In addition to processing solid pieces of wood, it is often necessary to join wooden parts into units and structures. Element connections wooden structures called landings. Joints in the structures of wooden parts are determined by five types of fits: tense, tight, sliding, loose and very loose fit.
Nodes - these are parts of structures at the junction of parts. Wooden structure connections are divided into types: end, side, corner T-shaped, cross-shaped, corner L-shaped and box corner connections.
Joinery joints have more than 200 options. Here we consider only the connections that joiners and carpenters use in practice.
End connection (extension) - connection of parts along the length, when one element is a continuation of the other. Such connections are smooth, jagged with spikes. Additionally, they are secured with glue, screws, and overlays. Horizontal end connections withstand compressive, tensile and bending loads (Fig. 1 - 5). Lumber is increased in length, forming vertical and horizontal toothed joints (wedge lock) at the ends (Fig. 6). Such joints do not need to be under pressure during the entire gluing process, as there are significant frictional forces at work. Toothed connections of lumber made by milling meet the first class of accuracy.
Connections of wooden structures must be made carefully, in accordance with three accuracy classes. The first class is for measuring instruments high quality, the second class is for furniture products, and the third is for construction parts, agricultural implements and containers. The lateral connection by the edge of several boards or slats is called joining (Fig. 7). Such connections are used in the construction of floors, gates, carpentry doors, etc. Plank and slatted panels are additionally reinforced with crossbars and tips. When covering ceilings and walls, the upper boards overlap the lower ones by 1/5 - 1/4 of the width. The outer walls are sheathed with horizontally laid overlapping boards (Fig. 7, g). The upper board overlaps the lower one by 1/5 - 1/4 of the width, which ensures the removal of precipitation. Connecting the end of a part to the middle part of another forms a T-shaped connection of parts. Such connections have a large number of options, two of which are shown in Fig. 8. These connections (ties) are used when connecting joists of floors and partitions with the piping of a house. Connecting parts at right or oblique angles is called a cross connection. This connection has one or two grooves (Fig. 3.9). Cross joints are used in roof and truss structures.
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| Rice. 1. End connections of beams that resist compression: a - with a direct half-wood overlay; b - with an oblique overlay (on the “mustache”); c - with a straight half-wood overlay with a joint at an obtuse angle; g - with an oblique overlay with a tenon joint. |
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| Rice. 2. End connections of beams (extension) that resist tension: a - in a straight overhead lock; b - c oblique patch lock; c - with a straight half-wood overlay with a joint in an oblique tenon (dovetail). |
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| Rice. 3. End connections of beams that resist bending: a - with a straight half-timber overlay with an oblique joint; b - with a straight half-timber overlay with a stepped joint; c - in an oblique overhead lock with wedges and a tenon joint. |
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| Rice. 4. Joining by cutting with reinforcement with wedges and bolts. |
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| Rice. 5. End connections of beams working in compression: a - end-to-end with a secret hollowed-out tenon; b - end-to-end with a hidden insert tenon; c - with a direct half-wood overlay (the connection can be strengthened with bolts); Mr. direct half-wood overlay secured with wire; d - with a direct half-wood overlay secured with metal clips (clamps); e - with an oblique overlay (on a “mustache”) secured with metal clips; g - with an oblique overlay and fastening with bolts; h - marking of the oblique overlay; and - end-to-end with a hidden tetrahedral tenon. |
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| Rice. 6. End extensions of the milling scheme during end gluing of workpieces: a - vertical (along the width of the part), toothed (wedge-shaped) connection; b - horizontal (according to the thickness of the part), toothed (wedge-shaped) connection; c - milling of a gear connection; d - sawing out a gear connection; d - milling of a gear connection; e - end connection and gluing. |
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| Rice. 7. Joining the boards: a - on a smooth reveal; b - on the insert rail; c - a quarter; g, e, f - in groove and tongue (with different shapes of groove and tongue); g - overlap; h - with a tip in a groove; and - with a quarter tip; k - with overlap. |
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| Rice. 8. T-shaped connections of bars: a - with a hidden oblique tenon (in the paw or in the dovetail); b - with a straight stepped overlay. |
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| Rice. 9. Cross connections of bars: a - with a direct half-wood overlay; b - with direct overlay of incomplete overlap; in - with fit in one nest |
Connections of two parts with ends at right angles are called corner connections. They have through and non-through tenons, open and in the dark, half-dark on the overlay, half-tree, etc. (Fig. 10). Corner joints (ties) are used in window blocks, in joints of greenhouse frames, etc. A tenon joint in the dark has a tenon length of at least half the width of the part being connected, and the depth of the groove is 2 - 3 mm greater than the length of the tenon. This is necessary so that the parts to be joined can easily mate with each other, and there is room in the tenon socket after gluing for excess glue. For door frames, corner angles are used. finger joint in the dark, and to increase the size of the surface to be connected - semi-dark. Double or triple tenons increase the strength of the corner joint. However, the strength of the connection is determined by the quality of its execution. IN furniture production A variety of corner box connections are widely used (Fig. 11). Of these, the simplest is an open end-to-end tenon connection. Before making such a connection, tenons are marked at one end of the board with an awl according to the drawing. By marking the side parts of the tenon, a cut is made with a fine-toothed file. Every second cut of the tenon is hollowed out with a chisel. To make the connection precise, first saw and hollow out the tenon sockets in one part. It is placed on the end of another part and crushed. Then they saw through, hollow out and connect the parts, cleaning the joint with a plane, as shown in Fig. 11.
