From time immemorial, the appearance of a Russian person has been clearly characterized by clothing. His external image connected him with the generally accepted aesthetic ideal. Women have a white face with a bright blush, sable eyebrows, and men have a thick beard. Clothing was made from simple fabrics and was distinguished by a simple cut, but an abundance of jewelry worn on top of it: bracelets, beads, earrings.
The fashion of Ancient Rus' was influenced, first of all, by climatic conditions. Severe winters and relatively cool summers caused the appearance of closed, warm clothes. The main occupations of the people were farming and cattle breeding. This also determined the style of clothing.
basis men's suit there was a shirt. As a rule, a canvas shirt served as both underwear and outerwear. Her sleeves were sewn in, long and rather narrow. Sometimes a sleeve was put on the sleeve around the hand. On special occasions, on top of the clothing there is a rounded narrow collar and a necklace.
Ports were an obligatory part of the clothing of Russian men - narrow, long, tapering pants that reached the ankles. The outerwear was a retinue, which was put on over the head. Russian warriors wore relatively short chain mail and a helmet. The clothing of the nobility was complemented by a small Byzantine-Roman cloak.
The basis of the women's costume was also a shirt, which differed in length from the men's shirt. Rich women wore two shirts - an undershirt and an outer shirt, which were belted with a narrow belt. Over the shirt, married women usually wore a skirt-like skirt, wrapped around the waist and secured with a cord. The girls' everyday clothing was a cufflink, which was always worn on a shirt and belted. For the holiday, a top sewn like a tunic was worn over the poneva and cufflinks.
According to tradition, married women covered their hair with a close-fitting military cap, and put on a head scarf on top. Noble women also wore a hat over their headscarf. Only unmarried girls were allowed to wear loose hair or a braid.
The Mongol yoke suspended the economic and cultural development of Ancient Rus' for several years. Only after liberation from the Tatar-Mongol invasion the costume began to change. New, swinging clothes began to appear, cut off at the waist. As a result of the influence of the Mongol yoke, some items of oriental use remained in Russian costume: skullcap, belts, folding sleeves.
Noble people began to wear several clothes, which indicated their prosperity. The shirt became the underwear in the costume of the nobility. A zipun was usually worn over it. For the peasants it was outerwear, and the boyars wore it only at home. A caftan was usually worn on top of the zipun, which necessarily covered the knees.
One of the ceremonial clothes worn over the caftan was the feryaz. The sleeve was usually only threaded right hand, and the left sleeve was lowered along the body to the ground. This is how the proverb “work carelessly” appeared.
The specific clothing was a fur coat. It was worn by peasants, noble boyars, and the tsar. In Rus' it was customary to sew fur coats with the fur inside. No matter how expensive the fur was, it served only as a lining. The top of the fur coat was covered with cloth, brocade or velvet. And they wore a fur coat even in the summer and even indoors.
Women also loved the fur coat. Dushegreya became an original Russian clothing. It was made from expensive fabrics and embroidered with patterns. Since the 16th century, a sundress made of several sewn pieces of fabric has come into fashion.
The royal vestments were no different from casual wear nobility Only on special occasions did he dress in precious clothes in order to amaze overseas ambassadors with his luxury and wealth.
Literature: “I explore the world”, History of fashion.
Men's dress of Ancient Rus'.
Historians still do not agree on the question of what the ancient Russian costume was like. Why? Because most of the tribes of that time lived in isolation, in forests, far from trade routes. The only thing scientists are sure of is that the outfits in those days were simple and monotonous.
Daily clothing was the same for princes and ordinary men. It differed only in the quality of the material, finishing and variety of colors. In imitation of the Byzantines, the Russians pulled one item of clothing over another. The dress of rich people was even more similar to Byzantine: dense, with long hems, made of heavy brocade, richly dyed.
