The other day, the famous karate master Evgeny Galitsyn published on his Facebook page interesting article about makiwara. Evgeniy Borisovich’s reasoning aroused keen interest among the Budo audience; many readers ask questions and, not without reason, ask the author when his book will be published. We published several articles by Galitsyn and could not ignore the material about makiwara. The article is published without changes.
Evgeny Galitsyn: "Makiwara... Makiwara??? Makiwara!!!"
Makiwara is an integral, almost cult training tool in every more or less serious karate school. Everyone who has come into contact with karate in one way or another has heard about this.
But for some reason, there is not much information about what, apart from general words about “stuffing shock parts,” it is intended for, how to make it yourself and how to use it correctly.
Previously, makiwara in karate was understood as a certain, I will call it “traditional” version - a rather thick board, fixedly fixed at one (lower) end and installed vertically, usually up to the level of the shoulder or chin, the upper end of which should be wrapped in a coarse rice rope straw or simply a tied sheaf of straw (actually a “makiwara”), which became thinner and thinner in the process of working on it, and gradually the blows were applied to the bare board. (I express my gratitude to Gorbunov I-san for the detailed historical information!)
Then, gradually, the rope or sheaf began to be replaced with other materials - leather, rolled tarpaulin, rubber, polyurethane, etc., but " general design" remained unchanged: the term makiwara usually meant a special elastic board of varying thickness dug into the ground (or mounted into the floor) with a dedicated work area to strike at its very top.
Nowadays, quite a lot of the most interesting ones are offered for consideration (and especially for purchase). various options makivar: both the “traditional” vertical and its variety - horizontal, and modern wall-mounted, made on the basis car tire, and a compact metal multi-link with a variable, replaceable tension system, requiring for its manufacture industrial equipment, as well as stretched makiwaras, portable portable ones, even designer makiwaras - Fedorishen’s makiwara, Shilov’s makiwara, etc., etc.
I will not evaluate them - let everyone do this for themselves, I will talk about how best and how to use makiwara correctly.
If you look at the most common photos of makiwaras on the Internet, as well as at some videos of masters working on their “traditional” makiwaras, then, as a rule, we see a rather thick wooden board up to 20 cm wide and about 4-6 cm thick, and some even have a thick beam 10-15 cm thick, wrapped in the upper part with a rough rope or covered with a modern combined “strike” (the term is not mine, taken from a parallel article Volodya Volovikova).
Such makiwaras do exist, but they are suitable only for a few who have spent years preparing their limbs to work on such a “unit.” But comments to such photos and videos, in which you read that someone is doing 300-500 blows with each hand on such a makiwara, and every day, raise a lot of questions...
If we approach the conversation about working with the makiwara seriously, then we must start with the fact that the makiwara should be selected by each person individually, taking into account his current preparedness and his growth, and at the same time he must remember that the makiwara should be different at different stages of preparation .
Without pretending to present the final truth and describe all existing options, I will simply remind you of what and how our first TEACHERS taught us (back in the USSR!), and what we taught and continue to teach, constantly rethinking the experience of our training.
I would also like to warn you that I did not set out to give a detailed and detailed description methods of working with different “student” makiwaras and at each stage, since this is difficult, if not impossible, in the “correspondence version”.
The purpose of the article is, first of all, to warn our karate youth against incorrect recommendations, conclusions and erroneous approaches to training that can be made based on what they see on the Internet, to help them maintain their own health, and to pay attention to the main important components of working on makiwara, often by for one reason or another remain unattended.
Starting work on any makiwara must be preceded by special preparatory exercises to strengthen the muscles and ligaments of the hand, wrist, forearm, etc. These are push-ups on the fists and fingers, and various jumps on the fists and the back of the hand while lying down, and exercises with weights (tisi), and exercises on the Sotsky simulator, etc.
As a rule, in parallel with general physical training and physical training, there is an initial study of technology. And only when the student can more or less correctly perform the technique of striking “in the air” does work begin on accuracy, on speed (quickness) and strength, and on the actual placement of the strike.
