What is the pressure in a household gas reducer. Types, design and adjustment of the gas reducer

ATTENTION! This material is about connecting bottled gas at the dacha with your own hands cannot be used for reference or methodological material , as it may contain errors and violations of existing standards. Please contact your gas service or certified specialists for any advice on connecting bottled gas in your home.

Yes, I'm serious: liquefied bottled gas is a serious and dangerous thing - check everything with relevant specialists several times before connecting bottled gas to your home. The gas becomes dangerous when it mixes with air and accumulates in any closed volume. Therefore, all existing standards for laying gas pipelines provide for open laying of gas pipes at a height so that the gas has time to be dispersed by the wind before reaching the ground (gas is heavier than air). Gas pipes must be solid or welded - and must withstand fire in the event of a fire. Therefore, it is unacceptable to use it for gas supply to the house. plastic pipes or metal-plastic. The ideal pipe for gas is a bellows (corrugated) stainless steel pipe. Gas cylinders must be certified by the gas service, without corrosion or damage. The safest type of steel cylinder is one with a valve instead of a valve. There are also explosion-proof fiberglass cylinders made in Norway or Sweden (there are also domestic ones - Nizhny Novgorod). Such gas cylinders release gas when heated, melt in a fire and do not explode.

Let's see how we connected bottled gas in our country house. I repeat once again: do not copy what has been done: the work of connecting bottled gas at the dacha was carried out by a non-professional at your own peril and risk, with possible violations and errors. To connect your home, contact your gas service.

The rules for laying external and internal gas pipelines, the installation of individual gas cylinder installations for residential buildings are regulated by the updated (updated) SNiP 42-01-2002 in the form of a set of rules SP 62.13330.2011* "Gas distribution systems". So, let's see what requirements apply to individual gas cylinder installations with LPG (With liquefied at hydrocarbon G basics) for individual residential buildings, what external and internal gas pipelines should be, and in what rooms gas appliances and apparatus are allowed to be placed.

So, individual (up to two gas cylinders) LPG cylinder installations are now can be placed both outside and inside buildings[p. 8.2.5 SP 62.13330.2011]. It is allowed to place cylinders with a volume of no more than 0.05 m (50 l) in apartments of a residential building(no more than one cylinder per apartment) no more than two floors high(excluding ground and basement floors). However, the permissibility of placing gas cylinders in a house or apartment, as is often the case in the “legislative mess” Russian Federation, contradicts paragraph 91 Government Decree (PP) of the Russian Federation No. 390 "On the fire safety regime":It is prohibited to store cylinders with flammable gases in individual residential buildings, apartments and living rooms, as well as in kitchens, escape routes, stairwells, in the ground floors, in basements and attics, on balconies and loggias. At the same time, paragraph 92 of the RF PP No. 390 provides that 1 cylinder with a volume of no more than 5 liters, connected to a factory-made gas stove can be used in a house or apartment. According to paragraph 94 of the same resolution, a warning sign must be placed at the entrance to buildings where there are gas cylinders fire safety with the inscription "Flammable. Gas cylinders."

But... I would I did not recommend storing, much less using, gas cylinders in an apartment, even in a two-story house: By limiting the number of floors in buildings in which gas cylinders can be used in apartments, legislators simply limited the number of potential victims if a gas cylinder explodes or leaks at night. It is known that the explosion of one gas cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in a building creates an overpressure of approximately 12.5 kPa, which is classified as sufficient to create moderate destruction (significant damage to load-bearing structural elements, partial destruction of walls and floors of buildings)[ Karibyants V.R. , Nadezhdin A.V. On the question of a method for assessing the degree of destruction of a multi-story residential building during a natural gas explosion in one of the premises. // Bulletin of the Astrakhan State Technical University, 2004 - No. 4 (20). - P. 35-39].

In the USA, such dangerous stupidity as the use and storage of gas cylinders inside the house is not allowed: according to paragraph 3-2.2.1 of the NFPA 58 (National Fire Protection Association) code, used gas cylinders must be located exclusively outdoors, with the exception of gas cylinders for vehicle fuel systems in garages, gas cylinders for equipment used in repair and construction work in the house during renovation or construction and empty cylinders for exchange, sale or disposal and unused cylinders limited in volume to no more than 1.1 liters, awaiting use, stored in accordance with special storage conditions. Perhaps thanks to sensible American legislation, we rarely hear about gas cylinder explosions in US homes. In Russia, thanks to liberal requirements for the storage and use of gas cylinders in houses and apartments, people often do not even understand the degree of danger to which they expose themselves and their neighbors thanks to such “good” officially approved Russian standards. It is not without reason that the news constantly contains stories about explosions of gas cylinders and significant destruction in residential buildings in Russia.

Rules for storing gas cylinders in buildings in accordance with the requirements of Chapter 5 of the American code NFPA 58:
- gas cylinders may only be stored in non-residential, lightly used, well-ventilated areas away from doors, stairs and any mechanical or electrical potential sources of sparks.
- all gas cylinder valves must be closed and protective caps must be screwed onto the gas outlet fittings until they stop.
- in residential and public premises it is allowed to store gas cylinders with a volume of no more than 1.1 liters. The total volume of gas cylinders cannot exceed 91 liters.
- gas cylinders located on the street should be located no closer than 6.1 meters from the entrance to the building.

According to Russian fire safety standards, gas cylinders can be located outside buildings in extensions (cabinets or under covers covering the top of the cylinders and reducer) from non-combustible materials at the blank part of the wall at a distance of at least 5 meters from the entrances to the building, ground and basement floors [p. 92 RF PP No. 390]. In conflict with these standards are the recommendations of SP 62.13330.2011, which state that individual LPG cylinder installations should be placed outside at a clear horizontal distance of at least 0.5 m from window openings and 1.0 m from doorways first floor, at least 3.0 m from the door and window openings of the ground and basement floors, as well as sewer wells. It is not allowed to place the LPG cylinder installation near emergency exits, on the side of the main facades of buildings. I would recommend focusing on the time-tested (used with regular revisions since 1943) American standards NFPA 58, which regulate the minimum safe distance from the installation site of LPG gas cylinders before entering the building no less 6.1 m, up to windows and vents - 1 m (91 cm), to ventilation and air conditioning devices - 1.5 m, to flammable materials - 3 meters.

