Even without reading the instructions for laying a particular coating, you can immediately say that the base on which it will be laid must have such qualities as evenness, strength, dryness and cleanliness. But how can you get this if in front of your eyes is a surface that is clearly far from ideal? It is somewhat difficult to answer the question unambiguously, since under different coatings the subfloor can meet different requirements.
Floors are a kind of structure that consists of two types of bases - “finish” and “rough” and lies on the supporting one. For example, between floors this function is performed by the ceiling, or more precisely, by its load-bearing elements. Depending on what material is used for the finished floor, it can be plank, parquet, tile, concrete, etc. As for the rough material, which lies under the finished floor, it is a multi-layer “pie”, the structure of which is determined by:
- base design;
- finishing type;
- general requirements.
The installation of subfloors in any case, despite the differences, combines the same components:
- underlying - taking the load from the coating, evenly distributing it over the base and transferring it to the walls; in this capacity can be a floor slab and soil that has undergone preparation that meets the requirements;
- leveling – dense enough to level the surface of the previous layer; at the same stage, carry out the planned surface slope, using a screed or resorting to other methods;
- intermediate - a layer-ligament between the coating and the underlying layers of the floor;
- insulating – provide noise, heat and moisture insulation; where exactly they will be located depends on the functional load of the structure and the method of installation.
The rough floor is laid from low-quality boards, that is, slabs, waste boards, picket fences - everything on which it is possible to lay heat-, steam- and waterproofing materials. The point here is sensitivity to humidity and temperature fluctuations, therefore, in order to minimize, as far as possible, the deformation of the subsequent finishing material, materials that are capable of deformation are chosen for roughing. Depending on where it is being built, perform:
- along the beams,
- according to the logs,
- on the ground.
The first ones are installed above uninsulated undergrounds, and the finished floors of the first floors should be 80–100 cm higher than the ground. In this case, a vapor barrier layer is laid between the flooring and the plank floor.
Installation on joists
You can do it yourself. For leveling with this method, use special frame made of wooden blocks - lag. Such structures are laid in buildings where the height of the underground is no more than 25 cm. They are supported on antiseptic wooden pads of the following dimensions: length - 20-25 cm, width - 10 mm, thickness - from 25 mm. When laying on joists, the following recommendations must be followed:
Many people are concerned about the question: is it possible to lay logs without significant damage to quality at a lower cost? Yes, it’s possible - the solution is to lay the logs in a sparse manner. In addition, with a low landing, the floor may not be insulated. One of important points in this technology is the choice of flooring. This should be a thin, untreated board, which is then laid in a diagonal direction. A board thinner than the standard one will also be suitable for finishing coating - anyway, the total thickness of the base will be within the normal range. Moreover, the intersection of fibers gives the effect of plywood, which eliminates deflection under the influence of loads.
The construction of the subfloor can also be carried out on floor slabs, since the flooring in this case does not require either supports or joists.
On the ground: we provide a basement, insulation
When installing the floors of the first floors, it is often rough. The schematically generalized design of his “pie” looks like this, starting from bottom to top:
- well-compacted river sand bedding – 50–70 mm;
- or crushed stone – 100–120 mm;
- rough concrete screed – 50–70 mm;
- thermal insulation - depending on the region of location;
- finishing screed – minimum thickness– 50 mm, reinforced with mesh, cell – 10x10 cm.
If there is no basement and there are no special loads expected on the ground floor; rough screed as such does not need to be done. In these cases, the filled expanded clay is poured with a liquid solution of cement and sand, taken in a ratio of 1:2, allowed to harden and the subsequent layers continue to be laid, starting with waterproofing.
If you plan to lay a heated floor, then you need to provide a gap of 10–20 mm between the subfloor and the foundation. It is usually filled with foamed polyethylene or polyurethane. This is done in order to prevent concrete from cracking during thermal expansion.
An important point is also the level of the finishing screed.
- If the base is not insulated, the screed is placed above the level of the top of the base. Otherwise, a “bridge” of cold will form in this place and the wall will freeze.
- With an insulated base there are no restrictions.
