Having minimal experience in working with electrical equipment and knowledge in the field of repair and construction work, it is quite simple to install spotlights in ceiling and wall PVC panels.
Note. The luminaires are fastened using a special adapter - a protective thermal ring, which is attached to the main ceiling, and most often to plastic panels with glue.
When using plastic panels for finishing, you should think in advance about the location of the places where the lamps will be installed in the PVC panels. Because if you don’t take care of this issue in advance, you will have to remove some of the panels in order to make electrical wiring and make holes for lamps, or prepare holes on the fly, and run the wires through cable channels mounted on top of the panels.
Selection of lamps for PVC panels
When choosing lamps for PVC, it should be taken into account that plastic is exposed to high temperatures starts to melt. Therefore, before purchasing, you should consult a specialized store and select lamps with a maximum power not exceeding 40 W. Additionally, a thermal ring can save the panel from overheating. Best option– use low-voltage light diodes.
Note. The use of lighting devices with a housing protection level less than IP44 is not recommended. When choosing lamps and chandeliers for a room with a static level of humidity that does not exceed the norm, you can ignore the moisture resistance indicator. When choosing lamps for the bathroom, kitchen and toilet, the moisture resistance parameter should not be ignored.
Procedure for installing sockets
Installation of sockets on a PVC plate is as follows:
- On the wrong side of the panel, a place for insertion is marked. If the plastic boards are already fixed to the wall, you can cut holes in the panel already fixed to the wall using a construction knife;
- In place behind the socket, secure a square piece of plywood, equal in size to or slightly larger than the size of the socket;
- The socket box must be secured to a sheet of plywood using self-tapping screws.
If there is practically no space between the wall and the back of the panel, the socket is attached directly to the PVC plate, but with a little secret: in the place where the screws will be screwed in, it is necessary to place small plastic sheets through which the socket is secured on top of the plate. After the socket has been securely fastened, you can proceed to installing the plastic panel on the wall.
Rules for installing lamps
When installing spotlights in the bathroom, it is not recommended to place lighting fixtures above the shower stall. The same rule applies to installing lamps above the sink and bidet. Considering that in most cases the bathroom in houses does not exceed 6-8 m2, it is enough to install several lamps in the ceiling slab with a rotating mechanism.
Preparing panels
What is a plastic panel? The market is full of models that can look like long boards of plastic or rectangular or square sheets various shapes. The main thing is that installation pvc panels installation on the ceiling is carried out according to the principle of snapping locks: regardless of the model, each PVC plate is equipped with grooves for assembly.
Note. Don't forget to label the panels as well. This is necessary so that during the process you do not forget which part goes into which place. This is especially indispensable when arranging lamps in a checkerboard pattern.
In order to drill a hole in panels made of plastic or plasterboard, special crowns are used. As an alternative, you can use wood crowns. The remaining burrs can be removed using a file or sandpaper (it is acceptable to use sandpaper with gentle pressure).
The installation of lighting devices can only be started after all stages of attaching PVC plates have been completed. Likewise installation work When installing lamps in plasterboard sheets, the installation process on plastic sheets looks identical.
Life— hack for marking and making holes for installing spotlights without using a drill:
- the location of the proposed hole for the equipment is marked using a compass;
- Next, you need to use a stationery or construction knife, with which you make a hole along the contour of the marked line for cable routing;
- Now it’s the turn of the electric jigsaw, with the help of which the hole is given its final shape.
Thus, if you don’t have a drill at hand, or you simply don’t want to go to the store for expensive cutters, an ordinary compass will come to the rescue, stationery knife and a jigsaw powered by electricity. The method is really good, it allows you to significantly save the financial component of the project. But there is also a minus: the time that needs to be spent working with a jigsaw exceeds the time that would be spent drilling with a drill.
Note. As a rule, plastic products sensitive to mechanical stress. Therefore, when cutting out parts you need to be as careful as possible. Otherwise, the board may crack or sag, which automatically sends it to scrap.