Shirt
The basis of men's attire has always been the shirt. It was made from knee-length canvas, with a split collar in the front. They belted the shirt with a cord, which was called a girdle. This piece of clothing was worn untucked, which is why not only the collar, but also the hem and sleeves were decorated with embroidery. The Slavs believed that animals, birds and heavenly bodies embroidered on shirts protected them from evil spells. Depending on financial condition The owner of the shirt could embroider it with red thread, silver, silk or gold. Lush embroidered items of clothing were called sewn. Rich people's shirts were decorated with braids.Trousers
The second mandatory item of a man's outfit was ports or trousers. They were made without cuts and tied at the waist with a knot. Ancient trousers had another category - leggings. The ancient ports were made narrow and long, tucked into onuchi (fabric strips up to 2 meters long, which were used to wrap the legs). The ports were held together on the belt by a cord called a gashnik.Retinue
The shirt and ports were called lower garments (another name was underwear). The middle and then the outer dress was pulled on them. Svita is a caftan-like garment from the times of Kievan Rus. They were long and tightly fitted the torso, made of cloth, and worn over the head. At a later time, the nobility began to wear kaftans themselves, which were made from axamite and velvet. The hems of such garments were decorated with braids, and the upper part was trimmed with a necklace (an expensive embroidered collar) or a mantle. At the waist, the product was usually tied with a gold belt.In ancient times, another type of caftan was known - zipun. They were sewn without a collar, with long sleeves. The nobility wore zipuns exclusively at home, as they considered this item of clothing to be underwear. Ordinary people, on the contrary, they wore such products over a shirt “on going out.” Zipuns were made knee-length, with narrow hems, in contrast to the bottom of caftans, which fell to the ankles, showing the world only bright, elegant boots.
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Clothing is the cultural and historical value of the Russian people. Since ancient times, clothing has been considered a reflection of the ethnic characteristics of each nation; it is a vivid embodiment of cultural and religious values, climatic conditions, and economic way of life. All these points were taken into account when forming the basic composition, the nature of the cut and decorations of the clothes of the inhabitants of Ancient Rus'. The clothing of the people of Ancient Rus' had its own unique style, although some elements were borrowed from other cultures.
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Clothing is the cultural and historical value of the Russian people. Clothing of Ancient Rus' was distinguished by its multi-layered nature, bright ornaments and embroidery. Embroidery and drawings on clothes also acted as amulets; it was believed that they were able to protect a person from troubles and evil forces. The quality of clothing of different classes of society varied significantly. Thus, expensive imported materials predominated among the nobility, while simple peasants wore clothes made of homespun cloth.
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Men's clothing The main outfit for all classes of society was a shirt and ports. They formed the basis of a men's suit. The shirt was belted with a long belt-sash. In Rus', according to custom, only the wife could sew clothes for her husband. This is how they protected happiness and love in their home. Young children also wore shirts, but, as a rule, until the age of three, their parents’ clothes were altered, thus trying to protect them from evil forces and bad eyes.
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Clothing of the common people and the nobility Depending on the social affiliation of its owner, the shirt differed in material, length, and ornament. Long shirts made of colored silk fabrics, decorated with embroidery and precious stones Only princes and nobles could definitely afford it. While the common man in the times of Ancient Rus' was content with clothes made of linen.
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Women's clothing in Ancient Rus' Women's clothing in Ancient Rus' was not distinguished by an intricate cut, but at the same time indicated status and financial status with the help of light and pleasant-to-touch material, as well as the decoration of the outfit.
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Features of women's clothing of Ancient Rus' First and irreplaceable thing- This is a shirt or chemise. Popular among girls of Ancient Rus' was canvas clothing called cufflinks. Outwardly, it resembled a piece of fabric folded in half with a cutout for the head. They put a cufflink over the shirt and belted it. The shirt for the holiday was called a long sleeve, worn by women on a special occasion. It was sewn from linen or hemp fabric, as well as silk or brocade.
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The top was considered festive and elegant clothing. As a rule, it was sewn from expensive fabric and decorated with embroidery and various ornaments. Externally, the top resembled a modern tunic, with different sleeve lengths or without it at all. A distinctive element of clothing for married women was poneva, which was a woolen fabric that was wrapped around the hips and secured with a belt at the waist. Poneva of different ethnic groups differed color scheme, for example, the Vyatichi tribes wore blue-checkered poneva, and the Radimichi tribes preferred red. Features of women's clothing in Ancient Rus'
01.11.2014
Slavic folk costume is not only our national treasure, but also a source of inspiration for modern clothing design and for creating stage images in various genres and types of art, and is a vivid embodiment of folk art.
Entire items of clothing from the 9th-13th centuries. has not survived to this day, and the main source is the found remains of clothing and jewelry. In addition to archaeological data on clothing Eastern Slavs Several visual sources provide the most complete picture of this period.
We will look at the main details of the clothing of the ancient Slavs, and a number of protective ornaments decorating these clothes. Of course, much of what is said below is controversial and requires much more detailed study, but...
So, “One meets people by their clothes...”.
By looking at a person, one could say exactly: what clan or tribe he belongs to, what area he lives in, what position in society he has, what he does, what age he is, and even in what country he lives. And looking at a woman, one could understand whether she was married or not.
Such a “calling card” made it possible to immediately decide how to behave with a stranger and what to expect from him.
