A homemade electric scooter made with your own hands from an electric drill engine and a gearbox from an angle grinder: photo of the assembly, as well as a video of testing the scooter.
Electric scooters are gradually entering our daily life, on the streets you can find such devices not only for children, but also for adults. And some owners of these devices go to work without traffic jams, because the power reserve is such vehicle enough for 15 - 20 km and no need to fill it with gasoline.
Industrial versions of scooter devices that are on sale are not cheap, but for our folk craftsmen, building an electric scooter from scrap materials is not a problem, and in this article we will look at such a homemade product.
- An ordinary scooter made in China.
- Electric drill powered by 12V battery.
- The axle and gearbox are from a grinder.
- Overrunning Bendix clutch from a car starter.
- Roller wheel bearings – 3 pcs.
- Lithium polymer battery - 12V and 2.2 A.
- Wires.
- Aluminum corners.
- Bolts, nuts, rivets.
An overrunning clutch is needed here so that when the engine is turned off, the scooter wheel does not stop or brake, but continues to rotate.
Pay attention! Bendix can be left-handed or right-handed, it must be selected depending on the direction of rotation.
I connected the axle from the grinder to the wheel of the scooter, for this I welded the wheel bearing to the axle, and also welded the bearing itself inside so that it would not rotate. The wheel is tightly fixed to the axle so that torque is transmitted to the wheel.
The wheel axle is mounted on two bearings secured with aluminum corners on the scooter frame.
Now you need to connect the engine gearbox axis to the bendix.
I drilled a 3.3 mm hole in the axis of the engine gearbox (perpendicular to the axis) and hammered a piece of drill into it.
In the Bendix itself, I made a longitudinal cut so that the axle with a piece of drill would fit in, it turned out something like a cardan joint.
A lithium-polymer battery was mounted on the frame.
On the steering wheel I installed a speed control button from an electric drill, the regulator is connected simply, two wires go to the electric motor and two more to the battery itself.
There is quite a presence on the Internet now. But their cost is often not affordable for everyone. As is known, the most cheap way to receive something is to create it with my own hands, using only raw materials, improvised tools and used parts of other devices.
Here's a small one step by step instructions about how to assemble your own electric scooter with your own hands with minimal investment.
The scooter is designed for a maximum speed of about 30 km per hour, will have about 3 horsepower and can travel about 18-20 km on a single charge.
Step 1: Parts and Tools
Below is basic set the most important components (parts) used and necessary tools. As much as possible, stock up on used parts from various electrical appliances, which often gather dust in your attic or garage.
How to make a good one, and what you need for this:
Details:
Tools:
Step 2: Selecting a scooter base
The manufacture of a new homemade electric scooter must begin with the base - the frame of a former regular scooter. The base from any classic Razor scooter will do, especially the front and rear wheel suspension, which uses springs and shock absorbers rather than rubber, but has a more elegant feel. Converting a regular scooter into an electric scooter is the easiest way, but there will be a problem with space for hanging equipment.
It is unlikely that you will be able to use old wheels. As a rule, they are always worn out, and the bearings are loose or broken. So you will have to buy new base wheels (preferably with replacement tires). When selecting a frame and wheels, keep in mind that the future structure should rise 10-15 cm from the surface of the ground with the wheels mounted.
Step 3: Rear Suspension
To accommodate good wheels, you will need to build a completely new aluminum rear suspension. A few cheap mountain bike shock absorbers with a spring force of approximately 250-300 kg/cm will come in handy here. Similar details in large quantities They are sold in specialized markets/shops, and there are also many of them on online auctions. The shock absorber mounts are made from 1/4″, two 2″ and 1″ U-channel aluminum.
Step 4: Fork
Like the rear suspension, the fork and front suspension will also receive significant upgrades due to the new wheels. Here you can also use springs and shock absorbers from a mountain bike fork to create a new pair of shock absorbers with a pivot at each end.