Installation of spotlights in PVC panels
You can install the overhead light according to the following scheme:
- disconnect the top of the lamp from the base;
- turn off the electricity using the terminals;
- connect the lamp;
- check the functionality of the connected lamp;
- using special clamps, install the lamp in place;
- secure the decorative trim;
- attach the thermal insulating ring to the bottom of the lamp.
Finally, all that remains is to attach the plastic plate back.
The sequence of work to install a spotlight:
- On the body of the lamp there is a pair of clamping “ears” that need to be bent;
- A hole is prepared in the slab according to the size of the lamp;
- The light device is inserted into the made and processed hole. If you don't get rid of the hangnails after making a hole, the overall job will look sloppy. In addition, there is a high chance of damage from untreated edges when installing a lighting device;
- Strip the wire on the device if the manufacturer has not taken care of this in advance;
- Strip the wire on the ceiling. It is necessary to remove the insulating layer no more than 10-12 mm;
- Connect the wire on the ceiling to the wire of the lamp using a screw clamp.
Distance between light sources
It is necessary to take into account the minimum voltage and small lighting angle. As a rule, lighting begins to dissipate at an angle exceeding 30 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to think over the location of the lamps so that the light fluxes intersect with each other, which automatically allows you to fill the ceiling space as much as possible and disperse the light evenly over the ceiling surface.
Example. Standard ceiling height in residential buildings varies between 2.4-2.5 meters. Therefore, the maximum distance between light sources should not exceed more than 1 meter, and it is necessary to retreat from the walls by at least half a meter.
For clarity, you can make a preliminary marking of the location of light sources on the ceiling. This can be done using insulating tape:
- cut off equal strips of 2 pieces from the electrical tape;
- stick on top of each other in the form of a cross.
Thus, you can mark the future location of the lamps and think about what shape to place them on the ceiling surface.
Video
This kind repair work how installing electrical sockets and switches often causes difficulties for a person who has never dealt with them. However, such a need, although not often, still arises. Electrical sockets and switches are installed in a new room, or if it is necessary to replace old and worn ones with new ones.
The electrical outlet is designed to safely connect electrical appliances to the power supply.
There are overhead or external sockets and internal ones. Recently, internal sockets have become more popular, as they have a more aesthetic and modern look.
The switch is designed to interrupt and connect electrical circuit, to turn various devices on and off. Switches are mainly used to control electric lighting indoors. Switches are often used to control other household appliances such as a water heating boiler, heating system circulation pump, kitchen hoods, etc.
The specifics of installing sockets and switches largely depend on the material from which the walls in the room are built or lined.
The most common wall materials are concrete, brick and facing material in the form of plastic panels and plasterboard.
Installation of sockets and switches in a brick wall.
To install sockets and switches in a brick or concrete wall, you will need an impact drill with a special attachment for drilling large-diameter holes, a screwdriver and pliers.
By using impact drill a socket is prepared for a socket of the appropriate size. The socket can be disassembled using a screwdriver. The removed cable is connected to a socket or switch according to the instructions for it. Then the socket is seated in its place and secured using specially provided clamps.
After this, the socket is put back together.
Installation of sockets and switches in a plastic wall.
Installing sockets in tiled walls is a little simpler than the previous one, but also requires a little effort and caution. You can use a utility knife or an electric jigsaw to make holes in plastic panels and drywall. For plastic or drywall, special attachments are available for sawing large diameter holes in it. You also need to buy a special installation box.
When choosing a location for sockets, you should consider what facing material located metal profile, which may interfere with installation. To determine the location of the profile, you can press down the wall with your hand in several places. By how the wall springs, you can determine the approximate location of the profile.
Just as in the case with brick wall, the socket is disassembled, connected to the output cable and mounted in its seat. After that she gets ready.
