Water heating is not always a silent heating system. Sometimes you can hear strange sounds coming from the pipelines. Some of them are completely harmless and can be ignored, while others serve as a signal of serious problems. Let's try to figure out why the water is noisy in the heating pipes, and what can be done about it.
What types of noise can pipelines make?
The sounds emanating from heating system elements are legendary. Under certain circumstances, not only heating pipes make noise in the house, but also other pipelines. At the same time, the sound range of all sanitary systems is approximately the same. The most “musical” ones are metal pipes, but plastic ones can also “delight” with unusual melodies. A water heating system can make a wide variety of sounds:
- murmur;
- gurgling;
- rattling;
- knock;
- crack;
- clicks;
- whistling;
Specific sounds signal the presence of problems in the heating system, so it is necessary to quickly identify and eliminate the source of the noise, since its systematic exposure to a person leads to disorders of the nervous system, interferes with sleep and reduces performance.
Why is water noisy in heating pipes?
Noise in heating pipes is caused by the following reasons:
- air jams;
- high speed of coolant movement due to incorrectly selected pipeline diameter or a decrease in the internal lumen of the pipe due to overgrowing of its walls;
- coolant leakage in emergency areas or through poorly closed valves;
- scale peeled off from the pipe walls or debris that got into the circuit during installation;
- faulty or incorrectly installed valves;
- excessive pump power or improper installation;
- wear of control valves or thermostatic heads;
- cavitation - the formation of steam bubbles in the coolant in the area of a sharp increase in the diameter of the pipeline (the appearance of an area of low pressure) with their subsequent collapse, destroying the equipment;
- violations of installation technology (use, failure to observe the minimum distance between parallel sections of a metal pipeline during installation, installation of a filter or valve not in the direction of flow indicated on it, etc.).
Important! The central heating always turns on noisily. When the system is filling, you can hear the murmuring of the coolant, the heating of the circuit is accompanied by clicking sounds, and the air coming out of it is accompanied by a whistle. Maintenance of heating equipment before start-up can also be carried out using impact. Such noises usually disappear once the system is operational and are not a cause for concern.
If extraneous sounds appeared at the height of the heating season or did not disappear after the start-up took place, then this is a signal of the presence of malfunctions, and you should look for malfunctions not only in yourself or your neighbors in the riser, but also in the heating point or elevator unit - the source of the trouble may be far away outside the home, since sound waves travel well through pipes.
Methods for neutralizing noise
The source of noise often turns out to be in the locations of public utilities. The coolant pressure at the heating main entry point is the highest, so the slightest malfunction in it can immediately manifest itself in the form of strange sounds throughout the entire entrance. In a private house, the noisiest place is the furnace or heat generator room, where the boiler and its entire piping system are located.
Note: Aluminum and bimetallic radiators are especially sensitive to pressure changes. Thin metal transmits any vibrations through itself, like a megaphone. In such heating devices, the slightest technological noise acquires an amplified sound.
If the problem turns out to be a malfunction of collectively owned equipment, then you should not fix it yourself. Worn-out components can literally crumble at the slightest attempt to unwind them, and all the blame will be placed on the one who unauthorizedly interfered with the operation of the “perfectly debugged” system. It is better to send a complaint to the service organization and patiently wait for their representative to repair the faulty components.
A visual reminder with the coordinates of addressees if it is necessary to contact housing and communal services issues If you were able to diagnose problems within your own or a neighbor’s home, then you should begin to eliminate them as quickly as possible. In this case, any delay is fraught with aggravation of the situation and complication of repair work.
How to get rid of noise in the heating system
Each problem in the heating system creates a type of noise that is characteristic only of it, which is a clue for diagnosis. The list of measures taken depends on the sounds the heating pipes make.
Humming, howling
The loudest and most unpleasant type of noise. Pipes can start buzzing out of the blue and give rise to poltergeist stories. However, mysticism has nothing to do with it, and communication with spirits will not save you from noise in the pipes.
