Many different devices are designed to make the life of every person much easier. One such mechanism is a winch.
What options has the inquisitive human mind come up with in order to move various devices large mass. The winch described in this article does not require an external power source and can be operated almost anywhere. The main energy unit is a small internal combustion engine.
Let's start the process of making a winch with our own hands from the platform. To make it, you need to stock up on a square steel profile and a steel plate with a thickness of at least 4-5 millimeters. To work with the listed material, it is necessary to prepare a corner grinder(grinder) with metal discs or a hacksaw for metal, as well as a welding machine. The best option for performing work in a garage or country house is a welding machine operating on 220 volts. The use of electrodes of small (2-3 millimeters) diameter makes it possible to ensure high quality performing a weld.
Using any tool, cut the prepared profile into several parts according to the attached drawing. All dimensions are in inches.
Pay attention to sawing the ends of the lower and upper parts of the platform at an angle of 45° in order to obtain a connection at a right angle. To mark the parts, use a school protractor or protractor. Control the process of connecting such joints with a plumber's square.
If you have no experience making welds, practice on the remnants of the profile until you achieve maximum joint quality. Only after this can you begin to assemble the platform elements. After making the connections, make a series of holes to attach the winch assemblies.
Treat the manufactured platform structure with sandpaper. Remove scale formed during welding from the joints of parts with light blows of a hammer and check the quality of the seams. After this, paint the structure with nitro enamel of any color.
The next mandatory winch unit that you can make yourself is the reel. It is made from two steel disks connected by several steel threaded studs.
The sizes of the hairpins are selected individually depending on the length of the cord. To ensure parallelism of the side disks of the coil, prepare several support tubes of equal length, the number of which should be equal to the number of studs.
The installation of the coil on the shaft, ensuring its uniform rotation, is carried out using two hubs, each having four cotter pins for attaching the coil disks and locking screws for fastening to the shaft.
A similar design is necessary for installing a large sprocket on the shaft, designed to transfer torque from the engine to the coil using a chain drive. The use of this type of mechanical transmission allows you to obtain maximum power from the mechanism with a minimum number of parts.
After preparing all parts of the winch, you can begin the final assembly of the mechanism.
On a treated and painted platform, using bolts of a suitable diameter and length, we mount the engine with a small sprocket rigidly fixed to its output shaft. We also firmly fix the reel with the shaft and large sprocket. We achieve the required chain tension by moving the engine mounting bolts in the longitudinal slots in the platform. In this case, it is necessary to constantly monitor the tension level to avoid rupture of the transmission element.
To ensure the most convenient movement of the winch on the ground, a wheel pair is provided that is attached to a square steel profile slightly larger cross-section for installation on the platform shank. The same profile is welded on the side for installation at the rear of the car.
This design allows for installation additional elements to be able to apply winch traction forces in different directions. We are talking about a group of rollers installed next to the reel.
A winch made in this way can become an indispensable assistant for road travelers combining long trips and recreation on the water. With the help of a winch, it will not be difficult to lift it out of the water and install it on the trailer. plastic boat or a boat, jet ski and other watercraft small size. The use of a gasoline engine allows the winch to operate independently of the vehicle and any sources of electricity.
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The frame must be rigid so that it lasts a long time, and is built from pipes with a diameter of Ф26.8 mm. The load on it is quite large, so reducing the diameter of the pipes in order to reduce weight is undesirable.
The frame can be folded for easy transportation of the winch in the trunk of a car. The lower frame (not shown in the picture) is welded from 45mm angle iron. The lugs are made of the same angle at the corners; they prevent the winch itself from moving when plowing.
To move the unit around the site, two mounted wheels are provided, this allows one person to freely move the winch around the garden.
When unwinding the cable and moving the plow to the beginning of the furrow, it is possible that the drum will begin to unwind by inertia and the cable will become entangled. To eliminate this situation, a braking device is provided. The spring presses the copper (brass) insert against the drum and the cable does not get tangled. The device is mandatory, as it greatly facilitates working with a motorized winch.
It is advisable to fasten the upper and lower shafts as indicated in the figure (from the front side and from the back side of the frame), this has a beneficial effect on the rigidity of the entire structure, since mutual balancing of multidirectional forces acting on the frame occurs plowing winches.
This is what the bottom frame of the plowing winch looks like
This is what the braking system looks like
And these are wheels for transportation around the site
Star on coupling
The photo shows the coupling for the winch assembled with an asterisk. I use a sprocket from a Minsk motorcycle with the number of teeth 13, just 12 were not available for sale, the internal diameter is bored out to 25mm, then welded. I think it's possible and one-piece production couplings, but easier using welding. We grind the tooth as in a movable coupling using a grinder; if you know a milling machine, it will turn out no worse.
