The disadvantages of studded tires are a fact. And when traveling on icy sections of the road for an hour, you can’t do without studded tires (in order to minimize the risk and prevent all sorts of difficulties). As evidenced practical application, the studded version of tires allows you to gain from two to five seconds when braking to a complete stop in relation to summer (non-studded) tires. Even a split second will be decisive.
Winter studded tires allow you to increase handling, minimize the chances of skidding in corners, and stabilize the car on difficult sections of the road. True, you will encounter a problem - such tires have metal factory inserts, which automatically affects the cost increase by up to 10%. As alternative option the process of tire studding is being considered with my own hands, which significantly structures costs and adds confidence on the road. To understand the reliability of this option, it is worth taking care of the entire process as a whole. Let's get to it.
Is it possible to stud tires yourself?
Shipovka is realized through independent efforts, in own garage without expending financial and physical effort.
To work, you will need a standard set of tools for studding tires, and you can’t do without a set of winter tires:
- Spikes;
- Pliers;
- Pneumatic pistol.
At the moment, literally every car shop is ready to offer assistance in finding tires with ready-made holes into which purchased studs can be inserted independently. This will make the studding process easier.
2 types of studs: single- and double-flange. The first version of studs is intended for standard driving on city roads, the second version of studs is for high-speed driving.
Don’t forget that winter tires can be studded due to the presence of rubber density to hold the metal frame.
It is advisable to choose rubber with a special hole already in the basic configuration, so that you can install studs without difficulty - this option is more reliable and durable. Carefully check that the nests go evenly, forming a pattern (herringbone, zigzag, stripes). Otherwise, there is a high probability that makeshift preparation will reduce safety and reliability. A note would be to apply studs on new tires on your own - on worn tires the metal inserts will not be able to hold them in the broken seating recesses.
It is recommended to carry out studding with regular tires, without indentations - however, the product may be damaged to the point of being completely unusable. The holes for the tenons are created using high-tech equipment. At home, drills with flexible rotation control are suitable. At further work use equipment depending on needs and priorities.
Choosing tires and studs for studding tires
Despite the insignificance of choice, today they purchase from dozens of other types of studs installed on winter tires. At the same time, it is very important to approach the acquisition seriously. Considering our regional weather conditions, and our quality of roads, it is best to choose an option made from iron-containing alloys. Aluminum spikes will not deform after the first couple of rides on a village road with potholes and bumps. In addition, the studs should be selected in accordance with the shape of the carbide tip, which protrudes outward from the rubber. In this case, traditional round ones are quite cheap, so they are called effective only with a stretch.
If we take into account the more severe climate of the northern European regions, then it is worth talking about 4-sided and multi-sided studs, which allow you to have confidence in reliability even if you cross an icy road.
Recently, there has been an increase in interest in diamond varieties of studs. Their cost cannot be said to be more than 10% of the usual ones. It's all about the complex shape of the tip, which is visually similar to the crystal structure.
In this purchasing situation, think about the choice of studs. 50% of motorists ask questions about the number of flanges. The sample agrees with this parameter: in the case of constant driving, it is worth paying attention to 2-flange models due to the fact that they are more resistant to maneuvering and driving at high speed. The situation is the opposite with single-seam models: they are cheaper and slow down the wear of the seat recess, however, in the case of active driving, the situation is unprofitable. The selection of studs also occurs according to the dimensions - take into account the max. protrusion size up to 1.3mm. Because of this, it is best to buy your studs from the same place as your tires.
Do-it-yourself studding process
In order to cope with the process on your own, you must follow a clear algorithm of actions, without which all attempts may be in vain.
- First of all, work begins with fixing the tire. In this case, you need to resort to the help of improvised means (tools). Here it is worth paying special attention to the fact that the quality of your work will directly depend on the level of fixation and fastening of the splint.
- The next step is to wet the spikes with soapy water. Yes, at first glance this may seem crazy, but this will allow the studs to easily pass through all the holes in the tire. Beforehand, we place the spikes in a pneumatic gun and point them at the previously made holes on the tires. The pneumatic gun should be held parallel to the plane, and pressure should be applied until the spikes are completely driven into the tire.
- Spikes whose installation did not go smoothly (distortions, unevenness, rolls) will need to be removed. In the case of protrusions of inserted tenons, you will need to resort to a hammer and an aluminum sheet, with which you will try to drive it inside.