Today, in our everyday life, “talking” details of clothing and even entire types of costumes that can only be worn by a member of a certain gender, age or social group have been preserved.
Now, when we say “clothes,” it sounds like colloquialism, almost like jargon. Nevertheless, scientists write that in Ancient Rus' it was “clothing” that was used much more often and wider than the familiar term “clothing” that existed at the same time.
What did the wardrobe of the ancient Russians consist of?
First of all, clothing was strictly divided into casual and festive. It differed in both the quality of the material and the color scheme.
In addition to the simplest and coarsest fabrics, there were many fine fabrics, both local and imported. Of course, the quality of clothing depended on the wealth of its owner - not everyone could afford expensive imported silk fabrics. But wool and flax were available to all segments of the population.
The fabric was dyed with natural dyes - leaves, roots, and flowers of plants. So the oak bark gave brown, madder roots are red, nettles are gray when dyed hot, and green when dyed cold, onion peels are yellow.
Since the times of Ancient Rus', “red” has been beautiful, cheerful, and therefore festive and elegant. In Russian folklore we come across the expressions: “spring is red, the maiden is red, beauty is red (about the beauty of a girl).” The red color was associated with the color of dawn, fire, all this was associated with life, growth, the sun-world.
White. Associated with the idea of Light, purity and sacredness (White Light, White Tsar - a king above kings, etc.); at the same time - the color of Death, mourning.
Green - Vegetation, Life.
Black - Earth.
Golden - Sun.
Blue - Sky, Water.
Gold embroidery has long been known. The ancient people of Kiev wore clothes with a lot of gold embroidery. The oldest known Russian gold embroidery was found by archaeologists in the burial mound of Prince Cherny (near Chernigov), and dates back to the tenth century.
Interesting fact:
The Slavs have a widely known belief that a person’s first clothes influence his subsequent life. Therefore, a newborn was often received wearing a shirt sewn by the oldest woman in the family, so that he would inherit her fate and live long; into the father’s old unwashed shirt, “so that he would love him,” and for diapers they used parts of adults’ clothing so that the child would certainly inherit their positive qualities
The ancient name for clothing among the Slavs was “portishche” - a cut (piece of fabric); hence the word “tailor” - a person who sews clothes. This name lasted in Rus' until the fifteenth century
Shirt -
the oldest, most beloved and widespread type of underwear among the ancient Slavs. Linguists write that its name comes from the root “rub” - “piece, cut, scrap of fabric” - and is related to the word “chop,” which once also had the meaning “to cut.”
Another name for a shirt in Russian was “shirt”, “sorochitsa”, “srachitsa”. It is a very old word, related to the Old Icelandic "serk" and the Anglo-Saxon "sjork" through common Indo-European roots.
Long shirts were worn by noble and elderly people, shorter ones by other classes, since, unlike the measured and leisurely life of princes and boyars, the everyday life of the working people was filled with hard work and clothing should not hinder movements. Women's shirts reached to the heels.
Men wore a shirt for graduation and always with a belt. Hence the expression “unbelted” - if a person did not put on a belt, then they said that he loosened his belt. Festive shirts for the nobility were made from expensive thin linens or silks in bright colors and decorated with embroidery. Despite the conventionality of the pattern of the ornament, many of its elements were of a symbolic nature; they seemed to protect a person from other evil eyes and misfortunes.
The decorations were “hanging” - removable: richly embroidered with gold, precious stones and pearls. Usually, ornaments of protective motifs were embroidered on shirts: horses, birds, the Tree of Life, plants and floral ornaments in general, lankas (emphasis on “and”) - anthropomorphic characters, images of Gods... It should be noted that sometimes the embroidered parts were altered from an old shirt to a new one.
Gate Slavic shirts did not have turn-down collars. Most often, the incision at the collar was made straight - in the middle of the chest, but there were also oblique ones, on the right or left.
Embroidery, which contained all kinds of sacred images and magical symbols, served as a talisman here. The pagan meaning of folk embroidery can be traced very well from the most ancient samples to quite modern works It is not without reason that scientists consider embroidery an important source in the study of ancient religion.
Sundress
among the Slavs it was sewn on narrow straps and resembled a semicircle, due to large quantity wedges that greatly widen the hem.
We don’t wear sundresses
The loss to us from them:
We need eight meters of chintz,
Three spools of thread...
The Northern Slavs traditionally preferred the color red. The central part of Rus' mostly wore one-color blue, paper, purchased fabric for their sundresses or pestryad (fabric similar to matting). Bottom part The front seam and hem were decorated with stripes of silk ribbons and stripes of patterned fabric.
