Proportions of masonry mortar
For bricklaying, mortars of grades M25, M50 and M75 are used.
Proportions sand to cement: M25 - 5:1
; M50 — 4:1
; M75 — 3:1
.
The amount of water depends greatly on the moisture content of the sand, so “up to the desired viscosity”
Usually, in private construction, no one precisely measures these proportions, everything is done by eye.
To improve the plasticity of the solution, “specialists from the people” recommend adding detergents from 50 to 100 g liquid soap or powder for 5-6 buckets of solution. → But I didn’t add it, it was unclear how this additive would manifest itself in the future.
Dry mixtures sold in construction stores are better only because they do not require additional stirring. The cost of a solution from such mixtures is two to three times more expensive than a homemade composition - sand plus cement. In addition, if you recalculate it by the number of bags, then you will have to move them four times more in weight than the same cement. Sand can be brought by dump truck.
Sand for the solution must be sifted without fail. Moreover, using a mesh from an armored bed for this is not the best option due to the large size of the cells.
Construction mixer for concrete
If masonry with seams of one centimeter or less is required, larger pebbles create problems during installation, preventing the brick from being leveled on the mortar.
I used a mesh of metal wires with a mesh of 8 mm, stretching it over wooden frame. The frame was placed at an angle, and sand was thrown through it. Before that, I tried to stretch a fiberglass mesh onto the same frame, but unfortunately it stretched and broke after the first wheelbarrow of sand.
My concrete mixer
The proportion of cement to sand was approximately 1:4. Water was added by eye in such a way that the solution was not liquid, that is, it did not spread on a flat surface and at the same time was sufficiently plastic, allowing the brick to be laid to be leveled.
The solution was mixed in a twenty-liter bucket from bitumen mastic, using a drill and a special attachment. At that time we did not have a concrete mixer and it was not entirely suitable for preparing a small amount of masonry mortar. If you need a bucket or two at a time, then using a concrete mixer is more problematic than effective, because it must be washed after use.
When mixing the solution with a drill attachment, not everything goes smoothly. Neither a drill nor a hammer drill are designed for such a load. They heat up quickly and fail much faster, but after trying to mix sand with cement in this way, I don’t want to go back to the shovel at all. Still, the attachment on the drill beats the mixture much better, and you don’t get tired at all when kneading.
When using attachments for stirring the solution, you must be prepared for the fact that this product will break quite quickly. Over the course of the season, the beaters in two of our attachments wore out and fell apart, and in two more the attachments to the SDS cam broke off. They are not expensive and considering that they work in sand like sandpaper, it is not so scary. What was more upsetting was that the Chinese drill eventually burned out, although we of course gave it a “cut” for the construction. The DVT 750 W rotary hammer seemed somewhat more durable, although the bearing and brushes had to be changed.
In the end, I found some compromise by using nozzles with a small diameter. Even if they interfere longer, the load on the drill is not so great; there is a chance that the surviving hammer drill will survive until the end of construction.
From topic ⇒
Brick output zero level towers
⇐ From topic
Raising the foundation line with bricks
During implementation repair work
very often it is necessary to use a wide variety of manual, automatic or semi-automatic operations: chiselling, drilling, polishing, grinding, cutting, welding, etc. It is known that for each repair operation there is its own specialized tool.
It is not always necessary to perform these operations equally often: sometimes it happens that a repair operation occurs relatively rarely or even once. What to do then? Run and buy the one you need construction tool for one-time use? Borrow from neighbors, acquaintances or friends “for a couple of days”? Of course, there is a desire to use a tool that is already in use to replace the missing one.
The most common tool used in repair and construction work, is a hammer drill. Almost everyone who has encountered repairs at least once in their life has this power tool. On the other hand, one of the most rarely used tools today is construction mixer, designed for mixing various construction and repair solutions. The reason for its rare use in repairs is the usually small amount of solution (varnish, glue, etc.) stirred at a time, in which it is quite possible to do without mechanization: stir by hand.
However, there are cases when it is simply necessary to use electromechanical stirring: a very viscous medium, a large volume, a harmful environment, a large mass of one batch, specificity of the process (uniformity, very fast or very slow shaft rotation speeds, a combination of them), short terms, requiring high performance, etc.
