If the data you want to analyze spans multiple sheets or workbooks, you can combine them into a single sheet using the Consolidate command. For example, if you have a separate expense sheet for each regional office, you can use consolidation to create a corporate expense sheet from this data. Such a sheet might contain totals and averages of sales, current inventory levels, and the most popular products throughout the organization.
The consolidation type should be chosen based on the appearance of the sheets being merged. If the data on the sheets is arranged uniformly (row and column names may differ), use consolidation by location. If the sheets for the corresponding categories use the same row and column names (the data may be located differently), use consolidation by category.
Consolidation by location
Consolidation by category
Avg., and the other - Average
Consolidation by location
To consolidate by location, the range of data on each of the source sheets must be in list format with no empty rows or columns.
Consolidation by category
To consolidate by category, the data range on each source sheet must be in list format with no empty rows or columns. In addition, the categories must be named the same. For example, if one of the columns is called Avg., and the other - Average, consolidation will not sum these columns.
I would like to talk about two enough simple ways binding of magazines and books, as well as individual sheets from various magazines with the articles you need, for example, about cooking. Over time, such magazines bound in the form of books will form an excellent library. I'm in the years of stagnation when good books were in short supply, I collected “fiction”, published in the magazines “Technology for Youth” and “Ural Pathfinder”, in which the stories and tales that interested me were published with continuations. I have never seen the binding methods that I want to suggest here anywhere in the literature. Of course, I didn’t come up with them myself, but I picked them up from a specialist from the city of Priuralsk.
How to bind a book at home
Typically, when binding, individual sheets are stacked, in which holes are punched, drilled or pierced, moving away from the edge of the spine, and then the sheets are sewn together using these holes. However, as a result of this technology, some of the text turns out to be difficult to read, especially on those sheets on which the text is located very close to the edge of the sheet on the spine side of the future book.
A book formed from sheets using the technology proposed below is, to some extent, free from this drawback. At the initial stage of bookbinding work, the same operations are carried out in both cases: they fold the sheets into a stack, trim them along the lower and leading edges, the upper edge can be trimmed later. After all, as you know, sheets even from the same magazine, but from different issues, usually do not match in format. The stack is then compressed using a press, vice or clamp. The simplest option there are two clamps smooth boards(two metal corners), tightened on both sides with bolts (Fig. 1). Clamp the stack (from the spine side) in a vice so that the narrowest sheet protrudes from the vice by about 5 mm (see Fig. 1). Then the spine is cleaned with a large file, removing the strongly protruding edges of the sheets, and then transverse grooves are cut into the spine with a hacksaw or jigsaw (the number of grooves is at your discretion) to a depth of 1.5...2 mm. This is what it's all about main feature proposed binding technology. After all, if the sheets are punched or drilled at such a distance from the edge, then the threads threaded into the holes will inevitably break through the edges of the sheets. So you can place the holes from the edge of the block at a distance of at least 1...1.5 cm, which will certainly lead to “capture” of the text.
Having made the cuts, the block (package) is installed with the spine facing up. Next, coat the spine with PVA glue (or bustylate), diluted thinner, so that it penetrates into the spaces between the sheets, as well as into the cuts. Then, pieces of nylon or other strong thread are placed in the cuts so that the ends extend beyond the spine by about 2...3 cm (Fig. 2, a) or (as you like) the spine is pulled together with one long thread (Fig. 2, b). Finally, the entire spine is coated with glue again. When the glue dries, cut off the ends of the threads and make a light cover for the block, that is, simply glue the cover from thick paper and paste the endpapers. (The endpapers are the first and also the last double sheets of a block that connect it to the cover. - Editor's note.) From such a book the sheets will no longer pop out, as they do from cheap store-bought paperback books. The above-mentioned store books that have fallen apart are also strengthened in a similar way. But still, in both cases it is better to make a hard cover instead of a soft cover.