Clutch for agricultural winch
The serrated bevel was made using a grinder. To avoid mistakes, it is better to carry out this operation after preliminary assembly of both couplings on the shaft. According to the reference book, jaw couplings are made of steel 20X - jaw hardness HRC 58...62, from steel 45 - jaw hardness HRC 48..52. But this is according to the reference book; in fact, raw 45 steel is used.
Modernized version
The emergence of this option was caused by periodic wear of the speed lever fork and gradual wear of the clutch under the influence of friction forces. The use of such a design, where the friction force is replaced by a rolling force and even then a periodic one, made the unit extremely reliable.
Star on the engine
The sprockets were previously used from a VAZ 2101 car. There is a double chain and, accordingly, sprockets, at first it seemed that it was necessary, so that it would be more reliable, but this is due to our excessive margin of safety from Soviet times. Everything must proceed from the principle of necessary and sufficient strength.
Now I use chains and sprockets from the Minsk motorcycle. If there is an even number of links, an odd number of teeth should be selected. The sprockets are made of steel grades 40, 45. The hardness of the surface layer of the rims is within HRC 40... 50 to a depth of 1.5 mm. It is allowed to manufacture stars from steel 15 or 20, the depth of the cementation layer on the rims is 1-1.5 mm, hardness HRC52..60. In practice, you need to proceed from what you have. When buying chains, it is better to take the one with the maximum number of links (in my opinion, from the Ant walk-behind tractor) - the price is the same, but the number of links is different.
The drawing shows the design of a homemade sprocket that fits directly onto the shaft of a “Ural” or “Druzhba” chainsaw; the shafts in them are identical in seating. To make it, we actually had to use some of the capabilities of the tool shop. There are much simpler options - a bushing from a saw, a sprocket from a Minsk motorcycle. It is necessary to modify the inner diameter of the star and then weld it.
This design is due to the absence on the market of motorcycle sprockets with the number of teeth less than 13, and in homemade ones - 10. By the way, the technology for making teeth at home is as follows: 1-Draw on a computer and print out an asterisk(); 2-Glue the template onto the workpiece; 3-mark the center of the holes; 4 - drill holes: 5 - take a grinder and grind the teeth according to the template.
The result is not inferior to industrial designs - the method has been tested and tested in practice. The large sprocket from the Minsk motorcycle has 43 teeth, and the small ones I now have are one 10, the other 14 (standard). This ratio results in a very good gear ratio, providing good plow speed and high traction force.
Lower shaft
The picture shows the lower shaft homemade motor winch assembled, but without a sprocket (a sprocket from a Minsk motorcycle with a number of teeth of 43 is used).
The coils are connected by a piece of pipe, in my case with an internal diameter of 50mm. By changing the outer diameter of the pipe, the lower shaft, you can change the gear ratio motorized winches for plowing. For a cable, the larger the drum diameter, the better the durability, but the gear ratio decreases.
We cut the pipe in half and weld the housing for the bearings to it. Don't forget to drill holes in the housing so that you can remove the bearing from the housing when replacing it. On the first version of winch 203, the bearings lasted 10 years. When they failed, there was no limit to surprise, since they were open. I consider the use of 203 bearings optimal. These are the landing diameters of the shafts 17mm. The next standard size is 204 - the mounting diameter of the shafts is 20 mm, but this leads to an increase in the weight of the motorized winch, which is of no use. There are two options for attaching the lower shaft: 1- in front of the frame, 2- behind the frame. In my opinion, placing the lower shaft behind the frame and the upper one in front of the frame is preferable, since the influence on the frame is reduced by compensating the forces of the upper and lower shafts.
The use of a cable guide has worked well. Previously, it was not there and we had to make sure that the cable did not wind past the drum. The picture shows a primitive system for guiding the cable of an agricultural winch, but the uniform laying of the cable is immediately noticeable, which has a positive effect on its service life.
Upper shaft
This is what the homemade upper shaft looks like plowing winches assembled, but without a large sprocket (a sprocket from a Minsk motorcycle with 43 teeth is used). The simplest option is to make it from any grade of steel without hardening.
It’s good if you have the opportunity to make it using heat treatment technology. Shafts can be made of Steel 3 with case hardening, then the outer part of the shaft will be hard and the inner part will be soft, and the shaft will not be subject to fracture. Can be turned from 45 steel and hardened followed by round grinding. This is already an industrial version. Personally, I ordered it to be turned from 45 steel and installed it raw, motorized winch works great.
