How to seal a stainless steel pan. How to seal a hole in an enamel pan How to seal a hole in a pan

ENAMEL RESTORATION

ON DAMAGED enamel cookware

Enameled cookware is beautiful, convenient, hygienic, you can not only cook food in it, but also store it for quite a long time.

The enamel coating in the dishes protects food from the penetration of harmful metal ions; moreover, bacteria are not able to multiply on the smooth surface of the enamel.

Enamels (glass enamels) fused onto metal are fusible, transparent, white or colored glass; they serve to protect metal from corrosion and to give metal products a beautiful appearance.

Enameled cast iron cookware does not require special preparation before use. Simply wash with soap and water hot water. The dishes are harmless, hygienic and resistant to food acids (vinegar), alkalis and salts.

The enamel of the following colors will be absolutely harmless: cream, white, blue-gray, black and blue. All other enamel colors, especially bright ones, contain chemical compounds manganese, cadmium and other metals in large quantities. Therefore, when choosing enamel cookware, pay attention to the color of the enamel, or even better, look for the GOST marking.

But this cookware also has its drawbacks: sometimes it is too heavy, and most importantly, its enamel often breaks off when hit. After this, the enamel cookware loses its resistance to acids and alkalis and quickly fails: the metal under the chipped enamel rusts very quickly, sometimes even completely.

If the enamel is already chipped, try to restore it. However, keep in mind that in dishes with a repaired enamel coating it will no longer be possible to ferment cabbage, store milk, or make jam.

To restore the damaged enamel layer on dishware and household products used in everyday life at room and high temperatures (up to 350°C), for example gas stoves, geysers, pots, the industry produces white enamel KO-5102. The enamel is applied to a cleaned and primed metal surface by spraying a jet from an aerosol can.

TECHNOLOGY FOR RESTORING ENAMEL COATING OF COOKWARE WITHOUT SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

Method 1. Putty for enamel surfaces:

kaolin 225 g, finely ground borax 60 g, calcined borax 40 g, powdered sodium silicate 30 g, powdered glass 20 g, slaked lime 20 g, water 50-125 ml.

After thoroughly mixing these substances in a porcelain cup, a homogeneous mass. The cracked enamel surface is cleaned, degreased and filled with putty. Drying lasts 48 hours.

Method 2. Putty for enamel surfaces:

13 parts casein, 4 parts slaked lime, 10 parts soda ash, 6 parts sodium silicate, 15 parts ground quartz, 5 parts crushed glass, 50 parts kaolin.

Before use, the putty is moistened with a little water and left until the casein combines with alkalis. Then the putty is diluted to the consistency of a liquid dough, smeared on the places from which rust and grease must first be removed, and left to air dry.

Method 3. Putty for enamel surfaces:

Weight in parts

Casein 12, Liquid sodium glass 6, Borax 10, Quartz flour 14, Ground glass powder 5,

All components are mixed and water is added until a dough-like mass is formed; The damaged area is cleaned well, degreased and the prepared mixture is applied to it. After drying, the coating becomes waterproof and can withstand high temperatures well.

Scratched dishes are restored by polishing them with pastes, which are prepared by mixing white magnesia, chalk powder, iron oxide (“crocus”), tripoli, and adding water.

Adviсe

With a sudden change in temperature, the enamel cracks, so you should not put an empty pan on a hot stove.

When tasting food, do not hit the edge of the pan with a spoon to shake off the remains; it is better to stir it with a plastic or wooden spoon. Try not to drop it. The enamel begins to chip off, and chips may appear on the bottom.

You cannot cook in a pan with chipped enamel - substances harmful to health will get into your food (you can be poisoned by metal compounds). You don't even need to boil water in it.

The second drawback is that food in it can burn even more than in aluminum. Therefore, you should not cook porridge in such a container.

It is best to cook cabbage soup, borscht, soup, vegetable stew, jelly and compotes in enamel dishes.

You can boil pasta and rice in it - but it is imperative that as soon as you pour the cereal (into boiling water), you must immediately stir it so that the cereal does not stick to the bottom.

Before using enamel cookware for the first time, it must be washed warm water with liquid detergent and wipe dry.

A new pan can be seasoned. Pour water into it to the brim, add 2 tablespoons of salt (per liter), boil, let cool and then drain the water.

When purchasing, choose the color of the pan, preferably dark, and the bottom is better if it is blackened.

The thicker and more massive the cookware, the better it resists impacts.

