Conventional floor-mounted toilets have been replaced by wall-hung structures that do not take up floor space and look more modern. It is not surprising that wall-mounted models have begun to push traditional products out of the market. Installing a wall-hung structure is more difficult, takes more time and costs more, but you can save money if you consider an option such as installing a wall-hung toilet yourself.
Internal structure and operating principle of the design
If you look into design features products, it becomes clear how to install a wall-mounted toilet.
The design of the wall-mounted product is such that the only visible element is the toilet bowl
The first element is a strong steel frame, which is the base to which the visible part of the structure is attached - the toilet bowl. It is with its installation that installation begins wall hung toilet. The frame is securely fixed to the wall, and also fixed to the floor - as a result, it must withstand the weight of a heavy person.
Accordingly, to weak walls (for example, made of plasterboard) this design installation is unacceptable, since the wall simply will not hold up. The frame is equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height (400-430 mm) at which the product bowl is mounted. It is suspended from the frame using special pins - this is the main fastening of the wall-hung toilet.
Often two installations are installed simultaneously - for the toilet and for the bidet
The second element is a plastic cistern hidden in the wall. Its shape differs from the traditional one, since the container must fit into a narrow structure. It is mounted in a steel frame and insulated with a special material that prevents condensation - styrofoam. The front wall of the tank is equipped with a cutout for mounting a push-button release device. In case of repair, this cutout is also used. Almost all modern tanks require dosing of drainage: for example, the volume of water discharged can be 3 liters or 6 liters, depending on the purpose.
Flush tanks of a flat configuration are fixed inside the installation
The third element is the toilet bowl, the only visible and actively used structural part. Its shape is traditional, oval, although designer models come in both round and rectangular configurations.
The toilet bowl can be rectangular or even round - it all depends on the designer’s imagination and the client’s desires
There should be no problems with fasteners, since the product comes with a set of necessary parts and tools and installation instructions. Sometimes it is necessary to additionally purchase Teflon tape, a polyethylene outlet, a flexible hose, and studs.
Installation technology
Installing a wall-hung toilet using a special frame installed in the wall is more expensive, but more reliable and faster.
The installation must be mounted to the floor and main wall
Installation steps:
- Installation of a steel frame - through special holes it is attached to the main wall and floor using dowels. Sewer and water pipes are installed at the installation site. The frame (installation) should be checked for evenness using a level. It must be clearly parallel to the wall to which it is attached. At this stage, the installation height of the wall-hung toilet is also set - 40-43 cm. It depends on the height of the apartment owners.
The height of the toilet bowl is adjustable during installation
- Water supply to the tank. It can be flexible or rigid. Experts insist on the hard version, as it lasts much longer. While the liner is being installed, the valve in the tank is closed.
During work, the water drain from the tank should be shut off.
- Connection of the toilet to the sewerage system. The toilet outlet is inserted into the sewer outlet and the connection is secured using corrugations. After installation, it is necessary to test the system - do a test drain. To do this, the toilet bowl is temporarily completely screwed to the frame. It is then removed again, as it is usually installed at the final stage.
Many installation kits are connected to a sewer pipe without the use of corrugations
- Covering the work area with sheets of plasterboard. For the plumbing unit, choose sheets of waterproof double plasterboard, which is stronger than regular plasterboard. The panels are mounted to the frame and metal profile, which is mounted on the wall. The instructions included with the product include detailed diagram cutting the material with places to cut out the necessary holes. There can be two options for covering: for the entire wall area or just to cover the installation. In the second case, an improvised shelf will appear above the toilet bowl.
An improvised shelf above the toilet and bidet can be used for decoration or necessary things
- Partition cladding ceramic tiles or panels similar to the finishing material of the bathroom.
The wall cladding behind the toilet should be in harmony with the rest of the room’s decoration
- The final stage is the installation of a wall-mounted toilet, specifically its bowl. It is hung on a designated part of the steel frame using two pins.