Insulation of the subfloor
With any technology, roughing and finishing should be located at different levels:
- draft,
- free space,
- finishing
Thermal protection of the floor is provided by filling this void with insulation. Before installation, the subfloor is additionally treated with an antiseptic, even using waste motor oils, and lay a vapor barrier.
It is not recommended to use this option in a residential building due to the persistent specific “aroma”.
Mineral wool is considered the best insulation option, although it can be replaced
- any other synthetic insulation that is not subject to rotting;
- loose expanded clay or;
- hard foam.
Ventilation holes should be provided in the corners.
Waterproofing is an important stage of a warm home
Waterproofing in rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms, requires special attention. The choice of technologies is quite wide. For example, coating waterproofing using special penetrating compounds, or waterproofing with synthetic components such as polyurethane, epoxy resin and others. Coating polymer-cement waterproofing with either quick-setting elements or synthetic additives is considered the most effective. The latter are especially relevant for houses with an unstable foundation.
The subfloor, along with the walls and roof of the house, is the basis of the entire structure. No creaking or any deformation flooring over time - the result of a high-quality and reliable installation of the subfloor in the house. The main thing is to choose the right method for its construction, based on the type of structure and the conditions of future operation.
Despite the variety of interpretations of this concept, the subfloor is the basis for laying the finishing floor covering.
Depending on the purpose of the house, the subfloor can be:
- single-layer, consisting of a plank flooring or concrete base, on top of which a finishing coating in the form of plywood or fiberboard is laid. This floor structure is used in periodic residence buildings in warm time year type country houses, or in combination with a well-insulated basement;
- multilayer, characterized by a single-layer coating with the creation of additional layers of hydro- and thermal insulation.
Thus, for arranging the subfloor in a private house, only a multi-layer structure is used, while in multi-storey buildings a single-layer option is quite suitable.
Methods for installing rough coating
Regardless of the number of layers, creating the base of the subfloor occurs in one of the following ways:
- dry. The work of laying the floor is based on the use of wooden components (timbers, beams, boards, etc.). In this case, auxiliary elements in the form of pillars and other elements can be created using concrete mortar or brick;
- wet. The subfloor is laid by concreting a pre-prepared base.
Creating a rough coating using a dry or wet method can be done in different ways, therefore, before settling on one or another option, you need to become familiar with the intricacies of laying each of them.
Installation of rough coating using the dry method
Currently, the creation of a sub-base for a finished floor is carried out in several ways, differing both in technology and installation speed.
Along floor beams
The main structural element of the subfloor is the floor beams, which are fully or partially embedded in the walls of the structure.
The technology for laying the subfloor is as follows:
- We make the side of the beams intended for laying the finished floor as level as possible to avoid unwanted distortions.
- Along the top of the beams, perpendicular to their location, we make grooves for laying lags in increments of 60-100 cm.
- To the bottom of the log, on both sides, we attach cranial bars 4-5 cm wide. Instead of bars, you can use boards. In this case, the width of the boards is selected taking into account the width of the logs in such a way that, after fixing, the edges of the boards protrude beyond the boundaries of the bar on one side and the other by 4 cm.
- We lay pre-sawn boards into the resulting squares.
- We cover the prepared base with a vapor barrier material, fixing it above the level of the finished floor. The seams are joined with an overlap followed by gluing with tape.
- We place insulation between the joists. If the height allows, then 2 layers of thermal insulation can be laid. In this case, a distance of 2 cm should remain between the insulation and the upper edge of the joist, which plays the role of ventilation. If the insulation is flush with the top of the joist, then ventilation gap is created by fixing counter-battens 1.5-2 cm thick to the joists.
- A layer of waterproofing is laid on top, which is attached in the same way as a vapor barrier.
- On top of the waterproofing we place a finished floor made of plywood, fiberboard or other materials.
This technology allows you to reliably isolate the subfloor from the ground, increasing its service life. In addition, the arrangement of the floor along the beams gives additional strength to the entire structure, being an integral element of the house frame.
However, the use of a floor system on beams does not provide good sound insulation, since any floor vibrations are transmitted through the beams to the walls.