When connecting parts “mustache” (at an angle of 45°), the corner binding is secured with steel inserts, as shown in Fig. 12. At the same time, make sure that one half of the insert or fastener fits into one part, and the other half into another. A wedge-shaped steel plate or ring is placed in the milled grooves of the parts to be connected.
The corners of the frames and drawers are connected with a straight open through tenon joint (Fig. 3.13, a, b, c). With increased quality requirements (the tenons are not visible from the outside), corner knitting is performed using an oblique connection in the dark, groove and tongue, or an oblique connection to the rail, as shown in Fig. 13, d, e, f, g and in Fig. 14.
A box-shaped structure with horizontal or vertical transverse elements (shelves, partitions) is connected using corner T-shaped joints shown in Fig. 15.
Corner notches are used to connect the elements of the upper chord of wooden trusses with the lower one. When connecting truss elements at an angle of 45° or less, one notch is made in the lower element (tightening) (Fig. 16,a), at an angle of more than 45° - two notches (Fig. 16,6). In both cases, the end cut (cut) is perpendicular to the direction of the acting forces.
Additionally, the units are secured with a bolt with a washer and a nut, or less often with staples. The log walls of a house (log house) made of horizontally laid logs in the corners are connected by a “claw” notch. It can be simple or with an additional spike (paw with a pit). The cutting is marked as follows: the end of the log is hewn into a square, to the length of the side of the square (along the log), so that after processing it turns out to be a cube. The sides of the cube are divided into 8 equal parts. Then 4/8 of the part is removed from one side from the bottom and top, and the remaining sides are done as shown in Fig. 17. To speed up the marking and accuracy of making cuts, templates are used.
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| Rice. 10. Corner end connections of workpieces at right angles: a - with a single opening through tenon; b - with a single through hidden tenon (in the dark); c-with a single blind (not through) spike in the dark; g - with a single through semi-secret tenon (semi-dark); d - with a single blind spike in semi-darkness; e - with a triple open through tenon; g - in a straight half-tree overlay; h - through dovetail; and - into the eyes with trimming. |
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| Rice. 11. Box corner joints with straight through tenons: a - cutting out tenon grooves; b - marking the spikes with an awl; c - connection of a tenon with a groove; d - processing the corner joint with a planer. |
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| Rice. 12. Corner end connections at right angles, reinforced with metal inserts - buttons: a - 8-shaped insert; b- wedge-shaped plate; c- rings. |
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| Rice. 13. Box corner joints at right angles: a - straight open through tenons; b - oblique open through spikes; c - open through spikes in a dovetail; g - groove on the insert rail butt; d - in groove and tongue; e - on plug-in spikes; g - on dovetail spikes in semi-darkness. |
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| Rice. 14. Oblique (mustache) box joints at right angles: a - with oblique tenons in the dark; b - oblique connection to the plug-in rail; c - oblique connection to tenons in the dark; d - an oblique connection, reinforced with a triangular strip on glue. |
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| Rice. 15. Direct and oblique connections of workpieces: a - to double connection in oblique groove and ridge; b - on a straight groove and ridge; c - on a triangular groove and ridge; g - on a straight groove and a ridge in the dark; d - for straight through tenons; e - on round insert tenons in the dark; g - on a dovetail spike; h - on the groove and ridge, reinforced with nails. |
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| Rice. 16. Nodes in truss elements. |
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| Rice. 17. Interfacing the logs of the log house walls: a - a simple paw; b - paw with a wind spike; c - marking of the paw; 1 - wind spike (pit) |
They say about the coolest joiners and carpenters that they are able to build a house without a single nail. Japanese artisans, even amateurs, are one of those.
Several years ago, a young automotive industry worker, passionate about woodworking, came across a book describing traditional Japanese woodworking techniques. He was very fascinated by the descriptions of connecting parts without using nails, screws or glue. He wanted to learn how to do the same. But there were no diagrams for making fasteners in the book. Then the guy decided to draw them himself.
He used the free Fusion-360 service to model and animate parts. The Japanese translated the resulting result into gifs and posted it on a Twitter account called The Joinery. In almost a year, the young carpenter visualized 85 in various ways detachable connections.
The variety of mounts is truly amazing. With their help, you can make basically anything - a stool, a sofa, a table, and so on. The main thing is to have straight hands and a good, preferably electric, tool.
