent to the frame pipe, so welding will not be difficult.

Related article: Interior doors made of oak: features of choice and variety of models

The hinge is welded to the gate

When the hinges are installed, remove the “tacks” that hold the gate. It magically now opens/closes. The next thing to do is weld the jibs. The work is simple: we cut pieces of pipe of the same length, apply them to the intended installation location, and mark with chalk how to cut. We take a grinder with a metal cutting blade, cut it, check it, if necessary, modify it (with a grinder or a file - depending on the size of the “jamb”). When the jib “has become”, we weld it.

It’s easy to weld the jibs

Similarly, we add reinforcement to the lock on the gate. For installation of old metal lock it was necessary to weld a piece of corner at the top, otherwise it would not be possible to secure it.

Making a gate also means welding a lock (it will look better when painted)

The last welding work - it is necessary to close the open sections of the pipes that are directed upwards and to the sides. If they are not closed, rainwater and snow will get into them, the pipes will begin to rust from the inside, which will accelerate the death of the frame. Welding at this stage is not necessary; you can seal it with silicone or find plastic caps suitable size.

Finishing work

We put an emery wheel on the angle grinder (grinder grinder) for metal, clean all welding points, removing rust, etc. By the way, it’s more convenient to do all this when the gate is in place. If you remove it, it will not be so convenient to work, you will have to turn it over, walk around it in circles...

Gate after priming

To prevent the frame of the gate from peeling for a long time, we will treat it with a rust converter, then with a primer. Next, you can attach the corrugated sheet. It needs to be cut to size and tried on.

And this is the final result: we decided to make a gate, we did it...

You will definitely have to cut somewhere to make everything open. Therefore, to begin with, we attach the cut sheet literally to four self-tapping screws - in the corners, make marks - where to cut what, remove it, cut it, try it on again. When you have achieved normal operation, you can fasten it “forever.”

Wooden gate for a summer residence

Fences at dachas rarely represent an impregnable barrier. Usually these are not too high wooden fences. For such a fence it makes sense to make a gate out of wood. There is a very simple one, no fuss. Only dry boards will be needed (provided that there are already pillars).

If you don’t have woodworking machines (thicknesser, router), it’s easier to buy edged board the required parameters. The width/thickness of the boards is arbitrary, as are the distances between the planks. Most often used pine board 6-10 cm wide and about 2 cm thick, the distance between the slats is 2-6 cm. More or less is possible - it depends on the desired degree of “transparency”.

One of the most common options

It is advisable to have dry boards. It’s unlikely that anyone will use a drying chamber, but aged for a couple of years or at least six months or a year (humidity about 25%) is already excellent. To prevent wood from deteriorating longer, it must be treated with protective impregnations. Now there are compounds that protect even wood that lies on the ground (protective impregnations for wood in direct contact with the ground). But some of them give the wood an extraneous tint (most often greenish, olive). If you are going to paint the gate, it's not a big deal. If you are planning to use a light varnish, pay attention to this point.

Simple garden gate

This is the simplest gate that an ordinary person, not a carpenter, can make. If you know how to saw, hold a hammer, and hammer nails, everything will work out. You don't have to do anything more complicated.

Good afternoon, today I will tell you about all-all methods of making gates with your own hands. In this article we will make swing WOODEN gates... But I also talked about metal gates in as much detail as possible - in a special article Metal gates – 50 photo ideas (from forging to metal profiles).

So... today you will find out ALL THE SECRETS... and all the principles... and the nuances of that how to properly make a wooden gate yourself - from scratch - without any skills in this field. At all! That is, you can be a green newlywed student... or a beginning summer resident-retirement... or a pampered city lady who inherited a village house... or anyone. If you need a NEW WICKET for your dacha or garden... then... my article is designed just for that TO TEACH you how to make any wickets brilliantly- either for yourself, or for sale to neighbors... Believe me, having assessed your skill, the neighbors themselves will come running to you with the desire to buy the same model of gate (... what a good dacha business... and fun at the same time).