A slightly different option for laying a subfloor video:
Based on
In most cases, laying the subfloor in brick house produced on the base strip foundation or grillage. In addition, the installation of a floor along the base is accompanied by the construction of support pillars, which increase the strength of the structure.
The order of work is as follows:
1. Select the method of laying the lags. The placement of the logs on the foundation base is preceded by the manufacture bottom trim from thin boards or timber. For subsequent fastening of the logs in the harness, it is necessary to make grooves, the depth of which corresponds to the width of the beam. When laying logs on a grillage, you must first cover it with roofing material in 2 layers.
2. Mark the places where the joists will be laid. The spacing of the timber depends on the type and width thermal insulation material, as well as on the thickness of the boards that will be laid between the fixed joists. Based on this, the thicker the boards, the shorter the laying step will be. Marking the future location of the logs is done with a pencil along the strapping or with chalk along a grillage covered with waterproofing. According to the marks made, between the opposite walls, we stretch the fishing line, indicating the axes of the lag placement.
3. We outline the locations of the supports. First, we level the soil inside the room, after which we begin marking. The first pillar, like the subsequent ones, is removed from the foundation by no more than 1 m. In this case, the axis of the log should pass through the center of the future support. To do this, using a plumb line or tape measure, if the distance from the ground to the fishing line is no more than 0.5 m, mark a line on the ground parallel to the axis of the future log. From the line marked on the ground, as well as along the line from the center of the support, mark 20 cm in both directions and install pegs. Thus, the dimensions of one support pillar will be 40x40 cm.
4. We arrange the foundation for the support. In the places marked under the posts, we remove the soil to a depth of 35-40 cm. Upon completion of this operation, we thoroughly compact the soil at the bottom of each hole. We drain the foundation by filling the hole first with coarse gravel and then with sand. In this case, the thickness of the layer of individual bedding is 10 cm. Each layer is thoroughly compacted. We construct formwork protruding 5-10 cm above the ground level. We install inside the formwork reinforced frame, placing it just below the center, and fill concrete mixture. After a week, the formwork can be removed.
If the support is completely cast from concrete, then the formwork is built to a height equal to the distance from the ground to the lag line.
5. We erect a brick support. We lay 2 layers of roofing material on the hardened foundation, apply cement mortar and lay the bricks in 2 rows, continuing the laying to the top of the support. However, we place the top row of bricks so that they lie perpendicular to the joists.
When constructing supports, it is necessary to ensure that the top of the pillars is located at the same level as the base for laying the logs.
6. Prepare the supports for laying the logs. We cover the top of the posts with roofing felt, on top of which we attach sealing gaskets from any available materials. The use of gaskets increases the soundproofing characteristics of the subfloor.
7. Install logs. First, we place the logs near the walls, ensuring that the distance of support of these logs above the base or grillage is at least 10 cm. If this value is less, then grooves will have to be made in the ceiling walls for the missing length. We check the horizontal laying of individual logs and their placement relative to each other using a hydraulic level. If the level is maintained, then fix the beam using metal corner To wooden base with self-tapping screws, and to brick, concrete - with dowel-nails or anchors. We check again the level of the fixed logs, after which we stretch a fishing line between them, which will serve as a certain horizontal level for laying the remaining logs.
There should be a gap of 2 cm between the joists and the wall, compensating negative influence various factors.
8. Attach the cranial bars to the bottom of the joists. Instead of bars, you can use boards whose width exceeds the width of the log by 8 cm.
9. We lay boards into the finished sheathing.
10 Laying subsequent layers is carried out by analogy with the first option.
Advantages this method consist in a small load on the foundation, due to the relative lightness of the structure, as well as the absence high humidity, thanks to which the fulfillment of others finishing works carried out as usual. The only negative is that such a structure cannot be built and operated in conditions high level constant humidity, otherwise the durability of the structure will be very conditional.
Despite the labor intensity and duration of the work, the subfloor in a frame house is produced in the same way.
By floor slabs
If the basement or interfloor ceiling is made using reinforced concrete slabs, then the construction of the subfloor is greatly facilitated. In addition, the presence of floor slabs allows the use of fairly new methods of constructing a rough covering, among which the most widespread are prefabricated floors on adjustable joists.
