Floor scraping machine - device and application features. Do-it-yourself scraping of a wooden floor How to sand a floor with a scraping machine

  1. What is looping and why is it needed?
  2. What will you need?
  3. Which varnish is best to use?
  4. Performance of a rented scraping machine
  5. Beginning of work
  6. How to cycle further?
  7. Floor cleaning
  8. Floor priming
  9. Applying varnish
  10. Final works

Old parquet has a worn or completely disappeared layer of varnish. Individual parquet boards may become deformed, interparquet seams may crumble, and potholes, cracks, and chips may appear. In such cases, restoration is required. Cycling the floor - bringing it to a condition close to new. To do this, the top layer is sanded (scraped) - the remaining varnish is removed and the surface is leveled.

When sanding is completed, the result should be a smooth parquet floor, not protected by a layer of varnish. Then the parquet is primed and varnished. The restoration of the old is completed, the surface is almost new.

What will you need for the job?

Manual scraping of parquet is less expensive, but takes much more time, so it is better to trust the technique. The main equipment includes a sanding machine and an angle grinder. For a sanding machine you will need sandpaper.

It should be taken in different grain sizes: for rough sanding work by hand, sandpaper with grain number 30 is more suitable, and for fine sanding, final stages– with grain number 120.

If the parquet is in poor condition and you have to restore it manually, you can purchase 60-grit sandpaper for better sanding.

For an angle grinder, you buy a grinding wheel for processing wood. The diameter should match the saw rotor. During operation, it may form a large number of wood dust and debris, so prepare the necessary tools in advance - a dustpan, a broom or brush, a vacuum cleaner.

Which varnish is best to use?

For home needs, the most preferable option is matte varnishes on water based. They are practically harmless, dry quickly and do not form a shiny surface. Semi-gloss varnishes are also used. The use of glossy varnishes is undesirable. Firstly, in bright, sunlit rooms, shiny surfaces give glare and reflections, which further strains vision. Secondly, such a coating is subject to rapid abrasion.

With an uneven load on the floor surface, abrasion will vary, which sooner or later will affect the appearance of the entire floor. Some places will remain fresh and shiny, while others will be slightly worn out. For example, there is relatively little movement at the edges of the room and in the corners, but intense movement in the central parts of the room.

Where can I get scraping equipment?

It is not necessary to buy a scraping machine. It will be much more effective to rent equipment from rental companies for several days. During this time, one or two craftsmen carry out the entire volume of work as in small room, and in the apartment as a whole.

Performance of the scraping machine

The rental company should check the car for its suitability for operation. First, pay attention to the rubber band of the drum. It should only be new. If the part shows signs of use, ask for a replacement. A worn out rubber band may break during use.

Then you need to make sure that the air passages are clean - they should not be clogged with debris.

Ask to attach a dust bag to the air duct and turn on the machine. This must be done carefully so that dust does not get into your eyes.

Electrical equipment and network load

The scraping machine has a lot of power and consumes a lot of energy. You need to make sure that the wiring in the apartment - sockets, internal and external cables, electrical extension cords - can withstand such a load. All electrical equipment is rated at 16 A. Otherwise, you will need to connect the car directly to the electrical panel in the entrance, bypassing the apartment wiring.

Preparing the premises for work

All objects and things located on the floor must first be removed from the room. Wall paintings, clocks, shelves are well protected from dust and debris. Sockets must be freed from other electrical appliances.

Then you begin to inspect the floor: the skirting boards are removed along the perimeter and the parquet is thoroughly cleaned. All objects made of metal and hard material, such as nails or screws, are removed. If these rules are not followed, there is a risk of tearing the rubber band of the drum when using a scraping machine.

Beginning of work

The correct technology for scraping parquet begins with the fact that a piece of coarse sandpaper is cut with scissors to fit the width and length of the drum circumference of the sanding machine with some margin and overlapped into the drum. Then a dust bag is tied with a rope.

