Types of laminate locks: Click, Lock, metal, plastic, aluminum, which locks are better? Types of laminate locks: which one is better? Which laminate lock to choose?

The lock of the laminate is the most important indicator of quality; its execution largely determines general view coverings. Having a good lock will allow you to get closer to the answer to the question: “which laminate is better.”

Patented by the Quick-Step concern. The locking system is very convenient when laying laminate flooring in doorways, corners and in confined spaces. The board can be snapped using the standard method, at an angle of 25-30 degrees, or by laying the board completely on the floor, using the tamping method.

Another undeniable advantage is the ability to lay and snap boards both on the left and on the right, which is important in complex room configurations. The boards click into place very easily, with a characteristic clear click. Treatment against moisture penetration is present.

According to the manufacturer, the system allows you to repeatedly disassemble the boards without damaging them. In my fifteen years of practice, the only time I encountered a customer’s desire to remove old laminate and move it to the dacha. In any case, the laminate is deformed during use and takes on unevenness in the floor; assembly in a new place is possible, but it will no longer be of such high quality, even if the boards are numbered. The declared function is useful primarily during normal installation by a novice master, when repeated separation of the boards during the fitting process is inevitable.

After assembly, the surface is perfectly smooth without the slightest difference in height or gaps. A small disadvantage of this type of lock is the ability to diverge along the short side of the boards. Connected with a very small protrusion of the latch at the bottom, visible in the photo.

LockT-Lock and 2-Lock

It was produced and is still on sale by the Tarkett concern (it is being replaced by a new lock). Feature— a large angle of elevation of the board during installation is not required; an angle of 20-25 degrees is sufficient. T-Lock is well-known, but at the same time quite old, requiring assembly of the entire series. For one person, this is a time-consuming task, and sometimes impossible. At length ordinary room six meters, the slightest shift of any panel at the end joint, left or right, will require dismantling the entire row. Also, transverse joints are often visible,

Moreover, this feature is observed in different collections. This defect is most noticeable in collections of dark tones. During installation, you can feel the moment when the board has settled into place, although not as clearly as with Quick-Step. In our work, in the vast majority of cases, we use a laminate with a thickness of 8 millimeters for longitudinal locks, the protrusion is rather weak - often, when snapping it again, it breaks off. Moisture protection is proprietary - Tech3s.

The 2-Lock lock has a plastic insert, provides high assembly performance, plus the ability to work alone.

Lock - TC'Lock

Lock from TARKETT, which replaced the T-Lock. As sales progress, all laminate collections are transferred to the new lock, and without any increase in price. The old and new lock are not compatible; there will be a difference in height of about 0.4 mm.

The manufacturer claims a tighter connection of the boards, which significantly increases protection from moisture. The tensile test showed a result eight times higher than the specified parameters, according to the EN13329 standard, which can significantly reduce the number of chips and divergence of boards. Boxes with a new lock are marked accordingly. From personal experience, laminate with such locks assembles perfectly. Fixation - without any effort, the installation speed significantly increases. Assembly can be done by one person.

Lock -

From the manufacturer Classen. There is a plastic insert installed at the end of the board, which allows you to snap the board into place by simply pressing on the board from above. Provides a very strong mechanical connection. Work with a vacuum cleaner! The main advantage is the speed of installation; unlike standard methods, there is no need to assemble one long strip, which allows one person to work comfortably, without outside help. Very high quality factory moisture protection.

Pergo PerfectFold 3.0 locking system

A type of lock with a plastic insert. Very easy assembly process. Assembly can be done without a partner. No additional tool required. Convenience and speed of installation, has reverse side— repeated disassembly leads to breakage of the lock ridges. It must be collected immediately, without errors. One should be wary of “confident masters.” The lock is similar in appearance to the Uniclik system, which entails the temptation to knock something, knock on it, and so on. The result is inevitably damaged locks.

A characteristic, soft click will notify you of correct installation. Assembly can be done from different sides of the boards, both tongue and groove. Relevant when assembling floors without thresholds.

No complaints were identified during operation.

Lock -Proclick andJustclic

From the manufacturer Egger, good locks, Pro does not require assembling the entire row, the board is pushed down from above with a blow of a fist. High assembly speed.

Just-clic replaced it. Unlike the old one, it requires complete assembly of the row during installation. The profile of the lock is in the form of an oval, with minimal gaps following the contours of the tenon and groove. Very precise fitting of the lock elements, requires perfect cleanliness inside.

Purely subjectively, I liked the first option more, the fixation, without a pronounced click, although in both cases there are no complaints. The surface is perfectly flat.