When a hum occurs, you need to look for a coolant leak. First of all, a thorough inspection of your home is carried out, then all neighboring apartments. If everything is dry, then the search continues in the basement. A cloud of steam, a puddle or a whistle will help you easily determine the place where the water is leaking. In apartment buildings, repairs will be carried out by the management company, in private houses - by the owner of the property. After inspecting the problem area, a decision is made on how to eliminate the malfunction - by repairing or replacing the unit; sometimes it is enough to simply tighten a poorly closed valve.
Another reason for the hum may be the use of pipes in the heating system with a diameter smaller than the calculated one. In this case, the problem area is determined by ear, and the required section of the pipeline is replaced with material with greater permeability. With the correct selection of pipes and high-quality performance, you will no longer have to listen to the pipes hum.
Distribution unit of a central heating system in the basement of an old apartment building Bubbling, crackling and clicking
Particles of debris, sludge or exfoliated scale, when moving through the pipes, hit the walls and rub against them, creating noise in the form of crackling or seething. A characteristic sound when clogged is also a clicking sound. To eliminate this type of noise, it is necessary to flush the system.
Foreign objects in the pipes will click until they come out. Therefore, all liquid is drained from the system through the drain valve. Using a hose, the old coolant with debris is directed into the sewer, the system is additionally washed with water (steel pipes are tapped on the outside with a wooden mallet to remove scale from the inside from the walls), after which the heating circuit is refilled.
Important! Before draining dirty water, it is better to dismantle the drain valve to allow large pieces of debris to come out and not clog the shut-off device.
Quite often, pipes crack and click due to a malfunction of the valve or its installation in the wrong direction of flow. The curved passage hole easily becomes clogged, and over time a plug may form in it, completely blocking the movement of the coolant. Partial blocking of the pipe lumen with debris creates noise when water passes through. If the valve is positioned the other way around, then liquid enters it not from the bottom side of the locking disc, but from above, which leads to destruction of the stem and separation of the valve. In this case, the movement of the coolant will also be accompanied by noise.
The most rational way out of the situation is to replace the valve, since it is already partially worn out in the wrong position and is therefore unpredictable after reinstallation. In the absence of a new unit, you can temporarily install the old one by replacing the sealing material of the threaded connections.
Advice: When choosing new shut-off and control valves, you need to keep in mind that ball (plug) valves are much more practical to use, can be installed in any direction and are not as sensitive to blockages as screw valves.
If you close the ball valve tightly, it can also become a source of noise. This is not a malfunction and can be corrected by opening it slightly or closing it completely. Valves with thermostatic heads can also make noise if the temperature set on them is close to the actual temperature in the room. In this case, the entrance to the radiator is not completely blocked, and the coolant passes through a small hole with a characteristic sound. To get rid of the noise, just turn the head towards the sprocket.
Murmuring, whistling
When air accumulates, you can hear the sound of water bubbling in the heating pipes - a very common phenomenon. Air can enter the system during repair work, or be sucked in through loose connections - an air lock, regardless of its origin, prevents the normal circulation of the coolant. Not only does the water gurgle annoyingly, but the heating devices do not heat up properly. If an air lock forms that completely blocks the lumen of the pipe, the radiators after the problem section of the pipeline will remain cold.
Air always accumulates at the highest points of the system, since it is lighter than water. This is where special valves or automatic air collectors are usually installed. Radiators located at the end of a horizontal branch must be equipped with a Mayevsky tap. In some types of systems, each heating device has a so-called “air vent”. The units of modern designs can be easily turned by hand; older ones will have to be controlled using an adjustable wrench or a screwdriver.
First of all, you need to try to bleed the air from the radiators of your apartment. The operation begins with the coldest device, if available. Often it is local air pockets that interfere with heating. If this does not give results, then you need to ask your neighbors on the top floor to find the appropriate tap and open it. In difficult situations, it is better to call a qualified plumber. An indicator of success - the release of air - is a characteristic whistle.
Advice: To avoid getting burned, you need to open the Mayevsky tap smoothly, being careful - the hot water in the system is under pressure. In addition, to collect water that will flow from the radiator, it is necessary to first prepare a container of sufficient volume with a wide neck.