The regulator sets the height of the drum above the floor. The smaller it is, the deeper the scraping of the floorboard goes, and the larger it is, the finer it is. If the floor has significant unevenness and potholes, then deep scraping is required on the first pass. Subsequently, the scraping is made finer.

The equipment is placed at the edge of the room and connected through extension cords. The principle of passages is as follows. The car is driven from one end of the room to the opposite. Then they return to the place where the scraping began, move it to the already covered width of the parquet and repeat everything. This is done until the entire room has been passed from one side to the opposite.

If the room is large, then more than once you will need to replace the sandpaper in the drum. The direction of scraping should be different from the direction of placing parquet flooring on the floor. Best option– angle 45 degrees.

Working with an angle grinder

After sanding the floorboard, you need to perform work in places that are inaccessible to a conventional machine. Such places include the edges of the room, its corners, parquet under heating radiators.

First, a disc is inserted into the angle grinder to sand the wood. The grinder has high shaft rotation speeds - about 11,000 rpm.

The disk must be positioned strictly parallel to the floor surface. If it is located at an angle to the parquet, then you can easily leave a deep scar on the floor. Such a mark is then extremely difficult to level with the rest of the surface.

Carrying out the floor putty process

You can use the most common wood glue. There is also a special putty for such work. If you use glue, after scraping you need to collect some sawdust from the floor and mix it well with the glue until a thick consistency is obtained.

Then, covering the entire area of ​​the room, rub the putty with a spatula into the cracks, holes and other irregularities in the floor that could not be cut off, and remove using a scraper. After completing the work, a pause is made to give the putty time to dry.

How to cycle further?

After puttying, they move on to sanding again. This time the drum of the machine is filled with fine-grained sandpaper and the entire floor is covered with it in the same way as the first time.

The only difference is the direction of scraping relative to the placement of the parquet itself. The directions of the parquet flooring and the sanding must match, as in the photo. At this stage, the final leveling of the entire floor area occurs. In addition, the surface is cleaned of excess putty mass. This final stage, which required the participation of a scraping machine.

Cleaning

The surface should be cleaned very carefully after sanding. To begin with, use a dustpan, broom or brush to collect all large debris - sawdust, wood chips, sandpaper scraps, putty residues, etc.

Then wait the time it takes for the dust to settle on the floor. Then use a vacuum cleaner to remove all dust from the floor. Only dry cleaning is carried out in the room, since wet cleaning can negatively affect the physical properties of the parquet.

Floor priming

You can use the inexpensive and familiar to many primer “Berezka”, or other universal or specially designed products for wood processing. Primer consumption can be read on the container. Treating the floor surface will make it harder and reduce the amount of varnish during further manipulations.

The primer is applied in the same way as paint - using a roller or brush, sequentially passing from one wall to another over the entire area of ​​the room. Upon completion of the work, you need to give the floor time to dry again.

Applying varnish

If there is a possible shortage of varnish to complete the work, it is quite acceptable to dilute it with the appropriate component - a solvent.

In this case, the applied layer becomes thinner, but this method will allow you to complete the work without purchasing an additional container. Apply the varnish using a regular brush. Further stages include sequential passage of all rooms - this is not difficult to do.

The floor is usually varnished twice. In this case, each layer must have time to dry completely. The entire room must be isolated from drafts during varnishing. The windows are closed. This will allow you to maintain the microclimate in the room at the same level, which will contribute to obtaining a better result in the end.

Final works

The last thing you need to do is to ventilate the room well. You can then bring in furniture and reopen wall items that remained wrapped up in the room during scraping.

The floor is the most used surface in a residential area. It is for this reason that the floor loses its quality faster than other surfaces. appearance and needs renovation. The biggest difficulty in repairing floor coverings is sanding parquet. But if you know the stages of this process and have the necessary tools, even a beginner can bring the parquet board into proper shape.