Lock -Twinclick

Russian manufacturer Kronospan. Almost indistinguishable from T-lock manufactured by Tarkett. Allows you to assemble laminate flooring only in a standard way, in whole rows, it’s better to work together. The quality is at the level of the average price category, without differences in height and gaps. When assembling, there is no feeling of a clear fixation of the lamella. Enough difficult work in doorways, a method for adjusting to door frame, by cutting off the lock ridge, is relevant in inconspicuous places. With this type of lock it is difficult to achieve high-quality installation using the now widespread “entire apartment without thresholds” method. On well-lit surfaces, all the tricks, in the form of a cut lock, will be noticeable, which can lead to rapid wear of the protruding part.

Locks in inexpensive collections do not hold moisture at all; they must be treated with Click Guard sealant. Today, this is already nonsense, given the cost of the sealant and the labor intensity - it is better to choose an option with a waterproof lock.

Lock -Alloc

From a Norwegian manufacturer, very high quality, lock with aluminum insert, for ordinary apartments does not have any advantages, its main advantage is a strong mechanical connection that can manifest itself in large areas, where a conventional laminate requires the installation of dividing thresholds. Ease of installation and clear fixation are a plus. Price is a minus. Compared to the same Classen, given the huge selection of colors, for small apartment, the purchase can hardly be called advisable.

Conclusions:

This article describes only those locks that our locksmiths work with constantly; there are a huge number of different trade names, but the essence remains the same. Padded adhesive locks are a thing of the past. Modern locks allow you to work without glue and sealants, are quite well designed and reliable, provide high quality and strength. The only difference is the ease of installation.

Contrary to manufacturers' statements about the possibility of laying coatings without the use of additional tools, settling the boards using a block or a piece of lock from another lamella is always required! Easy sampling of gaps must be carried out. .

Taking into account the permissible micron gaps, installation work, for any type of lock, should be carried out only with the use of a vacuum cleaner. Dust removal of the groove under the next row is also mandatory!

Laminate flooring that requires laying in a row, it is advisable to lay it with a partner, alone, it is easy to break the lock, this manifests itself in the form of a gap and a characteristic rise in the transverse joint.

All well-known manufacturers in Russia produce laminate in accordance with GOST or TU, often similar to European standards. As a rule, a difference of up to 100 microns is allowed - this is the thickness of a sheet of “Snow Maiden” paper. Tactilely, such a difference will be felt when held with a fingernail, and will be visually visible, although it is considered the norm.

You should not purchase laminate without moisture protection locks, this is no longer relevant, the difference in price is negligible, and the service life differs significantly.

The craftsmen working for us note the successful design of Uniclik locks from Quick-Step, which allow laying laminate flooring in “difficult places” with minimal damage to the lock, and their experience in using coatings from the manufacturer of the same name allows them to give it an “excellent” rating. The preference is for Belgian-made laminate, with the Russian Quick-Step, with quality, however, not everything is so smooth yet. There is no such ease and clarity of assembly. The Uniclic lock is used by the Kastomonu concern, which produces laminate flooring in Elabuga. The new TC-Lock from TARKETT honestly deserves a “good” rating.

The degree of suitability of this depends on the correct choice of laminate locks. flooring for use in the target area. Panel joints are both strong and weak side this type of flooring, and therefore you need to take this nuance responsibly. When choosing a floor covering, you will inevitably have to find out what kind of locks there are on laminate flooring. Having studied them, many inexperienced people are perplexed: why is this necessary? large number, if you can use one, but the most convenient one. This raises the question: “Which laminate lock is better than the rest?” Let's figure it out.

Some types of laminate locks have been patented by individual manufacturing companies. Among all the variety, we can highlight the most popular locking connections, as well as several outdated ones. There are also modern systems connections, before use of which special molding of the panels is performed. If you plan to use the laminate with a lock for a long time, it would be reasonable to provide for the possibility of dismantling.

The lock determines the quality of the floor covering. It is this component that determines the degree of surface evenness, the gap between the lamellas, the absence of squeaking and minimizing the likelihood of seams coming apart over time. In addition, the durability of the entire structure depends on the quality of manufacturing of the locking connections and the laminate itself and adherence to assembly technology. In order to properly lay the coating and avoid problems in the future, you need to have an understanding of the types of lamella coupling.

Types of laminate locks

The classification of castles begins with their division into main subtypes. Many people who are just planning to install this coating do not know what kind of locking systems there are for laminate flooring, and therefore manufacturing companies like to invent their own locking schemes, and then present them as the most reliable on the market. All used laminate locks can be divided into two large groups: lock and click.

The most popular laminate locks

These two types of locks differ in the way the panels are joined.

Lock Lock

Laminate locking systems of the lock type are renowned for their economical option and are used for a long time. The production of these connections is carried out by milling: the connecting element looks like a tenon equipped with a ridge that fits into a groove on the other side of the panel.

Today, lock is an outdated laminate lock, used only by companies that have old production lines. It is difficult to disassemble it without damaging the protruding edges of the lock components, which, among other things, wear out over time from constant loads and friction. If you do not close the gaps with a sealing compound (glue or mastic) during installation, even a small amount of water can ruin the floor.

