Everyone knows the fact that often occurs during edgebanding - melting. PVC edges, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.
There is a problem of wave-like formation on edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, peeling of the edge from the part, lumpy edges of 0.4 mm, whitishness of the edges and many other problems.
It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case more deeply than to attribute everything to the quality of the edges.
So first we should consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of defects at this stage in detail, we are talking about the use of exclusively PVC edges.
The process consists of several stages:
Gluing
Trimming
Milling overhangs
Cycling
Polishing
Gluing PVC edges.
Regardless of the type of machine, edge gluing is done using melt glue.
The likelihood of marriage occurring at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:
Carry out the most suitable settings by trial and experiment
Select a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature
Take into account the parameters of laminated chipboard (humidity, friability)
The edge melts when glued.
If you are using a feed speed of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply an edge that is more heat-resistant, and it must be taken into account that the permissible temperatures declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing operating temperature glue bath.
After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, surface roughness appears:
A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the incorrect selection of hot melt glue.
The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right hot melt adhesive. Lumpiness on the surface appears at a low chipboard density with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.
The problem can be corrected by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the bumpiness will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.
When gluing it forms uneven surface due to indentation of the chipboard structure:
This problem is easily solved. Simply move out the additional pressure rollers.
The seam between the edge and the end of the part is too noticeable.
When gluing edges PVC thick 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled hot melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the glue to visually merge the adhesive seam of the edge and the chipboard.
The edge is melted on curved parts.
This problem is also worth looking at from the point of view of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.
For example, for manual machines, when the part moves around a stationary gluing unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.
For equipment with automatic feeding When the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to edge tape.
Overhang milling, scraping.
After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.
This problem occurs when the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.
Increase the cutter speed and reduce the edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.
There are chips on the edge edges.
Chips on a PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.
They may indicate that the rotation speed of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both.
Polishing.
In order to ensure that the edge is well polished and all remaining chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel and applying a release liquid to the surface of the chipboard.
Conclusion:
Based on the above, we recommend that when changing suppliers, you do not immediately attribute poor edgebanding to .
In order to make sure that the edge is not suitable, you need to check its use on several modes/machines, check whether the temperature and feed speed are set correctly, take into account the composition of the glue and much more.
Of course, the quality of the edges primarily influences the cladding process. Based on many years of experience in the supply of edge strips, we recommend that when choosing materials you base your choice not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.
So, in order not to spoil the product/part at the edge banding stage, you must:
Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges
Pay attention to how long the importer has been working on the market
How many suppliers/factories does the importer have (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).
We offer to solve your problems at the edgebanding stage.
You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the “LUX” edge, and save without loss of quality by using the “STANDARD” PVC edge. ().
We are happy to solve any problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program/in production, we will accept a full refund.
We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edge materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.
(chipboard) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, furniture edges and profiles are used. It’s more convenient to work with them using special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the unsightly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it out of different materials, accordingly, she has different properties and price.
Paper or melamine edges
Most cheap option— edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. The paper is taken of high density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued to papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layer (cheaper) or double-layer. To prevent the melamine coating from wearing off, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge the parts, on the back side of the melamine furniture edge apply the adhesive composition. When working, you just need to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.
Paper or melamine edge is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture
The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no point in making it thicker, and it will be expensive.
This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge quickly wears out. Therefore, if it is used, it is only on those surfaces that are not subject to load. For example, on back side shelves, countertops, etc.
PVC
Received recently wide use Polyvinyl chloride is also used in the production of edges for furniture. A ribbon of a certain width and thickness is formed from a mass painted in a certain color. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it’s easy to choose the right one.
PVC furniture edging is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to relatively low price and good performance properties:
PVC furniture edging is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or external appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is a furniture PVC edge with an adhesive applied, and there is one without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heat, you must be careful so as not to melt the polymer.
Made from ABS plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals and is highly durable and durable. The disadvantage can be considered the high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
This type of edge can be matte, glossy or semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to use and more durable to use.
Veneer edge
Veneer is a thin section of wood, colored and shaped into a strip. This furniture edge is used in production for gluing sections of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edge or 3D
Made from transparent acrylic. On back side stripes are applied. The layer of polymer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. Used in the production of unusual furniture.
Profiles for processing furniture edges
You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edging tape. There are also furniture profiles that are attached mechanically. They are available in two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
For T-shaped furniture profiles, a groove is milled in the edge being processed. The profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the angle look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum; with the same installation method, they look very different, and the differences are significant.
In width they are available for laminated chipboards of 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.
C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted with glue. They coat the edge with it, then put it on plastic profile, press and fix well. These PVC profiles there are soft and hard. Hard ones are harder to bend and it’s difficult to paste them over curved edges. But they have great strength.
If you still need to “fit” a rigid C-shaped furniture profile onto a bend, it is heated with a hair dryer, then given the desired shape and secured with masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue furniture edges with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those that have glue applied to the back. In this case, an iron or construction hair dryer. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good universal glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.