When making a hard cover, a piece of cloth or gauze is glued onto the spine of the block using polyvinyl acetate emulsion (Fig. 3), so that parts of a piece of cloth 2...3 cm wide extend beyond the side edges of the spine. Captals, that is, pieces of finishing material, are glued to the upper and lower edges of the spine. braid with a roll on the edge (bright cloth scraps folded in half are also suitable). However, you don’t have to do it. Next, cut out two cover covers from cardboard. The width of each cover should be equal to the width of the glued block. There are many different options making lids, but I want to offer what I think is the simplest. Having cut out the cardboard covers, I select a beautiful fabric, oilcloth, leaderin, etc. A blank for the book’s clothing is cut out of the binding material, not forgetting to provide 2…3-centimeter margins on the side of the top, bottom and front edges. The distance between the covers is equal to the width of the spine plus 2×8 mm (Fig. 4, a). Between the covers on a piece of material, you can glue a gap - a strip of thick paper or whatman paper (the width of the strip is equal to the width of the block). The lids are thoroughly coated with PVA and glued to the piece of clothing, smoothing it well so that there are no bubbles. Then the edges of the workpiece are wrapped on the covers (Fig. 4, b), glued to them and the finished cover is dried under a press.
We prepare two endpapers, each of which is a white sheet of paper folded in half. We glue one half of the sheet to the lid (Fig. 6), and the other to the outer sheet of the block, and the endpaper is not completely glued to the sheet, leaving a 1 cm wide strip without glue adjacent to the fold of the endpaper.
That's it, the binding is finished, and the book is placed under the press. Of course, I don’t know the professional terms, but it seems to me that I presented everything clearly.
I would also like to suggest a notebook method for binding magazines. It is somewhat different from the traditional one, when holes are formed along the spine edges of the magazines, for example, with a hole punch, and the magazines are tied with a cord. It is clear that in this case part of the text cannot always be read. My notebook method does not have this drawback, since the entire binding is made on the outside of the spine.
First, put all the magazines in a stack and mark the places of future punctures on the spines along a ruler (Fig. 7).
Then they take the last issue of the magazine and, using a large needle, follow the marks and stitch it through the middle, forming three or five stitches (Fig. 8, a). I note that with this firmware, the “native” metal clips of the magazines can even be removed. The next magazine, laid on top, is stitched in exactly the same way, but in reverse side. After each stitching, the thread is tightened, removing any backlash (slack). Having completed the stitching of the second magazine, the thread (with a needle) is tied to the end of the thread protruding from the lower magazine (Fig. 8, b). It is clear that the third magazine is stitched similarly to the first, and at the end of the seam its thread is tied to the seam thread of the second magazine, prying the first stitch of the seam of this magazine with a needle.
For strength, the seam threads of all magazines are knitted at their entry and exit points (see Fig. 7). In principle, such a binder can already be used. But it is better to clamp the stitched stack in a press (vice) and coat the spine with liquid PVA glue.
After drying, a durable block is already obtained. And of course, it is better to make a hard cover for the stack, as described above. It is advisable to trim the edges, but if the magazines are the same, then you don’t have to do this. Otherwise, without training, the cut will turn out crooked.
all materials from the “Ideas for the Master” section
Previous publications:
If you need to print large poster at home without resorting to the services of a plotter - then this article is for you. But how can this be done? We can split our document into a large number of small fragments and print with a home printer on A4 sheets. As a result, we will get a large, almost seamless poster. In this article we will look in detail at two methods. print a poster - without additional software, only using standard tools, and also consider a special program that can print using a simple home printer big poster. As always, the article will detailed instructions how to quickly achieve the desired result. Let's say we have a large document, a picture, a graph, a map of the area - in general, anything from which we need to make a large poster. We will need a printer, a pair of scissors, PVA glue and half an hour of time. If everything is ready, let's get started!
To print a large poster from A4 sheets, you can do without additional software. In standard software The printer has many print settings options.
Among other things, there (in most cases) there is such a function as “poster printing”. It is she who will help us print any document on many A4 sheets. Thus, after gluing the sheets together, we will get a large poster or painting for the wall. If this is exactly the result you are trying to achieve, then let’s look at an example.
Example: How to print a poster from several A4 sheets
Open the picture or document from which you want to make a large poster and press “print” or the keyboard shortcut “Ctrl+P”. You should see a similar menu (see Fig1)
in which you need to select the properties of your printer.
Set the page size and desired sheet orientation (Portrait or Landscape). Next, scroll down a little (in the Page Layout section) you need to find “Poster Printing”. Standard sizes Poster printing is 4 sheets. This means that your image will be divided into four fragments, which the printer will print. After putting these fragments together like a puzzle, you will get a large picture. If the size of 4 A4 sheets does not suit you, click the “Set” button.