The first mention of a sundress, or sarfan, dates back to 1376 in the Nikon Chronicle. This word originally meant an item of men's clothing. Mention of men's sundresses is found in ancient songs:
He is not in a fur coat, not in a caftan,
In a long white sundress...
Before Peter the Great's decrees on the mandatory wearing of European clothing in cities, sundresses were worn by noblewomen, boyars, city women, and peasant women.
In the cool season, a soul warmer was worn over the sundress. It, just like the sundress, widened downward and was embroidered with amulets along the bottom and armhole. The soul warmer was worn on a shirt with a skirt or over a sundress. The material for the soul warmer was thicker, but for the festive one they sewed velvet, brocade, and all this was embroidered with beads, glass beads, braid, sequins, and ribbon.
Sleeves shirts could reach such a length that they gathered in beautiful folds along the arm and were grabbed with braid at the wrist. Note that among the Scandinavians, who wore shirts of a similar style in those days, tying these ribbons was considered a sign of tender attention, almost a declaration of love between a woman and a man...
In women's festive shirts, the ribbons on the sleeves were replaced with folded (fastened) bracelets - “hoops”, “hoops”. The sleeves of such shirts were much longer than the arm; when unraveled, they reached the ground. Everyone remembers fairy tales about bird girls: the hero happens to steal their wonderful outfits. And also the fairy tale about the Frog Princess: waving the lowered sleeve plays an important role in it. Indeed, the fairy tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it. In this case, there is an allusion to the ritual women's clothing of pagan times, to clothing for sacred rites and witchcraft.
Belt
in Slavic outfits it was present in both women and men.
Slavic women wore woven and knitted belts. The belt was long, with embroidery and fringe at the ends, and was tied under the chest over the sundress.
But belts have been one of the most important symbols of male prestige since ancient times - women never wore them. Let us not forget that almost every free adult man was potentially a warrior, and the belt was considered perhaps the main sign of military dignity.
The belt was also called “girdling” or “lower back”.
Belts made from wild aurochs leather were especially famous. They tried to get a strip of leather for such a belt directly during the hunt, when the animal had already received a mortal wound, but had not yet given up the ghost. One must think that these belts were quite a rarity; the powerful and fearless forest bulls were very dangerous.
Trousers
The Slavs did not wear them too wide: in surviving images they outline the leg. They were cut from straight panels. Scientists write that the trousers were made approximately ankle-length and tucked into onuchi at the shins - long, wide strips of fabric (canvas or wool) that were wrapped around the leg below the knee.
Another name for clothing for legs is “trousers”, as well as “legs”.
Portas, narrowed at the ankle, were made of canvas; noble men wore another one on top - silk or cloth. They were fastened at the waist with a cord - a cup (hence the expression “keep something in a stash”). The ports were tucked into boots made of colored leather, often embroidered with patterns or wrapped with onuchi (pieces of linen), and bast shoes were put on them, with ties pulled through the ears - frills, and the onuchi were wrapped with them.
Lapti
At all times, our ancestors wore those woven not only from bast, but also from birch bark and even from leather straps. They were thick and thin, dark and light, simple and woven with patterns, and there were also elegant ones - made of tinted multi-colored bast.
The bast shoes were attached to the leg with the help of long ties - leather “twists” or rope “flips”. The ties crossed several times on the shin, catching the onuchi.
“How to weave a bast shoe,” our ancestors said about something very simple and uncomplicated.
Bast shoes had a very short service life. When preparing for a long journey, we took with us more than one pair of spare bast shoes. “To go on a journey is to weave five bast shoes,” said the proverb.
Leather shoes
was predominantly an urban luxury. One of the main types of shoes of the Slavs of the 6th-9th centuries. there were undoubtedly shoes. In the common Slavic period they were called chereviks.
Most often, shoes were put on onuchi, which men wore over their pants, and women - directly on their bare legs.
Men's headdress The Slavs most likely called it a hat. For a long time, this word itself came across to scientists exclusively in princely letters and wills, where this sign of dignity was discussed. Only after 1951, when archaeologists found birch bark letters, and science received an unprecedented opportunity to look into daily life common people, it became clear that “hat” was used not only for princely regalia, but also for men’s headdress in general. But the prince’s hat was sometimes called a “hood.”
The hats best known to researchers are specially cut hats—hemispherical, made of brightly colored material, with a band of precious fur. Stone and wooden idols that have been preserved from pagan times are dressed in similar hats; we also see these in the images of Slavic princes that have come down to us. It’s not for nothing that the Russian language has the expression “Monomakh’s hat.”