Although, as we found out, it is better not to keep gas cylinders indoors due to safety reasons, Russian standards describe the rules for placing gas cylinders in residential buildings (clause 8.2.6 SP 62.13330.2011): An LPG gas cylinder should be placed at a distance at least 0.5 m from the gas stove(excluding built-in cylinders) and 1 m - from heating devices. When installing a screen between the cylinder and the heating device, the distance can be reduced to 0.5 m. The screen must be made of non-combustible materials and protect the cylinder from thermal effects heating device. When installing an LPG gas cylinder outdoors, it should be protected from damage by transport and heating above 45 °C.
Installation of LPG gas cylinders is not allowed:
- in living rooms and corridors;
- in basements and basements and attics;
- in rooms without natural light;
- in premises located in, under and above the dining and sales areas of public catering establishments;
auditoriums and classrooms, auditoriums (assembly) halls of buildings, hospital wards, etc. [p. 8.2.7 SP 62.13330.2011]. Once again I will repeat my personal opinion and the requirements of American standards - there should be no gas cylinders in residential premises, except for micro-cylinders with a volume of up to 1.1 liters, the explosion of which will not lead to death and collapse of building structures, and a gas leak will not create lethal concentrations!

Requirements for external and internal gas pipelines (pipelines for the vapor phase of LPG).

According to the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 “Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes” (clause 5.8), gas pipelines along the walls of buildings are recommended lay without disturbing the architectural elements of the facade at a height that provides the possibility of inspecting and repairing gas pipelines and excluding the possibility of them mechanical damage . In places where people pass, it is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a height of 2.2 m (clause 5.13). True, this requirement applies to laying a gas pipeline on supports. However, the less people have the opportunity to influence the gas pipeline (fall on it, accidentally hit it with a stone or shovel, drop a burning object on it) - the more secure the gas pipeline will be.

According to the provisions of paragraph 4.3 of SP 62.13330.2011, for external and internal laying of a gas pipeline from an LPG cylinder installation, with a reducer installed on the gas cylinder, which reduces the gas pressure from 0.1 mPa to 2-3 thousandths mPa, you can use steel pipes (seamless or electric welded), copper, multilayer polymer and polyethylene pipes reinforced with fibers or a steel mesh frame. Polymer (polyethylene) pipes are recommended for underground installation. According to the requirements of the NFPA 58 code, the minimum depth of penetration of polymer pipes into the ground to prevent their damage is 48 cm. For open external installation, polymer gas pipeline pipes are not recommended, as they can easily be damaged when heated, by rodents or intruders. American standards require the placement of non-breaking polymer pipes in a steel pipe casing for external installation. Steel pipes must be protected from corrosion in accordance with the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 "Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes." The external laying of gas pipelines must be continuous. Ideally, from the LPG cylinder gas installation to the gas appliance in the house there should be a continuous pipeline with shut-off valves and safety valves (optional - for vertical position, temperature, gas flow) located at the cylinder and at the gas appliance. It is not allowed to install shut-off devices when laying gas pipelines along the walls of a building.

Connections of gas pipeline pipes should be permanent. Detachable connections are allowed in places where technical devices are installed [clause 5.1.4 SP 62.13330.2011]. For internal gas pipelines in buildings, gas pipe connections are allowed: for steel pipes- butt and overlap welding, for copper pipes- soldering and pressing, for metal-polymer - compression. It is not permitted to place gas pipeline connections of any kind in walls, ceilings, structures, or in places with limited visibility and access.

The gas pipeline must be introduced into the house directly into the room in which gas-using equipment is installed, or into an adjacent room connected by an open opening [clause 5.1.6 SP 62.13330.2011]. Where the gas pipeline enters the house, the pipes must be enclosed in a case (sleeve). The ends of the casing at the points of entry and exit of the gas pipeline from the ground, the gap between the gas pipeline and the casing at the gas pipeline entries into buildings should be sealed with elastic material over the entire length of the casing [clause 5.1.4 SP 62.13330.2011]. In single-family or semi-detached houses, it is even permitted to introduce gas into the basement or ground floor. I would not conduct such experiments, remembering that this norm is determined by the principle of limiting human casualties - the gas is heavier than air (the propane phase of steam is 1.5 times heavier than air, and the butane phase is 2 times heavier) and accumulates in depressions without a chance of weathering, and a mixture of natural gas in a concentration of 5-15% with air is an extremely explosive mixture. A person begins to perceive the smell of gas when its concentration in the atmosphere is about 1%. Fortunately, when it comes to basements and plinths, domestic standards require that they be equipped with gas control and fire safety systems. Premises in the house in which pressure control devices are installed, gas flow meters and detachable connections are located must be protected from access by unauthorized persons. The gas boiler room of a residential building must be equipped with a carbon monoxide sensor that issues sound and light signals, as well as automatically shuts off the gas supply to gas-using equipment. In general, for safe gasification of buildings, as a rule, it is necessary to provide for the installation of protective fittings on gas pipelines for automatic shutdown gas supply in case emergency situations:
- when the permissible maximum gas consumption value is exceeded;
- when dangerous concentrations of gas or carbon monoxide appear in a gasified room;
- if signs of fire appear in a gasified room (thermal shut-off gas valve) [clause 7.12 SP 62.13330.2011].

