If you decide to make scaffolding, you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will get a disposable structure that can be made by anyone who knows how to work with wood, and in the second, it will be reusable, but also quite easy to make. In this article we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal (profile pipes) and also from wood (boards), demonstrate diagrams, photos and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is predominantly used for the manufacture of scaffolding, they may differ in the method of fastening, and accordingly have different functional elements in their design. So, let's look at the main types of forests.
The component elements are connected by a special wedge fixation. Scaffolds of this design are highly reliable. They are able to withstand quite heavy loads. At the same time, they are easy to use and can be quickly assembled and disassembled. The use of wedge scaffolding during construction and lifting is especially important heavy materials and nodes.
The main element of this design is a rigidly mounted frame. They are mainly used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected to horizontal posts and diagonal braces thanks to node connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolding is its low cost. Their construction does not require large investments.
In these scaffoldings, the connection point, as is obvious from their name, is the pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular among builders, as they are very easy to assemble and disassemble directly on site. construction site. It often takes a day or even two to assemble the scaffolding. In this case, assembling the pin scaffolding will not take much time.
If the object where repair work is carried out has a complex configuration, then clamp scaffolding is great solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, height and size play an important role. working area, distance between tiers and pitch of racks. All this is selected individually for each facility.
We invite you to familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from boards. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Lay out 4 racks or boards parallel to each other on a flat area. Their size must immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- The racks are connected to each other by horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will later be laid.
- Place the 2 frames made horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- Lay the flooring from the boards on the horizontal ties and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railings to the posts and secure the stairs.
If it is necessary to lengthen the scaffolding structure, connect several similar sections of boards together. The boards are placed on the support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill holes to prevent the boards from splitting.
Design
All forests consist of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they give spatial strength to the structure);
- flooring lintels;
- a flooring made of boards on which a person will stand;
- stops (to create stability of the scaffolding and prevent it from falling away from the wall);
- a fencing element (so that a person standing on the flooring does not fall down);
- ladder (stepladder) for climbing required level forests
Made of wood and boards
You can find quite a lot of advice on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolding itself. To avoid getting confused in all this “diversity,” try to focus on the following values:
Let's get started:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or timber 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fencing 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instructions
We invite you to view a number of photographs on the topic of how to make wooden scaffolding yourself:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height you need scaffolding.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) – profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- Make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements – 2 meters;
- for horizontal elements connecting the racks from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"For" and "against"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small scaffolding, but a rather bulky structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can be disassembled later, but the work is labor-intensive, and the boards, if you don’t need them in the near future, also need to be stored somewhere. Do not forget that wooden scaffolding is assembled using nails, not screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when working on scaffolding, the wood often gets dirty with mortar or paint.
Self-made metal scaffolding can not only be disassembled, but also rented out in the future.
Secondly, non-prefabricated scaffolding is designed to work maximum at the second floor level (from the ground). Operation at higher altitudes homemade scaffolding becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is required quite rarely (only for repairing the facade of a building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for installing siding). Accordingly, their weight increases, and moving homemade wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests at the stage of designing a house.
If facade works If you don’t plan to do it yourself (but are going to hire a construction team), then you don’t have to think too much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their own scaffolding and scaffolding.
However, upon completion of construction (and after some time has passed), scaffolding may be needed for small façade works. repair work. Can this be avoided?
Certainly. And first, make sure that the facade of your house does not require repairs for many years. To do this, it is enough to use it when building walls. facing brick. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and in a fairly wide range of colors.
But others facing materials(such as siding, plaster and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
Photo
The photographs show various designs scaffolding:
Schemes
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
Difficult to perform without loess construction work, especially if they need to be produced at high altitudes. The design will help you safely climb onto a hill, do everything you need, and place materials nearby that will help you in your work. It is inconvenient to rent construction scaffolding from a profile pipe, since it will constantly drain funds, which some may not like. Alternatively, you can make loess yourself. They will be made in a way that is convenient for the owner and will provide the ability to rise to the desired height.
Types of loess
There are several types of loess that you can make yourself. Suitable for manufacturing metal pipes, can be added to the board design. If you make everything out of wood, it will be much cheaper than metal ones. But such installations will not be able to withstand significant loads; there is a possibility of breakage with a large weight installed on them. 
In terms of time, a metal frame will take longer to complete, but gradually the costs of its production will be covered by reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled and rebuilt. In addition to wooden ones, there are other types of loess:
1. Clamps. As a priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. Assembling such products is problematic, but there is an option to bend them as required.