When making renovations indoors, we are almost always faced with the need to make a number of manipulations with sockets and switches - update old mechanisms, or move them to another location, add several new points, or completely change all the wiring along with electrical products.
In fact, installing sockets is not such a difficult matter that it is necessary to invite professionals. There is no need for special labor costs or the use of expensive special tools; simple home handyman I am quite capable of handling the task on my own. We only need to seriously delve into a number of highlights and nuances on which the success of the enterprise greatly depends - this is what we will do today.
Preparatory work
Determining terminal points, laying wires
Installation of sockets begins with laying the wires. Without going into calculation details, we note that the sockets should be wired with a three-wire copper wire with a cross-section of each conductor of 2.5 mm 2, the VVGng brand has proven itself well. Note that in rare cases, when you need to power some powerful consumer (jacuzzi, electric stove, oven...), 4-mm conductors also lead to it, but they often use direct connection to terminals rather than sockets. Wiring in residential premises is done hidden - in grooves; the conductor, even if double insulated, must be enclosed in a protective self-extinguishing plastic corrugation (its diameter is 16 or 20 mm).
The location of the sockets, and therefore the wire terminals, must be carefully thought out so that it is convenient to use electrical appliances and there are no problems with installation. Everything is important here - from the height above the floor (the currently generally accepted standard is 300 mm) to the position of the subsystem profiles (frames) and the number of sockets, types of electrical installation products in one frame. The most logical thing would be to draw up on paper a working plan for the location of sockets and terminals with geometric reference to the walls and furniture, and also indicate the composition of multi-post blocks.
Almost all manufacturers offer horizontal frames in which a maximum of 5 or 6 mechanisms can be placed, and vertical frames are available in two- or three-post versions. Please note that under one facade you can fit not only power sockets, but also switches, as well as all kinds of low-current sockets (telephone, Internet, acoustics, intra-house communications, TV...).
For one block of sockets, preferably to the outermost mechanism, we supply one power supply wire (if its cross-section is at least 2.5 square), the rest are powered from it by a cable, this is allowed by the PUE standards. From a reliability point of view, the ideal option is when there is a separate wire for each socket from the distribution box or even from the switchboard, but then the costs for conductors and labor costs increase significantly.
Very important point- leave the wire with a reserve; a “tail” of at least 150-200 mm should come out of the wall. Short leads greatly complicate installation.
Attention! Do not lead the wire out of the wall at the center of the socket, as this is where the stabilizing drill bit of the core bit is placed. It is better to extend the conductor a few centimeters to the side (on solid mineral bases), or leave it behind the cladding before installing the installation boxes (for frame options).
Tools and consumables
As we have already said, there are no special problems with the tool for installing sockets, it is inexpensive and almost a complete set of it is available in the arsenal of most more or less trained home craftsmen.
So, we need:
- bubble rack level, length from 200-500 mm (larger ones are not very convenient to work with);
- roulette;
- thin screwdriver;
- assembly knife with retractable blade;
- side cutters or pliers;
- wire stripping pliers (preferred);
- a crown from a wood kit with a diameter of 68 mm (attention, not every kit has this size of equipment);
- screwdriver or drill;
- installation boxes;
- Wago clamps or similar.
Installation of sockets. First stage
Marking and cutting holes for boxes
On the wall, along the direction of the frame, along its axis (we will further talk about the socket block as more complex version installation) draw a vertical or horizontal line. To do this, be sure to use a level. Now, according to our plan, we find the edge of the block and its center, mark these points on the resulting line. The future block of sockets is best perceived in space if you put together several necessary installation boxes and attach them to the wall in the installation area.
Most importantly, on the center line we mark the centers of each individual socket in the block. The approximate distance between them will be 68 mm.
We assemble the crown from the saw set and perform the cutting at medium speed. Here it is very important not to apply excessive force to the tool so that the equipment does not tear the material at the exit, since it will not be possible to reliably attach the socket box to drywall with broken edges of the installation hole. The situation is a little simpler if the installation is carried out on wood, MDF or other hard cladding, but you need to work with plastic panels no less carefully, due to their susceptibility to cracking.
