Installation of a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard with your own hands. How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling? How to make a rectangular suspended ceiling from plasterboard

From the author: Hello, dear readers. As we see, time does not stand still. Science, technology, fashion are moving forward. In general, everything is developing - and of course, this matter has not spared the issue of housing arrangement. On the contrary, this area has developed so much and become popular that we began to see masterpieces of design on every corner.

The beauty of the interior decoration is simply mesmerizing, which naturally does not leave us indifferent. We begin to desire the same changes in our homes with great impatience. Unfortunately, all these delights cost a considerable amount, and often half of it is the cost of the work itself. In order to eliminate this factor and save money, today we will talk about self-production.

By entrusting this work to yourself, you will only need to spend money on material that is not so expensive. Well, you will now learn how to do this easily and simply - moreover, we will teach you how to make various geometric bodies and expand the boundaries of your imagination.

Types of structures

To help you decide on the future design of the ceiling, we will tell you what designs generally exist and what are the features of their manufacture. In general, there are not many of them, but it is the forms that determine their individuality.

The selected type must be specifically selected to suit the parameters of your room, taking into account the location front door and windows, arrangement of lighting and ventilation devices. Well, more on that later, but now, let's tell you about the two main types of execution.

The first type is concave bodies. They give the impression that one or another figure was cut out of the thickness of the main ceiling. It can be anything, but the most popular are circles and stars. They are usually made around the main lighting, thereby emphasizing its beauty and creating a chic shadow on the walls. Also used for combination with other types of ceilings, for example, with stretch ceilings.

The second type is convex bodies. More common compared to the first category, since manufacturing absorbs less space rooms, is cheaper in terms of materials costs and gives more room for imagination. Such elements coexist perfectly with other types of ceilings.

Well, now, let's understand what kind of constructions there are:

A rectangular perimeter frame is the simplest, and at the same time, the most common way to decorate your ceiling. It's very easy to do and doesn't require large quantity material. The work consists of creating even angles and lines, which does not require any skill at all, will allow you to create beautiful lighting, and, if desired, hidden lighting. This ceiling is ideal for combination with stretch PVC films.
The wavy perimeter frame is structurally the same as the rectangular one. The main difference is that instead of straight lines, wavy ones are made, like a drawing pattern. It looks very impressive, especially when using backlighting. Naturally, suspended ceiling also ideal, especially blue color. This combination with lighting, willy-nilly, resembles a pool on the ceiling, in general - super.
The circle is a classic, so to speak, the pioneer of this art. The circles look laconic and fit into any interior. What adds some zest is that there are two contradictions on the ceiling, a circle and a rectangle - that is, the walls. The combination always looks fresh and unusual. The use of spotlights along the edge of the circle adds special beauty. It can be either empty or solid - and sometimes combine both.
with sharp edges - came into fashion quite recently and have already won the hearts of many. They look like massive geometric bodies, either adjacent to a plane, or floating 10–15 cm away. The tilt or disproportion of the bodies also makes this design unusual. It looks fashionable and surprises any guest with its unusualness, since the recent emergence of fashion for such figures has not allowed them to spread much.
Podiums - angular or rectangular. Cover part of the room with a smooth or angular ceiling podium, which is placed either above dining tables, or in the kitchen, above the workplace. It is also possible above a soft corner, and the line of the podium should correspond to the line of the object below it. During manufacture, it must be illuminated with several additional lighting spotlights.
Combining systems. All of the above types can be combined with each other, resulting in unusual, so to speak, one-piece masterpieces. When using this style, the main thing is not to overdo it with the elements, since a large number of figures and frills in a room with a small area will look ridiculous. You can dilute this whole “undertaking” with other types of ceilings, for example, suspended or grilyato. The only downside is that their cost is very high, although you wouldn’t go to great lengths for such beauty.
Cornices are not exactly a special subgroup, but they are also worth attention. It is a system that hides the cornice. But it can be so unusual that only its location on the ceiling will become a true exclusive of your apartment. It can be wavy, imitate flames or a waterfall.