2. Wedge. A significant amount of mass can be placed on them.
3. Pin. They are quite simple to assemble and disassemble. They will be used for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.
4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness and ease of assembly. They can be collected very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg per meter of base surface. They are most often used in construction because they are easy to make with your own hands.
Important:DIY construction scaffolding from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended for two people to stand on them.
Making loess
Making loess from pipes is not at all difficult. To do this, you need to select the required elements, combine them into correct sequence. To make the work go faster, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. Afterwards you will only need to do certain things with them and connect them into one structure.
Materials for making loess
To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made from boards. It can be made of aluminum, but it will withstand less load. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm; it is most convenient to make it about a meter wide. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In terms of height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.
Before you start assembling the structure, you need to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:
- Profiles are 1.5 m long and 3x3 cm in cross section. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
- Pipes with a diameter of 15 mm, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
- Profile for connecting elements. The section is 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
- Ladder. You can insert a ready-made one, but if not, you can also execute it from the profile.
- Bolts, nuts and washers that will secure each element. Self-tapping screws to connect wooden parts with.
To work, you will need to use a drill, a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, and welding. Connections can be made by making necessary elements carving The earth at the installation site must be well compacted to avoid distortions during the manufacturing process. If work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The ground under the loess will be strong, and there will be no danger for people at heights.
It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of parts leads to a strong tilt of higher elements and construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably and efficiently.
Collection of loess
Construction scaffolding is assembled in the following order:
1. First, you need to cut the blanks: diagonal parts holding the structure together, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened to about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.
2. 2 racks located vertically are connected using spacers. They must be strictly horizontal.
3. The horizontal parts are connected using ties, at a distance of approximately 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.
4. The connecting parts are secured.
5. Holes for bolts must be made on the supports.
6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. The diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.
It makes sense to paint the scaffolding so that it lasts longer. If you plan to frequently disassemble and reassemble the structure, you can connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of 2.5x2.5 cm profile is inserted into them and the elements are welded. 
Many people wonder whether it is worth making scaffolding themselves. On the one hand, this design is bulky; you will have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can simply disassemble the parts, but this will take a long time. Wooden loess is connected only with nails, not with self-tapping screws. The boards will be intact after work; they can be used for other needs.
On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height will be at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.
During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often necessary - it is not necessary to make drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.
Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repairs
Scaffolding is used very widely in construction and repair. Even ordinary DIY wall plaster without them it is not easy to carry out, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes completely a daunting task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily knocked together trestle stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.
But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement of everything you need along the facade or wall being repaired. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs is the main benefit of scaffolding, homemade or purchased. Performance construction labor when using scaffolding, it increases several times - so their cost can be entered in the column “payment for speed and convenience of repairs.”
Any scaffolding structure must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and consumables. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a ready-made, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such goods is quite diverse.
Classification of scaffolding
The term “scaffolding” itself is associated with the historical experience of decorating facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter “shelves” were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to descendants only its name and the principle of construction.
Modern options are based on a frame and are designed with reusable use in mind. Structurally, scaffolding can be made in the following options:
- Pin scaffolding – from steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. They are heavy and clumsy, requiring considerable time to assemble and move - but at the same time very durable. For example, stone or brickwork It’s best to do it with them. Pin scaffolding can be loaded with large number heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
- Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and/or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a durable frame. May have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plastering or balcony siding– when the weight of building materials is small, and the work involves rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
- Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. They can withstand heavy loads and are still mobile. The fastening units are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
- Clamp scaffolding is a universal structure with low load capacity for the repair and restoration of curved facades;
- Suspended - well-known “cradles”, with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. A structure can also be suspended between two stationary scaffolds without support from the ground.
Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only available for purchase; their independent “production” is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with your own hands if you have the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.
Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step-by-step instructions
Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material– the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are completely doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.
How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood
The work will require several types of wood. The load-bearing supports are made of timber measuring 10x10 cm (a smaller cross-section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from the scaffolding). Horizontal decking is made from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm thick. Fence slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms must be free of knots and cracks, and it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.
Step 2: Planning the Frame
The end sides of wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not be an obstacle when repairing walls.
In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports made of 10x10 cm timber as solid rather than composite ones - then the strength of the multi-story structure will be higher. The minimum permissible width of homemade wooden scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise there is a high risk of the scaffold overturning during work. To work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a plane, a drill and a screwdriver.
Step 3: Frame Construction
Two beams no more than 6 meters high are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two are placed side by side in exactly the same way. The upper part of the beams should converge slightly upward for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding down a convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center-to-center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then at the top it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapezoids.