When constructing such a floor system, the work is carried out as follows:
- V concrete base, after 50-60 cm, we deepen special pins, the diameter of which is 8-10 mm;
- in the bars, at a distance equal to the pitch of the pins, we drill through holes;
- We begin to fix the logs on pins placed on opposite sides of the room;
- We correct the horizontality of the lag by rotating the bolts located on each pin with a special wrench;
- we connect the logs together with a fishing line, which will serve as a guide for installing the remaining bars;
- after installing all the beams and checking their horizontality, use a grinder to cut off the pins protruding on top of the bars;
- We lay the boards or plywood on the joists with a distance of 2 cm from the walls. The joining of the plywood sheets is carried out on the joists. In this case, more than 3 angles should not converge at one point;
- The plywood is fastened to the timber using self-tapping screws.
The gaps between the walls and the plank flooring formed during the laying of the rough covering are covered with insulation.
Thanks to this method, a high speed of installation of the rough covering is achieved, good ventilation is ensured due to the free space between the concrete base and the joists, and there is no creaking of the floorboards. However, the cost of such a design will not please everyone.
Thus, when creating a subfloor, it is worth considering the advantages and disadvantages inherent in one or another installation method.
Installation of subfloor using the wet method
Laying a subfloor in a wooden house using concrete screed possible in 2 ways.
On the ground
The process of constructing a subfloor on the ground is as follows:
- we level the base inside the perimeter of the foundation and then compact it;
- fill it with fine crushed stone to a height of 10-20 cm, compact it;
- lay 10-15 cm of sand on top of the crushed stone, moisten it and compact it;
- we lay a vapor barrier layer using polymer-bitumen membranes or PVC, so that the edges of the membranes extend onto the wall, to the entire height of the future floor;
- We place thermal insulation in the form of mineral wool, expanded clay and other materials;
- we lay polyethylene film, creating a waterproofing layer;
- lay the reinforcing mesh;
- fill the layers concrete mortar to a height of 5-10 cm;
- Cover with plastic wrap to cure evenly. During the month, while the concrete screed gains strength, it must be moistened with water to prevent cracking of the concrete;
- After a month, we level the floor with a self-leveling mixture, after which has dried, you can begin laying the finishing coating.
The use of this method is possible if the house is located on stable soil with a low level groundwater. This arrangement should not be used in country houses, which in winter period are not heated, as a result of which the soil freezes and the concrete screed begins to gradually collapse.
By floor slab
The technology for performing work when laying a floor on a floor is somewhat different from creating a screed on the ground and is carried out in the following order:
- we level the base of the slab using a concrete screed if there are significant differences;
- after the screed has hardened, we arrange a vapor barrier layer;
- the next layer is insulation, on top of which a plastic film is laid;
- fill the layers with concrete mortar to 3-5 cm;
- After a month you can lay any floor covering.
Concrete floors in the house, especially rough ones, are characterized by high strength and durability, since they are protected from damage by the finishing floor covering. At the same time, the installation of floors using concrete screed requires preliminary carrying out appropriate calculations about bearing capacity structures, since concrete is a rather heavy material.
Thus, the installation of a subfloor is an essential point in the construction of a house or in the process of renovation, the quality of which determines the length of its service life, the reduction of heat losses through the basement and many other factors.
- 1 Options for rough screed in a brick house
- 1.1 On the ground
- 1.2 Dry method
- 1.3 For adjustable joists
- 1.4 Dry screed
- 1.5 Wet screed
- 2 In a wooden house
- 3 Videos
In this article we will tell you how to properly make a subfloor in a wooden and brick house, we will look at various methods, and also show photos and video instructions.
The subfloor is a leveled base prepared for laying flooring. Therefore for high-quality execution self-repair, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the construction of the subfloor.
Options for rough screed in a brick house
Options for rough screed in a brick house
A rough screed in a brick house can be made using various technologies. The final choice will depend on what finishing material will be used. For example, if the floor is laid ceramic tiles, then you will need to construct a concrete subfloor. If you want a wooden floor, then a dry screed is constructed accordingly. You can read more about this or that type of rough screed below.
