Growing pumpkin seedlings in Siberia. Growing pumpkins in Siberia - planting, care, harvesting. In the Moscow region and Leningrad region

A piece of ripe pumpkin is a wonderful treat for children. It is believed that pumpkin grows only in the southern regions. This is actually not true. In the short Siberian summer, you can grow quite large and juicy pumpkins. The main thing is to choose a suitable variety, plant it and care for it according to all the rules. So.

Pumpkin varieties for Siberia

If you plant the wrong pumpkin variety on your plot, you will never get ripe fruits. Varieties adapted to the Siberian climate are planted. Let's look at the most popular options.

Freckle- one of the early varieties of bush pumpkin. It takes 3 months from germination to harvesting ripe fruits. Ripe fruits are greenish in color with light yellow splashes. When cut, the flesh is juicy, tender, moderately sweet. To taste, the pulp resembles a pear. Fruit weight up to 3 kilograms.

Russian- an early variety of pumpkin. Scourges of medium length. The fruits ripen in 3-3.5 months. The average weight is from 1.8 to 3.6 kilograms. The skin of the fruit is bright orange. The pulp of a ripe pumpkin is tender, sweet and has a wonderful taste. There are practically no seeds. Pumpkin is consumed fresh and used to make jam or pies. The variety is adapted to unfavorable weather conditions.

Russian pumpkin seeds. Photo

Pearl- the variety is popular among Siberian gardeners. Medium ripening variety. On each bush, long lashes grow. Therefore, you need to plant pumpkins at a great distance from each other. “Pearl” develops remarkably well in harsh climates. On each bush, more than one pumpkin ripens, weighing up to 6.6 kilograms. The skin of the pumpkin is orange. The fruits are cylindrical in shape. When cut, the flesh is tender and sweet.

When to plant pumpkins in open ground in Siberia

Pumpkin is grown in two ways: without seedlings and through seedlings. Sow the seeds in the garden bed no earlier than the end of May, when at a depth of 10 cm, the soil warms up to a temperature of +12 degrees Celsius. When sowing in cold soil, seed germination is significantly reduced.

The most popular planting method in Siberia is through seedlings. Sow the seeds in cups with soil 25 days before the expected date of planting the seedlings in the ground. Since seedlings die at temperatures below 0 degrees, there is no need to rush into planting. Plants are planted in the ground when stable above-zero temperatures are established day and night (in early June). This means they sow seedlings no earlier than May 5th.

Seed preparation

  1. Check the expiration date of the seeds. The necessary information is indicated on the packaging. If they are only 1 year out of date, you can try planting them. Even old seeds often germinate faster than fresh ones;
  2. Sort out the seeds. Specimens with black dots, with breaks, and also too small are rejected. They leave the largest and most even seeds;
  3. Sprout pumpkin seeds in a damp cloth or gauze. The seeds are wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in a container with a lid. Leave for 2-3 days. The recommended room temperature is not lower than 20 degrees Celsius.

Sprouted seeds are used for planting seedlings. Instances that have not sprouted after 3 days are discarded. Quite rarely, but sometimes, pumpkin seeds germinate within a week. If you wish, you can keep the seeds in a damp cloth longer.

Growing pumpkin seedlings

Mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties of pumpkin are necessarily planted in Siberia through seedlings. It is not possible to get a harvest by sowing seeds in open ground. The fruits will not have time to ripen, even in the hot but short Siberian summer. Let us remind you once again that seeds are sown for seedlings 25 days before planting in the ground.

Where to grow pumpkin seedlings? Plants are capricious. With a lack of sunlight, the seedlings become stretched and may even die. Grow at home in a window only when there is enough sunlight to illuminate the plants. If it is impossible to create conditions for the growth of seedlings at home, then it is recommended to grow them in a greenhouse or heated greenhouse. In greenhouse conditions, pumpkin seedlings grow short, healthy and quite strong.

What soil should I use? Any peat-based nutrient soil will do. You can purchase land at any gardening store. Prepare the soil yourself from a mixture of peat, compost, turf soil and rotted manure (5:3:1:1). For pumpkin, use disposable cups with a volume of at least 0.5 liters. A prerequisite is drainage holes in the cups so that during watering, excess moisture comes out onto the tray.