Before clicking the laminate with the lock lock, you need to make sure that the surface underneath is of good quality. Installation on an uneven floor may cause increased gaps between panels. Assembly is carried out by hammering the tenon into the groove using a wooden hammer until the gap between the panels disappears. It is possible to use a regular metal hammer, but then you will need wooden block or a piece of hard rubber.

Experienced specialists who have already laminated many apartments talk about the need for constant monitoring of joints during installation and the overall labor intensity of assembling these locking systems. Despite their apparent simplicity and reliability, lock locks have one main drawback: they are non-removable and wear out at the location of the locking ridge, which is why gaps appear between the panels. This indicates that these locking connections are unsuitable for long-term use.

Click lock

Most modern laminate collections have click locks, which are considered more modern and do not have the disadvantages of lock locks. They are made in the same way, but the closing tenon has the shape of a flat hook, and the grooves have areas for its insertion. This design allows you to disassemble the floor up to 3-4 times and securely holds the panels, preventing the appearance of cracks even with heavy loads on the locking mechanism.

Click-click laminate is practical and versatile, as it allows for repeated disassembly. It is also called “just click”. At its core, it is a modernized version of the lock-lock. Since the grooves follow the shape of the fastening hooks, laminate with a click lock can be assembled even by a non-professional - you just need to follow the assembly technology to avoid damage and separation of the panels.

Before assembling laminate flooring with a click lock, you need to understand the mechanics of the action. When installing, the panel is inserted into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees, after which the panel should be moved to a horizontal position using rocking movements. When the locking elements are engaged, a click is heard, which is how this locking mechanism got its name.

In addition to those described above, there are other types of laminate locks on the market:

uniclic;
aluminum locks;
megaloc;
t-lock.

UniClic lock

The uniclic laminate lock differs from others in its special tongue and groove profiles. It can be assembled either by tapping or by simply snapping it at an angle. Thanks to the lower wedge-shaped edge of the groove, the load is distributed evenly throughout the entire structure. All components of the lock are made of the same material as the panels. This approach to manufacturing avoids deformation of the panels during installation.

There are differing opinions on how to properly engage uniclic locks. Practice shows that installation at an angle is optimal. By joining the panels in this way, you can do without special tools, and also complete the installation faster. It is necessary to attach the short sides of the lamella first, and only then the long ones. To lay the last row, as well as to assemble in hard to reach place, you need to have a hammer and a wooden pad.

This lock was invented and patented by the manufacturer Quick Step. Other manufacturers may have a different name for a similar type of lock. For example, TwinClick, ProLock or SmartLock. However general principle installation and fixation of panels remained the same.

Laminate, equipped metal locks, is rightfully the most reliable. The clutch mechanism can withstand loads of up to 1200 kilograms per square meter. Laminate flooring with aluminum interlocks can be installed without thresholds and can be disassembled up to 5 times without any damage or wear to the ridges in the grooves and tenons. Also, laminate with aluminum locks does not deform over time and has the smallest gaps between panels. An additional aluminum plate increases the strength of the connection and increases protection against moisture penetration under the coating. The Norwegian manufacturer Alloc uses such a lock in its products, giving a lifetime guarantee correct installation laminate

Lock 5g

The design of this coupling mechanism includes an iron or plastic insert - a tongue. This element ensures the density of connections in the 5g laminate and the reliability of fixing the panels to each other. Like many other locking systems, the 5g lock is latched by inserting a panel vertically. When fixed, the insert is removed, after which a click is heard, notifying that the tongue has occupied right place and the panel is fixed. This lock allows you to simultaneously connect panels along the long and short sides by simply pressing from above.

This type of connection has another name - 2-Lock, which is found by the manufacturer Tarkett.

MegaLoc Lock

This system is developed by Classen based on the 5g lock. Reliability of fixation is achieved through the use of a special insert at the end of the laminate. When connected, the insert bends and then snaps into place with a characteristic click, securing the panel. The megaloc laminate lock requires assembly from the front side. Upon completion of assembly, the second strip is joined to the first strip with an offset. If we compare the assembly time with other types of locks, then megaloc is installed as quickly as possible. You can dismantle and reinstall the covering with these locks up to 4 times.

A distinctive feature is the best tightness of the finished coating. Another advantage of this type of locks is that there is no need to use any tools when installing.

T-Lock

Created by Tarkett based on positive aspects lock systems lock and click. Today this type of connection can be found in the range of dozens of companies. The T-lock lock can be disassembled four times without damaging components. The panels are connected at a very small angle and guarantee strong contact without distortion of the lamellas or excessively large gaps. The disadvantage of the lock is that the joints are quite visible, especially on dark colors. Subsequently, the design of the castle was improved: bottom part The lock became more concave, and at the junction the side with the decorative layer became more massive. This is how the TC-Lock was born.