Soldering stainless steel is a rather labor-intensive procedure, but it will not cause any special problems if you know all the features of its implementation. With significantly less labor, you can solder those that contain no more than 25% chromium and nickel. Moreover, soldering stainless steel with such a chemical composition allows you to obtain reliable connections of products from dissimilar metals, excluding alloys with magnesium and aluminum.

To minimize the risk of the formation of carbide compounds in the stainless steel structure during soldering, titanium is added to the alloy composition, and after the joint is formed, the product is subjected to heat treatment. You should be very careful when soldering cold-worked stainless steels, the surface of which may become cracked under the influence of heated solder. To avoid such consequences, it is necessary to eliminate the load on the parts being connected during the soldering process. In addition, it is possible to pre-anneal the products being joined.

The choice of solder with which you can solder stainless steel is influenced by how chemical composition alloy and conditions technological process. So, if this process is carried out with high humidity environment, then silver alloys that contain a small amount of nickel should be used. Soldering in an oven, as well as in a relatively dry atmosphere, is performed using chromium-nickel and silver-manganese solders.

The most common type of flux used when soldering stainless steel is borax, applied to the future joint in the form of a paste or powder. Melting borax on the surface of the parts being joined contributes to uniform and most accurate heating of the area of the future seam to the required temperature - 850°. Only after the required heating temperature has been reached, which can be determined by the color change of the future joint to light red, is solder introduced into the joint between the parts.

After soldering is completed, flux residues are present at the joint, which are removed by washing with water or. To perform this procedure, you cannot use nitric or hydrochloric acids, which, although they effectively clean the flux remaining on the surface of parts, have Negative influence both on the base metal and on the used solder.

How to do soldering at home

Problems such as joining stainless steel parts using soldering and soldering stainless steel to copper are often encountered at home. Products made of stainless steel have been actively used in everyday life for many years, therefore, when they become unusable for any reason, any home handyman There is a natural desire to repair them yourself. It should be said right away that soldering stainless steel parts is not so difficult, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology, as well as stock up on the appropriate tools and consumables.

Before you start soldering stainless steel, it is very advisable not only to study the theoretical material on this issue, but also to become more familiar with the rules for its implementation using training videos.

To solder stainless steel products, you will need the following tools and Consumables:

a soldering iron powered by electricity with a power of at least 100 W;
special soldering acid, which will be used as a flux;
file or sandpaper;
solder, specially designed for joining steel parts, based on tin and lead;
cable made of steel;
metal tube.

When choosing a soldering iron for working with stainless steel, you should opt for a tool with a power of 100 W. Using a more powerful device to perform such work is simply not practical.

The process of soldering stainless steel parts is performed according to the following algorithm.

First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the area of the future connection, for which sandpaper or a file is used.
After preparing the surfaces of the parts to be joined, it is necessary to apply flux to them, which, as mentioned above, uses soldering acid. The main task of the flux is to ensure high-quality tinning of the parts to be joined.
After the surfaces of the parts to be joined are treated with flux, it is necessary to tinning them, which consists of applying a thin layer of solder consisting of tin and lead to them. If tinning was not successful the first time, then it is necessary to repeat this procedure, preheating the parts to be joined.
Even after heating the products and re-processing them with flux, tinning may not be successful - the solder will simply roll off the surface of the parts, rather than lie on them as a thin film. In this case, you need to use a brush with metal wires, which can be easily made from a tube and. Before using such a brush, it is also necessary to apply flux (soldering acid) to the surface of the parts and only then, heating the future joint with a soldering iron, clean it with a metal brush. This simple technique allows you to effectively clean the surface of a stainless steel from an oxide film, which, as a rule, is the main obstacle to high-quality tinning.
Once a thin layer of tin has been applied to the products to be joined, you can begin to solder them. This procedure is performed using a soldering iron and solder, which is used to fill the joint between the parts.

Solder Types

Stainless steel products can be soldered with both soft solders made on the basis of tin and lead, and hard types of filler material, which includes more refractory metals.

Soft solder, due to the fact that it is based on tin, is a low-melting material characterized by high ductility and fluidity in the molten state. What is especially important when soldering stainless steel products is that it has good deoxidizing ability.

More reliable connections both in production and at home can be achieved by soldering using hard solders. The metals from which they are made melt at more than high temperature than tin, which makes it possible to obtain reliable and durable connections with their help. Very often, materials of this type are produced on the basis of technical silver, which can contain up to 30% in their composition.

