How to make painting trestles. Do-it-yourself construction trestles: production and recommendations. Species diversity of building goats

Universal folding trestles significantly expand the capabilities of the home craftsman. The transformable device is convenient to store, quick to install, and can be manufactured within a few hours. It costs at least half as much as factory modifications and has a long service life.

Design and use cases

Unlike classic trestles, universal trestles are folding, which makes storage and transportation easier. The design of the carpentry and construction device is as follows:

legs with spacers, hingedly connected to each other
removable support bar
belt tie at the bottom

The device allows you to harvest firewood, cut long lumber and support scaffolding panels (you will need 2 pairs of trestles) by default. A wooden table top can be attached to the support crossbar to accommodate power tools (for example, a cross-cut machine, a drilling machine, a sharpening machine).

If you assemble a lightweight frame from boards or plywood, you can build a large-sized carpentry table-workbench from two trestles for assembling furniture.

Cutouts in the support strip allow you to work with tubular workpieces and press the lamellas of the joinery parts being glued together. On one side of the trestles you can attach a sheet of plywood, gypsum board, OSB for marking, straight or figured cut.

Do-it-yourself production budget

For trestles with a height of 0.8 m, the following dimensions are valid:

legs (4 pcs.) – 0.95 m
top crossbar – 0.9 m
spacers (3 pcs.) – 0.85 m, 0.77 m and 0.7 m

Therefore, to manufacture two sets of devices you will need lumber and fasteners in the following quantities:

board 95 x 45 mm – 5 pieces 2 m each
board 90 x 20 mm – 1 piece 2 m
board 90 x20 – 1 piece 3 m
furniture bolt M10 x 100 with nut – 4 pieces
M10 washers – 12 pieces
self-tapping screws 4 x 45 – 50 pieces (for wood)
belt – 2 pieces

Attention: The main problem when buying boards is choosing dry wood with stable geometry. The trestles do not have a rigid frame, so “propellers”, boards with a difference in thickness, or chips are not suitable.

An approximate estimate for the production of universal folding trestles is as follows:

belt – 140 rub. (2 pieces per pack)
bolts included – 75 RUR.
self-tapping screws – 30 rub.
board – 1000 rub.

You can meet the amount of 1.25 thousand rubles, that is, at least four times cheaper than when buying ready-made trestles.

Manufacturing technology

The general principle of carpentry work is the production of parts and final assembly from the resulting “constructor”. All elements can be treated with antiseptics, fire retardants and paints and varnishes, reducing consumption and efficiently treating mating and rubbing surfaces.

Cutting blanks

All parts for one side of the legs are marked separately:

from 2 m of board two elements are obtained
Marking with a protractor starts from the very edge
on the 45 mm side there is a line at 65 degrees
its continuation at the end (inch board) line at 80 degrees
cutting is carried out with a hacksaw with a fine tooth, since the cut occurs simultaneously in two planes

The second cut is parallel to the previous one, made at a distance of 0.95 m from it. It is easier to mark the second leg and saw off according to the template, which becomes the first part.

The cutting line of the upper support is straight (90 degrees), there are no problems here. All spacers are cut on both sides at an angle of 80 degrees, tapering upward. The lengths of the workpieces are different - 0.85 m, 0.77 m and 0.7 m. The cut is made in the same plane; there is no need to bevel it along the end. The result is a set of parts for one trestle.

The most difficult cutting operation is making cuts into which the removable upper support strip will fit. Seats are marked in the following way:

the legs are located on a flat area when unfolded for use (the lower supporting surfaces are on the same line, can be supported with a long board)
the cut is marked with a square set 5 mm from the edge of the upper bevel of the leg, with a ruler located at a right angle to it at a distance of 8 cm

Attention: In this case, 8 cm is the depth to which the support bar fits into the groove; with the indicated dimensions, it will be 15 cm above the legs, and not flush with them, which will avoid damage by accidental contact with the cutting tool.

The result should be a groove shown in the figure:

It is better to process the parts before assembly; after drilling the holes, it is enough to apply paint and varnish to the newly created surfaces to ensure the maximum service life of the device. Painting the legs after assembly is inconvenient, since access to individual sections of the boards that touch each other is limited. In addition to paint and varnish, you can use stains, wax, and oil compounds. Before this, all surfaces must be sanded.

