Now I will install the extension on this door. The accessory will be telescopic. For those who don't know, here it is in cross-section.
This is the groove. There is a groove in the additional strip. And on the cash there is this thorn. Cashing has this profile.
Why was this done? When we place an additional amount, the cash is inserted into it. And we can adjust the distance within this pass. About one and a half centimeters.
Now, if for example, this distance is not 8 centimeters, like here. And there from 5 to 15 millimeters, we can cash out immediately without additional charges. This box is certainly not telescopic. This door has been installed for a long time. This simple box. In general, telescopic boxes contain passes here. Immediately so that the cash can be mounted there.
Where do I start installing the addition. First I saw off to height. First I end up at the bottom, then I make a mark here stationery knife and sawed it off 1 millimeter shorter.
Then, I take a square and measure this distance from the box to the edge. And add more depth to the groove. In this case it is 1 centimeter. And I make markings on back side. Here's the line.
Well, here we need to take into account that you need to saw off from the side where it will be inserted into the box. Because this region cannot be spoiled. Well, here I expect the additional strip to be about a couple of millimeters less than the plane of the wall itself. Because it doesn't matter here. I can adjust these 2-3, even 5 millimeters with this cashing spike. If there are ordinary additional strips, then on the contrary, I make the width of the additional strip 1 millimeter larger. For what? So that there is enough cash in any case. And you need to measure. The walls are not always level, so I measure at several points. Well, at about 4. Up, somewhere here and down.
If the wall is approximately flat, you can do it at 3 points. And thus I adjust the left and right additional strips. Then I mount the top one on top of them, directly on them. I saw off the whole thing with a jigsaw. Can circular saw some kind of parquet or mini-circular. I mark the top bar like this.
Here I place it like this, so that this edge of it is before the beginning of the groove. Here I also mark, right in the groove. Just a knife and that's it. Then I turn it over and put it in like this. And here we make marks as if in width. Because there are different left and right edges. This is how we make marks. Here and here. Like this.
And then I draw and cut.
Installation of the extension
So, now that all our inlaid planks are prepared, sawed off, we install them in place.
This is where the plane coincides. I check it with my fingers.
So, here is a right angle and up to the groove. This is what we get.
Like this. Why do we need to do this here? So that when we insert cash, nothing sticks out here or gets in the way. And this corner will tighten up, and that’s how it will be. Here he is.
That's how it should be. This plane also coincides. Here she is. Here too. Everything matches.
In the case when, for example, a gap forms in this corner. Well, there is no foam, for example, to rest against. This is where I drill and screw in screws. They seem to be a stop, and they prop up this entire corner. That's all. Now we will install them. To do this, I will first wet this thing so that the foam will move away better. It expands more evenly.
Because foam expands when exposed to moisture. So, let's take the foam. And with these cakes I go through the entire perimeter.
Now I take the wide masking tape from me. And I fix the gain. I make sure that there is a right angle.
And so on around the entire perimeter. This is how I recorded it all. After about one hour, you can already withdraw everything and put it in cash. I will also do the same procedure on this side. From the edge and from above. That's it, the supplies will be ready. This fastening is quite enough. There is no load here. No mechanical fastening is required here. All this stuff is ready. You can say it will freeze now and that’s it. Propenil, fixed it.
Why do I do it with dots like this and not all over? Two reasons. Firstly, saving foam. Secondly, there is a guarantee that the extensions will not be squeezed out by an arc. Because the foam has room to expand into free space. That's all. The selection is done. This is done briefly within 10-15 minutes. Now I'll do some additional work on the other door. During this time, the foam will cool down and you can start cashing out.
Cashing installation
Our selection has frozen. I trimmed the foam and removed the tape. Now I will bet cash. But I will place it here at an angle of 45 degrees.
In general, telescopic cashers are installed, as a rule, cut like this at a right angle here. And from above the cash goes here, like this.
But, since this door has cashing already installed like this. This means that you need to do the same on this side too. How to mark. So I take it and put a half-mark here with a knife. Like this. That's it, I'll cut it here and here.