Which castle is better?

A good locking system is the key to a long service life of a laminate floor. When choosing, you should know in advance the conditions in which it will be used. There are many opinions, but which locks are better is always shown only by practice, because each type of connection has its own advantages that others do not have. Recently, laminates with wax-impregnated locking systems, developed by Witex, have been found.

The presence of wax in the locking mechanism increases protection against moisture penetration under the coating several times. In addition, wax-impregnated laminate locks make the coating more aesthetically pleasing due to the visual solidity of the floor. Also, the wax coating simplifies the assembly process and increases the resistance of the locking mechanism to external loads, increasing its durability.

Comparing lock and click locks, one can assert the technological superiority of the latter. The duration of their service depends on many factors, so the most best laminate- is the one that has minimum thickness seams and high-strength connection systems. Which manufacturer is best to choose is everyone’s business, but experts are confident in the undisputed leadership of German companies.

Sometimes it happens that laminate floor The lock does not latch or opens spontaneously. In this case, it is necessary first of all to determine which of the factors does not correspond to the recommendations for the installation and operation of floors. This will allow you to quickly determine what caused the panels to diverge and understand what should be done if the lock on the laminate opens.

Conclusions

Choosing locks for a laminate floor is a responsible matter that needs to be given due attention. If you select the wrong locking systems, you can only end up disappointed in your decision to change the appearance of your home. To make the right choice, you need to clearly understand whether the laminate will lie for a long time or whether it will need to be dismantled, what loads it will experience and under what conditions it will be used.

Modern manufacturers should be given their due; they do not leave customers to their fate, indicating on the laminate pack which locks are used and how the panels should be fastened together.

Laminate floors on at the moment are one of the most popular types of flooring not only in our country, but throughout the world. Laminate manufacturing factories are located in many countries around the world, so in stores you can find a model suitable for a specific room and design without much effort.

Choosing a laminate is not difficult. Certain problems arise during its installation. It cannot be said that laying laminate flooring equipped with a locking system is extremely difficult, but to do this you need to know some of the nuances and features of the work.

It is worth noting that it is better not to lay laminate without locks, which needs to be glued to a rough base using special adhesives, but to invite craftsmen to do this work. Adhesive models of laminated floors are gradually becoming a thing of the past, so modern market they are rare anymore.

Before laying laminate flooring, it is necessary to properly prepare the base. Features of preparing the rough surface will depend on what material it is made of:

Wooden floor (boards). The first step is to make sure that the surface is smooth and does not have serious deviations. An acceptable indicator of deviation from ideal floor evenness is considered to be no more than 2.5-3.5 mm per 2 sq.m. surfaces. If there are serious differences in height, it is necessary to level the base. To do this, you can use a unit for sanding a wooden floor (you don’t have to buy it, but rent it for the day from companies that rent construction equipment), or use chipboard sheets that are tightly attached to the base from wood using self-tapping screws and perfectly prepare the surface for installing laminate (many experts note that laying laminate on chipboard is the most best option ohm).If the floor is frankly old, it is strongly recommended to replace broken and unreliable-looking boards with new ones. This is due to the fact that the service life of laminate flooring is more than 10-15 years in a residential area (even for class 31 models), so in the future, in order to repair the subfloor, you will need to disassemble the floor covering.

Concrete floor. In the case of a concrete floor, the first step is to level the surface. If concrete screed was filled not so long ago, then most likely there will be no unevenness, but in old houses and apartments concrete base it is almost always necessary to level. The simplest leveling option in this case is the use of special self-leveling compounds (the so-called “self-leveling screed”), which are presented in a variety of ways in hardware stores. Other methods of leveling, in principle, need not be considered (except perhaps making a screed traditional way, if there is excess cement).

Additional work

Before carrying out any work, it is recommended to keep the purchased laminate panels that are planned to be installed in the room in which the installation will take place. This is necessary so that the panels acclimatize, “get used” to the room, and gain the necessary humidity.
After all preparation and leveling of the base have been completed, it would be correct to additionally lay a waterproofing layer that will protect the laminate from moisture penetration from the subfloor. For this you can use regular plastic film. The film should be laid perpendicular to the planned direction of installation of the laminate panels. The film is laid with an overlap of approximately 15-20 cm.
In addition, you need to decide in advance on the direction of installation of the laminate. In situations where the windows in the room are located on only one wall, the laminate should be installed in the direction of the light. When laying the laminate perpendicularly, it turns out that when entering the room, the joints between the boards will be very clearly visible, which will worsen appearance floor covering.
During the installation of a laminated floor, you must not allow any debris to remain under the laid panels - all waste and broken parts of the laminate must be promptly removed, preventing them from penetrating under the installed floor. If something remains under the laminate, it can lead to some floor defects in the future.