Strong pumpkin seedlings

Stages of growing pumpkin seedlings:

  • Place drainage material (moss or sand) at the bottom of the cup. Fill with nutritious soil;
  • Make a hole in the cups, no more than 3 cm deep. Fill the hole with water and carefully plant the sprouted pumpkin seeds. Sprinkle with soil;
  • The cups are covered with glass or film on top. Transfer to a room where the temperature is maintained at no lower than 25 degrees during the day, and about +18 at night;
  • In a maximum of 5-6 days, pumpkin shoots will appear. To prevent the plants from stretching out, it is recommended to move the cups with seedlings in a room with a daytime temperature of up to +18, and a night temperature of +13. As it grows, the temperature can be increased slightly;
  • In planting containers, drying out of the soil is unacceptable. To maintain the required soil moisture, carry out regular but moderate watering. Use clean water at room temperature;
  • The seedlings are fed 7 days after germination. A solution of nitrophoska, which is prepared at the rate of 15 grams per 10 liters of water, is suitable for this purpose;
  • When growing seedlings at home, you need to monitor the lighting. If the plant begins to stretch, then you should move it closer to the glass, where there is enough sunlight;
  • About a week before planting in the ground, the plants are hardened off. In the daytime, take the seedlings outside. The day before transplanting, leave the plants in cups overnight. To protect from the cold, cover with non-woven covering material.

What healthy and strong seedlings look like. Correct plants have a strong and short stem, and a maximum of three leaves of a dark green color. The internode distance should be small.

Pumpkin growing area

When choosing a place to plant plants, pay attention to the following factors:

  • The site should have fertile, medium loamy soil with a low acidity level. Heavy, too wet and acidic soils are not suitable;
  • The place should be protected from cold winds by large trees, bushes or buildings. More than half of the daylight hours, the area should be illuminated by the sun. Therefore, pumpkins are often planted on the south side of buildings;
  • Pumpkin does not like stagnant water or drought. You can't plant in lowlands, but in highlands. The best option is a small hill or flat area;
  • It is recommended to observe crop rotation. The best predecessors for pumpkin are white cabbage, onions, potatoes, legumes, root vegetables and perennial herbs, as well as green manure.

How to prepare a pumpkin patch? In the fall, add 1 bucket of humus or compost per 1 square meter for digging. If the soil is acidic, add a little lime. Heavy, clayey soils are loosened by adding rotted sawdust or adding a little coarse sand. In any type of soil, it is recommended to add ash during digging, at the rate of 1 cup per square meter. meter of plot. In spring, the soil is slightly loosened.

Sowing pumpkins in open ground

Gardeners grow early-ripening pumpkin varieties by sowing seeds in open ground. It is recommended to germinate the seeds in a damp cloth in advance. Then, in the prepared area, make holes at a distance of 1.3 meters for climbing pumpkins and 1 meter for bush pumpkins.

The depth of seed placement on light soil is 6 cm, on medium loamy soil up to 4 cm. Moderately moisten the soil with water and cover with agrofibre. A layer of material will protect the soil from drying out. After germination, the material is removed.

To guarantee seedlings, experienced gardeners recommend planting 2-3 plants in each hole. After germination, weak plants are removed and healthy ones are left.

Transplanting seedlings into open ground

Planting pumpkin seedlings begins when stable above-zero temperatures are established during the day and night. A short-term drop to 0 degrees and below is detrimental to young plants. Usually, it becomes warm at the end of May or at the beginning of June.

The main stages of transplanting seedlings:

  1. The soil is moistened in cups so that the plants can be easily removed along with the lump of earth. But remember, waterlogging can disturb the earthen ball and the roots will be exposed during transplantation. Therefore, water moderately;
  2. In the garden bed, dig holes as deep as an earthen ball of plants. Maintain an interval between holes of about 1 meter. For long-climbing varieties, the distance is increased to 1.2 m;
  3. Pour a nutrient mixture prepared from compost or humus into the hole with the addition of a small amount of wood ash. If desired, you can add a little mineral fertilizer after mixing it with the soil;
  4. Take the seedlings out of the glass. Place it in the hole, deepening it to a maximum of 1 cm. Do not sprinkle the stem too much with soil. The exception is planting overgrown seedlings, when deepening is a necessity;
  5. Water with plenty of warm water and shade with agrofibre. Leave the seedlings under cover for several days until they have completely taken root in the new location. Conduct daily, moderate watering.

The best time of day to transplant seedlings is the second half of the day, after 18:00. The scorching sun at noon can destroy the planted plants. Slight coolness has a beneficial effect on plant survival.

Feeding and watering

Pumpkins need plenty of watering, especially during the hot, dry season. The first time, water the pumpkin abundantly 10 days after planting the seedlings. And then, after two weeks, watering is repeated. The volume of water for watering one plant is 15 liters. The frequency of watering is increased during the period of intensive fruit growth, and at the time of ripening, on the contrary, it is reduced.