I put the top one first. Then I also place the vertical ones overlapping like this. This is how I put it and make a mark. This is how she stands, for example. And I did it again.
So once again I put a mark. Here she is, you can barely see her. And I cut everything off. First, of course, you need to trim the bottom, and then I applied liquid nails here on this edge. Right here. Here on this road edge, like this.
Here, here and along the entire length. And I'll slam her. Because if you glue the entire groove. This glue will fill everything, and it will be almost impossible to remove it. It’s already tight there and you just need to fix it a little. You can apply glue here. Directly on the wall, several points. This will be enough.
We put everything in. Maybe a little between them.
We install everything.
So, this is what we got in the end. This is the corner.
Here you can tint it with a pencil so that the seam is not visible. It won't rush into the gas too much. And here it is, that's all. Everything is clear and beautiful. Now I’ll show you how to do the markings. Here I put it, the knife like this.
All. There is a mark. Now we take the mark like this, here. And we hold the knife at a right angle and move it. That's it, now you need to cut it diagonally. That's it, it goes to trimming. The truth here is that because there is a groove, it becomes crooked. I'm just placing a piece of wood here to the thickness of this distance.
I put it here and it sits evenly. And I saw off.
Well, this is what we got in the end. Such a bonus. Black, hard to see, well, nothing. Now I'll show you up close.
Everything is tight, everything is smooth, no cracks. This is the node. That's it, the door is absolutely ready.
All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev
What are extras? Why are they needed during installation? interior doors? What types of extensions are there by type of edge and method of fastening? How are extras installed? We will examine these and other questions in detail in this material.
We usually tell clients “If your wall thickness is more than 7 cm, then you will need extensions.” To independently determine whether your doorway needs extensions, you should measure the doorways correctly.
How to determine the number of extras?
Almost all door manufacturers sell extensions standard width- 100, 150 and 200 mm, and the door frame is almost always 70 mm wide. All this means that before installing the extensions, they need to be sawed lengthwise to give them the desired width.
For example, if your wall thickness is 90 mm, then it turns out that you will definitely need an additional 25 mm wide to the box. (about 5 mm is needed to insert the extension into the groove of the box) But extensions of this width are not sold, so we buy an extension 100 mm wide and saw off a 25 mm strip along each edge of the extension.
As a result, we will be left with another strip of extension (middle) 45 mm wide (5 mm was spent on cuts), which, theoretically, can also be used on the top of the box, but in practice this is not done, especially if the extensions have edged edges, i.e. e. the end of the extension has the same coating as the front part of the extension.
Extensions, without edgings, mainly have only veneered doors because... veneer (a thin slice of wood) is an inelastic, brittle material and it is impossible to bend it at a right angle without breaking it. Therefore, almost all veneered panels do not have an edge. Extensions with artificial coatings (Laminate, PVC, Eco-veneer, Laminate) have edged ends. In addition, like door frames or platbands, extensions can also be simple or telescopic.
Types of end additions
Let's return to our example with cutting the extensions with a wall thickness of 90 mm. For this case, you will need 1.5 sticks of extras. From one stick (board) of the extension we make two extensions, sawing it into pieces, and from 0.5 extension we also saw off a piece of the required width and place it on the top of the box.
As a result, it turns out that if our wall thickness is from 70 to 90 mm, then we will not need a full set of extensions (2.5 sticks), but 1.5 sticks with a width of 100 mm will be enough. If the wall thickness is from 90 to 165 mm, then you will need a complete set of extensions - 2.5 sticks with a width of 100 mm.
Table 1: Complete set of accessories for doorways under interior doors. The required number of extensions for each case of doorway wall thickness.
Standard width options
| Wall thickness in mm | 100 cm | 150 cm | 200 cm |
| from 70 to 90 | 1.5 | - | - |
| from 90 to 165 | 2.5 | - | 1.5 |
| from 165 to 215 | - | 2.5 | - |
| from 215 to 265 | - | - | 2.5 |
Telescopic extensions and their features
As mentioned above, extensions come with and without edges. There is also a third type of edge: the end of the extension has a slot. These are telescopic extensions that are designed for installing telescopic platbands.