On the ground
On the ground
This screed method is considered economical since there is no need to install beams. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen the soil by making a sand cushion and providing insulation.
A subfloor on the ground is only suitable if the ground is completely dry.
Sand compaction
So, before the actual pouring, the soil is compacted. This is important to do to prevent it from shrinking. Afterwards a sand cushion is made. After slightly moistening the sand, use a vibrator to compact it. As a result, it should decrease to 25%. For greater strength, granite can be added as the next layer.
The next step is waterproofing. It is necessary to prevent moisture from the soil from penetrating into the house. For example, you can use a polymer membrane or rolled bitumen. The material is laid with an overlap of up to 200 mm. Also, the waterproofing should extend to the walls, to a height of 200 mm. After pouring the screed, all remnants will need to be trimmed.
Preparing for the screed
The subfloor is poured over the ground in a thin layer. It will serve as a platform for hydro- and vapor barrier. For rough screed, it is recommended to use class B concrete. Its filler is crushed stone with a diameter of up to 22 mm. Optimal thickness The rough layer on the ground is considered to be 50 mm. Filling is carried out according to the level. When the screed has dried, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the floor, for example, a polymer-bitumen membrane, which contains fiberglass or polyester. The use of this material will allow significant savings on heating costs in the future. After this, insulation is performed with foam plastic or other suitable insulation.
Dry method
Laying the subfloor on joists. This method requires less time and effort than a concrete screed. In addition, no water is used during its implementation, therefore the humidity remains unchanged and other repair work can be carried out at the same time. The logs are mounted on beams or on a concrete base.
Subfloor on joists
When laying a subfloor on joists, you need to know some nuances:
- you will need to make horizontal markings using a stretched cord or a horizontal level throughout the entire course of work;
- It is worth checking the quality of drying of the wood used;
- to avoid condensation, it is worth protecting the logs with a simple waterproofing agent;
- in the living room, the logs should be spaced in increments of 35-40 cm, and their size varies in width from 8 to 10 cm, and in thickness from 2.5 to 6 cm;
- in the case of uneven reinforced concrete pavement, the installation of the joists is carried out on pads made of pre-glued plywood;
- holes are made at the base of the floor for plastic dowels into which the logs will be attached using screws;
- if necessary, insulating material is used.
As a rule, the subfloor is laid from chipboard, the hardness of which is determined based on the finish coating.
For adjustable joists
Installing adjustable joists
It is becoming increasingly popular and is mounted using strong and reliable plastic screws. A floor made in this way will never creak, and the work will not take much time.
Installation process:
- Each lag is prepared separately: a hole is drilled in it and a screw is screwed into it;
- The logs are laid in place at a distance of 1 cm from the wall surface;
As an alternative to an adjustable floor, a floor made of chipboard mounted on bushings with internal thread. Thus, at plywood sheet legs appear, but at the same time it is able to withstand enormous loads.
Dry screed
Dry screed
This method makes it possible to level out all defects in the base, and any temperature conditions are suitable for its installation.
Dry method Process:
Wet screed
Wet screed
This method is widely used since all materials are freely available and are relatively inexpensive.
Their installation is carried out in the following way:
A self-leveling floor can also be used, which simultaneously plays the role of a finishing and rough screed.
It is poured onto a previously cleaned and primed base. After pouring the solution, the surface is leveled using a special needle roller, which will rid the surface of all air bubbles.
The thickness of the layer of such a screed is no more than 3 mm, respectively, and its drying time is much less than that of a cement screed and is no more than 14 days.
In a wooden house
Subfloor wooden house
In a private house, it is necessary to provide good ventilation in the cellar by making holes there. If there is damp soil in the basement, a clay or concrete insulating layer is laid.
It is also worth waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt or other similar material.
All wooden elements of the floor structure must be treated twice with an antiseptic.
Laying the subfloor in a wooden house is done using boards, on top of which a waterproofing material, material for thermal and vapor insulation, is laid.
These are all the main options for installing a subfloor; which one is suitable is up to you to decide, based on the finishing floor covering.
- how to paint a wooden floor in a house;
- how to insulate a balcony floor with expanded clay;
- how to make a polymer floor with your own hands.