Knocking, rattling
The cause of the knocking noise is usually a loose pipe or radiator bracket. The slightest vibration when the coolant passes through such a unit causes rattling, and if the supports are very loose, the radiator hits the fasteners. The system will stop making noise if the brackets are firmly fixed. To dampen vibration, you can install a heat-resistant rubber gasket between the device and the support.
Sometimes knocking noises can be caused by parallel or intersecting pipes being too close together. During temperature deformations, one pipeline begins to touch another, beats against it and becomes a source of noise. Sound insulation can save the situation if the available gap is enough to accommodate it. Otherwise, to eliminate the knocking, you will have to shift the problem area.
In some cases, knocking on heating pipes in apartment buildings is caused by dissatisfaction with neighbors. This type of noise is usually characterized by a lack of periodicity and occurs in the form of a reaction to certain provoking actions. It’s just that all residents have to “enjoy” the specific sounds. Technical measures will not help here; sound insulation can only partially save. Conflicts with neighbors can only be resolved through dialogue and diplomacy.
Expert advice on preventing unwanted sounds from occurring in the heating circuit
The likelihood of noise in heating pipes can be reduced by adhering to the following professional recommendations:
Important! In searching for the source of noise, a dry stick (the handle of a shovel) can help, one end of which is pressed tightly to the ear, and the other - alternately to the elements of the heating system. In the problem area, the noise will manifest itself louder and clearer.
Conclusion
This article addresses the question at the everyday level: what to do if heating pipes make noise? The first and most important step is to locate the source. Then you need to objectively assess your strengths and the possible consequences of attempting to eliminate the malfunction in order to decide whether to fix the problem immediately or postpone repair work until the end of the heating season.
Some heating problems can be fixed with your own hands, but in difficult cases you cannot do without specialists. In apartment buildings, it is better to entrust the issue to public utilities, without forgetting to control their actions. By responding to noise in pipes in a timely manner, you will preserve your health and nerves, and also protect your heating system from more serious damage.
Low-frequency hum emanating from heating risers is not always harmless. The gurgling of water in the pipes should definitely alert the user. Most often, humming, knocking and extraneous noise in the heating system indicate a malfunction or improper installation. You will have to put up with some of them (the water is just noisy, the pipes are slightly humming), others must be eliminated immediately in order to avoid more unpleasant consequences.
All types of sounds that water makes as it flows through pipes, risers and other elements of the heating system can be divided into three groups:
- Knocking of varying intensity and frequency;
- Sound effects of natural nature - murmur, hum, whistle and others;
- Industrial noises that are generated by mechanisms included in the heating system circuit.
What does knocking indicate?
H2_2This is the most dangerous noise, signaling incorrect installation or critically dangerous damage and system conditions. The knocking occurs, as a rule, in a boiler whose outlet pipe is not at its highest point.
There are places in the heating device where the water stagnates, as a result of which the temperature of the coolant rises until gas bubbles begin to release from it (the first stage of boiling). From time to time the gas bubble collapses, which causes noise and hum. The scientific name for this phenomenon is cavitation. Its strength can be such that pieces of metal adjacent to the gas bubble are torn out and cavities are formed, causing serious damage to the system.
As the boiler heats up, knocking or low-frequency noise may disappear on its own if the normal intensity of convection flow is established in the system. But if this does not happen, then boiling spreads to the entire coolant or most of its volume.
If the knocking noises in the boiler become more frequent and their strength increases, it is necessary to slightly open the tap of the supply system and add a little cold water. An increase in the temperature difference between the lower and upper points activates the convection movement of the coolant and eliminates the overheating zone in the system.
Noise sometimes occurs in the first radiators of a heating system built on a single pipe (lower distribution), in which the natural circulation of the coolant is weak. If it makes excessive noise and the knocking is very strong, then you will have to take a chance and open the valve to bleed the air. Increasing circulation will cool the radiator. Be careful not to get scalded by the boiling water.
Knocking in the boiler can occur even if it is installed correctly. The fact is that in winter the forces of frost heaving can change the position of the house structures, and with them the risers, so much that the outlet pipe drops. Therefore, when installing the heating device, deliberately skew it so that the outlet line is 5–10 mm higher than the opposite edge of the boiler plane.