The process of scraping parquet is carried out with a special machine. It consists of several stages, including:

  • elimination of visible defects,
  • surface preparation for varnishing,
  • varnishing.

Once the work is completed, wooden parquet will regain its former beauty even after many years of use. Restored with my own hands parquet will become an even better decoration of the room.

Required tools and materials

Effective scraping of parquet is only possible with the help of special machine drum type, which can be rented
  • Drum type scraping machine(parquet sanding machine). This is expensive equipment that makes no sense to buy. An excellent option is to rent a car (cost about $20 per day for a sanding machine, $50 for a parquet sanding machine). Typically you need to rent a car for one day;
  • Equipment for scraping corners, called “boots”. Previously, the processing of corners was carried out exclusively by hand scrapers and Bulgarian ones with a special attachment. If “boots” are difficult to get, then you can use the old proven method;
  • Rolled sandpaper. You need an abrasive for rough processing (P40) and for grinding (P80 and P 120 depending on the type of wood);
  • Scissors for cutting sandpaper;
  • Keys for drum clamps(often included with the machine);
  • Vacuum cleaner.

Despite the fact that the dimensions of the scraping machine are quite compact and this tool can be transported in the trunk of a car, it is very heavy. The machine weighs about 70 kg, so when going to buy a tool, you should take this into account.

Stages of parquet scraping work

Stage No. 1. Preparation

The most important thing is to prepare the room for work.

All furniture that hangs on the walls should be covered with a film that will protect it from dust
  1. To do this, all the furniture that is on the floor is removed from it. Furniture that hangs on the walls needs to be protected from dust with film.
  2. After clearing the floor from furniture, it must be vacuumed and washed well.
  3. Next, examine the parquet for any falling out or loose tiles. If they are, then you need to find their place and glue it securely.
  4. The last step in preparation will be removing the baseboards.

In older homes, baseboards are often firmly nailed to the base. When dismantling such skirting boards, there is a high probability of damaging the parquet board. If you cannot carefully dismantle them, then it is better to leave such skirting boards in place.

Before starting work, it is also recommended to inspect the floor again to ensure there are no protruding nails. If they are noticed, they should be driven in or removed. You also need to check the condition of the wiring, because the machine requires up to 2.5 kW of energy, especially at the time of start-up.

Stage No. 2. Personal protection

Sanding parquet without dust is impossible. It is imperative to wear a respirator and goggles to protect yourself from small particles that will appear when working with the machine. Also earplugs to protect against noise.

Stage No. 3. Rough scraping


Rough sanding removes unevenness and possible contamination from the parquet floor.

Initially, rough sanding of the parquet is carried out. During this process, the varnish will be removed from the old parquet; if a new parquet is being processed, then rough sanding will eliminate unevenness and possible contamination. During this stage of work, a layer 5 mm thick will be removed from the wood.

Before starting work, you need to install a coarse sanding tape (P40, in rare cases P60 is required) on the machine drum. The first row must be walked diagonally across the room. Then move the machine half the width of the drum and make the next row. This is how the entire floor is sanded. If the sandpaper wears off, it must be replaced. If the floor is in very poor condition, up to three rough sanding cycles may be needed.

The machine has a special screw that allows you to adjust the pressure of the drum on the floor. If the engine is unable to dial required amount rpm, the pressure should be reduced. If it is noticed that the layer removed by the machine is too small, then the pressure should be increased.

Manual scraping

A hand scraper consists of a wooden handle and a sharpened steel plate that removes the top layer of wood

If for some reason it was not possible to rent a sanding machine, you can sand the floor with your hands. This will be a complex process that will take a lot of time. In the store you should purchase a hand scraper or a steel plate in the shape of the letter “L”. Optimal width manual scraper - 5 cm. This tool consists of a wooden handle and a sharpened steel plate that removes the top layer of wood. To make it easier to work with manual cycles, it is recommended to either stroke the parquet with a cloth or moisten it.