Construction mixer - how to make a quality mixture?
In all of the above methods, they try to replace the mixer with a puncher when mixing. How justified is this? Is the hammer drill capable of performing a function that is not typical for its main application? We will try to answer all these questions in this article.
As is known, modern rotary hammers capable of operating in at least two modes: drilling and hammer drilling. It is also known that for drilling into a standard chuck type SDS+ an adapter (additional chuck) is inserted under the drills. Therefore, the nozzle for mixing from a mixer It won't be too difficult to insert. Next. Quite a few rotary hammers have a built-in mechanical gearbox that allows you to operate at different speeds. Then, obviously, the whole point of execution new feature for a hammer drill is concentrated in its drive.
All manual hammer drills, as well as mixers, they are equipped with a universal commutator motor, the shaft speed of which is controlled by decreasing or increasing the supply voltage. The question then comes down to the characteristics of these engines, the main ones being the maximum engine speed, shaft power and shaft torque.
Let's consider the operation of a hammer drill separately for two types of stirred media: low-viscosity and high-viscosity. To stir a low-viscosity solution, a small torque and different shaft speeds are required. It is known that single-speed rotary hammers are controlled by the force of pressing the trigger, which is usually located in the handle of the power tool. By applying different forces of pressing the trigger, we smoothly change the revolutions of the shaft (spindle): with a weak press, low revolutions, and with a strong press, high speeds up to the maximum.
The problem is that the speed lock, as a rule, only works when the trigger is fully pulled, that is, at maximum engine speed. This is very inconvenient when stirring. The solution, obviously, is to operate such a tool through a step-down transformer (you can use LATR), the power of which should exceed or be equal to power consumption of the hammer drill. In this case, the work of the hammer drill as a mixer has every chance of success.
In addition, there are currently models of rotary hammers with adjustable speed control, which can also be used as mixers. You should always remember that the lower the power supply voltage of the rotary hammer motor, the lower the efficiency of such a motor.
The situation is more complicated with highly viscous media. Mixing them usually requires low speed and high torque. If the speed can be adjusted by connecting a step-down transformer to the hammer drill (as in the above-described case of working with low-viscosity media), then this will not work with torque, since when the voltage supplied from the transformer decreases, the torque on the shaft drops along with the shaft speed (smooth characteristic) .
It follows that work via transformer(at low voltages) is only beneficial when the torque of the hammer drill exceeds the required torque for mixing the medium, and this does not happen very often. Otherwise, the hammer will need additional cooling (especially at low shaft speeds, at which the fan built into the engine does not create more or less normal air flow to the manifold of such an engine), since otherwise the overheating protection will work (the engine temperature sensor will turn off the power to the hammer) .
In addition to additional cooling, you can use some other techniques: reducing the diameter of the working part of the nozzle (This is one of the most effective ways reducing the required torque!), reducing the diameter of the container and/or the height of the mixed layer. Ideal option is a multi-speed hammer drill. Using it, you can work with viscous solutions at the first speed at low shaft speeds and at the second speed with low-viscosity solutions at high speeds.
Let's consider hammer drill operation in relation to high-speed mixing to obtain foamy solutions or fine suspensions and/or emulsions. The standard maximum operation of a rotary hammer is approximately 1000 - 2000 rpm, which is quite enough for most mixing in normal mode.
However, to achieve great turnover with the help of such hammer drills without using external 
mechanical gearboxes are not possible, since engine operation is limited by the supply voltage (220 V). For rotary hammers with a built-in gearbox, the maximum shaft speed will be equal to the highest gear ratio of the gearbox and maximum voltage nutrition.
Thus, hammer drill It can be used as a mixer. For slightly viscous media, an additional step-down transformer may be required, although this is not necessary. Highly viscous fluids may require additional motor cooling or more frequent mixing pauses than usual to cool the motor. For high-speed (very fast) mixing exceeding the maximum rotary hammer shaft speed, an additional external mechanical gearbox may be required
Advantages of using a drill mixer for construction work
For preparing cement, paint, glue and other building mixtures in large volumes, drill attachments for mixing the solution are best suited. They are a metal rod on which an impeller is attached - a curved metal or plastic rod (corolla).