A little about what thickness of edge to glue on which parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, do not need to be glued at all, but basically they try to treat them so that less moisture is absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or 0.4 mm PVC is glued to these edges. The edges are also processed drawers(not facades).
It is better to use 2 mm PVC on the front ends of the facade and drawers, and 1 mm PVC on the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.
How to glue edging yourself with glue
The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge; it can be applied to PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process; any melamine ones are easy to glue.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, thick cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We set the iron to about “two”, while it is heating up we cut off a piece of tape. The length is a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging off both sides. We take an iron and, using a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. It is necessary to heat evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
The edge can be cut with a knife, both with the sharp and blunt sides. Some people use a regular metal ruler, while others find it more convenient to use a stainless steel spatula.
So, take the tool you have chosen and cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are easily cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may arise. Such edges are possible if there is one. This guarantees good results in a short time. The processing will take longer if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part should be smooth, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, first go over the cuts with sandpaper, then thoroughly remove dust and degrease. Only after this can you glue.
Edging with PVC tape (no glue on the back side)
With this method of gluing PVC edges yourself, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue and carry out all the steps as recommended. For example, for Moment glue, you need to apply the composition to the surface and distribute it, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To press the edge tightly to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a block, you can take a construction float and also attach felt to its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up thick fabric in several layers and press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all its weight, pressing it against the surface of the chipboard. The movements are stroking. This is how they iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue “seizes.” Then you can start processing the edges.
The edge is used to protect the end edges of parts made of MDF, chipboard, PVC from abrasion, moisture and impact. This finish performs a decorative function, and also gives the edges and corners of furniture strength and protects people from the harmful effects of substances such as formaldehyde, which is used in the production of compressed wood boards.
If the border is damaged or peels off, urgent repairs are required. And in this case, the primary task is to select the material and glue for the edges made of PVC, melamine paper or other material.
Varieties of edges
From the variety of edges you have to choose the most suitable one.
Melamine
Made in the form of a self-adhesive tape made of decorative paper, which is impregnated with melamine resins. Typically used for interior decoration furniture. This a budget option edges for chipboard, not characterized high quality. It has a short service life, is susceptible to moisture and often falls off on its own over time.
The undoubted positive property of the melamine edge is the ease of gluing it; this can be done at home yourself, using a regular iron. The second advantage is the absence of a side, a curb protruding above the edged surface, which sometimes irritates when it gets under your hands when working with the keyboard, and also interferes with sweeping away small debris, for example, crumbs from the dining table in the office.
It is a flexible tape with curved edges that form a side. This edging is made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride). Types of edging differ in width and profile: in cross-section, the edge resembles either the letter “t” (T-shaped) or the letter “p” (U-shaped).
The latter is easier to attach, but less reliable; craftsmen do not recommend using it on surfaces that are often subject to friction: on the seats of stools or benches, on the front edge computer desk, which is constantly in contact with the forearms.
PVC edging increases the durability and wear resistance of furniture parts, and reliably protects edges and corners from damage.
The edging is similar to the previous type of edging tape, but is more environmentally friendly. Made from chlorine-free plastic. Has found successful application in furniture production, thanks to heat resistance and impact resistance.
How to glue melamine edge
Update if desired old furniture and at the same time save money, use a melamine edge with glue. It’s easy to stick it, for example, on a tabletop:
- Cut a piece of tape with a margin of about two centimeters.
- Place the adhesive side to the tabletop and press with a hot iron or heat with a hair dryer.
- Hold until the glue words melt.
- Move the iron along the edge gradually, preferably no more than 0.5 cm at a time.
- Immediately after warming up and removing the iron, press the edge strip with a dry cloth and hold to fix it.
Advice! An iron or hair dryer will also help you remove the old edge tape. Just warm it up and remove it with a knife or thin spatula.
Fastening PVC and ABS edging
Plastic edging tapes, theoretically, can simply be fixed to the edge of the furniture, but this is extremely unreliable. Additional fixation with glue is preferable.
To attach the T-shaped profile, you will have to lay a recess along the entire edge to be processed. The easiest way to do this is milling machine. If you have the skill, it will be replaced by a drill with a circular attachment. However, in general the profile is intended for professionals.
To fix PVC or ABS edges at home, use PVC glue, as well as universal compounds “Moment” and “88-lux”; it is advisable that they be marked “for PVC” or “for ABS”.
Professionals use hot melt adhesives, which are part of a range of thermoplastics. When heated, they acquire high elasticity, and when cooled, they instantly turn into solid state. The high fluidity and drying strength of the adhesives is due to the ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate they contain. The main disadvantage of hot melt adhesives, of course, is the need for appropriate equipment for the job.
When working with any border, try to calculate the sequence of pasting so as to avoid joints. Go around the corners with a profile - preferably they should be rounded. If the corners are normal, a thick (PVC or ABS) profile will not go around them, and the melamine edge will most likely break. In this case, you will have to make joints at the corners, which must be sanded at the end so that they are smooth. If you run your hand along the edge of the part, the roughness should not be felt.