Inside the building, gas pipelines can be made of metal pipes (steel and copper) and heat resistant (!) multilayer polymer pipes, including, among other things, one metal layer (metal-polymer). Pipes for the vapor phase of natural gases (after the gas cylinder reducer) inside the building may be produced as open method and with installation in a groove, provided there are no pipe connections. When laying gas pipelines hidden from steel and copper pipes, it is necessary to provide additional measures to protect them from corrosion, ensure ventilation of the grooved channels and access to the gas pipeline during operation. Concealed laying of gas pipelines from multilayer metal-polymer pipes should be carried out followed by plastering of the walls. Pipes in the groove must be laid monolithically or freely (subject to measures being taken to seal the groove). At places passing through building structures building pipes should be laid in cases [clause 7.5 of SP 62.13330.2011]. It is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a distance of at least 50 cm from any type of opening.

Both the LPG gas cylinders themselves and gas appliances can be connected to gas pipelines with flexible hoses that are resistant to the transported gas at a given pressure and temperature, including heat-resistant flexible multilayer polymer pipes reinforced with synthetic threads, subject to their suitability for use being confirmed in the prescribed manner in construction [clause 7.3 SP 62.13330.2011]. Clause 7.6 allows the transit laying of a crack-free internal gas pipeline exclusively in an open way through residential premises (something I would also not do). It is not allowed to use gas-using equipment in residential premises - that is, for example, using gas convectors to heat bedrooms is unacceptable.

Clause 95 of RF PP No. 390 prohibits when using household gas appliances:
A) operate household gas appliances when there is a gas leak;
b) attach parts of gas fittings using a spark-producing tool;
V) check the tightness of connections using open flame sources, including matches, lighters, candles. (Check the threaded connections of gas lines with soapy water, shampoo or shaving foam).

So, we connect a gas stove in the kitchen to bottled gas. For connection we use seamless bellows stainless pipe Colfuso in plastic. The gas pipe will go to the cabinet with gas cylinders without breaks. The advantage of Colfuso pipe: resistance to corrosion, no need for welding, flexibility (can be bent in one place up to 100 times), fire resistance. Such a pipe costs about 120 rubles per meter. Safety and reliability are worth the money.

The pipe was brought into the room in the kitchen a few meters from the gas stove. Supply gas pipe to the stove is made under the countertop with access to the gas stove through the adjacent cabinet to protect the gas pipe from heating by the oven installed under the gas surface. Additionally, the gas pipeline section will be protected with basalt wool in foil. This will be done because we have checked that while the oven is operating, the section of the gas pipe adjacent to the oven gets hot enough.

In order to gas stove I worked with bottled gas, in the stove it is necessary to replace the nozzles (nozzles) with a large hole diameter with nozzles with a small nozzle diameter. IN Soviet era When there was nothing to buy, the jets were caulked (flattened with a hammer) to reduce the size of the jet nozzle. Gas injectors (nozzles) for bottled gas have smaller opening sizes than injectors for main gas. The larger the burner on a gas stove, the larger the hole in the nozzle. Gas stove nozzles are suitable for bottled gas (propane) minimum size- 44, 50 - for small burners and 68, 70 for large burners on gas stoves.Using a fitting with dielectric gaskets, the bellows pipe is connected to the gas stove. In our case, the gas line is connected to the cylinder through a rubber hose. If the entire gas line is metal, then when connecting the stove to the line, a dielectric gasket is needed so that static electricity It was impossible to reach the gas cylinder through the metal pipe. We will additionally have a section with a rubber hose for connecting to the gas cylinder. The fewer threaded connections there are on the gas main, the higher the reliability of the system as a whole. To seal threaded connections for connecting gas appliances and shut-off valves, fum tape or flax with Multipack paste is used.Standard paste for water supply seals - Unipack is not suitable for gas mains. For external installation, we enclose the Colfuso seamless bellows pipe in an additional protective corrugated channel and thermal insulation. There is no need to do this - the gas main must be accessible for viewing and provide for gas venting in the event of a leak.The gas main must be laid along the façade at a height of at least 2.2 meters (so that it is not damaged by people and, in the event of a possible leak, the gas would be carried by the wind and not accumulate in the terrain). The gas line must be accessible for inspection. We install a steel cabinet for gas cylinders on the northern wall of a house with few windows. The cabinet will be installed on an elevated position so that if a leak occurs, the gas has the opportunity to dissipate. The basis for the foundation is metal pipes, driven to a depth of 2 m. At the same time, one of the pipes will serve as the grounding of the cabinet for gas cylinders.The grounding of the gas cylinder cabinet will be connected through the double steel strip of mounting tape. We paint the joints of the tape and the post. We reinforce the base with two-layer reinforcement (from waste reinforcement - there will be no loads here.Ready casting of the foundation for the gas cabinet. NFPA 58 3-2.4.1 requires gas cylinders to be installed on a solid, stable foundation or secured to prevent them from tipping over. For additional safety, it is recommended to install safety shut-off valves on gas cylinders that shut off the gas supply if they tip over. Using porcelain stoneware, we create gaps to drain possible gas leaks from under the bottom of a steel cabinet for gas cylinders. There must be at least 3 meters from the installation site of the gas cabinet to dry grass, branches, brushwood, firewood and any other flammable material. Smoking is prohibited within a radius of 7 meters from the gas cabinet. On gas cabinet a “No Smoking! Flammable” warning sticker must be affixed [clause 6107.2 of the International building code ICC] or “Flammable. Gas” in accordance with paragraph 93 of the Russian Federation Regulations No. 390.Now a small ode to domestic business about steel cabinets for gas cylinders. The situation with steel cabinets for gas cylinders (at least in St. Petersburg) is a complete mess. For 2500-3500 rubles, domestic manufacturers offer what can rather be called not a “steel cabinet”, but a metal case for gas cylinders. Steel - from 0.5 to 0.9 mm thick and of the worst quality (rusts instantly). I was lucky - and I bought a powder-coated (albeit shoddy) cabinet. Many people sell cabinets in the ground for the same money. I immediately painted the bottom of this wonderful cabinet swaying in the wind with Hammerite. Then you will have to paint the entire cabinet - the slightest scratches will immediately rust.