Here you can specify a different number of segments into which your image will be divided. And also (very conveniently) you need to check the “Cut lines on the margins” checkbox and on each sheet there will be an edge (Cut) that needs to be trimmed evenly and a field (Paste) on which you need to apply glue and apply the next fragment of our large poster. All settings have been made - we send everything for printing. The result is an almost seamless large poster. If you are satisfied, then we have achieved the desired result using standard means.
But as you can see, there are quite a few settings for printing a poster. That is why there are special programs for printing large posters on A4. They allow you to configure the partition more flexibly. We'll talk about this in another part of the article.
Conference > Chatter > Questions and Answers > Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together?
View full version: Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together?
Is there a way to glue sheets of paper together so that it looks like it's one sheet?
Do not offer tape or regular types of glue.
26-07-2006, 19:14
Wallpaper!!!
Sheets of paper are glued together and it seems that it is one sheet!:D
daughter of Monroe and Kennedy
26-07-2006, 21:17
how are they glued together?
27-07-2006, 01:13
No no and one more time no.
27-07-2006, 01:16
Yes I can... in Photoshop :)
it’s just that a person doesn’t know how to do double-sided printing in order to print normal money 😀
Hare[True]
27-07-2006, 04:28
Bugago!!! let him draw by hand) and at night he buys seeds from his grandmothers)!
I tried it and it didn’t work...
The grandmothers rebelled and a friendly crowd of people shouted: D
You need to press: D
28-07-2006, 00:14
try it with drool! 😀
you can electrify...however, it won’t last long))))
pps better go to work...
young counterfeiter
28-07-2006, 01:22
pasted on a lined wall 😉
read the code and think about how cruel the article is (fake state sign), is it worth serving 20 years for 1000 rubles?
03-08-2006, 23:37
splash - sure! 😀
03-08-2006, 23:55
How should I glue it flat to flat or edge to edge?
07-08-2006, 04:13
Tucks... if this topic was created again about counterfeit money... then I must (again) upset you... DON'T EVEN THINK!
p.s. But actually (the old grandfather’s way) rub garlic with garlic :))))... try it.
Whom to rub with garlic? Counterfeiter?...:rolleyes: :confused:
07-08-2006, 17:41
Yeah... and guess what place:%))))
paper of course!
😀 😀 😀 idiots
I had to glue 2 sheets of A4 paper together to make an A3 sheet - because... from Ovirov’s questionnaire it was necessary to make one from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
The question is no longer relevant
Thank you all for your flattering assessment of my abilities.
question two
If you slap a print from a Canon photo printer onto medium-quality paper, how easy is it to distinguish it from the original (considering that no one has ever seen the original except me?)
Madam, use the correct Russian language so that there are no more offers to rub you with garlic or imprison you.
Well, if you don’t pay special attention, there’s no way
mockingbird
08-08-2006, 13:03
I PRINTED MONEY AND WAS GOING TO GO BEYOND THE CORDON...
08-08-2006, 13:19
the next question will probably be about nitroglycerin
Wow, it's a good business to print money! 😉 share
mockingbird
08-08-2006, 13:49
will you go by train?
08-08-2006, 14:02
— Tell me, why are your dollars more expensive than the exchange rate?
— Handmade. And even at night.
1. Why didn’t you like the tape?
2. Why didn’t you like the glue?
3. How should you glue it together? Two sheets to make one big one or glue them together so that there is one on both sides? =) If it’s big, then the plotter is in your teeth and go! If it’s on both sides, then why is it necessary? Is it really possible to counterfeit money? =) And what do you need to glue?
08-08-2006, 14:04
Understood! Either use a plotter, or do this:
Print out the sheets so that there is nothing on the parts to be glued together (even with tape!) and connect them like wallpaper so that everything fits together.
I can draw a picture to make it easier to understand :)
As an option, you also take carbon paper and a pencil :)
You put these two sheets on A3 format and trace this thing through copying. And then with pencils - the corresponding parts are soft, hard and semi-hard along the ruler.