Subject to availability necessary equipment and equipment, the training process actively includes work on makivara, bags, pears, paws, rings, etc.) Thus. in the process of now these specialized training, further strengthening and preparation of muscles, ligaments, and bones for shock loads occurs, which is inaccessible when “working through the air”, but is extremely necessary for performing accurate strikes at full force on various surfaces.
It's no secret that working on each of the listed equipment has its own method of use for effective training. I will limit myself to description proper operation only on traditional makiwara.
There is an opinion that makiwara is intended only for stuffing and hardening the striking parts as a basis for striking. But it is not emphasized that for each stage of training and hardening, different makiwara of variable hardness are selected, and at each stage a specific working method is used.
Standard makiwaras, as a rule, are made from boards of durable wood of equal (the same along the entire length) or variable (uniformly or in a special way decreasing towards the top) thickness and width, and, accordingly, different degrees of elasticity and rigidity.
I want to say right away: the widespread recommendation on the Internet for working with a makiwara, supposedly coming from oriental masters, is “don’t be smart, come up and hit” - this is the most direct and shortest path to abrasions and skin damage, bruises of the periosteum, bursitis, traumatic arthrosis and immobility of the fingers and brushes.
In fact, makiwara training should be a long, constant, gradual, strictly controlled and continuous process of "growing beautiful flower", in the role of which is our own physical and psychological health.
Makivara can be roughly divided into Speed (student) and Power (workshop).
The thickness of the upper part of high-speed makivaras is different and is selected in accordance with the tasks:
- for primary hardening of leather;
- to compact subcutaneous tissue, strengthen and harden the periosteum;
- to strengthen the capsule of the impact surface of the joints;
- to strengthen the ligaments of the metacarpus, hand, wrist, elbow and shoulder joints.
Accordingly, the thickness of the upper part of the makiwara under the “strike” varies from 5 mm to 15 mm. Such a “high-speed” makiwara, under the influence of an impact, should deviate from the vertical by a distance of 30 cm to 10-15 cm...
When working with such makiwaras, relaxed blows are used to varying (gradually increasing) depths with a correctly “formed”, but not tense, striking part of the hand.
And they begin work on high-speed makiwaras with almost “non-contact” precision training, striking a plasticine ball on the striker of the makiwara (as a prerequisite for preventing damage to the integrity of the skin) and the primary ability to dose the required force to perform a strike to different depths.
Then the ball is removed and work begins with blows to tighten the skin - precise blows with a depth of 1-2 cm are applied, then - to strengthen the periosteum - blows with a depth of 4-5 cm, then - to strengthen the joint capsules - blows with a depth of 5 to 10 - 15 cm...
This sequence of work has, on the one hand, first of all the formation of psychological readiness to hit a hard object, gradually strengthening the striking surfaces, but the main thing is to avoid the formation of a “subconscious brake” that inevitably arises due to skin abrasions, bruises and even the first bursitis from impacts.
On the other hand, it allows you to approach your “speed barrier” as late as possible.
Let me emphasize once again that high-speed makiwaras are intended (along with hardening of the striking parts) primarily for the late appearance of the “speed barrier” and to prevent the “internal subconscious “brakes” that inevitably arise due to the fear of getting bruises and sprains, especially at the initial stages of work.
After working on “high-speed” makiwaras, they move on to working on “power” ones.
Power makiwaras are designed:
-first of all, to adjust the alignment of the various bones of the body to transfer maximum force to the striking part and their harmonious interaction when “pushing” the resistance of the makiwara;
- to develop the explosive power of the muscle groups involved in the strike.
- to “feel” the inclusion of exactly the right muscle groups in performing a strike in certain operating modes;
- to train “body separation” as an important prerequisite for powerful strikes to a given depth. (Whoever is “in the know” knows that when working on the head and torso, especially specifically on specific internal organs, blows of different depths and directions of impulse transmission, etc. are used for various consequences). Sometimes, to control this on a makiwara, an additional control pendulum is used as an indicator of a sufficient penetration depth.