- Having dealt with the stud, you should not carry out direct testing right away. You should wait a little while the thorns “grow together”. This will take at least a month. When driving, the driving speed on new studded tires does not exceed 60 km/h. After rolling away 200-300 km, gradually increasing the speed to 85 km/h, not forgetting the maximum permissible level.
- It is worth remembering the following point. When the studded tires are ready, look closely at the protrusions of the tips. In case of unevenness, remove with pliers or drive in non-standard (1.3 mm) spikes inside. A hammer and a metal plate can do just that.
Any motorist knows that before the onset of frost, you should change the tires on your vehicle. This is due both to the safety of movement and to the legislation of the Russian Federation, according to which, before the end of autumn, motorists must “change their shoes.” Nowadays, most drivers prefer to equip tires with studs themselves, and also re-stud the tires. This one has homemade method there are several advantages. Firstly, tire manufacturers use low-quality materials in order to reduce costs, as a result of which the studs quickly break or even fly out. Secondly, with self-styling, you can equip tires based on the purely individual operating conditions of the car. Thirdly, re-studding winter tires allows you to extend the life of the tires.
However, it is worth considering that if you want to install studs on newly purchased tires equipped with special holes for studs, then you will not be able to save on such an operation, since you will have to spend approximately the same amount as on new tires with factory studs. Therefore, in our article we will consider the option of “reanimating” old tires, equipped or not equipped with studs. To do this, first of all you will need to carry out preparatory work.
Preparing for tire studding
Before treating tires, you need to purchase rubber. Tires suitable for studding must:
- Correspond to the operating season, that is, you need to choose winter tires;
- Be made of hard material, since hard rubber holds the studs better;
- Be with a “non-worn out” tread pattern, so it’s better if these are new tires.
Only friction tire models or tires with special holes for studs meet these requirements. Such models cost an order of magnitude higher, but if you stud yourself, you will be confident in the quality of the “claws” and that the technology for their installation was fully followed. Thus, the service life of retreaded tires can be no less than that of new ones.
In addition, you will need a special air gun for studding winter tires and a set of studs, which we will talk about in more detail.
What are the best spikes to choose?
Many people believe that spikes are the same type of products that do not differ from each other. Actually this is not true. Today there are many varieties of thorns and they may differ in the following characteristics.
- The body material of the “claws” can be made of aluminum alloys (marked AD), steel (SD) or plastic (MD);
- The shape of the products can be classic round, oval (OD), tetrahedral, diamond (DD) and so on. In fact, there are many more forms, these are just the main ones, the most popular;
- Spikes can be single-flange or double-flange. The latter are characterized by increased reliability, but it makes sense to install them only if you like to drive quickly along highways at high speeds;
- The type of core can be tubular, rod or other type. To put it simply, a single-flange tenon can be either round or oval, while a double-flange tenon has the shape of a “glass.”
There are no universal models of studs, so when choosing products it is important to understand three important parameters: what speed you drive, what your driving style is and what characteristics the selected tires have (tread, hardness, etc.).
Important! The stud should not protrude outward from the tire by more than 1.3 mm. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase spikes of the appropriate length.
It is worth noting the number of spikes that can be installed. In fact, there are no restrictions on the territory of the Russian Federation, but most motorists prefer to adhere to European standards, according to which the following restrictions exist:
- It is recommended to install no more than 90 pieces on 13-inch wheels;
- 14-15 inches - 110 pieces;
- 16-inch - 150 pieces.
In addition, remember 2 important rules:
- Studring must be done before the onset of the winter season. New studs need to sit for some time (preferably 2-3 months), in this case they will last longer and will stay firmly in the tire;
- Studded tires need to be broken in. To do this, the first 500 km must be driven at low speed without strong jerks or braking.
Once the equipment for studding winter tires has been prepared, you can proceed directly to the installation process itself.
Installation of spikes
Before installing the studs, you must first fix the tire. It must remain stationary, otherwise the work may go down the drain. Next, moisten the surface of the tire with soap suds to make the stud fit into the hole of the tire more easily.
After this, you need to take an air gun with spikes poured into it, and fix it so that the paws are in the hole for the spike and stretch it a little. The gun itself should be positioned relative to the hole at this time. Make sure there are no distortions. After the tenon has been installed, it is necessary to check how securely it “sits.” If it is installed in a skewed state, then it is better to get rid of such defects, since there will be no benefit from it in any case.