Leg assembly and fitting

The performance of the device depends on the quality of the marking of the hole for the bolt. Therefore, preliminary fitting using technology is necessary:

the leg is placed on the table so that the cutout hangs over the tabletop (you can use a stool, chair)
the support bar (upper) is installed vertically in the groove
a second leg is added on top of the first (the bar should fit snugly into the cutouts in both parts)
the structure is temporarily tightened with a clamp

Then the following operations are performed:

Using a vertical square, the intersection of the legs is transferred to the side surface on both sides of the structure
the resulting points are connected by a line, which becomes the vertical axis of rotation
the longitudinal axis of the leg is marked with a square
at the intersection of these lines there will be a center for the hole of the M10 bolt, which is the hinge of the connection

Attention: The holes must be perpendicular to the plane of the boards, so a jig is required. They can serve as a cut in a block, pressed to the leg with a self-tapping screw or a clamp. If the hole is inclined, the legs will not be able to transform into the working position.

The legs are assembled in stages:

the bolt goes through one piece
two washers are put on it to facilitate the rotation of the wooden elements relative to each other
the second leg is put on the threaded part
the hinge joint is secured with a nut

The result is a set of two legs, into the cuts of which a support bar is easily inserted from above.

Fastening the spacers

The structure does not have the necessary spatial rigidity and collapses from minor lateral loads. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the tragus with spacers:

the legs are folded lengthwise and laid parallel to the floor
on external parts 15 cm from the bottom is marked
the longest spacer is applied (95 cm)
holes are drilled for self-tapping screws to prevent wood from splitting when tightened
fastening is carried out with one hardware on each side to ensure some mobility
the structure is turned over, marks are created at exactly the same height of 15 cm, only on the internal parts
the 77 cm spacer is attached similarly to the previous one with one self-tapping screw on each side

Then the last upper strut is attached:

universal trestles fold out into operating position
a support strip is installed in the cuts
distances of 20 cm are laid down from the grooves
the spacer is installed on top of these marks
attached with self-tapping screws in the same way as the previous parts

If necessary, adjustments are made; if all parts are positioned without play relative to each other, the second screws are screwed in on all spacers.

Lower tension strap

The support bar prevents the legs from folding inward. However, a home craftsman can accidentally move them outward, causing the structure to “corrode” and lose its rigidity. To do this, a belt tie is used to secure the opposite lower struts. It is installed using the following technology:

trestles fold out
the middle of the lower strut is marked
a through hole is drilled with a 10 mm drill (for an M10 bolt)
a hole is punched 40 cm from the belt carabiner into which the bolt is inserted

After that, it is enough to secure the bolt with the belt in one spacer with a nut, tighten the belt around the opposite spacer, and cut off the excess length. The same strap secures the support bar to the legs during transportation or storage when folded.

Thus, universal folding trestles can be made on your own with a minimum set of tools within a couple of hours. All parts are ready-made templates, which facilitates the further assembly of the required number of these transformable devices.

Gone are the days when building regulations prohibited the construction of tall buildings on summer cottages. The buildings are growing upward and it’s hard to call the two- or three-story mansions that have appeared on country estates in recent years as country houses. But no matter how new the house is and no matter what financial capabilities its owner has, a situation may still arise in which urgent repairs of some section of the building or roof are necessary. What to do if the house has three floors? Scaffolding will help, which is easy to make yourself, having at hand basic tools and simple material in the form of boards and bars, always set aside by a thrifty owner.

Purpose of scaffolding

Prefabricated frame structures, such as scaffolding, significantly simplify the procedure for performing construction, installation and finishing work outside and inside the building, reduce the risk of injury from a possible fall, and in modern construction they perform a truly irreplaceable function.

Almost all restoration work on civil and residential sites is carried out using scaffolding. You can compare scaffolding to a web that entangles a building from all sides, allowing builders and finishers to move freely along the entire outer surface of the structure, reaching the most remote points without additional equipment.

The process of installing scaffolding is technologically not a complicated procedure, especially if the scaffolding has been calculated in advance and professionally manufactured elements are used as components.

Metal scaffolding

The most durable scaffolding is made of metal. These are used in construction organizations that regularly perform work at heights. The principles of fastening are based on the use of so-called glasses (pieces of pipes thicker than the main structural elements into which these basic elements are inserted). Installation of such scaffolding takes a minimum of time, thereby reducing the cost of work. A more expensive option for metal scaffolding is aluminum, which is much lighter and does not corrode.

Plastic scaffolding

Due to the rapid appearance of polymers on the market, prototypes of plastic scaffolding are already being produced, which are no less durable than metal ones, but have a much longer service life. The sections are fastened together with special clamps.