Natural noise
The rumble of water in pipes and hum are associated with uneven flow of liquid. There are three reasons why the coolant makes noise in the pipes:
- Air that has entered the system through leaks in threaded connections or for other reasons;
- Joining of lines of different diameters, causing acceleration or deceleration of flow;
- Internal obstacles include poor-quality welds, corrosion, scale and dirt accumulated in radiators.
If the water makes a slight noise in the pipes, a hum is heard, then this is not as critical a situation as when knocking occurs. But something needs to be done immediately about the sudden noise. For example, remove air from the heating system, the accumulation of which will ultimately lead to a stop of thermal convection.
When eliminating air pockets, the temperature of the coolant should not exceed 40°, otherwise there is a risk of burns. To do this, you need to use special Mayevsky taps, which should be equipped with all radiators or one, but the top one in the group. In a single-pipe system, air begins to be expelled from the device, which is located at the lower end of the collection line (the last one from the boiler in the direction of the coolant).
You should not overload radiators with additional devices - meters, regulators, etc., which create additional resistance to flow. When the coolant is forced to overcome these obstacles, the pipes hum louder. At least once every three years, you need to descale the system by heating it with a coolant to which chemical reagents have been added, and then washing it. There is no need to empty the system for the summer, this accelerates corrosion processes in the riser and radiators.
Sometimes during heating, squeaks, crackling noises, and other noises occur in the heating pipes. This is due to their thermal deformation. The process, unfortunately, is inevitable, but it can be reduced if you use homogeneous materials. For example, you should not connect metal-plastic pipes with antediluvian cast-iron radiators. The linear expansion coefficient of these materials varies significantly.
If a circulation pump is included in the heating circuit, then during its operation the radiators may begin to make a high-pitched noise (whistle). This makes air noise as it escapes through microcracks in the seals of threaded connections. Do not use tow or oil paint to insulate connections. It is recommended to seal using FUM polymer tape or red (heat-resistant) silicone sealant.
Industrial noise
It is inevitable if a circulation pump operates in the system circuit. As a rule, the pump is the primary source of extraneous sounds. Centrifugal pumping devices create a highly turbulent flow that is noticeably noisy. The frequency spectrum of its vibrations is very wide, however, higher harmonics quickly die out and do not resonate with the pipes and risers of the system. This is directly related to the size of the latter: the larger the diameter of the risers, pipes and their length, the lower the hum the system will emit.
The danger of low-frequency hum is that this noise contains infrasound harmonics, inaudible to the human ear, which have a destructive effect on the nervous system and the body as a whole.
There are several ways to combat industrial noise:
- Provide a reliable foundation for the pump. Possible options are greater mass or shock absorbers.
- Connect pumping devices and risers using flexible pipes.
- Securely secure heating radiators to brackets.
- Avoid contact of vertical supply risers with building structures and install shock-absorbing pads between them.
- Install a membrane-type expansion tank upstream of the pump (against the flow of the coolant). This is especially true for models with a metal membrane.
There is no need to fight every noise manifestation of the heating system. This can turn into an endless pursuit of an elusive target. To some extent, noise is an indicator that it is functioning normally, even if the pipes hum a little, and water gurgles barely audibly in the riser.
Do not forget to regularly check threaded connections for coolant leaks, get rid of air and carry out preventive flushing of the system to remove scale and mechanical deposits. Carry out all repair work after it has completely cooled down.
Types of noise in a home heating system
Abnormal noises and sounds that appear in the heating system can turn living in a private house into absolute hell. By irritating the nervous system of residents, they make them aggressive and lead to scandals and troubles in the family. So what are these noises? How to diagnose them? How to get rid of them?
Read this article and you will understand how to do this and cure the heating system of your private home.
Types of noise in the heating system of a private house. Murmuring of water, extraneous sounds, gurgling, noise, hum, whistle, squeaks, trembling, vibration, knocking and knocking in the heating system.
When any water heating system in a private home operates, noise always occurs. But they are different:
- Operating noises from a normally functioning and functioning heating system. As a rule, they do not cause inconvenience for homeowners and are perceived without discomfort.
- Abnormal noises associated with breakdowns and malfunctions of the heating system. Abnormal noises can make living in your home impossible, stressful and uncomfortable.