What features do telescopic extensions have? For example, if the thickness of the wall in the doorway is 800 mm, then there is an opportunity to save: buy doors with telescopic components, and you won’t have to buy additional accessories because we will cover the missing 10 mm with a telescopic platband due to the fact that it can be pulled out of the groove of the box by 5 mm on each side door frame.
Although telescopic moldings cost almost one and a half times more than simple ones, in our case we not only exclude the cost of additional parts, but also the cost of their installation. In addition, if the telescopic extension has to be sawed in half, then attaching it to the box will be more difficult, because you will have to prepare the box for collection, which will also entail additional costs.
Some manufacturers make the extensions one-sided, i.e. cutout for telescopic trim on one side only. When cutting the extension to the required width, this of course makes it easier to attach the extension to the box, but the downside is that such extensions will always have to be purchased in a complete set according to quantity, because They cannot be cut into two parts.
What if the walls are wide?
As a rule, the doorway in brick houses or in load-bearing wall can be more than 300 mm thick. In this case, it is better to simpler and cheaper to decorate the doorway to match the wall (paste it with wallpaper or paint it) and not install extensions. The downside is that the unprotected corners of this opening risk rapid damage. Therefore, the extensions are installed throughout the entire opening and decorated with platbands on both sides. There are two ways to solve this problem:
1. Close the end of the doorway with solid panels. Many door manufacturers make wall panels or additional shields. Essentially these are the same extensions about a meter wide. In addition, you can order extensions of the required width, but only in multiples of 100 mm. As a last resort, you can buy wall panels from another manufacturer, selecting them by color.
2. Close the end of the doorway with joined panels. If, for example, the wall thickness is 30 cm, then you can take two sets of extensions 10 and 15 cm wide and join them, filing one of the sets in width. It is especially good to join telescopic extensions using a glazing bead.
INTERIOR DOORS WITH EXTENSIONS >>>Installation of accessories
The extras are installed when assembling the box. First, we assemble the box, and then the extensions sawn to the required width are attached to the box using special mounting plates short self-tapping screws. Thus, the extensions with the door frame become one. This entire structure is mounted in the doorway.
It is not recommended to install the door frame separately, and then the wide extensions separately, because securely fastening the extensions to the frame will be problematic. If you glue it or don’t attach it at all, then over time the panels may come away from the box, forming a gap. Separately, you can install extensions with a width of no more than 50 mm.
You can install extensions for interior doors yourself. The materials needed for this are inexpensive, and necessary tools Even a novice home craftsman will find them.
Accessories for interior doors: what they look like and what they are needed for
Extensions (additional boards) are wooden planks or MDF panels that cover door slopes. Such slopes are formed if the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. As a result, the box does not cover the entire end of the wall and bare concrete or broken bricks are visible. Sometimes this area is plastered, covered with wallpaper, covered with plastic, but it is easier, faster and more aesthetically pleasing to install extensions.
Design of a door block using extensions
Unlike ordinary slopes, additional boards seem to continue the missing width of the box itself, forming a single structure with it. In order not to make a mistake with the tone, extras are purchased at the same time as door leaf and cash.
Benefits of use
- Right established fees they look presentable and, depending on the overall style decision, bring an element of wealth and luxury or restraint and solidity to the interior.
- The extensions are attached simply and quickly, which saves time, effort and money.
- During finishing work door block does not come into contact with wet solutions, which prevents it from getting wet and deteriorating. The service life of the door increases.
The finished design looks beautiful and modern
You can make the extensions yourself or buy ready-made ones. The store will offer additional trim strips in standard sizes:
- length - 2.1 m;
- width - 7–25 cm;
- thickness - 6–30 mm.
To calculate the width of the additional strip, add the depth of the groove in the box to the width of the slope, or subtract the width of the box from the thickness of the wall, taking into account the groove.
