How to crash into an existing sewer. Methods of tapping into sewer pipes. Ways to insert into the system

There are sometimes moments when a tie-in must be made in sewer pipe an existing system in order to organize, for example, a drain from such a household appliance as a washing machine. How to solve this seemingly simple problem?

You can cut the pipe and insert a tee. But this is how you can approach the issue if the pipes of the existing sewerage are metal. If the pipes are modern - plastic, this method is not applicable. How to be in this case? Worth the hassle to figure it out various ways tapping into the sewer, and only then do something.

Various ways to tie into the sewer system

Tapping with a tee

When tapping through a tee, the first step is to cut the pipe and cut a piece of it, if possible, as accurately as possible to the size of the tee that will be installed in this place. It should be noted that the tee in this case will be put on pipe sections in the form of a coupling. Then it is necessary to very carefully weld the junction of the pipe and the tee. This work should be entrusted to an experienced welder.

If it is supposed to be inserted into a system consisting of plastic pipes, one pipe is replaced by two small segments, between which a piece of pipe is placed, equipped with a pipe, just designed to connect additional equipment. In this case, the main problem may be the connection with the sockets into which the pipes are inserted.

Cutting into a plastic pipe

There are ways to cut into a sewer pipe made of any material without having to cut it. To perform such an insert into a system consisting of plastic pipes is quite within the power of many. For this you need:

Prepare a piece of pipe with a nozzle of the desired diameter.
Cut the workpiece: leave the branch pipe itself and the part of the pipe from which it departs, in such a way that it is possible to reliably block the insertion point into the main pipe.
Drill a hole in the pipe. The diameter of this hole must exactly match the diameter of the nozzle.
Lubricate the inner surface of the resulting flange and the outer surface of the pipe around the hole with sealant.
Place the flange on the pipe, tighten it firmly around the edges using clamps. The clamps should not be tightened very tightly, but carefully, until the sealant appears from under the flange. Excess sealant - remove.

Pro tip:

If you are tapping into a sewer system with low water pressure, the use of clamps is not necessary. In this case, it is quite possible to get by with electrical tape, firmly connecting the pipe and flange with it.

Insertion into a metal pipe

If you have to make a tie-in into a metal pipe, it is easier, of course, to use a ready-made tee of a slightly larger diameter, sawing off a part without a pipe from it. But sometimes you have to prepare a suitable flange yourself:

To do this, use a pipe with an inner diameter that matches the outer diameter of the pipe to which you want to connect.
The pipe is cut lengthwise, a hole is drilled in it and a branch pipe is welded.
The work of welding such a flange and pipe must be carried out by a professional. If it is impossible to carry out high-quality welding, clamps and sealant can be used.

The insert can be carried out in any system - plumbing, heating, sewerage. The main thing before you break through the sewer pipe to connect the outlet, make sure that there is no pressure in the liquid.

Means for tie-in and methods of their application

Connection to an existing sewerage system may be needed at any time. Purchasing a washing machine dishwasher, the device of an additional sink, an additional faucet or another heating pipe - all this is the reason for inserting into the general house sewer system.

Featured on modern market a huge selection of different adapters (flanges, adapters) allows you to find optimal solution each specific problem and make a connection to the internal system sewers in several ways:

Application of adapters. Adapters with a diameter of 50 mm are mounted on pipes having a diameter of 100-110 mm.
To connect to pipes with a diameter of 32-40 mm, tie-ins with a diameter of 19 to 22 mm with plastic fittings are used.

To make a quality tie-in using the purchased adapter, you need to follow a few fairly simple steps:

Shut off the water in the sewer pipe.
Drill a hole in the pipe with a crown of suitable diameter, put on a drill.
When using an adapter with bolts, put it on the pipe, tighten the bolts.
When inserting without bolts, degrease the surfaces, attach the insert and tighten the nut.

Pro tip:

To avoid leaks, you can additionally use a sealant to seal the adapter.

A well-made tie-in into the sewer pipe will avoid the need to repair the entire system, as well as practically without special efforts add an additional sewer outlet of any newly purchased plumbing and other type of appliance.

In some cases, it is necessary to make a connection to the sewer section of a separate outlet. The specifics of the process depend on the material, the available accessories and the type of system. Note that it is necessary to make a tie-in into the sewer pipe only in accordance with the technology used, only in this case it is possible to guarantee the quality of the connection and its long-term operation without the need for repair. If you do the work in accordance with the requirements and instructions, this is quite within the power of a beginner and a person without experience.