It is important to monitor the weather. In cloudy and cool summers, the pumpkin is watered quite rarely, and during the dry season, I increase the frequency and intensity of watering. It is advisable to use water with a temperature of at least 20 degrees.

Fertilizing affects the development of plants and the growth of tasty fruits. Feed for the first time with mullein solution (1 liter of mullein per 10 liters of water), at the rate of 2 liters per plant. This type of feeding is applied in the phase of 3-5 true leaves. Nitrogen accelerates the growth of green mass.

During the period of lash formation, fertilize with mullein infusion, which is prepared according to the same scheme (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of mullein). Add 1 tbsp to a bucket of infusion. a spoonful of nitrophoska. The volume of fertilizer per plant is 2 liters.

The third time the pumpkin is fertilized during the period of fruit formation. During this period, plants need a lot of nutrients. You can provide everything you need with a solution of mullein and wood ash. It is prepared like this: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 glass of wood ash and 1 liter of mullein. Water at the rate of 1 bucket per 5 plants.

Important. Feed the plants at the root, only after abundant watering. Do not apply fertilizers to dry soil.

Mulching and loosening

A crust on the surface of the soil that forms after heavy rains or watering. Through the hard layer, oxygen does not reach the roots well. Ensure the supply of air by loosening the top layer to a depth of no more than 1-2 cm. During loosening, be sure to remove weeds along with the roots.

To keep the top layer of soil moist, it is recommended to place mulch around the plants. Large sawdust or straw is used as mulching material. Mulch retains moisture and prevents weed growth.

Forming a pumpkin in open ground

Only properly formed plant bushes produce a rich harvest in Siberian conditions. It is recommended to form bushes into one or two shoots. Let's consider each of the methods.

In one shoot, form a pumpkin according to the following scheme: during the growth process, unnecessary ovaries and lateral processes are removed. On the main stem, only three ovaries are left, well, a maximum of 4 pieces. When the last ovary is formed, you need to leave 3 leaves after it and pinch the main shoot.

Pumpkin ovaries

How to form a pumpkin into two shoots? This is done simply. Most of the shoots are cut off, leaving only one side and main stem. On the side shoot, the ovaries are cut off, leaving only one fruit. On the main stem, only two pumpkins will grow. Be sure to leave 3-4 leaves after the last ovary.

When to pick pumpkin in Siberia

Pumpkins are harvested from the garden in the fall, early September, or even October, if weather conditions permit. The ripeness of fruits is determined by the following characteristics:

  • The required number of days have passed from germination to harvest. Information about when the pumpkin ripens is indicated on the packaging. Mid-season varieties, ripen in 3.5 months;
  • Ripeness is determined by the pattern on the rind (it must correspond to the given variety), as well as by the appearance of the stalk. In ripe fruits, the stalk is hard and dry to the touch.

If there is a threat of night frosts, you should not wait for the pumpkin to ripen. The fruits are cut slightly unripe. They ripen during storage at room temperature.

How to pick a pumpkin? Using a knife, carefully cut off the fruits along with the stalk. The pumpkin is dried in the sun for 10 days to strengthen the outer layer and remove excess moisture. Then store in a cool, dark place. Optimal storage conditions: air humidity level is 75%, and the temperature is not higher than +8 degrees. In such conditions, mid-late ripening pumpkins are stored for up to a year. At room temperature, the fruits can be stored for up to six months.

Video:

In central Russia and in other territories with a similar climate, varieties of pumpkin grow: large-fruited and hard-barked. Butternut squash grows in the southern regions. Sometimes there is a gourd pumpkin. Growing pumpkins in open ground is not as difficult a process as inexperienced gardeners imagine it to be.

Pumpkin is a well-known annual plant with a powerful root system, wide leaves, and long strong stems. The taproot can penetrate three meters into the soil, and the lateral roots spread over an area of ​​up to four meters, in search of moisture and nutrition.

The stem of the plant “creeps” from the base by more than seven meters. Pumpkin has large yellow or yellow-orange flowers, which are arranged singly (the plant is dioecious). On the main stem, starting from the tenth leaf onwards, fruits are formed.

Pumpkin varieties and their characteristics

VarietyPeculiarities

This pumpkin is fast-growing and has a high yield. It has coarser fibers than the pulp of the large-fruited variety, and it does not store very long (up to four months) without changing its taste and nutritional characteristics.

This pumpkin is a real giantess; record-breaking fruits reach 60 kg. Productivity is also high. And the shelf life of the fruit is up to nine months.

This pumpkin can lie absolutely unchanged in a cellar or other cool and dry room for up to two years. Late ripening variety.

What does pumpkin like?

Pumpkin loves warmth and does not tolerate cold combined with dampness.