The thickness of such power makivaras is from 5-6 cm at the bottom to 1.5-2 cm at the top. The thickness of the board is “reduced” or reduced from the maximum at the bottom to the required value at the top in a specific way, always with back side boards, which allows you not to lose strength as rigidity decreases. The individual height of a power makiwara is also approximately to the level of the chin or shoulder. The number of “working zones” or “strikes” on it - depending on the purpose of a particular makiwara - is from one to 3-5...
In addition to observing the sequence of changing makivars, important working conditions are:
- Proper Use a “formed” but not tense fist, a straight position of the wrist, ensuring the ability to meet the target at any part of the impact trajectory and correctly and safely transfer the force;
Training in “accuracy” and timely rotation of the fist before hitting the “fire striker” as a condition for protecting against abrasions. To accelerate the formation of accuracy, I suggest that fans of “extreme” training use hitting a target that causes pain when making mistakes, for example, on the bottom tin can or a small saucepan, sized so that a fist fits freely into it, leaving a space of about 5 mm on the sides. In such work, if you make a mistake with the exact centering of the blow, it will be very painful, and pain teaches you better and faster than any words.
Warm-up and preparation of the striking part and surrounding joints, and a mandatory “cool-down” after finishing work.
It is necessary to observe not only the sequence of work on makiwaras of various thicknesses, but also not to exceed the permissible frequency of work per week for different types blows (whip, force, ramming..) and maintaining optimal breaks to recover from stress on the impact surfaces, joints and ligaments - work out each impact part no more than 2 times a week.
When vigorously working on power “workshop” makivara, it makes sense to use pharmaceutical preparations (rubbins) and special thermal procedures during the first 2 hours after impact work, as well as adhere to proper nutrition.
I repeat: you can move on to practicing pulsed strikes on power makiwara only after a long preliminary work on high-speed makivars, which ensured sufficient preparation of the entire joint-ligamentous and musculoskeletal system for heavy loads, and appropriate preparation of the nerves, ligaments and muscles involved in the work.
The criterion for the possibility of starting the transition to a more rigid makiwara can be the subjective absence of pain in the bones and ligaments both when working on makiwara and after training, with a feeling of some “fullness” and “warm heaviness” in the striking parts after training.
The number of strong blows should not exceed 30-50 for each shock part, and be repeated no more than 2 times a week. During one training session, it is advisable to “process” no more than 3 shock parts.
Other Mandatory points that must be observed when working on makiwaras:
The first requirement is that working with makiwara is a logical continuation and consolidation of Kihon. There should be no distortion of previously studied correct technique. This is achieved both by selecting the correct starting positions and choosing a location in front of the makiwara, as well as by isolated work on individual phases of the strikes.
The second requirement is that the kicks must be coordinated with breathing, and the work of the back leg must be coordinated with the correct moment of the end of the rotation of the hips and the option of tensing the core muscles.
Compliance with the requirements of "body separation" to neutralize the "reverse blow" by appropriate relaxation and "alignment" of the body, neck and shoulders, especially in the case of the so-called ramming and "sticking" blow, positioning the body in accordance with the anatomical "rays of force".
Working out different types of activation of the core muscles when working on the makiwara (straight, cross, double, etc.) with an impulse blow;
Remember about the peculiarities of the work of the hips and legs when practicing the “lash” type strike, and avoid “dissipation of force” due to the latissimus dorsi muscles.
Correct work of the knee of the front leg is a condition for ensuring that “the blow does not go to the floor”, moments of its relaxation and activation to maintain stability and balance.
The peculiarity of the work of the knee of the hind leg in the “hip-impulse” for the coordination of rotational and translational movements.
Work on makivaras is performed first with single strikes from a place, then with a significant movement of the central point, with various movements, in combination with blocks and kicks, etc.
The specifics of such work are beyond the scope of this article.
These are just some of the essential points common to everyone. Details, nuances, accents and corrections in each individual case are made by the coach (teacher) during the training.
Unfortunately, most people who come to karate training do not have developed abilities kinesthetic self-control, and cannot independently determine the reasons for incorrect performance. Sometimes someone can be helped in this by using video recording with subsequent analysis, and comparison with videos of masters, etc.