I repeat once again - I bought best wardrobe for gas cylinders from those available on the market St. Petersburg. This cabinet, unlike analogues from manufacturers without any conscience or concepts, at least had ventilation holes in the walls and bottom. Other cabinets did not have such holes. As they explained to me in one of the Lengazapparat stores (!) - “our closet has slots - and that’s how everything is ventilated.” By the way, after the winter this cabinet also became rusty - it had to be completely painted with Hammerite.

In general: if someone starts producing cabinets from good thick steel, with proper ventilation, well painted, with a grounding terminal and at a price of up to 4,000 rubles - financial success awaits you. Or turn to the Chinese again? ( 中国使煤气瓶一个很好的内阁 )

Yes, the cabinet for gas cylinders is attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws to protect against wind and lovers of other people's cabinets.

The bellows pipe is inserted into the cabinet for gas cylinders through a hole in the rear wall (with an elastic polypropylene mounting tape). We assemble a unit with a gas shut-off valve and a fitting for switching to a gas hose. The hose plays the role of an additional dielectric gasket. It’s also not worth saving 30 rubles on a hose: a multi-layer, high-quality frost- and UV-resistant Austrian gas hose Semperit costs 50 rubles per meter. Section 2-4.6.3 of NFPA 58 prohibits the use of gas hoses from non-bonded manufacturers (that is, manufactured by unknown whom, unknown where, unknown how).Now about the reducers: this is an inexpensive but very important joke that reduces the pressure from a gas cylinder to a safe one (0.0015-0.003 MPa = 1.5-3.0 kPa). The Baltika gearbox (on the left) costs two hundred rubles. This is a reducer for a gas cylinder with a valve. It is fixed on the cylinder with three spring-loaded balls. There are also “Belarusian” (or actually Chinese?) “frog” type gearboxes for valve cylinders for the same two hundred rubles. On the right is an Italian (most likely Italian) gearbox costing about 350-400 rubles with an operating pressure at the outlet of 3 kPa (30 mbar). The most important thing is that the connection of the reducer to the cylinder is ensured by a fitting with a threaded connection. This type of gearbox is much safer. Most gas accidents occur due to leaks in faulty gearboxes. Gas cylinders with a valve are much less safe cylinders compared to cylinders with a valve - both during operation and during transportation. And yet, since our gas quality is Russian, a fair amount of liquid will gradually accumulate in the cylinder gas condensate(3-5 l). With a valve gas cylinder, you will not be able to drain it and will regularly donate your money to gas station attendants. The valve cylinder can be relieved of condensation (after releasing the pressure) by turning the cylinder over and opening the valve in a well-ventilated place without sources of fire or sparks. And, by the way, don’t go pay for gas until the gas station attendant shows you the weight of the cylinder without gas and the weight of the cylinder with gas. Otherwise, you know... Well, in general, everything is as usual with us...Not all gas reducers are equally useful: on the left is a gas reducer, which is most likely Italian. On the right: an adjustable gas reducer, which is definitely not Italian. The most dangerous thing about this gearbox is the steel nut instead of the bronze one. If you use a steel wrench to tighten a threaded connection, the impact of the steel of the wrench on the steel of the nut may create a spark. The impact of steel on bronze does not produce a spark. Also, the thickness of the fitting on the “left” gearbox is much smaller - which means there is a higher probability of gas leakage. On the left is a simulated plastic “mesh” on the “left” gas reducer. On the right is a high-quality steel mesh of an Italian gas reducer.The "left" gas reducer is characterized by low quality of manufacturing and assembly. The seller of the branded gas equipment store where I purchased the gearbox, looking into my eyes, swore that both gearboxes were “branded” and “don’t mess with it.” The “left” gearbox is more expensive))). The Italian gas reducer is supplied with detailed installation instructions in several languages.We pull the gas hose onto the fitting and secure it with a clamp with a worm drive. To make pulling easier gas hose lubricate the fitting with clean tap water. If the reducer and hose are branded, you will have to apply force to connect the hose to the reducer.The Italian gas reducer does not require the installation of a paronite gasket: there is not even room for it. The reducer is installed on the gas cylinder in a strictly horizontal position (the membrane is vertically upward).Our LPG cabinet will have two 27 liter gas cylinders. This is the most convenient size of gas cylinder in terms of resource/transportation ratio for a male owner. Women need smaller and lighter gas cylinders (13 liters). In 2013, the cost of refilling a 27-liter gas cylinder is 280 rubles. We have selected correct size size of the jets: this is evidenced by the nature of the flame on gas burners plates: flame blue no red or orange tabs and does not come off the burner nozzles. Keep in mind the peculiarity of gas stoves with gas control and electric ignition: the handle should be held down during ignition for at least 5-7 seconds - otherwise the gas control will stop supplying gas, since the thermocouple of the sensor will not have time to heat up.If your gas stove is already connected, then you can look at the table for how long you need to cook various products. For example, shrimp, so that they do not become rubbery. And here you can see how we
I repeat once again: don't copy what you've done- work on connecting bottled gas at the dacha is completely done by a non-professional at your own peril and risk, with violations and errors. To connect bottled gas to a gas stove, contact a certified specialist or gas service.

Due to rising gasoline prices, many car owners began to equip their iron horses» gas equipment (LPG) in order to somehow save your finances. However, along with the new equipment, new troubles also appeared - its maintenance and configuration. Therefore, today we decided to address the problem of adjusting the gas reducer. After all, this must be done not only immediately after installing the LPG on the car, but also during the operation of this system.

The longer the mileage of the LPG and the period of its operation, the more necessary this adjustment becomes. The fact is that over time, rubber elements - valves and membranes - can change their properties, which, in turn, leads to excessive gas consumption. Of course, such consequences can occur only after 3-4 years of operation (this is approximately 100,000 km), but you should prepare for this in advance.

1. Gearbox adjustment: what is needed for adjustment?

Before you begin to get acquainted with the basic methods by which the gearbox is configured, you need to become more familiar with this device and its main characteristics. After all, it is the gas reducer that plays the most important role in the normal functioning of gas equipment. What is its main task? It is thanks to this unit that the driver of a car with gas equipment can reduce the gas pressure that comes from the cylinder. At its core, this is a rather primitive pressure regulator, which allows you to autonomously maintain the same pressure indicator.