As you can see, the variety of types and shapes is huge, but we will convince you that it is easy and simple to make it all with your own hands, we will convince you in the following points. In the meantime, let’s figure out what tool we need for the job.

Required tools and materials

To carry out the work you will need a very small set of tools; you will find most of them in the tool box. Well, if you don’t have enough, you can always get it from a neighbor, your parents, or, in extreme cases, rent it. So, you will need:

perforator with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm;
a screwdriver with a high-quality bit (an attachment for tightening screws);
construction or stationery knife with spare blades;
beating cord or millimeter nylon thread with blue;
long level, you will need at least a meter level;
laser level, and since this is a rare phenomenon in everyday life, an ordinary hydraulic level made of a PVC tube and two glass tubes will do;
tape measure, pencil and marker;
metal scissors;
pliers;
Phillips screwdriver;
hammer;
spatula 50 cm and 10 cm;
bucket and whisk for mixing putty;
grater for sanding.

The following materials will be needed:

plasterboard sheets;
metal profile UD-27;
metal profile CD-60;
plastic anchor corner;
aluminum perforated corner;
primary and secondary putty;
black metal screws, with frequent threads, for fastening drywall;
plastic with a cap, impact dowels with a screw;
“bugs” - small metal screws for twisting metal structures;
ceiling mounts “pawn”;
trowel mesh, abrasive fraction 260–280.

Let me make a reservation right away: in any hardware store they may begin to impose on you various fasteners and parts that simplify installation. Skip them and you'll save a lot of money. We have already listed everything we will need, and there is no need to buy more than that. Any fastening or connecting parts are made from the same profile.

A few words about electrics

The electrical part requires much more professional knowledge and skills, and if you do not have them, read and expand your knowledge a little.

So, let’s list the main points when installing electrics - so to speak, tips that you can’t do without:

First of all, you need to check what kind of wires are laid in the apartment. Soviet-era buildings were usually paved with aluminum, and modern houses- copper. To find out, open the lid of the junction box, unscrew the electrical tape on the twists - you will see what kind of wire you have;
Plan the location of everyone and their groups in advance. This is done so that you know which lamp will be turned on by the additional lighting key, and which by the main one. Also calculate the length LED strip- if, of course, you have backlighting;
wires should be laid in a corrugated pipe, and all connections should be made in junction boxes. This is done according to fire safety rules, and to avoid involuntary contact of electricity with the metal frame;
if you initially had aluminum wiring in your apartment, and it was decided to make the lighting system from copper, then the copper-aluminum connection should be made only through the terminal block;
if you plan to use led lamps, then it will be enough to use a cable cross-section equal to 0.75 mm2 copper - if you are going to use tungsten spotlights and high-power incandescent lamps, you should select a copper cross-section of at least 1.5 mm2;
using tungsten incandescent lamps, you will have the opportunity to install power regulators and be able to adjust the brightness of the lamps from maximum to twilight;
using tungsten soffits, you cannot do without the system soft start- a special device mounted in electrical circuit. It will save dozens of lamps a year, since without it they burn out very quickly.

Manufacturing of structures

The work on the production of all the elements that we talked about earlier are of the same type; only a few features distinguish them. Therefore, for simplicity of presentation, we will list the general stages of installation, and then analyze the features. So, to contemplate our ideas, we will need to sequentially perform the following steps:

Some features:

when making smooth lines, for final finishing of corners, use anchor corners, and for finishing straight lines - perforated metal;
when making only a podium with a smooth or straight line, without creating a second level and niche, the smooth wall is mounted first, and only then the crossbars and ribs are screwed on;
when making a hidden cornice bordering the tension PVC, do not use a profile, use a thick wooden beam;
If PVC ceiling is adjacent to the wall, then it would be better to glue the wallpaper after installing the ceiling;
If desired, you can solder different PVC textures, so think carefully about the design - maybe you will like soldering in the form of a sine wave. Remember, there are no limits;
illumination can be done not only from under gypsum board, it can also be located under PVC or even visible through patterned perforations in the film.

That's all dear friends. I hope our article will be useful, and finally, I would like to warn you: if you have not done such work before and do not know at all how to handle power tools, it is better to entrust the work to professionals, as this is dangerous to your health. Thanks for your attention and good luck!