Winch - walk-behind tractor drawings
The homemade motorized winch for plowing, made by my uncle, proved itself so well in operation that it was decided to make the same one for myself. In order to make a walk-behind tractor with my own hands, I first had to make drawings of the main components of the walk-behind tractor in the Solid Works program. For the convenience of most site visitors, all drawings homemade walk-behind tractor can be downloaded in PDF format.
Homemade winch designed to lighten heavy manual labor when cultivating the soil and can replace any walk-behind tractor or cultivator. With its help, you can plow the soil under the beds, plant, harrow, hill, dig up potatoes.
The agricultural winch allows you to carry out a full cycle of soil cultivation when growing potatoes. The unit helps preserve and maintain soil fertility, which leads to maximum yield.
Back in the 90s, a winch for plowing was created based on the engine from the Ural and Druzhba chainsaws, and it still serves faithfully to this day. Changes and improvements concerned mainly the plow. The video below clearly shows these changes. Gradually the idea came to create an electric analogue. And this is what happened, see the video and photos below.
A winch was made - a walk-behind tractor from scrap materials using standard publicly available parts and ordinary materials (electric motor 2.2 kW 1500 rpm, pipes, angles, sprockets and chains from motor vehicles).
Electric plowing winch
The motor is three-phase and connected to a single-phase 220 V network. This power is enough for plowing, hilling, and digging up potatoes. If you buy a motor for a single-phase network, you can plow virgin soil. And in my modification for plowing virgin soil, I used a block that reduces the plowing speed by half, but also increases the effort.
One phase motor costs more than 10,000 rubles. We are talking about the city of Smolensk, so a 3-phase one was installed. In addition, people who were faced with rewinding a single-phase motor faced big problems. A 3-phase motor is in practice more reliable - it can operate continuously for years.
The principle of operation of an agricultural winch is to sequentially plow the land with the plow returning to the beginning of the furrow. It is advisable to carry out the work together, but if necessary, it is possible to do it alone. In this case, it is possible to apply fertilizer (humus) directly into the furrow.
Even the turf (virgin soil) can be plowed. At first, the classic one was used homemade plow with handles, which required basic plowman skills and weighed a couple of kilograms more than the modernized one.
Electric and petrol winch
(the wheels on the winch are used only for transportation around the site)
Parts that need to be turned lathe or buy it at a motorcycle parts store.
A winch is a unit that is used to move or vertically lift heavy structures using a flexible cable, rope or chain. The latter are connected to a drum, which can have several drive options.
The simplest of them is manual: it is more durable than the others, but it is not suitable for daily use and heavy loads: the operator will quickly get tired. Electric winches are reliable, structurally perfect and solve a much wider range of problems than manual ones. The only negative is the dependence on power supply, which is not always available in the field or on rough terrain. The most practical and trouble-free unit is a winch based on an internal combustion engine: it creates high power, works in any conditions, even in places where no one has gone before.
Unfortunately, production models of such equipment cost a lot, and not everyone can afford them. In this case, homemade products come to the rescue - homemade winches driven by a chainsaw or special ready-made adapters that will turn a regular household chainsaw into a miniature analogue of a crane - a motorized winch.
Let's take a closer look at how you can do this at home.
Making a winch from a chainsaw: where to start?
This question is asked by all those who take on such a responsible and, at first glance, difficult job for the first time. Let us reassure you, because everything is not as complicated as it appears at first.
To turn a chainsaw into a motorized winch, we will need:
- chainsaw - you can take the domestic Ural or Druzhba, or turn to products of European origin. It is advisable not to take household models - with a thrust of less than 2.5 kW;
- drum - take a ready-made one from an old one manual winch or we make it ourselves;
- gearbox – to reduce motor torque;
- metal pipes or a square pipe - they will be used to create a supporting frame and an anchor: it will help to accurately fix the structure on the surface;
- lever;
- cam clamps;
- clamps.
Stages of work:
- Using improvised means, we weld a rigid structure - a frame;
- On it we assemble the engine from the chainsaw and the drum where the cable will be wound;
- We attach the gearbox to the motor with clamps;
- Through a metal shaft we aggregate the drum with a reduction gearbox. Thus, the engine speed passes through the gear part to the shaft, and from it to the rotating drum;
- So that the latter can start in auto mode, we connect a control lever, which is connected to the shaft with special cam clamps: this will allow the movement of the lever in one direction to turn on the drum, and in the other to stop, thereby controlling the work process;
- we make the anchor from pointed corners: they will have to stick into the soil or catch on a stationary object on a plane;
- we aggregate the anchor to the frame with hinges and weld a metal hold to lift it;
- We are carrying out the first tests - our chainsaw winch is ready.