Important! The temperature that pumpkin seeds need to germinate is up to +30° C. At lower temperatures they will germinate for a very long time and slowly. And at less than +10° C they will not sprout at all.

The entire growing season for pumpkin passes at an optimal temperature of +25° C. In this case, it grows rich orange flesh, aromatic, dense but juicy, and a wide leaf apparatus (up to 40 m² per plant).

Pumpkin loves moisture, without a sufficient amount of which the largest fruits cannot be formed. If the pumpkin is struck by drought at the beginning of flowering, the flowers may fall off and the ovary will not form.

Pumpkin is a light-loving crop. It must be grown in sunny and windless areas (ideally melon).

How to grow pumpkin from seeds

The easiest way to grow pumpkin is to use the traditional seed sowing method. Only the seeds must be prepared for sowing.

It all starts with the choice of seed raw materials. You need to take only the largest seeds of selected quality for sowing. Thin, puny, dry, or incomplete ones should be discarded. Calibrated seeds begin to be prepared for sowing.

Seed preparation

The best way to prepare for sowing pumpkin seeds is to germinate them. This process is continued until the seeds hatch. To germinate, pumpkin seeds are immersed in water with a stable temperature of +40° C (up to +50° C is permissible, below forty is not allowed). The seeds should remain in this state for at least three hours.

Advice! How to achieve this temperature? place the bowl with the germinated seeds on a radiator or other heating device, place it in a yogurt maker or multicooker in the “Yogurt” mode.

Then the swollen seeds are wrapped in a well-moistened cotton cloth and left at the temperature of the living room until they peck. The fabric must be checked and moistened again all the time so that the seeds do not dry out.

Since pumpkin is a heat-loving plant, it is recommended, especially in the middle climate zone, to increase the cold resistance of the seeds before sowing. To do this, after pecking, they must continue to be kept in a damp cloth, but in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator, for three to five days.

Due to the heat-loving nature, you should not sow seeds in open ground; it is better to grow pumpkin seedlings first.

Growing pumpkin seedlings

Seedlings are needed in order to obtain a plentiful and early harvest. And also so that the hatched seeds do not die from the cold if sowing is carried out at a time when cold snaps are still possible. It is not necessary to grow seedlings at home - you can do this in a special nursery or mini-greenhouse. But it is best, “under supervision,” to grow pumpkin seedlings on the southern windowsill of the apartment. At room temperature, which is still closer to the +30° C expected by the pumpkin than the temperature in the spring greenhouse, the process will go faster and better.

Important! Despite their powerful and robust appearance, pumpkin seedlings do not tolerate transplantation well. Therefore, it is better to grow seedlings in peat pots.

To grow seedlings, you will need peat humus or ordinary pots measuring at least 10x10 cm in quantities half as large as the number of seeds. There is no need to try to grow a “pumpkin forest”, remember the 40 m² feeding area that a pumpkin can cover. Two plants, with a sufficiently spacious placement, a large amount of heat, light and moisture, with regular fertilizing, will produce a larger harvest of fruits in quantity and size than ten located in the same space.

Important! Pumpkin seedlings should spend at least three weeks at home or in a greenhouse before planting in the ground. Therefore, seeds are sown based on this calendar indicator.

Soil for seedlings

Pumpkin seeds are sown in ordinary fertile seedling soil consisting of peat and sand. No special additives are required. There is also no need to add fertilizers to the soil. If you are growing seeds in peat pots, simply fill them with soil. When growing in a plastic container, add 3 cm of sawdust to the bottom.

Sowing seeds

The seeds, germinated in the manner described above and hardened, are sown in pots in pairs. Later, the weak seedling can be removed by simply pinching off the stem. Sowing depth is 2 cm. The seeds are covered with peat. Watering is carried out before and after sowing.

During the first three days after sowing, the temperature should be +25° C...+30° C.

Seedling care

Shoots should appear on the fourth day. After this, the temperature must be reduced and maintained within +18° C...+25° C for a week, then reduced again to +15° C...+18° C. This is necessary so that the pumpkin seedlings do not stretch out and grow strong and squat .

Watering the seedlings is carried out regularly, but it should not be excessive. Stagnation of water is prohibited. Ideal soil moisture and air humidity will contribute to the formation of hardy and abundantly fruiting pumpkin plants in the future.

Two weeks after germination, fertilizing is carried out. To do this, mullein must be diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with water and poured into each pot, or under each plant in the greenhouse, 100 ml of nutrient solution after watering. If there is no mullein, fertilizing is carried out with nitrophoska according to the instructions.

