Wooden vases look very beautiful. Usually done on lathe. But 90% of the wood turns into chips.
There is a technology that allows you to make a vase from a flat panel.
Here's what happens:
It took me a long time to choose the material to test. On the one hand, you want something interesting, on the other hand, you don’t mind spoiling it.
In the end, I settled on walnut, with oak and wenge inserts.
A walnut board 75mm wide and 15mm thick is cut into 3 parts.
4mm oak veneer must be cut into 15mm dies.
How to do it if not circular saw, but have a couple of clamps and a scoring saw?
Like this - the fist is clamped between the nut dies...
And sawing.
The result is an even die of the required thickness:
I glue the walnut into a shield with spacers - two oak dies, between them a thin wenge veneer. (which was sawn using the same technology)
Scratches from the saw are visible. A slight sloppiness, plus solid oak, which was sawed along the grain.
No big deal, the shield will still have to be sanded to even out gluing errors.
And again I glue it with spacers and leave it overnight:
I use a belt sander to level the shield and remove any remaining glue. Perhaps we should have made the wenge continuous:
The result was a shield 14 mm thick. It took 0.5 mm on each side.
Based on the shield and the desired dimensions of the vase, the angle and pitch are selected:
I print the drawing, use an awl to combine the centers of the shield and the drawing, glue the drawing:
I cut a small rake at an angle of 38 degrees:
I fix the shield with clamps on the jigsaw table and using the rail as a guide, I drill 2mm holes with a drill at an angle of 38 degrees:
I insert a file into the hole:
And let's go!
I cut the first ring:
And here it is - the bottom!
The wood is very hard, it is sawed slowly, if you press it a little, the file will burst. To replace the file, you need to return the table to a horizontal position, unscrew the fastenings of the file, thread the shield, again adjust it to 38 degrees, adjust the tension... Moreover, the file almost always breaks when there is 3 cm left before the end of the ring.
Second ring, the picture begins to emerge.
Bottom view:
And after the fourth ring, the files ran out. I used one and a half packs. No more, I'm putting it off until tomorrow.
I stopped by the store, bought 8 packs of saws (to be sure there would be enough), and sawed:
I'll move the rings:
Sleight of hand and no fraud, the rings are folded into a vase:
Can be combined with shift. You can make inserts between layers. There are plenty of options.
I start gluing without a bottom for now, to make it easier to sand the inner surface:
Checking the alignment of layers:
I leave it under load overnight:
Result. The surface is rough, but the alignment of the lines is without serious disturbances.
The darkening is traces of sawing with an ultra-fine file (41 teeth per inch), which sank into sawdust and the wood burned.
It is necessary to level the inner surface.
Attempt number one - a steel rod with sandpaper glued to double-sided tape.
Not an option, too flexible.
Attempt number two, sanding drum on the same spindle.
It doesn’t fit either, the machine is lightweight (as I intended it to be). Doesn't hold up, plus it's inconvenient to work with.
Attempt number three. Sanding drum on a flexible sleeve.
The drum is small, sawdust flies where it is least needed, but you can work:
For fine grinding, I collect petals of 400 sandpaper:
But it doesn't polish. I continue with my hands.
It takes a lot of time, the surface is far from ideal.
I discover an error - the penultimate ring is glued with an offset of 180 degrees.
Well, this will be a reminder...In the end, it could have been much worse. Let it add charm - it will be a border. The main thing is that the spacers aligned properly.
The biggest nuisance is the sweat that pours into your eyes and falls onto the vase.
The respirator was once snow-white:
I glue the bottom. To speed up the process, I use my weight with dumbbells in my hands as a press... The vase can withstand more than 100 kg without squeaking, despite its lightness and thin walls. Now I’m thinking, what would have happened if the vase had shattered?
Plywood vase
For work you will need: jigsaw, files, sawing machine, sandpaper, drill or saw, pliers, wire cutters, screwdriver, hammer, BF-2 or wood glue, compass, ruler, pencil, copy paper, buttons, plywood 4 mm thick, round stick with a diameter of 14 - 18 mm, thin cord, some small nails and screws, Oil paint, colorless la To, sharp knife or scissors and burning machine.
First transfer the development of parts through carbon paper to plywood, while not forgetting about the economical use of material. Draw straight lines with a ruler, round ones with a compass. In the drawings, the centers of the circles are marked with dots, and their radii are marked with arrows.
It is very important to consider in which direction the fibers of the top layer of plywood will be located on the parts! When sawing on edges with outside There should be a thin trace of the pencil line. Thoroughly clean the edges of the parts with a file, and hard to reach places- a file. The tenons must fit tightly into the grooves of the mating parts. Finally, thoroughly sand all surfaces with sandpaper.
Carry out preliminary (without glue) assembly of the products: you need to make sure that everything is done correctly. Only after this, lubricate the parts with glue and connect. Don't forget to remove any spilled droplets.
Queue for painting. If you decorated the parts with an ornament using a burning apparatus, then it is better to cover them with colorless varnish in 2 - 3 layers. And those without decoration, first paint them with oil or aniline paints, and then with varnish.