But even if manual labor doesn't excite you at all, you'll probably enjoy watching GIFs. The grace with which the details fit together is mesmerizing.
Making tight joints from wood
Professional marking with precision tools
Tight joints of wood products start with neat and precise markings. This is especially important if you are making joints by hand and the marking lines serve as tool guides. Precision machining depends on careful adjustment of stops, stops, reach and tilt saw blades and cutters. Here are the steps to help you achieve great results. This does not require unique equipment, but you should choose tools that ensure accuracy and efficiency. Also, develop the habit of following following rules when measuring and marking.
- Use precision instruments. For example, if possible, try to use a precision steel ruler instead of a flexible tape measure in most cases. Good tools cost more, but they will last you a lifetime.
- Consistency is the key to success. Use the same measuring tools throughout your project to avoid small inaccuracies affecting the quality of your connections. For example, the 300mm marks on two rulers may not match.
- The main thing is the result, not the measurements. In most cases, measurements should be avoided when a finished part with connection elements can be used to mark an adjacent part. For example, having made tenons on the front wall of the box, use them to mark “dovetails” on the side wall blanks.
- Use the right marking techniques and the right tools. With good marking and measuring tools, it is easier to achieve the required accuracy.
It is not always possible to accurately align the end of the ruler with the end of the workpiece, so in such a situation it is better, as they say, to sacrifice zero. Align the next serial division with the end and mark the size according to it. |
To draw a thin line parallel to the edge of the workpiece, use a thicknesser. Shows the outline of the socket on the post after determining the position of the end of the crossbar |
A sharp knife leaves the finest line, ensuring high marking accuracy. In some cases, the recessed line also becomes the starting position for the chisel
When you need to measure the thickness of the workpiece and groove disk or the width of the groove, an electronic caliper will eliminate errors by showing the exact size |
You can make sure that the machine stops are set exactly at an angle of 90° using a steel square |
Fine-tuning of machines for precise machining of parts
Machines and power tools will only provide excellent results if they are properly set up and adjusted. This page shows the main features of setting up three machines that are the main ones for most workshops: saw and planer machines, as well as milling table. As you prepare them for work, remember the following rules.
- First of all, make the pieces of the same thickness. Start any project by cutting all pieces to the same thickness. Any differences in thickness make it difficult to obtain neat joints and require additional adjustment by sanding and scraping.
- A smart approach. Long boards are inconvenient to process, so it is better to immediately cut them into blanks with a small allowance, which are easier to handle, achieving the required accuracy.
- Double check the dimensions. The actual thickness of the slabs and sheet materials, as a rule, differs from the nominal value, so a caliper should be used to measure them. Only after this cut out the grooves, tongues and folds of the appropriate width.
Before sawing anything, check that the blade is parallel to the grooves in the table, set the crosscut (miter) fence to a 90° angle, and then set the rip fence parallel to the blade. At longitudinal sawing Use a clamping comb to hold the workpiece tightly against the rip fence.
Align the back table with the highest point of the cutting edge path of the knives, as shown in the illustration to the right. Then use a proven square to ensure that the rip fence is positioned exactly at right angles to the back table. To achieve excellent result When planing, always press the workpiece against the fence. Slowly feed the board onto the rotating cutter head. When the front end of the board passes over the blades, move the pressure point forward so that the board is pressed against the back table. To obtain a good result, adjust the back table and longitudinal fence.
Plan to complete most of your routing work in multiple passes, setting the fence to the final height or width for the last pass. Fix the position of the router after each change in the offset of the cutter. When removing grooves, tongues, folds and other joint elements, use clamps like the clamp comb shown here. It’s not difficult to make yourself, it doesn’t require a lot of material.
Final fit guarantees success
Regardless of how many joints you need to make on the machine, always make test runs and sample joints using scraps after each setting change. Adjustments should be continued until the test connection is tightly assembled, and only then can you begin processing the project details. But despite all your efforts, sometimes you can find imperfections in the connections. Sawdust on the saw table or unnoticed warping of a previously planed piece can ruin the work and make assembly impossible. If the part is too thick or wide, resist the temptation to use machines to adjust the size. Precise fitting is best left to hand tools.
- Small zenzubel. With its help, it is possible to quickly remove a layer with a thickness of 0.5 mm or more from a wide spike or ridge. A zenzubel with a small angle of inclination of the piece is especially effective when working across the grain. The cutting edge protruding from the side allows you to process internal corner close to the shoulder of the tenon.
- Rasp or file. A flat, coarsely cut rasp removes material quickly, but leaves a rougher surface than a plane. A flat file works slower, but it is good for smoothing the surface.
- Sandpaper. If you only need to remove a small amount of material from a tenon or other wide surface, apply a piece of 100-grit sandpaper to a suitable scrap board or block of cork. Use self-adhesive sandpaper or apply regular sandpaper using spray adhesive or double-sided tape. This method allows you to process only one plane without affecting adjacent ones, as happens if you simply wrap a block with sandpaper.