Sheets of plasterboard with lining cover the installation and the flush cistern, leaving the toilet bowl and flush button
Particular attention should be paid correct installation installation, since the correct execution of subsequent work depends on it.
Installation of a toilet without installation, on a concrete base
Sometimes people are interested in how to install a wall-hung toilet without installation. Of course, installing a toilet on a frame can be replaced with a cheaper option - installing it on something you made yourself concrete base.
The flush cistern is installed in two ways: either mounted in the wall with flush buttons, or placed in a standard manner above the toilet bowl in a manufactured base.
Wall-mounted toilet mounting diagram: 1 - 2 rods mounted in the wall; 2 - monolithic concrete base; 3 - drain pipe
Let's consider the most economical option.
To install you need to prepare:
- about 40 liters of M200 concrete;
- boards for formwork;
- nuts, washers, wood screws;
- 2 threaded rods 2 cm thick (length from 50 to 80 cm);
- a piece of plastic pipe (length – 8 cm or more, diameter – 11 cm);
- drain coupling;
- silicone sealant.
Procedure:
They start by securing the rods in the main wall. In the future, the toilet bowl will be “planted” on the outlets of the rods. The result is a fairly stable structure that can withstand a weight of 400-500 kg.
The dimensions of the concrete base are calculated taking into account further dismantling of the formwork
Install the formwork. Calculate the distance between the holes for fasteners and mark the fastening points on the formwork.
Calculate the length of the rods: sum up the thickness of the recess (about 15 cm), the distance from the toilet bowl to the wall. To fix the rods in the wall, a chemical anchor is used - a special glue for concrete.
After installing the pins and installing the formwork, try on the toilet bowl. The holes for fastening must coincide with the outlets, the outlet hole must coincide with the drain of the coupling.
The concrete base will finally harden only after 2-3 weeks.
Concreting begins, supporting the drain hole with foam. The result is a monolithic block with a fixed open coupling and protruding pins.
The concrete base should include pins for the toilet bowl, a coupling outlet for the flush and space at the top for mounting a cistern.
There is no need to think about how to install a wall-mounted toilet on a prepared base - the subsequent steps are no different from installing a regular floor-standing toilet: connect the drain, seal the connections, install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts. The flush cistern is fixed above the toilet bowl.
The concrete base and drain pipe can be covered with sheets of plasterboard, leaving an opening for access to the drain tank
Installing a wall-hung toilet like this yourself will save the family budget, since expensive installation is not required.
Suspension systems are becoming increasingly popular. This is not surprising, since a wall-hung toilet takes up less space compared to floor-standing systems. In addition, they simplify the cleaning process, since there are no hard to reach places. Considering that a wall-hung toilet looks much more aesthetically pleasing, such a high interest in suspension systems. But the process of installing a wall-hung toilet often raises questions, so it is necessary to consider this process.
- Preparatory work.
- Installation installation
- Toilet installation.
Each stage does not cause any difficulties for a person who has experience working with the tool.
Preparatory work
First you need to determine the place where the toilet will stand. If redevelopment is not planned. If only the equipment is replaced, it is natural that the location will not change. Otherwise, everything depends on the future interior of the room. It is important to know which wall is located behind the future location of the toilet. This is due to the fact that it is attached only to the main wall. Plasterboard partition will not work, as it simply will not withstand the weight of the system and will break. 
When the place is determined, it is necessary to lead to it cold water and a sewer outlet for waste disposal. This must be done before installing the installation system, since after it the work will be difficult. 
When the location is determined and prepared, you can proceed to install the installation.
Installation of an installation system under a wall-hung toilet
In order to install the installation correctly, it is important to carefully approach the marking process. This stage is very important, since an incorrectly marked system will not fit correctly and, as a result, everything will have to be redone. 
Therefore, before installation, you need to carefully measure everything and determine the height of the future toilet. Experts recommend that it should not exceed one meter, but if the family is tall, this number can be increased. When the location and height are determined, markings are applied for fastenings and holes are drilled. It is preferable to use special anchor bolts rather than ordinary dowels, since the load will be static and constant and quite large. Dowels will not be able to provide sufficient reliability of fastening, so distortions of the system are possible in the future. 