WALL VASE. cut out parts 1 - 10. Glue parts 2 - 9 into the grooves and slots of part 1. Insert a clean mustard jar into the resulting cavity. The bottom of the jar should rest on part 7. Drive a nail into the wall from the underside of part 10. Use wire cutters to bite off the cap so that the remaining stem protrudes 8 mm. Insert this part with a groove (without glue) into part 1 so that you can periodically remove the jar. The vase is assembled. Hang it on the wall using the hole in the top of part 2.
HANGING VASE. Cut out parts 11 - 14. Glue part 12 into one of the grooves of part 11. Take a clean jar with a capacity of 0.33 liters and put part 13 on its top part, and place the bottom of the jar on part 11. Then glue the upper part of part 12 with grooves into the part 13. Insert the remaining parts 12 and all parts 14 with glue. The vase is assembled. After final processing, the vase with flowers can be hung by the “ears” on three strings in a bookshelf.
Try cutting out a craft like this. Your loved ones will surely like it by placing it in a visible place, for example, on a shelf. To make this craft you will need the following:
Sawing tools.
Preparing your desktop
First of all, you need to prepare your table on which you will work. There should be no unnecessary things on it and every tool should be at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop and has probably already thought about creating one. Making a table is not difficult, but choosing a place for it in the house is difficult. Perfect option- this is an insulated balcony on which you can do crafts at any time. I have already written about preparing the table in a separate article and tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire process of creating it. If you don't know how to prepare your workplace, then read the following Article. After you have completed the process of creating a table, try to start choosing your future craft.
We choose quality material
The main material is plywood. The choice is always difficult. Each of us has probably encountered such a problem as delamination of plywood from the end part and asked the question, what causes this delamination? Well, of course, this is mainly due to low-quality plywood. If this is not the first time you have picked up a jigsaw, then you can select plywood from the remnants of a previous craft. If you are new to sawing and you don’t have plywood, then buy it at a hardware store. Choosing material for sawing is always difficult. You should always choose plywood carefully, often look at the defects of the wood (knots, cracks) and draw conclusions. The difficulty in choosing plywood lies in the fact that no matter how you guess at its defects and shelf life. For example, you bought plywood, cleaned it, translated the drawing and suddenly it began to delaminate. Of course, this has happened to almost everyone and it’s oh, how unpleasant. So it is better to pay attention when choosing and choose good plywood. I wrote a special Article in which all the principles of choosing plywood are described step by step.
Stripping plywood
We clean our plywood with sandpaper. As you already know, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” sandpaper is used for cleaning plywood when sawing. You've probably seen sandpaper in hardware stores, and that's what we'll need. In your work you will need “Coarse-grained”, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” sandpaper. Each of them has its own property, but a completely different coating, by which it is classified. “Coarse-grained” sandpaper is used for processing rough plywood, i.e. which has many defects, chips, and cracks.
“Medium-grained” sandpaper is used for processing plywood after “Coarse” sandpaper and has a slight coating. “Fine-grained” or otherwise “Nulevka”. This sandpaper serves as the final process for stripping plywood. It gives the plywood smoothness, and therefore the plywood will be pleasant to the touch. Sand the prepared plywood in stages, starting with medium-grain sandpaper and ending with fine sandpaper. Sanding should be done along the layers, not across. A well-polished surface should be flat, completely smooth, glossy in the light and silky to the touch. How best to prepare plywood for sawing and which sandpaper is best to choose Read here. After stripping, check the plywood for burrs and small irregularities. If there are no visible defects, then you can proceed to the process of translating the drawing.
Translation of the drawing
For me, drawing translation has always been the main process in my work. I will tell you a couple of rules, as well as tips for high-quality translation of a drawing. Many people transfer the drawing onto plywood not only using a pencil and copying, but also using “Black Tape”, glue the drawing to the plywood, then wash off the drawing with water and the markings of the drawing remain on the plywood. In general, there are many ways, but I will tell you about the most common method. To transfer the drawing onto prepared plywood, you must use a copy, a ruler, a sharp pencil and a non-writing pen. Fasten the drawing in plywood using buttons or simply hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing is the right size. Arrange the clock drawing so that you can use a sheet of plywood as economically as possible. Translate the drawing using not writing pen and rulers. There is no need to rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing.
Drilling holes in the parts
As you have already noticed, the parts contain parts of the grooves that need to be cut out from the inside. To cut out such parts, you need to drill holes in them with help hand drill or, the old fashioned way, make holes with an awl. By the way, the diameter of the hole must be at least 1 mm, otherwise you can damage the elements of the drawing, which, alas, are sometimes difficult to restore. To avoid damaging your work table when drilling holes, you must place a board under the workpiece so as not to damage the work table. It is always difficult to drill holes alone, so ask a friend to help you in your task.
Sawing parts
There are many rules for cutting, but you need to stick to the most common ones. First of all, you need to cut out the internal parts, only then according to the external pattern. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep the jigsaw straight at a 90-degree angle when cutting. Cut out the parts along the lines you precisely marked. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and unevenness. If you go off the line while cutting, don't worry. Such bevels and irregularities can be removed using flat files or “coarse-grained” sandpaper.