Video - Growing pumpkin seedlings

Readiness and disembarkation

Properly grown seedlings look like this:

  • low stem, thick and strong;
  • short internodes;
  • three well-developed true leaves with a rich green color.

In this state, pumpkin seedlings can be planted in open ground under temporary film cover on the 22nd day after sowing germinated seeds in pots.

Before planting, the holes are watered with hot water. If the seedlings are in a peat humus container, they do not need to be removed, just slightly destroy the walls and bottom of the pot.

After planting, the plants are watered with warm water and protected with a film cover until the onset of consistently warm weather.

Soils suitable for growing pumpkins

This plant is most suitable for fertile soil, which has a fairly loose structure and is well heated. It is on such land that pumpkin fruits will reach record sizes.

Important! Pumpkin will grow worst on damp and clay soil. Acidic soils are absolutely not suitable for the plant - they must be treated with lime (liming for the predecessor) or wood ash must be added.

When growing pumpkins in your summer cottage, try to comply with the following requirements.

  1. Planting on the south side of the house along a wall or fence. The building and fence will protect from the wind during the day and release the heat accumulated during the day to the plants at night.
  2. Pumpkin lashes may well be directed at the wall of a house, a fence, or the roof of a barn. Closer to the sun the fruits will ripen better.
  3. If there is a compost heap on the site on the south side, it is ideal to plant the pumpkin near it, with the vines directed there.

Soil preparation

To successfully grow a pumpkin, in the fall, after removing the predecessors, you need to start preparing the soil.

  1. Apply organic matter and mineral fertilizer (5 kg of humus, 15 g of potassium chloride and twice as much superphosphate per m²) to a clean area freed from plants and weeds. If there is no humus, you can add manure in the fall - 7 kg per m².
  2. Dig the area 20 cm deep.
  3. To lighten the soil structure, if necessary, add river sand (coarse grain) and peat.
  4. Deoxidize the soil with wood ash.
  5. Loosen, mix if possible, pour hot water over it.

In the spring, there is no need to dig up the top soil layer; it is enough to remove the emerging weeds and level the area with a rake. The soil should be in this condition from March to May - the time of planting pumpkin seedlings.

Two days before planting the grown seedlings, the soil in the garden bed must be dug up to 12 cm (half a shovel length), ammonium nitrate added - 20 g per m² and holes made.

On light-textured soil, the holes can be shallow - up to 25 cm. If the soil is heavy, the depth of the hole should reach 40 cm. A little compost and a layer of dry leaves are placed at the bottom.

The distance between plants in a regular garden is about a meter. If possible, it can be doubled.

Predecessors of pumpkin

This question is relevant because culture is demanding of its predecessors.

Pumpkin care

Pumpkin does not need careful and specialized care, but there are some measures that should not be neglected if you want to get a large harvest of large fruits.

Watering

The main maintenance measure is adjusting watering. The pumpkin, like a pump, pumps out all the moisture from the ground and then evaporates it through the leaves. Thus, little gets to the roots and stems. Therefore, the moisture level in the soil must constantly be replenished.

Advice! The pumpkin needs to be watered especially generously when it starts flowering and fruiting on a large scale. The water temperature should not be lower than +20°C (warmed up in the sun). Under no circumstances should you water the pumpkin with cold water in the heat - the plants may die.

After watering, every other time you need to loosen the soil near the base of the stem. Weed out weeds as they grow.

Top dressing

You need to feed the pumpkin often, otherwise you won’t be able to get large fruits. The first fertilizing in open ground is after the formation of the fifth leaf. The second is when lashes begin to form. Then every two weeks.

You can feed with nitrophoska, starting with 10 g per plant and increasing the dose by 5 g with each feeding. You can add dry granules or prepare a solution.

During the fruiting period, a glass of ash is added to each feeding.

You can feed the pumpkin throughout the growing season with mullein solution.

The plant is formed into one stem, or at least two - this promotes high yield. To do this, after excess shoots appear on the sides, they are all removed, and excess ovaries are also plucked out, leaving no more than three on each lash.

By the way! On second-order shoots, a pumpkin can produce fruits after the second leaf, but they will grow small and tasteless, so it’s worth pinching the plant’s shoots.

Video - Pumpkin: growing and pinching

Powder

Another agrotechnical technique that promotes yield is sprinkling with vines. Once the lashes have reached a meter in length, they must be carefully untangled, laid in a given direction and sprinkled with earth in two or three places. This is done so that the wind does not break the vines and leaves, tearing off the ovary. But the main thing is that in the internodes pressed to the ground, additional roots are formed that will nourish the plants and contribute to the increase in fruits.