This design is much simpler and more reliable than a telescopic fork. With this design, the front wheel can be easily centered in front of the steering column axis. It is very important to install the wheel slightly forward - this will significantly increase the steering characteristics. Don't be afraid to raise the front of the scooter a couple more inches if necessary.
Step 5: Wheels
To secure the wheels to the rest of the scooter, you need to make your own axles from 1/2" threaded rods (studs) and matching nuts. The inner diameter of the wheel bearings will fit 5/8″, so to get a 1/2″ axle that will fit snugly in the bearings you will need appropriate shims. Manufacturers of electric scooters make their parts unique and unsuitable for other models. Therefore, you will have quite a large choice of wheels.
The nuts are screwed together until their flanges are pressed against outside wheel bearings. To secure the spacers in place, a second nut is additionally screwed on. Four more nuts are used to secure each wheel to the frame.
Step 6: Gearbox
Since the CIM motors we plan to use are relatively high speed, low torque motors, a gearbox is needed to reduce the output speed of the motors to an acceptable level. A homemade electric scooter, made with your own hands, will not be able to work without a gearbox: this is not toy car, here you need to ensure a smooth start.
In principle, any two-speed gearbox will do. Again, we select used ones for the lowest price. We cut out the gearboxes to eliminate as much wasted space as possible and remove the housing completely to create a 3-motor transmission with a single output shaft.
We install the gearbox on the scooter using the original bolt holes built into the gearbox and some aluminum angle pieces bolted to the scooter frame. Finally, 21 sprockets are attached to the output shaft for a #35 chain.
Step 7: Chain Tensioner
Most the hard part The future electric scooter in terms of installation and subsequent adjustment is the chain tensioner. Due to its location, when the scooter's suspension is compressed, the effective length of the chain between the sprocket on the gearbox and the sprocket on the rear wheel increases. It must maintain (compensate for) additional chain tension. In addition to the chain tensioner, the scooter also needed an idler sprocket.
When driving along uneven surface, jumping or minor body impacts, the chain may fly off the rear sprocket. To prevent this from happening, you will have to machine a special limiter. You won’t be able to build an electric scooter with your own hands using a regular screwdriver: the torque is too small.
Step 8: Brake
Motors and drive chains are great, but being able to stop your scooter in time is even more important. Since disc brake rotors are simply large spinning metal discs attached to a wheel, you can simply use the wheel's drive sprocket as a disc brake.
It will be necessary to build a caliper to grip the sprocket from an aluminum block. To do this we use an aluminum U-channel, two brake pads, springs and several bolts. You can use absolutely any pads - this is a racing car.
We attach the right brake pad to a rod that passes through the caliper, springs and aluminum suspension frame. As the spring expands in the middle, the brake is inactive and, if necessary, the brake cable pulls the two halves of the caliper towards each other so that they both move towards the sprocket and compress it on both sides, providing braking.
Step 9: Steering Wheel
For greater and more confident control, we will need a wider steering wheel, because our wheels will be quite wide. Almost any handlebar from both the Soviet model and modern mountain bikes will easily fit.
We fix it on the steering column, having previously adjusted the clamp with an aluminum bracket with bolt tightening. If the steering wheel is quite thick, then you can easily place a throttle and a hall sensor in it.
Step 10: Frame (base)
How to make an electric scooter from an ordinary scooter? The original frame from a standard Riser scooter will be quite small. It can be used as the main platform for attaching an additional surface made of lightweight materials. This will provide more space for hanging components such as batteries. The new surface can be made of carbon fiber or high-strength plastic - this will significantly increase its wear resistance. We screw the new base on top of the old one using countersunk stainless steel screws.
Step 11: Mounting and Connecting Electronics
We install the electric motor controller on the front side of the gearbox as close to the aluminum frame corner as possible to leave as much space as possible for the batteries. Main switch We bolt the power supply directly to the scooter's deck, while the fuse holder and fuse itself are bolted to the bottom of the frame (you can use an aluminum angle or channel). It is better to use a 200A fuse as this is the peak current of the motor.