Now let's get down to business... Making and installing gates - who knows, maybe this will be your new profession... with my light hand.

Here's what we'll do:

  • Wooden SLATT WICKETS ON A FRAME (several types)
  • Wooden FRAME gates (with sheathing or lathing)
  • Wooden WICKETS-PORTALS (with pergola-sheathing)
  • Wooden gates with ROUND ARCHES (designer and simple)

Yes, yes, all this - you WILL WANT and BE ABLE to do it yourself...After reading this article...

So, let's go... Chapter one... Let's start with something simple (so as not to frighten off faith in the success of the wicket project)...

Wooden garden gates - SLATT (i.e. made of slats, boards)

Everyone has seen gates like this everywhere... in old movies about village life... in your barefoot childhood on summer holidays with your grandmother... at your friends' dacha.

These gates are called FRAME... because... they have a FRAME-HOLDER onto which the laths are stuffed.

That is, this is the SIMPLE MODEL of a gate for a summer house or garden - which consists of two parts - a FRAME... and PADDING SLATS.

Here in the picture (above and below) we see a standard gate WithZ-shaped frame. That is, first we do letter shaped frameZ, and then we stuff 6-8 wide or narrow slats (boards) onto it. The hinges for hanging the gate to the post are attached to the horizontal beams of the “letter Z” of our frame.
As you can see (in the photo below)... you can attach NOT SLATS to the sides of the gate... but THICKER BAR... for the solidity of the product.

Hinges may be different - the main thing when choosing hinges is to take into account the LOAD that these hinges will bear. The heavier the gate you make, the stronger the fastening loops should be. Hinged gates are called swing gates... because they swing open, i.e. open in one direction.

Here another option THE SAME principle of creating a slatted gate (on a frame in the shape of the letter z)

But with ONE DIFFERENCE... here are the padding slats different lengths...longer in the center, shorter towards the edges.

And it turns out beautiful wave along the top edge of the gate.

Or... look see the photo of the gate below - what an interesting addition that was invented here!!! Alternating low and high slats...

By the way, the frame here is ordinary (not the letter Z), but simply two slats at the bottom and top (this is done for beauty, so as not to distract attention from the original sheathing)

... And it's worth it... look how interesting the CRATCH is made...

The slats go CLOSE to each other - they are packed WITHOUT GAPS...

but... long and short ALTERNATE...

That is, we are for the sheathing we prepare 2 GROUPS OF RACKSLONG group and SHORT group... And we do it so that within their group the slats are also not the same in length (one central one is the longest, next to it there are 2 shorter ones, then 2 more shorter ones... and so on to the edges.

We do SACK PACKING WITH ALTERNATING groups... and sizes...that is, CLOSER TO THE EDGES we stuff slightly shortened slats... and CLOSER TO THE CENTER we stuff slightly longer ones.
As you can see... small change...(the designer just played with the long slats) - and what a beauty it turned out to be.

Now let's talk about the frame - for such SLATT FRAME WICKETS.

As we already understood...

... A FRAMEWORK for our country gate may look like not just in letter shapeZ

Here in the pictures of the gates below - we see what can be done another frame for stuffing slats. In the form hourglass...or in the form of a triangle... any frame silhouette will be correct. The main thing is that it fulfills its task - holding the nailed sheathing boards.
Therefore, you can come up with your own frame shape (and this way and that way will be correct). Nothing limits your imagination. It all depends on what scraps of beams you found in your yard... and how much weight your metal hanging hinges for the future gate will withstand... (the more beams on the frame, the heavier the weight of the finished gate will be).

Here - in fact, you have already learned how to make a frame gate...

... AND IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THIS Wicket and swing GATES - IN THE SAME STYLE, then here’s a photo idea for you... (gate, gate and fence - all made by the hands of Homo sapiens)

Front view (nice)

Rear view - so you understand what kind of frame there is at the gate... see? Curved cross beams...very nice.
(don't be alarmed bent beam shapes in the frame... we will now gradually approach this)

And here’s something else I’d like to add about frame wooden gates...