Modern laminate flooring is equipped with a locking system, and locks can be of only two types (although there are many varieties): Lock and Click. Click type locks are more technologically advanced and are usually called double locks. The main advantage of such a locking system is the high level of reliability of connecting the panels to each other, as well as the minimal likelihood of damage to the laminate boards during the installation process. The Lock system is considered easier to install. Besides, Laminate models with Lock locks are usually cheaper. At the same time, the level of reliability of connecting the boards will be slightly less, in contrast to the cases with Click locks.

Laying laminate flooring with Click locks

Installing laminate flooring with the Click system does not cause any great difficulties. The first step is to measure the dimensions of the room with a tape measure to determine the width of the boards against the wall. The laminate installation diagram stipulates that the panels that will be located near the walls should be approximately the same width, although small differences in width are allowed.

Installation of laminated boards should begin from the far left corner of the room. It will be correct to focus on the light emanating from the window, as mentioned above. Before starting work, you need to lay small wedges no more than 1 cm thick along each of the 4 walls (you can buy them in a store or make them yourself). The presence of these wedges will provide a technological gap, which is necessarily required during the operation of the laminate. The wedges are removed immediately after all installation work will be completed.

The initial panel is installed in the far corner of the room. Next, you need to insert a second one into the end part of the installed laminated panel. Installation should be carried out at an angle of approximately 30 degrees, which will allow the boards to snap together (there will be a characteristic “click”). He continues in exactly the same way until we reach the opposite wall.

The following rows must be assembled in a checkerboard pattern. In other words, the formed joint between the panels of the top row must be shifted by approximately half the length of the panel of the next row. Installing laminated boards in this way will ensure even distribution of the load. With direct installation, the load will be concentrated in individual areas of the floor.

The laminate of the 2nd row does not need to be attached to the boards of the first row. First, the second row is assembled separately, after which it needs to be attached to the previous one. This is difficult to do alone, so you will need the help of a partner. To connect the rows to each other, you need to join them together at the same angle as the slats. The assembly of subsequent rows is carried out according to the same scheme - we form a finished row and join it to the previous one. With Click locks, you cannot use a mallet or block to fit the slats.

Of course, you can choose other laying methods - for example, diagonally or herringbone. When choosing these installation methods, the work will be somewhat more complicated. In addition, the consumption of laminate will increase (by about 10-15%). Sawn panels and scraps can be used at the start and end of a row, reducing waste.

Laying laminate flooring with Lock locks

The planks equipped with the Lock locking system do not cause any difficulties during installation. Before starting work, you need to prepare a block, mallet or rubberized hammer. The connection of laminated panels of this type is carried out using the familiar tongue-and-groove system. In other words, the tenon of one board must fit into the groove of the second, which will ensure the connection of the lamellas.

Before starting installation, you also need to estimate the width of the lamellas for the last row. In cases where the width turns out to be too small and visually unattractive, it is recommended to cut the lamellas in both the initial and last rows, making them approximately the same in width. It is also necessary to install wedges to ensure technological clearance.

The boards are also laid from the far left corner of the room. We take the first laminated board, place it in the corner of the room, attach the next board to the end part, and insert it into the groove. There will be no click here, but to ensure that the boards are connected to each other as tightly as possible, it is necessary to hammer the boards with a little force after they are inserted into each other. The row is assembled according to the same scheme.

Here it is also necessary to ensure chess order installation of panels, ensuring a distance between the joints of laminated boards of at least 35-40 cm to distribute the load.

Laying the second row is carried out as follows: take a board, bring it to the first row, insert it into the panel, and tap it with a hammer. When connecting the second board of the second row to the first row, you should step back slightly from the first board of the second row (about 20-30 mm). First, we connect it to the boards of the first row, and then lightly tap it with a hammer to the first board of the second row.

How to make sure that the floor is reliable, beautiful, easy to install and at the same time inexpensive? These seemingly incompatible qualities are combined in a laminate. That's why this flooring is being used more and more often. However, in order for the floor to serve for a long time, you simply need to know the intricacies of the technology. For example, before laying laminate flooring, you need to check how level the base is. The maximum permissible deviation is no more than 1-2 mm per meter of surface. Only under this condition will it lie tightly and will not sag or creak. If the differences are greater, the lock may even break or the board may crack.

If the base has irregularities that exceed the permissible dimensions, it must be leveled. For cement floors everything is simple - a leveling screed is poured. Laying the laminate begins after the solution has gained at least 50% strength.

If an old wooden floor serves as the base, it must be removed according to technology, then a full-fledged cement floor must be made, with all the necessary layers (backfill, hydro- and thermal insulation, reinforcing belt and screed). You can install a heating system into this floor, and then lay the flooring on the warm floor. Only in this case it is necessary to use special types of laminate that can withstand heat well. The cost of such a floor is high, and its installation requires a lot of time. That's why they don't always do this. If the joists and boards are not damaged, you can level the wooden floor with plywood, and then lay the laminate on it.