At this stage, beginners make many mistakes that are very difficult to correct later. The most common are non-compliance with the level, breaking of edges, incorrect relative position adjacent mounting holes. The first two reasons for marriage can be treated by systematically increasing accuracy, but to solve the latter you need to gain experience. To do this, we recommend practicing marking and cutting on an unnecessary piece of drywall.
Correctly drilled holes should not overlap each other, but there should be no gap between them, only the edges of the circles touch. Only then will we trim the millimeter partition a little with a knife, if the configuration of the socket boxes requires it. Installation boxes fit into well-made holes easily and without distortion, otherwise the problem will result in bending of the socket boxes, difficulty or complete impossibility of securing electrical installation mechanisms, problems with installing the front panel and top cover (the facade does not press against the wall, the plug comes into contact with difficulty).
Selection and installation of socket boxes
When installing electrical points, a lot depends on the quality and type of installation boxes. You shouldn’t skimp on these elements, especially since they are relatively inexpensive. A good socket box has dense casing walls with complete absence gating marks and beads. It has a clearly defined rigid front side, which prevents it from falling inside the cladding. Such boxes have large mounting tabs (not necessarily metal, polymer materials also work well), which securely cling to the cladding sheet from behind. An undoubted advantage will be the functional perforation, which allows you to make holes for cable entry and cable routing between sockets without extra effort.
It should be noted that installation boxes from different manufacturers, as well as their sockets, are slightly different in shape, and this can sometimes cause serious difficulties in installation, although universal mutual unification is in fashion now. Therefore, it is best to purchase socket boxes from the company whose products you have chosen as the main electrical installation products; at least, we recommend checking the compatibility of these elements if they are not from the same manufacturer.
In the installation boxes, using a knife, we remove the partitions that are formed when they are connected, as well as one (or several, if there are many conductors) plug for introducing the cable into the mounting cavity.
We assemble the socket boxes into one block, sometimes special connecting elements are used for this.
We carefully insert a group of socket boxes, there can be up to six of them, into the already drilled holes, having first threaded the power wire into the outer box. Before performing this operation, we recommend using the screws to slightly move the mounting tabs from their extreme position so that they do not become skewed and do not stall, but are guaranteed to go along their grooves. This is especially true if the clamps are rotary. Then the legs begin to protrude beyond the circumference of the box, but in order not to damage the installation opening, the box should be slightly squeezed in these places during installation.
We check the socket boxes installed in the holes horizontally and vertically, placing a level at the bottom or top of the front sides, since due to some lameness here you can also get a misalignment. Usually the sides in these places are cut and lined up; you can also check the alignment of the mounting screws with a level.
Using a thin Phillips or small flat-head screwdriver, tighten the screws that drive the mounting tabs until the latter rest against the cladding. You cannot overdo it here, so as not to squeeze the socket inward and damage the contours of the hole.
At this point, the first stage of installing the sockets is completed; all that remains is to check the functionality of the wiring and begin painting work. Connection of electrical installation products and installation of facades is carried out after completion of all finishing operations.
Installation of sockets. Second stage
Stripping and routing conductors inside the block
The first step is to strip the ends of the power wire. First you need to remove the top protective sheath from the cable. We take a knife and draw the tip of its blade along the shell, without cutting through it (so as not to damage the insulation of individual conductors), but only making a “notch”. We are moving in the “outside the box” direction. Along the line of this notch, the shell can be torn by pulling the conductors. Many electricians remove the conductors from the outer sheath before installing the boxes - this is very convenient. You can disassemble the wire all the way to the base of the box, but without going beyond it towards the interior of the wall.