Special attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening and immovability of the structure, since the system will function for many years and must be properly secured. If desired, it can be further strengthened to achieve complete immobility. 
When the installation system is installed, it must be vertically aligned in the front plane, the top plane must be horizontal, and the supporting frame itself must be securely fastened and motionless. This is the only way to ensure nice view and normal operation of the system in the future. 
Bowl installation
After all the installation work has been completed, the niche is sealed with plasterboard. It is advisable to use moisture-resistant material so that it does not swell from moisture. At the same time, we must not forget about the need for access to the drain tank, so it is necessary to provide a hatch in the finishing.
After finishing is completed, the toilet bowl is installed. This stage of work is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, since different models may require different actions. But the differences are not significant; the actions differ only in small details. 
If preliminary calculations and measurements were made correctly, then the height of the bowl will be about 40 centimeters from the floor. This value is considered optimal and most convenient for ordinary people.
If you follow the instructions and carry out the work carefully and carefully, the process of installing a wall-hung toilet will not cause any difficulties. As could be seen, complex work no, so almost anyone can install a toilet with their own hands.
Video How to install a wall-hung toilet
Setting up a GROHE installation
An excellent decoration and an extraordinary detail in the design of a bathroom would be the purchase of a wall-hung toilet. This device does not take up much space, and with the right approach to installation, it will last for quite a long time. We’ll talk about how to choose a wall-hung toilet and how to install this device.
Construction and design of a wall-hung toilet
A wall-hung toilet is a structure consisting of a bowl and a cistern, which are placed in a suspended state.
The bowl is a vessel made of porcelain. The only difference between a wall-hung toilet and a floor-mounted one is the type of fastening, which is done from the side.
Wall-hung toilets come with standard equipment. Wall-hung toilet dimensions:
- length: 50-60 cm;
- width: 30-40 cm;
- height 35-45 cm.
The wall-hung toilet system is characterized by the presence of a hidden drainage system, which consists of a flush cistern. It is located behind the partition and has the following features:
- small sizes, thickness 80-120 mm;
- the start button is located on the side;
- It has a plastic base and is equipped with a heat-insulating material that prevents the formation of condensation.
The standard tank volume is 8-10 liters. To install a cistern, you must have pipes, components, a side flush button and a flush panel.
Some toilets require the installation of a flush, which is carried out thanks to the presence of high pressure into streams of water. This system consists of a special button that is connected to the water supply system.
Wall-hung toilet photo:
Advantages of installing a wall-hung toilet
1. A wall-hung toilet allows you to save space in the bathroom, as it has a built-in tank and does not require a large distance from the wall for installation.
2. The high strength of the toilet will not allow the bowl to break even when suspended.
3. Due to the fact that the toilet is suspended, the floor under the toilet is easy to clean.
4. A variety of types will allow you to choose a toilet in relation to material and individual preferences.
5. Reviews about the wall-hung toilet characterize this device as a convenient, reliable and durable item.
6. Wall-hung toilets fully comply with sanitary and hygienic standards.
Types of wall-hung toilets
Depending on the size, wall-hung toilets are divided into:
- small, the length of which does not exceed 550 mm, are installed in small bathrooms, significantly saving space;
- medium, up to 600 mm long, are the most popular, as they are excellent for installation in any room;
- large ones, up to 700 mm, are installed if there are elderly or disabled people in the house.
In relation to the design, toilets are distinguished:
- wall type - the frame is fastened to the wall and to the floor;
- corner type - attached at a certain angle only to the wall, significantly saving space.
Depending on the shape, toilets are distinguished:
- round,
- rectangular,
- square,
- oval.
Mounting a wall-hung toilet
There are two ways to attach a wall-hung toilet:
- using a ready-made installation system,
- concrete screed.
The first option is more expensive, but less complex. The finished installation system consists of a steel frame that is attached to the wall and to the floor. To fix the frame, four points are used: two are located on the wall, and two are on the floor.