One of the popular types of hard solder is the HTS-528 material, which is successfully used for soldering not only stainless steel, but also copper, brass, bronze, nickel and other metals. Conveniently, it is produced in the form of a rod, the surface of which is already covered with a layer of flux. When working with such solder in a production environment or at home, you should keep in mind that its melting point is 760°.

Flux preparation

When soldering stainless steel, you should be very careful about choosing a ready-made flux or its recipe self-made. The classic flux composition, which can be prepared at home, includes the following components:

borax (70%);
boric acid (20%);
calcium fluoride (10%).

For soldering products that differ small in size, you can prepare a flux that will consist only of borax and boric acid, mixed in equal proportions. Having mixed the components of the flux in dry form, it must be diluted with water and treated with the resulting solution at the site of the future connection.

To perform stainless steel soldering efficiently, you should use the recommendations of experienced specialists.

The power of a soldering iron, which must effectively heat the metal being joined, is in the range of 60–100 W, but it is better to opt for a 100-watt device. To solder large parts, such as stainless steel pipes, you will not need electric soldering iron, and a gas burner.
When choosing an electric soldering iron, it is better to opt for models equipped with tips that do not burn.
The most economical and universal type of solder, which makes it possible to obtain high-quality connections for stainless steel products, is tin-lead rods. If you are soldering dishes that will come into contact with food or liquids, it is better to use pure tin as solder, which does not contain harmful impurities.
The room in which soldering work is carried out must be well ventilated.
When performing soldering, be sure to use individual means protection so as not to harm your health.

What else you should know about soldering stainless steel

In cases where special requirements are imposed on soldered joints of stainless steel products, special grades of solders can be used, which include materials based on nickel and phosphorus, as well as nickel, chromium and manganese. Solders of the second group are used, in particular, in cases where soldering is performed in a protective gas environment consisting of a mixture of argon and boron trifluoride. When performing soldering using this technology, pure copper can be used as solder, which wets the metal well and forms a reliable connection.

Nickel-based solders make it possible to obtain joints with high strength. However, such materials also have disadvantages, which include low ductility. That is why such filler material is not used to connect stainless steel structural elements that will be subject to shock and vibration loads during their operation. In addition, a soldered seam made of such a material is very critical low temperatures. Soldering with nickel group solders, which melt at temperatures exceeding 1000°, can be performed in dry hydrogen, argon and vacuum.

Thus, soldering stainless steel products (large pipes operated under pressure, dishes, pieces of furniture or interior design) has its own nuances, which must be taken into account when choosing both soldering modes and consumables. There are many reference books, guided by which you can optimally select everything necessary materials and get a high-quality, reliable and beautiful soldered connection.

Metal kitchen utensils can last a long time. At proper care it practically never fails. But still, during cooking, various troubles occur, including overheating, which can result in a hole or chip if restoration of broken dishes is possible. After such an incident, the pan is most often thrown away, but is it always necessary to immediately run to the trash heap? Repairing an enamel pan is sometimes possible, and this is what will be discussed next.

Metal utensils in the kitchen

Despite the fact that many housewives have long been using pots and pans made of fireproof glass or ceramics, metal cookware is still extremely popular. She has many advantages:

heats up quickly:
cools down quickly;
tolerates temperature changes well;
it is easy to care for;
costs much less than analogues made from other materials.

True, metal pans also have disadvantages - in particular, not all of them can be repaired. Utensils are mainly used from the following materials:

of stainless steel;
aluminum;
steel coated with enamel.

Important! Cast iron cookware is still used to prepare some dishes; it retains heat better and distributes it evenly. Read about what and how to cook in such dishes in our culinary blogs:

But, unfortunately, cast iron cookware most often cannot be repaired. But you can try to put the rest in order.

How to close it?

If a hole appears on an aluminum, steel or enamel surface, you can do one of the following:

plug the hole with a bolt;
solder;
make a rivet;
seal;
brew.

Important! The first method, as well as riveting, is suitable for any material. But not everything can be soldered - for example, the steel must first be annealed, but the method is extremely unreliable. The best option is to brew it if you have the equipment.

Install the bolt

This method has a significant drawback - the enamel cannot be restored in this way. Just the opposite - it will gradually peel off. So this option can be regarded as temporary. If you urgently need to repair a small hole in the bottom and absolutely don’t care what happens to the pan later, better way you can't imagine. The enamel can then be restored.

How to repair an enamel pan? Very simple. You need:

bolt of suitable size;
drill;
metal drill.

The hole is rarely exactly the right shape. Therefore, first of all, it needs to be brought into relative order:

Take a 3 mm drill (if you have a 2 mm bolt, then you need the same drill).
Drill the hole, giving it the most correct shape possible.
Insert the bolt.
WITH inside tighten the nut firmly.