A few more tricks

  1. Whips that have climbed onto a fence or roof must be controlled. When the pumpkins begin to ripen, secure them by placing them in regular string bag nets and securing them with additional fasteners. Otherwise, heavy fruits will roll down, breaking off the stems.
  2. It is undesirable, especially in wet weather, for the fruits to lie on bare ground. When they reach medium size, place planks or other “breathable” material under them.

Video - How to properly grow and care for pumpkins

There's no denying that pumpkin is a healthy vegetable. Only here in Siberia it does not have time to grow and ripen. Somehow, quite by accident, I managed to get a good harvest. Later I improved my method.

There was some last year's manure left on the site, I raked it into a small mound, made depressions, put half a bucket of fertile soil in them and watered them. The layer of manure on the mound was 20 centimeters, followed by ordinary garden soil. In June, I planted pumpkin seedlings in the holes (I don’t know the variety, it was given by a friend), without covering them with anything. Only at first it was shaded from the sun.

On the same day, I planted exactly the same pumpkin seedlings in a regular garden bed. I also added half a bucket of humus to each hole. Caring for the beds was the same.

After just a couple of weeks, you could notice a difference between the plants. Those growing in the manure bed began to overtake their neighbors from the regular bed. In July, their vines were already 5-7 m long, and young shoots were actively growing in width. I laid them out in furrows, but they interfered with the plants on other ridges. Removed all fruitless and new shoots. I decided not to pinch the main stems.

Five small pumpkin ovaries appeared on each plant. The rest faded and fell away. At the end of July, I decided to remove all the tops of the lashes and the remaining extra shoots. I had to tinker with them, as the lashes became very thick.

I noticed that under each fruit a new thick white root had grown - this is how the pumpkin receives additional nutrition from the ground. It also serves as an “anchor” to prevent the wind from turning the fruit over.

On the neighboring ridge the lashes were quite modest in size. I left 1-2 fruits on each plant; the plant simply could not feed more.

All August the pumpkins sat and filled. I went and watched them grow up. September has arrived, and with it the threat of frost in our area. I waited until the last minute. One night the temperature dropped to 0°C, and the upper leaves froze. I decided not to take any more risks. I collected 10 large pumpkins from two bushes. In a regular garden plot, all the pumpkins were smaller in size.

Now I don’t complain about the pumpkin harvest. We store the fruits on the floor in our apartment. They last until the new harvest without losing their taste.

What is the care

I didn’t feed the pumpkins in the manure bed with anything - they have enough food. At first, abundant and regular watering is required.

When the plants grow, there is no need to water - the roots go to great depths, providing the plant with water. I was convinced of this in the fall when I pulled out the tops. I couldn’t cope on my own, I had to call my relatives for help.

Svetlana Shishkina,

Tobolsk, Tyumen region.

The chemical composition of pumpkin is rich in vitamins and microelements that are beneficial for the normal functioning of human organs. This explains the popularity of growing vegetables in garden beds. Culture is also popular among farmers for industrial cultivation. In this review we will talk about the features of planting pumpkin seeds and seedlings in open ground and further care.

Deadlines for planting pumpkins in Belarus, Ukraine, Leningrad region and other regions

The crop is planted after the soil has completely warmed up and the average daily temperature does not fall below +10°C. If, when sowing in spring, the temperature is below +13°C, then the germination process slows down, which threatens the seeds to rot. In the middle zone, the best time for planting seeds falls in the second ten days of May. According to folk traditions, the sowing day coincides with a church holiday - St. George's Day, but you should not rely on a significant date without taking into account weather conditions.

In the southern regions, as well as in Belarus, Ukraine, and the Donbass, where weather conditions permit, pumpkins can be planted at the end of April. According to the lunar calendar, this period coincides with the waxing moon, which is favorable for the development of top fruits.

The most popular varieties

For the Moscow region

Premiere


A cold-resistant crop with a spreading long vine and large, sweet-tasting fruits hanging when mature, up to 6 kg. The culture is unpretentious to the type of soil and its fertility.

Dacha


A culture with an early ripening period (75-85 days). The vegetable is characterized by a sweetish taste with notes of vanilla. A mature pumpkin weighs 3-4 kg. The shelf life of fruits is more than 4 months.

For the Urals

Russian


The plant is resistant to garden diseases and frost. The pulp is juicy and sugary, for which it is valued by chefs. The weight of the Russian pumpkin exceeds 2.7 kg. The ripening period of the crop is 110-130 days. The color of the ripe fruit is orange.

Nutmeg pearl


The harvest ripens in 100 days, pumpkin weight is about 5-7 kg. The taste is rich with a nutmeg note. The plant is cold-resistant, tolerates drought and heavy rainfall, and has strong immunity.