More expensive systems offer a choice of the width of the dots and their adjustment.
This installation is installed at a distance of 15-18 cm from the wall. The set includes:
- toilet bowls,
- tank drain,
- flush button panels,
- open ceramic cistern,
- installation systems.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet without a finished installation
To install the toilet yourself, without using ready-made fasteners, you must have:
- two threaded rods, the diameter of which is 2 cm and the length is 50-80 cm;
- four nuts, four washers;
- 40 liters of concrete mass grade M 200;
- several sheets of plywood;
- wood screws.
To connect a wall-hung toilet you need:
- drain rectangular coupling;
- plastic sewer pipe diameter 1.10 cm;
- silicone sealant.
Instructions for implementation preparatory work before installing a wall-hung toilet:
1. Begin installation work by installing the drain coupling. This process will help determine the height of the toilet.
2. If the height is too high, the coupling may be cut off. If the height is insufficient, a section of sewer pipe is added.
3. Measure the distance of the panels for constructing the formwork. Increase the distance by a few centimeters for extra space.
4. Using a tape measure, you should measure the interval between the place where the fasteners are attached. The standard distance is 20 cm.
5. After taking measurements, transfer the data to plywood sheets, for the manufacture of formwork panels. Chipboard, plywood or other boards are suitable as materials for the shield.
6. Check again that the measurements taken are correct.
7. Cut off the threaded rods. The length of the rods is the distance between the end point of penetration into the wall, the interval between the wall and the toilet, the installation length of the toilet and the end for screwing on the nuts.
8. There are two ways to attach the rods:
- wall mounting, which is carried out with a washer and a nut m 20, the simplicity and versatility of this method makes it more popular, in order to attach the rod you just need to drill a hole in the wall, put on the washer and tighten the nut, this method is suitable for any walls;
- in the absence of access to outside walls, secure the rod with glue or a special means, such as a “chemical anchor”, Drill a hole in the wall, the minimum length of which is 14 cm, clean it of dust, fill it with glue and install the rod, this method is suitable for walls made of concrete, brick, foam blocks, wood,
9. After the formwork is assembled, a structure consisting of three panels is obtained, which has holes for installing rods.
Tip: Before fixing the formwork panels, the coupling outlet should be closed with a plastic bag to prevent concrete and dirt from entering the drainage system.
10. The correct assembly of wooden panels is checked by the building level. To make the formwork more stable, install the rods and tighten the nuts.
11. Try on the toilet bowl, installing it in its future location after completing the formwork. If there are any shortcomings, it is not too late to correct them.
Tip: In order to ensure that after pouring the formwork with concrete there is still space for connecting the toilet, you should attach a small rectangular piece of foam plastic to the rod.
12. After completing the preparatory work, begin pouring concrete. To cook concrete mortar for one part cement, take two parts sand, three parts crushed stone and a seventh part water.
Tip: To make the concrete lay easily on the surface, it is recommended to add a little liquid soap to the water.
13. To lay concrete, use a trowel and place it in small portions. Gradually leveling the surface.
14. The rods for installing the toilet should also be covered with polyethylene to prevent concrete from getting on them.
15. To compact the concrete, use a long rod, which gradually pierces the poured surface, paying attention to the corner places.
16. After pouring the formwork, 7-10 days must pass before it is removed.
17. To connect the cistern, use flexible PVC corrugation. Insert it into the toilet hole and secure it with sealant.
18. Secure the pipe in this position and leave for 24 hours for the silicone to dry completely.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet
1. To reliably seal the joint between the toilet bowl and the rubber ring, apply silicone around the entire perimeter of these devices.
2. Place the toilet on the rods and tighten the nuts.
3. Wait 12 hours for the sealant to cure.
4. Connect the toilet to the sewer drain.
5. Install the toilet lid.
6. To produce finishing finishing works for a concrete base, use any moisture-resistant materials.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation
Most frames for wall-hung toilets allow height adjustment. Before installation, you should take measurements and make markings. Before installation, it is recommended to study the instructions, which usually indicate the interval between cistern and the floor. The average value of this distance is one meter.