Cutting into a metal pipe

Depending on the time of laying the sewer, the materials used may differ. Old sewer systems are made of metal carriers, the connection to which is carried out in a physical way. In other words, the metal is cut and an additional outlet is added by welding (including cold welding) or through a tee.

This is the so-called economy option for systems that are in normal condition. If the area is severely damaged by rust or dirty, it makes sense to change the entire pipeline along with the connection.

From the quite obvious advice, let's get down to business - we will reveal the question of how a tie-in is made into a cast-iron sewer pipe. In practice, it is not uncommon not only to crash, but to connect the pipeline with the metal-plastic section. In practice, the reliability of such work leaves much to be desired. At the same time, materials are proposed with which you can effectively join metallic materials and "plastic". Let's talk about connecting to the sewer pipe.

For these purposes, a mortise clamp is used, which is an adapter between a diameter of 110 mm and the selected size. Mortise clamps are sold in a wide range and allow you to go to almost any diameter. The accessory is selected depending on the type of sewage, there are models that allow you to cut under pressure.

For household needs a regular flanged version will do. It securely holds the connection and does not require preventive examination. If site repair is also required, use an overlay model.

Instruction:

Remove rust from the area.
Drill a hole of the required diameter.
Install the clamp.
Tighten the nuts simultaneously and evenly.

A similar job can be done with a coupler saddle. This is a reliable, albeit more expensive mount. If you do not want to incur costs, make an insert with the transition to "plastic". At the same time, mortise couplings and saddles will provide a high-quality and most durable insert that does not require repair during the entire service life. They are applicable, including for wells.

There are products of Russian and foreign manufacturers on the market. The recommendations of many craftsmen relate to Jimten slip-on couplings, which provide required quality connections at a fairly low price.

Insert into a cast-iron pipe with a transition to a section of plastic

The sequence of work on connecting to a cast-iron pipe with a quality transition to new site:

How to connect to systems standard sizes, the diameter of the sewer section, respectively, 110 mm. Drilling a hole in this case with a “crown” is laborious, so we recommend marking and cutting crosswise with a grinder, then remove the internal connection segments. The hole will turn out in the form of a rhombus, but this does not interfere quality performance work.
Further, fastening is done using unigum mastic or similar, a layer up to 5 mm thick, 3-5 cm wide is applied around the hole.
If there is no jimten drain, it can be cut out of a plastic sewer element with a 50 mm adapter.
The cuff is attached to the mastic. Tighten it with clamps.

The proposed method provides a reliable and aesthetic solution to the problem of the transition between the old and new sections of the PVC sewer. It is recommended by experts for open areas, for example, to connect with a sun lounger in the basement. Such a connection should be checked periodically, although the materials used guarantee a durable fastening that does not require additional maintenance.

Inserting into the plastic area and fixing with glue

Instructions for connecting to PVC:

Determine the center of the hole with the adapter you will be using. Note that inserts are often made with a smaller diameter than classic size sewerage 110 mm. For washing machines, bathtubs, washbasins, 50 mm is enough.
Using a special nozzle with a diameter of 50 mm, make a hole with a drill.
Clean up the hole with a paper cutter or other sharp object.
Be sure to carefully remove dust and dirt afterwards.
Degrease the surface with adhesive sealant.
Mark the contours of the lining on the base with a pencil.
Apply special adhesive sealant to the outer surface in two passes.
Also apply adhesive sealant to the part, along the contour with inside.
Connect the pipeline and the part together.
Secure temporarily with masking tape.
Apply glue to the inner surface of the outlet in the glued part, coat well with a layer of 2-3 mm.
Insert the knee-adapter to which the lead will be attached.
Remove excess glue.
After the glue dries, remove the adhesive tape and finish mounting the outlet to the sewer from the device.

Connection to the sewer below ground level

To insert the sewerage of an additional outlet into the well below the ground level, as in the photo, a different method is used, namely tees at 45 and 90 degrees. Such a connection will allow you to connect to the sewer summer kitchen or bath.

For work you will need:

tee with the desired slope and branch diameter;
coupling with which it will be connected to the pipeline.