The Ministry of Foreign Affairs does not accept glued ones =)
Yes, I decided a long time ago that it was easier to forge a seal on the Orov questionnaire than to try to glue the sheets together on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs 😀 😀 😀
Although store shelves are filled with notebooks and notepads for any purpose, finding a truly unique item is not easy. It’s faster and more affordable to make your own notebook. It won't take much time, and as a result you will receive a one-of-a-kind accessory for recording the format you need. This article presents a step-by-step master class on making notebooks with tips and video tutorials.
Tools for making a notebook with your own hands
To make a notebook or diary, first prepare paper for writing. Simple notebook sheets (checked, lined) or landscape paper will do. To cut a large number of sheets evenly for a small notebook, use a stationery knife. You will need the following tools and supplies:
- scissors;
- ruler;
- awl;
- thick needle and strong threads;
- stapler;
- glue, double-sided thin tape or adhesive tape;
- materials for the cover (base cardboard, colored cardboard, fabric);
- decorations (sets for scrapbooking).
How to make a workbook with your own hands?
You can make a notebook with a small number of sheets (up to 10-12) in 2 ways:
Stapling.
- Carefully fold the required number of sheets in half.
- Open the pages in the middle and staple along the fold line.
Usually 2 paper clips are enough, but if the page length exceeds half an A4 sheet, place paper clips at a distance of 5-10 cm between them. The greater the thickness and amount of paper, the larger the paper clips should be.
Stitching.
- Carefully fold the sheets in half.
- Mark with a pencil several pairs of future holes for stitching (the distance between the punctures is 1-3 cm).
- Punch holes with an awl at the marked points (make sure that the hole does not exceed the diameter of the stitching needle - 1-2 mm).
- For thin paper, prepare a needle with a single thread, for thick paper - with a double thread. There is no need to make a knot at the end of the thread.
- Sew the pages through the holes along the fold using a simple needle-first stitch, starting the first stitch from outside(leave the end of the thread hanging 5-10 cm).
The ends of the thread after stitching should be on the outside of the notebook.
- After everything is stitched, pull both ends of the thread and tie it with a strong knot.
If you need a thick notebook with many pages, the usual binding technique is suitable, which is done in two ways:
- Make booklet blanks (each of 3-5 sheets folded in half; the thicker the paper, the fewer sheets).
All books are individually stitched with threads using the above method. Then the blanks are sewn together or glued together.
- Method of simultaneous stitching of blank books and fastening them together with one continuous thread:
- Sew the first piece from bottom to top.
- Without cutting the thread or tying a knot, move on to the second workpiece, only you will sew it from top to bottom, catching the outer stitches of the first booklet with the needle as you go along the seam.
- Having reached the bottom, proceed to the third workpiece, stitching it like the first (from bottom to top), while simultaneously grabbing the stitches of the second book. Once finished, move on to the next workpiece.
- When sewing, pull the thread tighter so that the pages do not dangle and the books fit snugly together.
- Having sewn the last piece, fasten the ends of the thread together with a knot.
If you take colored sheets rather than white sheets, you will get an original notebook with multi-colored sections. You can also experiment with the texture and thickness of the paper. At the end of the work, check that the edges of the resulting book are even. It is most convenient to cut a curved edge using a utility knife along a ruler.
How to make a cover for a notebook?
Bound pages will have an unfinished appearance if not bound. For a thin notebook or a finished spiral bound paper block, cut out two matching sheets of colored cardstock. The cardboard is glued to the first and last pages of the book with glue or double-sided adhesive tape, then decorated.
To cover a thick notebook with a wide spine you need:
- Make 3 base blanks: the front and back of the cover (cut from thick cardboard to the size of the notebook), a piece of cardboard for the spine of the appropriate size.
- Glue all 3 blanks onto one large piece of colored cardboard (fabric or other material that will be the cover) with strong glue or double-sided tape. Fold the edges and corners of the cover material inward and glue it to the base cardboard.
- Glue the first and last pages of the notebook you made to the inside cover. As a result, the base cardboard must be completely hidden (on the outside - by the cover material, on the inside - by the outer pages of the notebook).
- We put the finished notebook with the cover under the press overnight, then decorate it. The design of the cover depends only on your imagination. Use available materials: colored paper of different textures, lace, fabrics, threads, beads, rhinestones, etc.