Before you choose drill mixer, you need to decide on its important parameters, which depend on the specifics of the planned work.
Main Features
- On shank type should be paid attention to first. This characteristic determines whether the product you choose will fit your drill model. The most popular type of mixer attachment for a drill is the M14 type, like the Sparky 161475 mixer. Its main advantage is the fairly simple change of attachment when working with quick-drying or particularly sticky mixtures.
How to stir construction mixtures?
However, it should be remembered that to replace the nozzle, you need a wrench of the appropriate size. While another type of shank - hexagonal - can be clamped with a conventional three-jaw chuck.
- Impeller material affects which substances can be mixed using a particular mixer attachment. Mixers with an impeller made of durable steel, such as Metabo 631963000, are recommended for working with heavy mortars: cement, putty, insulating materials, etc. Mixers with an impeller made of plastic, such as, will do an excellent job of preparing lighter solutions, such as paints. In addition, the plastic will not damage or scratch the walls of the container in which mixing occurs.
- Stirrer length affects the depth of the solution that will be mixed using a specific nozzle. Manufacturers produce equipment of different lengths. However standard sizes 400 mm are considered, for example Enkor 27406, and 600 mm, like y). But the Pro for drills FIT IT 04260 has a length of 600 mm and is suitable for significant volumes of mixtures.
- Diameter - the processing time of the entire volume depends on it: the larger the diameter, the faster the mixture will be stirred. Our website presents a wide range of models with a drill whisk diameter from 60 mm, like Enkor 27414, to 220 mm, like the EXPERT attachment for Zubr ZMRN-2-220 mixers.
I made a website about homemade products myself. On our website you will find homemade products; clear instructions will help you easily assemble and use the homemade product you have chosen at home or at work.
DIY mixer drill
Both a mixer and an electric drill are far from essential items. Not everyone can afford to keep both at home. But even if you can boast of having an electric drill at home, most often it is a powerful kilowatt device that is convenient for drilling walls. But it will be quite difficult to drill out radio boards or repair shoes with it, right? That's why I had the idea to make a special attachment for the mixer, with which you can now not only cook an omelette, but also make a hole in the hard to reach place drill.
The adapter for the drill is inserted into the socket of the “high-speed knife” attachment. If you have a rubber joint between the mixer and the nozzle, you will have to redo that too. Because the force that he is able to transmit is not even enough to operate a coffee grinder. A square is best for joining, but a hexagon is also suitable.
The drawing shows the dimensions of the nozzle parts for the MP-2E mixer produced by the Minsk Electrical Equipment Plant, but due to the similarity of all mixer models, the correction will be quite insignificant. I took the cartridge from hand drill. You shouldn’t count on drills with a diameter of more than 5 mm even when drilling wood (after all, the power of the mixer’s electric motor does not exceed 100 W), so if you have the opportunity to choose a chuck, you should choose the smallest possible size.
Scheme for making a drill from a mixer with your own hands
Parts 3 and 4 require manufacturing at lathe; in the absence of a head the right size For part 3, the hexagon groove will have to be milled. In the case of complete production of part 3, a small improvement can be made, which is as follows. To eliminate the additional friction surface between 3 and 4, make a hole for the hexagon with a slope of 5-6 degrees relative to the horizontal axis. This is necessary so that the head, sitting on the hexagon, engages with it as it moves and becomes jammed by friction forces. In this case, there will be a small gap between the head and the bushing, which will prevent additional heating of the unit and the associated loss of power.
Part 4 can be made from any structural steel, but if you can find a piece of polyethylene suitable sizes, the design will only benefit. If structural steel is used, provisions should be made through hole in the bushing for shaft lubrication; the polyethylene bushing should be lubricated with grease. Typically, the chuck shaft is hardened superficially, and the MB thread should be easy to cut. The nozzle is assembled as follows. A sleeve is put on the chuck shaft, then the head is screwed on.
Choosing a drill mixer
The assembled nozzle is screwed to the mixer using the MZO thread.