- Chisel. Blades of different widths will allow you to remove material from any hard to reach places. When sanding a flat surface, hold the chisel with the bevel facing up, pressing the flat front edge against the wood.
When using a rasp, chisel or any other tool to remove material, take your time and regularly check the result by connecting the parts.
Plan your assembly sequence carefully
You have carefully cut out all the parts, achieved tightness in all joints and are now ready to start assembling. But before you open the glue bottle, be sure to do a dry assembly test (without glue). When assembling the product, determine in what order it is best to connect the parts, how many clamps will be needed to tightly compress all the joints, and how best to place the clamps so that there are no distortions.
It's best to break up large, complex projects into several simple steps rather than frantically trying to glue all the pieces together in one go. For example, when making a cabinet with paneled sides, first assemble the frames with panels, and then proceed with the main assembly. This approach gives you more time to check all connections and requires fewer clamps. Another way to gain time is to use glue with an extended setting time. For example, regular yellow Titebond glue allows you to complete the entire assembly in 15 minutes, and the Titebond Extend variety allows you to level the glue within 25 minutes.
When installing clamps, make sure that their pressure is applied to the middle of the connection. An incorrectly installed clamp can deform the parts so that a gap forms between them. Sometimes, despite all efforts, the connections do not turn out neat. An accidentally slipped tool, inattention, or undetected sawdust near the stop lead to a loose connection or a noticeable gap in it.
Assemble the cabinet in stages, first gluing together the small side panel frames. Then you can pay more attention to each connection. Then start assembling the case
How can you salvage a seemingly damaged work?
The gap can be sealed with a mixture of quick-setting epoxy glue and dust from sanding the same wood (the mixture should have the consistency of a thick paste). It is better to use epoxy glue instead of PVA, since the putty inevitably spreads over the surfaces adjacent to the joint and the epoxy glue hardens without being absorbed into the wood. Excess of this composition can be easily removed by sanding to avoid problems when applying the finish. Use this filling method when it comes first appearance connection, not its strength.
If during trial assembly the tenon dangles in the socket, such a connection will not be strong. Filling gaps with glue won't do any good, so take the time to reinforce a thin part with wood. Saw out two overlays so that the tenon is slightly thicker than required, and glue them on both sides. After drying, adjust the tenon again to the size of the socket.
Turn a disadvantage into an advantage
Sometimes it is better not to hide traces of repair, but to make them visible. In a too narrow ash tenon, we made two cuts and inserted thin cherry wedges into them, which tightly pressed the narrow cheeks of the tenon to the edges of the nest. In other cases, such as when joining with a hidden tenon, small chamfers or roundings along the edges of the hanger will make the loose joint less noticeable.
Replace part
This can happen to any of us. Some mistakes do not make sense to correct for two reasons: (1) if, regardless of your skill and effort, the unsightly defect will remain noticeable or (2) if it is faster and easier to do new part to replace the damaged one.
There are a myriad of joints you can use to join wood pieces together. The names and classifications of joinery and carpentry joints, as a rule, vary significantly depending on the country, region and even school of woodworking. The skill lies in the precision of execution to ensure a properly functioning connection that can withstand the loads intended for it.
Initial information
Connection categories
All connections (in carpentry they are called ties) of wooden parts according to their area of application can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):
- box;
- frame (frame);
- for joining/merging.
Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture drawers and arrangement of cabinets, frames are used in window frames and doors, and joining/merging is used to obtain parts of increased width/length.
Many compounds can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.
Preparation of material
Even planed lumber may need some preparation.
- Cut the material with a margin of width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut the length yet.
- Choose the best quality surface - the front side. Plane it along its entire length. Check with a straight edge.
After final alignment, make a mark for the front side with a pencil. - Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straight edge and a square against the front side. Use planing to smooth out any warping. Mark the clean edge.
- Using a thicknesser, mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan to this risk. Check with a straight edge.
- Repeat the operation for the width.
- Now mark the length and the actual connections. Mark from the front side to the clean edge.
Marking lumber
Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for the width of cuts, thickness of planing and connections.
Take all readings from the front side and the clean edge, on which place the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. To make sorting and assembling easier, number the parts on the front side as they are manufactured, to indicate, for example, that side 1 connects to end 1.
When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there may be “right” and “left” parts.
Butt joints
These are the simplest of carpentry joints. They can fall into all three categories of compounds.
Assembly
The butt joint can be strengthened with nails driven in at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.
Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and connect them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, you can apply glue to the parts to strengthen the fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a wavy key on the outside, or with a wooden block secured from the inside.
Pin/dowel connections
Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These insertable round tenons increase shear (shear) strength and, due to the adhesive, secure the assembly more reliably. Dowel joints can be used as frame joints (furniture), box joints (cabinets) or for joining/splicing (panels).
Assembling the dowel connection
1. Carefully cut out all components to the exact dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the post.
2. Mark center lines for the dowels on the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end should be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide crossbar may require more than two dowels.
Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar and use the square to transfer them to the rack.
3. Lay the rack and bar face up. Using the square, transfer the center lines to the stand. Number and label all connections if there is more than one pair of posts and crossbars.
4. Transfer these markings to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.
5. From the front side, use a thicknesser to draw a line in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.
Use a thicknesser to draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the holes for the dowels.
6. Electric drill with twist drill or hand drill With a feather drill, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and scorers. The hole across the fibers should have a depth of approximately 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole in the end should have a depth equal to approximately 3 times the diameter. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm; the dowel should not reach the bottom by this distance.
7. Use a countersink to remove excess fibers from the top of the holes. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.
Nageli
The dowel must have a longitudinal groove (now standard dowels are made with longitudinal ribs), along which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then plan it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.
Using centers to mark dowels
Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel centers into the holes for the dowels. Align the crossbar with the post markings and press the pieces together. The points of the centers will make marks on the stand. Drill holes through them. As an alternative, you can make a template from a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for dowels through the holes in it.
Using a conductor for a dowel connection
A metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates marking and drilling holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the faces of wide panels.
conductor for pin connections
1. Mark center lines on the front side of the material where the dowel holes should be. Select a suitable drill guide and insert it into the jig.
2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the movable support of the guide bushing.
3. Install the jig onto the part. Align the centering notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.
4. Install a drill depth stop on the drill in the required location.
Rally
To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with their wide sides together, align their ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vice. On the clean edge, draw perpendicular lines to indicate the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, use a thicknesser to score marks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the holes for the dowels.
The nail joint is neat and durable.
Notch / mortise connections
A notch, mortise or groove connection is called a corner or median connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. Used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.
Types of jack/punch connections
The main types of notch joints are a tee notch in the dark/semi-dark (often this term is replaced by the term “flush/semi-dark”), which looks like a butt joint, but stronger, a corner notch (corner connection) in a quarter and a corner notch in the dark/semi-dark. A corner notch into a rebate and a corner notch into a rebate with darkness/semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.
Carrying out cutting
1. Mark a groove on the front side of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines to both edges.
2. Using a thickness gauge, mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste portion of the material.
3. C-clamp securely fasten the part. Saw the shoulders on the outgoing side of the marking lines to the required depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.
Saw close to the marking line on the waste side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.
4. Using a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check that the bottom is even. You can use a primer to level the bottom.
Use a chisel to remove waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.
5. Check the fit; if the part fits too tightly, it may need to be trimmed. Check for squareness.
6. The notch connection can be strengthened in one of the following ways or a combination of them:
- gluing and clamping until the glue sets;
- screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
- nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
- Nailing obliquely across a corner.
The notch connection is quite strong
Groove and side tongue joints
This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes for window openings.
Making a connection
1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. Mark the shoulder on one part, measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and the front side.
2. Mark the second shoulder from the end side; it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.
3. Using a thickness gauge, mark the depth of the groove (one-third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.
4. Using a hacksaw, saw through the shoulders to the thickness line. Remove waste with a chisel and check the alignment.
5. Using a thicknesser with the same setting, mark a line on back side and on the edges of the second part.
Adviсe:
- Mortise and tongue-and-groove joints can be easily made using a router and a suitable guide - either for the groove only, or for both the groove and the tongue. Recommendations for proper operation with a router, see p. 35.
- If the comb fits into the groove too tightly, trim the face (smooth) side of the comb or sand it with sandpaper.
6. From the front side, use a thicknesser to mark the edges towards the end and at the end itself. Saw along the lines of the planer with a hacksaw. Don't cut too deep as this will weaken the joint.
7. Using a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Half-tree connections
Half-timber joints are frame joints that are used to join parts together face to face or along an edge. The joint is made by removing the same amount of material from each piece so that they fit flush with each other.
Types of half-tree connections
There are six main types of half-timber joints: transverse, corner, flush, miter, dovetail and splice.
Making a half-tree corner connection
1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.
2. Set the thicknesser to half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one piece and the bottom side of the other piece.
3. Clamp the part in a vice at an angle of 45° (faces vertical). Saw carefully along the grain, close to the thickness line on the waste side, until the saw is diagonal. Turn the piece over and continue cutting carefully, gradually lifting the saw handle until the saw is aligned with the shoulder line on both edges.
4. Remove the part from the vice and place it on the surface. Press it tightly to the tsulaga and clamp it with a clamp.
5. Saw the shoulder to the previously made cut and remove the waste. Use a chisel to smooth out any unevenness in the sample. Check that the cut is neat.
6. Repeat the process on the second piece.
7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level them with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps or backlash.
8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, and glue.
Miter corner connections
Miter corner joints are made by bevelling the ends and hide the end grain and are aesthetically more consistent with the angular rotation of the decorative trim.
Types of miter corner joints
To bevel the ends in corner connection The angle at which the parts meet is divided in half by an angle. In a traditional connection, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or acute. In uneven miter corner joints, parts with different widths are connected.
