Some home-made people try to make a plow with their own hands, copying it from a tractor or horse-drawn plow. Often such an attempt ended in failure, not because the craftsmen lacked patience and will, but because of the lack of necessary knowledge about the geometry of the plow body.
A little theory
In order to more clearly imagine the plowing process and the purpose of the individual elements of the plow, we first consider the interaction of a simple wedge with the soil. Under the influence of the wedge, soil deformation occurs, the nature of which depends on the technological properties of the soil and the angle alpha (α) of setting the working edge of the wedge to the horizon.A dihedral wedge with an alpha angle separates the layer from the bottom of the furrow, lifts it, compresses it in a vertical plane and splits it into separate parts. The larger the alpha angle, the more the wedge bends and crumbles the separated layer. However, when the alpha angle increases to 45°, the soil stops sliding along the upper edge of the wedge and begins to “unload” in front of the wedge. A dihedral wedge with a gamma angle (γ), oriented vertically, separates the formation from the wall of the furrow, moves the soil to the side and compresses it in the horizontal plane.
A dihedral wedge with an angle beta (β) is designed to deflect the formation to the side, turning it over.
However, in order to transfer the formation from a horizontal position to an inclined one and turn it over, the beta angle of the wedge must vary from 25° to 130°, that is, the surface of the wedge must be curved. The complex impact on the formation of three dihedral wedges will replace one trihedral wedge, which is an AMBO tetrahedron with three mutually perpendicular faces VOM, AOM and AOB.
When moving the trihedral wedge in the direction of the X axis, edge AB cuts off the layer from the bottom of the furrow, edge VM from the wall of the furrow, and edge ABM takes the layer to the side, crumbles and wraps it.
To ensure plowing of the soil, the triangular wedge is converted into a curved plowshare-mouldboard surface of the plow body, which is characterized by continuously changing angles alpha, gamma, and beta.
Let us recall that the working parts of the plow are: a ploughshare, cutting the layer from below; a blade for wrapping and crumbling the formation, a field board - a plow support that rests on the bottom of the furrow. The moldboard, ploughshare, field board, as well as the stand, with the help of which the previously listed plow organs are attached, make up the body of the plow. Moving in the soil along the X-axis, the plow body with a curved surface cuts off the layer, lifts it, deforms it, crumbles it, wraps it and dumps it into an open furrow. Of the many technological operations performed by a plow, the main one, from the point of view of agricultural technology, is the turnover and crumbling of the formation, the intensity of which is determined by the values and intensity of changes in the angles alpha, gamma, and beta, that is, the actual shape of the working surface of the moldboard of the plow body.
a - plowing depth; b - width of the formation of the plow body
The surfaces of the dumps can be cylindrical, cylindrical (resembling cylindrical) and helical. A plow with a cylindrical surface crumbles and mixes soil layers well, but does not turn the layer well, which does not meet the requirements of agricultural technology. Therefore, plows with cylindrical body surfaces are not used for plowing the land. Of greatest interest is the plow with a cylindrical moldboard surface. This surface is characterized by an intensive increase in both the crumbling angle alpha (from α 0 =25° to α max =130°) and the formation wrapping angle beta (from β 0 = 25°...35° to β max =100°. ..130°). The gamma shift angle varies within small limits from (from γ 0 =35°...42° to γ max =45°...50°).
Making a plow
Now that we have become a little familiar with the theory of the plow, we move on to making a homemade plow. So that the plow can be made by everyone (who is familiar with metalworking), and even those who do not have the ability to bend the moldboard on sheet-bending rollers, below are three options for manufacturing the moldboard of the plow body. When forming the body of the plow, it is necessary to take into account the fact that when lifting a layer of earth 20-25 cm high, the plow experiences very significant loads, and the surfaces of its body are subject to abrasive wear, therefore, for the working parts of the plow it is necessary to select steel 3-5 mm thick.ploughshare. The plow share must be removable (for sharpening before plowing); it would be better to make it from alloy steel 9ХС (disc circular saw). 45 steel, hardened to a hardness of HRC 50-55, is also suitable. If only carbon steel of ordinary quality is available, for example, St. 5, which is not “heat-treated,” it can also be made to satisfactorily cut a layer of earth if, before plowing, the cutting part of the ploughshare is beaten on an anvil in a cold state, like a scythe, and sharpened.
The first version of the blade manufacturing. As stated above, work surface the blade must have a cylindrical surface. If you have sheet bending rollers, giving the workpiece the desired shape will not be difficult. To do this, a blade blank 3-4 mm thick, cut from steel (gas-electric welding, scissors), is fed to the rollers at an angle of 20°-23°, bent, and then refined with a hammer according to the template.