Video tutorials on creating a notebook at home
After watching the selection of videos presented, you will learn how to make any notebook with your own hands. This activity is inexpensive and accessible even to children, because does not require complex actions. And the exclusive cover, made by yourself, will turn a purchased notebook into original item and will be a wonderful gift for any holiday.
Hello, habrapeople!
I read on Habré about stitching together a book and realized that I’m not the only one interested in the topic. The soul perked up: the proposed method of classical firmware produces a high-quality book, but not everyone can handle the effort and time invested in this labor feat. Plus, you need a lot of skill - no one can make a more or less high-quality book the first time. What is the cost of cutting a block alone - do you really think that at least once in your life you will be able to do this exactly for a block of 200 sheets or more using stationery knife? What if you want to make not just one book a year, but at least 2-3 a week? We would like simpler methods, and preferably no less effective. I'm sharing!
Method 1
If the volume is up to 40 sheets (and that’s already 80 pages!), we sew them together with a simple rotary stapler in the middle of the sheets, making a regular notebook (like a student’s notebook). To do this, we buy a rotary stapler designed for deep staples. Its working part is capable of rotating 90 degrees, and a staple of great depth (not width, but depth) can easily pierce up to 40 sheets. In a few seconds we have a neatly stitched book.
Method 2 (virtually no limitation on book size)
Print the book on A4 paper or smaller. We take a stationery hole punch, and selecting 20-25 sheets from a stack, make holes in them. It is very important here that the holes are at the same distance on all sheets, both from the edge of the sheet and from top to bottom. To do this, you need to have a hole punch with a built-in alignment ruler. Such a hole punch costs exactly the same as without a ruler, but it will allow your future book to look quite neat. We simply insert the sheets with holes obtained in this way into a pre-purchased folder. The whole variety of such folders comes down to the following types: binders on sliders, on ropes, on staples. We select a folder on staples, paying attention to the following:
:: The size of the staple should be slightly larger than you need to insert all the sheets. Sheets should not fit end to end! The pages should turn freely after insertion.
:: The staples should be pulled apart as tightly as possible.
:: When the staples are connected, there should not be the slightest gap between them, otherwise the sheet will not fall out, but will cling when turned over, which is very annoying.
:: It is advisable that the staples be separated by hand - by tearing, or using the tabs at the bottom and top of the folder. Do not buy a folder where the staples are moved apart by a cumbersome mechanism - it will not be convenient to use, and the feeling of a “book” will disappear.
:: It is advisable to choose a soft cover for the folder. Its size must be larger than the sheets placed there. The best cover is made of plastic.
Just insert the sheets into such a folder - and the book is ready. And you don’t need to think that this is primitive: I’ve come across such books published by foreign publishing houses (though the staples are permanent). At first I thought they were just laughing at me. But no - foreigners perceive such “books” as books. Well, for them McDonald's is a restaurant.
Method 3
Buy a notebook for notes suitable size and volume (they come in up to 200 sheets, that’s 400 pages), on a plastic or metal spring, always with clean sheets(no “plaid” or “striped”). Carefully remove the spring (without any tools). You print a book on the received sheets. You put it back. Very carefully compress the spring with your fingers, pressing evenly on each “teeth”. Do not pinch or crush the teeth (otherwise the book will look untidy), the sheets will not fall out. A book of decent quality is ready.
Method 4
We print the book. Using a stationery hole punch, as in method No. 2, we make holes. But now we make a row of 4 holes - 2 higher, 3 lower. Don’t forget to prepare the bottom and top covers in the same way. At a hardware store we buy a device for planting rivets or lurex. Through the holes obtained, we connect the pages and covers using rivets or lurex. If the covers are made of cardboard or semi-cardboard, you need to use a ruler to crimp the cover along the opening line until the book opens for the first time. If the cover is made of plastic, you need to scratch half the depth of the plastic along the opening line with a nail - along this line it will open (it may not be possible to make a neat groove the first time). Of course, such a book will not open “all the way to the spine” - this must be taken into account when printing the contents. It turns out to be a very convenient and beautiful book. With some skill, you can make the cover from a single piece of material - then the “spine” will not be visible from the outside.