Performing miter joints
1. Mark the length of the pieces, keeping in mind that it should be measured along the long side, since the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.
2. Having decided on the length, mark a line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.
3. Using a combination square, transfer the markings to all sides of the part.
4. When manual cutting use a miter box and a hacksaw with an edge or a hand one miter saw. Press the piece firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will be uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are simply sawing by hand, watch the process so as not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A power miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.
5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the bevel surface with a plane. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp plane, setting the knife overhang to a small extent.
6. The connection should be nailed through both parts. To do this, first place the parts on the surface and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly appear from the bevels.
Place nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.
7. Apply glue and press the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly and overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under the blows of the hammer when hammering nails, the part will move slightly. The surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the joint and countersink the nail heads. Check for squareness.
Drive the nails into the protruding part first and the hammer will move the joint into position.
8. If due to unevenness of the workmanship there is a small gap, smooth the connection on both sides with the round blade of a screwdriver. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, you will either have to redo the connection or seal the gap with putty.
9. To strengthen the corner connection, the miter can be glued inside the corner wooden block, if it is not visible. If appearance is important, the connection can be made using a tenon or secured with veneer dowels. Dowels or lamellas (standard flat plug-in tenons) can be used inside flat joints.
Miter splicing and cutting connection
A miter splice connects the ends of parts that are located on the same straight line, and a rip joint is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.
Miter splicing
When miter splicing, the parts are connected with identical bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.
Connection with cutter
A connection with a cut (with a cut, with a fit) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in a corner, for example, two baseboards or cornices. If the part moves during the process of fastening it, the gap will be less noticeable than with a miter joint.
1. Secure the first baseboard in place. Move the second plinth located along the wall close to it.
Clamp the first baseboard in place and press the second baseboard against it, lining it up with the wall.
2. Run a small wooden block with a pencil pressed to it along the profile surface of the fixed baseboard. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth being marked.
Using a block with a pencil pressed to it, with the tip pointed at the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the cut line.
3. Cut along the marking line. Check the fit and adjust if necessary.
Complex profiles
Place the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the required shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.
Lug connections
Lug joints are used when there is a need to connect intersecting parts located “On Edge”, either at the corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of a window sash or where a table leg meets a crossbar).
Types of lug connections
The most common types of eyelet connections are corner and T-shaped (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but it can be strengthened with a dowel.
Making an eyelet connection
1. Mark the same as for, but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part you will need to select the middle. This groove is called an eye. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a tenon.
2. Saw along the grain to the shoulder line along the marking lines on the waste side. Use a hacksaw to cut out the shoulders, and you will get a tenon.
3. Working from both sides, remove material from the eye with a chisel/mortise chisel or jigsaw.
4. Check the fit and adjust with a chisel if necessary. Apply glue to the joint surfaces. Check for squareness. Using a C-clamp, clamp the joint while the glue hardens.
Tenon to socket connection
Tenon-to-socket joints, or simply tenon joints, are used when two parts are joined at an angle or intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in joinery and is used in the making of doors, window frames and furniture.
Types of tenon-to-socket connections
The two main types of tenon joints are the usual tenon-to-socket joint and the stepped tenon-to-socket joint (semi-dark). The tenon and socket make up approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The socket is widened on one side of the groove (semi-dark), and a tenon step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps prevent the thorn from being turned out of the socket.
Conventional tenon-to-socket connection
1. Determine the joint position on both pieces and mark all sides of the material. The marking shows the width of the intersecting part. The tenon will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The tenon should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the joint.
2. Select a chisel that is as close in size as possible to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thicknesser to the size of the chisel and mark the socket in the middle of the post between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front side. If desired, you can set the thicknesser solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.
H. In the same way, mark the tenon on the end and both sides until you mark the shoulders on the crossbar.
4. In a vice, clamp an auxiliary support in the form of a piece of wood high enough so that you can attach the stand to it, turned “on edge.” Secure the stand to the support, placing the clamp next to the marking of the socket.
5. Cut out a nest with a chisel, making an allowance inwards of about 3 mm from each end so as not to damage the edges when removing waste. Hold the chisel straight, maintaining parallelism
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the socket. Repeat from the other end.
6. Make several intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and with the sharpening bevel down. Select a retreat, using the chisel as a lever. Having gone deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about halfway thick. Turn the piece over and work the same way on the other side.
7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean out the nest and cut off the previously left allowance to the marking lines on each side.
8. Cut a tenon along the fibers, running a hacksaw along the marking line on the waste side, and cut out the shoulders.
9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the tenon should fit neatly into the post, the connection should be perpendicular and have no play.
10. To secure, you can insert wedges on both sides of the tenon. The gap for this is made in the socket. Working with a chisel from the outside of the socket, widen it to about two-thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. The wedges are made with the same bias.