Important! It’s hardly worth cooking in such a pan, but you can boil water for a long time - as well as use it for other purposes (for example, if it is steel or enameled, you can use it in it, etc.).

Brazing Solder

Repairing pans using a bolt is the simplest method, but it is not suitable for every case. For example, it is unlikely that it will be possible to repair a curved surface this way. In this case, you will have to solder, and you need to use hard solder - that is, do the same as tinkers used to repair metal utensils on the streets and markets.

You need:

tin plate;
tin solder;
flux;
sandpaper;
file;
high power soldering iron.

Tinned sheet metal is used to make AA battery cases - from there you can take it and use it in this way:

Sand the area around the hole until the enamel is completely removed and only bare metal is left.
Apply flux.
Tin the damaged area with a soldering iron using hard solder.
Cut out a patch from tin.
Tin it in the same way.
Apply a patch to the hole.
Warm it up with a soldering iron.
Wait for the solder to melt.
Press the patch onto the outside of the pan.
Remove excess solder - this is done with a file.

Solder must be applied in a thick layer - no less than 5 mm. With such a repair, the patch will not fall off for quite a long time. You can cook in a saucepan, but not too often.

Important! Lead is toxic, so if you plan to cook in a pan in the future, use pure tin as solder.

Restoring enamel

How to repair an enamel pan if there is no hole, but the enamel has chipped? We need to restore the enamel. To do this you will need putty, which you can make yourself. You need:

kaolin – 225 g;
trephine – 60 g;
calcined borax – 40 g;
sodium silicate – 30 g;
powder glass – 20 g;
slaked lime – 20 g;
water – 10 ml;
capacity;
mortar and pestle:
pharmacy scales.

All ingredients can be purchased at chemical stores, but it is easier to do this through an online store. Grind the ingredients thoroughly and mix. Then follow this procedure:

Clean the surface and dry it.
Degrease the area where you will apply the putty.
Apply putty.
Let it dry for two days.

Quartz sand enamel

There is another type of homemade enamel. For it you will need:

casein;
sodium liquid glass;
borax;
quartz flour;
crushed glass.

Here's what needs to be done with all this so that repairing an enamel pan gives the expected result:

Combine 12 parts casein, 6 parts liquid glass, 10 parts of borax, 14 parts of quartz flour and 5 – grated glass.
Mix everything well, add a little water to make a homogeneous dough.
Prepare the enameled surface in the same way as in the previous case, that is, strip it down to the metal and wipe it with acetone or gasoline, and then dry it.
Apply the composition you prepared, rub and let dry.
Then sand it smooth and nice, and you can use it.

Big hole

But what should you do if a large hole has formed in your favorite saucepan, for which there is simply not enough tin from the battery? You will need a piece of copper, that is, a copper plate. Also very useful:

needle file;
file;
sandpaper;
gasoline or acetone;
soldering iron;
tin;
rosin;
flux.

Before applying the patch, everything needs to be carefully prepared:

Wash the pan thoroughly.
Clean the damaged area from all deposits and rust, if any.
Clean the plate too until it shines.
Wipe both surfaces with acetone, gasoline, and white spirit.
Apply flux or treat the surface with soldering fluid (available at any hardware store).
Warm up your soldering iron.
Place the sting in rosin.
When a light smoke appears, you can start.
Pick up solder - you need to hold the tip until a film appears.
Apply solder to the repair area.
Level it from the outside and inside of the pan.
Gradually apply pieces of solder and smooth until the hole disappears.

How to prepare a soldering iron?

If you have already dealt with a soldering iron, repairing a pan will not seem difficult to you. For those who have decided to do this for the first time in their life, it makes sense to first prepare a soldering iron. It needs to be tinned:

Clean the tip - this can be done either with sandpaper or a file.
Warm up the device by plugging it in.
Rub the tip over the piece of rosin.
Separate a little solder with the heated tip.
Making circular movements, ensure that the tin spreads evenly over the entire tip - the end should be coated on both sides.
If you don’t get an even layer, repeat the procedure, but try to clean the tip as best as possible.

Important! If you notice a blue film on the prepared soldering iron, it needs to be cooled.

Can it be used?

You can use the pan, but not right away. It must first be prepared. This is done like this:

Wait for the solder to cool.
Clean the soldering area so that the patch does not stand out too much.
After this, you can try to boil the water - if you did everything correctly, the pan will not leak.