Instruction:

Make a well to the junction, under the installation site you need a recess into which the liquid will drain.
Make marks according to the size of the tee.
Cut the pipeline with a grinder.
Bulgarian process slices.
Clean off dirt and shavings.
Treat the edges of the coupling with sealant and put it on the pipeline.
Put on the tee and slide on the sleeve, make a branch connection, be sure to treat all joints with adhesive-sealant.

Connection to the plastic sewer with a tee at 45 or 90 degrees, see the video:

You can see in detail how this is done in the video. Connection to a cast-iron pipe is carried out using a 110 mm mortise coupling. The Jimten brand also has sewer drains that allow you to crash and switch to PVC without the hassle without cutting off the sewer section. This is one of a limited number of brands that produce such devices.

Sometimes a situation arises when an additional tie-in to the sewer pipe is needed. If you have minimal plumbing skills, you can do it yourself. Consider how to crash into a sewer pipe (including a riser) in simple ways.

Connection to the existing sewer system of an apartment or house of a plumbing fixture ( washing machine, sink, washbasin, etc.). In this case, the connection to the riser or pipe is carried out through a branch pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
When remodeling in an apartment or adding a second floor to a house, it may be necessary to connect a toilet in a new location. It is carried out through a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm into the riser;
Insertion of the sewage system of a built house into the central sewerage system. The tie-in diameter in this case can be either 50 or 110 mm.

Connection Features

In the first case (see above), a connection is made to the internal sewer system. Restricting drain drains at runtime installation work causes no difficulty.

In the second case, it is worth negotiating with neighbors who have a joint riser with you to limit the use of the sewer system at an agreed time.

In the third - you need to negotiate with utilities to stop the water supply at a set time. Utilities reserves the right to issue you an invoice in case of requests by residents to recalculate utility bills.

After tapping, the new inlet is plugged before being connected to it.

Insertion methods

If it is necessary to embed a pipe of a smaller diameter into a larger one, a special adapter is used - an adapter of 50 mm. And if the diameters are equal, instead of a straight section of the system, a tee or cross is installed. Connection methods are different for horizontal and vertical (drain riser) located sections of the system, and they also depend on the materials from which they are made.

Installing the adapter

Installation on cast iron and plastic sewer pipes. The sequence of actions is as follows:

In the sewer pipe, you need to make a hole with a diameter of 50 mm. In a plastic or asbestos pipe, this can be done with a core drill. And for tapping into cast iron, you may have to use gas cutting. If the pipe is horizontal, the hole is made in its upper part;
The edges of the hole, in order to avoid blockages in this place, are cleaned from burrs or rust;
The place where the adapter will be installed is coated with sealant;
The adapter is installed in the hole and secured with bolts or clamps.

Insertion into a vertical pipe of the same diameter

The work is done as quickly as possible. Stock up on a bucket to prevent sudden drains, wear work clothes.

Note. If it is not possible to make a tie-in next to the existing connecting socket, then an adapter sleeve is installed to connect to the shear. When marking the cut out part, you will need to add half the height of this coupling to the cutout.

For tapping into the riser, it is better to use a plastic oblique tee. This makes it easier to clean the system in case of blockage. Oriented against the direction of flow Wastewater. Such tees are available for both plastic and cast iron pipes.

The sequence of operations when connecting a tee or cross is as follows:

We mark the stand. The length of the part to be cut must be equal to the height of the compensator;
Cut off part of the pipe. We cut plastic with a hacksaw, cast iron with an angle grinder (grinder).

Be careful not to hit the cast iron pipe with a chisel or hammer to avoid cracking this brittle metal. Then we put a bucket on the upper part of the riser to prevent draining from forgetful neighbors, having previously fixed the overhang to the wall;

We clean the cuts from burrs or rust, remove the external chamfer;
Lubricate the joints with soapy water or cream. To avoid cracking of rubber seals, do not use machine oils for lubrication;
We put on a compensator on the upper part, on the lower part a tee or a cross (and before that, a coupling, if necessary). We upset the compensator in a tee (cross);
Lubricate the joints of the plastic parts with sealant. Joints with a cast-iron system are sealed with a cable, a graphite gland or a cement mortar without sand.

Insertion into a horizontal pipe of the same diameter

The sequence of connecting to the pipe both 50 mm and 110 mm is not much different from the above:

We cut out with an angle grinder (grinder) or a hacksaw a part with a length equal to the height of the tee minus the socket;
We clean the cuts from burrs. On the plastic part inserted into the socket of the tee, remove the outer fez;
Lubricate the joints with soapy water or cream;
We connect the parts of the inset. If necessary, we use an adapter;
We seal the joints.