Frescoes on the stairs of the St. Sophia Cathedral in Kyiv and a bracelet from the 12th century have also been preserved: they depict musicians in pointed caps. Archaeologists found blanks for such a cap: two triangular pieces of leather, which the master never got around to sewing together.
Felted hats discovered during excavations date back to a slightly later era, as well as light summer hats woven from thin pine roots.
It can be assumed that the ancient Slavs wore a wide variety of fur, leather, felted, and wicker hats. And they did not forget to take them off not only when they saw the prince, but also simply when meeting an older, respected person - for example, with their own parents.
Women's headdress
protects a woman from evil forces - the Slavs believed.
It was believed that hair contained magic life force; loose girlish braids are capable of bewitching a future husband, while a woman with her head uncovered can bring misfortune, damage to people, livestock, and crops. During a thunderstorm, she can be killed by thunder, since, according to legend, she becomes easy prey and a container evil spirits, which is targeted by thunder arrows. The expression “she was a fool” meant that she had disgraced her family.
Before marriage, the headdress (at least in summer) did not cover the top of the head, leaving the hair open. At the same time, girls' hair was worn outside, for show - this was not only not forbidden, but was even welcomed by those around them. A good braid was perhaps the main decoration of a girl in Ukraine, Belarus, and Russia
Little girls wore simple fabric ribbons or thin metal ribbons on their foreheads. Such corollas were made of silver, less often of bronze, with hooks or eyes at the ends for a cord that was tied at the back of the head.
Growing up, along with the ponyova, they received “beauty” - a maiden crown. It was also called “withered” - “bandage”, from “vyasti” - “knit”. This bandage was embroidered as elegantly as possible, sometimes, if there was enough money, even gold.
Master blacksmiths decorated the corollas with ornaments and gave them different shapes, including with an extension on the forehead, like Byzantine tiaras. Archaeological finds also confirmed the extreme antiquity of Slavic maiden crowns. A wreath on a girl’s head is, first of all, a talisman against the evil eye and evil spirits. At the same time, a circle is also a symbol of marriage; it is not without reason that when young people get married they circle the table, and at a wedding they circle the lectern. If a girl had a dream about losing a wreath, she expected trouble for herself. If a girl lost her virginity before the wedding, then she would lose a wreath at the wedding; half of it could be put on her as a sign of shame.
A wreath of artificial flowers and threads was often placed on the groom’s hat, protecting him from wedding lessons (to fix, to spoil - to jinx, to spoil). The flowers used for the wedding wreath were strictly defined: rosemary, periwinkle, boxwood, viburnum, rue, laurel, vine. In addition to flowers, amulets were sometimes sewn into it or inserted into it: red woolen threads, onions, garlic, peppers, bread, oats, coins, sugar, raisins, a ring. By the way, sprinkling the newlyweds with grain and money when they meet from the crown also has, first of all, a protective, and only then a lyrical meaning of wishes for fertility and wealth.
The headdress of a “manly” woman certainly covered her hair completely. This custom was associated with the belief in magical power. The groom threw a veil over his chosen one's head and thus became her husband and master. Indeed, one of the oldest Slavic names for a married woman’s headdress - “povoy” and “ubrus” - mean, in particular, “bedspread”, “towel”, “shawl”. “Povoy” also means “that which wraps around.”
Another type of headdress for married women is kika. A distinctive feature of the kika were... horns sticking up above the forehead. Horns are the protection of the mother and her unborn child from evil forces. They liken a woman to a cow, a creature sacred to the Slavs.
During the cold season, women of all ages covered their heads with a warm scarf.
Outerwear Slavs - this is a retinue, from the word “to twist” - “to dress”, “to wrap”, as well as a caftan and a fur coat. The retinue was put on over the head. It was made of cloth, with narrow long sleeves, the knees were necessarily covered, and girded with a wide belt. The caftans were the most various types and purposes: everyday, for riding, holiday - sewn from expensive fabrics, intricately decorated.
In addition to cloth, the Slavs' favorite and popular material for making warm clothing was dressed furs. There were many furs: fur-bearing animals were found in abundance in the forests. Russian furs enjoyed well-deserved fame in Western Europe, and in the East.
Subsequently, long-length casings began to be called “sheep coats” or “fur coats,” and those that were knee-length or shorter were called “short fur coats.”
Everything that we have now was received from our ancestors, they originated it, and we improved it. We must never forget our history. All discussions about the national idea are meaningless if they are not based on an understanding of the foundation of a given community.
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Many books and articles have been written on the topic of Russian folk costume, both in print and on the Internet, as well as by me more than once on this blog.