But, since nothing in this world is perfect, the pressure may still fluctuate slightly during operation of the gas reducer. In practice it looks like this: when gas consumption is stable, the pressure also remains at a given level, and when it begins to be consumed more intensively, the pressure may drop slightly. Although in general this process does not pose any danger, it is still necessary to be aware of it.

As we already noted in our introduction, gearbox adjustment is needed during the installation of a new gas equipment on a car, as well as after it long-term operation. But in addition to these factors, the need for the frequency of adjustment and the specifics of performing this task is also associated with:

- generation of gas equipment and, accordingly, the gas reducer itself;

The number of regulators that are available on the gas reducer;

The fuel system on which a car engine runs is gasoline or diesel.

The gas reducer contains membranes that can freeze when low temperatures. For this reason, the gearbox must be connected to the automotive cooling system. If we talk about the operation of this gas equipment element in general, it is important to note the following point: it is impossible to start the gearbox simultaneously with the engine. First you need to wait until the engine temperature rises to 30-50°C, and after that you can put the gas reducer into operation.

The design of a conventional gas reducer is also simple. In particular, this device consists of the following parts:

- separate chambers, the number of which may vary depending on the type of gearbox (from 1 to 3);

Channel idle speed;

Evaporator;

A control system that controls the supply of gas from cylinders to the combustion chamber of the engine.

But on modern gas equipment you can find two types of gearboxes. They have a number of very important differences between themselves, which, in particular, has a significant impact on the process of setting them up. Let's look at the features of each of them:

1. Vacuum reducer. To put such a gearbox into operation, you must perform a number of mandatory actions:

- put the switch in the “Gas-Petrol” position;

Turn the key in the ignition;

Warm up the engine.

When the first two instructions are followed, the required amount of gas is pumped into the intake manifold, which will then allow you to start the engine without any problems and hit the road. The same is ensured through work.

2. Electronic device of the gas reducer. It turns on only when the switch is in the “Gas” position. Similar to the vacuum reducer, we turn on the ignition and give the starter the opportunity to work a little until it collects in the intake manifold required quantity gas, and the device itself will not warm up to the required temperature.

To properly configure the gas reducer, you need to understand absolutely everything about its settings. Yes, a larger number propane type reducers characterized by two regulators, although not found large number models with one. But methane analogues, on the contrary, almost always have only one regulator. It is the correct setting of the gas reducer regulator that is main problem for car owners.

Why are two regulators installed on gearboxes? The first of these is the idle air control. In the process of setting up the device, we will need to screw it all the way. But the bottom one is sensitivity regulator. It is he who presses the gearbox membrane. Having become familiar with this device in more detail, you can proceed directly to the setup procedure.

And to the question of what is needed to set up, the answer will be very simple - you need patience and strict adherence to the instructions below. You should also remember that you will have to work with gas equipment, so all your manipulations must be extremely careful. If you don't feel confident enough to own strength, it is best to seek help from a specialized car service center.

2. Gearbox adjustment methods

As we have already noted, there are electronic gas reducers and vacuum ones. Setting up each of them has its own characteristics and differences, for which reason we will consider methods for adjusting each of them separately.

Electronic gas reducer - which setting method to choose?

On this type of device, two types of settings must be used:

1. Adjusting sensitivity, or adjusting pressure in the second stage.

2. Adjustment according to the amount of gas that moves through the idle channel.

But before you begin both, you need to take a few more mandatory steps. First of all, we start the car engine on gasoline so that it can first warm up to operating temperature. In this case, the idle speed is set between 950 and 1000 rpm. When the engine temperature reaches the required level, turn off the gasoline supply and allow it to burn out the remainder.

After this, we prepare the car for direct adjustment of the gas reducer:

- turn the power register to maximum (if a two-chamber dispenser is installed, then open the first chamber completely, and the second to minimum);

We tighten the idle screw completely, and then turn it back exactly 5 turns;

Set the sensitivity control to the middle position.

Well, first of all, let's start adjusting the idle speed. To do this, we start the car, but on gas. Use the choke and bring the engine to 1700-2000 rpm. Next, you need to simultaneously perform two actions at once: remove the choke a little at a time and rotate the idle speed control until you can find the position in which the largest number of starter revolutions occurs. At the end of this procedure, the choke must be completely removed, and the car must begin to idle stably.

By setting using the idle air control maximum quantity starter speed, gradually tighten the gas reducer sensitivity regulator. If during this procedure the number of revolutions begins to change, again try to bring them to the maximum using the idle speed control. If you can’t do anything with this regulator, try tightening the sensitivity screw two turns and repeat the whole procedure again from the very beginning.

The goal you need to achieve is the maximum number of starter revolutions at idle (approximately 1100-1200 rpm), with the sensitivity regulator screwed almost all the way. But driving at such speeds is not recommended, since their value should be below the nominal norm. Therefore, we again tighten the idle speed control until the speed drops to 950-1100 rpm.

Now let's move on to setting the sensitivity of our gas reducer. We also slowly turn off the sensitivity control and monitor how our actions affect the starter speed, which it performs at idle. When we felt that the number of revolutions began to change, we twist the regulator back a little - about ¾-5/4 turns. Do not forget to also check the engine operation by sharply pressing the gas pedal. If you did everything well, he will respond immediately and without jerking.

When adjusting the gearbox, it is very important not to forget to adjust the power register. To do this, it is necessary to bring the starter of the working engine to 3-3.5 thousand revolutions per minute, while simultaneously tightening the power register regulator. This must be done until the starter speed begins to decrease. To make sure that you have achieved what you want, try moving the gas metering screw from place to place and unscrewing it about ½-3/4 turn from the found position.

But don’t worry about the fact that there are dispensers that consist of two sections. In this case, all the above steps must be applied only to the first camera, and the second one must be adjusted to only 25-30% of the first. Some gas reducers also have the ability to adjust the pressure in the 1st stage.