Advice! If the tenon protrudes too much, just drive it a little deeper. To do this, use a hammer and a steel sheet.
If for one reason or another you installed the “claw” incorrectly, you can easily pull it out before the previously applied foam dries.
If the installation went smoothly, you should not immediately get behind the wheel and take the updated tires for a test drive. Tires need to be given time to “adapt” to the studs, since the stretch and load in this case changes slightly. In addition, the soap foam must dry completely and finally “grab” the thorns and firmly fix them.
You can install tires on the car 2-3 days after the manipulations have been performed.
Healthy! If during the running-in process some of the studs have fallen out, it is better not to insert them back, since when they fly out the holes are deformed and re-installing the products in them is a useless exercise.
If you decide to stud rubber without the corresponding holes, you will have to make them yourself. This is a labor-intensive job, during which you can accidentally damage the rubber. In this case, in addition to an air gun, you will need a special tubular drill.
Re-studding
Secondary studding (restudding) is a know-how that allows you to extend the life of a tire at minimal financial cost. In this case, tires with existing (worn out or fallen out) studs are used as tires. For this type of work, special spikes are used - repair ones. They are distinguished by an enlarged cap, so the products can be installed even in a deformed hole. If we talk about the material from which such products are made, they mainly consist of a metal body, a plastic sleeve and a hard alloy tip.
Important! When re-studding winter tires, make sure that the tread is not too worn out. Its depth must be at least 7 mm.
The process of installing new studs in place of old ones is not much different from the initial studding. The only thing worth paying attention to is cleaning the holes from dirt, stones, sand and other foreign materials, including old spikes. In all other respects, the installation system is the same.
In conclusion
Studring winter tires, the video of which is presented below, is not difficult. In order to complete the installation yourself, no special skills or craftsmanship are required. In a car service center, specialists use an air gun in the same way, only in this case you will not be able to check the quality of the studs used. Therefore, in this matter it is better to trust only yourself, especially considering that if you purchase high-quality components, the tires will serve you for many years.
Cycling enthusiasts are often forced to buy expensive winter tires to ride in cold weather. One studded tire will cost incredible amounts of money, even if it is made in China, not to mention branded ones. It is much easier to make studded tires yourself and it will be much cheaper. However, you will have to spend a lot of time creating such rubber. Although in words, everything is quite simple.
For step-by-step instructions, watch this video
To work you need:
- old tire;
- self-tapping screws with a wide head;
- awl;
- glue moment;
- gloves;
- screwdriver;
- scissors;
- camera.
Self-tapping screws should not be very long, but be sure to wide hats. This will make the fastening more secure.
First of all, we need to remove and disassemble the tire from the wheel. Now we take an awl and pierce holes in the places where we will insert the spikes. Please note that punctures should be made in thicker areas of the tire. Because in thinner ones, the rubber may come apart.
We pierce holes all over the wheel, the work is quite labor-intensive and dreary.
After all the holes are made, we proceed to further work.
Definitely with inside Mark all the holes made with chalk or a pen, the main thing is that you see them clearly in order to get into them.
Now take the glue and apply a drop at a time to each hole from the inside. Then we take a self-tapping screw and screw it into the hole with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Don't twist them too tightly.
There are about 350 studs per wheel, but you can make more or more. See at your own discretion. The work is quite long and tedious, so be patient in advance, screwing in the screws one by one. Don't forget to apply glue before screwing in the screw. This is important for keeping it securely in place.
Do not coat too many points at once, 4-5 will be enough. Otherwise, the glue will dry out and the adhesion of the screw head to the surface of the tire will not be good enough.
Advice: If your tire is dark on the inside, use transparent glue, this will allow you to see exactly where you made the hole and not make a mistake when screwing in the screw.
After all the screws are in place, take the camera and cut it lengthwise, along the seam. This is necessary in order to place it under the camera, which will help avoid friction on the spikes and rubbing it. We wrap the cut chamber around the inflated chamber. You can also glue it for security. We put studded tires on top and we can carry out tests.
When riding a bicycle through mud and snow, you often have to overcome places where it is difficult even to walk. It is for crossing impassable off-road terrain that you need studded tires on a bicycle.
By the number of studs, bicycle tires should be selected depending on where you will ride most often. If in the city, where the roads are more or less cleared, then a minimum of studs on a bicycle tire, arranged in two rows, is sufficient. The choice is simple: the more dirt and ice there is on the road, the more spikes there should be.