There are many options for how to place a TV in a room: install it on a special stand, hang it from the wall on brackets, or build it into a niche. The latter method is notable for the fact that it allows you to hide wires and sockets, harmoniously fit the screen into the surrounding space, and often also decorate the interior in an original way. In addition, arranging a plasterboard niche does not require large expenses or special skills - you just need to be able to hold a knife and a screwdriver in your hands, and we will talk about installation technology and design options in this article.

Making a niche for a TV from gypsum plasterboard with your own hands

To make a beautiful portal for a TV, you need to prepare:

— aluminum profile grades CW (ceiling-wall) and UW (guide), for curved elements - flexible;
- components - connectors, hangers, extensions, corners;
— fasteners (screws for gypsum boards and profiles, dowels);
- plasterboard sheets - standard, if necessary - arched;
— primer and putty for drywall;
— serpyanka tape for sealing seams, joints, internal corners;
- finishing materials.

The tools you will need are a hammer drill (to drill holes in the wall), a level (preferably a laser), a screwdriver, a knife for cutting drywall, scissors or a hacksaw, sandpaper for sanding plasterboard, painting thread, a spatula, and a roller for finishing.

First you need to decide on the design of the future niche. It can be protruding, with open corners or recessed. In the second option, you will have to cover most of the wall with plasterboard, but this will make the interior more thoughtful and stylish.

According to the shape there are rectangular horizontal, rectangular vertical, square, oval, curved and complex designs. The standard rules apply here: lines elongated upward visually raise the ceiling, and lines parallel to the floor allow you to expand a narrow wall. Unusual geometry is suitable for rooms with a non-standard layout or spacious rooms.

Around the TV they often arrange additional shelves for placing a stereo system, decor and books. If desired, you can even make a whole shelving unit or cabinets from plasterboard, which will look like a single ensemble next to the niche.

The installation of the structure is carried out in stages. First with laser level and tape measures, markings are applied to the wall, then a metal frame is built according to the drawing. The depth of the niche should be calculated based on the thickness of the TV, adding 5-7 cm for the gap for wires and ventilation. Free space between the wall and the screen is necessary for air to circulate there and cool the equipment. It is also customary to leave space around the monitor - firstly, it is more convenient to hang and remove it, and secondly, after some time you may want to purchase a model with a larger diagonal.

Before starting work, you need to decide where the electrical wiring will be hidden - you can make channels for it or hide it inside plastic baseboard boxes.

The guide profile is installed first, with the dowels placed at a distance of no more than 40 cm from each other. Then vertical elements are attached to the ceiling and floor. The base of a small niche can be made separately, and then installed on the wall.

The next stage is covering the frame with plasterboard, previously cut into appropriate shapes. You should start with small and complex elements. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, the steps between them are 25-30 cm.

When the drywall is installed, it is leveled using putty and primed. Seams and joints are reinforced with serpyanka, the outer edges are closed with perforated metal corners. Starting putty is applied over the primer layer, and finishing putty is applied after sanding.

How to design a niche for a TV

You need to be creative when designing a niche for a TV - it can be partially or completely painted water-based paint, cover with wallpaper, cover with flexible stone, fabric, paint by hand or using stencils, decorate with polyurethane stucco, lay out mosaics or decorative tiles. It is only important to adhere to a sense of style so that the portal does not conflict with the rest of the decor.

Plasterboard niche for TV in the living room

As a rule, in the living room they do not limit themselves to just one recess for the TV screen, but arrange an entire wall - with shelves, interesting lighting, beautiful decor and paintings. This is an excellent alternative to outdated chipboard sets.

Plasterboard construction takes up less space than standard cabinets and shelving, and it looks more modern. In addition, having set the goal of zoning the space of an apartment, it can be installed instead of an internal partition, saving free space, materials and partially replacing furniture. Functional shelves, for example, for books, should be made of wood or durable glass - they will definitely withstand the load and diversify the design.