Method 5
We buy a binding machine with a plastic spring (this “spring” bears little resemblance to a spring). The machine costs from $30, and it is no more difficult to use than a toaster. Up to 500 sheets can be sewn using plastic springs. There are similar machines for sewing on a metal spring, but they and the springs for them are more expensive, and they will sew you no more than 130 sheets. The resulting books are very convenient to use. The correct name for such machines is “Binder for binding on a plastic (metal) spring.” When purchasing, pay attention to the following: the body and handles must be metal; knives must be turned off individually - the more, the better; there should be adjustment of the distance from the edge; choose a machine designed for the maximum number of pages to be stitched, and for the maximum of simultaneously perforated pages - do not skimp here; all knives must move synchronously and without the slightest snag; the rest, including the manufacturer, is of little importance to the individual user.
Method 6
Let's make real books. “Real” ones come in two types: sewn and glued. Sewn ones are the highest quality, but also the most difficult to manufacture, which means they are not the topic of this article. Glued - the most common, look at yours bookshelf: if the pages of a book in the spine area, under the cover, are connected by a half-millimeter layer of hardened glue, this is it. These are the books, and professional quality, and without any problems we will do it at home. To do this, you will need to buy a thermal binding machine for $50 and hot glue. The machine melts the initially hard hot melt adhesive. After printing and cutting, the block of sheets is inserted inside into the machine and squeezes it. The cover is manually glued onto the finished block of the book. That's all. This method can staple up to 700 sheets (depending on paper thickness).
Method 7
Metal channel binding (metalbind) promises high quality, instantaneous and inexpensive binding of up to 300-600 sheets of A4 80g/sq.m at home. The device, which costs about $200, compresses the block with a metal clamp along the entire block. According to reviews - very reliable. Interesting feature- the bracket can be unclenched and reused up to 10-20 times.
Note:
I tried all these methods (except metalbind) myself. I have a lot of books sewn this way. It's simple, fast, and truly accessible to everyone. Good luck!
Tags: binding, books
On one of the pages of this site a short article was published about how to save active Excel workbook sheets into separate files. It's time to consider the reverse question of how to collect information from different files in general and how to combine multiple files into one workbook in particular. This can be done easily and quickly, but more on that later.
Simultaneous work of users in one workbook
In some cases, several users have to collect or process information simultaneously. Exist different methods allowing you not to transfer a spreadsheet sequentially along a chain from one user to another, but to work in it simultaneously or in parallel. One such method is to provide shared access to a document, where users can simultaneously work with the data in that document.
Another way to speed up the process of collecting or processing data is to divide the workbook into separate sheets and then merge them after custom processing. We have already talked about how you can divide a workbook into separate sheets and save these sheets as separate files. Now let's take a closer look at how to combine them back.
Combining sheets from different workbooks into one
Combining different files into one or certain sheets into one workbook has various solutions. This includes the standard option of copying and pasting sheets into the desired workbook, using macros, and installing additional programs that specialize in merging files, such as MergeExcel. Each of these methods has its pros and cons. For my part, I would like to offer another way to solve the problem of combining sheets from different books into one. Without having to deal with macro code or installing additional programs, you can quickly expand Excel with new capabilities using an add-on called an add-in.
The add-on for merging different files into one is based on a VBA macro, but differs favorably from it in its ease of use. The add-on is easy to connect and is launched with one click of a button displayed directly in the main menu, after which a dialog box appears. Then everything is intuitive, files are selected, sheets of these files are selected, Extra options association and press the "Start" button.
macro (add-in) for combining multiple Excel files into one workbook
The add-on allows you to:
1. With one click, call the macro dialog box directly from the Excel toolbar;
2. select files to merge, as well as edit the list of selected files;
3. combine all sheets of selected files into one workbook;
4. merge only non-empty sheets of selected files into a workbook;
5. collect sheets with a given name into the final book (you can use a mask using special matching characters);
6. collect sheets of selected files with a specific number (index) or range of numbers into one book;
7. collect sheets with a certain value in a given range of cells;
8. set additional parameters for merging, such as:
a) assigning names to the sheets of the merged files;
b) deleting from the book in which the data is being merged its own sheets that were originally in this book;
c) replacing formulas with values (calculation results).
If necessary, the names of the sheets of the generated workbook can be quickly changed using the add-in for automatic sheet renaming.