Second option. The blade can be made from steel pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm, the wall thickness of which is 4-5 mm. In this case, first a moldboard template is made from thick cardboard, then the template is placed on the pipe, making sure that there is an angle of 20-23° between the lower generatrix of the blade and the generatrix of the pipe cylinder. The contour of the blade is outlined with chalk, then the blade is cut out using gas welding and processed using emery. If necessary, the shape of the blade is modified with a hammer, focusing on the template.
Blade shape from a pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm (wall thickness 4-5 mm)
Third option. The most labor-intensive method of producing a moldboard is when its workpiece has to be heated in a forge (or in another way), and then bent along a matrix (a moldboard from a tractor plow is suitable for the latter).
The plow body is made of sheet steel St.3-St.10 with a thickness of 3 mm.
a - ploughshare, alloy steel; b - side shield of the rack, St3; c - spacer plate, St3; g - plow base plate, St3; d - field board, corner 30x30 mm; e - stand, pipe with a diameter of 42 mm
It is recommended to first make the plow elements from thick cardboard and glue them together, maintaining the appropriate angles. Thus, the value of the alpha and beta angles in different parts of the body will be from 25° to 130°, the gamma angle - from 42° to 50°. If a homemade plow made of cardboard satisfies you in all respects, feel free to tackle metal.
When metal elements plows will be ready, to assemble the body you will need a metal (steel) sheet 2-3 mm thick and 500x500 mm in size, and you will also need welding machine. On the metal sheet, stepping back 40 mm from the edges, we set the angle γ 0.
Plow assembly: 1 - ploughshare; 2 - side shield of the rack; 3 - metal sheet 2-3 mm
Using wedges with an angle α 0 =25°, we install a ploughshare on a metal sheet and attach it to the sheet by welding on both sides. We place the side shield of the rack under the ploughshare, making sure that it is positioned vertically and extends beyond the edge of the ploughshare by 5-8 mm, while the rack shield should be located above the blade of the ploughshare (that is, above the sheet) by 6-10 mm, so that do not interfere with the blade of the ploughshare cutting the layer of earth. The shield is also lightly welded to both the ploughshare and the metal sheet.
Then we try on the blade to the ploughshare, which should fit tightly with the ploughshare, without gaps, so that the surfaces of the blade and the ploughshare form one whole. The angle between the ploughshare blade and the upper edge of the blade is equal to the difference between the angles γ max and γ 0 and should be 6-8°.
1 - ploughshare; 2 - countersunk head screw M8; 3 - blade; 4 - base plate; 5 - corner 30x30x90 mm; 6 - M8 nut
If a discrepancy between the corners and/or surfaces is detected, the blade is modified with a hammer. Having adjusted the blade to the ploughshare, it is welded to the ploughshare (from the back), as well as to the side shield. Next, a spacer bar and a base plate are welded to the side shield, and the thrust corners for the ploughshare are again attached to the latter. The plow is inspected again and finally welded, while the metal sheet on which the plow was assembled is disconnected from the body using a chisel or a grinder with cutting disc. The thrust corners of the plowshare attachment are thoroughly welded to the base plate. Then the welds are cleaned, and the blade and plowshare are treated with sandpaper.
In order for the plow to be “self-propelled” and “hold the furrow” itself, it is necessary to adapt a 2-wheeled block to it.
1 - field wheel; 2 - beam; 3 - furrow wheel; 4 - plow body; 5 - handle; 6 - wheel axle; 7 - channel plow adjustment plate
A furrow wheel with a diameter of 320 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is made from a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick. A field wheel with a diameter of 200 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is cut from the same material. The wheel axle is made of 3/4-inch tubing. On one side, the pipe is bent at an angle of 90° and a sleeve is welded to the bent end to install the furrow wheel. A field wheel is attached to the other end of the pipe. The wheel axle is also made composite (the figure above shows a composite axle). The pipe itself is welded to the plow beam (a pipe with a diameter of 42 mm).