When leveling a wooden floor, all strongly protruding fragments are trimmed off with a plane or using a scraper, and the cracks are sealed with putty. Sheets of plywood are laid on the prepared old wooden floor (it is used more often, although any sheet material with a flat surface). They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the floor: along the perimeter every 15 cm, in the middle in a checkerboard pattern.

The joints of the sheets are shifted - they should not match (look at the photo below). This way the load is transferred more evenly. One more thing - leave some gaps between the sheets - they should not be fitted closely to each other. Wood changes dimensions depending on humidity and temperature. And these gaps will provide the necessary freedom so that there are no “humps” or distortions.

Laying plywood on a wooden floor under laminate is a common way to prepare the base during renovations. If the wood has not been damaged, and the plywood is laid evenly, does not “play” or sag, such a base will serve for years

Underlay for laminate

The substrate is first laid on a flat and clean base. It hides those 1-2 mm irregularities that are acceptable and makes the floor less “noisy”. It also serves for shock absorption and better load redistribution.

There are several types of substrate:

Cork. Made from cork chips. Has good thermal insulation properties, absorbs sounds. Disadvantages: afraid of moisture and does not like heat. Therefore, its scope of application is rooms without floor heating, with normal importance and minimal risk of “flood”. That is - living rooms. Cork underlay for laminate flooring is rarely used: expensive. If they put it, it’s more under parquet board- to preserve the floor covering.
Cork is the best, but also the most expensive type of substrate. Foil is a little cheaper, and its plus is that it is suitable for heated floors
Bitumen-cork on cellulose based. Small fragments of cork are sprinkled on a layer of cellulose impregnated with bitumen. This underlay is slightly cheaper than cork, but its main advantage is that it can be used over a heated floor system.
Made from foamed polyethylene. Well tolerated high humidity, conducts heat poorly, is chemically neutral, resistant to bacteria, easy to use (available in rolls), and has a low price. Disadvantages: sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, quickly loses its shape, has a short service life, and does not dampen sounds well. That’s why this substrate is used under cheap laminate: their service life is comparable.
Made from polystyrene foam. It has a fairly high density, which is why it smoothes out unevenness, holds its shape well, has good heat-insulating properties, and muffles sounds. Disadvantage: cannot be used for laying laminitis on a heated floor. The price is between cork and polyethylene, it is the most acceptable and is used most often. It is often produced in the form of slabs, sometimes in rolls.
Polyurethane on foil. This type of underlay can also be used for laying under laminate flooring on a heated floor. Has the best characteristics of all the above, as well as the most best prices. But if you are going to install an expensive laminate, then this is a justifiable expense: the service life of this type of floor covering largely depends on the quality of the substrate.
Foamed polystyrene - average quality and price

How to lay the underlay

The backing for the laminate is rolled out (laid out) along the wall from which installation will begin. In length it should cover the entire floor from wall to wall. The joint lines are aligned tightly; for convenience, they are taped with tape. Sometimes the panels are fixed with staples from a construction stapler. It's faster, but it's not a good idea to use staples - they can rub against the boards and make an unpleasant sound. The next layer is spread as needed - there is no need to cover the entire floor at once: it is better not to walk on the substrate.

Laying schemes

In which direction should I lay the laminate with my own hands? There are no strict rules, but there are recommendations. To make the joints along the boards less visible, the direction of the light should go along the board. It turns out beautifully if you lay the coating at an angle. But this method is more complicated and produces more waste. You can also lay it across the light - this is also practiced, and does not threaten anything other than more visible seams.

Laying laminate relative to the window: arrangement of elements

The basic rule that must be followed when laying laminate flooring is the offset of the seams. The minimum transverse seam should be at a distance of 40 cm from the other. This way the strength of the floor covering will be greater: the boards will not come apart under load.

The minimum distance between seams in adjacent rows is 40 cm

The laying scheme of the laminate should be developed taking into account this rule. The easiest one to do on your own is shifting by half the board. Then each odd row begins with a whole, and each even row begins with a half (or vice versa).

If the length of one element exceeds 1.2 m, then the second row can be shifted by 1/3, the third by 2/3 of the length (as in the photo above). It turns out to be a kind of “ladder”. In some types of laminate (expensive), the minimum offset of the rows is much less - maybe 15 cm. This is indicated on the packaging or in the accompanying instructions.

You can lay the laminate with a “ladder”, but you need to observe the minimum permissible seam displacement. On the right is a laying diagram for a long board length and small displacement

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How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The installation technology is the same: there are only some features when connecting elements depending on the locks. The procedure will be as follows:

If the geometry of the room is correct, there are no difficulties. If there are distortions, you will have to trim. Questions may arise when finishing the threshold: the board near the jambs is not cut straight, but along an arc, maintaining a gap of 10-15 mm. Why in an arc? So under door casing There will be no hole of any shape.