But the best (and safest! option) is to train under the “supervision” of a teacher or a good trainer who can not only teach, but also help to learn.
Once upon a time in my article “Dans, belts, ranks. and who needs all this” (it is still available on the Internet) I wrote:
Every student needs to remember:
- No teacher, no matter how “great” and famous he may be, can teach anyone by force. You can only “train” by force, and only if the trainee has the necessary prerequisites.
A teacher can only help someone learn who really wants it and is ready to work.
A good teacher will help you choose the most effective and suitable training methods only for this student, teach you to analyze successes and reasons for failures, and thereby speed up the learning process and help develop strengths student and eliminate his weaknesses.
And only very good teacher can do all this together, but he can also find words that will ignite in the student’s soul an unquenchable fire of striving for perfection, instill in him unshakable confidence and give him the strength to overcome any obstacles on his Path, maintaining and even improving his health.” .
I still sincerely wish everyone to meet on their life path and the Way of Martial Arts such a good teacher.
Article outline:
- elasticity is the main quality of makiwara
- design solutions that provide elasticity
- detailed consideration of the 2 main design principles for ensuring the elasticity of the makiwara:
- elastic striker
- specific implementation options constructive solutions both options
- elastic striker
- measure of the required elasticity of a structure
- attachment methods for practicing various techniques
- preferred design options
- makiwara “Tuning Fork” designed by Shilov (specially developed materials that have undergone long-term testing, objective assessment of impact force, replaceable strikers, adjustment of the rigidity and elasticity of the makiwara, options for mounting on a horizontal and vertical surface)
Elasticity is the main quality of makiwara
Makivars come in the most various designs, but the fundamental element of every “real” makiwara is the spring element - the firing pin, which is struck. This condition is mandatory and indisputable.
All makiwaras, which are widely available on sale and represent a wall pillow with very relative springing properties, as well as protectors in the form of a pillow that a partner must hold, are not makiwaras in the strict sense of the word. Although if you call any device intended for striking it a makiwara, then of course... However, then bags, pears, paws, etc. should also be called makiwara.
The firing pin must be deformed upon impact, providing elastic resistance to the striking surface. This is what provides all the variety of aspects that can be worked out simultaneously only on this unique equipment. The vast majority of other projectiles can only provide selective (selective) development of certain qualities of the blow or changes in the properties of the impact link (the anatomical structure that is struck).
If the makiwara does not have elastic properties, then it is only suitable for stuffing and hardening striking surfaces, and this is a very small range of problems that can be solved with the help of training on the makiwara.
Design solutions for resilience
The problem of ensuring the elasticity of the makiwara can be solved in two main ways, which can be used both separately from each other and in combination:
- The element itself that is struck can be elastic
- elasticity can be created by a spring system that holds a relatively inelastic firing pin in a stable position
A detailed examination of the 2 main design principles for ensuring the elasticity of the makiwara
Depending on which of the two methods listed above solves the issue of elasticity, the design of the makiwara depends.
Elastic striker
The springing properties of the striker are ensured by the material from which it is made, as well as its geometry.
Materials can be very diverse:
- resilient wood
- rubber
- plastic
- metal
In the case of a rubber striker, elasticity is ensured, first of all, by the very properties of the material. When using plastic and wood, the geometry of the striker becomes an important, or rather, the main point that ensures the elasticity of the makiwara. What this looks like will be described below in the section with descriptions of specific design options.
It is important to note that often, to enhance the elastic properties of the striker, combined designs of the latter are used. Those. a relatively hard firing pin, which provides elasticity only due to its geometry (wood), is covered with an elastic material (rubber).
The elastic properties of strikers made of solid materials (wood, plastic, metal) can be ensured not only by the geometry as such, but also by the design of the striker itself. For example, a multi-layer board glued like plywood is used, which, with a smaller thickness, can have greater strength and elasticity than a solid board. Etc.
Spring system providing elasticity of the striker
A spring system is a structure that, due to its shock-absorbing properties, is capable of providing resistance to the impact link throughout the entire impact and returning the striker to its original position immediately after the impact of the impact surface on it ceases.