Stage No. 4. Grinding

At this stage of the work you will need P80 or P120 sandpaper. The first is suitable for heavily damaged parquet, and the second for treating regular flooring. When sanding, passes are made along the dies, that is, as if along the wooden fibers. A fine abrasive will remove scratches and stains from the surface from the previous stage of work, making the wood almost perfectly smooth.

Stage No. 5. Treatment of hard-to-reach places and corners


To scrape hard-to-reach places you will need a “boot” or a curb scraper

After sanding, untreated areas will remain along the walls and in the corners. It is almost impossible for a car to get into such narrow places. Here you will need a “boot” or a border scraper. If it is not there, then the old varnish is removed by hand scraping, and then processed using a grinder with a grinding attachment.

After sanding the entire floor, you can begin applying new varnish to the parquet. After the varnish has completely dried, the process of restoring the old parquet will be completely completed.

One day will be enough to scrape parquet in a regular-sized apartment. A special machine greatly simplifies the process of self-restoration of parquet, so preference should be given to this method.

Parquet board is natural material, which is superior to linoleum and laminate in terms of wear resistance. However, over time flooring loses its attractiveness, I want to take it apart and change it. Try scraping the parquet! In the article we will give advice on choosing equipment, tell you in detail about each stage of scraping, and also compare the cost of work on your own and with the assistance of a specialist.

When you shouldn’t scrape the floor – 7 typical cases

Floor sanding helps transform the appearance of parquet and save on dismantling costs. However, if your floor covering meets one of the signs that we will now list, scraping will not make sense:

  • the parquet board has dried out and the gaps are more than 5 mm;
  • the parquet swelled under the influence of moisture;
  • the passage areas are too worn out, the difference in the floor is noticeable to the naked eye;
  • there are deep potholes and chips on the surface;
  • the coating constantly gets wet from condensation vapors that come from below;
  • wood damaged by bark beetle or borer;
  • There is fungus and mold on the flooring and in the room.

All these reasons may have their own origins. Among the most common: non-compliance with floor laying techniques, a sharp jump in temperatures in the house, increased load on the coating, violation of operating rules. In all other cases, if the parquet board has lost its former shine, but is still in good condition, sanding the floor will be a suitable solution.

Equipment and materials – what will you need for quality work?

Floor sanding consists of several stages, each of which requires specific equipment and tools. Initially, the top layer of varnish is removed from the surface. This stage is called rough (deep) cleaning. To carry it out, a drum (belt) type grinding machine is used. The model received the greatest popularity in the Russian Federation and CIS countries SO-206. It is equipped with a rotating drum 20 cm wide, as well as a dust collector, which collects wood shavings with a layer of varnish and paint.

Flaw SO-206– sensitivity of drum rubber to mechanical damage. Therefore, before starting work, we carefully inspect the floor surface for the presence of nails, screws and other sharp objects which can damage the integrity of the rubber. In addition, you should firmly fix the sheet of sandpaper on the drum to prevent it from slipping and damaging the coating of the rotating element.

In addition to the domestic apparatus, good quality work is provided by the company's parquet sanding machines Lagler and models of the latest generation of Eurocycles Hummel.

After removing the top layer, a surface grinder with one or three discs is used for fine and finishing sanding. Such equipment helps to completely prepare the surface for the application of oil, tinting, paint and varnish. A surface grinder is used to process both old solid wood floors and new parquet. The quality of the equipment is also reflected in the price, which is approximately 5 times higher than the cost of a drum-type machine. Among surface grinding models, professionals prefer a three-disc machine Lagler Trio.

For working in hard-to-reach places near the wall, in corners, under the battery, where normal grinding machines cannot be reached, angle grinders (angle grinders) or “boots” are used. The working element is equipped with an abrasive wheel with Velcro, and there is a dust collector on the side or a hole for the hose of a construction vacuum cleaner, which guarantee dust-free work. Experts recommend a domestic model for hard-to-reach places SO-401, as well as German analogues Lagler Flip and Elan.