Methods for laying laminate flooring: two locks - two methods (video instructions)

The technology for laying laminate depends on which of the locks is on your flooring. They are made in two types - “click” and “lock”. You won’t get confused, because the system is written on the packaging of each pack, and many have pictograms explaining the principle of installation.

Method without a hammer - click lock

When using click locks, it is more convenient to assemble the boards one by one. The system is named so because of the characteristic click that is heard when the tenon enters the groove. With this system, the side locks are connected first, then the longitudinal ones. It happens like this:

Watch the video to see how to lay laminate flooring with a click lock.

How to lay with a Lock lock

Here the lock must be inserted from the side and the assembly method is different. You will need a piece of laminate with a tenon and a light hammer (rubber mallet). The boards are laid out on the floor and adjusted so that they lie exactly one relative to the other. Move it so that the tenon is close to the groove, insert a piece of laminate on the other side and tap it with a hammer to achieve a connection.

How to lay laminate flooring with the “lock” system

The method is also simple, but requires caution: you can hit the lock too hard with a hammer and break the lock. Then you will have to use another element.

With this method, it is more convenient to lay the laminate by first assembling individual rows and then connecting them. This is shown schematically in the photo below.

It’s more convenient to lay laminate flooring with your own hands using the “lock” system

For more information about this method, watch the video. There is no audio, but everything is clear.

The methods described above for laying laminate flooring can be made almost airtight; in any case, the amount of water that can get into the joint space can be greatly reduced. For this, special glue is used. They coat the tenons of the boards being laid with it. The composition retains its elasticity for 10 minutes, so glue is applied immediately before installation.

The disadvantage of this technology is that the coating becomes almost monolithic. If you need to replace one or more boards, this will not be possible.

How to cut laminate evenly

You can cut laminate boards:

jigsaw (most convenient);
hacksaw;
hand-held circular saw.

To prevent burrs from forming on the front surface when cutting, it should lie “face” up. To ensure that the cut is even, guides are used - rulers (bars) made of metal or wood. When using a hacksaw, the ruler should not allow you to “climb” onto the desired half.

When cutting crosswise, it is more convenient to use squares. It is pressed against the long side, the second serves as a guide.

When choosing a laminate flooring, rarely does anyone understand that the types of laminate locks determine its quality. They are responsible for the gap between the panels, the absence or presence of squeaks, the divergence of seams, and the evenness of the surface. Therefore, when purchasing a laminate, you should carefully study not only its characteristics, but also the installation method and the type of adhesion. We will consider the features of installation and fastening systems in more detail.

Almost all panel interlocking options are based on the tongue-and-groove system. The difference is the profiling of the lock system.

There are several main types:

Lock Lock. The simplest option. The cross-section of the spike does not have a simple straight profile, but a complex figure. The groove under it has a complex shape. The panels are laid by horizontally pressing one into the other. The moment of fixation is a click. For high-quality installation, tamping of the outer blade is required. A wooden hammer is used. You can use a regular one, but you will need a wooden block or special finishing. Laminate flooring with this type of lock is difficult to dismantle without destruction. Over time, under mechanical load, the connection wears out and the panels separate. Therefore, in addition, the locks are treated with sealant or glue. The surface under the laminate requires high quality. Otherwise, during operation, a situation may arise where the blades diverge.
Click lock. Modernized previous look. The tenon has a hook-shaped bend at the upper end, and a protrusion at the bottom, closer to the panel. The groove follows the shape of the protrusions. Fixation occurs when one panel is inserted into another at an angle. A rocking motion is used to lower it to a horizontal position. At this moment a characteristic click is heard. The lock worked. The connection is strong due to additional fixing protrusions. Coverings can be dismantled and assembled up to 4 times.
T-LOCK locks. The option was developed by Tarkett. It combines two types of locking connections, which allows you to achieve maximum adhesion strength of the panels. When laying, technology typical of Click systems is used. Simplicity and reliability have made this type very popular among professionals. The floor covering can be removed up to several times without damaging the locks.
5G. These types of locking systems have a plastic or metal insert in the middle that resembles a “tongue.” Thanks to it, a tight connection of the canvases is ensured. The installation method is not complicated. The panel is inserted into the previous one in a horizontal position. When pressed, the insert is removed; when installed in the desired position, a click is heard indicating that the “tongue” is in place and the position is fixed. Installation and dismantling will not be difficult even for a beginner.
Megalock lock. Advanced fixation system based on 5G. The locks on the laminate begin to be connected at the end side. Reliability of adhesion is ensured by the end insert. And to the assembled length of the first strip, the second row is added in width with an offset. Assembly time is minimal compared to other types. Maximum strength and reliability. Installation and dismantling up to 4 times is allowed. Another advantage is increased protection against moisture.
ClickXpress lock. It is distinguished by the rounded lower part of the tenon and, accordingly, the groove. Does not have plastic inserts. The work is carried out according to the Click system principle, at an angle. Can be dismantled and installed up to four times.
Uniclick lock. The tenon and groove have a special profile that ensures strong adhesion of the planks. Installation can be done at an angle or by tapping. Dismantling is carried out up to 4 times.
Aluminum locks. The most reliable connections. Withstands separation resistance up to 1200 kg/sq.m. m. Laying without a threshold is possible. This laminate has two types of lock - tongue and groove, aluminum at the bottom. Distinctive feature– the joints between the canvases are practically invisible. Installation and dismantling is allowed up to 5 times.