To make the adjustment, you need to completely turn off the engine, shut off the line through which the gas flows, and connect a pressure gauge to the cavity of the first stage (it is advisable to use a pressure gauge with a scale of 1.5 kgf/cm2, and it is connected through a control hole, which is turned off using a regulator). After that we open it again gas main, start idling the engine and bring the pressure of the first stage to 0.38-0.42 kgf/cm2.

Ideally, after adjusting the power register, you need to once again adjust the idle speed and sensitivity of the gas reducer. Only after this can you move on to final stage settings, which consists of several steps:

1. We press the gas pedal very sharply.

2. We turn the sensitivity control 0.25 turns until the intensity of the revolutions begins to decrease very much.

3. We turn the regulator back 0.5 turns and let the engine run a little, carefully monitoring the stability of this process.

What do you need to know about setting up a vacuum gas reducer?

Setting up vacuum-type gas reducers can also be done in two ways:

1. The sensitivity and idle speed of the gas reducer can be adjusted separately.

2. The sensitivity and idle speed of the gas reducer can be adjusted simultaneously.

As for the first setting method, it is no different from the process of adjusting the electronic gas reducer, which we have already described above. For this reason, we will look at how to combine these processes.

First of all, we tackle the idle speed. To do this, we start the car, but immediately on gas, not gasoline. Again, using a choke, we level the engine speed to 1700-2000 per minute. We slowly remove the choke and, using the idle speed regulator, achieve the maximum value for the number of starter revolutions (at the end the choke must be completely removed). Using the regulator, we achieve the speed intensity within the range of 1000-1100 rpm and at the end we set the norm - 950-1100 rpm, by tightening the regulator a little more.

Setting the vacuum gear power register is almost the same as setting it on an electronic prototype. In particular, you need to do the following:

- start the engine at idle speed;

We set the intensity to 3000-3500 rpm;

Turn the regulator until the speed starts to drop;

We try to adjust the register regulator, trying all the values;

We unscrew the register regulator by 0.5-0.75 turns, and also slightly adjust the idle speed.

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How does a gas reducer work? Operating principle. How to adjust the outlet pressure? (10+)

Gas reducer. Device. Operating principle. DIY repair, setting

The gas reducer (reducing) is designed to obtain a lower stable pressure at the outlet from a relatively high, but unstable gas pressure at the inlet. That is, gas under pressure can be supplied to the input of such a reducer within certain limits. Sometimes the upper and lower boundaries of these limits differ from each other by tens of times (for example, from 0.5 bar to 20 bar). At the output, a stable set pressure (for example, 36 mbar) is obtained, regardless of the input.

Application of gas reducers

Reducers are used where it is necessary to reduce excess inlet pressure and stabilize the outlet pressure. In everyday life we ​​meet them in autonomous gas supply systems (this applies to both stationary systems, and to ordinary gas cylinders), since liquefied gas, in order to remain liquid, must be at a pressure of about 15 bar, and household appliances operate at a pressure of 36 mbar, 20 mbar, or even 10 mbar.

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Ask a question. Discussion of the article. messages.

Hello, after refilling my propane tank again, I had a problem. After turning on the burner, a detonation pop occurs about a minute later. The flame goes out. Replacing the gearbox with a new one did not help. Tell me what needs to be done. Michael

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Gas pressure stabilizer (regulator) for methane, propane, butane.
This regulator (stabilizer) is intended for use with household equipment, it gives precise control of the outlet pressure regardless of the gas pressure entering it.

The regulator (stabilizer) is used in autonomous or stationary gas supply systems and ensures the supply of gas at the required pressure to household appliances, smoothing out possible fluctuations (increases) in pressure and ensuring stable operation of the appliances. This reducer is also installed in cases where devices with different input pressure requirements are connected to the same low-pressure pipeline.

Regulates pressure from low to low.
Has in its design:
- underpressure shut-off valve (UPSO)
- overflow shut-off valve

Models

Those. data

  • Inlet pressure: up to 400 mbar
  • Outlet pressure set: 20 mbar
  • Outlet pressure min-max: 18-25 mbar (it is possible to replace the spring with a range of 15 - 37 mbar or 30 - 60 mbar)
  • Input thread: G 3/4" internal (right).
  • Outlet thread: G 3/4" internal (right).
  • Operating temperature range: from -40С° to +60С°
  • Productivity: up to 15 kg/h (6-10 m3)
  • Weight: --- g.
  • Service life: up to 10 years.

Add. information

Examples of the use of stabilizers.

Example 1: The pressure in the pipeline is 50 mbar. A boiler with an operating pressure of 50 mbar and a stove with an operating pressure of 30 mbar are connected to it. A stabilizer is placed in front of the stove, which reduces the pressure from 50 mbar to 30 mbar.

Example 2: in a village with main gas gas pressure jumps. In the evening, at maximum flow, the pressure is normal. High blood pressure day and night. Installing a stabilizer solves the problem with increased pressure.


Manufacturer -

Not all settlements and our dacha areas are connected to a centralized gas supply. Unfortunately, there are still towns and villages in which bottled gas is actively used. For him safe use a gas reducer is required - a device that reduces the fuel pressure to the values ​​required for stoves and boilers.

We will tell you everything about the guidelines for choosing a reduction device. The information we provide will help you buy the most suitable gearbox for installation on gas cylinder. We describe in detail the types of devices and the criteria according to which preference should be given to a particular model.

Those wishing to independently install and connect the reduction device will be helped in detail by step by step instructions. Here you will find rules, compliance with which will protect you and extend the service life of gas installations. The article is illustrated with photographs and supplemented with video tutorials.

Stable job gas system depends on the quality and compatibility of all its components. When choosing a gearbox, it is necessary to take into account the compliance of its parameters with the needs of the devices connected through it.

Area of ​​application of devices

For a gearbox, the following indicators are considered as the main characteristics:

  • the type of gas that passes through the device;
  • method of connection to the system;
  • output pressure range;
  • maximum performance;
  • operating temperature range.