The depth of plowing with the plow will be 200-240 mm, that is, it will be approximately equal to the vertical distance from the toe of the ploughshare to the field wheel (see figure above). The plowing width, equal to 220-250 mm, depends on the distance (horizontally) from the tip of the ploughshare to the furrow wheel. Those who want to make the plow adjustable in terms of plowing depth and the width of the soil layer (towards a decrease) must ensure that the field wheel can be moved vertically, and the furrow wheel can be moved horizontally, and also fix the wheels in the desired position. To ensure stability of the plow during plowing, it is necessary to adjust the point at which the plow is attached to the cable (if the plow is moved using an electric winch) or to the hook (if the draft force is a horse). To make it easier to find the optimal attachment point for the plow, the easiest way is to take a steel plate 6-8 mm thick (or better yet, a channel) measuring 120x160 mm, drill a series of holes with a diameter of 10 mm in it and weld the plate to the plow beam. The picture below shows an adjustment plate that is attached to a wheel block with a composite axle for the wheels.
a - plate; b - fastening the plate (channel) to the beam; c - loop
The plow works best with an electric winch, because the cable pulls the plow strictly horizontally. When a plow is pulled by a horse, there is a vertical component of the pulling force that lifts the wheel unit upward. Moreover, the taller the horse and the closer the plow is attached to it, the greater this vertical component of the force. When initially connecting the plow to the pulling unit, tie the cable to the adjustment plate, stepping back from the row by 60-90 mm towards the furrow wheel. The first furrow in the arable land is made at half the plowing depth to reduce bending forces. When passing the second furrow, having traveled 5 m, you must stop and look at the cut of the furrow; the field board should leave a clear mark on it, which will indicate that the plow is interacting correctly with the soil. If the mark is not noticeable, move the attachment point to the left wheel by 30-60 mm, if the mark is excessive, move the point to the furrow wheel. If the plow does not want to go deep, move the attachment point above the beam by 30-60 mm, and if it is too deep, lower the plow attachment point.
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A homemade plow is not only economically profitable, but also not difficult to produce. You will always be confident in the reliability of such equipment, but let's figure out how to build it.
The plow is used in agriculture for plowing the land.
If you have ever read newspapers and magazines intended for rural residents, you have probably noticed an abundance of advertising for the sale of mini tractors and walk-behind tractors. Not surprisingly, the land has to be cultivated. But attachments for such equipment are not always available for sale. high quality. The most popular unit is the plow. And when purchasing it, the future plowman gets a lot of problems: one cannot always expect high-quality plowing from such a device, although the plow is worth it industrial production pretty impressive. Great alternative a low-quality product may be a homemade plow.
Plow design
Before we start making the plow, let's figure it out design features. Its main parts are: a ploughshare, a blade and a field board.
Types of plow moldboards: 1 – cylindrical; 2 and 3 – cultural; 4 – half-screw; 5 – screw.
The ploughshare is the main cutting part of the plow. It is located under the dump. The angle of inclination of the cutting edge of the ploughshare should be about 40 degrees. At a smaller angle, the product will rush upward. When working on a walk-behind tractor, you will constantly have to lift the handles, which will lead to rapid fatigue of the worker. A homemade plow for a mini tractor with the mentioned ploughshare must be kept in the soil at all times using hydraulics. The ploughshare is made from high-strength steel grades. It can be difficult to find such material at home, so it is recommended to use an industrially produced plowshare from old technology. A part from a skimmer may be ideal. In the old days, agricultural machinery was not very powerful, so for heavy soils equipment was used, in front of which skimmers were installed - small plows pre-treatment soils, due to which the turf was loosened.
The plow moldboard plays an important role. His work is based on the shape of the leaf. The better the sheet is bent outward, the easier it is for the product to turn over the plowed land. The blade is made from low-carbon steel with a thickness of 3 mm (this is the critical thickness that is suitable for a walk-behind tractor). The tractor will require a blade with a larger sheet area and thicker material.
The plow board is needed to ensure its stability in the soil. If your walk-behind tractor has wheel locking, then if you have a properly installed field board, you will not have to experience great physical activity. It is enough for the block to “show” the direction and set the recess, and then it will work itself until the end of the plowing strip.
Required tools and materials
Now let's move on to the actual production of the plow. We will start with mathematical calculations taking into account technical characteristics your walk-behind tractor. If your equipment has a good coefficient of adhesion to the soil, then you can use any drawings as a basis attachments for mini equipment. Otherwise, take your time to make a plow with a wide grip and a large recess. For a conventional walk-behind tractor, the following proportions must be observed: 8 kg of equipment weight per 1 cm of recess and per 0.5 cm of plowing width.
To assemble the plow you will need:
- a finished ploughshare or a piece of durable steel;
- electric drill;
- steel for making a blade and field board;
- electric welding;
- Bulgarian;
- bolts and nuts;
- metal stand for making the base.