In addition to sanding equipment, you will also need a construction vacuum cleaner. It is a construction one, not a household one, since you have to work with wood dust and paint waste. Vacuuming ensures high-quality varnish coverage.

We've sorted out the equipment, now about the materials for work. You will need:

  • sandpaper of varying degrees of grit (No. 40,60,80, 100–120), the amount of material depends on the area and thickness of the varnish that needs to be sanded;
  • floor putty, consumption also depends on the area;
  • varnish or oil at the rate of 5 kg per 10 m2 area;
  • rubber spatula for spreading putty, rollers and brushes for applying varnish.

The cost of services from a specialist and on your own – which is cheaper?

If you order a parquet scraping service from a specialist, remember - the more expensive and better the equipment, the higher the price for the work. Also, the cost of the project will depend on the list of services. Let's figure out what will cost you less - call a specialist or rent equipment and do everything yourself? Let's find out everything using the example of the cost of standard parquet processing.

Here is an approximate list of services that are included in such processing:

  • removing the old layer of varnish;
  • elimination of floor differences;
  • grinding hard-to-reach places;
  • sealing cracks with putty;
  • covering the clean floor with a triple layer of varnish;
  • interlayer manual sanding.

The average cost of such a list of services in Moscow costs 500 rubles/m2, so it is easy to calculate the final price, taking into account the floor area. Let’s take 18 m2 as the basis for the calculation, the total amount will be 9,000 rubles. To do the same job yourself, you will need to rent equipment. Here is the standard set:

  • scraping machine SO-206;
  • Bosch angle grinder for hard to reach places;
  • construction vacuum cleaner.

Renting such a kit will cost, on average, 1,500 rubles/day. Plus you will also have to pay a deposit - 15,000 rubles. And if you want to carry out final polishing, you will have to take a surface grinder separately ( Lagler Trio), which will cost 1,700 rubles/day. and 30,000 rubles deposit. An additional bag for a vacuum cleaner is another 200 rubles and sandpaper is 150–180 rubles. Considering that scraping and intermediate work will take an average of 2–3 days, the total amount excluding expenses for Consumables(putty, paint, varnish) will cost from 3,000 to 4,500 rubles, and if you want to polish the floor before varnishing not by hand, but with a surface grinder, it will cost another 3,400–5,100 rubles. In addition, you will have to pay a considerable deposit from 15,000 to 45,000 rubles and take into account the costs of transporting equipment, unless the company provides free delivery within the city.

If you still decide to try your hand at scraping, do the following when renting the equipment:

  • carefully read the clauses of the lease agreement, paying attention Special attention a column about fines in case of breakdown and damage to equipment;
  • check the functionality of the equipment, smooth adjustment, and compliance with the kit - in addition to the scraping machine and additional accessories, it must contain rotary key, dust collector, extension cord;
  • carefully inspect the devices, check their integrity, especially the electrical parts.

Preparing the floor surface and protective equipment for yourself

We clear the room of furniture and foreign objects, dismantle the baseboard. If the baseboard is too old and nailed tightly to the floor, you can leave it so as not to pull the floor covering with it. We glue the torn boards and carry out light repairs to get rid of creaks and sagging. Do not wash the floor before sanding! Next, we inspect the surface for the presence of protruding nails and screws. We remove them or drive them into the floor so that they do not damage the rubber drum and abrasive.

Also, before starting work, make sure that the electrical wiring is in good condition and the voltage in the network is correct. If there are any problems, we fix them. Sanding machines have enough high power, so it’s worth playing it safe once again to avoid fire. When working with old wiring, we recommend using an additional power stabilizer or generator. We prepare an extension cord for comfortable movement around the room. Let's not forget about following safety rules. It is prohibited to use open fire during scraping.