Important! Well, the utensils are saved, it’s time to check whether milk will flow out of it. By the way, if you still don’t know which container is best to cook milk in, we will tell you in our article:

Repairing an aluminum pan

The situation is much more complicated with aluminum surfaces. Soldering them is very difficult. Of course, if you have argon welding (and such a device can now be bought completely freely) - there are no problems. But it only makes sense to buy such expensive equipment if you are going to do this all the time - it’s definitely not worth doing this just for one aluminum pan.

Is it necessary to throw away a damaged pan? Not at all. It can be used for a variety of purposes - for example, it is quite suitable in the garden. You can use it to collect fruits and vegetables, as well as carry water for irrigation. For repair you need:

piece of aluminum;
bolt with nut;
drill;
hacksaw for metal.

You need to make two patches from aluminum. They must be larger than the hole:

Apply patches to the hole on the outside and inside.
Fasten them with one or more bolts - the nuts should be on the inside.

Important! A steel pan can be repaired in any way - both soldering and patching.

Sealing an aluminum pan

Aluminum is difficult to solder due to the rapid formation of an oxide film. In addition, you will need a very powerful soldering iron - 100 W or more. There are difficulties with solder - bismuth is added to it, and it is not as easy to get as other metals.

Solder consists of two components:

tin – 80-95%;
bismuth – 5-20%.

Important! It should be kept in mind that bismuth is toxic. It’s hardly worth cooking food in such a pan, but it can be used for other purposes.

The following is used as flux:

paraffin;
stearin.

To avoid the appearance of an oxide film, you can try the following method:

Clean the surface where the hole is located.
Melt the rosin.
Fill the hole with melt
Apply flux.
Apply solder to the tip and seal the hole from the edges to the middle.

Cleaning aluminum and steel cookware after repair

If you need to restore appearance aluminum cookware, it's easy enough to clean. The most common soda is suitable for this. Clean the pan and it will regain its former beauty.

In the same way, the spectacular appearance of stainless steel products is restored. In this case, you don’t even need soda - any dishwashing detergent is enough.

other methods

In some cases, it is better to glue metal surfaces rather than solder them. True, you won’t be able to cook food in sealed pans; this will only work as a bucket. But just in case, you need to know these methods. Adhesives suitable for you:

BF-2;
BF-4;
epoxy.

BF-2 and BF-4

These adhesives are made from phenol-formaldehyde resin, so cookware repaired with their help is not suitable for cooking. The method of application is simple:

Clean surfaces thoroughly to ensure no grease, rust or dirt remains.
Treat the gluing area and patch with acetone or gasoline.
Apply a thin layer of glue - it is more convenient to do this with a brush.
Allow the item to dry for about an hour.
Apply a second layer of glue.
Let it dry a little.
Place the surfaces against each other (for example, a metal plate to a hole), press.
Place the product in the oven and heat for an hour.

Epoxy adhesive

This solution consists of several components. He has:

epoxy resin;
dibutyl phthalate (plasticizer);
aluminum oxide or quartz flour;
hardener

After the patch is glued, the product must be placed in the oven, preheated to 200°C and heated for about three hours. This - the best option. If you don’t have an oven, you can preheat it to 120°, and then leave the pan alone for a day, after which it will be ready for use. You can store food in it, but you shouldn’t cook it.

Rivet

If you don’t have glue on hand, but you have a lot of metal working tools in your house, you can make a rivet. You need:

a good hammer (it should fit tightly on the handle);
hacksaw;
chisel;
pliers;
vice;
wire cutters;
anvil;
metal plate;
thick wire - copper or aluminum.

The procedure for repairing a pan:

Cut a piece of wire 10-12 cm.
Clamp it in a vice.
Using light blows of a hammer, flatten one end to form a cap - it should be larger than the hole.
Insert the free end of the wire into the hole so that the cap closes it.
Trim the free end.
Flatten it so that the other side also has a cap covering the hole.

Video material

A pan repaired using any of the above methods will last for a long time. In addition, the very feeling that arms grow from the shoulders gives a person confidence - if you succeed, you can repair anything.

When your favorite pan leaks, you can bring it back to life by sealing the hole. In the same way, you can extend the service life of any metal kitchen utensils (kettle, water ladle).

Hole in a pan: how to seal it

To fix a hole in your favorite pan using soldering, we will need:

Prepare the material for the patch (copper plate)
Clean surfaces (sandpaper/file)
Perform degreasing and soldering (gasoline / acetone / solder / flux / soldering acid / soldering iron)

And now about all this in order.