The use of the attachment is also supported by the fact that the mixer, unlike most electric drills, has smooth adjustment rotation speed, which creates additional convenience during work. By the way, perhaps you have an old photographic enlarger lying around? In the conditions of Kodak's victorious offensive, you are unlikely to need it anymore, and its tripod can be adapted for a drilling machine. A tripod with a rack from an Upa photo enlarger is especially convenient. The adjustment flywheel moves the drill as smoothly as on drilling machine. If you have a low-power “Master” drill, you can place it on a tripod.
Video instructions - how to make a drill from a mixer
Section: Various homemade products Date of publication: 03/17/2012, 18:49
When carrying out various construction and repair work, it is often necessary to mix several components to obtain a homogeneous composition of the mixture, be it various varnishes, paints, putties or sand-cement mortars. It is quite difficult to prepare a high-quality mixture by hand. To carry out such work an indispensable assistant will become a construction mixer - a special device that will significantly reduce labor costs, save time and obtain a high-quality mixture.
Classification by design
Structurally, all mixing devices consist of a drive and a nozzle. The drive housing contains an electric motor, a gearbox, a nozzle mounting system and controls (switch, speed switch). Nozzles are special devices that are fixed on the drive and with the help of which the components of the mixture are mixed. According to their purpose and area of application, modern construction mixers are divided into two classes:
- Drill mixers are dual-use devices. They are equipped with a jaw chuck, which allows you to securely fix in it both nozzles for mixing construction mixtures (with the appropriate shank diameter) and drills for making large-diameter holes. This tool is a low-speed drill, so it cannot functionally replace a conventional electric drill. However, low rotation speeds and high torque make it possible to use them not only to mix a wide variety of solutions (even heavy cement or sand and gravel), but also to use them for drilling large holes even in very hard materials.
- Construction electric mixers are highly specialized tools that are designed only for mixing various mixtures. Model range These devices are very diverse, you can even choose a construction mixer that will successfully replace a household concrete mixer (not inferior to it in terms of productivity, but significantly superior to it in ease of transportation and variety functionality). These devices are single-spindle (they provide for the installation of only one nozzle) and dual-spindle (they install two nozzles at once, which rotate in opposite directions).
Of course, when using any construction mixer, you will need an appropriate container for mixing the components.
Types of mixers depending on power
Depending on the power, which is the main technical characteristics, which determines the scope of application, construction mixers (both highly specialized and drill-mixers) can be divided into three main groups:
Advice! When we choose a construction hand mixer, we need to take into account not only its power, but also its weight. The more powerful the device, the heavier it is, which means it will be more difficult to work with.
Types of attachment mounting systems
Construction mixers from various manufacturers are equipped with different devices for fixing the nozzle:
- A jaw chuck in which the shank is fixed using a special crimp wrench (like a conventional electric drill).
- QuickFix jaw chuck (same as household screwdriver– compression is carried out without the use of a special tool).
- Threaded connection of the shank to the mixer M12, M14 (much less often M21), using a conventional wrench, which is included with the electric mixer.
- SDS-plus and SDS-max cartridges (the design is similar to mounting drills in household rotary hammers).
- HEX fastening system chucks (8, 10 or 12), for quick changing and fixing of devices with a hexagonal shank with a groove for spring fixation according to ISO 1173 E3.
Construction mixer attachments: shapes and sizes
Nozzle for electric construction mixer It is a rod, at one end of which there is a whisk for mixing, and at the other a shank for attaching the nozzle to the drive. Once you have decided on the composition of the mixture that needs to be mixed, you can choose the shape of the whisk. And the standard of the attachment shank should match your power tool.
Types of shanks for mixer attachments
Now on sale large number mixer attachments with shanks of various shapes:
- Regular hexagon, 8, 9 or 10 mm in size. These fixtures are designed for use in power tools that have a conventional jaw chuck.
- Hexagon (8, 10 or 12 mm) with groove for spring fastening in HEX chucks (they can also be used in power tools with a regular chuck).
- Thread M12, M14 and 21X1.5. Devices with such shanks can only be used in highly specialized mixers.
- Shanks designed for installation in SDS-plus chucks (can also be used in a simple hammer drill).