11. Apply glue and squeeze tightly. Check for squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.
Other tenon joints
Tenon joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from tenon joints in semi-darkness, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and/or lining for glass or panel (panel). When making a tenon-to-socket connection on a part with a rebate, make the plane of the tenon in line with the edge of the rebate. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is made shorter so as not to block the fold.
Tenon joints for parts with overlays have a shoulder that is cut to match the profile of the overlay. An alternative is to remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the mating piece.
Other types of tenon-to-socket connections:
- Side tenon - in the manufacture of doors.
- A hidden beveled tenon in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the tenon.
- A tenon in the dark (tenon steps on both sides) - for relatively wide parts, such as the bottom trim (bar) of a door.
All these connections can be through, or they can be blind, when the end of the tenon is not visible from reverse side racks. They can be strengthened with wedges or dowels.
Rally
Wide, high quality timber is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. In addition, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes working with them difficult. To join narrow boards along the edges into wide panels for tabletops or workbench covers, they use bonding.
Preparation
Before starting the bonding itself, you must do the following:
- If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage deformations than lumber tangential sawing. If tangentially sawn boards are used, then place their core side alternately in one direction and the other.
- Try not to combine materials with in different ways cutting into one panel.
- Do not under any circumstances weld together boards from different breeds wood if they are not dried properly. They will shrink and crack differently.
- If possible, place the boards with the grain in the same direction.
- Be sure to cut the material to size before joining.
- Use only good quality glue.
- If the wood will be polished, select the texture or color.
Rallying on a smooth fugue
1. Lay out all the boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn along the joints at an angle.
2. Plane straight edges and check fit to appropriate adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.
3. Make sure there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or fill it with putty, the connection will subsequently crack.
4. When planing short pieces, clamp two in a vise, right sides together, and plane both edges at the same time. There is no need to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when joining they will mutually compensate for their possible tilt.
5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply glue. Using squeezing and rubbing, connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces “suck” to each other.
Other ways to rally
Other bonding connections with different strengths are prepared in the same way. These include:
- with dowels (dowels);
- in tongue and groove;
- at a quarter.
Gluing and fixing with clamps
Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.
Adhesives
The glue strengthens the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. When working with adhesives, be sure to wear protective gloves and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product from excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the plane blade and clog the abrasive sandpaper.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA glue is a universal wood glue. While still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly glues loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong connection and sticks to almost any porous surface. Provides a permanent connection but is not heat or moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or for large surfaces, dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has water base, then shrinks when setting.
Contact glue
Contact adhesive bonds immediately after application and joining of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, press them together. It is used for laminate or veneer to chipboard. No fixation required. Can be cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Handle it in a well-ventilated area to reduce fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use as it is not moisture or heat resistant.
Epoxy glue
Epoxy glue is the strongest of the adhesives used in woodworking, and the most expensive. This is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink when set and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Waterproof and bonds to almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass ( organic glass). Suitable for outdoor use. In an uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.
Hot melt adhesive
Hot melt, solventless adhesive will stick to almost anything, including many plastics. Typically sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun. Apply glue, connect the surfaces and compress for 30 seconds. No fixation required. Can be cleaned with solvents.
Fixation clips
Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a spacer between the clamp and the workpiece. wood waste to avoid indentations from the applied pressure.
Gluing and fixation technique
Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock as necessary to check connections and overall dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, arranging the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare clamps with jaws/stops set at the required distance.
Frame assembly
Using a brush, spread the glue evenly onto all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess glue and secure the assembly with clamps. Apply even pressure to compress the joints. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.
Place the clamps as close to the connection as possible. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a light but sharp blow to one end of the post can straighten the shape. Adjust the clamps if necessary.
If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, tap the protruding areas with a mallet through a block of wood as a spacer. If this does not help, you may need to loosen the clamps or use clamps to secure a piece of wood across the frame.
Since ancient times, after mastering the tools of labor, man began to build a dwelling from wood. Having gone through evolution, man continues to improve the construction of his home for thousands of years. Certainly modern technologies simplified construction, gave great opportunity for imagination, but basic knowledge about the properties of wooden structures is passed down from generation to generation. Let's look at ways to connect wooden parts.
Let's look at the methods of joining wooden parts that novice craftsmen encounter. Basically, these are carpentry joints passed down from generation to generation, these skills have been used for centuries. Before we start joining wood, we assume that the wood has already been processed and is ready for use.
The first basic rule that should be followed when connecting wooden parts is that a thin part is attached to a thicker one.
The most common methods of joining wood, which will be needed during the construction of personal buildings, comes in several types.
End connection
This is one of the most simple ways connections (cohesion). With this method, it is necessary to fit the surfaces of the two elements being connected as tightly as possible. The parts are pressed tightly against each other and fastened with nails or screws.