The process of constructing a subfloor is presented in the following videos:
The foundation has been poured, the walls have been raised, the roof has been installed and windows and doors have been installed. You can start laying floors in a wooden house with your own hands. This stage of work is not difficult, but requires careful attention to detail.
Proper installation of the floor pie is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-cover the entire coating in a few years. Lack of underground ventilation will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.
Subfloor - what is it?
It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes the elements of the building unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not embed logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed someday. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.
It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by organizing sufficiently sized vents in the basement or foundation. According to the standards, in the underground without forced ventilation The area of the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the area of the subfloor. Otherwise, regardless of waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unflattering.
When the flooring is ready, you can begin insulation. But before laying the insulation, it is necessary to resolve the issue of protecting it from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on the adjacent wood.
Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what is the difference?
Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barrier films on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?
Under hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-proof films, you can even use simple polyethylene films. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from the wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture outside are not useful here - all the evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.
But on top of the insulation it is necessary to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (minimum 5 cm). If the joist boards are not high enough, a counter batten is nailed along them, on top of the membrane, on which the finished floor is laid.
Floor insulation - why is it necessary?
Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises up. By this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!
All due to the same convection - air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and energy resources are also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.
Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:
- perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;
- polystyrene foam and its derivatives are not susceptible to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, they are lightweight and inexpensive, but they create a “greenhouse effect” in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.
Bulk insulation is laid on a continuous flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, you just need to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.
Finish floor and its types
Depending on the desired interior design, you can lay almost any floor in a wooden house:
Wood floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to install good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and bathroom – places with high humidity.
In addition, there are variations with the installation of warm wooden floors and even concrete screed on the joists. So the choice depends only on construction skills and design preferences.
DIY technology for laying floors in a wooden house
Warm floors are comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry the winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games on the street. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it would be a shame not to use it!
Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality
In a wooden house, it is difficult to make a warm floor in a concrete screed, but it is quite possible:
- The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the joists in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finished floor, will be about 150 kg/sq.m, and this does not take into account furniture and residents. When pouring concrete, the pitch of the beams is halved, and the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).
- A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is to not install a subfloor. It is enough to secure the vapor barrier film along the bottom with slats so that the insulation boards do not sag.
- Dense waterproofing is laid on top of the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all places where it is attached to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.
- Slate or cement bonded particle board is placed on the waterproofing - they have the best adhesion to concrete. Formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. Reinforcing mesh is laid on the same slate substrate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
- A “snail” of heated floor pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the mesh with ordinary cable clamps. It is important not to forget to lay between the formwork and the reinforcement damper tape– to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.
- To protect yourself, a test run of underfloor heating systems with increased pressure is carried out. If no leaks are found, you can start filling.
- After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it using a long rule. Concrete needs to be watered for 1-2 weeks to gain strength. After a month, you can begin laying any floor covering.
Wooden floors - simple and beautiful
If the floor joists are not strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, no need to worry! After all, you can make a dry heated floor with water heating. To do this, you will need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. Laminate is laid on top. The entire process is presented in detail in the video:
Building a wooden house is initially a choice in favor of environmentally friendly materials. When building a wooden house, an important issue remains the installation of a warm and even floor, which will promote natural air exchange and maintain a favorable microclimate in the premises. How can you make a floor in a wooden house with your own hands so that it meets all the qualities of a reliable coating and lasts a long time, while maintaining an attractive appearance?
Installation Basics
All possible options Floors suitable for a wooden house are divided into two types: planks and concrete. Wooden floors are similar in structure to a layer cake made from several components:
- Subfloor, insulation (thermal insulation, waterproofing);
- The finished floor, the floor covering itself.
If construction is necessary, all heating elements and cables must be additionally laid between the layers.
The floor in a wooden house can be built on logs or on poles. The last method is used when the structure is built without a concrete foundation. WITH monolithic foundation everything is much simpler, but if for some reason you don’t have time to pour a concrete base, you will have to use one of the options for laying the floor on beams. Either beams inserted into the walls (span width 4 m) or beams with supporting pillars that look like a columnar foundation are used.