Dimensions and shapes of whisk attachments for mixers
Mixing attachments are produced:
- Standard lengths are 400 and 600 mm (for some, 400 mm extensions are provided - total length up to 1 m).
- The diameter of the whisk (the part intended for mixing) is from 80 to 220 mm.
The shape of the whisk is chosen depending on the mixture to be mixed. Basic shapes of corollas:
- Spiral. Such corollas are divided into right-handed, in which the spiral is twisted clockwise, and left-handed, in which the spiral is twisted counterclockwise. Right-handed beaters lift the solution from bottom to top during the mixing process and are designed for heavy or thick mixtures (concrete, sand-gravel, bitumen). Left-handed spirals, on the contrary, when mixing, capture the mixture from above and lower it down. They are designed for mixing various paint and varnish compositions, various fluid mixtures and liquid putties, since there is no splashing when using them.
Note! If the construction mixer is equipped with a reverse system that ensures that the whisk rotates both clockwise and counterclockwise, then for various compositions mixture, you can use only one nozzle (right-handed or left-handed).
- Corollas with straight blades. Mixing occurs only in a horizontal plane, which prevents air from being captured and entering the mixture. Suitable for mixing various gypsum-based compositions (air ingress is extremely undesirable), mixtures for self-leveling floors, and the like.
- Helical rims (the screw is usually made of plastic). Mainly used for lungs liquid formulations mixtures. Sometimes two screws are installed on the axis: the lower one, which lifts the components upward, and the upper one, which prevents the mixture from splashing.
Important! IN technical description Manufacturers indicate what type of mixture a particular whisk is intended for mixing, as well as the maximum recommended amount of solution for which it is designed.
Depending on the size, materials and purpose, the price of these accessories is in the range of 100–1100 rubles.
Homemade mixer
Making your own electric mixer is quite simple. To do this, you can use an ordinary household electric drill or hammer drill as a drive. For drills, devices with a shank in the form of a regular hexagon or HEX are suitable. Both are conveniently fixed in the drill chuck. The main thing is that the hexagon size (standard: 8, 10 and 12 mm) matches maximum size, which can be inserted into the drill chuck.
Attention! To mix solutions, you can use only low-speed drills or devices with variable speed control.
If you use a hammer drill as a drive (naturally, in non-impact mode), then you need to buy attachments with a shank designed for mounting in an SDS-plus chuck.
However, it should be noted that the motors and gearboxes of both electric drills and rotary hammers (even powerful ones) are designed only for longitudinal load. Therefore, a homemade mixer based on them is quite suitable for mixing light solutions and in small volumes. When stirring solutions, the drive experiences significant radial and horizontal loads, which can lead to overheating and failure of the electric motor. Therefore, it is better not to make a concrete mixer with your own hands from a drill or hammer drill. Although their use is quite acceptable when mixing paints, thin putties and other light solutions.
In conclusion
When choosing a device for mixing mixtures, you must be guided by their composition and volume. Based on this, you can choose a construction mixer with sufficient power so as not to overpay for an overly advanced unit. If you need a mini mixer for mixing concrete, then it is better to purchase a powerful semi-professional tool from a trusted manufacturer.
Hello to all do-it-yourselfers and DIYers!
In my homemade creativity, I constantly have to deal with painting products with various paints, stains, varnishes, etc. In addition, on the farm it is often necessary to carry out minor repairs related to painting various surfaces(mostly wooden).
As a rule, you don’t need a lot of paint for this, so the most common containers I use are 1-2 liter jars, no more.
Naturally, before using any paint, impregnation or varnish, you need to mix thoroughly, or even add solvent or white spirit for a more liquid consistency.
Previously, I usually mixed the paint by hand, but recently I decided to make a simple stirrer for this purpose from a single piece of durable steel wire.
Moreover, since paints or varnishes generally have to be mixed directly in jars, the maximum diameter of the working part of such a mixer should be such that it freely passes into the narrowest jar (usually a liter jar).
To make such a stirrer, I needed
- a piece of steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of approximately 60 cm,
- and from the tools: a hammer with an anvil, pliers and a file with a fine notch.