Depending on the chosen style, the niche for the TV in the living room can be designed in different ways. For example, country music will successfully complement a false fireplace and decorative stone; in modernity, smooth asymmetry will be appropriate; minimalism requires clear rectangular geometry; Provence will be decorated with delicate floral patterns, and classics will be decorated with columns, gilding and stucco.

But with all the splendor of the decoration, the central place should be occupied by the TV. This means that in and around the niche you should avoid clumsy, saturated details - they will compete with the video sequence, causing eye fatigue and irritation. For the same reason, it is better to close large shelves with doors so that the variety of things on them does not cause a feeling of disorder.

Plasterboard niche for TV in the bedroom

In general, the rules for finishing a niche in the bedroom are almost the same as in the living room. The only caveat is that it is advisable to choose softer ones, pastel shades and unobtrusive light. Smooth lines, as well as rounded curves, are subconsciously perceived as safer and calmer than angular designs or sharp breaks. However, this is a matter of taste.

Since the bedroom is usually reserved for small room, it is also better to make the niche compact. On the sides or below the TV you can arrange paired recesses for stereo speakers, and under them there are shelves for discs, magazines and various small items. The remaining space will be filled with photographs, interior candles or figurines.

TV niche lighting

Lighting plays a significant role in the design of a plasterboard niche for a TV, making it noticeable and attractive in the evening. IN modern design The safest LED technology is used in the format of spotlights, diode strips or garlands.

An interesting effect can be achieved with neon threads, characterized by a bright, uniform glow. As a rule, flexible tapes and threads frame the perimeter, placing them in internal corners shelves, behind equipment (monitor, speakers), at the ends of the protruding niche. In this case, the light should be directed at the front wall or to the sides, but in no case at the room - otherwise it will blind the eyes.

The same rule applies to spotlights. They are usually mounted in several pieces at equal intervals, placed inside the recesses, above or below, as well as along the inner edge of the relief elements.

As for the shade of lighting, warm white is considered the most comfortable for the eyes. A yellowish undertone creates a cozy, relaxed atmosphere, although next to it, for example, pink will appear peachy and blue will appear greenish. Cool white imitates harsher daylight and creates crisp shadows without altering the surrounding colors in any way. Neon shades (blue, green, red, purple) are best used only in the living room and turned off while watching TV.

Design of a gypsum plasterboard niche for a TV - photo

In addition to the above, we present to your attention a selection interesting options design of plasterboard structures and niches for TV. From these photos, anyone can choose a design that they would like to repeat at home, in their living room or bedroom. Inspiration and beautiful interiors to you!

Are you planning to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? You can understand: this is a reliable and economical material that allows you to realize the most non-trivial design idea. In order for it not to work out, as in the immortal statement of Viktor Chernomyrdin - “We wanted the best, but it turned out as always” - it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions, which cover in detail all the stages of work for finishing the ceiling surface.

For convenience and clarity, we have provided it with 47 photos, so you will not have any difficulties understanding the material.

Preparing the premises

remove all large objects and furniture that could potentially interfere with work and movement during the installation process;
If it is impossible to carry out the first step, cover the furniture with film to protect it from construction waste, adhesive composition and dust;
clean the ceiling of everything unnecessary: dust, small knots and everything that you are unlikely to get to in the foreseeable future after installation.

Tool preparation

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, so that later you don’t have to regret the crooked fit of the sheets and bad organized lighting? That’s right, the key to successful installation is proper marking and necessary tools at hand.

First, we list everything you need to properly mark out the room:

roulette;
level;
pencil;
painting cord.

Now let’s touch on the mandatory set of directly necessary construction tools:

hacksaw;
perforator;
screwdriver;
scissors.

As you can see, you don’t need anything out of the ordinary to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. A standard set of tools that can be purchased at any construction supermarket.

The only thing that can be added to this list, modest in every sense, is safety glasses. Still, some stages of our step by step instructions include operations that could potentially harm your eyes.

Compliance with safety regulations- this is the basis for performing any type of repair work, so take this recommendation seriously.

Preparation of material

In accordance with how you see your future gypsum board ceiling, prepare plasterboard sheets the right size. Calculate total area building a room is quite easy: the length is multiplied by the width, and the exact size of the pieces of material directly depends on the format of the plasterboard structure that you want to see in your room.