Laying laminate flooring without locks is becoming less and less popular due to the use of additional chemicals for fixation and the speed of work. Modern types of locks make it possible to increase the productivity and quality of the resulting surfaces several times.

Useful video: Review of laminate locks

All laminate floor locks are conventionally divided into two groups based on the operating principle of Lock and Click. The first group is relatively inexpensive, providing quite reliable grip. The second belongs to the expensive segment, but the grip and quality of the resulting surface will be high level. Each type of connection has pros and cons. For some, price is important, and for others, high quality and reliability.

If we compare which is better, Lock or Click, from the point of view of dismantling and installation, then the first system is more susceptible to destruction of fastening profiles.

Preparation for installation

Any floor covering requires surface preparation. The best option, if a layer is applied to the rough screed. Such a foundation will ensure the proper level of quality. After the preparatory layer has completely hardened, it is recommended to lay waterproofing. To a greater extent, this applies to the first floors of apartment complexes and private housing.

Cork . The most expensive option, but environmentally friendly, hides minor unevenness of the rough foundation, and does not compress much under load. Disadvantages include high cost; destruction in a humid environment, with a “warm floor” system.
Polyethylene foam. Cheap option, has low thermal conductivity, is resistant to moisture and the appearance of bacteria. Short-lived, pressed.
Expanded polystyrene. A relatively inexpensive option, it is used when installing a “warm floor” system and provides additional sound insulation. Over time it gets pressed.

Depending on the budget, the best option is selected. The substrate is covered without overlapping each other. Fixing to the floor and gluing the seams is done with masking tape.

Important points before installation

Correct installation will be ensured if several nuances are taken into account:

When purchasing, check with the seller whether additional protective impregnation of the laminate locks is required or not. In the second case, you should first purchase wax. Processing is carried out before installation begins.
The laminate must lie for at least 2 days in the room in which it is planned to be installed. This will allow the material to absorb the microclimate of the room, gain temperature regime. This will ensure minimal shrinkage in the future. A greater effect can be achieved by removing factory packaging from the material.
Installation is carried out from window to door. The end sides are directed towards the openings, and the long side towards the blank walls. This will reduce the visibility of seams between the canvases.
For Lock systems, consider purchasing a special metal pad. It will allow you to easily install floor coverings even against walls.
Long rows are mounted offset. The first one starts with a long floorboard, the second - with a short one. This will ensure high-quality adhesion of the planks in different directions.
Technical gaps near the walls should be from 5 to 10 mm. There are special clamps. At the time of installation, mechanical action is applied to the floor covering. As a result, it may move close to the wall if they are not secured.
Before work, you need to prepare a cutting tool - a wood saw or jigsaw. For proper cutting quality, the tool must have minimal teeth.

Having considered all the points, you can safely begin installing the panels.

Before work, read the installation instructions. Unpack the material and start laying it yourself.

Lock systems are laid with tamping along both the end and longitudinal parts. The uniformity of the seams between the canvases should be observed. Another feature is working with the last row. Often you have to trim the width of the panels. A measurement is made taking into account the technical gap between the wall and floor finishing, marked, cut off. The canvas is carefully inserted at a slight angle. Using a metal filler, the seam is compacted to the required size.

Laminate with click lock. Such systems do not require additional tools. The canvases are inserted into each other at an angle of 40–45°, and with a slight oscillatory movement they are moved to a horizontal position. A click should sound.

Useful video: Laying laminate flooring with Click locks

5G systems, Megalock are distinguished by the most simple installation. The tongue and groove is inserted in a horizontal position without finishing.

Laminate manufacturers offer a wide range of locking systems, which best determine the budget possibilities and reliability of the resulting floor covering. If the locks come apart after a short period of use, this indicates several reasons: poor-quality installation or laminate lock (don’t go after a low price), poorly prepared base for the finishing coating.

Conclusion

In such cases, it is necessary to find out the source of trouble and eliminate it. Sometimes this requires disassembling and re-laying panels. But if the cause is not eliminated in a timely manner, the locking connections may completely fail, and then the purchase of new material will be required.