The timber sidewalls are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted with inside. In general, wooden scaffolding self-made can have no more than three “assembly floors”, so there will be only four sidewalls made of timber. Three correspond to the levels of the scaffolding, and the bottom one serves for strength; it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.
Step 4: Making a volumetric frame
To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolds, you will need an assistant (or better yet, two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the accuracy of the docking will certainly suffer. The side cross members are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The point is that sustainable scaffolding should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required convergence angle is small, otherwise an inconvenient gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Let's say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be sufficient.
Having installed the wooden sides vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side cross members with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and stored in a shed or garage.
Step 5: Final and Additional
All that remains is to nail the decking boards and fencing above each platform to the cross beams. On the sides of the scaffolding you can add additional crossbars that will serve as ladders. It is also useful to make a knot above each support in the form of a retractable pin for attaching the scaffolding to the earthen soil - on flat surfaces it is removed, and the entire structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.
During the construction or finishing of a house, you cannot do without scaffolding. To build them, you don’t have to turn to professionals; you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second ones can be used a large number of times. Next, we’ll look at how to properly build both types of scaffolding with your own hands.
What does the structure consist of?
Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly determine what elements they consist of. So, the design includes:
various braces that give rigidity to the structure;
floor crossbars;
boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;
supports that will give stability;
fencing;
staircase for ascending to the floors of a structure.
A homemade structure – isn’t it dangerous?
It’s very easy to make scaffolding yourself, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable design, but quite a voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if it is disassembled, the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. It’s good if the house can be heated with wood, then it can be useful, but if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. With metal scaffolding, everything is somewhat simpler - they can be rented out, but again, if there is a demand for them.
It is also worth noting that the use of hand-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. The construction of scaffolding, especially of wood, at a higher height can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction? It might be easier to rent. Having assessed all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings where not only appearance design, but also indicates the amount of material required.
Installation of a wooden structure
In order to create a structure made of wood, you will need to prepare the following materials:
wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;
boards for the floor and crossbars 5 centimeters thick;
wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;
In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order for it to be safe to walk on, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands you need:
use braces to fasten four posts together;
on required height secure the crossbars;
fasten the boards that serve as the floor to the crossbars;
attach boards that will act as a fence;
install supports;
fix the ladder in the right place;
check the drawings.
All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with the help of nails and a hammer (see video).
Metal structure
A structure made from a profile pipe is more reliable than a structure made from boards. When building a structure, it is necessary to take into account that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:
pipe for supports cross section 3x3 centimeters and 1.5 meters long;
pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;
pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;
the floor is made of boards about 5 centimeters thick and approximately 2 meters long;
So, in order to create a structure from a profile pipe you need:
cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter and for vertical elements of 2 meters;
cut two-meter braces at each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;
connect two supports to each other with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be approximately 30 centimeters;
secure the connecting elements;
drill holes for bolts on the braces and supports;
assemble the structure from a profile pipe to the end;
clean the structure and paint it;
check the available drawings.
How to do without forests?
It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this does not happen, what is the right thing to do? If the construction or finishing work of the building is carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every team should have such structures. If they have a chance self-construction lost or no more work is planned where they might be needed, the structure can easily be rented.
But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, everything finishing work immediately need to be carried out with the highest quality possible. For example, it is better to use facing bricks or other similar materials as finishing materials, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.
During the construction of the second (and third or even fourth) private houses and cottages, special structures are used - scaffolding. They allow you to work safely at high heights – where ladders cannot be used. Most often, wood is chosen for the manufacture of scaffolding - a material that is more affordable and easier to process. Although it is possible to use a metal profile for this.
Material selection
Choosing between metal and wooden structures, you should know:
- to assemble metal scaffolding you will need special equipment, including welding machine. In addition, the design itself will require more manufacturing time and will be more expensive;
- It is easier to work with wood, and the tools used to construct such scaffolding can usually be found on any farm. However, the strength of such forests is lower. And it is dangerous to use them for the construction of high structures.
As a rule, every owner of a private house who takes part in construction can make wooden scaffolding with his own hands. To build the same metal structure, sometimes you have to turn to specialists. Although when building a house of several floors, outside help will be required in any case.