With particularly thick walls, the width of the extension can reach 40 cm or more, but such planks are made to order. The thickness of the additional strip should not exceed the width of the groove in the door frame.
Based on design features, additional strips are divided into:
- ordinary;
- ordinary with edged ends;
- telescopic.
The simplest addition is a straight strip of fiberboard (MDF) or laminate without a facing edge. Many craftsmen believe that gluing facing edges to the ends is a waste of time and money. After all, one end fits snugly against the door frame, and the second will be covered with a platband. But in this case, the installation must be done with special care, because a deviation of even a couple of millimeters will give away a novice master: the gray untreated edge will be striking.
The simplest addition is a regular bar
If the end of the trim is previously covered with an edge tape matched tone to tone, minor flaws will be invisible. The edge itself costs a penny, and you can stick it on in a few minutes using a regular iron. This method is also preferable because edging the ends prevents the MDF board from swelling under the influence of moisture. This is especially true for door units in kitchens and bathrooms.
A more advanced additional strip is distinguished by the presence of an edge at the ends
Most complex design at the telescopic accessory. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. Moreover, it is almost impossible to miss: the extension fits perfectly with the box and trim. The width of the extension is adjusted by the depth of the groove. To make a telescopic extension yourself, you will need certain skills and a special tool. It's easier to buy ready-made planks.
The telescopic door panel has special recesses
Required tools and materials
When installing extensions, a minimum set of tools is used:
- level;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- saw or jigsaw;
- plane;
- hammer;
- sharp knife.
Required materials:
- polyurethane foam;
- fasteners (screws, nails or “liquid nails”);
- additional strips.
As a rule, extensions are purchased together with the door leaf, but if the doors are not going to be replaced, but only plan to close the slopes, for the manufacture of extensions they use:
- wooden planks;
- pieces of MDF;
- long pieces of chipboard;
- plastic.
If applicable natural wood, to extend its service life, it is pre-treated with antiseptic impregnations.
Homemade additions made from ordinary MDF will differ from factory ones, since in industrial designs the interior between two thin wood-fiber boards is filled with cellular material.
Chipboards are inferior to wood and MDF in appearance and durability, but chipboard boards can be used indoors.
Plastic is rarely used as a material for making accessories. And if it is still used, then especially durable, metal-reinforced PVC panels are chosen.
Extensions can be made from natural wood, chipboard, MDF panels or plastic
Installation of additional strips
Installation in groove
If you plan to use extensions, then it is better to buy a door frame with a special groove. The presence of a groove not only speeds up the installation process, but also allows you to extend/retract the additional strip into the frame by a few millimeters, which increases the accuracy of installation.
- It is assumed that by the time the extensions are installed, the door frame is already secured in the doorway. Therefore, first measure the distance from the door frame to the edge of the wall. All slopes are measured separately and each at a minimum of four points. As a rule, these indicators differ: even if the box is installed strictly vertically, the wall itself may be uneven.
It is convenient to take measurements using a construction square
- The depth of the groove in the door frame is added to the width of the slope. The resulting value determines the width of the additional strip.
- Using a jigsaw or saw, trim the extensions in length and width to required sizes.
Additional strips are purchased with a margin of width, and precise adjustments are made during the installation process
- The extensions are installed in the grooves of the door frame.
Design of a door block using conventional fittings
- If telescopic extensions are used, then the door frame and platbands must also be telescopic. The entire block is assembled like a construction set, inserting the protrusions of some elements into the recesses of others. For strength, additional strips and trims are placed on glue or “liquid nails”. The structure assembled in this way looks like one whole.
When installing telescopic extensions, the “tenon and groove” method is used.
- The upper horizontal panel lies on the side ones, forming the letter P.
The top panel lies on the side panels at a right angle
- To ensure the immovability of the extensions, they are temporarily attached to the walls and box with masking adhesive tape.