Now you need to clean the edges of the conductors (they are usually marked with colors: brown, blue, yellow). The ideal tool for this is special stripping pliers, which can be used quickly, efficiently and safely. As a last resort, you can use a knife. To do this, at a distance of 7-10 mm from the edge of the core, an incision is made in a circle and the insulation is pulled off with pliers or a pressed knife blade. Here you cannot use planing movements and you cannot cut through the insulation deeply, since this will damage the thin copper wires of the conductor and guarantee that its nominal cross-section will be underestimated.
The cable wires are prepared in a similar way, with which we sequentially connect the mechanisms of the sockets located in one block. These are sections of wires with a length of at least 200 mm and a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2; they are completely freed from the sheath and stripped of insulation at both ends.
The loop elements with three conductors (line/phase, zero/neutral, ground) are laid through the bulkheads. All their ends should come out in adjacent socket boxes and be connected to the terminals of adjacent sockets - this is a reliable, long-tested option known to many installers. But the rules for electrical installations (PUE) require that the protective grounding conductor come to the socket mechanism in parallel, as a separate branch. Therefore, as an option, such a branch is made in the socket box, where the power for the entire unit comes. A “Wago” type clamp can be used as a connecting element here. If so terminal block takes up too much space (for example, many posts in the block) and does not allow installing an outlet, then it is worth considering the use of a deep socket box in this place.
Connecting and fixing the mechanism
First, you need to disassemble the socket - unscrew and remove the front cover, remove the entire front panel. If the socket is arranged screw clamp, then this screw should usually be unscrewed to free the terminal block hole. Starting from the edge of the block, we insert conductors into each socket and tighten the screws as tightly as possible (some manufacturers use “quick” spring-loaded clamps here). When performing this operation, it is very important to observe the conditional polarity of the connection - take it as a rule: the grounding yellow conductor is clamped in the middle, the phase (brown) is mounted on the left, the zero (blue) will be on the right.
The loop conductors are connected through paired clamps (on many sockets there are 6 of them - two for each conductor). If the terminal block is single, with one hole, then you will have to twist the wires in pairs. Do this as tightly and carefully as possible, use pliers.
Be sure to check that the conductors are securely seated - you just need to tug them slightly. Poor contact under heavy loads can cause wires to heat up, conductive parts to burn, and even materials to melt.
As it is connected, each mechanism is inserted into the installation box and temporarily fixed with mounting screws. Here you need to pay attention to ensure that the wires are positioned correctly at the bottom of the socket box, since sometimes they are clamped by the mechanism, fall under the mounting tab and become deformed. Wires with rigid solid cores must first be folded into a “snake” so that they do not bend at an extreme angle during installation.
When all the electrical installation parts of the unit are in place, you need to start aligning them along the line. The third time we must use the level, now we apply its body to the edges of the mechanism support. Each socket has an elongated recess for screws, so it can rotate around its axis within a certain range. Our task is to arrange the products in one line and make sure that it is strictly horizontal or vertical. To facilitate the placement of multi-position combinations, the calipers have recesses that correspond to each other.
Once you have figured out the positioning of the mechanisms, you can tighten the mounting screws. After that, using other screws, we spread the mounting tabs until they rest against the walls of the boxes. Few people now use this fastening element, but sometimes with their help you can slightly correct mistakes made at the stage of marking and installing socket boxes. Some electricians simply remove these tabs, since often they, even in an undone state, do not allow the socket to be installed in place and its plastic part to be assembled.
The final touch is the installation of the facade. First, a frame is applied to the sockets, then the front panels are inserted into place through it and secured with screws. Only when all the covers are properly seated in the desired position and the screws engage the threads can they be tightened one by one. If the multi-post frame does not press properly against the wall, do not try to solve the problem by over-tightening (as you can break it), but check the correct alignment of the mechanisms or the quality of the wall finish near the outlet block.
Upon completion of work, check the functionality of each socket. Power the circuit and plug in any electrical appliance. The plug should move in and out of the contacts freely.