However, loving Russia, the land on which I was born and raised, and also remembering that everything new is well-forgotten old, I want to once again talk about the folk costume of the 16-19 centuries.
Russian national costume
- a traditional set of clothing, shoes and accessories that has developed over centuries, which was used by the people of Rus' in everyday and festive use.
It has noticeable features depending on the specific location, gender (male or female), purpose (wedding, holiday and everyday) and age (children, girls, married women, old people)
He also had two main types: northern and southern.
IN central Russia wore clothes close in character to the northern ones, although southern Russian was also present...
Russian national costume became less common after Tsar Peter I in 1699 he banned the wearing of folk costume for everyone except peasants and church ministers.
However, I would clarify a little: Peter 1 introduced a decree on the wearing of European costume for city dwellers, but did not touch the folk costume.
But the fashion for folk clothes in Russia has always been preserved (especially in fashion among city dwellers and rich classes, folk clothing clearly manifested itself in the late 19th and early 20th centuries) and continues to this day.
From this moment on, we can assume that clothing essentially became of two types: urban costume and folk costume.
Folk costume of the 15th-18th centuries.
Ancient Russian clothing at first glance presents great complexity and variety, but, looking closely at its parts, it is easy to recognize in many names more similarities with each other than differences, which were mainly based on the features of the cut, which, unfortunately, are now little understood for our time.
In general, the clothes were the same in cut for both kings and peasants, they bore the same names and differed only in the degree of decoration.
The shoes of the common people were bast shoes made of tree bark - ancient shoes, used during pagan times (mainly before the 17th century).
In addition to bark bast shoes, they wore shoes woven from twigs and vines, while some wore leather soles and tied them with belts wrapped around their feet.
The footwear of wealthy people consisted of boots, chobots, shoes and chetygas.
All these types were made from calfskin, from yuft, and for the rich from Persian and Turkish morocco.
Chobots were ankle boots with pointed toes turned up. Shoes were worn by both men and women.With boots and boots they wore stockings, wool or silk, and in winter lined with fur.
Posad wives also wore large knee-length boots, but noblewomen wore only shoes and boots.
Poor peasant women walked, like their husbands, in bast shoes.
All types of shoes were colored, most often red and yellow, sometimes green, blue, azure, white, flesh-colored.
They were embroidered with gold, especially in the upper parts - the tops, with images of unicorns, leaves, flowers, etc.
And they humiliated themselves with pearls, especially women’s shoes were decorated so thickly that the morocco was not visible.
In wealthy Russian houses, shoes were generally made at home. For this purpose, knowledgeable slaves were kept in the yard.
Men's folk costume.
The common people had canvas shirts, the noble and rich had silk shirts.
Russian people loved red shirts and considered them elegant underwear.
The shirts were made wide and not very long, dropped over the underwear and girded with a low and weakly narrow belt - a girdle.
In shirts under the armpits, triangular inserts were made from another fabric, embroidered with yarn or silk, or from colored taffeta.
Along the hem and along the edges of the sleeves, the shirts were trimmed with braid, which was embroidered with gold and silk, two fingers wide.
Noble and rich people also had embroidery on the chest and along the base of the sleeves. Such embroidered shirts were called sewn shirts.
In shirts, special attention was paid to the collar, which extended from under the outer clothing and surrounded the back of the head high.
Such a collar was called a necklace.
This necklace, in fact, in the old days was called a shirt, but in the 17th century they began to call it a shirt, and a shirt or shirt to which it was fastened.
Pants (or ports) were sewn without cuts, with a knot, so that with it they could be made wider or narrower.
For the poor, they were made of canvas, white or dyed, from homespun - coarse woolen fabric, and for the wealthy, they were made of cloth; in the summer, the rich wore taffeta pants or made of silk.
The length of the pants reached only to the knee, they were sewn with pockets, called zepya, and were of different colors, including red.
Three clothes were put on the shirt and trousers: one on top of the other.
The underwear was the one in which people sat at home; if it was necessary to go on a visit or receive guests, then the next one was put on, the other one, and the third one was for going out.
Clothes of those times had many names, but they all belonged to one of three types.
Underwear was called zipun, both among kings and peasants. It was a tight dress, short, sometimes down to the knees, like a camisole.
In the cutting book of the royal court, the length of the zipun was listed as 1 arshin and 6 vershoks, when the dress for the entire height was 2 arshins and 3 vershoks in length.
ZIPUN
For simple and poor people, zipuns were made of dyed leather, winter ones were made of homespun, for the wealthy - silk, taffeta, often white with buttons.