You will also need:

ceiling guide profiles UD;
ceiling main profiles CD;
direct universal hangers or any others in accordance with the layout;
self-tapping screws;
dowels

It should be remembered that UD profiles are attached to the wall along the perimeter, and CDs are inserted into them longitudinally with the required step according to the size of the plasterboard fragments.

Cost table

In order for you to have a rough idea of future expenses and be able to prudently adjust your budget, we offer you a small table that shows the average current prices for the materials used for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard.

Name	Vacation unit	Price
self-tapping screws	packaging (200 pcs.)	from 120 rubles
gypsum board sheets	sheet(3 m2)	from 250 rubles
UD profile	pcs.	from 40 rubles
CD profile	pcs.	from 45 rubles
ceiling hangers	pcs.	from 4 rubles
dowels	packaging (200 pcs.)	from 125 rubles

Marking

A very simple, but quite important step, the correct execution of which determines the final result:

we find the lower corner point on the concrete base of the ceiling;
we make the necessary indentation, guided by practical considerations: how the lamps will be mounted, how many levels there will be in the final structure. Remember that there must be a certain margin of a few centimeters, otherwise making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands will turn out to be very rough and unattractive;
We put a mark using a level; if you have a hydraulic level at hand, then the problem of evenly transferring this line to the entire plane can be considered solved. If not, then you will have to use the painting cord we mentioned;
We connect all the marks using this cord, achieving a perfectly straight line.

The final marking touch is to apply the so-called mesh, which will serve as a guide for the installation of prepared hangers. Observe the step between the lines, it is approximately equal to 50 cm.

This is what you should end up with.

If you see approximately the same thing on your ceiling, then congratulations: you have successfully completed the first stage of our step-by-step instructions.

Frame

If the markings are done correctly, then constructing the frame should not cause you any particular difficulties:

start from the perimeter, securing the prepared UD wall profile at a given step (up to 60 centimeters);
proceed to fixing the hangers - use dowels for this, and again the prepared hangers should be placed at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines marked on concrete base mesh ceiling (see previous paragraph);
prepare mortgages from bars for the chandelier, if one will be used indoors, and also run wires to the places where you plan to install spots and other types of lighting fixtures;
insert the longitudinal CD profile into the grooves of the wall one and secure it with self-tapping screws. You should have them on hand, right?

If you didn’t know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, but followed the suggested step-by-step instructions, then half the way has already been safely completed. The creation of the frame is crowned by the installation of what is called battens , on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Probably the most basic and uncomplicated step when installing drywall, which, however, will require help in the form of a couple of extra hands.

In order to speed up or even simplify finishing the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands, use the help of your friends to fix the sheets on the ceiling. The fact is that you are unlikely to be able to secure sheets of drywall with self-tapping screws alone.

start from one wall, systematically moving towards the opposite;
installation of the last fragment is carried out by cutting the sheet in accordance with your measurements;
lay the fragments in a joint, eliminating the appearance of any gaps or irregularities. If we are talking about the last sheet, then experienced experts still recommend leaving a small gap in this case.

Finishing

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands logically approached the post-processing of an already assembled surface. However, in terms of the number of micro-operations, this stage confidently pushes back all the previous ones:

puttying joints and gaps;
surface primer;
decorative finishing.

The choice of implementation of the latter is solely on your conscience. Usually, to give a plasterboard ceiling greater expressiveness, they use beautiful wallpaper, application decorative plaster, painting the ceiling base with water-based paint. When choosing this or that solution, make a discount on functional purpose premises.

It goes without saying that for the kitchen or bathroom, where high humidity and temperature changes are not uncommon, it is best to choose the most practical type of finishing over drywall - painting with a reliable water-based emulsion.

Conclusion

Multi-level and two-level plasterboard suspended ceilings are a favorite solution of designers. In addition to the variety of shapes and aesthetics two-level plasterboard ceilings They allow you to hide communications, use hidden ones, and improve the thermal insulation and acoustic properties of the room. And do two-level plasterboard ceiling not much more difficult than .