To protect the mucous membrane of the nasopharynx and eyes from wood dust, we wear a respirator and safety glasses. Even though you use a dust collector, it will still leak out in small amounts. We recommend wearing earplugs, as grinding machines create increased level noise. We work in old clothes.

Rough cleaning of parquet with a sander

We begin scraping with a cleaning lip - removing the paint layer and the top part of the wood, which has become unusable over the years. To do this, we use a drum-type sanding machine, for example SO-206. We put sandpaper of the desired grit on the drum. We recommend starting cleaning with No. 40. We walk the machine along the laying line. We gradually move towards the wall and process the surface along the walls, then return back. If the parquet is laid in a circle, we move the sanding machine in a spiral. We recommend starting work from the far corners, moving towards the aisle.

Attention! We lower and raise the drum handle only while moving, otherwise potholes will form on the surface of the parquet, which, after coating with varnish, will reveal themselves in all their glory.

The degree of pressing of the ram to the floor is also regulated with a special screw. If you see that the abrasive removes a very thin layer, increase the pressure. If the layer is too thick, we reduce the speed and loosen the screw. As the sandpaper wears down, change it to a sheet of #60 grit. When there will be no more on the surface visible traces old coating, the rough cleaning stage is considered completed. We pour the garbage collected in the dust collector into a separate bag or container.

Processing hard-to-reach areas and fine grinding

The rough cleaning of the main part of the parquet is completed, but there are still traces of the old varnish in the corners, under the radiator and near the walls. We remove them using an angle grinder (“boot”). We put on sandpaper with a grit of 40 or 60. Moving from the edges to the center, remove visible residues in a circular motion, return to reverse side. When the color of the floor becomes uniform in the middle and in the corners, rough cleaning can be considered completely finished.

Next comes fine sanding. To carry it out you will need a surface grinder, preferably with three rotary discs, like Lagler Trio. This equipment will help get rid of burrs and irregularities that remain after rough cleaning and make the floor smooth. We carry out sanding alternately with sandpaper No. 60, 80 and 100. We go over the surface with three different abrasives. We drive the car forward and backward. We change the sandpaper as it wears out.

Sealing cracks with putty and finishing polishing

Before starting the next stage, collect wood dust and debris construction vacuum cleaner. We have removed the old varnish, cleaned the surface, time to seal the cracks. To do this, we use a special putty paste matched to the tone of the board. You can also add clean wood dust, which we collected during fine cleaning, to the liquid component. To get the most even surface possible, we recommend treating the entire surface with putty. Filling only chips, cracks and holes will not give you the same result as when completely leveling the floor. To distribute the putty, use a rubber spatula. Apply leveling paste to all cracks between the boards and on the surface.

When the putty dries slightly and remains soft, but will no longer stick to your hands, we simulate the joints between parquet boards using an awl and a metal ruler. After this, we wait until the putty is completely dry and do the final finishing sanding with a surface sander using No. 100 sandpaper. We reduce the pressure of the drum to the floor to a minimum, and move the machine in the direction of the wood fibers. After running your hand across the floor, the surface should be completely smooth. At this point you can finish the final polishing and proceed to the final stage of sanding - varnishing the parquet.

Coating parquet with varnish – giving the surface a long-awaited shine

Here it is final stage work. Before carrying it out, we again go over the surface with a construction vacuum cleaner. Here this step is especially important, since if you do not collect dust and dirt particles from the surface that formed after the final sanding, they will remain under the varnish layer and spoil the appearance of the parquet. Depending on the desired level of gloss, apply varnish in 3 or 4 layers.

In order for the varnish to adhere better to the surface, we recommend additionally applying a primer and, if necessary, tinting.