If your entrance portal to the yard is TOO WIDE, then the swing gate can be wide, double-leaf... Consist of two halves swinging in different directions. Here is a close-up photograph of her, it will be useful for those who need it.

Now we will talk about the FRAME frame for gates...

WOODEN GATES - WITH FRAME...

LET'S LOOK HOW THIS IS DONE FRAME WICKET using a specific example from the photo of the gate below. I even I'll draw an assembly diagram such a gate - because clarity in pictures is always clearer than just “a lot of beech trees.”

Such a gate is made according to the principle -

  • knocked down a FRAME from the bars...
  • filled the frame with SHIATING or lathing (made of boards, slats, plywood)

The beams can be connected using SCREWS... long screws are screwed in diagonally... at an angle.

OR... you can connect the bars of the gate using the GROOVE-PIN method... The bars in their side have GROOVE HOLES (grooves)... and at their ends they have EARS-PINS - the ears are driven into the grooves (with a wooden hammer) and due to this, the frame elements are fastened.

On the diagram of the stages of ASSEMBLY OF SUCH A FRAME WICKET - we see on the vertical beams of the upper sheathing - these same ears... with them they are inserted into the holes on the bottom beam - and the upper beam of the frame is put on them (with their drilled grooves-holes they fall into the ears of the sheathing beams).

Of course you are interested STEP 3... you probably have a question: “What are these pins sticking out on the beams? And where can I get them?

I'LL TELL YOU. We will fasten these beams in the same way as balusters are fastened wooden stairs (gee-gee, you don’t know what balusters are?) These are the same sticks that are driven into the stair step with one end and into the railing with the other - they make up the stair railing, which prevents children from falling down the flights of stairs)
Here’s what they look like... using the example of this carved BALOST BEAM... (by the way, at your gate, no one forbids you to use NOT SIMPLE... but CARVED sheathing frames - it will be absolutely super).

So these are the same baluster beams are fastened using the PIN METHOD... Here's how to do it yourself. We need a thick drill... and a piece of wooden stick of the same thickness (this will be the pins) (hmm, even simple pencils made of hard wood will do for this role, they will hold very well).

So, stocked up with a drill and pins... let's start the process. At the end of our future slats, we drill a hole of such thickness that our wooden stick-pin fit through tightly. We drill to such a depth that this stick will fit in there only partially, 2-5 cm is enough... and so that 2-5 cm of the stick will remain sticking out...

And in this way, having made pins on the beams of the sheathing... and holes on the beam of the gate frame... we will attach the sheathing beams to the wicket FRAME.

As you can see, everything is simple. According to the laws of mechanical physics (to increase strength, the pins can be coated with any wood glue).

These gates from the photo below are made using approximately the SAME TECHNOLOGY...

That is, you can come up with your designsthe main thing is to adhere to a single principle YOU NEED A FRAME... and you need ITS FILLING (in the form of sheathing with a board or batten... or in the form of plywood sheathing)

WHAT WILL THE FRAME OF THE FORM BE – it’s up to you...

See how simple it really is...

You take it and do it - just 2 steps... 1) Made a FRAME... 2) Made it FILLING. And everything is ready - drill holes, hang your new gate on the hinges... And call the neighbors to grab it...

And then... and swing gates can be made according to the same principle of FRAME + LATING and SHIRTING... Beauty... And simplicity...

A swing WICKET can have a FRAME OF ANY SHAPE...

Even curved with graceful curves... and lopsided (with an oblique slope of the upper part)... Like here, for example (photo of the gate below).

Bent FRAME elements (for the frame of the gate) - cut from a wide thick board (or wide beam) - ordinary circular saw.

Here's another option for a FRAME WICKET with BENT beams... If you can order such bent beam elements, then the shape of your gate can become more interesting...