The only drawback of suspended ceilings, critical for standard Russian apartments, – reducing the height of the room. Minimum distance from the base ceiling to the bottom plane of the first (upper) step - 4 cm. If spotlights are assumed at the top - not less than the height of the rack + the thickness of the drywall. If the ceilings are flat, then in order to reduce the “eaten up” space, you can leave the base ceiling as the upper step.

Make a two-level plasterboard ceiling can be done in two ways: with fastening to the walls and ceiling or with fastening only to the ceiling (the so-called “floating” ceiling). At first glance, it may seem that the first option is more reliable. But in fact, a floating ceiling is preferable. Fastening to the walls ensures rigid fastening of the plasterboard structure. As a result, when the structure deforms (and this happens all the time), you are almost certainly guaranteed to have cracks at the joints of the drywall sheets. In the case of fastening only to the ceiling, regardless of deformations, longitudinal forces do not arise in the plasterboard. The ceiling seems to be swinging on a swing, lightly touching the walls. The only caveat is that it is necessary to decorate the junction of the ceiling and walls. It will cope with this task perfectly. It is the second option that we will consider. For a design made with fastening to walls, see the link.
Start off installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling follows from the frame of the lower step:

We make a schematic plan for the location of the ceiling profiles. A plan will help you avoid many mistakes. The plan should include: contours of steps, PP profiles 60*27. The position of the profiles is determined from following conditions: the width of the gypsum board sheet is 120 cm; there should be 3 longitudinal profiles across the entire width of the sheet. If the sheets have a factory chamfer, then it should be taken into account that the chamfer at the junction with the walls will need to be cut off, that is, the width of the sheet will be smaller. We install transverse profiles in increments of no more than 50 mm so that the joints of the gypsum plasterboard elements fall on the profiles. The seams of adjacent rows must be done staggered.
We mark the projections of the steps on the base ceiling and the height of the steps on the walls. We make the markings with a pencil.
Stepping back from the marking line on the ceiling by the thickness of the plasterboard, we attach the guide profile PN 27*28. If the marked line is curved, cut the guide profile (two adjacent walls) with a grinder or metal scissors. We bend the guide.
We mark and attach the suspensions to the ceiling. We install the hangers above the longitudinal profiles of PP 60*27 (see plan) near the intersections with the transverse profiles (but not above them). The step is about 60 cm. Most often, direct suspensions are used, but if the distance from the base to the new ceiling is large, then spring ones. We attach an anchor to the ceiling of the suspension - with a wedge or an anchor dowel. Under no circumstances should you dowel with nails. This is a requirement fire safety. In the event of a fire, even in the room above, the plastic dowels soften, the dowels are released and the entire structure falls down.
Direct hangers fixed to the ceiling
The frame of the step plane can be made on the floor. The profile for the corner of the step consists of two guides: one, whole, “looks” to the side, the second consists of profile fragments installed in the places where the vertical posts are attached and is fixed to the first with seeds. The ribs of the second guide are directed upward. If the structure is curved, the solid guide is curved. We also assemble the outer contour from guides.
Guide made of two PP profiles 30*27

Now we connect the outer and inner contours using those PP 60*27, which are indicated as longitudinal on the plan. Don’t forget to first put connectors on the profiles - crabs according to the number of intersections with the transverse profiles. We install transverse profiles into the “legs” of the crabs. We fasten it with metal screws.

Connecting profiles using a crab
We lift the resulting structure and fix it with hangers using seeds. We loosen the excess hangers and break them off. Although the frame made of profiles for gypsum fiber boards is not too heavy, this operation needs to be performed by two or three people, since when fastening it is necessary to control the horizontalness of the frame with a level. If everything is done correctly, the corner of the frame will be exactly under the guide on the ceiling.
All that remains is to install the PP 60*27 profiles between the ceiling and corner rails and the frame of the lower step is ready. For a rectilinear structure, we install profiles taking into account the joints of the gypsum boards in increments of no more than 60 cm. For curved ones, the increment can be reduced to 20–30 cm in order to fix the drywall more often in a curved position.
Fragment of the assembled frame. Connecting profiles with crabs and fastening on direct hangers
We perform the frame of the upper step (if the upper step is not the base ceiling) in the same way: we attach the hangers, assemble the flat frame on the floor, lift it, and fix it horizontally. The frame is finished!