Wooden scaffolding

Of course, the most common material for making summer scaffolding is wood.

However, the accessibility and simplicity of a wooden structure is compensated by its low reliability, therefore, before you start making scaffolding with your own hands, you need to clearly understand their purpose and the types of work that will be performed with their help and have scaffolding drawings at hand (at least schematically with the necessary calculations). Remember that wooden scaffolding is only suitable for simple finishing and painting work.

Scaffolding calculation

When manufacturing scaffolding, it is necessary to strictly follow all technological procedures; the safety of the work depends on this. One of the main elements of the installation process is the calculation of scaffolding for strength and stability.

When calculating, a measuring tool is used that measures the following parameters:

dimensions of all parts of the forest
strength of attachment to the wall of the house

Manufacturing of scaffolding

Before you make scaffolding yourself, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and tools. Let's consider the simplest option - attached scaffolding.

You will need a hacksaw, a hammer, nails, boards of various thicknesses and widths, bars of at least 50x50. First, a support frame is made, for which a thick beam (at least 100x50) is attached to the wall of the house at an angle to the ground, and at the junction with the wall an “envelope” is made from slats or narrow boards, as shown in the photo of scaffolding.

Depending on the width of the wall, two or more support posts with “envelopes” are installed. Boards are laid on the horizontal part of the “envelope” between the two posts (it is better to nail them with small nails). Climbing to the scaffolding is carried out using a wooden ladder.

Construction trestles

Construction trestles serve the same tasks as scaffolding, only their capabilities are somewhat limited, since they are made with only one platform, which is located on top of the frame structure. How to make construction trestles with your own hands is clearly shown in the presented video.

From this master class you will learn how you can independently make the now popular folding pair of trestles for a portable workshop.

The design is quite simple, made from inexpensive materials. For manufacturing, all the necessary drawings are presented, as well as a cutting blank in the Sketchup program.

At the end of the work the author also talks about that. how to make simple mounts for hanging sawhorses on the wall from leftover materials after cutting.

Materials and tools

deck 18 mm plywood;
door hinges;
Self-tapping screws;
Polypropylene rope

Drawings for manufacturing

Schematic drawing

Dimensions of trestles

height 811 mm;
width of the upper base 844 mm;
minimum width (legs) 711 mm.

Goat drawings in Sketchup

In case you want to change the design and dimensions at your discretion, you can download the file for editing in SketchUp

Download file:
(downloads: 403).zip

Making goats

Cutting parts

We mark out parts for cutting plywood.

Scheme for marking plywood for cutting.

Explanations for color detailing

Green: tops 844*90 mm - (2 pcs needed);
Yellow: bottom support cross member 711 x 90 mm (originally intended 711 x 180 mm);
Orange: top crossbars 844 x 90 mm (originally intended 844 x 180 mm);
Blue: legs. 844 *90 mm - 8 pieces;
Pink: parts for making wall mounts;
White: waste.

We cut the workpieces on a sawing machine, a circular saw or other devices.

Sidewall assembly

To begin with, a piece of plywood 80 x 200 mm was cut out; it acts as a marking template when making joints of parts.

At this stage the task is to connect the support legs to the upper and lower crossbars.
When installing the top crossbar, it is recommended to attach hinges so that in the future the self-tapping screws for fastening the hinges do not fall on the screws for fastening the plywood blanks.

We drill the fastening points of the self-tapping screws with a drill of a smaller diameter, and countersink the holes in order to hide the heads of the self-tapping screws in the future.
To connect the parts, PVA wood glue was also used; a small amount of glue was applied to the joint, the workpiece was applied and tightened with self-tapping screws.

Side connection

After the sidewalls have been made, you can fasten them together using furniture hinges. thereby producing a folding and unfolding mechanism.

Then we screw the upper support platform to the end of one of the sidewalls.
Both are not necessary, otherwise the opening and closing mechanism will not work.

Making an opening limiter

For safety when working on sawhorses, when they are opened by more than 20 degrees, an opening limiter was invented.
It is made of polypropylene rope, because... This material is inelastic, durable and inexpensive.
To make a limiter, we drill holes in each leg in the area of the lower support, and thread a polypropylene rope through one leg and then into the second leg. We tighten the knot on the rope and melt it using a regular lighter.

Checking the goats

To dispel doubts about the strength of this design, tests were carried out; for this, three of us stood on the sawhorses and jumped very well.