An example of the use of such a motorized winch is plowing a garden with a plow - it is dragged by a winch and can be easily controlled even by a woman, or transporting logs.
More are possible complex designs: with a double gearbox, where the gear ratio will be 1:10. They are no less effective than the one described above and also contribute to the careful use of the constituent components.
The “Winch” attachment for a chainsaw is a simplified way to make a traction structure out of a chainsaw
Designing and assembling a winch from a chainsaw with your own hands, although it does not require global technical knowledge, does require a certain skill, which not everyone has. For most more in a simple way It is considered to be the purchase of a ready-made set - the “Winch” attachment.
Additional devices - “Winch” attachments for chainsaws are produced for most modern chainsaws and differ in traction force, cable length and dimensions. With their help, you can easily move a fallen tree from the roadway, pull a car out of a ditch, moor it to the shore, or clear debris in case of an emergency.
What determines the durability of homemade motorized winches?
The main factor that influences this is the build quality. Therefore, please pay attention to the following:
- reliability of the clutch of motorcycle tools;
- no problems with starting the motor part of the saw - slipping, unexplained shutdowns: the saw should run smoothly and hold idle and high speeds equally well;
- trouble-free starter - otherwise a minute’s work will turn into many hours of agony;
- the presence of safety systems, hooks, belts, which should help bring the structure to perfection.
Diagnose gasoline saws for malfunctions, and only then adapt them for homemade projects: this way you will ensure your safety and save time.
Of course, work even on a small garden plot can greatly exhaust a person, not only physically, but also mentally. Indeed, wielding a shovel every day from morning to evening is not the most interesting thing. But what to do if you want to eat in winter home canning from natural cucumbers, tomatoes or spread native cherry jam on bread and slowly sip hot tea, looking at the snowstorm? You are unlikely to be able to drive a tractor to your dacha, and it will be cheaper to purchase the parts in a store. Walk-behind tractor? Expensive. But what can we do? There is a way out, and our gardeners found it. It's called a "motor winch". How to make it yourself, read right now.
Why don’t we consider a way to make a walk-behind tractor with our own hands? Yes, because its design is many times more complex than the tools of a motorized winch. And therefore, this is additional time, effort and, of course, financial waste. A do-it-yourself winch is made very quickly, and you don’t have to be a professional engineer to do it. So what should you pay attention to?
Engine
This unit is the “heart” of the motorized winch, because it is on its shoulders that all the work and movement of the accompanying mechanisms falls. Of course, we won’t make it with our own hands (although if you really want to, it’s quite possible to make something similar), so we’ll take some kind of unit from a motorcycle. The most suitable engines for such a device as a motorized winch are the engines from Minsk motorcycles. You can take the internal combustion engine from the Ural or Druzhba chainsaw - this is not important. The only thing is that the engines from Minsk are more powerful, high-torque and start well at any time. Also, when deciding how to make a motorized winch with your own hands, it should be noted that the minimum power of the power plant must be at least 3 horsepower. “Minsk” will serve as a visual aid. A do-it-yourself electric winch is made in the same way. However, the performance of its engine will be much less high than that of gasoline units.
Motorized winch: we make a drum for the cable with our own hands
It is most often made from the rear wheel hub of a motorcycle. Again, the same “Belarusian” can be used as a “donor”. More complex, but less expensive in terms of financial costs, would be the option of making a drum from a pipe. Since the speed of a moving plow when loosening and plowing the soil on a future tool will be about 5-8 km/h, the gear and diameter of this device must be selected in such a way that the device has enough speed during nominal operation in 1st gear. When you make a motorized winch with your own hands, its design also includes a gas tank. No, we won’t install it from a motorcycle; you can simply mount the container from a chainsaw. The amount of fuel consumed by the winch engine is not so large that a 10-liter gas tank can be used.
Motorized winch: we install lugs with our own hands
As these tools, you can use ordinary blades or pins welded welding machine to the U-shaped lever, which serves as a platform for the feet. Most often, the lugs are spring-loaded (purely for ease of operation). Additionally, you can also install a long lever with a saddle so that you can sit on the device while riding, rather than having to follow it on foot. So, we have considered all the main points on the question of how to make a motorized winch with your own hands.