All electrical connections must be connected using durable, conductive connectors. DIY electric scooter diagrams and connection drawings can be easily found on the Internet for various types of engines, gearboxes and batteries of any power.
Step 12: Battery
To minimize the weight of the entire structure and energy reserves the best option will use 5 Ah lithium polymer batteries (eg LiPo from HobbyKing).
With this volume, 8 batteries will be enough; we take one more as a spare. Large batches often contain defective elements. Of course, they can be replaced later in the store with a new battery, but it is better to immediately take them with a reserve. As a result, we will get a battery with characteristics of approximately 60V and approximately 600W of output power.
Step 13: Battery Holder
A DIY electric scooter build is not complete without a battery attached to it. In this case, it is necessary to consider the possibility of quickly replacing power supplies. To install the batteries on the scooter frame, we build a small aluminum or plastic box.
It is better, of course, to use polycarbonate and cover it with carbon fiber for greater strength. The box must be fixed with bolts with a countersunk head so that when moving its head does not cling to the legs and does not protrude on the surface of the frame.
Step 14: Final Assembly Stage
The final stage will be assembling and soldering the entire structure together. To do this, we use a screwdriver with bits, open-end wrenches and a screwdriver. Tighten all bolted connections tightly and double check them.
That's about it - assembling the electric scooter with your own hands is complete, you can go for the first field tests, after which you can modify or improve the resulting model.
Video
Having changed the car to homemade scooter With an electric motor for trips to the store, I not only save money, but also get great pleasure from such “travels.”
Correct size
I planned to assemble the scooter small so that it would be allowed on both the subway and the train: the frame was made in the form of an arc, as close as possible to the front wheel and going around it. The foot support was placed on the rear wheel axle, which further reduced the dimensions of the structure. The front wheel was chosen to be larger in diameter - for driving over bumps and holes, and the smaller rear wheel was brought as close as possible to the front so that the scooter took up little space in public transport.Convenient frame
I used a fragment of the rim as a frame metal barrel for 200 l. (see photo, item 1). Using electric welding, I secured it at one end to the hub of the bicycle frame into which the fork fits, and to the bottom of the rim I attached the footplate (2) and brackets for mounting the rear wheel (3). I connected the part of the frame with the front hub and horizontal pipe to the rim by welding strengthening the structure (4)
Electric motor
I purchased a wheel motor (5) with a power of 350 W and a voltage of 36 V suitable size. I installed it on the fork at the mounting location using locking washers (6). I welded a platform (7) to the fork, on which I installed a box (8) for batteries and a wheel control unit. To propel the scooter, three 12 V and 7 A batteries were needed, connected in series. The charge of such batteries lasts for 15 km. on rough terrain, and on a flat road - a little more.I charge the batteries with a car charger. The power switch is located on the steering wheel.
Important!
When installing the motor-wheel in the place where it is attached to the fork, you should drill additional holes for the retaining washers. This will protect the wheel from turning.
Every boy's dream is to ride a scooter. However, modern girls are not averse to taking a ride either. But now a more desirable replacement has appeared for the regular scooter - a scooter with a motor. And not only a child, but also an adult can ride it like a breeze.
For the youngest children (4-7 years old) you can purchase inexpensive scooter "Hummingbird", which comes in blue and red colors.
His maximum speed small – 10 km/h, but for a child riding such a scooter is a real rally. You can drive on one charge 4 km. The foldable design will withstand a child weighing up to 40 kg. The scooter itself weighs only 8.2 kg, i.e. The child can easily lift it up to the floor on his own. Wide footrest - 580x130 mm, wheel size with tires in diameter - 137 mm, which indicates the reliability and safety of the vehicle. Wheels on bearings and they are made of durable plastic. Throttle stick for speed control, solid tires, rear drum brake, lead-acid maintenance-free battery that requires up to 8 hours to fully charge, motor 120 W– these are the main characteristics of the model. A dream, not a scooter!