- Eliminate voids formed between the additional strip and the wall, filling the gaps polyurethane foam. As a rule, spacers are installed between the extensions. If there are no spacers, the gap is foamed in several stages so that an overly saturated layer of foam does not squeeze the extensions inward doorway.
The gap between the wall and the extension is filled with foam
- They wait several hours and after the foam has hardened, cut off the excess with a knife.
The use of foam during installation allows you to do without nails and screws
Installation without groove
If there is no special groove in the door frame, the extensions are attached end-to-end. Such installation requires very precise (up to a millimeter) measurements, careful adjustment of additional strips and special care during installation.
- Measure the width of the slopes using the same method as when installing extensions in the groove.
- Trim the additional strips to the required size. If there are extra millimeters left after sawing, they are cut off with a plane.
- Glue onto the resulting sections edge tape. To do this, the edge is ironed with a hot iron, as a result of which the glue on the back side melts and the tape is firmly attached to the bar.
The edge is glued using an iron
- Thin nails are driven halfway into the ends of the extensions in increments of 20–25 cm. If additional glue is used, three nails are enough for the vertical extension and one (in the middle) for the horizontal.
- Nail heads are bitten off at an angle to ensure a sharp end.
Nails are hammered into the end of the extension and the heads are bitten off
- Install the extensions in place - first the side strips, then the top. The vertical extension is pressed tightly at the bottom, slammed down and finished off with a hammer so that the nail fits into the door frame. Then they nail the middle, then the top. Make sure that there are no gaps between the panels and the box.
- The upper horizontal bar is placed on the vertical ones, the right angle is checked and nailed with a hammer.
After installing the extensions, the nails are not visible
- The gaps between the wall and the extension are foamed in the same way as when installing the extensions in the groove.
Installation of platbands
After the extensions are installed and the mounting foam has dried, the trims are attached.
- Measure the height of the side strips. To do this, add the width of the upper casing to the height of the doorway.
The length of the vertical casing is calculated taking into account the width of the horizontal
- They saw down the top of the right casing at an angle of 45 degrees so that the edge of the plank that will be adjacent to the trim is shorter.
A miter box will help you cut the casing at an angle of exactly 45 degrees.
- Also at an angle of 45 degrees, but in a mirror image, the top of the left casing is filed down.
- The excess length is sawed off from the trim.
- The vertical trims are installed in place and each is attached to two nails - at the bottom and in the middle.
- Apply the top casing and make markings.
It is advisable to bite off the heads of the nails. So they will be almost invisible
If self-tapping screws are used instead of nails, then first drill a hole into which the head will sink. Then they are screwed in, and the caps are closed with special plastic plugs.
Installing extensions for interior doors yourself is not difficult, although the process cannot be called quick. But if everything is done correctly, the new door block will become the main decoration of the room.
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
Today I will tell you how I installed MDF trims and trims. All photographs were taken during the work in my apartment, I also shot a video of the process so that you can understand it as best as possible. In my opinion, the work is not difficult, and the main thing that is required is accuracy and precision so as not to spoil the materials.
Workflow
I divided all the work into 3 parts:
- Preparation of materials and openings;
- Cutting and fastening of extensions;
- Cutting and fastening the platband.
Let's consider all the stages in order.
Stage 1 – preparation
To work we need the following:
- Platband in required quantity, the calculation is usually carried out in the store;
- Extensions of the right size. Here it should be noted that the elements are sold in the form, which must be cut in half when used. It is important to correctly measure the width to be closed in order to purchase what you need.
From the tool I used the following:
- A tape measure and a square for marking, and a tape measure for measuring all the required parameters;
- A jigsaw for cutting works best using special blades with small tooth sizes, they provide ideal quality of work and do not leave burrs on the ends;
- Knife for cutting off excess foam around door frames.
As part of the preparation, it is necessary to carry out one more important work, cut the foam so that it is flush with the wall surface. The work is simple, you need a knife with a sharp blade, with its help the excess is cut and removed, it is important to do the work carefully and not cut the foam deep, keep the blade parallel to the wall.