It is important to know that after changing summer tires to studded tires, the total weight bicycle. This is not surprising, because the spikes are made of metal and there are many of them, although they are small.
Steel spikes
Studded bicycle tires are primarily distinguished by the presence of steel hooks. From 100 to 400 studs are installed on one tire. They are assembled from two parts: a glass with a flange and a carbide pin. Glasses are stamped from mild steel or aluminum. They are needed to secure the pin in soft rubber. The pins are made of an alloy of iron with tungsten carbide (WC) and an admixture of niobium and titanium carbides (NbC, TiC). This alloy is known as “win.” To completely wear out the pobedite studs, you will need to drive at least 4 winters on cleared roads.
For installation in cups with a seat, the pins are wedge-shaped. They can have a flat top for muddy rides or a pointed top for good traction on ice.
Over time, the flat and pointed pins will develop the same rounded shape. When driving on asphalt roads, there is practically no difference in wear rates between the two types of studs. A large difference in wear rate between different studs is observed when driving on the ground. Sharp spikes wear out faster when driving on the ground, due to greater penetration into the ground. But they hold up better on ice and packed snow.
Low temperature compound
Real winter bicycle tires are not made of rubber at all, since it hardens in the cold to the elasticity of plastic. And the tire must have good grip on frozen ground or compacted snow and ice. Winter tires are made from a compound - a material that retains elasticity and elasticity at sub-zero temperatures. They are marked "W" or "Winter". Like all soft rubber tires, they tend to self-clean.
On products, the presence of the compound is indicated by the “Winter” marking. The Nokian company, which changed its name to Suomityre, adopted the marking “Winter rubber 58A”, where 58 is an indicator of the hardness of the compound. The manufacturer uses a base compound labeled “SBC”.
Double-row and multi-row
Studded tires are divided into two types: double-row and multi-row. The number of rows of studs on a tire determines the style of cycling.
On two-row roads you need to drive through ice at a lower speed. Especially if the rows of spikes on them are spaced far apart. These tires are designed for fast driving on the road surface in winter. Their side studs work best when cornering. And before going onto the ice, you need to dismount and reduce the pressure in the chambers so that the spikes installed far from each other can bite into the ice layer.
Double-row tires with studs set close to the center line are universal for driving on asphalt roads and ice. But you can’t move on the road as quickly as on a two-row with widely spaced spikes. There are reviews that say that during sharp braking, apparently on asphalt, the pins break out of them along with the cups.
Double-row tires are cheaper than multi-row tires and are a little lighter, because they have less iron installed. Of course, you need to ride on ice on these bike tires more carefully than on multi-row studs. Without making sharp turns and without sudden braking.
Four-row winter tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker HS 333. Produced in one size - 26x2.10 inches. It has 304 spikes and weighs 1 kg. Price – 118 dollars
Double-row tire Schwalbe Snow Stud HS 264 with widely spaced studs. Available in one size – 26×1.90 inches. It has 102 spikes and weighs 980 grams. Price – 78 dollars
Two-row Suomityres (Nokian) Stud A10 with widely spaced spikes. Available in four sizes: 26×1 1/2×2 – 62 studs, 26×1.5 – 100 studs, 28×1.5 – 76 studs, 28×1 5/8×1.5 – 74 studs
Tire for city and touring bicycles Suomityres Hakkapeliitta W106 with narrow studs. Produced in diameters of 26 and 28 inches, sizes 26×1.9, 28×700×45С, 700×35С. There are 106 spikes installed on it, as indicated by the markings. Relatively inexpensive - $50
Schwalbe Winter double-row city tire with narrowly spaced studs. Available in four sizes: 26x1.75, 700x30C, 700x35C, 700x40C. Depending on the size, it has from 100 to 120 spines. Weighs about 1 kg. Price – $59
Folding, tubeless tires
Nowadays, the technology of manufacturing folding tires is used, in which the cord is not wound with metal wire, but is woven from Kevlar thread.
There are two “cool” studded tires on sale and the only ones that are folding in their structure. They can be installed on the rim without a tube using special glue.