Work order
Method for determining the center of gravity of a plow: 1 - plow body; 2 – beam; 3 – plow handles; 4, 5 and 6 – ropes; 7 – hook; 8 – plumb line.
On level ground horizontal surface We install the stand vertically, place the field board on the left side in the direction of the intended movement, and the ploughshare is located on the right side. Sometimes you can come across advice that all parts must be welded to the rack. If you are also planning to do this, then give up this idea: the plow must be collapsible. Then, if any element is damaged, it can be easily replaced, which will reduce forced downtime.
In order for the plow to be easily disassembled and assembled, weld a base for it; the product will include triangular shapes designed to ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. We screw the ploughshare and field board onto this base in the previously marked directions. The blade must be secured above the plowshare. It needs to be given a certain roundness, which can be done on a special machine or by forging. Cold forging It won't work here for two reasons:
- Cold metal is very difficult to deform.
- It will not be possible to give the product a certain shape: you will create irregularities that will prevent the soil from sliding along the dump sheet.
It will be better if the metal is heated, forged and immediately hardened. The holes in the blade (3 of them are needed) can be made directly in the forge, but do not make mistakes with the accuracy of the markings.
Now let’s fix the blade on the body. For fastening, it is necessary to use bolts with a head that fits tightly into the hole. All protrusions will interfere with the operation of the plow, so they must be cut off to fit the base and the areas sanded.
If you work for personal plot on a tractor, then you need to have twin plows that are attached to an axis that runs at an angle to the equipment.
Here, fastening is carried out using strong metal clamps (do not use welded fastening elements - they will break under load!). The position of the bearing axis should not be stationary. Here it is necessary to provide at least a small angle of rotation so that you can adjust the position of the plows.
If desired, the master can also make a reversible plow by placing a hydraulic drive for turning in the gap between the axle and the tractor. But such a design is popularly recognized as irrational: it breaks down too quickly. It’s better to use factory-made plow turning elements. If they are available, then there is no problem; there is no need to make such a complex device yourself. It will cost a waste of time and nerves, and the result of the efforts will be short-lived.
Making a homemade plow is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. Despite the appearance simple design, For proper operation it is necessary to maintain the geometry of the plow correctly, otherwise all efforts will be in vain.
Preparing tools and materials for work
Designing a plow with your own hands requires a clear plan of action and selection the right tools and materials. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the finished product drawings in advance. Besides this, homemade product for cultivating land should be simple in design and efficient in use.
To make a standard version of a hand-held plow you will need the following:
- ploughshare or steel billet;
- perforator;
- steel material for the manufacture of blades and field boards;
- welding inverter;
- angle grinder;
- fasteners, in the form of a set of bolts and nuts;
- metal stand for making a plow base.
When gripping a layer of soil over 25 cm, the surface and material of the plow are subjected to heavy loads, which can result in rapid wear of the product. It is best to choose carbon steel 9ХС or hardened steel 45 with a thickness of 4-5 mm as the workpiece material.
The plow (shown in the photo below) is one of the main parts of the plow. For ease of use, it is better to make it removable; it will be easier to sharpen.
Next, we begin manufacturing the working part of the plow body, which is responsible for lifting the soil and turning it into the furrow. There are several ways to make the dump part. The contact surface of the dump side has the shape of a cylinder. Using bending equipment, producing such a workpiece will not be very difficult.
If you don’t have the equipment, metal shears or electric gas welding devices will do. On a bending machine, the workpiece is fed onto the shafts at an angle of 20-23 degrees, and a selected punch is used to give the desired radius.
Another option involves the availability of a finished pipe with a diameter of 0.55-0.6 m and a wall thickness of 3-5 mm. A template is made from ordinary cardboard to cover the required area of the pipe, along the contour of which the required shape is cut out using electric gas welding equipment.
To eliminate bulges and burrs, use a hammer and file. The most difficult method of manufacturing a plow is considered to be the production of a blank in a metallurgical furnace, followed by straightening with the finished matrix (sometimes a tractor plow blade is used).
The blank for the product body is a sheet of steel with a carbon content of 0.03 to 0.1%, with a thickness of at least 3 mm. To maintain the dimensions, it is recommended to first assemble the model from cardboard, and then take on the metal base.
Assembling a homemade product
After all the elements of the future plow are ready, to complete the work you will need sheet stock made of metal 0.5x0.5 m and a welding inverter. They are welded to the workpiece with certain angular dimensions plow parts: plow and side shield. The moldboard part is applied to the surface of the ploughshare.