Stage 2 – installation of extensions
Additional elements are placed on the side of the box where it is recessed into the opening. That is, on one side our structure is flush with the wall, and on the other we need to install additional spacers.
The workflow consists of the following steps:
- The length of the products is measured; for this, the edge of the tape measure is inserted into the groove, and the tape is lowered to the level along which the bottom of the element will pass;
- The extension dissolves into two parts; you need to cut it in the middle of the groove so that you end up with two units that we will use. You can mark the cutting line, or you can do without it;
- After the panels are unraveled, we need to cut the element to the length we require. The main thing is to mark the plank correctly and cut it smoothly (when marking, use a square);
- The product prepared in this way is aligned along the top edge and carefully hammered into the groove to the level we need. No hammers or other tools needed back side palms everything turns out much faster. The element on the second side is also installed;
- After installing the side elements, the size of the upper part is measured and a piece of the required size is cut. When installing, make sure that the extension is level and the system is not distorted;
Stage 3 - installation of platband
The platband, unlike the extension, is installed on both sides of the opening, so the work takes more time and consists of the following actions:
- First of all, the length of the side elements is measured. Everything here is the same as with extensions - you need the length from the groove to the base;
Always check the ends of the platband, all of our strips were cut crookedly, and I had to cut the elements not on one, but on both sides to get the ideal geometry of the products.
- The side elements are put in place, there is no particular difference from which side the work is carried out, the main thing is to align the platband exactly along the top part, after which it is also hammered in with the palm of your hand until it stops, a very strong connection is obtained without the use of glue and nails;
- Once the side pieces are installed, you can measure the width of the top bar. It is very important to determine the size accurately, it depends on appearance blocks, any inaccuracies will be very clearly visible;
- A piece of the required length is cut, let me remind you once again about the importance of perpendicular corners and straight ends, mark everything with a square and cut carefully;
- The element is tried on at its future location, since it is wider than the groove of the box, it is necessary to cut off the excess protrusions so that they do not rest against the wall. It is important to accurately mark the cutting line;
- The protrusion is cut flush with the plane of the reverse side of the casing; the photo shows the final result of the work;
- The trim is exposed and carefully hammered into place - you can enjoy excellent result work.
Conclusion
I recommend watching the video; many points are shown clearly and explained in more detail; it also discusses the option of framing a narrow space near the box when the trim does not fit. I hope that you will understand the process, and if you still have questions, write them in the comments.
You may come face to face with a problem, the essence of which is that standard openings are only suitable for standard doors. There is also a situation when standard box does not match the walls in . You can close the gap with polyurethane foam, and then spend a long and tedious time covering the opening with plaster. But it's better to make everything much simpler. Use extensions (expanders) that increase the size of the door frame.
Extensions are panels that have a thickness from 5 to 400 mm, and you can make additional extensions large sizes. They are vertical and horizontal. The additions will improve the appearance of the doorway, giving solidity to the entire structure, and will also greatly facilitate the repair process. They should be chosen in the same color as your door and door frame.
Installing the extensions is easy. If you have special grooves in the door frame, you can safely take an extension with a 10 mm wide strip. But in the case of grooveless doors, any additional width strips will do. The extensions are usually attached to one side of the door. Although there are situations when the box needs to be “expanded” on both sides.
Installation can be carried out before the installation of the door. To do this, just screw the extensions to the back of the door frame. And if the extensions are mounted on already installed door, you need to drill through the extension and secure the extension itself to the door frame with a self-tapping screw through the hole made. If the width of the opening does not allow this, try nailing the strip indented from the edge of the door frame. True, in this case a gap may appear. But it is not difficult to cover it with sealant.
Horizontal extensions are installed after the vertical ones, on top of them. After that, you can deal with platbands. Installing extensions is not a very difficult task, but it is painstaking. So it takes several hours to install the extensions on just one door.
If you wish, you can make the accessories yourself. Simply cut out the panels to the required size and paint them exactly to match the color of the door. If your walls are not very smooth, make an additional panel with a slight slope. Then you will visually align the walls.