We were convinced of the reliability of the design and dispelled doubts.

Making fastenings for trestles on the wall

Also, for convenient storage of paired sawhorses, simple wall mounts were invented.

for this purpose they were cut out of plywood

2 blanks 206 x 50 mm;
2 blanks 188 x 50;
2 triangles with legs of 188 mm each.

The overall dimensions of the workpieces are also given above on the parts cutting plan.

To tighten the blanks, black wood screws 50 mm long were used.

When building, repairing and maintaining a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at height. Not everything can be done with the help of an extension ladder, and it’s not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.

Homemade wooden scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often it is made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is a saw, nails/screws, a hammer/screwdriver/screwdriver. The set of tools is simple, which any owner can find, and if there is something missing, it doesn’t require a lot of money to purchase. Metal is more difficult in this regard. It requires at least some handling skills, the presence of a welding machine and at least some idea of how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made from wood.

What to make from

Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short period of time. But for their manufacture it is necessary to use construction wood of good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some craftsmen advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the strength of the board.

But rarely anyone has spruce boards in stock, but pine is usually enough. You can also make scaffolding from pine boards, but each of them must be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, stack two columns (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. Place the board on the posts, stand in the middle and jump on it a couple of times. If there are weak spots, the board will break or crack. Withstood - you can use it.

The thickness of the board must be discussed specifically, referring to the design of the scaffolding, the distances between the posts and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that 40 mm or 50 mm thick boards are most often used for racks and flooring, and 25-30 mm for jibs. Such a board can be used in detailed construction work, if it is possible not to damage it during dismantling of the scaffolding.

Nails or screws

The debate about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better always goes on, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at heights, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view, nails are better. They are made of soft metal and when loaded, they bend but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, but it is brittle and breaks when exposed to shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding - there have been cases when they fell apart. But we are talking about “black” screws. If they are also anodized - yellowish-green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of the scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not liked due to the fact that it is impossible to disassemble the joint quickly and without losses - most often the wood is damaged.

When making scaffolding yourself, you can do this: initially assemble everything using anodized screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each connection. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, scraps of thin boards can be placed under the nails; for a long span, whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.

Designs and their features

For different types of work, scaffolding and scaffolding of different designs are used. For work with lightweight materials, too much load-bearing capacity is not needed. In such cases, attached scaffolds or envelope scaffolds are made.

For work on gables or when finishing the exterior of a low one-story house, construction trestles are used, on the crossbeams of which the flooring is laid.

For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.

As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Next we will talk in more detail about each of these structures.

Attached scaffolding

They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply leaned against it. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter “L”, only turned in different directions.

The picture on the right shows a simple and reliable scaffolding design. Their only drawback is that they are not height adjustable. They are convenient if you need, for example, to hem roof overhangs, install or clean gutters, or all those jobs that have a slight variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (timber). It is convenient to roll or lift logs along the edges of the stops.

They are reliable - they can withstand an 11-meter log and three people Construction scaffolding - a simple design

In the picture on the left there is an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. It is attractive because it requires a minimum of building materials; they can be assembled/disassembled/moved in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting them to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - it is convenient to use it to lift the scaffolding to a given height. The top crossbar is made 80-100 cm long, and flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.

When making corners, the joint must be positioned so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase the reliability of this unit, you can use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.

Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the façade allows, they are nailed down; if not, they are made use of only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from timber, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, pipes of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or cross-section (for a profiled pipe at least 50*40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, and additionally secured by driving in wedges.

To eliminate the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs, you can use an unedged board, if you have one, but of sufficient thickness and width.

If there is a need to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed longer than 6 meters), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, relieving part of the load.

Now a little about the flooring of these attached scaffolds. It is made from a wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is advisable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is extremely desirable.

Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos

The options described above are good if the work does not involve heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their design is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.

For their construction, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They should be made based on the fact that the minimum more or less comfortable width of the flooring is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability the racks can be made tapering at the top.

The stands are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for the flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding becomes.

To prevent scaffolding from falling, they are supported by boards/beams, one end of which is nailed to the posts (with nails), the other is buried in the ground

The cross beams prevent the scaffold from folding sideways, but there is still the possibility that the unsecured scaffold could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffolding is 2.5-3 meters, this need not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.

If work will be carried out at high altitudes, it is advisable to install railings. They can be made from not very thick boards, but there should be no knots or cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights to feel more confident at the top.