Operating noise consists of the noise of a running boiler, the noise of the circulation pump and the noise of the coolant moving through pipes and other components of the heating system. The operating noise level should not exceed the standards and design noise level for this project. The design level of operating noise is calculated when designing the heating system.
If the calculated noise level turns out to be unacceptable, then the project replaces components and elements with more expensive and less noisy ones. The project also increases the diameter of the pipes and selects less noisy heating radiators. As for abnormal noises, they can appear at any stage of operation of the heating system.
Here is a list of just some types of abnormal noises:
- The sound of water in heating pipes.
- Air gurgling in the heating system.
- Low-frequency sounds - trembling, vibration, knocking, blows.
- Mid-frequency noises - hum, squeak, whistle.
- High frequency and broadband noise.
The initial constant presence of abnormal noise in a new heating system occurs due to incorrect design of the system, defective components and elements, and improper installation of the system. The periodic appearance of abnormal noises is most likely associated with incorrect operating dynamics of the heating system, lack of power, emergency operating modes, as well as with some types of heating system malfunctions.
As a rule, the periodic appearance of noise occurs due to errors in the design of the heating system. The sudden constant appearance of abnormal noises is associated only with a malfunction of the heating system.
Reasons for the appearance of coolant murmurs, extraneous noises and sounds during the operation of the heating system of a private house.
The reasons for the appearance of abnormal noise in the operation of the heating system can be errors in the design, errors during installation, or the appearance of malfunctions in the heating system.
1. The sound of water in the heating pipes. The reason for the gurgling water is air entering the heating system. There can be many reasons for air ingress and only a specialist can find them.
2. Air gurgling in the heating system. The causes of gurgling in the heating system may be boiling of the coolant due to incorrect operating mode of the heating, and, of course, air getting into it.
3. Low-frequency sounds - trembling, vibration, knocking, blows. The causes of trembling in the heating system are most often malfunctions leading to increased operating modes of a water heating system with forced circulation of coolant, pipe corrosion and blockages.
In general, heating systems with natural circulation of coolant are the quietest, and those with forced circulation are the noisiest. Tremors, vibrations, knocks and shocks most often appear in heating systems with forced circulation. Pressed under high pressure through the heating system, the coolant encounters many obstacles on its way, which produce all sorts of sounds, from glorious singing to hellish thunder. Vibrations most often appear as a result of resonant vibrations due to poor installation and fastening of pipes, although there may be other reasons. Knocks and impacts are clear signs of serious damage to components or foreign objects entering the heating system. They can also be caused by blockages.
4. Mid-frequency noise - hum, squeak, whistle. This type of sound indicates the appearance of powerful cavitation and fatal corrosion in the heating system. But it can also appear due to increased coolant pressure, and due to emergency operation of the boiler. Incorrect adjustment of the automatic temperature control system for operating modes can also lead to humming, squeaking and whistling.
5. High-frequency and broadband noise. The reasons for the appearance of high-frequency and broadband noise are fatal corrosion of pipes and radiators, as well as increased coolant movement caused by boiler equipment reaching extreme and emergency operating modes.
Searching and diagnosing faults in the heating system of a private home, causing the gurgling of water and extraneous sounds with noise.
The most time-consuming and expensive undertaking is the search for sources of abnormal noises, sounds, knocks, overtones, vibrations and shocks. In general, such troubles usually occur in heating systems installed by teams of hacks without any projects on the cheap. And as a result, the homeowner incurs a series of costs for troubleshooting and fixing them.
By the way, there are times when you have to completely change the heating system. Only experienced specialists can find the true causes of abnormal sounds. When water purrs in the heating system, a check is made for the presence of air and the reasons for its penetration are sought. These could be leaks and leaks.
When knocking sounds occur, faulty valves and the location of foreign objects in the heating system are looked for. At the same time, everything is checked, from the boiler to the very last flow. Bottlenecks, couplings, adapters, splitters, entry points, outlets of radiators, valve plates and taps can become clogged with foreign dirt and objects and cause a variety of sounds.