If the angles are calculated incorrectly, the plow blade is brought to the correct shape using a hammer, and then it is attached to the back of the ploughshare and to the side shield by welding. Afterwards, an expansion bar and a base in the form of a plate are installed on the shield, on which the corners for the ploughshare are attached.
The assembled home-made product for tillage is carefully inspected for all welded joints and, if there are no defects, all seams are finally welded.
Upon completion of assembly and welding work The auxiliary sheet is removed using an angle grinder or available metalworking tools. Places of welded joints require mandatory cleaning, and the blade and ploughshare are treated with sandpaper for standard roughness.
To set the product in motion, it must be attached to a walk-behind tractor. A similar design can be used when constructing a plow for mini tractors. The difference will only be in overall and geometric dimensions, depending on what type of mini tractor the product is designed for.
Plow construction with my own hands in addition to acquiring certain skills, it will significantly help reduce the labor intensity when working on your site.
DIY plow photo
When purchasing a mini-tractor for cultivating a small plot of land, the package often does not include all the elements of attachments, so they have to be purchased separately. And the retail price of any spare parts is much higher and depends on the manufacturer and quality.
Equipment that meets all the requirements of a business owner is not always available on the market. That's why best option- make a homemade plow, which will cost much less than factory equipment, sometimes of dubious quality.
To make a plow yourself, you need to know its design and the functions of its individual elements well. Typically, general-purpose arable attachments are used on private land. The design of such a plow can be divided into two main parts: working and auxiliary.
Operating equipment items include:
- A housing that includes a stand and field board. The blade and ploughshare are attached to the stand.
- The knife is the main cutting element of the tiller.
- The skimmer is an additional cutting element of the attachment designed to cut the top layer of soil (turf).
Auxiliary structural elements:
- The frame is the base on which all other parts of the plow are attached. Its design includes longitudinal bars, spacers, and stiffening beams.
- Support wheel (its mounting height can be adjusted).
- A hitch is a special device with which attachments can be attached to an MTZ tractor or motor cultivator.
Plow with skimmer for walk-behind tractor
The skimmer is designed to remove the top layer of soil when plowing land plot. He turns over the layer of soil with weeds, places it at the very bottom of the furrow, made by a body equipped with special devices. He cuts and turns some of the soil on the side of the furrow. At the same time, the body with the equipment loosens the soil and distributes it evenly over the layer of weeds laid by the skimmer. To level the wall of the furrow, the plow is equipped with a special knife, which is mounted in front of the outer body of the attachment.
Types and structure of the case
Plows are divided depending on the number of bodies into single-, double-body and multi-body devices.
The housing design includes the following parts:
- rack;
- field board;
- ploughshare;
- dump
The type and quality of plowing of the land plot depends on the last two elements of the structure. The ploughshare cuts the soil layer, which then rises along it towards the dump, then turns over and crumbles. The angle of rotation of the earth layer depends on the design of the dump. A field board is mounted at the bottom of the body, which prevents the plow from moving in the direction of the plowed land.
If you are interested in how to make a plow with your own hands, you should select drawings of its design based on the type of soil being cultivated with this attachment for an MTZ tractor or motor cultivator.
Plow body options:
Important! If you are planning to make a plow with a support wheel for a walk-behind tractor in living conditions, it is recommended to select the housing design depending on the type of soil.
The choice of housing depends on the type of crop being grown. Root crops need thoroughly loosened soil, for which none of the above listed options for agricultural attachments is suitable. In this case, it is recommended to use a combined design. The body is equipped with a shortened blade, a plowshare and a rotor, which further crushes the soil during the cultivation of the land.
Blade design
Dumps can be:
Important! When choosing a plow design, it is necessary to take into account a significant point: the ploughshare and blade must be almost the same thickness (1 mm is the permissible “step” value, no more than 0.5 mm is the gap between the blade and the ploughshare).
Share shape
To make a plow with your own hands, drawings of a plow for a mini tractor need to be selected according to the type of soil being cultivated and the complexity of the device itself. First you need to decide on the design of the ploughshare.
A ploughshare is a part of a plow that cuts a layer of soil. Along the ploughshare, the soil further rises to the dump. For the manufacture of this structural element of the plow, high-strength hardened steel is used. You can make such a structural element of a plow field at home from an ordinary steel pipe.
Shapes of ploughshare:
Of the listed ploughshare options, the most popular is a chisel-shaped product for reversible plow. They are considered the most stable during operation; the plow can be freely buried to the required depth.