Laying on support pillars. What kind of floors there are in a wooden house can be seen in the photos taken during the repair work. Based on the type of construction, single-layer and double-layer floors are distinguished. The covering in one layer is installed on logs or without them - this is directly determined by the thickness of the boards and the pitch between the beams. If the distance between the beams does not exceed 60 cm, then when building a house, the boards can be laid on the beams themselves.
When constructing a two-layer floor, an additional subfloor is installed. What is it? The subfloor can be considered the basis for the finishing layer. Insulation is placed on the rough layer attached to the underside of the beams. An expanded clay layer 8 cm high is suitable for this role. To completely insulate the floor, filler is placed in the space between the rough and finishing layers, and a gap of at least 2 cm is required to ensure air circulation.
Arrangement and insulation of the rough covering of a wooden house. The floor, concrete or wooden, which is built in a house with your own hands, needs. Among modern insulation materials mineral mats are most often used and mineral wool, polyurethane. The desire to insulate the floor as much as possible must comply with building codes. You cannot lay a thick layer of insulation that fills the entire distance between the rough and finishing layers. There must be a gap of a couple of centimeters.
Floors in a wooden house should be characterized by high strength and also be well ventilated. This is why a rough layer is made. The construction of subfloors in a wooden house is considered necessary for several reasons. Firstly, they provide a rigid frame and serve as the basis for insulation, insulation and finishing layer. They also create an air gap, which ensures heat retention inside the building, eliminates the processes of rotting of boards and distortion of the house. All this ensures the preservation and durability of the entire floor covering.
Construction of the rough layer
The choice of constructing a subfloor with your own hands is determined by the type of foundation formed during the construction of the house itself. The rough layer can be installed both on floors in the form of reinforced concrete slabs or beams, and on the ground. In any case, preparatory work must first be carried out.
Important element preparation - make ventilation holes. The preparatory stage before installing the subfloor includes the device ventilation holes in the walls of the building, which are decorated on the outside with decorative grilles. All wooden structures, including the walls of the log house, must be treated with an antiseptic.
The calculation and purchase of materials for the rough layer are made based on the existing base for its laying. If the floor is laid on the ground, then it is necessary to use a design that involves a double subfloor. Initially, the logs are installed on supports (bricks can be used), small pieces of boards are laid on them as a shock absorber, and only then the bars and logs are laid. Each stage of work must be accompanied by constant monitoring of the horizon level so that the installed floor does not have a slope.
In order for a wooden floor to serve for a long time, you need to treat all parts with an antiseptic. The materials used for subfloors in a wooden house usually require additional processing. The logs and beams are pre-planed or cut on a machine, removing bevels and slopes. Ideally, they should be absolutely even. Before installation, all parts are treated with antiseptic preparations to prevent the formation of fungus and premature destruction of the wood.
The subfloor in a wooden house is assembled from the following materials:
- Brick - pillars with parameters 40x40x20 cm are made from it, which are placed on a cement mortar;
- Waterproofing material - for this purpose, choose dense polyethylene or other similar material that can prevent the lag from rotting;
- Boards or plywood - used directly for laying subfloor layers (the first layer can be made from boards, the second from plywood);
- Corners and bolts (metal) - on them brick pillars logs are attached;
- Insulation - laid together with another layer of waterproofing on the bottom layer of the subfloor.
The amount of all materials is calculated based on the area of the building and the parameters of the installed logs.
Installation of subfloor
How to make a floor in a wooden house yourself? You should start with the installation of the rough part. Logs must be installed if the beams are initially fixed to the walls of the log house, the reason for this is the large distance between the beams themselves. To give the future floor rigidity, brick supports are pre-installed under the joists.
Installation of joists for the subfloor. Attaching the joists is the most important step in the construction of the floor. The quality of the future flooring will depend on the quality of the work performed. It is best to attach the logs to the foundation. To do this, first a frame is made from long boards around the entire perimeter, and then the logs themselves are attached to it with metal corners or bolts.
At this stage of installing subfloors in a wooden house, it is required to retreat 2 cm from each wall. All resulting cracks are laid with insulation. Rigid fastening of the logs is not required at this moment; they must be secured so that there is no displacement during operation.