Sometimes the sleeves were sewn onto it from a different fabric.
For example, the zipun itself was made of white satin, and its sleeves were made of silver wool.
The collars of the zipun were narrow and low, but like a shirt, a separate collar embroidered with pearls and stones was attached to the front - low.
A second garment was put on the zipun, which had several names, but was different in cut.
KAFTAN
The most common and ubiquitous type of outerwear is the caftan.
It was sewn to the toes or to the calves to show off the gilded boots. There were two types of caftans based on length: caftan and caftans.
Their sleeves were very long and gathered into folds or ruffles. In winter, these sleeves served as a muff against the cold.
The slit on the caftan was only in the front and was trimmed with braid
Along the caftan, parallel to the slit, stripes were made from a different fabric and a different color on both sides, and ties with tassels and strings (laces) were sewn onto these stripes, sometimes hanging loops were sewn on, and on the other side - buttons for fastening.
Later they began to use onlyup to 12-13 buttons on the chest. The lower part of the caftan was always unbuttoned.
The collars of the caftan were low, from under them the bottom of the zipun or the necklace of the shirt protruded.
On the back of the caftan, fabric of a lower quality than the front was used.
Winter caftans were made with furs, but light ones; similar warm caftans were called caftans.
The men also showed off their belts. They were both long and varied in decoration.
CHUGA and FERYAZ - a type of outerwear
This category of average clothing includes chuga - clothing for traveling and riding.
The chuga was girded with a belt, behind which a knife or spoons were placed.
Chugs were fastened with buttons and were, if desired, embroidered in the same way as caftans.
Feryazy were called clothes worn in the same way as caftans, n and zipuns.
They had long sleeves, broad shoulders and narrower caftans at the hem.
In Fletcher's description of Russian clothing, the feryaz is represented by the third outer dress - the first zipun, the second or middle one - a narrow caftan with a knife and a spoon in the belt (by which the British meant chugu), the third feryaz - a spacious dress bordered by a pasole.
All that can be deduced from the confusing descriptions of other authors on the feryazi is that the feryaz was a more indoor type of caftan.
Its name is Persian and came to us in the 16th century. It was in use both among kings and among the people.
OPASHEN, ONORORYADKA, EPANCHA, FUR FUR COAT, AWFUL
Outer or folding clothes were: opashen, okhaben, odnoryadka, ferezya, epancha and fur coat.
Summer clothes were in danger; in the fall and spring they wore single-row clothes.
Both the opashen and single-row ones were wide and long to the toes with long sleeves.
Okhaben - a cloak with sleeves and a hood. Ferezya - a cloak with sleeves worn while traveling.
The epancha was of two kinds: one traveling from camel wool or coarse cloth, the other elegant from rich material, lined with fur more for pomp than for warmth.
Fur coats were the most elegant clothing. A lot of furs in the house was a sign of prosperity and contentment.
Fur coats were covered with cloth and silk fabrics and sewn with fur inside.
But there were also fur coats and just fur coats, such coats were called head coats.
Clothing was preferred in bright colors and trim. Mourning colors were worn only on sad days.
Russian headdresses
Russian hats were of four types: taffyana, caps lined with fur in winter, low quadrangular hats with a fur bandand gorlat hats are the exclusive property of princes and boyars.
One could recognize origin and dignity by looking at the hat.
Tall hats signified nobility of origin and rank.
WOMEN'S FOLK CLOTHING.
The women's shirt was long, with long sleeves, white and red flowers.
The wrists, embroidered with gold and decorated with pearls, were fastened to the sleeves. A letnik was worn over the shirts: clothes that did not reach the toes, but with long and wide sleeves.
LETNIK
These sleeves were called caps: they were also embroidered with gold and pearls.
The hem was trimmed with another material with gold braid and also trimmed with pearls.
There was a slit along the front of the garment, which was fastened all the way to the throat, because decency required that a woman's breasts be covered as tightly as possible.
For the wealthy, the flyer was made from lighter fabrics, for example.
Taffeta, but they were also made of heavy gold and silver woven.
The colors of the pilots were different.
A necklace was fastened to the summer jackets, as well as to the men's zipuns. For women it fit more closely.
OPASHEN - women's outerwear
Upper women's clothing I was afraid.
This was a long garment with many buttons from top to bottom; the rich had gold and silver buttons, the poor had copper buttons.
The opashen was made of cloth, usually red, the sleeves were long, and there was a slit for the arms just below the shoulder.
In this way, a woman could show not only the wide caps of her summer jacket, but also the wrists of her shirt, embroidered with gold and pearls.