The best varieties of Siberia

Freckle


A plant with a growing season of days. The pulp is very juicy and sweet, reminiscent of melon in taste. Even after heat treatment it retains its crispy structure. The weight of the pumpkin does not exceed 3 kg.

Smile


Bush variety. The culture easily tolerates temperature changes and withstands frosts, and is resistant to humid environments. The variety has excellent taste and a long shelf life (until the next season). The duration of the growing season is 90-110 days, fetal weight – 2.1-3 kg.

Proper planting of plants in open ground

The key to productivity is proper planting, which includes preparing seeds and soil, as well as the process of placing planting material in the hole.

Seed preparation: testing for germination and germination


Seed material must first be checked for germination and sorted, leaving only healthy specimens. 3 days before the start of sowing, the grains must be germinated in damp gauze or sawdust. To speed up the germination of seeds at home, they are placed for 2 days in a solution of sodium or potassium humate. The container must be kept in a room where the temperature is 20°C all this time.

The soil

The soil must be prepared before planting. To do this, they dig it up and apply fertilizers: potassium, phosphorus, compost or manure. It is better to use complex ones; they enrich the soil with various nutrients. For example, 2 buckets of humus, ½ bucket of sawdust, 1 kg of ash, 1 glass of nitrophoska are added per 1 m2.

The depth of digging the soil should be at least 35-50 cm. To disinfect the area, it is necessary to water it with hot water.

Where to plant a pumpkin in the country? The place for planting is chosen to be sunny and well ventilated. Precursors such as potatoes, sunflowers, melons, and watermelon are not suitable. But after legumes, tomatoes and beets, the plant will feel great. The same area should not be used for planting either; the break should be 4-5 years.

Planting seeds and seedlings in the country

The distance between the holes should be at least 60 cm, because the plant’s vine is actively developing and spreading over a large space. When determining the scheme, it is better to be guided by the characteristics of the variety. More often, gardeners use this planting option:

  • embedment depth seeds - 8-10 cm (on light soils), 5-6 cm (on loams) with the sharp side down;
  • interval between holes in a row – 60-80 cm;
  • distance between rows – 1 m.

For spreading lashes, use the following scheme: 1x1.5 m. To protect the planting from spring frosts, it is recommended to cover the bed with film.

Experienced gardeners use the lunar calendar when planning planting work in their gardens. The dates indicated in it affect the speed of plant development. It is recommended to plant pumpkin on the waxing moon:

  • in March they begin to plant seeds for seedlings (18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23);
  • in April sowing is permissible in open ground (17th – 22nd, 24th – 29th);
  • in May(16th – 21st, 23rd – 28th).

In addition to 3-4 seeds, organic fertilizers are added to each hole: manure, humus or peat. To moisturize, use warm water (2 liters per hole).

In the Leningrad region, Moscow region, the Urals, and Siberia, pumpkin is grown in seedlings. The technology for planting young plants in the ground is no different from planting seeds.

What to do if the pumpkin seedlings have become very elongated? In cases of excessive seedling growth activity, when the stem becomes thin and excessively long, the first thing to do is to transplant the plants into larger pots, providing the necessary space.

Growing at home and further care

At home, pumpkins can be grown in almost any soil. The culture shows endurance to unfavorable weather conditions, even when it has begun to germinate. But these facts do not mean that the culture does not need to be looked after.

How long does it take for seeds to germinate?

The timing of seed germination depends solely on the temperature. If the night temperature does not fall below 12-14°, the seeds will begin to germinate within a week. Even if the weather is cool, after a month, 2-3 leaves are already developing on the shoot.

Pre-soaking seeds in growth stimulants will help speed up the germination process. In addition to special products, aloe juice, wood ash infusion, potato juice, and honey solution are used.

Watering rules


Pumpkin needs watering, but in moderation. Excessive moisture will cause the seedlings to stretch. It is better to water the soil after loosening and weeding. The crop tolerates drought well, but the reaction to cold water from the central pipeline can be negative. Therefore, experts recommend using settled liquid from the well.

Top dressing

The plant loves feeding. Already a week after germination of the seedlings, the first complementary foods are introduced. The plant receives ideal nutrition from mullein solution. Nitrophoska (15 grams per bucket of water) is considered no less effective. Subsequent feedings are carried out with this at intervals of 10-14 days.

Correct formation of the seedling is expressed in a low but strong stem, short internodes, and the presence of 3 leaves after a month.