Diagnostics of vibrations is particularly difficult. Since it is impossible to identify fatal corrosion without disassembling the heating system. When water hammer occurs, the situation is even more complicated, since there can be an incredible variety of reasons for their occurrence. Causes are identified using the method of exclusion. How to do it:
- A list of possible faults is compiled that can cause the appearance of one or another type of abnormal sound.
- All reasons from this list are sequentially checked and excluded.
As a result of this analysis, problem areas, malfunctions, breakdowns and accidents of the heating system are identified, leading to the appearance of abnormal sounds, vibrations and noise.
Methods for eliminating the murmur of coolant and other extraneous noises and sounds that occur during operation of the heating system.
To eliminate the operating noise of a normally functioning and serviceable heating system, sound insulation of boiler rooms is used, or system elements are replaced with more expensive and less noisy ones. To eliminate abnormal sounds and noises in the heating system during its operation, different methods are used depending on the type of sounds. We will look at some elimination techniques to introduce the process of healing a system.
1. The murmuring of water in the pipes and the gurgling of air in the heating system. If water is bubbling and gurgling in the heating pipes, before deaerating the system, it is necessary to identify places through which air could enter the system and draw up a work plan to eliminate them. If air in the system is formed as a result of boiling water, then you need to carefully check the operation of all automatic temperature control devices and operating modes of both boiler equipment and other automatically controlled devices. Only after all this work can you begin to deaerate the heating system.
2. Low-frequency sounds - trembling, vibration, knocking, blows. Eliminating such complex sounds will require a lot of time and money, including replacing the entire heating system. The most important thing is to find the causative places. Then the heating system is stopped, water is drained from it, and components and elements are disassembled. Next, the heating system is cleaned of dirt and foreign objects. In case of corrosion and cavitation damage, components, pipes and other elements of the heating system are replaced with new ones.
3. Mid-frequency noise - hum, squeak, whistle. These noises are treated by replacing the nodes that produce these abnormal sounds with new ones.
4. High-frequency and broadband noise. These types of noise can appear when operating an incorrectly designed heating system, or using cheap components, blocks, elements and other equipment made in China or Ukraine, as well as counterfeits purchased on the market. It is treated by replacing the culprits of the abnormal sounds with new high-quality components from reliable manufacturers.
Services of the Termomig Organization for finding the causes, diagnosing and troubleshooting heating systems of private houses that cause the gurgling of water and other extraneous sounds.
Of course, contacting our Organization will completely remove all your troubles in finding the causes, diagnosing and eliminating malfunctions of the heating system that cause the gurgling of water and other extraneous sounds.
But the most important thing is that you will be guaranteed to be protected from unnecessary and useless spending of money. The best professionals with more than 20 years of experience work in our Organization and fix all sorts of malfunctions in any heating systems faster than anyone else.
In addition, we have a full range of very high-quality and reliable components from trusted manufacturers to replace faulty ones.
Loud, unpleasant sounds produced by various plumbing fixtures are not uncommon. The murmur in the pipes and toilet cistern, the humming faucet and the indecent snorting of the siphon - all this gets on your nerves and interferes with sleep. Next, you will learn about the reasons for the noisy behavior of various plumbing fixtures and how to deal with it.
The toilet cistern is noisy
The loudest sound a toilet makes is the sound of water flushing. You won't be able to get rid of it, but you can muffle it slightly by lowering the seat cover. But it is quite possible to make the sound of filling the tank almost inaudible. This problem arises with lateral supply, since the water jet in this case is directed vertically downwards. When falling, it creates a decent noise, which continues until the shut-off valve is activated. There are two solutions to this problem: run water through a thin hose so that it does not hit, but flows down it to the very bottom, or tie a strip of fabric to the shut-off valve, which also reaches the bottom of the tank.
It happens that you can constantly hear the splash of water flowing into the toilet bowl. The tank cannot be filled. This happens due to incorrectly adjusted fittings or due to incomplete closure of one of the valves. In the first case, you need to make an adjustment: lower the float, and, if necessary, raise the overflow tube. Please note that its edges must be at least two centimeters from the surface of the water.