Or such a BENDED FORM can be just CUT FROM A SOLID WIDE AND THICK BOARD... Draw on the board with a pencil the rounded outlines of the future (right and left) frame - and cut it out with a circular saw. After assembling the frame– of three elements – two bent side beams and one lower straight beam.

Inside the frame - we insert a frame from a MIDDLE BEAM... two CROSSED BEAM. Fill in bottom part wicket frame plywood sheathing(we just stuff a sheet of plywood)… and fill the top part with a beautiful diagonal sheathing of slats.

Or here’s another COMPLETELY ROUNDED GATE...

Yes, I agree, this gate in the photo below is made of metal (those who looked closely at the photo noticed)... BUT... what is stopping us from making the same model of the gate in wood. Bars... slats... yes please!!! If only there were pens with a hammer... and eyes with a twinkle...

Hint for those with an idea– semicircular elements of the sheathing... we cut out a sheet of plywood with a jigsaw... we draw such “arcs are not very wide” and cut them out with a jigsaw as in labor lessons at school... And the upper arc-shaped beam... we saw out Not from thin plywood... and from thick boards, with a circular saw.

Filling of the wicket frame can be CONTINUOUS (i.e. without holes)…

For example, you can simply hammer wooden frame- boards HORIZONTALLY... (as in the photo below)...

Or nail it up with boards DIAGONALLY... now I’ll tell you step by step how such a gate is made...

  1. We make a frame for the gate - we make it from beams (it can be rectangular, it can be with a rounded top)
  2. A narrow strip is tacked onto the inner sides of the frame... tightly... tacked at an angle.
  3. And then, onto this inner narrow river, a board is placed at an angle... and it is placed on both sides of the gate - on the front and on the back. To avoid holes... we stuff the board onto slats WITH SPACE between the boards 2 times narrower than the width of the board itself... Thanks to this, the back, back padding of the board will completely cover these gaps (made by the front front board).

Or maybe a gate fill the bottom with plywood... on top - with boards butt-to-butt... and for beauty on the bottom sheet of plywood sheathing fill a thin lath - in the form of a diagonal lattice pattern. And paint it one color.

IN SHORT DON'T BE AFRAID... Do it. It’s clear in the picture... it’s simple in reality.

You can start with the most simple options... Everything will work out... and you will be proud of yourself - so skillful and skilled (oh boy, he's in great demand!!!)

And also... if you have extra money... or a good blacksmith you know... then such a FRAME wicket can be supplemented with forging elements... That is, in the sheathing of the gate, use NOT WOODEN BALOSTS... but metal picket fence - forged or welded. Here's how it was done in the photo of the gate below.

And we continue...

AND NOW IT WILL BE ABSOLUTELY COOL))))

WOODEN GATES… WITH ENTRANCE PORTAL…

Portal to another world... Oh! how beautiful and promising it sounds... But it’s really your territory... your garden... this is another world, with an atmosphere of comfort and hospitality that you and your family have created yourself.

So why not make the gate in the form of a PORTAL to happiness...

The simplest option is in the photo below. It looks good if there are tall bushes... lush trees... or a plant crawling along the portal.

And in the photo below we see how small arc-shaped wire frame thrown between the left and right support posts of the gate. The wildly blooming bindweed is specially thrown onto this iron wire pergola - and a beautiful portal strewn with flowers is created... The gate opens and, passing under the flowery arch, we feel a wonderful aroma.

Also... the entrance portal to the garden can be decorated in the form of a PERGOLA...(a pergola is columns supporting a sheathing of beams). On the “Family Heap” website I devoted several articles to these wonderful structures... see . Pergolas - how to make it yourself SIMPLE LESSONS.

This is how here - 4 beams on the left and right - hold two horizontal beams... they are covered with a sheathing of boards. The gate can be any (in the photo below we see a forged gate)

And here is another version of the PERGOLA-PORTAL...

There’s nothing terrible here either... it’s just something bad in appearance...

but in fact... when looking at the X-ray... we see what is here...