Advice! You can get rid of excess edge tape with a very sharp knife, and cut off the ends first. Be careful not to accidentally damage the corners of the furniture. The direction of the knife should be towards the inside of the part.
If the factory edge is damaged or partially fallen off, remove it and replace it with a new one. A little effort and the table is like new!
Chipboard is the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not very aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed on the end side - the installation of special decorative panels from melamine, PVC or other available types of synthetic plastics.
Why else do they edge furniture?
Except for the obvious purpose– to ensure an elegant appearance, furniture edging performs several more equally important tasks:
Where should edging be done?
Furniture manufacturers often edge only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this seems quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can lead to certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of the chipboard.
If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can easily do their edges yourself at home. To do this you don't need to have any special equipment– the edge can be glued with a regular iron.
Don’t be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.
Edge materials
Edging open furniture surfaces can be done using different decorative elements, differing in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.
How to glue an edge with an iron
In production, edging is done using tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation when high temperature, ensuring the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove any remaining glue and base material, and sand the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.
You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use tape with an adhesive composition already applied. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in a similar way:
You can learn more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard in the video below:
Gluing the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have already discussed this method earlier. This edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects against damage.
The presence of microgaps between the U-profile edge and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or bathroom, so edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.
Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. At the factory, you can order tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on a machine will ensure ideal evenness and accuracy of application of decorative cladding, but it requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the minimum price.
Often, due to furniture design errors or other reasons, it is necessary to glue the edge to the chipboard. Paste traditional plastic edge at home it is practically impossible, especially without special equipment. The melamine edge saves the day, fortunately there are enough colors. Let's see how melamine edge gluing is done and what it is all about.
Without going into detail about what the melamine edge itself is made of, we can say that it is a tape on which adhesive is applied. At the same time, the glue is thermal, so simply gluing it on will not work. At the same time, thanks to the thermal adhesive on the chipboard, it holds well.
Fig.1.
Before we begin to describe the process of gluing melamine edges, a few words about the necessary tool and preparing the end of the chipboard. To apply the melamine edge you will need a hair dryer, a knife and a pair of construction gloves.
Fig.2.
The end of the laminated chipboard must be clean and smooth, without sawdust and flaking parts. Otherwise, the edge will not stick to the chipboard, but will stick to it poorly. The best end is obtained after milling or sawing on a machine. The next photo will show an end of poor quality; there was simply nothing better at hand.
Fig.3.
The melamine edge gluing begins by cutting a strip of the required length or slightly longer than required from the main roll. In this case, the end that will be glued first must be trimmed. This can be done with ordinary scissors.
Next, apply the edge to the end of the chipboard. It should be said that the melamine edge is available in a width of 20 mm, i.e. it is wider than a chipboard. Therefore, at this stage it is important to align it along one edge, as in the photo.
Fig.4.
Please note that on the other side of the chipboard, the edge protrudes. In the future it needs to be trimmed.
Fig.5.
Next, the hairdryer comes into action. For gluing melamine edges, a temperature of 250 degrees is sufficient. The edge is heated with a hairdryer, thereby melting the glue. A characteristic feature, indicating that the glue has melted is the moment when the edge loses its curved shape after being in the roll and becomes straight. Next, she simply presses herself against the end of the chipboard with her hands. This must be done with gloves, because... the edge is hot.
There are a few features worth mentioning.
Edge gluing should be done in a warm room, this will ensure that the glue hardens more slowly. Accordingly, there will be more time to correct the position.
The melamine edge should be heated not along its entire length, but along 20-30 cm. It’s easier to work this way, and the glue doesn’t have time to harden before the edge is pressed against the end of the chipboard. So, on average, a 60 cm long end is glued in 3 approaches. The first - the beginning of the edge is glued, the second - the middle part of the edge, the third - the end of the edge.
Do not forget that the temperature of the air from the hair dryer is about 250 degrees, so you need to work carefully and Do not point the operating hair dryer at your hands or other objects.
Fig.6.
There are many options on the Internet on how to glue an edge. For example, heat it with an iron. In my opinion, this is not advisable. Sometimes, when overheated, the glue leaks out from under the edge, and most likely it can ruin the iron, and it costs more than a hair dryer. It is also suggested to cool the edge different ways. This is also not advisable, because at a room temperature of 25 degrees, the edge cools down before the glue hardens in a few seconds, and in my opinion, it is not advisable to come up with additional operations.
The last step is cutting the melamine edge.
Fig.7.
In this case, I cut it with the usual kitchen knife, there was simply nothing else at hand. The result is not the best. Gives good results sharp knife with a thick blade, like a shoe knife. The knife should be positioned at an angle to the edge of about 30-45 degrees from the bottom side. The best results are obtained with a special device for cutting melamine edges, but I personally was never able to purchase one.
In conclusion I will say one more thing interesting feature. As you can see in the photo, the edge cut has White color, that against the background of cherry color it doesn’t look very good. This can be eliminated using wood stain on water based. You just need to moisten a rag in the stain and wipe the cut with it, removing the excess. For example, for cherry-colored chipboard, a mahogany stain is well suited.