Designs and methods for implementing this idea exist and do not yet exist, but an incredible number may exist. Here human genius can limit itself to nothing...
They are used as objects adapted for this purpose with the necessary properties from various machines, units, etc. (shock absorbers, springs, springs, various items with elastic properties), and specially designed structures, which, in essence, are the same shock absorbers, leaf springs and springs.
They can be divided into 2 groups:
- being a direct continuation of the striker; they are attached to the latter in various ways along its axis and, being fixed in a fixed base; It is they who provide the springiness of the relatively rigid and inelastic striker;
- being quite independent design, which is not a continuation of the striker, but provides resistance to the impact link throughout the impact and brings the striker to its original position immediately after the impact of the impact surface on it ceases
See below for what it looks like.
Specific options for implementing design solutions for both options
Here I will look at the most common, frequently used and simple options, because in fact, you can improvise on the topic of design, having knowledge of the fundamental principles of makiwara design that I described above, ad infinitum.
Elastic striker
fixedly fixed structure made of elastic material (rubber):
- a thick piece of micropore (“foam rubber”) or other material fixed to a stationary surface; the material must be strongly, but with resistance, deformed (crumpled) upon impact, returning after it to its original state
- structure made of elastic material (rubber) in the form of a ring fixed to a stationary surface; the structure must be strongly, but with resistance, deformed (crinkled) upon impact, returning after it to its original state (car tire, a piece of coating from a rubberized shaft used on conveyors or other mechanisms in production); a special platform can be made in the place where the blow is struck, although this is not necessary; This design is good because it allows you to practice strikes at different (small) angles without changing your body position.
a fixed, rigid firing pin that has elastic properties due to its geometry and design (material: wood, plastic, metal):
- a board made of elastic wood, a sheet of plastic, a plate of elastic metal, a typesetting plate of one or more materials, fixed in a similar way; blows can be delivered only on 2 surfaces, and to practice techniques whose trajectory is different from a straight line, it is necessary to significantly change the position of the body in relation to the makiwara;
Spring system providing elasticity of the striker
a system that is a direct continuation of the striker (the striker is attached to a fixed spring system with high spring characteristics, which is its continuation):
- car spring
- elastic metal plate
- laminated wood panel
- etc.
a system that provides springiness to a relatively inelastic striker:
A measure of the required elasticity of a structure
The elasticity of the entire structure must be such as to ensure that the striker deviates from its original position by approximately 10 - 20 cm, guaranteeing the structural integrity of the projectile (i.e. it will not break with such a deviation). The latter can be ensured by special limiters that do not allow the striker to deviate over a greater distance.
10 - 20 cm is exactly the “depth” to which you need to “stick” your hand into the enemy to ensure guaranteed defeat internal organs(with less penetration, you can simply leave a bruise on the contact surface).
However, I will not delve into the issues of working on a makiwara. Here I analyze only the design of the projectile and its characteristics.
Attachment methods for practicing various techniques
This is paradoxical, but for many it is a revelation that with the makiwara you can practice absolutely the entire range of strikes.
Many, but not all, understand that to practice side kicks you need to stand at an angle to the makiwara. But almost no one realizes that the makiwara can be installed not only vertically, but also horizontally, and even at an angle.
One thing is important - the striker of the makiwara must resist the impact surface along the axis of the impact, but with a force exactly opposite in vector to the force of the impact.
Preferred design options
Specific preferences in the design of a makiwara should objectively be formed based on the properties possessed by a projectile of one or another modification.
Necessary properties (not in order or importance - just in a row):
- necessary and sufficient amplitude of deflection of the striker from the initial state
- objective possibility of assessing the impact force by the deflection of the striker
- strength
- elasticity and springiness
- possibility of changing and adjusting rigidity, elasticity and springiness
- convenience (the ability to stand at the required angles in relation to the makiwara)
These are important criteria for working on the makiwara and assessing progress.
There are criteria that are less significant, but desirable:
- Possibility of quick installation and dismantling
- Possibility of mounting at different angles and in different planes
- possibility of objective measurement of resistance force (dynamometer)
- hit counter (generally a prank, but useful)
- etc. etc.