Instead of an epilogue
Sockets are not always installed on hollow walls. For their installation on plastered walls, special “concrete” socket boxes are used. Then in the array it is necessary to first knock out holes with a diameter of less than 70 mm; for large volumes of work, a hammer drill and a special crown with carbide teeth come to the rescue. To install long blocks (4-6 devices), it makes sense to use a grinder with a diamond blade and cut a rectangular opening. To install boxes on concrete, gypsum mortar is applied to a drilled niche (advanced electricians either mix alabaster with putty, or use Perlfix-type glue), and then socket boxes are inserted, positioned relative to the front plane and fixed with wedges or front overlays. Then the technology is no different.
Switches and other electrical installation products are installed using the same principle as sockets (from a mechanical point of view). The differences there are only in the electrical part - the order and options for connecting conductors, methods of fastening facades.
Separately, it is worth mentioning such work as “moving the socket.” Such operations are very undesirable, since they are associated with an atypical geometry for laying the additional cable, and also due to the fact that it needs to be “built up”. But if you stretch a new wire from distribution box If it is not possible, then you need to make a branch inside the socket of the existing outlet. The connection of wires must be done as in a distribution box - either by twisting together with welding/soldering, or through a high-quality quick-release terminal block. One way or another, the donor socket cannot be completely removed and bricked up, even if it is not needed, so that there is free access to the connection point through the removable facade.
As you can see, there is nothing supernatural in this work. Don’t be alarmed, well, one master can’t have so many problems, we just tried to touch on all the pitfalls that you can encounter with a lack of experience. However, do not forget that there are no trifles in electrical installation; extreme concentration and accuracy are needed here.
Turishchev Anton, rmnt.ru
Installation of electrical points (sockets and switches) in plastic slopes is a safe and useful solution, of course, if all stages of installation are followed, reports the OKNA MEDIA portal.
Modern window sills are much wider than their predecessors and therefore many use them to install electrical appliances: kettles, microwave ovens, humidifiers and others. It is also convenient to place on the windowsill mobile phone during charging so that it is at hand. In such a situation, a problem arises with the power source, especially if there are several electrical appliances. Installing sockets in slopes is great solution in this situation. For convenience, experts recommend integrating not only sockets, but also switches into window slopes.
A logical question that many will ask themselves is how safe it is, whether it will short-circuit, because condensation can collect under the slope, and so on.
According to experts, water does not conduct electric current, it is carried out by salt, which is dissolved in water. Condensation that may form on the contacts does not conduct electricity because it is actually distilled water. In addition, condensation is formed under the influence of temperature differences, and inside under the slope the temperature is exactly the same as in the room. Therefore, the probability of condensation on metal contacts is negligible. 
The rain won't flood them either. Because if rain gets into the apartment, it means that the sash is open, but it opens towards the slope, that is, it completely protects the outlet. And rain is also distilled water, therefore, according to professional builder Alexey Zemskov, even if rain floods the apartment to the ceiling, there will be no short circuit.
Likewise, there is no need to be afraid that the sockets will heat up and the slope will catch fire. Any modern electrics are made in such a way that the machine will turn off much earlier than the cable and contacts from this outlet heat up. If the entire apartment has old wiring and two automatic machines, then for general safety it must be either repaired or replaced. 
Installing electrical wiring in slopes is surprisingly simple, logical and quick. First of all, a power cable is laid behind the false wall in advance, even at the stage of its assembly, which simply hangs from the old slope. Next, plasterboard is installed on this frame, puttied, covered with wallpaper for painting and painted. 
Window slopes are installed at the very end. To begin with, the plastic slope should be cut out and tried on, and then removed and foam applied to its back. When the mounting foam hardens slightly, the slope must be tried on again. If the foam prevents you from pressing it tightly, then it is crushed or trimmed. 
After this, you need to cut holes in the slope panel for future electrical points (sockets and switches), and pull the cable through them. Then you should apply a little fresh foam to the already dried foam. polyurethane foam so that the slope is securely glued to the window opening. And only after this the panel is secured.