Where to buy a Kolibri scooter and its cost?
The cost of this miracle toy and at the same time a personal vehicle only 69 dollars . You can buy a scooter at e-bike.com.ua .
A little expense and imagination will help you make a scooter from a regular cordless drill.
In the retail chain today there is a huge selection of electric scooters, but you can easily make an electric scooter from a battery drill, and you’ll also have to disassemble the grinder. Craftsmen who already ride scooters with a motor, who made them with their own hands, say that a motor that develops up to 550 rpm, quite enough for driving on city streets.
The battery is also suitable for a drill - 14.4 V
The frame can be made from ordinary profile steel pipe (wall thickness 2.5mm) - it will withstand weight 100 kg. Or use a frame from a regular scooter. At a bicycle store you need to purchase rubber grips, a handlebar mount, and a thrust bearing designed for a load of 300 kg. There are several options for transmitting rotation to the wheel: using a chain, two gears, a friction attachment, using a rigid transmission and a motor - wheels. But, last option It is practically impossible to implement, because this important part must be ordered in China.
You immediately need to decide which wheel will rotate? You will also need to connect the generator overrunning clutch(it’s also easy to buy), bearings, wheels. The battery will fit lithium polymer(11.1V 2.2Ah). With a little magic on all this, you can get a good means of transportation.
How much does it cost to make an electric scooter from a drill?
The cost of making an electric scooter with your own hands is approximately five thousand rubles, against the cost of the structure in the retail chain costing 14-140 thousand rubles.
Useful link, do-it-yourself electric scooter: http://www.samartsev.ru/nikboris/gallery/2011/samokat/samokat.htm
Photo of a DIY electric scooter from a ready-made kit
Electric scooter– a toy that is interesting not only for children, but also for adults. It gives freedom of movement on roads with any surface, delivering a lot of driving pleasure. Of course, you shouldn’t consider this device as your main means of transportation, but hardly anyone would refuse to take a ride on it and get a lot of pleasure. There are enough models of electric scooters for children and adults in the retail chain, so everyone can choose one according to their preference. If you “have your hands in the place,” you might want to make your own electric scooter. This is quite a feasible job, the result of which will give you twice as much pleasure as buying a finished vehicle.
It’s unlikely that you’ll want to make an electric scooter for an adult. But for a child such a toy will be the height of dreams.
Today it is not a problem to purchase a motor for a scooter, but if you have a screwdriver, then a motor will be enough. Then you need to decide on the preferred torque option: using two gears, a chain or a special attachment (friction transmission). The option of direct rotation is also suitable, i.e. using a flexible cable from a car’s speedometer, for example. The expensive motor-wheel option often disappears immediately.
At the same time, you need to solve the question of which wheel needs to be rotated? For a scooter, it is not so critical which wheel, the front or rear, will rotate, but the second option seems more correct, since a brake can be installed on the rear wheel.
For the design, 14V is quite enough, which means you can choose the 4S1P configuration: by disassembling the angle grinder and the cordless drill. By removing everything from the drill, you will get a motor with a gearbox, and by removing the body from the grinder, you will have an axis with a rotor and a gearbox with bevel gears. The axis of the scooter wheel will be the rotor axis, and the part where the disk is mounted will be connected to the motor. Having completed these manipulations, we can assume that the floor of the scooter is ready. The serious problem is the battery. It is unlikely that heavy lead will be suitable here, so you need to go to a radio parts store for lithium battery (The battery from an electric LiPoly helicopter is perfect). You can attach it to the steering wheel, where baskets for small things are often installed. There is no need to invent a speed controller, since the standard speed controller button becomes it.
With a little more magic, you can get what most of the tools in the house were dismantled for.
Review
Having a technical education, I took the risk of “creating” an electric scooter for my son. I won’t say that everything went “like clockwork” for me, because I had to tinker. But, in the end, the toy is ready and has already been tested in action, which gives me a well-deserved sense of pride.
Nikolay Cherednichenko, resident of Ivanovo