  • ... 2 powerful thick beams each hold a BEAM WITH SLOTS... there are three slots... (the beam-column holds this beam with the help of an ordinary metal foot-thrust - they are black with 4 screws in the photo)
  • There are 3 horizontal boards placed in the slot...
  • and on top of the boards there is padding and lathing with thick slats.

All! We're done!

Your son has already built something like this out of Legos... but your construction set will be larger, and that’s the whole difference.

The diagram, as you can see, is not complicated (9th grade drawing). We took a friend to help and started a grandiose project... And we already know how to make a gate (note, a frame one) (we just learned how).

And here’s another model of a gate for a dacha - with a canopy roof... it’s a little overgrown with bindweed... but through green foliage it is clear that here...

  • supporting columns... 2 on the left and 2 on the right...
  • We place a beam on each pair of columns - a left beam and a right beam.
  • On these side bars - we put the roof on... the drawing of the canopy roof will be in the form two silhouettes of the letter A, made from beams. You need 2 such beam beeches-A (back frame and front frame) that are connected to each other by a beam - the ends of which are nailed to the tops of these beeches A.

And the model of the gate from the first lesson of our article is an ordinary frame in the shape of the letter Z - and a sheathing with a board - which was then (after stuffing onto the frame) cut out with a saw in a semicircle. It turned out very tender.


Wooden gates WITH ARCHED VOX…

And here is another type of design of frame gates for the garden... This is when the SUPPORTING POSTS of our gate continue upwards - forming arched bend.

That is, we made a gate... installed support pillars... hung it on the gate (with metal loops)... and we live... And suddenly we wanted to add something... And we decide to make an ARCHED VOX...

On a thick board (the same thickness as the support pillars) we draw halves of the arc - cut them out - fasten one common arc together - and install it on the support pillars - one edge of the arc on one pillar - the second on the other pillar. Fastening the arc elements can be done using the same SLOT-PIN METHOD (which I talked about earlier in this article).

Here are more variations on the same theme...
A) gray gate - here we insert an arc between the supporting posts of the gate - and attach it to the screws. And we also cut out the plank sheet of the gate itself according to a round stencil.

B) green gate - to arched design support pillars ADDING PILLARS HOLDING THE PERGOLA... along which the green vine climbs.

Usually these fences are always made of brick(this is the most economical material) ... and then they are either plastered ... and painted in a color you like. Nearby you can hang a flashlight(very cozy and fabulous)... and there will definitely be more greenery around effect of an old Italian house.

Or the facade of such a brick arch-fence is covered with tiles imitating stone.

And also... wooden gates can be made from RAW WOOD... or rather, processed by time... and not by a carpentry machine

WICKETS FROM DRY STAND... DRY BAGS AND BRANCHES.

If you live in an area rich in windfall and dead wood, then you don’t have to go far for material for a gate.
Here are some delicate designer things you can do for your garden...
Precisely as garden gate I propose this option. For the front part of the house, such a gate, of course, will not be suitable... but for a corner of peace and quiet, for a lush overgrown corner of your hacienda, such a gate will be very useful (if this is permissible by the overall design concept of your garden).

And here is an example of a gate made of the same beams and branches.

That's all for today... That's how many wooden swing gates we did it today - in our minds... Now all that remains is to do it with our own hands - in life.

I really hope this article has given you COURAGE and the itch for CREATIVE EXPERIMENT.

Now the spirit of the COOPER sits in you. It's time to go look for beams and boards suitable for your idea... or, on the contrary, push the birth of an idea away from the materials available.

And this article was written (and in some places drawn) by a woman.

Because... only a woman can inspire a man to create beauty. What I actually did these two days for a solid 16 hours.
So go and create (and I’ll go and finally eat...)

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site

Take care of your family heaps... These are your legs and arms.
These are your ears and eyes... and a source of warmth and affection.

If did you like this article
And you want to thank the free author for this painstaking work,
then you can send any amount convenient for you
on his personal YaD wallet - 410012568032614