Mixer manufacturing process
First, I straightened the wire with a hammer, and at the same time slightly strengthened it.
And then he began to make a stirrer, bending the wire with pliers from side to side.
This process took about 15 minutes, and along the way I had to make corrections several times, leveling the wire with pliers and a hammer, and, in the end, this is what I got.
This mixer still had to be slightly balanced, for which I placed it on the edge of the workbench, and slightly twisting it with the fingers of my left hand, I looked at the position in which it stopped.
Ideally, neither side should outweigh.
I rounded all the ends of the wire with a file.
A bottom part I also bent it slightly upward so that it would not touch the bottom of the paint cans.
Thus, the stirrer was ready, but just in case, I decided to make more protective cover for the drill chuck so that it does not accidentally get splashed with paint while mixing.
For this I needed a piece of the upper part of a liter plastic bottle with a cover, as well as an electric drill with a drill with a diameter of 2.7 mm, and scissors.
In the center of the lid, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 2.7 mm.
And inserted the stirrer shank there. The lid should move quite tightly along the shank.
After this, all that remains is to cut out a casing of a suitable size from the top of the plastic bottle.
And screw it into the lid.
And now my mixer is ready!
Now you can clamp it into the drill.
After this, be sure to slide the casing onto the drill chuck.
And now you can mix the paint.
By the way, the length of this stirrer is ideal for both liter and 2-2.5 liter jars.
After work, you need to clean the paint from the mixer using a rag soaked in gasoline or solvent.
You can store this stirrer hanging, for example, by hanging it on a nail like this.
I must say that this mixer showed itself to work quite well, since it mixes the paint quite quickly and at the same time efficiently.
However, such a mixer still has limitations. Since it is not so strong and rigid, it is suitable for mixing mostly liquid paints or varnishes. Also, when using this stirrer, you should not use too high a rotation speed of the drill chuck, otherwise the stirrer may bend.
But in principle, since I deal mainly with fairly liquid paints and varnishes, this mixer is ideal for me.
Well, that's all for me! Bye everyone, good luck, and comfortable and productive work on homemade products!
In the bins of most average owners. For many, the tool is simply collecting dust in the closet. Some people use it regularly, painstakingly drilling holes, screwing in shelves and screwing in bolts. And only the most creative and out-of-the-box minds use a drill for other purposes. Just think - they chop firewood with a tool and replace most household appliances, spending money on more interesting needs and impressing with your imagination!
Read the article and find out how to be considered not only a homely, but also a resourceful owner. The task is simplified by the fact that the necessary supplies are probably at your fingertips, and the implementation of great ideas will not take (in some cases) even 10 minutes.
A drill is like a mixer - when the impossible is possible!
It would seem - what unites these two different devices? Drilling is usually done by men, but is within the competence of women. Let's look under the body, and everything will be resolved: inside both devices there are electric motor brushes, driven by the pressed start button. They turn the engine rotor, which transmits torque to the gearbox, which drives a chuck with a drill, like a drill, or “beaters,” like a kitchen mixer.
Converting a drill into a kitchen assistant will take you no more than 5 minutes and will be especially important when it is out of order.
An electric meat grinder made from a drill - it turns out that it’s quite possible
It would seem that a strange desire - to make something out of a drill - in some cases gives unexpected results. So, the situation can be saved when the knives of the kitchen unit have become completely dull and threaten to ruin the party with homemade cutlets. Now you will learn how to make a meat grinder from a drill: guests will praise the hostess for the cutlets, and the husband for his resourcefulness.
For a craftsman, everything is clear. You need to prepare the following items:
- an old manual meat grinder (precisely a manual one, which took so long and hard to work with!);
- electric drill;
- metal bolt with hexagonal top. The bolt must be without a head.
What’s also surprising is that many people build such equipment specifically before conservation begins. According to reviews, she copes brilliantly with tomato juice: so fast that the assistants don’t have time to wash and cut the tomatoes!
How to chop wood with a drill? Just!
It turns out that with the help construction tools you can do this too! Moreover, such chopping of firewood is no worse than the usual method, with an ax - this is what experienced householders say. What do you need to prepare for this? Apart from the drill - almost nothing, except maybe .