Structural elements of scaffolding
The number of popular schemes and methods for making scaffolding from metal profiles or boards reaches several dozen. However, they all consist of the same elements:
- Racks located vertically and taking the load from materials and people located on the scaffolding and transferring it to the ground;
- Ties designed to increase the rigidity of the frame and placed diagonally;
- Lintels on which flooring boards are laid. They must be positioned strictly horizontally (checked with a level);
- The flooring itself is one of the main parts of the structure, occupying a large volume and, to save money, is made of thick boards attached to each other.
In addition to the main elements, scaffolding drawings must include railings to prevent workers from falling from a height. Special persistent slopes will help to avoid the structure from tipping over. And ladders are used to climb to and from the work site.
Wooden structures
Before assembling wooden scaffolding with your own hands, be sure to carry out a diagram on which you must indicate several basic dimensions:
- height, the maximum value of which for wooden scaffolding should not exceed 6 m;
- the distance between supports is usually chosen to be no more than 2.5 m;
- flooring width. For ease of use, this size is taken within the range of 80–100 cm.
The optimal height of the first level of the flooring is about half a meter. This feature provides the maximum level of comfort for builders whose hands are located 30–40 cm below chest level during bricklaying or other work. The second flooring is placed at a height of 2 meters, the third - about 4 meters. Markings may vary depending on the size of the building itself.
When starting to build wood scaffolding, you should purchase the appropriate materials and fasteners. These include timber with a cross-section of 100 x 100 mm or boards with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of at least 100 mm. For railings, spacers and ties, you can use a 30mm edged board. And for flooring they pick up wooden elements thickness not less than 40 mm. 
Important: When choosing fasteners, you should know that nails will cost less, but will increase the time of scaffolding construction. In addition, they are more difficult to remove when disassembling the structure. Using self-tapping screws will shorten the process, but will make the structure less durable. Therefore, nails are chosen for low structures, and self-tapping wood screws for long and tall scaffolding.
Construction stages
Scaffolding is made from boards and timber in several stages:
- Laying out the elements of the future structure on a flat surface and checking their compliance with the height of the scaffolding;
- Connecting racks using horizontal jumpers;
- Installation of two already assembled frames side by side and securing them using horizontally and diagonally positioned tie boards;
- Laying wood flooring on top of horizontal ties, with the boards fastened to the lintels.
Now all that remains is to secure the railings and fix the stairs, with the help of which the ascent and descent will be carried out. With a large building length, the structure is extended and can consist of a different number of sections - from two to three or four. The frames are connected to each other with boards.
Should know: When assembling wood scaffolding using nails, it is advisable to pre-drill holes for fasteners. This will increase assembly time but will prevent the boards from splitting.
Scaffolding made of metal profiles
To assemble metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will have to perform approximately the same sequence of actions, choosing standard height and the width of the structures. And the only serious difference is the adapters used to increase the number of floors of the structure. In addition, some of the elements are connected to each other by welding. 
Before construction begins metal structure, the preparation of the following materials is required:
- Profile pipes of the appropriate section (30 x 30 or 40 x 40 mm), from which the racks will be made. The length of the segments is from 1 to 1.5 meters;
- Thin-walled pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, used for the manufacture of screeds. Each length is 2 meters;
- Pipes (25 x 25 or 35 x 35 mm) for support bearings and adapters. Length – 2 m.
Railings are most often made from the same profile pipes, as adapters. And to create thrust bearings they also use metal plates up to 4 mm thick. To connect the diagonal ties to each other and to the main scaffolding structure, a sufficient number of bolts and nuts are provided.
Assembly of the structure
The process of constructing metal scaffolding begins with the following steps:
- Fixing scaffolding posts using an assembly surface (as a rule, OSB sheets are used for this purpose);
- Welding of horizontal jumpers;
- Inserting pipe adapters into the upper ends of the metal supports and fixing them by welding.
After removal from the assembly panel and turning the scaffold 90 degrees, the structure is again attached to the OSB sheet. The edges of the pipes that will be used for the diagonal braces are flattened and prepared for joining by drilling holes in them. The scaffolding ties are fastened together in the middle and placed on the posts, then secured with bolts and nuts.
At the next stage of assembly, holes for fasteners are drilled on the railings and supports and the thrust plates are welded to the pipes. The assembled structure is installed in a vertical position, and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes. Wooden scaffolding is laid on the horizontal lintels, which should preferably be additionally secured with steel corners.
When attaching ties, it is recommended to install horizontal and diagonal elements on different sides of the frame. If the assembly of the second tier of scaffolding is carried out simultaneously with the construction of the third, additional holes should be drilled in the racks for bolting the thrust slopes. And when building scaffolding in a horizontal direction, the sections are attached to each other with the same bolted connections.
Metal scaffolding “in use”