The method is simple, but to obtain the quality of the product, several conditions must be met:
The length of the nails should be such that, having passed through the entire thickness of the first workpiece, they would reach their sharp end into the base of another part to a depth equal to at least ⅓ of the length of the nail;
The nails should not be located on the same line, and their number should be at least two. That is, one of the nails is shifted upward from the center line, and the second, on the contrary, downward;
The thickness of the nails should be such that when they are driven in, a crack does not appear in the wood. Pre-drilling holes will help to avoid the appearance of cracks in wood, and the diameter of the drill should be equal to 0.7 of the diameter of the nails;
To receive best quality The joints and surfaces to be joined must first be well lubricated with glue, and it is better to use moisture-resistant glue, such as epoxy.
Overhead connection
With this method, two pieces are placed on top of each other and secured together using nails, screws or bolts. Wooden blanks, with this joining method, can be placed along one line or shifted at a certain angle relative to each other. In order for the angle of connection of the workpieces to be rigid, it is necessary to fasten the parts with at least four nails or screws in two rows of two pieces in a row.
If you are fastening with only two nails, screws or bolts, then they should be placed diagonally. If the nails have a through exit through both parts, followed by bending the protruding ends, this connection method will significantly increase the strength. No overhead connection required highly qualified masters
Half-tree connection
This method is more complex; it requires certain skills and a more scrupulous approach to work. For such a connection, a sample of wood is made in both wooden blanks to a depth equal to half their thickness, and a width equal to the width of the parts being connected.
You can connect parts into half a tree at different angles.
It is important to follow the following rule:
So that the sampling angle on both parts is equal, and the width of both sampling strictly corresponds to the width of the part. If these conditions are met, the parts will fit tightly to each other, and their edges will be located in the same plane. The connection is secured with nails, screws or bolts, and glue is still used to enhance strength. If necessary, such a connection can be partial. That is, the end of one of the workpieces is cut at a certain angle, and a corresponding selection is made in the other part. This connection is used for corner joining. In this case, both tenons (samples) are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, and the joint between them is located diagonally.
Length splicing
This splicing of bars and beams along the length has its own characteristics.
As a rule, splicing is simple for vertical supports.
But it’s a completely different matter when the beam or timber at the splice point is subject to bending or torsion loads, in which case simple fastening You can't get by with nails or screws.
The spliced parts are cut at an angle (into an oblique overlay) and compressed with bolts. The number of bolts depends on the applied loads, but there must be at least two.
Sometimes additional overlays are installed, for example, metal plates, preferably on both sides, top and bottom; for strength, you can additionally fasten it with wire.
Cleat
This connection is used for flooring or for sheathing boards. To do this, a tenon is made in the edge of one board, and a groove is made in the other.
With this splicing, gaps between the boards are eliminated, and the sheathing itself acquires beautiful view. Appropriately processed lumber is supplied to the retail chain, where it can be purchased in finished form.
Examples of such materials include batten or lining.
Connection “socket-spike”
This is one of the most common connections of wooden parts.
This connection will provide a strong, rigid and neat connection.
It goes without saying that it requires the performer to have certain skills and accuracy in work.
When making this connection, you need to remember that a poor-quality tenon connection will not add reliability and will not have a beautiful appearance.
A tenon joint consists of a groove hollowed out or drilled in one of the wooden parts, as well as a tenon made at the end of another element being attached.
The parts must have the same thickness, but if the thickness is different, then the socket is made in the part that is thicker, and the tenon is made in the second, thinner part. The connection is made using glue with additional fastening with nails and screws. When screwing in a screw, remember that pre-drilling will make the process easier. It is better to conceal the screw head, and the guide hole should be ⅔ of the diameter of the screw and 6 mm less than its length.
One of the very important conditions is the same humidity of the parts being connected. If the elements being connected have different humidity levels, then when they dry, the tenon will decrease in size, which will lead to the destruction of the entire connection. That is why the parts being connected must have the same humidity, close to operating conditions. For external structures, humidity should be in the range of 30-25%.
Using wood to decorate buildings.
Choice of wood.
In carving, for making large crafts with large elements, they often use coniferous wood, as the main one. They are affordable, and the striped texture can be used in ornaments.
Used as a background for applied and slotted carvings fir.
Valuable material is cedar, its soft, with beautiful texture and a pleasant yellow-pink or light pink color of the wood core. The wood is easy to cut, cracks little when dried and is resistant to rotting.
Wood pears used for highly artistic carving details, as it is durable and does not warp easily from atmospheric influences.
Poplar, the wood is very soft and light - used for making carved decorative columns or background panels for attaching overhead carvings.
It is good to use wood to make chains from round rings apple trees. This wood is used in small crafts and in applied carvings. In this case, the springy properties of the apple tree are used.
Wood is also used linden trees. Very light, well planed, drills and sands well.
carving from oak labor-intensive to manufacture due to its hardness.
But oak is not afraid of moisture and does not warp. Products from natural wood very beautiful, but expensive. To reduce the cost of the product, veneering is used. For example, veneered doors are made, according to the client’s order, “in oak.” We get beautiful doors, are similar in appearance to natural ones, but at a much lower price.