This is a very important stage that cannot be ignored under any circumstances. The panel must be glued to the slope so that when you pull out the plug from the socket, the slope does not bend, deform the foam seam, or tear off the sealant located along the window sill. 
The most important thing: to secure the socket box, you do not need any foam or alabaster; you need a special socket box for hypocardboard. It differs from the usual ones by the presence of special claws that clamp the panel very well. The main task of the master is to install the slope correctly and correctly, as well as securely fasten the panel. The socket boxes will stay in place automatically. WINDOWS MEDIA recommends watching, as always, a dynamic and interesting video about installing electric points in plastic slopes with the participation of the inimitable Alexey Zemskov.
Sockets are usually installed on walls. Although there are cases of installing socket groups in the floor (when design solution the TV is located in the middle of the room or room) and on the ceiling (if you need to connect a projector or TV hanging from the ceiling on a vertical bracket).
In such cases, the sockets are fixed according to the same principle, only you need to take into account the cable routing to the socket. The socket itself is attached to a special box, or an external socket is installed.
The installation of electrical outlet boxes in the apartment is carried out during the installation of electrical wiring. When all the wires in the apartment have already been routed and the walls have been plastered, all that remains is to install the sockets.
To do this, you need to secure all socket boxes. The openings for them should already be ready. The openings are drilled with a special metal, round nozzle with Pobedit tips. Then the remaining concrete is removed with a hammer drill with a spatula attachment.
The boxes can be secured with dowels, or you can mix alabaster and lubricate the openings with it. Before installing the boxes, the wires must be brought inside.
After completing these steps, all that remains is to connect the sockets. To do this, we strip the wires and insert them into the terminals of the sockets. Modern wiring mainly has three wires (phase, neutral, ground). We connect the phase and neutral to the terminal blocks and clamp them, and the ground to the bus.
We install the socket into the socket of the box and, using a screwdriver, unclench them. When the base of the socket is in place, all that remains is to screw on the covers.
The plasterboard wall is modern and lightweight material for installation of partition walls in an apartment or house. Accordingly, there are technologies for pulling wires in these walls and installing electrical outlets.
The fastening of boxes for sockets for drywall is specific. It doesn't look like boxes designed for concrete walls. The fastener consists of two screw-shaped rods, at the end of which there are small plates.
The principle of operation of the fastener involves fixing the box as a result of the upward movement of the plate along the rod. The movement of the plate is activated by turning the rods using a screwdriver.
Before installing the box on plasterboard wall, wires are inserted into it. When the box is securely clamped in the partition, a socket or socket group consisting of several sockets is installed.
The phase and neutral wires are clamped into the terminals, and the ground wire is attached to the busbar inside the socket. The ground wire is usually yellow or yellow-green in color.
The base of the socket is clamped into the box using spacers with a screwdriver. Then it remains to install the cover on the socket, holding the screw in the center of the socket.
Plastic panels are used as interior finishing material. They are used for installation on walls in kitchens, bathrooms, and corridors. Plastic panels can be of various colors and sizes.
To install a socket on plastic panels you must:
- - the installation location of the socket on the plastic panel must be outlined with a marker, measuring its exact location using a tape measure;
- - then you need to de-energize the room where the panels with the socket are installed;
- - install the box under the outlet. Don't forget to put the wires inside the box. We fix the box itself in the wall so that it is level with the panels;
- - for installing a socket on plastic panel It is necessary to cut out the marked area with a sharp knife or hacksaw. If the house has a round crown for plastic, you can use it;
- - the plastic panel must be installed on the frame;
- - after installing the plastic panel, install the socket;
- - remove the top cover from the socket by unscrewing the fastening screw;
- - we insert wires into the lower base of the socket, install them into the terminal blocks and clamp them;
- - install the socket in the box, releasing the release fasteners;
- - it remains to secure the upper part of the socket for installation.