Four-row folding spike Suomityres WXC300. Has a size of 26×2.2. The lightest tire in its class - weighs 750 grams. It has 304 studs installed
Five-row tire Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro HS 379. Available in several versions: 26×2.10 – 361 studs, 26×2.35 – 361 studs, 29×2.10 – 402 studs. Depending on the size, it weighs only 695, 850, 890 grams. The highest price is $168
Tread design
If you carefully compare the tread patterns of many tires, you will notice a pattern. The fact is that there are two types of protectors:
- positive – the total area of the lugs is equal to or greater than the area of the grooves;
- negative – the lugs are high and occupy a smaller area compared to total area furrows
Tires designed for driving on road surfaces have positive tread. In addition, it forms a smooth running track along the longitudinal axis. For example: the Continental Nordic Spike cross-country tire, with a tread pattern characteristic of mountain bikes, has an additional chain of lugs along the treadmill axis.
Cross studded tire Continental Nordic Spike. Has a size of 28×1.6. Supplied in two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Weighs 850 or 900 grams. Cost – $75
Urban four-row stud Schwalbe Marathon Winter HS 396. Available in sizes: 20×1.60, 24×1.75, 26×1.75, 26×2.00, 700×35C, 700×40C, 28×2.00. Depending on the size, it weighs from 900 to 1300 grams. Price – 87 dollars
To navigate rough terrain with deep snow or mud, tires must have negative tread to prevent them from becoming clogged with mud and able to dig down to solid ground.
Nokian Extreme off-road tire. Available in two sizes: 26×2.1 and 29×2.1. It contains 294 spikes in six rows
Continental Spike Claw off-road tire. Manufactured in sizes 26×2.1. May have two or four rows with 120 or 240 spikes. Can weigh 840 or 900 grams. Price – 70 dollars
Universal studded tire Innova 26 IA. Has a size of 26×2.10, equipped with 268 studs in four rows
The Innova 26 IA bicycle tire is universal because its tread has a negative structure, but its angled lugs form a straight tread.
Tire width
It is more profitable to install a narrower tire for driving in deep snow. It will quickly cut through the layer of snow to a dense base. When driving through snow, a wide tire will hang up in the snow, not having time to rest against the base, the wheel will begin to crawl on the sides.
Narrow tires allow you to move through higher layers of snow. In reality, on snow cover above 10-15 cm it is impossible to ride a bicycle with any tires. A person gets tired very quickly when working for a long time with increased load. And turning in deep snow will be another impossible task.
The widest possible tire is needed for driving on snow crust, trampled paths and winter roads, as well as for overcoming deep mud.
Homemade spike
You can stud any tire, but one made of soft rubber is much preferable - it will hold homemade hooks more tightly. Anyone can make studded tires at home, but it will be much heavier and more unreliable than a factory product.
- It is necessary to buy self-tapping screws for metal: hardened ones with a flat, low head.
- Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the lugs. It is convenient to screw in the self-tapping screw immediately after the hole is made.
- It is better to drill holes with a small drill with a diameter of 2 mm, at high speeds of the drill. In a cut hole, the rubber does not experience overstress when stretched by a self-tapping screw, as in a hole pierced with an awl.
- The ends of all self-tapping screws protruding outwards must be cut to a height of 4 mm above the surface of the rubber.
- It is important to make a gasket to protect the camera from rubbing. It can be cut out from an old chamber, spread along the inner radius. Or you can cover the heads of the screws with protective Kevlar or insulating Mylar adhesive tape.
Do not forget that any studded tire, even a homemade one, needs to be broken in so that the studs take their working position in the rubber. You just need to drive a distance of 40-50 km on a hard road surface, with reduced pressure in the chamber. After this, you can storm winter roads and mud swamps.
By winter roads is relevant for every motorist. Many people prefer studded wheels, which are really effective on snowy and icy roads. But is it worth buying a ready-made version of the treads if you can stud the tires yourself? Let's figure it out.
Self-studding technique for tires.In what cases are tires studded by hand?
Studring winter tires with your own hands only makes sense in certain cases:
- there is no financial opportunity to buy expensive studded wheels from a reliable and well-known manufacturer;
- the range of available studded tires does not and does not match preferences;
- tires must correspond to individual operating conditions.
The choice of tires with studs is not small, but most of the models are of insufficiently high quality. The spikes fly out when driving, which quickly renders the rubber unusable. This is one of the reasons that forces motorists to create studs themselves. For studding, new or used tires can be selected. The main requirement that is placed on it relates to high quality, good condition and .
What are the best spikes to choose?