Before we start installation work, take care of the sewerage and water pipe. The frame is fastened using anchor bolts. They are able to fix it in one position and ensure the immobility of the structure.
When installing the frame on a wooden floor, you should use the most powerful wood screws.
Before fixing the installation, you should once again measure the evenness of the structure. Use a regular level to level the frame. Measure front, back, top and bottom. To secure the correct settings, use pins and rods that can temporarily attach the frame to the wall.
The height of the bowl is selected in accordance with the individual parameters of the residents. The average height that is optimal for the average adult is 400 mm.
To connect the toilet, use a flexible hose; to connect to the water supply, use a metal hose to ensure the reliability and durability of the connection.
Tip: Close the valve on the cistern while connecting the toilet to the water supply.
For exterior finishing use any materials that must be waterproof.
Do not block access to the drain tank in order to carry out maintenance or repair work at any time.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet video:
Floor-standing toilets have been out of competition for a long time, but everything is changing. Owners modern apartments More and more people are choosing hanging models. This pleasure is not cheap, but this is practically the only drawback of this solution. But among the advantages of its design great design and ease of maintenance.
It is important that the installation of a wall-hung toilet is carried out in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how and in what sequence the work is carried out, what devices will be needed to attach the bowl. Taking into account our recommendations, you can do everything yourself or supervise the actions of plumbers.
Home handyman can handle installation with ease wall model, if he understands distinctive features its designs.
The visible element of such a plumbing fixture is the toilet bowl itself. Its installation on the wall is carried out in two ways: using an installation and on a concrete base. In our article we will look at both options.
A wall-hung toilet model is more expensive than a regular one floor option, but you can reduce costs if you install the product yourself
Strong and weaknesses hanging type plumbing fixtures are listed, which describes in detail the varieties and design specifics, and provides guidelines for choosing the optimal model for you personally.
The design of a wall-mounted plumbing fixture can be roughly divided into three main elements, which will be discussed further.
Reliable steel frame (module)
The frame is the main element of the entire structure, which is attached to the floor and wall of the bathroom. It is the frame that supports the cistern and bowl. The quality of subsequent operation of the product depends on its reliability. After putting the toilet into operation, the structure will need to have a sufficient margin of strength to support the weight of an adult.
To secure the frame, you must have a solid base. Plasterboard walls cannot be considered in this capacity. The frame is equipped with a mechanism that allows you to vary the installation height of the toilet bowl in the range of 40-43 cm. To securely fasten the bowl, manufacturers recommend using strong pins made of steel.
In this photo, all three elements of the toilet design are clearly visible: a light blue frame, a gray-blue plastic tank with a flush button and a white bowl
Best models support frames for hanging plumbing are listed, which we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.
Hidden cistern
The hidden fastening of this element, according to supporters of the wall model, is considered one of the advantages of the design. The material for its manufacture is very durable plastic. To prevent condensation from accumulating on the surface, the plastic is treated with styrene.
The tank has a flat shape, distinguished by a technological cutout on one side. This cutout is necessary for the drain key device. This hole has another purpose: it allows you to remove the drain tank fittings when performing repair work.
Another feature of hanging tanks is the economical drainage system that such a model can be equipped with. Depending on the need, the drain dose can be 3 or 6 liters.
The bowl is a visible structural element
The bowl is chosen, as a rule, based on the personal preferences of the users. It is in plain sight and must correspond to the overall interior of the room. In addition, it should be easy to use.
It is the toilet bowl, as a visible structural element, that should fit organically into the interior of the room: it can even have a square shape
Most buyers prefer an oval-shaped product. Although there are round, rectangular and even square models on sale.
Fastening elements are part of the selected model and are included in its configuration. There is no need to purchase additional hardware for a wall-hung toilet. In addition, among the mounted models there are electronic controls and numerous hygienic functions.