Rest
When sawing, we often get tired. Fingers and eyes, which are always tense, often get tired. When working, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a couple of exercises. You can view the exercises here. Do the exercises several times during work.
Cleaning Parts
You should always clean the parts of a future craft carefully. At the very beginning of the work, you already sanded the plywood with sandpaper. Now you have to do a small part of stripping the plywood. Using medium-grain sandpaper, sand the edges of the parts and the back of the plywood. “Fine-grained” sandpaper is considered the final stage of cleaning parts. It is better to clean the front part of the parts with fine sandpaper. When processing plywood, take your time. You can also use a rounded file, with which it is convenient to clean inner part holes. Try to ensure that the parts come out without burrs or irregularities.
Assembly of parts
Assembling the parts of our craft is not so difficult here. In order to correctly assemble the parts, you need to read the following Article, which describes in detail all the details of the assembly. After the parts are assembled into one common craft without any problems, then start gluing them.
Gluing the parts
The shelf parts must be glued using PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue. Assembled craft It is better to tie it with glue with a strong thread, tighten it and lay it out to dry. The craft glues together in about 10-15 minutes.
Burning out crafts
To decorate our craft with a pattern (for example, along the edges of the craft), you will need an electric burner. It can be very difficult to burn a pattern beautifully. To burn patterns, you must first draw the pattern with a pencil. You can read how to work with an electric burner and add patterns to a shelf here.
Varnishing crafts
If desired, you can transform our craft by covering it with Wood Varnish, preferably colorless. Read how best to varnish a craft. Try to choose a quality varnish. Varnishing is carried out using a special brush “For glue”. Take your time. Try not to leave visible marks or scratches on the craft.
When the question arises: what to give Mom and do it yourself? Take a closer look at the Flower Vase; an original product, also cut out of plywood yourself, will serve as an excellent gift and will delight your loved ones. The work is of medium difficulty, follow the instructions, be consistent and you will succeed.
This work belongs to Lyudmila Pelymskaya, teacher German language, who devoted a long time to such a hobby as artistic cutting with a jigsaw.
In order to make such a Vase with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
Preparation of the workplace
As usual, the first thing you need to do is equip your workplace where you will work. The rules are not complicated: there should be no unnecessary things on the table, all the tools should be in their place and at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop, and you’ve probably already thought about creating one. Making a table is not difficult, but choosing a place for it in the house is more difficult. A good option- this is an insulated balcony on which you can start working on your craft at any time. If you have a specially equipped room with a workbench, then you are lucky. In a separate article you can read about where I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire process of its creation. After you have completed the process of creating a workplace, you can proceed directly to your future craft.
Plywood selection
The main elements will fit on A4 plywood, since some parts need to be made in several copies, you will need several blanks. The thickness of the plywood should be from 2.5 to 3 mm, and depending on the thickness, sawing should be done along the internal or external contour, this is important for the grooves into which the elements of the craft are inserted. Before transferring the drawing to plywood, sand the workpiece with coarse sandpaper and then with fine sandpaper. Wrap wooden block sandpaper and then start sanding. Sand the prepared plywood along the layers, not across. A well-polished surface should be flat, completely smooth, glossy-matte in the light and silky to the touch. Pay attention to grain placement, knots, dents and other imperfections. Quality and color. If the plywood is not of very high quality and delaminates when sawing, read the recommendations for elimination. 
Transferring the design to plywood
You need to translate the drawing accurately and carefully: secure the drawing using buttons, double-sided masking tape, or simply hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing is the right size. Arrange the individual parts so that you can use the plywood sheet as economically as possible. There is no need to rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing. If time is short, then to speed up the translation process you can use the technique of quickly translating a drawing; for this, I suggest you read the article in the tips section:.
Cutting out a vase from plywood with a jigsaw
There are many rules for cutting, but you need to rely on the most common ones. First you should cut out the internal elements and then start cutting out the outline. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep it straight at a 90 degree angle when cutting. Cut out the parts along precisely marked lines. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and unevenness. If you go off the line while cutting, don’t worry. Such bevels and irregularities can later be removed using a flat file or “coarse-grained” sandpaper.
Rest
Fatigue occurs when sawing. Fingers and eyes, which are always tense, often get tired. When working, of course, everyone gets tired, but in order to reduce the load, do a couple of exercises. You can watch the exercises. Do this several times as you work.
Assembling a vase from plywood
The assembly of the Vase parts in this work is simple. When assembling, refer to the drawing. If some parts are not included in the required parts, file them down. When the craft is assembled without problems, glue it together. The dish must be glued using PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue.
Varnishing crafts
If desired, the dish can be varnished with stain under valuable species wood or simply transparent, this is not necessary, but it will give greater individuality to your craft. Try to choose a good and high-quality varnish. do it with a special brush, take your time. Try not to leave any visible streaks of bubbles or lint from the brush.