A wide fur collar-necklace, round in appearance, was fastened around the neck, covering the chest, shoulders and back.
Along the cut and hem, the opashni were bordered with other types of fabric and were embroidered with gold and silk.
TELOGREYA
Another type of clothing was a padded warmer.
It was already happening in the shoulders, but wider at the hem.
The sleeves were long with armholes, as in opashny, at the edges of these sleeves a wrist made of hard fabric, often embroidered, was fastened, the hem was covered with a wide strip of other material, and the slit, which was fastened with buttons, usually 15 pieces, was bordered with metal lace or braid, densely embroidered with gold. .
Telogreys in the 15th-17th centuries were both cold and warm, lined with marten or sable.
Women's fur coats were different from men's. They were cold and warm (with fur).
If the letnik in women's attire corresponds to the zipun in men's clothing, then the opashen and quilted jacket corresponded to the caftan, and the fur coat meant outer clothing.
DOUSHEGREYA
Also one of the types of warm clothing - soul warmer, it was sewn with sleeves and also without sleeves and looked like a vest with a skirt.
They were also cold (made of fabric), and warm with sleeves or fur, or quilted with cotton wool.
FUR COATS in folk clothes
Women's fur coats were sewn on sable, martens, foxes, ermine, squirrels, hares, depending on the condition of the owner, and covered with cloth and silk fabrics of different colors and colored ones.
The fur coats were also beautifully trimmed with metallic lace and braid.
The sleeves of women's fur coats were decorated with lace at the edges; they were removed and stored. passing from mothers to daughters as heirlooms.
A silk fur coat, lined with cotton wool and trimmed with fur, has been preserved in the collection of the Russian Museum.
It was tied on the chest with ribbons into three bows.
At the end of the 18th and first half of the 19th centuries, a fur coat was part of a girl’s wedding costume and was fashionable clothing in the Russian North.
Other types of women's clothing: headbands, hair covers, etc.
On ceremonial occasions, women put on a rich mantle - a podvolok or privolok - over their ordinary clothes.
Married women wore volosniks or podubrusniks on their heads - hats similar to skufya made of silk fabric, often made of gold, made with a knot, with the help of which the size was adjusted with a trim along the edge with trimmings of pearls and stones.
The modest woman was afraid that even family members, excluding her husband, would not see her hair.
A scarf, usually white, was placed over the hair, its hanging ends, tied under the chin, were studded with pearls.
This scarf was called ubrus.
GIRLS' HEADS
When women went out, she put on a white hat with a brim.
They also wore hats.
The girls wore crowns on their heads.
The crowns had lower parts, called cassocks. Others had simpler crowns and consisted only of gold wire in several rows, which were decorated with corals and stones.
The maiden crown was always without a top.
In the future - hoops (soft and hard) made of multi-colored ribbons.
Open hair was considered a symbol of girlhood.
If unmarried girls could wear one braid or braided hair.
Then married women braided 2 braids without fail and always wore a headdress.
In winter, girls covered their heads with a tall hat made of sable or beaver with a cloth top; from under the hat one could see braids braided with red ribbons.
The poorer ones wore long shirts; on the shirts they put letniks, sometimes white, similar to a shirt, sometimes dyed, and tied a scarf made of dyed or woolen material around their heads.
On top of the entire cape dress, the villagers wore clothes made of coarse cloth or silver - sernik.
With great prosperity, the villagers wore silk scarves, and on top of the flyer was a single row of red or blue dye, zendel or zufi.
Women's clothes of that time were sewn without a waist, simply. And it was quite consistent with the proverb: not well cut, but tightly sewn.
Both men's and women's clothes were stored in cages, in chests under a piece of water mouse skin, which was considered a preventative against moths and mustiness.
Beautiful and expensive clothes were worn only on holidays and special occasions.
In everyday life, the same nobles often wore dresses made of rough canvas or cloth.
SORAFAN
Sundress - from the Persian word "sarapa", which literally means: dressed from head to toe.
This name was used in Russia from the 15th to the 17th centuries, mainly for men's clothing. Later, the term "sundress" was preserved only in relation to women's clothing.
Ancient sundresses were with sleeves or simply with wide armholes, swinging, with a fastening in one row (single-row) with buttons up to the neck.
The back of an ancient slanted sundress was cut together with the straps. A similar triangle in the Nizhny Novgorod province was called a “frog”.
SHUGAI
Shugai is women's outerwear with long sleeves, a large collar or without it, and a cut-off back approximately at the waistline.
Shugai was festive clothing and was made from expensive fabrics: velvet, damask, brocade, silk.