Intelligent types of plumbing fixtures with retractable nozzles for washing and drying, deodorizing and other actions need to be connected to a power supply. Their installation is complicated by connecting the power line and setting up the system:
Image gallery
These long steel pins, running through the holes in the frame and attached to the wall, are needed to hold the toilet bowl securely in place.
Connecting the necessary communications
First of all, we connect the sewer. For this connection, a black tap is used, which, as a rule, is included in the installation package. One end of this outlet is adjusted to the sewer pipe, and its other end is attached to the frame with special clips.
Water pipes should be located to the right or left of the module. The pipe should be connected to the structure using the threaded connection already present in it. To connect the water supply it is better to use copper or polypropylene pipes, and make the connection detachable.
Cold water can also be supplied to the tank using flexible hoses. Such hoses are more profitable in terms of price, but their fragility should be taken into account. And when replacing failed hoses, you will have to carry out expensive repairs, so the option with pipes is still preferable.
Don't forget to check how securely the drain container is connected to the water supply system. For this purpose, open the water supply tap. It is located inside the drain tank. After filling the container, all possible leaks are eliminated. This can be done without draining the water.
If, during the process of checking the correct connection of the toilet to the sewer or water supply system, leaks are identified, they should be carefully repaired
The connection to the sewer drain should also be checked. To do this, put a toilet bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without finally securing the structure. After which the bowl is removed again and all identified leaks, if any, are eliminated.
Finishing work
At the next stage you have to sew up the niche using moisture resistant sheet drywall, and then carry out finishing work. Please note that we need exactly moisture resistant drywall, because the usual one will quickly deteriorate under the influence of condensation.
To perform finishing work when installing a wall-hung toilet with an installation, moisture-resistant plasterboard is used, which can be used in rooms with high humidity without reducing its quality
To cut drywall, you need to use a template, which should be included with the installation. It will allow you to correctly cut all the necessary mounting holes without damaging the material.
After installing the moisture-resistant sheet on its surface, you can fix finishing material. Ceramic tiles are most often used to decorate a bathroom.
Final installation steps
You can begin installing the visible part of the wall-hung toilet only after the tile adhesive has thoroughly dried.
The procedure for installing a toilet bowl:
- the drainage pipe must protrude 50 mm beyond the wall surface: it must be adjusted to this size;
- do the same with the pipe that leads to the sewer drain;
- both pipes are installed in the places intended for them;
- a large gasket, similar in shape to a truncated pyramid, is put on the studs that were fixed in advance, as well as on the pipes;
- the bowl is put on the studs and the pipes are attached to it;
- put rubber gaskets and plastic inserts in their places;
- put on and tighten the fastening nuts;
- The protruding parts of the rubber gasket are carefully trimmed.
Now you can drain the water from the tank, thereby checking the operation sewer drain. The installation height of the wall-hung toilet bowl relative to the floor can be adjusted by changing the position of the studs and retractable pins that are used to secure this element. It must correspond to the height of the toilet visitors.
The installation height of the bowl can be adjusted in the range of 40-43 cm, but the standard distance is 40 cm from the floor surface
The standard height is 40 cm, measured from the floor surface to the top edge of the bowl.
Attaching the flush key
The installation process is completed by installing the drain key. It is included in the basic package and can be mechanical or pneumatic. Usually this procedure does not cause any problems, since all the provided connections should already be brought to the surface of the wall.
There are special pins for a mechanical key, and tubes for a pneumatic key. All that remains is to install this element in its intended place and adjust its position. That's it: the toilet can be used.
Suspended model on a concrete base
A steel frame is expensive. In principle, you can do without it by building a concrete pedestal with your own hands, which will serve as a reliable foundation for the wall-hung toilet. This option is considered the most economical.
The diagram of the model on a concrete base includes: 1 – two rods for fixing the toilet bowl, mounted into the wall; 2 – concrete base; 3 – pipe for draining into the sewer
With this installation method, the drain container can either be mounted into the wall, with the drain button located outside, or placed above the bowl of the plumbing fixture.