The varnish is applied to the surface in a thin layer using a roller. Application with a roller prevents uneven distribution of the composition and ensures rapid polymerization. After the first layer of varnish has completely dried, we recommend interlayer polishing with a surface grinder or angle grinder, removing raised wood fibers. For interlayer grinding We use sandpaper No. 100 or 120. After polishing, we go over the surface again with a construction vacuum cleaner and apply the remaining layers of varnish. The final layer of varnish has dried, we go through it with a vacuum cleaner one last time. All is ready!

Parquet is always a stylish and luxurious interior. And its environmental friendliness and aesthetic appearance are a clear advantage. But during operation, the coating wears out, it loses its shine, scratches, abrasions and cracks appear. Sanding is a technology for leveling parquet using the scraping method. It can be done either manually or using special equipment.

During the sanding process, a small layer of wood is removed. Homemade parquet can withstand up to 7 procedures. Before starting work, you need to make sure that the floor needs to be sanded.

To do this, carefully inspect the floor for the presence:

  • Dry and swollen areas;
  • Potholes and chips;
  • Presence of wood beetle;
  • The thickness of the strip, if it is thinner than 5 mm, is not subject to scraping.

To check the thickness and quality of the dies, you need to insert an awl between the floorboards. If it penetrates between the boards at an angle greater than 40 degrees, the boards are rotted or damaged by insects. You also need to make sure the wood floor is dry. For this small area covered with plastic film, pressed down with bars. The structure is left for a day. If condensation appears under the film, then the dies are wet and fungus may spread. This coating must be dismantled and properly equipped with waterproofing.

Detecting a bug is quite easy. Upon examination wooden covering you can see small holes, next to which there are small piles of shavings.

If the above problems are detected, the procedure is not carried out. Relay the parquet or replace damaged areas. If the nail heads stick out, they are driven into the dies. Creaking hardwood floors can be eliminated by driving a wooden dowel with glue between the floorboards. The protruding piece is cut off flush with the floor.

Parquet scraping machines

Floor scraping is labor-intensive work. Special scraping machines will help facilitate and speed up the process. Grinding machines there are tape and disk design. The first type is used for rough stripping. A disc surface grinder finishes the coating. With its help you can achieve professional quality work.

Modern sanding machines have a connection for connecting a dust collector, which greatly facilitates the work.

Depending on the volume of coverage, the unit is selected. Large rooms require a serious device, preferably with 3 removable drives. For medium and small apartments will do manual typewriter. It is not necessary to buy equipment. Modern hardware stores often offer tool rental services. By using this service you can save money and speed up the scraping process. When renting a unit, make sure it is in working order on site. The scraping machine is quite heavy, but its dimensions allow you to place the device in the trunk. Machine models are divided by power from 220 to 380 Volts. To work with devices, you must follow safety precautions.

The process of scraping parquet with your own hands

Sanding machines will help you quickly and efficiently sand a wooden surface. In addition to the equipment, you will need to purchase sandpaper No. 40 for roughing, No. 80 for finishing, No. 100, 120 for finishing sanding, as well as replacement discs for the unit and putty to eliminate defects. When scraping the floor using the hardware method, you must follow safety precautions. Before the procedure, it is necessary to check the quality of the electrical wiring.

For the best result, the machine must be driven smoothly and evenly across the entire floor, avoiding stopping in one place, otherwise you can remove too much of a layer and create a strong drop. Before starting work, lift the machine, turn it on and wait until the machine picks up speed. Then they lower it smoothly and begin grinding. For the machine, a special piece of sandpaper is used, which is threaded along the arrow indicated on the machine.

Scraping technology:

  • It is necessary to install coarse sandpaper No. 40 into the machine and start the machine;
  • The grinder is cycled hard to reach places under radiators and baseboards;
  • Next, work is carried out from the far wall to a passable place;
  • The dust collector is emptied as soon as the bag is full;
  • Use an angle grinder to process the corners and remove the remaining small varnish stains;
  • Putty is made, to which some parquet dust is mixed for color and chips and cracks are covered;
  • After the putty has dried, the coating is treated with sandpaper No. 80 perpendicular to the first run.
  • Next, the surface grinder is driven with 120 abrasive for finishing work.