That's all the connection to a 50 mm plastic pipe.

Make a cut in sewer riser or a drain with a diameter of 50 mm is not so difficult. The most important thing is accuracy during all stages of work.

To connect another pipeline to an existing sewer system, you can use different methods. Tapping into the sewer will be performed differently depending on some factors that will be discussed in this article.

Insertion into a horizontal sewer pipe

This situation is the most common: it is necessary to connect another plumbing device to a pipeline made of a 50 mm plastic pipe. Perhaps the best answer to the question of how to crash into a sewer riser is to disassemble the sewer pipe and then connect the tee. Also, usually replacing a cast-iron sewer with a plastic one involves inserting into the system.

The algorithm for performing work will look like this:

first you need to disassemble the existing pipeline;
then the whole pipe section is cut into two parts, as a result of which the pipe must be shortened by the length of the tee, minus the length of its sockets;
then the pipeline is assembled using rubber cuffs.

After all these actions, an additional entrance will appear in the sewer pipe, through which you can connect any plumbing. It is advisable to use an oblique tee to implement this option, the use of which reduces the likelihood of blockages within the system.

The solution described above is far from suitable for all situations: for example, if the pipe is non-separable or cast iron, then tie-in into the sewer will be complicated in this case. It will be necessary to solve such a problem by drilling a hole in the pipeline, the dimensions of which will exactly match the diameter of the pipe of the connected device.

To connect the plumbing outlet and the sewer pipeline, you need to use a special fitting - an adapter that looks like a cap equipped with a branch for the pipe to be connected. The adapter for tapping into the sewer is connected using clamps. You need to choose an adapter according to the diameters of the pipes that will be involved in the connection.

When using an adapter, only one important problem arises: the diameters of the pipes to be connected must differ by a factor of two. In addition, insertion into a pressure sewer through a horizontal pipe can only be carried out from above or at an angle of 45 degrees so that the connected pipeline does not interfere with the movement of wastewater.

Installing the adapter and inserting it into the central sewer using it is performed as follows:

the sewer pipe is cleaned and dried to a width slightly greater than the width of the adapter;
further, a hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in the pipe. For a 50 mm pipe, the tie-in diameter cannot exceed 22 mm, and a tie-in into a sewer riser using 110 mm pipes can only be carried out using 50 mm connected pipelines;
the fitting is sealed and attached to the sewer pipe with clamps (when doing this work, care must be taken not to deform the plastic);
into the outer terminal of the adapter you need to insert rubber compressor, after which in this place you can connect any plumbing.

Insert in the sewer riser

You can perform a tie-in in the case of a sewer riser using different methods, and before you make a tie-in into a sewer pipe, you need to figure out how to do it. A standard sewer riser is equipped with a 110 mm plastic pipes. When connecting pipes to a central sewer with a diameter of less than 50 mm, an adapter can be used, but for other cases it will not work. For example, if there are other apartments above the tie-in, then the protruding parts of the pipe can interfere with the downward movement of drains, as a result of which the system will become contaminated, up to a complete stop of its operation.

If this aspect is taken into account, then the insertion into the sewer riser of a 50 mm pipe will be performed in the same way as the connection was made using an adapter. by the most important point in this case, it is the choice of the location of the tie-in to provide a sufficient slope for the tie-in pipeline.

Tapping into a 110 mm cast iron sewer pipe will be a much more difficult undertaking, especially compared to how to cut into a plastic sewer pipe. However, this problem is also solved. To implement such a connection, two fittings are required - a tee and a compensator. A tee is required for the connection itself.

When choosing a tee, you need to rely on the diameters of the pipes to be connected. The compensator is, in fact, a piece of pipe with a rolling diameter. The wide part of the compensator is put on the riser from its lower part. Further, the opposite part of the structure is installed in the tee, as a result of which the riser is reunited.

To install these fittings for sewer pipes, you need to make accurate calculations. The most important indicator is the height at which the tee will be located. The elbow of this fitting must be at an appropriate level to maintain a normal pipe slope. It is also necessary to calculate how much of the riser will be in the socket of the tee, and find the lowest point at which the riser will be cut.