Forming pumpkins


As soon as 2-3 true leaves appear on the seedlings, you need to thin out the bed. When growing a large-fruited pumpkin, only one sprout is left, while for nutmeg and hard-bark pumpkins - 2 seedlings each.

The developing lash should also be formed, and side shoots. They do this in two ways: in one stem and in two. In the first case, it is recommended to leave only 2-3 ovaries, each with 3-4 leaves. In the second method, 2 fruits are left on the main stem and one on the side shoot. Without this procedure, the fruits will be small and not very tasty.

Pests and prevention

Pumpkin is considered an unpretentious plant, however, this crop is also threatened by pests. The following can reduce yields and sometimes even destroy young shoots:

  • slugs;
  • melon aphid.

When signs of pest invasion are detected, special preparations are used (Actellik, Fufanon, Tsitkor, etc.). Products made from biological components are safer. Traditional methods are sometimes not inferior in effectiveness, among which deserve attention:

  • decoctions and infusions of chamomile;
  • infusions of potato and tomato tops;
  • decoctions of wormwood and other aromatic herbs;
  • wood ash;
  • tobacco dust;
  • slaked lime, etc.

Working solutions are used to spray plants, and powders are used for dusting. The procedures are repeated 2-3 times at intervals of 7-10 days.

For an immediate response to a pest invasion, you need to make it a rule to inspect the beds regularly once every 3 days. Then you can localize the problem and save the harvest.

Harvesting

You can determine the maturity of a pumpkin by the following signs:

  • the stalk becomes more rigid, the surface becomes corked, its woodiness occurs simultaneously with the stem supplying food;
  • the leaves on the vine dry out, change color to yellow;
  • whatever the original peel color, after ripening it reflects the texture pattern more clearly;
  • if you run your fingernail over the crust, no trace is formed;
  • when you press your fingers on the fruit, hardness is felt;
  • the ripe product is covered matte finish;
  • heard when tapped loud knock;
  • at harvest the stalk is easily removed.

To ensure a long shelf life for the crop, it is necessary to pick the fruits carefully, trying not to damage the rind. Scratches should be sealed with a bactericidal plaster to prevent germs from penetrating into the vegetable.

The fruits removed from the garden are placed in a dry room, where they ripen for about another month.

The main guarantee of a good harvest is correct choice of seeds and timely care. Self-grown pumpkin will diversify the menu for household members and enrich the body with nutrients.

Pumpkin is our second bread, along with potatoes and zucchini. In our family, this vegetable is treated with due respect, because pumpkin is an excellent source of dietary fiber, fiber, vitamins and minerals.

Despite the fact that pumpkin does not require special care, in Siberian conditions it can only be grown through seedlings, thereby accelerating ripening. We have been growing this vegetable for many years, and I want to tell you how we do it.

Pumpkin grows best in high beds and along the fence, where there is shelter from the winds and possible return frosts. For two years now we have been planting sunflowers next to the pumpkin; they serve as a kind of support for the pumpkin.

Pumpkin loves fertile soil. We have loam, so we prepare the soil for the pumpkin in advance, a year in advance, and change the place for it each time. Our bed consists of a compost heap, where during the spring and summer season we store weeded grass, food scraps, vegetable peelings, sawdust, straw, onion skins and eggshells.

We sprinkle each layer with peat soil from a neighboring swamp, sand, ash, and on top with garden soil. During the summer, we pour such a “sandwich” with fermented grass once, diluted kefir once, and infused chicken manure. Cover with black covering cloth. In winter we cover it with spruce branches and potato tops.

Pumpkin loves water, so we water it every day with warm water that has settled in a barrel at the root, trying not to get it on the leaf plate.

The sowing time is determined as follows: a month before planting in open ground, that is, approximately at the beginning of May. Pumpkin is a light-loving plant. Sometimes you can notice a slight tilt towards the greatest lighting, so we constantly turn the pot with the plant so that it develops evenly.

A week before planting in the ground, we take the pumpkin pots into the greenhouse for acclimatization. At night we cover with high-density acrylic.

To ensure a satisfying harvest, we take into account several factors when sowing: what purposes the pumpkin will be used (storage, juice, seeds), what varieties are suitable for our region, the number of pumpkins needed for the family. Our family fell in love with the Sweetie variety. These are small pumpkins with bright yellow flesh and a delicate melon aroma with a long shelf life.

We plant pumpkins in the garden bed in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Add 1 tbsp to the hole. a spoonful of superphosphate! a glass of ash and 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate. We mulch the top with sawdust and rotted grass.

After a week, the plants can be fed with nettle infusion, and two weeks later - with mullein infusion. Once the pumpkin gets stronger and grows, you can pester it. Next, feed before flowering and during fruit formation.