1. PREPARATION FOR WORK

In the case of a small hole in the pan, you will need very little aluminum wire and tin solder. Larger holes are patched by applying a copper patch to the leaky area of the cookware. This main secret Togo, how to repair an enamel pan. For soldering using a copper plate, the cut-out patch should be slightly larger than the dimensions of the hole in the pan.

2. CLEANING SURFACES

When all necessary tools and consumables are prepared, you can begin cleaning the surfaces. To do this we use:

needle file
file
sandpaper

Surfaces must be cleaned of plaque, rust, scale, corrosion, etc. If soldering is done with a copper patch, the platinum is cleaned to a shine.

3. DEGREASING SURFACES

The next step is to treat the surfaces with solvent, gasoline, acetone, and then with flux (which will remove all remaining contaminants and oxide films). If there is no flux, it is reasonable to replace it with “soldering acid” / “soldering liquid”, which is freely sold in any specialized store.

4. SOLDERING

The soldering iron heats up and lowers its tip into rosin or ammonia to clean oxide films. When a slight haze appears, you know that the soldering iron is ready for use!

We touch the solder with the tool until the soldering iron tip is covered with a characteristic film. Having grabbed a little solder, we transfer it to the soldering site and level it along the edges of the hole in the pan (from the outside and inside). Thus, we tinned the places of future soldering.

In the same way, pieces of solder are gradually transferred to the place of the hole, with which the hole in the pan is sealed. Small gaps can be filled entirely with solder.

In the case of overlaying a plate (to repair an enamel pan), solder is surrounded around the nearby surface of the hole and a copper plate is placed on top of the solder. To achieve better bonding of metals, the plate must also be heated from above with a soldering iron. It is important to ensure that the surfaces of the patch and the pan are in contact as tightly as possible. The resulting gaps are filled with solder.

5. PREPARATION FOR USE

After the solder has cooled and the pan has been patched, the surface of the patch can be sanded with the same sandpaper to give the soldering area a neater appearance.

Additions and notes

When soldering aluminum pans, they proceed a little differently. After cleaning the surfaces, they are immediately filled with rosin melt prepared in advance. This will avoid the formation of oxide films, which appear on aluminum products in a matter of seconds.

In addition, to solder an aluminum pan, you will need a more powerful soldering iron (minimum 100 Watt). The following mixture is required as solder:

80-95% tin
5-20% bismuth

Stearin/paraffin should be used as a flux.

In general and in general, solder the hole in aluminum pan(repairing an enamel pan) is only slightly more difficult than repairing a copper or metal one. Show patience and endurance, and the desired result will not keep you waiting. The reward will be a repaired pan, which can be used for its intended purpose for many years to come instead of going to a landfill or metal collection point!

The pan became leaky and a hole appeared at the bottom. Don't rush to throw it away. Having the skills to use a soldering iron, you can repair the pan yourself.

Preparatory work

First of all, the area of the pan where the hole has formed should be thoroughly cleaned, first with a file and then with sandpaper. At worst, if you don’t have a file, a needle file will do. After thorough cleaning, the surface around the hole must be treated with flux or soldering acid.

If the pan is not enameled, but aluminum, the cleaned surface will instantly become covered with a layer of oxide and soldering will be difficult to the point of impossible. Therefore, immediately after cleaning, the treated surface must be covered with a layer of molten rosin.

Let's cheat

Turn on and heat up to operating temperature soldering iron (by the way, the power of the soldering iron should be large enough to ensure good heating of the pan at the repair site). If it was not possible to find a high-power soldering iron, the pan can be heated over the flame of a gas stove immediately before soldering.

Use the soldering iron tip to grab a small amount of rosin and apply it in a thin layer to the surface of the pan around the hole. The resulting film of rosin will prevent the surface of the metal from which the pan is made from oxidizing.

We pick up a small amount of solder with the tip and slowly, conscientiously apply it to the area around the hole. The surface is tinned, we move on.

Soldering

Using a soldering iron tip, thoroughly warm up the area of future soldering. Scooping up solder in small portions, carefully fill the entire hole in the pan with it.

If the diameter of the hole in a leaky pot is more than 3-5 mm, we recommend not filling it with solder, but applying a patch of copper plate a little bigger size than a hole.

The copper plate should be cleaned with sandpaper and treated with soldering fluid. Next, apply a copper patch to the prepared and tinned surface of the pan and thoroughly heat the entire surface of the patch with a soldering iron. When heated, the solder on the surface of the pan will melt and securely fix the patch.