Pre-installation procedure
Let's consider the option that is considered the least expensive. Let's prepare everything you need for work:
- concrete M200 - approximately 40 liters;
- boards for making formwork;
- threaded rods (length 50-80 cm, thickness 2 cm) – 2 pieces;
- washers, nuts, screws for woodworking;
- plastic pipe (diameter 11 cm, length 8 cm);
- drain coupling;
- foam;
- silicone sealant.
I think it’s worth repeating that the wall we have to work with must be permanent.
Step-by-step installation process
We fix the rods in the main wall, onto the outlets of which the toilet bowl will then be placed. Let us remind you that we should get a stable and reliable design, capable of supporting a weight of 400 kg.
The next step is to install the drain coupling. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the toilet in order to cut the coupling to the appropriate length.
Now we need to install the formwork. In order to mark fastening points on the formwork, you should determine the distance between the holes intended for fastening.
To calculate the length of the rods, you need to add up the thickness of the recess, which is approximately 15 cm, and the distance from the wall to the toilet bowl. To fix the rods in the wall, concrete adhesive is used - a chemical anchor.
This is what the structure looks like ready for the concreting process: the place where the drain will be connected to the toilet bowl is covered with foam plastic
When the formwork is installed and the installation of the pins is completed, the bowl should be installed in the place intended for it. Make sure that the mounting holes match the outlets, and the outlet hole corresponds to the coupling drain.
The next step is concreting. This must be done by installing foam plastic in the place where the drain hole will be. Remember that the concrete will finally harden only after 28 days.
After this, you can remove the formwork and make sure that in front of us there is a monolithic concrete block with pins coming out of it and an open, fixed coupling. A toilet is mounted to the front of the block, and a tank is placed on the base itself.
This is exactly what a wall-hung toilet will look like after installing the bowl, and its tank will be installed on a concrete base
The procedure for installing a bowl to a concrete base is no different from installing a floor-standing toilet. You need to install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts, connect and seal the drain. Lastly, a drain tank is placed on the concrete base.
As you can see, this installation method hanging model much cheaper and easier than installation work. But, to be honest, the result is not much different from a floor-standing toilet.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The information you just read will be perceived much better if you supplement it with a video. We invite you to watch the installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation filmed on video.
The range of plumbing fixtures is expanding: toilets are being improved, updated, and become more and more attractive. But modern models, as a rule, are more expensive than traditional ones.
Tell us about how you installed a wall-hung toilet in your house/apartment. It is possible that you know technological nuances, which will be useful to site visitors. Please write comments, post photos, share your impressions and ask questions in the block below.
By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be mounted traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With a solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Children's | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Set for work
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
If a toilet is installed on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
Removing the old toilet
First step. Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or an open-end wrench. Press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer.
In older buildings, drains are usually secured using cement coating. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, it is necessary to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
Getting ready for installation
The base for installing the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and does not have differences in level, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- If the floor is tiled and is not level, we install the toilet using choppers. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, the choppers are driven into them at a level, and then the toilet is attached to the choppers using screws;
- if it is planned to replace the tiles, dismantle the old cladding and fill in a new screed if the old one has differences in level;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
Installation procedure for a regular toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet
Prices for components for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:
If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:
Useful advice! If the connection of the toilet bowl to the drain pipe is made using corrugation, in most cases sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms are usually sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (assembly procedure for different models may vary slightly).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.
Modern version installations. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
We install a wall-mounted toilet on the installation
Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is installation of the frame
We install a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- Place the drain button at approximately a meter distance from the floor;
- between the fastening points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- We hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between the cistern and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost all modern tank models allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it!
The best way to connect is to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. We clarify these points separately and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
- screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet (included in the kit);
- We close the drain holes with plugs (also included in the kit) so that they do not become clogged with dust and debris;
- We make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will be small in size and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Useful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be done in reverse order, whatever is more convenient for you. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be covered with a layer of silicone sealant(you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the installation order of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure the plumbing product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. The installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installing a wall-mounted toilet model.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article - and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Good luck!
Video - DIY toilet installation