If everything is adjusted correctly, but the tank still gradually overflows, it means that the shut-off valve gaskets are not seated tightly. Possible causes are wear or plaque formation. It is necessary to disassemble the fittings and wash everything thoroughly with soap. If that doesn't help, replace the gaskets.
Whistle in the gas water heater
Gas water heaters are characterized by the sounds of burning flames and flowing water, but sometimes they are mixed with a monotonous high-frequency whistle. Sometimes it can be so loud that it is extremely difficult to bear even for a short time. Both the gas path and the water path can whistle, so first you need to figure out where exactly the sound is coming from.
To do this, turn off the gas tap from which the column is powered and turn on the hot water. By the absence or resumption of the whistle, it will be possible to determine where to look for its cause. If everything is quiet, then the gas path should be considered responsible for the hellish serenade, and if the unpleasant sound is repeated, the water path should be considered responsible.
Most often, the cause of such a trill is a design defect in the valve, which is responsible for modulating the flame. The whistle in this case is observed only in one specific power range, when the ideal combination of valve clearance width and gas flow speed occurs. To get rid of the problem, just change the position of the regulator up or down. When the power decreases, the gas flow rate will become insufficient for sound to appear, and when it increases, the working clearance of the valve will be too wide.
Another possible cause is a blockage in the gas path. This usually happens due to a foreign object getting in there, for example, scale or a piece of winding. In this case, the whistle is usually observed over a wide power range. To determine in which area or unit the blockage occurred, the gas path will have to be disassembled, inspected and cleaned. For such work you need appropriate qualifications, so it is better to entrust it to the masters of the city gas company or a private company that has a license for this.
It happens that an unpleasant sound comes from the water tract. The reason is most likely the blockage again. In this case, a decrease in heater performance should be observed. In addition to a foreign object, this can also be caused by scale on the inner walls of the radiator. It begins to appear if the water temperature in the column regularly exceeds 60°.
It is often possible to get rid of a foreign object using reverse flow. To do this, you must first shut off the water and gas supply to the heater. Then unscrew the inlet line and let the water flow in the opposite direction. The easiest way to do this is with a bathroom faucet, setting the shower switch to neutral and opening both taps slightly.
To remove lime deposits from the column radiator, you will need a descaling agent. You can also use a solution of citric or acetic acid. Before starting work, it is better to remove the radiator, it will be more convenient. The product must be poured in gradually, adding more as the reaction subsides. After filling the radiator, the liquid is drained and the procedure is repeated 3-4 more times.
Malfunctions of plumbing fixtures often occur in residents' homes. The reasons are varied. This includes defective products, poor-quality installation of water appliances and, of course, temporary wear and tear of parts. both in the bathroom and in the kitchen. And this means one thing - it’s time to start repairing. You can entrust this work to a master, but if the work is not complicated, then doing it yourself will not be difficult.
Yesterday everything was fine, but today the hot water tap is humming? It's time to start repair work.
The work is not difficult and can be done by a home craftsman. There is no need for haste in this type of work. First you need to make sure which one is humming: cold water or hot? Each one is turned on one by one and it is found out in what position the hum begins.
It is necessary to find out whether pipes with hot or cold water are humming
Having established what device the hum is coming from, it’s time to familiarize yourself with the type of crane axle box. It is she who is responsible for shutting off the water.
It comes in two types:
- With rubber gasket.
- Ceramic.
It is easy to determine the type of shut-off valve for a novice plumber. If the water stops flowing when twisted half a turn, use a faucet with a rubber gasket.
Prepare the tool
Found a faulty device?
It's time to prepare your tools:
- screwdriver with replaceable tips;
- knife with a sharp blade;
- key - hexagon;
- adjustable wrench;
- fum - tape.
Repair of locking devices with rubber gasket
All work consists of several stages..
- Shut off the water supply to the apartment.
- The faucet axle box is unscrewed from the mixer.
For a complete repair, it is advisable to completely unscrew it.
Crane axle device
To do this, the tap must be disassembled.
- Remove the protective cap from the lamb.
- Use a screwdriver to unscrew the locking bolt.
- Using adjustable wrenches, unscrew the valve axle.
Assess the condition of the gasket.