You can listen to this and other reviews from users of the “Shilova Tuning Fork” makivara by clicking on the link below
Official website Makiwara "Shilova's Tuning Fork"
www.makiwara.ru
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Makivara BADYUKA-SHILOVA (MBSH)
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I watched a great video about working on a makiwara:
When we were still studying in cadet corps, did there Makiwara without digging into the ground, and intricate carpentry work with the removal of the board under the wedge. It was attached to the wall above floor level, and you could put your leading leg under it. It turned out to be an excellent projectile! Yes, and SiFu praised him. If anyone wants to build something like this at home, here is a recipe that is suitable for almost any wall except plasterboard:
Materials you will need:
- pine board 2.5 cm thick, 10-12 cm wide, and 360 cm long;
- wood screws 10 cm long - 8 pieces, and 2 cm long - 4 pieces;
- dowels for attaching to the wall - 8 pieces (which ones to choose depends on the wall material);
- a piece of thick (~5 mm) leather ~30 cm long and 10-12 cm wide;
- wood glue (for example, PVA).
Tools needed: wood saw, drill with long drill on wood and with a drill for your wall for dowels and bits for screws, as well as a pair of clamps (although you can do without them).
We saw board into 6 pieces:
- one piece - 90 cm (it will be pressed against the wall);
- three pieces of 30 cm;
- one piece - 60 cm ( bottom part"wedge");
- one piece - 120 cm (front board, main working board).
We also apply glue to the back side of this board, but from the bottom, and place a 60 cm long board on it, aligning the ends along the bottom edge. We tighten it with a clamp, or press it with some kind of weight for the time specified in the instructions for your glue. This we made a “wedge” for makiwara.
Now we need mark boards for screws and fastenings to the wall:
The holes are in two rows, in checkerboard pattern. Red marks the holes for the dowels with which the makiwara will be attached to the wall, and black marks the holes for the screws that tighten the structure itself. One long screw should go through four layers, approximately like in the picture:
The easiest way to mark is by folding 4 layers and drilling through. Separately 4 layers closest to the wall, and separately 4 layers on the front side. It is clear that the drill should be a) long enough, and b) slightly smaller in diameter than the screws. The holes in the top 4, bottom 4 and back boards must NOT overlap each other!
Attention! If someone hopes to screw eight ten-centimeter screws into wood to their full length without pre-drilling, I would call this decision a little presumptuous. 😉
Then choose a place on the wall so that there is at least half a meter on the left and right free space for moving. The height depends on your height and the height of your working position ( NOT on straight legs!) — leather target should be located at arm's length horizontally.
Having decided on a place, mark the wall for dowels through the holes in the back board, drill, and firmly screw it on this board. You put it on it and tighten with screws three layers in fragments 30 cm long. Apply a “wedge” to them, and also tighten with screws. If you are not interested in futile attempts to develop grip strength in an extremely short time, screw the screws by inserting the appropriate bit into the drill instead of a drill.
Ready!
Subtleties:
- The makiwara is an elastic structure, and if the back board is not tightly screwed to the wall, then vibration during operation begins to tear this very board from the wall from the bottom up. That's why do not skimp on the length of the dowels, especially in the lower part, and tighten it properly. If the wall material is not very strong, the length of the fastenings should be increased, and the type itself should be selected accordingly. Once again - The work involves repeated strong impact loads - it must be attached to the wall very securely!
- I trust that there will be alternatively gifted citizens who will decide to first assemble the makiwara and then screw it on. Dear friends! So - it will NOT work! Assembly must be carried out exactly in the order in which it is written - layer by layer from the wall.
- In the photo, stolen from here, according to which I made my first makiwara, a rough rope is used as a target. I I insist on using thick leather— it doesn’t rip off your hands, gradually strengthening the hand, it doesn’t absorb blood, if you still manage to get ragged somewhere, it can be washed and doesn’t need to be changed, and real person- leather on the outside, not rope.
- A board that is too wide will be too rigid; a board that is too narrow will break. A board width of 10-12 cm is just right.