Having set a moderate number of revolutions (a large number of them will not speed up the process, but will lead to a lot of chips flying in all directions), we proceed to the most important thing:
- We install the log so that the cone is located directly in its center, perpendicular to the log - splitting will be quick and hassle-free.
- Carefully rotate it three times, first in one direction, then in the other.
Advice:Since you will be chopping wood at low speeds, a low-power drill, such as an inexpensive one weighing 1.3 kilograms, will suffice.
They say, homemade device ideal for apple firewood with a diameter of 10-12 cm, can also be used for firewood hard rocks tree.
A powerful fan made from a drill is a good option in hot weather
If you want to get really crazy, make a fan yourself. Here's what you'll need.
During repair and finishing works ah, each of you has come across such a highly specialized tool as a construction mixer, and you all know very well that its indispensability is difficult to overestimate. You can use a hammer drill or a drill, but in the end, when the tool fails, every experimenter will understand that it was not very good. good idea. In this article we will not talk about mixers; the topic of our article today is devoted to attachments for this indispensable tool for finishing work.
One or two nozzles?
When choosing a construction mixer, you can see that some models of this tool are equipped with two spindles, which allows you to install two rotating attachments at once. The differences between them are obvious. Double-spindle mixers are designed to work with large volumes of finishing mixture during prolonged use. The speed of operation can also be added to the advantages; such a mixer will make the mixture homogeneous faster. And, naturally, it costs more, so unless you plan to use the mixer every day, choose a mixer with a single spindle.
Methods for attaching attachments
There are four ways to attach attachments to your mixer, and they all have their own advantages and disadvantages.
- M14. The most common type of fastening. On the vast majority of attachments you will see just such a mount. In fact, this is an ordinary clamping nut that completely copes with its task. I think that soon all manufacturers will produce attachments with just such a mount.
- SDs plus. Fastening for a quick-release chuck with a diameter of ten millimeters. It can usually be found on hammer drills. It should be noted that it accepts torque well, the nozzle is quickly inserted into the mixer. But many blame it for its unreliability and the difficulty of repairing it if it breaks down.
- Hex. Regular hex shank. Such cartridges are often found on drill mixers. With small amounts of work, he will cope with the assigned tasks.
- Morse cone. The fastening is in the form of a cone, the socket in the cartridge also resembles a cone. The most reliable fastening among all and at the same time it can only be found on expensive models of mixers. For example, the DeWALT DW 152 model costs about 22 thousand rubles; you are unlikely to consider this tool for purchase.
Working part shape and dimensions
Almost all attachments for a construction mixer have the same length length equal to 600 mm. And this is understandable; with such a length, it will be convenient for a person to work with a mixer without fear for his back. If you wish, you can get all kinds of extension cords and mix mixtures in a large barrel, although it is unlikely that such a crazy idea will come to anyone’s mind. As for the diameter of the rod, this value ranges from 120 to 160 mm. But we will dwell on the working part in more detail.
- Spiral. Available in two versions: right-handed and left-handed. The first is designed to lift the mixed mixture upward and is thus suitable for heavy cement compositions, such as tile adhesive. The left-hand one lowers the mixture down, eliminating splashing. Ideal for putties and all kinds of suspensions. If the mixer is equipped with reverse, then the choice of spiral is reduced to a minimum. With one movement you can make the spiral rotate both to the left and to the right.
- Cross. Using such a nozzle, mix mixtures well where you want to prevent air from entering. During the operation of the mixer, mixing occurs strictly in the horizontal plane. When working with sealants and gypsum mixtures, this attachment is simply irreplaceable.
- Screw. Designed for stirring more liquid mixtures such as varnishes and paints. The nozzle can have two screws; when working with such a nozzle, the upper screw will push the mixture down, and the lower one, on the contrary, down. With this type of work, high-quality mixing is ensured, and there will be significantly less splashing.
There are many highly specialized attachments for various finishing mixtures, but the options presented above will be enough for you to accurately select an attachment for a construction mixer. It’s better to pay attention to the tool itself; there are much more selection criteria there.