Cylinders with reducers can be installed inside or outside the house.

The room in which the equipment is installed is subject to increased requirements for air exchange with the ability to quickly ventilate in the event of an emergency. The outdoor option saves space inside the building and is safer in case of flammable gas leaks.

The pressure reducing device is designed to reduce the pressure of the gas pumped into the cylinder to the operating values ​​necessary for the normal functioning of gas equipment

Based on the type of gas passed through, reducers are divided into the following types, each of which is painted in a specific color for additional identification:

  • acetylene – white;
  • hydrogen – dark green;
  • oxygen – blue;
  • propane-butane – red;
  • methane - red.

The color marking of gearboxes manufactured outside of Russia may differ.

The reducer, designed for a cylinder with a propane-butane mixture, is painted red. Devices designed for other gases cannot be used for liquefied hydrocarbons.

The characteristics of the purchased gearbox must correspond to the parameters of the device with which it will be installed. Correct calibration of the output gas flow power is also important.

If the pressure value goes beyond the permissible range, the automation of a modern gas appliance will turn it off. If it is not equipped with such protection, then an emergency situation may arise.

Gearboxes, as potentially dangerous equipment, are subject to mandatory certification. If you have doubts about the factory origin of the purchased device, you must request a certificate of conformity.

System connection standards

To connect the reducer to a gas cylinder or to a supply line, 3 standards of threaded connections are usually used:

  • W 21.8 x 1/14– cylindrical thread standard DIN 477/T1, in Russia the abbreviation SP 21.8 is often used for it;
  • G– cylindrical pipe thread, where the number after the letter indicates the nominal diameter in inches;
  • M– metric thread, where the first number after the letter indicates the nominal diameter, and the second – the thread pitch in millimeters.

Symbols "LH" indicate that a left-hand thread is used.

Different types of gas cylinders use different standards for threaded connections. This fact must be taken into account when purchasing a gearbox (+)

Some simple devices are equipped with only one connection option. Thus, the popular Type 724B gearbox from the Italian manufacturer “Gavana Group S.p.A” is equipped with a left-hand input thread W 21.8 x 1/14 for a standard metal cylinder. The output is right half-inch internal thread for connecting a bellows liner without any adapters.

A more complex device Type 733 with a pressure regulation function from the same manufacturer already has 6 options for inlet threads: for metal and composite cylinders, for a multi-valve and 3 more connections. This model also has 3 output thread options.

If the input or output threads of the gearbox do not match or liners, then use special adapters. However, the number of such connections must be minimized as they increase the risk of leakage. With standard gas equipment, it is not difficult to find a reducer with a suitable connection format.

Installation and startup procedure

First of all, installation is carried out without connecting it to the cylinder. Then the reducer nut is installed on the cylinder valve and after that the hoses are connected to it.

During this operation, the taps of the gas-consuming appliance, floor-standing gas boiler, the plates must be in the “closed” position. Before attaching the gearbox, to loosen the spring, you must turn out the adjusting screw until it stops.

The type of adjusting screw in the form of a valve is more convenient than a device that needs to be tightened with a screwdriver. However, it is necessary to limit children's access to such a device.

If you use an ordinary flexible hose, then to simplify the procedure, the reducer fitting can be moistened with water. This connection must be secured with a screw clamp. Bellows hoses are connected using a threaded adapter, which is screwed in instead of a fitting.

After installing the system, it is necessary to check for gas leakage with the devices not working. To do this, you need to tighten the gas flow valve (if there is one) and unscrew the adjusting screw to loosen the spring as much as possible.

If, after establishing the pressure difference, the pressure gauge needle shows a gradual increase in pressure, then the reducer cannot be used.

After assembling the entire system, it is necessary to ensure the flow of gas from the cylinder to the reducer and by rotating the adjusting screw to set the required outlet pressure. Then you need to coat the connections from the cylinder to the consuming device with a soapy solution to check them for gas leaks.

If the consuming device is a gas stove, then it is necessary to light the burners sequentially. If there is no flame on each burner blue color, then you need to reduce the pressure on the gearbox.

An orange or yellow burner flame indicates incomplete combustion of the fuel. This leads to significant emissions carbon monoxide, which can be dangerous when using the stove for a long time

When checking the functionality of the burners at minimum heat, there may be a problem with their attenuation. To solve this, you need to either slightly increase the output pressure using the regulator on the gas cylinder reducer, or change the position of the flow screw on the stove itself.

If the problems described above are not typical for all burners, then the jets on the problematic parts of the stove need to be cleaned or replaced. If a gas leak occurs during system startup, the shut-off valve must be completely closed. Then you need to ventilate the room and begin troubleshooting.

Required pressure and volume

The throughput of the reducer must ensure the operation of all devices connected to the system at maximum gas consumption. Some of the problem in determining the required parameters is the use of different units of measurement.

There are two pressure units for gas appliances: pascals (Pa) and bars (br). For a gearbox, the inlet pressure is determined in megapascals (1 MPa = 10 6 Pa) or bars, and the outlet pressure in pascals or millibars (1 mbr = 10 -3 br). The conversion of pressure values ​​between these units of measurement is carried out using the formula:

1 br = 10 5 Pa

The volume of gas passed through the reducer and consumed by the devices can also be represented by two quantities: kilograms and cubic meters.

The input and output pressure parameters of most Russian devices are indicated in pascals. On foreign devices, as a rule, pressure is indicated in bars

The indicators can be compared using data on the density of the main bottled gases(kg/m3) at a temperature of 19 0 C and standard atmospheric pressure:

  • nitrogen: 1.17;
  • argon: 1.67;
  • acetylene: 1.10;
  • butane: 2.41;
  • hydrogen: 0.08;
  • helium: 0.17;
  • oxygen: 1.34;
  • propane: 1.88;
  • carbon dioxide: 1.85.

When recalculating indicators for household stoves, a problem may arise related to the proportion of propane and butane in gas cylinders. Their percentage ratio for different climatic regions is regulated by GOST 20448-90.