After the work is completed, the surface of the wooden floor is covered with varnish or mastic.

Manual scraper for parquet

You can scrape a parquet floor manual method using a special device. A hand scraper consists of a wooden handle and a 5 cm long blade. The floor is pre-moistened and the top layer of wooden covering is removed. You only need to spend money on a scraper, however manual method very labor intensive. It will take a lot of effort and time.

The blade blade should be 10 - 20 mm wider than the die to prevent scratches and chips during operation.

It is better to start looping from window to door. The scraper should be driven in the direction of the wood fibers. You should press the tool with the same force, and try to grab not one, but several dies. Grinding of difficult areas is done using a grinder with a special attachment. After treating the parquet with putty, all chips and cracks are covered. Next, you need to do final sanding, which is carried out only on a dry floor. To complete it you will need wooden block 25 cm long and sandpaper No. 100 or 120. You need to wrap the beam with sandpaper. Then move the resulting device along the floor in a circular motion, kneeling down. The work should be done carefully to wipe out all small scratches.

You can use another method. TO old shoes glue the sandpaper sheets and begin to smoothly rub the floor, checking the quality of the sandpaper from time to time. Cleaning the floor will take time, but if done correctly, a smooth floor will please the eye. After all the work has been completed, the floors are vacuumed and the coating begins to be varnished. The varnish is applied in 3 layers. There is no need to rush; each layer must dry. Before applying the 3rd coat of varnish, the floor should be sanded again with fine sandpaper.

Proper scraping of parquet with your own hands (video)

Spectacular and glossy parquet will become the pride of the owners and emphasize the design and luxury of the entire interior of the room. You just need to put in a little effort and diligence.

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Over time, wood floors wear down unevenly, with some areas being more damaged than others. In addition, the surface darkens and loses its attractive appearance, but sanding a wooden floor with your own hands can transform the surface, it will become like new.

The process involves removing the top layer of wood and let’s look at how the work is carried out and what equipment will be needed.

Necessary equipment and tools

Work can only be performed if all the required equipment is available:

Parquet sanding machine In common parlance it is called a scraping machine, there is no point in purchasing such a device, it is much easier to rent it for 1-2 days, the price of this service is low, and you can carry out the work without high installation costs, which will be used no more than once every five years
Angle grinder for parquet This is a compact device that is designed for treating areas near walls, corners and other hard-to-reach places. Without this tool it is difficult to ensure high quality works, so you also need to rent it
Manual scraper A simple device, which is a special scraper that will help you get into the most inaccessible places, because even a compact machine cannot process corners
Consumables For the equipment you will need sandpaper with coarse, medium and fine grains, you will also need a remover to remove the old paint layer and a brush to apply it

Important! To clean the surface, you will need a vacuum cleaner, since it can be used to efficiently remove dust and dirt, and final processing is done with a damp cloth.

Workflow Description

If all necessary tool already in stock, you can start preparatory work, this stage is very important, since it determines how quickly and efficiently the main stage will be carried out.

Preparation

Before scraping a wooden floor, you need to carry out a number of works:

  • First of all, the room is cleared of furniture and other objects that may interfere with work. It is also advisable to remove paintings and curtains, as a lot of dust is generated during the processing process. If there are structures that cannot be removed, they must be covered with a special film.
  • If there are linings at the threshold, then it is better to remove them so that you can sand the entire surface; the same applies to baseboards. Next, all dirt is removed by wet cleaning, and you can begin the inspection.
  • Removing paint from the floor with your own hands can be done in several ways, but the most common are the following two options: using construction hair dryer, with which the surface is heated, and then the layer is removed with a scraper or spatula; the second solution is to use a special chemical composition, which softens the old coating, which is then removed with a spatula. If necessary, the treatment is repeated in problem areas.