Standard molding is enough to reach the floor level of the second floor - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old, but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - whatever is available on the farm

Construction trestles

There is also a way to make lightweight mobile scaffolding - build identical construction trestles, filling the crossbars with a certain pitch, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring boards.

This type of scaffolding is good, for example, when covering a house with siding. The sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix to the wall. Therefore, this option is the best for such a case.

Construction trestles - options

Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilting. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone or building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the cheapest type of building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners of wooden houses still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so scaffolding is needed every two to three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult.
Clamps. For racks and crossbars, round pipes are used, which are fastened together using specially designed clamps. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).
Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling
Frame. Frames of the same size are welded from a round or rectangular pipe. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels for easier movement on a flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter, welded to the frame posts on one side. With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash.
Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs
Wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes.

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

Almost every builder who was faced with the issue of constructing a building for any purpose wondered how to make construction trestles with his own hands. Without them, it will be quite difficult to carry out the mentioned manipulations. The structure can be rented, but it is quite expensive, which is especially true in the case that involves construction over a long period of time.

Preparation for work

If you will make construction trestles with your own hands, then you must first prepare all the materials and tools. Among the first is a pipe, the diameter of which can be 1.5 or 2 inches. The final parameter depends on the expected loads. You will need a pipe with a diameter of 1 and 1.5 inches, the figure will depend on the parameter of the pipe, which was described above. From the blanks it is necessary to make horizontal jumpers that will connect the racks. Another pipe with a diameter of 0.5 inches will be needed to make the hooks into which horizontally oriented jumpers are installed. The pins will be a round rod, the diameter of which is 14 millimeters. This workpiece must be welded onto a horizontal jumper on both sides.

If you are making construction trestles with your own hands, then in addition to the elements described above, you will need an adjustment mechanism that will help level out surface unevenness. To form it you need to purchase four bolts and nuts. Bolts should be selected according to diameter, the minimum of which should be 20 millimeters. A nut should be welded into the lower part of the racks into which the screw is installed.

Manufacturing technology

When making construction trestles with your own hands, it is necessary to begin work on forming the pin structure from the racks. In this case, everything is quite simple; at the bottom of these elements you need to weld nuts for the bolts. A pipe is welded into the upper part. It will need to be used to install the section of the next tier. On the sides of the pipe, top and bottom, at a distance of 200 millimeters from the edges, you need to weld tubes, the length of which is 100 millimeters. There should be four of them at the top and bottom. The result should be a cross, which will allow, by connecting the racks with jumpers, to form a rectangular structure. The racks of the upper tiers will differ from similar elements below in the absence of nuts. In this case, the pipe should remain free.

If you are making scaffolding, at the next stage you will need to weld pins along the edges of the horizontal long and short jumpers, then bending them at a right angle. It is important to equip the structure with a rack, which must have components made of thick boards. Their width should be equivalent to 0.5 meters. During the assembly process, the rack is laid on horizontally located short lintels.

Carrying out the assembly

When making scaffolding from metal, the next stage will require assembly. To do this, the master is recommended to enlist the help of another person. One of them will have to hold two posts, while the other will have to insert jumpers into them. With the help of short elements you will be able to assemble two sidewalls. Each of the craftsmen, holding one side, begins to insert long jumpers. Once these blanks are in place, you can level everything by laying ladders on them. Before making construction trestles, you should familiarize yourself with the technology. At the next stage, it assumes the possibility of installing subsequent tiers, and you need to use the method described above.

Features of manufacturing wooden scaffolding

If you decide to make trestles from wood, then the step between the racks can be equal to the limit of 2 to 2.5 meters. As for the width of the flooring, it should be equivalent to one meter. You should not make the structure too high; the maximum height limit is 6 meters. To carry out the work, it is necessary to prepare boards 50 millimeters thick. As for their width, this figure should not appear less than 100 millimeters. You can replace such blanks with a square beam of 10 cm. The racks and stops can be based on round timber. Spacers and barriers are typically made from boards that are 30 millimeters or more thick.

Conclusion

If you want to make folding construction trestles, which were discussed above, then they can be used for many years. This cannot be said about wooden structures, which require treatment with certain substances that provide the material with special qualities. Wood lasts less and is not as stable in the finished structure. Among other things, wooden wheels must be installed on special scaffolds that prevent interaction of lumber with the ground. A drawing of construction trestles will allow you to carry out the work without errors. You can borrow it from the article or draw it yourself, depending on the dimensions of the future building. After all, how convenient it will be to carry out construction work will depend on this.