Density gas mixture depends on its percentage composition. For example, with a stated ratio of 60% propane and 40% butane, the gas density can be calculated as follows:

q = 1.88 * 0.6 + 2.41 * 0.4 = 2.09 kg/m3.

So, if the maximum gas flow rate of a four-burner stove is 0.84 m 3 /hour, then the reducer must also provide the same volume. In terms of kilograms, this value will be 2.09 * 0.84 = 1.76 kg/hour.

GOST 20448-90 allows a fairly wide range of percentage values ​​of both gases in the propane-butane mixture. This creates some uncertainty when calculating its density

To the calculated value of the maximum throughput of the gearbox you need to add 25%.

This is due to the following reasons:

  • gas mixture parameters may vary depending on the region, time of year and supplier;
  • The density of the gas, which is taken in the calculations, depends on its temperature;
  • there may be a loss of elasticity of the spring, which regulates the volume of the low-pressure chamber in the gearbox, resulting in a decrease in its maximum throughput.

Sometimes, complete with modern equipment, they offer a pressure-tested reducer with a pressure regulator in case of using a propane gas cylinder. This option is optimal from the standpoint of fire safety and system performance.

Design features and maintenance

Trouble-free operation of the system is impossible without regular maintenance and elimination of minor gearbox faults. To do this, you need to know the design of the device and the signs of typical problems.

Diagram of direct and reverse acting devices

According to the type of design, gearboxes are divided into direct and reverse acting devices. In the first case, the excess pressure of the incoming gas is directed to open the valve, in the second - the insufficient pressure in the working chamber of the device.

The design of single-chamber direct and reverse acting gearboxes is simple. The absence of complex components is the reason for a long service life without breakdowns if the product is made with high quality

The basic elements of both types of gearbox designs are the same:

  1. fitting through which gas is supplied;
  2. pressure gauge high pressure, showing the pressure value of the gas supplied to the device;
  3. a return spring that works to close the valve;
  4. high pressure chamber;
  5. a valve whose position regulates the volume of gas passed through;
  6. a safety valve that is triggered when unacceptable pressure is reached in the working chamber;
  7. low pressure pressure gauge, which determines the value of the working gas pressure;
  8. working chamber (low pressure);
  9. an adjusting screw that determines the position of the membrane;
  10. main spring;
  11. working chamber membrane;
  12. pin between the main spring and the bypass valve.

Reverse action gearboxes received greater distribution, since they are more reliable.

There are models equipped with a pneumatic pressure sensor, where instead of the main spring, gas acts on the membrane, ensuring the balance of the system.

As a rule, the adjusting screw is tight. This is due to the prevention of spontaneous changes in position under the influence of forces directed at the membrane. When it rotates clockwise, the volume of the working chamber decreases and the pressure of the escaping gas increases.

In ordinary gearboxes, the unevenness of the output pressure depends on the value of the input pressure and, as a rule, reaches 15-20%. Two-stage (or two-chamber) models are used when it is necessary to maintain the exact pressure of the exhaust gases.

Such gearboxes have a more complex design and slightly larger dimensions. They cost more than their single-stage counterparts. Therefore, if there is no need, their use is inappropriate.

Periodic inspection and service work

For long-term and proper operation In order to maintain the gearbox, it is necessary to carry out simple procedures on it periodically. Once a week you need to record the pressure gauge readings. As the elasticity of the springs decreases, a slow but constant decrease or increase in pressure is possible.

The following actions must be performed once a quarter:

  • Check the tightness of the mating gaskets, safety valve and pressure gauges with the device body. This procedure can be performed by applying soap solution to areas of possible gas leaks.
  • Bleed the safety valve and to prevent it from sticking. To do this, you need to connect the gearbox to the source compressed air and with the outlet closed, increase the pressure until the protective mechanism operates.

Repair and maintenance work that involves physical impact on the device body (including tightening threaded connections) cannot be carried out when the gearbox is under pressure.

This is dangerous due to the release and ignition of flammable gases. In addition, a sudden depressurization of the device may occur with possible physical harm to people in the room.

Gas service specialists are required to conduct an annual technical inspection of equipment, identify non-compliance with safety requirements and issue instructions with an algorithm for eliminating them

Typical faults and their repair

Gas leaks and pressure deviations outside the standard range can be eliminated independently. The first problem may be caused by the following reasons:

  • depressurization of the housing;
  • membrane damage.

The passage of gas through a loose connection of the housing elements can be eliminated by replacing the liner or using silicone sealant. The damaged membrane must be replaced with a similar element from the repair kit.

The reasons for deviation of the pressure value may be:

  • Spring problem. It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox and determine the cause of the malfunction. If the spring is displaced, it must be corrected; if broken, it must be replaced. If there is a loss of elasticity, then it is enough to place a hard gasket under it.
  • Leakage of compressed gas in devices with a pneumatic principle of pressure on the membrane. It is very difficult to fix the problem on your own. The gearbox needs to be replaced.
  • Membrane problem. If a rupture occurs, it is necessary to replace the device assembly, and if there is a loss of tightness at the connection points with the washers, this malfunction must be eliminated by tightening the edges.
  • Bypass valve problem. If the rubber gasket is worn out, it must be replaced. If the movement of the rocker arm is disrupted, the hinges must be replaced.

Considering the low cost of gearboxes, it is advisable to repair it only if a quick replacement is impossible. If, as a result of actions with the device, it was disassembled, then for safety reasons it is necessary to check its tightness during the first start-up.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video #1. Design of a simple gearbox for five-liter cylinders:

Video #2. An example of repair of common gearboxes of the BKO series:

Selecting a gearbox for a system based on liquefied gas must be done taking into account the required parameters of pressure and volume passed through. Simple maintenance and timely elimination of minor faults will allow the device to perform its functions for a long time and efficiently.

Please write comments in the block below. Tell us about the choice of reducer that you installed on the gas cylinder, write about the rules for operating the device. Ask questions, share your opinion and photographs on the topic of the article.