This method is used when the distance of support for the logs exceeds 10 cm; if this distance is less, then the logs are installed the same way, but an additional beam is placed on top, which is fixed in the walls of the house. The places where the beam connects to the wall of the log house are measured, after which a cut is made in accordance with the dimensions, adding 2 cm for the expansion of the wood from moisture.
When the joists are installed, you can attach the cranial bars, which are smaller in size than the joists. The bars are attached to the side at the bottom of the joists. Then boards are placed on them, which are not secured. Such flooring provides the tree with the opportunity to naturally expand.
If you follow the technology for laying the subfloor even when expanding wooden elements moisture will not damage the structure.
After laying the first layer of subfloors, the insulation is laid with your own hands. First, waterproofing is laid over the entire surface of the floor, which is fixed to the walls. The width of its layer on the wall should be equal to the height of the entire floor structure up to the final finish. It is recommended to secure the waterproofing above this level, and then simply cut off the excess. The joints of the material are fastened with a construction stapler.
Thermal insulation is required. All laid layers are covered with a vapor barrier, which is also attached to the walls of the log house. The joints of the material are glued with tape, and it is fastened with a construction stapler. If the insulation has been laid so that there is a ventilation gap left, then after completing the installation of the vapor barrier, you can proceed to laying the second layer of the subfloor. If the insulation was laid at the level of the logs, then first you need to install special slats on the sides - they will press down the insulation so that the necessary gap is formed. Detailed Guide How to lay the floor in an ordinary wooden house can be found in various video tutorials.
Laying the second layer of subfloor from boards or plywood is done in the same way as the logs were secured. 2 cm is also removed from the walls; insulation is placed in the resulting gaps.
Finished floor installation
After the subfloor has been installed in a wooden house, you can proceed to arranging the finishing layer. For finished flooring, it is recommended to use boards made by milling. This floor layer is laid at a height of up to 5 cm from the rough flooring.
To carry out the work, take boards 4-5 cm thick and 10-15 cm wide, made with a “groove-tenon” type connection - such a connection facilitates installation and guarantees the reliability of laying the floor. In boards with reverse side Initially, special recesses are made - vents, which provide free air exchange under the coating. Other types of boards are also suitable for the finished floor: tongue-and-groove with a rebate or with a trapezoidal or straight segmental tenon. It is more difficult to assemble a finished floor from such boards in a wooden house, because they do not have a vent on the reverse side, and their back parts are not processed, as a result of which they will not fit tightly against the joists.
A floor installed from such material will be less reliable. Most difficult option in terms of labor costs, installation of a finishing coating from unedged boards. In this case, it is best to spend time processing the front sides of the material.
Finished floor boards are placed on logs; they must be placed in annual layers in different directions; this will make your floor smooth, strong and durable. Fiberboard sheets are often used for finished floors. In this case, the space between the walls and the floor will have to be covered with a batten.
The skirting boards are joined at right angles, then they are cut along the length and corners and connected at an angle of 45 degrees. They are nailed to the walls at a distance of 70 cm, and the joints are additionally secured.
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After completing all the work on installing the subfloor and finishing floor, you can gradually begin finishing. The final finishing of the floor in a wooden house can be carried out in different ways. For a wooden house, it would seem logical to choose flooring made from the same material. In this case, you have three options for finishing the floor: parquet, parquet board or laminate.
Parquet flooring is called not only the most respectable, but also one of the most durable. The parquet elements are attached to the base of the floor with glue and, if necessary, additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. After laying the parquet, it is coated with a special varnish; for the greatest protection against abrasion, the varnish can be applied not in one layer, but in several. Proper installation of parquet ensures its operation for 20 years.
Parquet board is a type of parquet, but is not made from solid wood. This is a special design of three layers, the top of which is veneer valuable species wood, varnished. Such a board is easier to install and, if necessary, much easier to dismantle.
The third option for finishing the floor for a wooden house is laminate with a wood pattern. It is based on a fiberboard panel protected from below with moisture-resistant paper. Above the fiberboard panel there is decorative paper imitating the pattern of wood, which is coated with acrylate resin on top. Laminate is the most budget option floor finishing from all of the above.