Before you make the plow self made for a walk-behind tractor, you need to choose the right design diagram for the attachments. If available old instrument, new parts can be made based on it. If the old plow is missing, you can use Zykov’s drawings to make it. But it is imperative to take into account the parameters of agricultural machinery on which further use of independently manufactured attachments is planned.
After I got a self-made agricultural winch, which is used for plowing the garden, the question became: should I buy a plow or make it myself? Walking through the shops and bazaar of Smolensk, you get a strange feeling that the plows produced by the industry for walk-behind tractors are a sad sight.
And these industrial creations are suitable only for “picking” and not for plowing the land, and even with the rotation of the layer, and regarding the depth and width of plowing, we can conclude that for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm, not one of the proposed ones is suitable in the plow trade. Either our manufacturers are saving money, or the power of the most popular walk-behind tractors is not enough to work with a normal plow with a working width of 30 cm. When planting potatoes, you shouldn’t plow one furrow three times. And the price wants to leave the best - under 2 thousand. rubles (for a couple of pieces of iron from a scrap metal collection point).
The next step to find something useful is to search the Internet. To my surprise, there are 3-4 original descriptions with drawings floating in the vastness of the Russian-language network (this fact surprises me very much). The next step is to look at what those around you are using. It was not possible to buy a suitable plow; the decision was made to make a plow with our own hands. Based on the fact that the plow was supposed to be used for planting potatoes with a winch for plowing, the following requirements are imposed on it:
1. Plowing width – up to 30 cm.
2. Plowing depth -10-20cm.
3. The plow must hold the furrow itself, without digging in or jumping out of the furrow. The geometry of the plow must ensure movement with the specified parameters without the help of a plowman.
4. Possibility of adjusting the depth and width of plowing.
5. Minimum weight and sufficient strength.
My uncle has been using his for over 10 years homemade motorized winch for plowing and tried several options, for the last few years he settled on an option optimized for a homemade motorized winch for the garden, namely for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm. There is also a homemade hiller for a motorized winch and a homemade potato digger, all this can be viewed on the corresponding pages of the site.
Plow drawing
Field board drawing.
The blade is bent according to this template until the two profiles coincide and then welded at an angle.
Using a drawing of a homemade plow you need to thick paper draw a template for the plow pattern, and then transfer the picture to the metal and cut out the blank with a grinder. Personally, I used stainless steel material with a thickness of 1.8 mm. Many often use a sheet of 2-3 mm. The cutting part of the plow is reinforced with a strip of thicker metal. Someone suggests using a disk from a circular machine for these purposes, or a spring from a “Muscovite”. From personal experience, If summer cottage plot For a family of 4 people, plowing six acres in the spring and autumn is not worth pursuing for super-strength. It is more profitable to make a plow that is light but strong enough for its tasks. It’s better to repair or replace something after 10 years, and only if necessary, than to carry around the heavy structure of a homemade plow for 10 years. Overweight no use.
This is what the plowing width adjustment system looks like. By rearranging the large wheel, you can change the plowing width within significant limits. When I plant potatoes, I set the grip to 30 cm, in two passes the distance between the rows is 60 cm. For autumn plowing of the garden or when plowing virgin soil, I use a smaller grip. The small wheel is made so wide that the plow does not press into the ground.
Having looked at the pictures below, you can imagine the basic principles of operation of a homemade plow, or rather a guide system that allows the plow, without the participation of a plowman, to move strictly in a straight line at the established plowing depth and width. The plowing width is regulated by moving the large wheel, which, when the point of application of the traction force is shifted as shown in the figure, is pressed against the furrow, which allows the plow to repeat the direction of the previous furrow. The plow turns slightly, which increases the plowing width. In fact, the width of the nose in the direction perpendicular to the axis of movement of the plow is less than 300 mm, however, the specified width is available for plowing.
The plow wheel runs along the bottom of the plowed furrow and this situation is observed from the previous furrow to the next. As a result of the application of traction force, a force is exerted to deepen the plow until the plow is aligned with the axis of the wheel, as shown in the figure, as a result, all forces are balanced, and the system operates very stably. Rough adjustment of the plowing depth is carried out by selecting the appropriate difference in wheel diameters, and smooth adjustment is carried out by adjusting the tilt of the plow. At this stage, there was no longer any need to use handles to control the plow, except for some special plowing conditions.
Plows not only loose soil as in the video, but also virgin soil
Plow for agricultural winch - video
The plow is used in conjunction with such a winch for plowing
You can find industrial motorized and electric winches for plows on sale.