PS. Don't buy spammer Shilov's Makivars - expensive shit.
Makiwara is the hallmark of karate. This machine is probably the most famous in the world of martial arts. Neither bags, nor paws with pads, nor wooden dummies can compare in terms of training effect with makiwara.
Makivara (Japanese 巻藁, “scroll of straw”) is a simulator for practicing punches, kicks or weapons. In fact, it is a flexible board wrapped in straw rope. With the help of this simulator, ancient karateists forged their striking blow. Masters say that without makiwara there is no karate.
Makiwara happens:
- fixed (fukushiki-makiwara),
- portable (temotishiki - makiwara).
Fixed ones are also divided into several types:
- vertical fixed (tachi-makiwara)
- horizontal movable (tsuri-makiwara)
- vertical movable (sage-makiwara), or the well-known hanging bag, which is also called that.
In addition to the obvious goals (stuffing the striking surfaces and strengthening the blows), when working with makiwara, many other, sometimes even more important goals are worked out.
The main goals achieved when working with makiwara:
– strengthens and develops strength in the shoulders, lower back and abdomen;
- strengthens the striking surfaces of the fist, legs and joints of the shoulders and arms;
- develops a sense of distance;
- promotes breathing;
— exhibits style efforts, strikes and kime;
— coordination and strengthening of all links of the strike chain;
— ordering of muscle actions;
— optimization of processes for obtaining kinetic energy system and its effective use;
— development of dynamic structures of a fighter.
The principle of operation is that the fighter strikes the elastic element, trying to direct the force exactly along the axis of the element.
First stage consists in the fact that the fighter strikes and leaves the striking limb in the release phase, in contact with the striker of the makiwara, resisting its reverse, springing effect.
Second stage. The fighter strikes the makiwara, but does not leave the striking limb in the release phase, but returns the hand to the original position of readiness/kamae after releasing the energy/Ki.
In the following articles we will describe the biomechanical principles of the effectiveness of makiwara, which exist typical errors, how to protect yourself from injury and what operating modes to use on the makiwara; how to prepare the body for makiwara work; how to make a cheap and correct makiwara yourself.
I am often asked how and what type of makiwara to install at home. I thought it was no accident. This means that this topic may be of interest to many.
Well, there are a great variety of makiwara designs.
You can read about it at this link >>>>
http://www.budoshin.ru/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=85:konstruktciimakivar&catid=20:osnariadah&Itemid=20
But not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment, because... structural noise from a rigidly fixed makiwara bothers neighbors, and vibrations from impacts can even, over time, destroy a wall or floor fixture.
In this regard, the requirements in the “home makiwara” are indicated:
- relative "silence"
- small vibrations that go “beyond” the makiwara
Those. The makiwara should absorb “into itself” a significant part of the vibrations from impacts. There are 2 main ways to solve these issues:
- high inertia of the projectile, i.e. its great mass
- shock-absorbing structures
I will not go into numerous details, but will simply give 2 options that, in my opinion, are most suitable for the home:
- a version of a makiwara made from an old car tire (very cheap and cheerful, you can even achieve some projectile aesthetics); the shock-absorbing properties of rubber, combined with the geometry of the hollow torus, make it possible to make the projectile very quiet; picture >>> http://www.budoshin.ru/images/stories/Makiwara4.jpeg
- the second option, I’ll say right away, is not cheap, but very functional and aesthetic, in addition, this is a real makiwara, and not a surrogate
Makiwara "Shilova's Tuning Fork":
Installation in the apartment is simple. Recently I asked one of my “workshop” comrades to send me a version of his home installation and a review, which I present here.
Option for placing a makiwara in an ordinary apartment apartment building.
Hello, Mikhail Yurievich!
I am answering your questionnaire:
1. with packaging, delivery and appearance(although this is not so important) everything is fine;
2. Makiwara even exceeded expectations;
3. secured it quite simply - put rubber on it and pulled it to the wall with 160 self-tapping screws...
……………………………..
Sincerely, Shubny Denis
This is part of the letter.
And here are Denis’s photographs, which show that he installed a makiwara right in his apartment.