Before you pick up a pneumatic gun and stud winter tires with your own hands, you need to choose the right studs. Many manufacturers offer such items for upgrading tires, but preference should be given to products from a well-known brand. All spikes are divided into three categories depending on the material from which they were made:
- metal;
- with plastic body;
- aluminum.
Another classification is based on the shape of the elements:
- oval;
- with four edges;
- with several flanges.
Oval shaped studs with one flange are easy to install. This work will be easy to handle even for a person who is doing this for the first time. On a car that is used and drives on poor-quality road surfaces, it is necessary to install tires with double-flange studs. If you choose by brand, then preference should be given to Nokian and Gislaved. These manufacturers are popular in the world market. Their products always meet high quality standards.
How to do it using improvised tools?
Do-it-yourself tire studding can be done in various ways:
- The manual method is time-consuming and complex. Its essence is to use a special key and a regular screwdriver, you will also need a hammer. The only advantage is that there is no need for a special tool that will need to be purchased or rented. But you will have to work hard with your hands.
- The semi-automatic option is implemented through the use of a screwdriver and an attachment. The essence of this method is to push the spike inside the rubber with a screwdriver. Here the work will be done faster. The disadvantage of this method is the need to control the position of each element.
- The automatic method is the most convenient and fastest, but it can only be implemented if there is special equipment- pneumatic pistol. But each spike will be securely and correctly fixed, therefore, the final result will be much better. The equipment costs a lot, you will have to look for the possibility of renting a compressor, pneumatic lines and the gun itself.
If by coincidence you have to use manual method, then surely ours practical guide by the way:
- The washed tire with cleaned holes is put on the end of the board.
- The mandrel is held in the left hand.
- Each spike is wetted in soapy water. Use is prohibited. For example, machine oil will destroy the rubber around the stud, and it will soon fall out. At large quantities oil, you can even get a through hole.
- With our right hand we move the rod up and place the spike in the lower area of the tube.
- The mandrel is installed with a spike on the hole strictly perpendicular to the tread.
- We hit the end with a hammer and drive the element into the tread.
If you are lucky and have equipment for automatic studding at hand, then you need to proceed as follows:
- If there are no holes in the tires, they must be made. For this, a drill and a tubular drill are used. Depth fixation must be present.
- The tire must be well secured.
- Wet the rubber soap solution. In this case, the penetration of the studs into the rubber will be easier.
- The required number of spikes is placed in the air gun.
- The gun is placed vertically, the paws are fixed in the hole.
- The air gun is pressed tightly against the hole. It is important to install it evenly; distortions are unacceptable.
- We pull the trigger and check that the spike is positioned correctly.
- When the work is completed, the rubber is left until the solution dries completely.
This procedure is new. With its help, you can increase the life of a tire without significant costs. Re-installation of studs is carried out on winter tires that contain worn elements and empty holes. You need to buy special spikes that are designed specifically for this type of work. Such elements have a large cap, which allows them to hold well in empty, stretched holes. The design of such spikes has the following structure:
- metal body;
- plastic sleeve;
- a tip for which especially hard alloys are used.
The process of re-studding is no different from that already described above. The only condition concerns thorough cleaning of the holes. Inside there is dirt, sand, old thorns and other foreign objects may remain. All this needs to be extracted.
How to save thorns?
Studded tires are put aside for at least two months. This point should be taken into account and work should begin in advance. Moreover, tires with installed studs must be run-in. To do this, you will need to drive the first 300 kilometers in a calm mode, without sudden acceleration, braking, or drifting. If empty holes are found after running in, do not reinstall the studs. These holes are already stretched, the spikes will not hold in them. Run-in should take place on asphalt, preferably dry, without snow and dirt. This approach will allow all elements to take their place, which will ensure their durability.
Is it possible to make spikes yourself?
Theoretically, it is possible to manually make elements for studding rubber. But in practice it is not worth implementing this idea. Such homemade elements will be of very low quality, their fixation in rubber will be weak, and installation will be problematic. Ready-made elements for tucking are not that expensive, even if we take into consideration products from well-known manufacturers. In the process of their manufacture, a special alloy with a complex formula is used. Even similar and fake studs are subject to rapid wear, which entails rapid destruction of the rubber. In a word, we do not recommend doing self-production elements for tucking.
Independent studding has a right to exist. It won’t be easy or quick, but the end result is worth all these difficulties, time and money. We advise you not to give up this idea.