Combining ranges of values from different sheets of different workbooks on a separate sheet
It is also possible to automatically go through all the workbooks specified in the dialog box, select only the necessary sheets in them, copy user-defined value ranges and paste them on a separate worksheet of the active workbook. In this case, you can choose the method of placing data on the sheet with totals; ranges of values can be located one after the other, both horizontally and vertically. This way you can
A printed publication called a brochure is known to each of us. When you think of a brochure, the first thing that comes to mind is a small book that contains advertising or promotional information. curriculum. The description of the brochure found on the Internet also characterizes it as a printed, not periodical book publication, derived from the French word brocher - to stitch.
The text content of the brochure has departed slightly from the original; today the material filling the brochure is of a reference or advertising nature. The capacity of the brochure and the ability not only to tell about the product, but also to show it, thanks to colorful illustrations, made the brochure one of the most popular advertising media. A reputable company must have in its arsenal not only business cards, booklets, leaflets or catalogs, but also a brochure that has the ability to minimum costs, convey detailed information to a large number of potential clients. A brochure, unlike a booklet or leaflet, inspires confidence; it is pleasant to hold in your hands and flip through the pages. A well-made design, selected and thoughtful text, pleasant paper quality, bright illustrations are able to hold the reader’s attention, but we must not forget about such an important factor on the path to perfection as the way our brochure is bound together. The thickness of the brochure depends on the number of pages, therefore, the fastening must be carefully selected. The main task of a brochure, besides the informational task of course, is not to end up in the waste paper basket, but to last as long as possible.
1 Among the many methods of fastening pages that are popular with customers, the staple method is especially popular. The method is reliable, time-tested, and economical. The option of stapling with a paper clip has been well known to us since childhood; this is how ordinary notebooks were, and continue to be, stapled together. The so-called saddle stitch option, when the ends of a staple or paper clip pierce the middle of the spine fold in two or more places and are secured, tightly fastening the sheets of the product. Another option for stapling with a paperclip is called wheelbarrow stitching, here the staple pierces the fold of the spine from the front side, and the ends of the staples are clamped, not inside the brochure, but on its reverse side. Both options for staple binding have their advantages and disadvantages. If the customer chooses the “stitch” fastening method, then the product fastened in this way will not open enough. Which of course will affect its overall appearance and the service life of the brochure. But if the ordered brochure has a small number of sheets, not exceeding 60 pages, then the method of binding using a paper clip fits better, like no other. You can also stitch a block of a product using threads; this stitching method is used if the product is covered and contains a large number of sheets. The sheets are joined and stitched with thread, and then the cover is attached to the product using hot glue.
2 A brochure with a large number of pages and a soft cover can be bound using the KBS method, which means adhesive seamless fastening. A brochure bound this way looks great. A small disadvantage of this type of binding is the same impossibility of placing the brochure open, and since the brochure also contains illustrations in addition to text, difficulties with full viewing cannot be avoided. The service life of a brochure made with the help of KBS is several years, and all this time the pages of our brochure can be opened constantly, without fear of damaging it appearance any damage. Despite the fact that with the help of KBS, the brochure has a rather solid appearance, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that not all materials are suitable for this method of binding. Some types of thick paper, such as coated paper, are difficult to glue, in which case it is necessary to choose another, more suitable method.
3 Securing a brochure with a spring is rightfully considered the most effective and elegant. The spring-loaded brochure is attractive and inspires confidence. Typically, the spring that holds the brochure sheets together is metal or plastic. The cover of such a brochure can be either soft or hard, made using various design materials. Using embossed cardboard can easily make your brochure stand out from others. This brochure, fastened with a spring, has the most complete spread, requires replacement pages, and will serve the benefit of your campaign longer than others. In addition, spring-loaded brochures are distinguished by their ability to have both a minimum and a maximum number of pages.
4 A close relative of the spring brochure binding, this is a variant of the bolt/ring brochure. The color range in case of choosing such binding is more extensive, and fan binding will give the brochure an original look.
In any case, which option of binding method for the brochure you would not prefer, remember that the last of the printing manufacturing processes, of course, gives the brochure a finished look, but primarily serves for convenient and long-term use, while delighting customers with its appearance.
The assistance of MoscowBrand printing house specialists in the development and production of brochures, detailed information, competent and comprehensive advice will help you with your choice, ensuring excellent quality and low cost.