We cover the frame with plasterboard. Before sewing, all communications must be completed. Do not forget that the wires in the structures are metal frame must be laid in special corrugated tubes. If you plan to hang lamps that are heavier than spotlights on a plasterboard suspended ceiling, then it is necessary to reinforce the structure in the places where they are installed.

For covering a plasterboard ceiling, it is better to use 9.5 mm thick plasterboard. Still, the lighter the ceiling, the better. according to the dimensions of the structure. For fastening to the frame we use black self-tapping screws 3.5 * 25 with a pitch of 15 cm. About 50 - 70 self-tapping screws are needed per sheet of plasterboard. To cover curved elements, we bend the plasterboard. Read more about this. After covering the structure. In the case of a floating ceiling, the joint between the walls and the ceiling structure and between the first and second steps can be left unsealed, or filled with sealant flush with the gypsum board. Then we execute finishing: coloring, or . An additional decoration for your new ceiling will be the correctly chosen one.

As you can see, make a two-level plasterboard ceiling doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling quite capable of two to three home craftsmen. Good luck to you in your endeavors and see you on the blog.

Installing a podium is a good technique for a room of any size and purpose. With its help, they hide a spacious place for storing things or sleeping, zone them, raise part of the room to another level, making a compositional accent.

Purpose of the podium

Recreation area

So that the elevation does not become a source of danger or an obstacle on the way around the house, thoughtful technical solutions are needed.

The podium will suit any style of room; two levels are appropriate in a modern design with an abundance of glass, plastic and chrome parts. or a living room designed in oriental style can generally get by with just a podium: no need for sofas, armchairs, stools.

The bed is a high mattress on a podium; the role of sofas is played by wide, long steps with pillows laid on them. Pillows will soften the harsh environment of a two-level structure.

In a large bathroom, the podium hides communications and delimits the toilet and bathroom areas.

In the studio apartment, a high podium with steps opens onto a separate plane with a study area and a computer desk. The same project can be implemented by separating the study space from the play space. In the depths of the podium, things are stored or a retractable place to sleep is waiting in the wings.

Accommodation options

If the appearance of the podium is dictated by technical necessity, it is placed in places where pipes, wires, and air ducts are located.

With the intention of decorating the room unusual design, when placing the elevation, they are guided by the following rules:

it will be inconvenient to walk around the podium rising in the center of the room or in passage areas;
the configuration of the room sometimes determines the position of the podium: the presence of columns, niches, alcoves, ;

It is better to divide a rectangular elongated room with a podium, making it visually wider, in square room a corner elevation of a rectangular, square or round shape will look good;
if on the podium or retractable from it there will be sleeping place, then they place it where a simple bed would look logical;

The easiest way to fit a podium into a studio apartment, where it will serve as a zoning function, and in a room with a complex configuration, where the location of the elevation will be suggested by the existing structural projections.

Materials for production

Requirements that should be met for the material for making the podium:

lightness is important to create a structure that does not overly load the floors;
reliability - to withstand the weight of furniture and moving people;
noiselessness - the material should not make creaks or knocks during loads.

You can sheathe the front part of the podium:

laminate using a special substrate;
solid wood;
ceramic tiles;
linoleum;
carpet

The choice of top depends on the design of the room and bearing capacity frame.

timber 30x40 mm;
timber 50x50 mm;
plywood 10 mm;
plywood 20 mm;
fasteners - self-tapping screws, anchors, dowel-nails, simple and reinforced mounting angles 50 mm.

Podium design for a children's room

The beams of the supporting walls are vertically attached to the walls of the room with anchors. The strength of the structure depends on the width of the step between the supports: the smaller it is, the greater the load the podium will withstand. A distance of 40 cm is considered optimal. By laying horizontal beams on the racks, the upper part of the frame is assembled. Using nails or self-tapping screws, the beams are connected to each other, maintaining a right angle. For additional strength, use a metal corner.