The top mark also needs to be calculated. The cutout of the riser should slightly exceed the length of the compensator so that the latter can be brought under the sewer riser. To find the upper level, it is enough to sum the length of the compensator and the level of the lower mark.

Before you start cutting, you need to do the following:

Shut off the riser throughout the house.
Prepare tools for work and cleaning after work.
Clean and dry the riser in the area to be repaired.

The tie-in of the sewer into the existing network will be carried out according to the following principle:

first, a part of the riser is cut off in compliance with the calculated points (it is desirable to process the edges with a file);
the connection point of the compensator is treated with a sealant;
then a compensator is put on;
now you need to cover the bottom of the riser with sealant;
at this stage, a tee is mounted (before installing it, you need to check if there is a seal in the tee);
Bottom part the compensator is sealed;
now the compensator is installed in its place;
then it is necessary to connect the pipelines or install a plug at the connection point;
on this work is completed, and the riser can be started again, after which all debris must be removed. The tie-in to the city sewer is completed.

Conclusion

Inserting an additional pipeline into the sewer pipe is not particularly difficult, but experience in construction is welcome. In some cases, it is worth using the services of specialists in order to avoid possible troubles that may arise due to unprofessional work.

So, given: there is a sewer pipe. Most often a riser; but options are possible. And there is a need to connect to it and use it for wastewater disposal. What are the ways to do this?

We will consider cases correct installation sidebars and a case to fall back on in the absence of better alternatives.

The right way

materials

Before embarking on military operations, you need to thoroughly prepare.

First, stock up on everything you need.

Psychological preparation

If we are talking about a riser, we punctually go around all the neighbors from above, tearfully begging not to use the sewer at the set time. For those whom we cannot find at home, we leave notes.

Tip: take care of a large basin at the same time and get ready to wash the contents of someone else's toilet bowl from the walls. Because, as long-term practice shows, someone will definitely forget about your request.

On the warpath

First, we need to be clear about what we want to do.

We will need to cut out a section of the riser (or other pipe), pull a tee on one side of it, and a compensating pipe on the other (upper, if we are talking about a riser), and then move the compensator by inserting its narrow part into the tee.

This understanding is needed in order to cut exactly as much pipe as needed, and where needed. Clearly imagine where which of the fittings will be located. The distance between the cuts will be equal to the length of the compensator.

And only after that in battle.

Cut out the section of the riser.
We quickly clean the burrs with a file. They will be both on plastic and on cast iron.
We smear outside of the pipe where the compensator will be, sealant directly near the cut.
We pull the compensating pipe onto the pipe completely, so that there is room for putting on the tee.
We coat the second pipe truncated by us with sealant and put the tee in place.
We coat the narrow side of the compensator with sealant and upset it on the pipe so that the narrow side fits snugly into the socket of the tee.
We muffle the tee with a pre-stocked plug or continue assembling the sewer from the tee.

Important: If the section of the riser on top remains without fastening and rests on one socket, do not be too lazy to purchase a clamp for plastic sewer.

He will not allow the pipe to slide down and undock with the upper section of the riser.

Wrong way

How to crash into a sewer pipe if it cannot be cut in any way, and the tie-in will be smaller than the main pipe in diameter? Say, you need to cut into the riser with a diameter of 110 millimeters a drain with a diameter of 50 from a bath and a bidet?

The item we need is called the tie-in to the sewer. It is an overlay on the surface with a branch perpendicular to it and a fastening system.

If we are talking about a horizontal pipe, we simply drill a hole of the appropriate diameter and fix our tie-in opposite it. From above or from the side - as it is more convenient, fragrant water splashing in the pipe is not a hindrance to us.

If we need to secretly damage the riser ... Secrets will not work. We'll have to go again to bow to the neighbors from above. This will turn the turbulent stream pouring down the riser into a small stream, which will only slightly splash you in the process of work.

Why is this method called stupid and plumbers, seeing such a tie-in in the riser, say a lot of bad words not from Dahl's dictionary? Because this tie-in method leaves protrusions and burrs inside the riser.

Insertion from above into a horizontal pipe is the only case when you will not be branded with shame for this method of connection

Any change, any protrusions, especially sharp ones, is a place that will collect all kinds of rags flying down, long hair, used hygiene products and other unappetizing things.

Hence - frequent blockages of the riser and leaks on your head from the neighbors' toilet.

Conclusion

If possible, opt for the right way tie-ins. If this is not possible - well, you are warned ... Good luck!