If the rubber is still soft, then cut the edges along the contour with scissors at an angle of 45°. If the gasket is “stiff”, replace it with a new one. It is also advisable to trim the edges of the new gasket at the same angle.
Reassembly is done almost the same way. Fum tape (or tow) is wound onto the threaded connection of the tap and the part is screwed into place.
The water supply to the water pipes is opened and the operation of the tap is checked. If the water flows normally and there is no more noise, it means the job was completed successfully.
Repair of locking devices with ceramic elements.
Another type of faucet axle box - instead of a rubber gasket, a cermet locking mechanism is used. They break very rarely, since the principle of locking water is based on the perfect grinding of the locking surfaces inside. But if the faucet is still humming, what should you do?
In such devices, the silicone gasket between the ceramic washers fails.
Separating the gasket from the valve
Under normal conditions, it should press the cermet rings when the tap is open.
The repair is almost the same as with products with rubber seals:
- The water supply is cut off.
- The crane box is unscrewed.
- If you have a similar spare part on hand, all that remains is to replace it and assemble the mixer. If it is not there, then you need to go to the nearest plumbing store with the broken part. Sales consultants will help you choose the right part.
- The purchased part remains to be installed in place at home.
- Checking the operation of the crane.
We looked in detail at the reason why the bathroom faucet hums when you turn on the water and how to fix it.
By the way, experienced plumbing repairmen advise replacing faucets with rubber seals with ceramic ones.
Such elements are more convenient to use because:
- when closing/opening, you don’t need to make a lot of effort;
- the working stroke is very small;
- they are quite reliable and durable.
Cause for concern There may be a situation when the mixer does not hum, but when you open the water, it sounds. Often the reason lies in the cartridge.
To understand this, you need to check the hoses from the pipes to the mixer one by one. 
By opening cold and hot water alternately, the source of the noise is found.
You can try holding the water supply hose with your hand. The source of noise may be vibration of the hose under water pressure. By securing the hose in a stationary position, you can get rid of the source of the hum.
If the noise does not disappear, the reason is in the cartridge itself. Will require repair or complete replacement.
Why does the toilet tank make noise when filling with water?
The source of increased noise in the apartment may also be the toilet cistern. According to the experience of repairmen, this problem is easily solved.
The most common cause of excessive noise is the intake mechanism.
The toilet tank can make noise just like the pipes
As a rule, when assembling drain fittings, a tube is placed on the inlet valve, which at one end descends almost to the bottom of the tank. When the water in the tank begins to fill and the tube closes, the noise disappears.
The reasons are no longer important - either the tube fell off on its own, or they simply forgot to install it during assembly. The main thing now is to eliminate the noise of water when filling the tank.
If the tube falls off, you just need to put it back in place.
Why do the pipes hum when you turn on the tap?
Many residents of high-rise buildings are familiar with the unpleasant hum from water pipes. 
Why did this unpleasant sound effect appear and how to deal with it?
There are several options:
- The house has undergone a major renovation water supply systems, as a result of which the pipes are connected or installed “in haste”. The management company must eliminate all shortcomings. Pipes that are “dangling” must be secured. And those areas where pipes run close to each other, either reinstall or insulate each pipe using polyurethane foam. Such repairs will not look aesthetically pleasing or beautiful, but the noise will stop.
- Pipes vibrate due to excessive pressure in the water supply network. Appears when closing the locking devices. If the noise increases when the taps are closed, it means that complex repairs are required on the water supply route. It is impossible for the residents of the house to cope with this problem. Troubleshooting should be handled by the management organization.
- Very old pipes can also have the same effect.. It appears in houses of old construction, in which major repairs to replace the water supply system have not been carried out for a long time. The internal diameter of the pipes decreases under the influence of rust and salt deposits growing on the walls, at the same water pressure in the system. This causes buzzing and rattling. Replacing faulty metal sections of pipes with metal-plastic ones will help. This way you can eliminate the problem of excessive noise from the plumbing system.
- Faulty locking elements or plumbing in a specific apartment. The hum from water pipes can be transmitted from damaged taps and mixers. If replacing spare parts in a particular apartment does not help eliminate the noise, you need to look for the source of the rattling in each apartment, closing the main shut-off valves for each of the residents in turn.